Especially during the Christmas holidays, princes surge through the roof in many places across Asia. We’re not willing to spend thousands of Dollars in a place that is then swamped by tourists, so if you’re looking for a tropical paradise, that’s still rather unknown and where you actually get your money’s worth, then this island off the coast of Aceh is the perfect spot.

Casa Nemo is definitely the best place to stay at on the island. Not only because the resort itself is amazing (review coming up), but also because the beach here is the nicest one on the island. And now I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

You’ll find various hotels across Pulau Weh, but the largest cluster is in the village of Iboih near the best dive sites. It’s a beautiful place to stay at, but also the most crowded and although the water is crystal clear, the stunning beaches can be found somewhere else.

The crystal clear turquoise water is just one of the highlights of Pulau Weh.

The beach right in front of Casa Nemo on Pulau Weh was one of the most beautiful ones we’ve been to.

White sand, pristine waters, palm treed and no one around is what made Pulau Weh the perfect getaway spot for us.

Pulau Weh is a tropical island in the North of Sumatra.

The beach in front of Casa Nemo is the nicest on on Pulau Weh.

Welcome to paradise.

Off To Ambon With A Rather Unconventional Mode Of Transport These Days.

On our journeys we’re never too keen to meet (lots of) fellow travellers, so the Maluku Islands were just the right destination for us. Thanks to AirAsia, destinations across Southeast Asia are pretty easy to reach. Yet we wanted more than just your average travelling day. From Bangkok, AirAsia brought us to Surabaya and from here the real adventure to Ambon, the capital of the Maluku islands, began. For many years we again wanted to travel across the Indonesian islands by Pelni Ship and this was the perfect trip to do just that! Flying across Indonesia as become easy but back in 1998, when we visited Indonesia for the first time, things were a bit different and the Pelni Ship was pretty much the only way to reach unknown places. So this journey would be something special and would bring us back to a time when travelling actually required lots time.

As the KM Dobonsolo made it’s way from Surabaya via Makassar (known as Ujung Pandang back in the days) and Bau-Bau, Ambon came nearer. From Ambon, the ship would continue to Sorong all the way to Jayapura, the border town between West Papua and Papua New Guinea, from where it makes its way back to Surabaya.

Maluku Islands: The KM Dobonsolo at Ambon harbour.

Maluku Islands: Travelling by Pelni ship is still a rather cheap way to travel around Indonesia, especially if you have lots of goods with you.

Maluku Islands: Flights across Indonesia have become so cheap and Pelni ships are often considered unsanitary, therefore tourists prefer the easy way of travelling (plus of course it takes more time).

Maluku Islands: The transportation of cargo is the main source of income for Pelni.

Maluku Islands: Merchants and families with lots of luggage are the main passengers abord a Pelni ship.

Maluku Islands: Just your average scene abord a Pelni ship in Indonesia.

Maluku Islands: Welcome To This Beautiful Archipelago Within The Banda Sea. Welcome To Ambon.

With a few hours delay, the KM Dobonsolo arrived in Ambon at 2 am. While getting off, some officials asked for a “Surat Jalan“- meaning a travel permit for the Maluku Islands, but this is no longer required and we knew that. They tried anyway for a bit of pocket money. After all, we were an easy target since we were the only tourists disembarking (and on the entire ship as a matter of fact). There was not much going on that time of the day and even the Rickshaw pullers were sleeping. We started walking out of the harbour and turned left on the first corner, where a hotel sign seemed inviting. Le Green Suites looked good, but – unbelievably – was fully booked. The night shift manager told us about their second hotel with available rooms and woke one of the sleeping Rickshaw pullers and within 15 minutes we were in the hotel Le Green Suites 2 – with nice rooms and Wifi throughout the property.

In the morning we really didn’t have any plans, so we started walking as we usually do, to get a first impression of Ambon. Our way lead us through the main street, passing a huge Mosque before strolling down to the beach where the markets are scattered along. Morning is always market time and it was very (very!) busy. We could hardly pass through the crowds and a sudden downpour didn’t make it easier. It was rainy season after all and mother nature makes sure you know why it’s called that. We escaped to a restaurant, where delicious Indonesian food was served. At the nearby bus station we enquired our options for continuing north. From Ambon there are Bemos in all directions and we decided heading to Pantai Liang, where the local slow ferry to Pulau Seram leaves at 11 am.

Maluku Island Hopping – Pulau Seram To Pulau Saparua.

Pantai Liang itself is a little village with stunning beaches and it would have been nice to spend a few days here, but we went with the ferry to Waipirit on Seram island. From there we continued by Bemo to Masohi, which would take us a couple of hours. It was already late in the afternoon and one of the passengers in our Bemo suggested the “New Kelemuku Hotel”. We spent a couple of days here, but were longing for some serious beach action. So we continued up north to the village of Sawai. This place not only feels very remote, but it actually is very far out of the way. Tourists are rarely seen due to the difficulty of getting there, plus crocks are nothing uncommon. As beautiful and tranquil at Sawai is, you won’t find white sand beaches.

Maluku Islands: If you’re visiting Indonesia during the rainy season, you’ll have to face downpours like this quite often. Sometimes it rains for days, sometimes the rain stops just as fast as it came. Here we were at Lisar Bahari Resort in Sawai on Seram island and it was actually a mystical atmosphere being above the water with this heavy storm hitting us.

Maluku Islands: As seen here, Sawai village is located far away from civilisation and therefore not visited by tourists often.

Maluku Islands: Lisar Bahari Resort in Sawai is definitely the place to stay at. You might not have sand beaches here, but you can jump into the crystal clear water straight from your room, which is not too bad if you ask me.

For a classic beach paradise, we would have to travel further on. Saparua island would be our next destination and this meant finding a boat that would bring us there. One thing is for sure, travelling around the Maluku islands is definitely something that requires (a lot of) time and patience. If you have both, you’ll be rewarded with memories that will last a lifetime. As we hoped, Saparua was the right spot to spend more than just a couple of days.

Maluku Islands: Puntih Lessi Indah Homestay on Saparua is the best place to stay at for some serious beach action.

Maluku Islands: Saparua offers the best beaches with crystal clear water with pretty much no one around.

Maluku Islands: Saparua beach paradise.

Maluku Islands: getting around by boat is unsurprisingly the best way to get around the islands.

Maluku Islands: From Haria, the main town on Saparua island, you’ll pretty much get anywhere on the island.

As our journey slowly came to an end, we decided to return to Ambon a bit early, to check out the Southeastern part of the island. Though you also won’t find sand beaches here, Ambon island should not be underestimated because it’s still blissful, beautiful, quite, simple and peaceful.

Maluku Islands: Fishing is the main source of income here on the islands.

Maluku Islands: Fishermen along the jetty can be seen pretty much everywhere along the islands.

Maluku Islands: Ambon might not be your typical beach paradise, but the islands offers stunning landscape scenes, beautiful markets and crystal clear waters.

Maluku Islands: The way down south on Ambon islands lead us through several beautiful palm tree alleys.

Maluku Islands: Tourists are a rare sight in Ambon, especially with the kind of camera gear we use, so these boys immediately started posing for us.

Maluku Islands: Collin Beach Hotel on Ambon islands was a beautiful places to stay at.

Resumé After Three Weeks On The Maluku Islands.

The lack of development and commercialisation on the Maluku islands is bound to not last and this is what gives when their charm. When coming here, don’t expect infrastructure that you might find elsewhere. These islands have not only been off the radar for a while, but are a truly forgotten paradise in Indonesia.

I actually found the place by luck, I didn’t ask anyone for directions, I just drove my car up and down the peninsula of Nouadhibou. I wanted to get an overview of one of the most dilapidated cities I had ever seen. This is where Iron Ore Train ends, one of the longest trains in the world, which makes Nouadhibou the most important area in poor Mauritania.

When A White Western Woman Enters The Office Of The Mauritanian Railway Authorities.

So here I was, walking into the shed of the Mauritanian Railway Authorities to enquire about the possibility to transport my car and myself to Choum, approximately 500 km east of Nouadhibou. The deal was done in the blink of an eye. With one place still available, I could put my car on the train. I only had to decide immediately, since the train was about to leave. I quickly checked my water and food supply, which would last for some days and gave it a go. 120 Euros for the car plus myself was a fair price and within the next couple of minutes, my car was loaded and tied to a platform for vehicles. My ticket said no passengers in the car, but nobody obliged when I asked if I could spend the journey in or on the car. I started making arrangements for the coming 30 hours: water, food, snacks were all at hand, towel, toothbrush and toilet paper on the dashboard, cameras and mobile phone as well within easy reach. Check, check, double check.

It took hours of turning switches, pulling the wagons and platforms up and down the tracks, back and forth to have them all in right position ready for the long journey East. Finally, around 8pm, after seven hours of waiting (talk about an immediate decision making), everything was set and the train took off honking repeatedly, taking the endless semicircle track out of Nouadhibou.

A Long, Rocking Night, The Most Beautiful Sunrise And A Frustrating Awakening.

Even with 40° Celsius during daytime, temperatures drop fast and I was happy that I had blankets and a sleeping bag nearby. Lying outstretched in the back of my station wagon, the night was almost comfortable… well not really, but better than expected. Nights in the desert are cold and pitch-black. I knew this from my trips across the Sahara Desert in the 70s & 80s and so I wasn’t able to see anything when the train stopped at night. I just heard voices somewhere in the distance. The position of my platform was near the end of the train, so I was not bothered by anyone during the night.

Morning arrived and I watched a beautiful sunrise while the train tugged leisurely into Choum. The wind had covered everything with layers of sand mixed with dust of iron ore from the wagons. Choum was actually the place where I had planned to get off, but I quickly realised that there was no loading off point for cars. “Sorry Madam, next stop for unloading cars is Zouérat” I was told, though in the guys in Nouadhibou had told me otherwise. Unloading cars in Choum was only recently stopped, so there was no chance for me to get off here. This was a bit upsetting, because it would put me approximately 200 km in the wrong direction, but I couldn’t do anything about it. I sat back down on top of my car and looked into the Mauritanian desert.

The toilet situation was a bit of a hassle. It was a new experience for sure. Hanging out of the car, hanging on to the platform needed concentration, one wrong move and you could fall off. I got the hang of it after a couple of times.

From Hero To Zero.

Another few hours further, with lots of stops in between, the train finally pulled into Zouérat. Again, the turning of switches, pulling and pushing of wagons took two hours until my platform finally came to a halt somewhere in the middle of nowhere. All I could see was how the Diesel locomotive pulled away.

Close by, though lightyears away, I could see the unloading facility for cars. Another platform was already loaded for the trip back to Nouadhibou, while my car was just a stone throw away, without a chance of getting off. This was very annoying and put my patience to the test. I asked several officers and workers when my car would be unloaded and I got the same answer every time “In a while Madam”. In Africa, “in a while” can mean one hour, five hours, 12 hours or more than 24 hours. Time runs slow here. So, after waiting another three hours in the soaring heat, with someone occasionally walking by, noticing my impatience yet not doing anything, my nerves went rock bottom. I stepped down from platform and walked along the railway tracks up to the station office and demanded to speak to the station master.

Mauritanians are generally very polite people but are definitely not used to talking to Western (female) tourists. The country is dominated by males, especially in this business. Politeness is very helpful and I demanded politely to see the station master. It took a while until one of the men started to move to show me the way to his office. After a couple of minutes, this guy came out of his office with some other officers in tow, and was frankly quite irritated to see a Western woman demanding to speak to him. I explained my situation and he and the others didn’t seem to be bothered at all and said that my car would be unloaded in a while. Then it was over, my nerves collapsed and I started crying.

My breakdown changed the entire situation. The officers stared at me and my crying, not sure whether to be astonished or shocked and immediately started talking in their local language. After a minute of discussion, the station master said I should stop crying, they will immediately start the Diesel locomotive and will unload my car within 10 minutes.

What more can I say? The station master guided me to his car, drove me back to my car and presented me with a big box of water bottles. During my breakdown, I might have also mentioned that I was running out of water, which I hoped would increase the unloading process, and he must have really felt sorry for me. It didn’t take long and my platform was towed up and down the tracks to bring me to the unloading section. The car was unlocked from the platform, I drove down and followed the station masters car until I was on the right road back to Choum where I actually had planned to get off.

This evening I stopped near a military checkpoint along the road and asked for permission to sleep nearby, since there was no hotel to be found anywhere. I set up my tent and fell asleep immediately.

The Iron Ore Train fills its 2.5 km of wagons (which is the second longest on earth) with the iron ore and then heads back to the coastal city of Nouadhibou.

The view off the coast of Mauritania’s Bay of Nouadhibou used to be spotted with rusting hulks in every direction. Today, this Ship Breaking Yard is almost gone, due to an injection of capital from the Chinese.

The Mauritanian Railways opened in 1963. It consists of a single, 704 km railway line linking the iron mining centre of Zouérat with the port of Nouadhibou.

Two or three trains make a daily departure to pick up iron ore from a mine in Eastern Mauritania.

Uploading my car onto the Iron Ore Train in Nouadhibou was already an adventure itself.

While the Iron Ore Train snakes its way through Mauritania, you’ll come across wrecks from all sorts of vehicles – here, old Diesel locomotives that were once in use have been parked.

Wrecks are a normal sight when riding through Mauritania on the Iron Ore Train.

One thing is for sure: the sunset and sunrise while on the Iron Ore Train in Mauritania were some of the most beautiful ones I have ever encountered.

Sitting on top of the Iron Ore Train, while looking at nothing around you but the Mauritanian desert, is an experience of a lifetime.

The bulk cargo train travels from the Sahara desert to the coast through dry nowhere to transport valuable minerals across Mauritania.

The Mauritania Railway serves not only as the sole connection between remote locations and the country’s only major shipping port, Nouadhibou, but as free transport for locals seeking to travel from isolated communities to the coast.

The Sahara desert lived up to its nickname, ‘the White Man’s Grave’, as temperatures during the day sore to a blistering 50° Celsius.

The Iron Ore Train is up to 2.5 kilometres long, making it one of the longest and heaviest in the world. It normally consist of 3 or 4 diesel-electric EMD locomotives, around 200 cars each carrying up to 84 tons of iron ore, and 2-3 service cars. The total traffic averages is 16.6 million tons per year.

Nouadhibou is the second largest city in Mauritania and serves as a major commercial centre and is the country’s economic capital, due to being the final stop of the Iron Ore Train.

We were yet again on a road trip through Morocco, this time our journey would take us all the way to Mauritania, but before, we wanted to explore the northern parts a bit more. Moulay Idriss made its way onto our map, because we wanted to see for ourselves, what made this city so holy.

We arrived in Tangier with the ferry from Geneva and had already passed beautiful Chefchaouen. Moulay Idriss would be our next destination before continuing to Fez. We heard that it was considered an alternative to the Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca by many Moroccans. It was here that Moulay Idriss I, the great-great-great grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, arrived in 789, bringing with him the religion of Islam, and starting a new dynasty. In addition to founding the town named after him, he also initiated construction of Fez, continued later by his son, Moulay Idriss II.

Given its picturesque setting, colourful streets, historic core and Moroccan importance, it’s a mystery why not more tourists visit. It’s lack of popularity is a good thing though, because you can often have the place all to yourself. And it’s safe to say that the city will surprise you with it’s beauty and calm atmosphere.

The colourful streets of Moulay Idriss seem like another Chefchaouen, but instead of blue, cyan is the main colour in use here.

For some (Western) visitors, Moulay Idriss may still be too “dirty” or “undeveloped”, yet it is exactly that, that makes it authentic and gives it its charm.

Moulay Idriss was off limit to non-Muslims after 3pm until 2005. This was because of the town’s holiness: it’s a pilgrimage site, the burial place of Moulay Idriss I. In 2005, Muhammed VI, the current king of Morocco, issued a decree to open the town to non-Muslim visitors as part of his plan of Western-oriented reform.

The sheer endless streets of Moulay Idriss reminded us of colourful Chefchaouen, but also a little bit of the Medina of Marrakech.

Donkeys can be seen everywhere in Moulay Idriss. They’re used to transport everything from people, shopping, luggage, beds, fridges, tables due to the hilly nature of the town.

In the medina quarter of Moulay Idriss you will find many colourful streets that are the perfect photo spot.

Due to Mouy Idriss’ location high above, the views are absolutely spectacular.

One reason the Romans chose Moulay Idriss was for its potential for making olive oil, which is today the town’s primary product.

Moulay Idriss is reachable by just a pair of roads and spreads across two foothills of Mount Zerhoun, at the base of the Atlas Mountains.

The Mosque and Mausoleum in Moulay Idriss.

The archaeological Site of Volubilis is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Volubilis is a partly excavated Roman city, commonly considered as the ancient capital of the Roman-Berber kingdom of Mauretania.

While the streets in the Medinas of Marrakech, Chefchaouen or Fes are invigorating, they can also be exhausting. Moulay Idriss is the perfect spot to get away from the bustling city life, while still being in a city.

There are two kinds of people – those who’ll go to a market to buy fish and those who won’t. Markets (especially fish markets) can be stinky, and many of us would rather go to the supermarket. We love markets not only because of the great photo opportunities, but because this where the real deal happens. Sassoon Docks is one of the largest fish markets in the city and for us, it was just the right spot to go to. Turns out that the Sassoon Docks is also one of the oldest docks in Mumbai (142 years), and one of the few docks in the city open to the public.

Where Modern And Traditional Lives Cross.

The entrance looks like the gateway of a fortress, but we knew we were at the right spot when the salty whiff of the ocean and the scent of fish greeted us from afar. More and more people shoving large boxes of fish crossed our path and we knew that we were getting closer. What we didn’t know then is that the Sassoon Docks just recently got a funky street-art turnover called Sassoon Dock Art Project as part of the St+art Mumbai 2017 Urban Art Festival. Despite its historical value and with Mumbai’s try to escape its fishy roots, this place has rather been avoided by Mumbaikars. Like the docks, the memory of Mumbai’s Koli past is all but wiped clear.

The Sassoon Dog is hard to miss when walking along the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai.

Koli women are crucial to the running of the fishing trade at the Sassoon Docks and multiple installations and paintings are built around them.

St+art India is dedicated to making art public, taking it out from niche spaces of galleries and museums and the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai where just the right spot to shed light on this historic party of the city again.

Home Of The Koli People.

The Sassoon Dock in Mumbai is home to the city’s traditional Koli fishing community. The Koli people are an ethnic Indian group native to Maharashtra, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana states. It’s believed that the Koli people are Mumbai’s original inhabitants and whose goddess Mumbadevi lends her name to the city. The communities have thrived in the hidden quarters of the city, the koliwadas, which essentially means “a home that opens to the sea“. Much of the art here represents the lived realities of the Koli community – its people, their trade and its smell.

The art project started on November 11 and will run until December 30, 2017. Whether the Sassoon Docks will still be visited as frequently after, is unclear. After all, all the art in the world can’t make the notorious smell, the endless heat and the piercing noise – which are a few reasons people have not come here before – go away.

This has been our second visit to Sassoon Docks and tourists are still a rare sight here. The art installation has brought some upwind, yet only the eager and especially smell-resistent make it all the way to the end of the docks.

Currently, about 1,500 trawlers operate at the Sassoon Docks, bringing in around 20 tonnes of fish every day.

Once you reach the Sassoon Docks, at least 500 people are packed on to a partially-covered chunk of jetty, boats bobbing alongside.

A typical day at Sassoon Docks begins at 5 am when the fresh catch is brought in from the sea.

Over 150.000 people depend on the Sassoon Docks for their livelihood.

Men push loaded handcarts through the crowds at Sassoon Docks as they yell for people to get out of the way.

Despite the fact that most tourist wouldn’t buy fish at Sassoon Docks, women holding tubs full of fish will still ask you.

The docks were built in 1875 by the merchant, Sir Albert Abdullah David Sassoon, a prominent member of the Bombay Jewish community.

Where there’s fresh fish, there needs to be crushed ice. While fish is unloaded off the boats, tons of ice is crushed to keep the fish fresh at the Sassoon Docks.

There are so many ice-trucks on Sassoon Docks, that counting them would be impossible.

In addition to the jetty, the Sassoon Docks house a series of warehouses where the Koli fisherwomen shell prawns with staggering ability.

The sheer variety of fish on offer at Sassoon Docks is mind-blowing: red snapper, tuna, octopus, baby sharks, cuttlefish, blue crabs and stingray are some of the fish you can expect to find here.

Initially, the Sassoon Docks serviced the cotton trade as the Sassoon family were cotton merchants. It was after the decline of the Indian cotton industry that fishing became the main activity here.

The Sassoon Docks are ‘wet’ docks, which means it allows boats to enter at all times because the water level remains the same regardless of the tide.

Apart from Scotlands landmark, the Old Man of Storr, the Quiraing is a must for anyone who visits Isle of Skye; especially if you’re a travel photographer!

The weather in Scotland can be very unpredictable, so it’s best to come prepared. It looked quite nice when we started the trek, yet it turned on us just before we got to the end where you decide to either turn around, or keep walking to finish the loop. It was really windy (really SUPER windy!) and it got foggy as well so we turned around in the end. We could barely keep ourselves from falling because the wind was that strong! On the contrary, it was nice because the wind pretty much pushed us all the way up. The trek itself is not hard, but we’re just going to let the photos speak for themselves.

A few facts about the Quiraing:

• Length: 6.8km (the loop)
• Duration: 2-3 hours (depending on the weather)
• Difficulty: Easy (unless it’s super windy, then you should be aware of the drops)

One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, with the most stunning landscape: The Quiraing in Scotland.

One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, with the most stunning landscape: The Quiraing in Scotland.

One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, with the most stunning landscape: The Quiraing in Scotland.

One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, with the most stunning landscape: The Quiraing in Scotland.

One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, with the most stunning landscape: The Quiraing in Scotland.

One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, with the most stunning landscape: The Quiraing in Scotland.

Due to its special form and beauty of its landscape, the tiny island is often referred to as “butterfly of the Aegean”. Still due to her manageable form, Astypalea offers quite a lot. Especially for vacationers who long to travel away from tourist crowds, it will be love at first sight. Astypalea is quite, mystical, idyllic, familiar with typical Greek ambience, dozens of beaches and crystal clear water. Yet her name holds no meaning to many – 90% of the islands visitors are Greek. The majority of foreign tourists are yet unaware of this hidden island secret.

Astypalea offers few sights. There are several small villages worth a look, yet Chora is the real highlight. Narrow alleys, traditional windmills and the remains of an old Venetian castle grace the islands largest village. Apart from the castle and the red-hooded windmills, a stroll through the streets is the best way to explore. You will also come across the famous white houses with blue roofs, normally associated with Santorini.

But let’s not forget about the stunning beaches. A holiday in Greece would be nothing without spending at least a couple of hours along the shores. It would be like spending a weekend in Paris, without gazing upon the Eiffel Tower. The beaches of Astypalea don’t have a cosmopolitan vibe or white sands, yet they offer turquoise, light-flooded water, relaxation and peace.

What can we say? Our trip to Astypalea was one of the most pleasant experiences we’ve encountered. Here, everyone knows everyone, which makes the island even more likeable. Only in August could you encounter not finding a room. During all other months, it’s quiet. Cozy. What fortune for island and visitor.

Infos & Tips:

• Best time to visit: From spring to fall you’ll find temperatures the most pleasant. This is when the water is warm enough to jump in.
• How to get there: From Athens you can fly to Astypalea in about 40 minutes, or you can take the ferry from Piraeus (even with your own car), which will take about 8-10 hours.
• Where to stay: The number of hotels on Astypalea is limited. The largest house offers only 28 rooms. You’ll search in vain for hotel bunkers. Instead several families rent out private rooms and apartments.

Chora is the capital of Astypalea, built on the hill slope. On top is a Venetian castle situated, known as the Querini Castle.

Querini castle in Chora is a wonderful sight placed on top of the hill. The castle was constructed by John Querini, a noble Venetian family who had taken over the rule of Astypalea after the siege of Constantinople by the Crusaders in 1204. It was built as a shelter against pirates and other enemies.

Due to its isolation, Astypalea has not made it onto many bucket list, yet this is what makes it special for eager travellers wanting to discover something new.

We could spend hours strolling through Chora, looking at all the different houses, cafés and taverns.

In the main square of Chora, you will find eight traditional picturesque windmills.

Astypalea fulfils every Greek island dream: whitewashed houses, blue painted doors and windows, tavernas with fresh seafood, the friendliest people, no mass tourism and all next to crystal-clear waters.

Chora amazes visitors with its unique architecture. The white houses, with their blue windows, wooden balconies and outdoor stairs, give it a traditional Greek charm.

All beaches in Astypalea have crystal clear water and they’re much quieter than beaches on other Greek islands.

Querini castle was made with black stones that shows a strange contrast with the white-walled cluster of houses around it. From up here, you have an amazing view of Chora.

Strolling through the streets of Chora is the best way to explore the village.

You’ll find few accommodation options in Chora and there are also many cafés and taverns that offer delicious traditional dishes.

An Educational Center That Survived For Centuries.

Craco is a hilltop village in the southern region of Basilicata, about 60km from Matera, that was once a monastic center, a feudal town and center of education with a university, castle, church, and plazas. When approaching Craco, you’ll immediately notice its striking appearance. Situated on a very steep summit, which was the perfect spot for defensive reasons, the town is crowned by a Norman tower.

The first written account mentioning Craco dates back to 1060 AD, but Mycenaean settlements developed the land between the 10th and 9th centuries BC. The oldest building of Craco, the magnificent Norman tower, was built in 1040. The population steadily grew to an average of 1.500 inhabitants over the next centuries with 2.600 at the highest in 1561. The construction of the Monastery of St Peter in 1630 helped established a permanent monastic order. However, in 1656 a plague struck Craco, killing hundreds and reducing the population significantly. Towards the end of the 19th century, a severe famine due to poor agricultural conditions caused a mass migration of Craco’s population. Still, many of the “Crachesi” (inhabitants of Craco) were very much attached to their beautiful medieval town and refused to leave.

So what happened? The old part of town was built on bedrock, like most hill towns. When it came time to think of expansion, the people in charge decided to plant houses on the clay that sat over the slippery slope of rock. Modern roads where a must as well and instead of each house having its own water tank, there would be a humongous water-holding tank built to distribute water to the “new city”. Lots of water in the water tank and the added weight of modern roads put an immense pressure on the big field of clay. After a torrential downpour, she came down. Half the town, gone in one sweep.

A Ghost Town Fit For The Movies.

Surviving for over a thousand years, Craco survived the plagues and its share of thieves and bandits, but finally succumbed to natural disaster when landslides occurred. In 1963, the last 1.800 residents were forced to leave Craco for their own safety and were relocated to a new town just a few kilometres away.

Today, all that is left is a ghost town. But thanks to the dramatic landscape and unique atmosphere, Craco has been the set of many movies including Mel Gibson’s the Passion of the Christ or James Bond 007 Quantum of Solace and is a popular tourist destination in the area.

Craco was built on a very steep summit for defensive reasons, giving it a stark and striking appearance and distinguishing it from the surrounding land. The way Craco’s ruins sit high up is quite creepy actually.

Craco is not open to the public. You’ll need a guide to walk you through the ruins due to safety reasons.

Not only do you need a guide to explore Craco, but you’ll also need to wear a hard hat.

It was here that the level of Craco’s destruction became more apparent. This part of the town which was built upon the clay and that suffered the worst of the damage.

It wasn’t difficult to imagine what living in Craco must have been like, standing at the large windows overlooking the surrounding fields which go on for miles or peering inside a desolate church which was once the focus point of a community.

Before Craco was abandoned it was alive with people. People who filled each room with stories and secrets.

It was actually quite difficult to comprehend that less than 50 years ago, this Craco would have been buzzing with life.

Craco was built upon a hillside with the safety of its population in mind. Today, the views over the surround region are absolutely stunning!

The Legend Of The Erg Chebbi Sand Dunes.

Morocco might not the the first destination that comes to mind when thinking about skyscraper high sand dunes, but think again! With Zagora and Merzouga you’ll find two great gateways for a true Sahara desert experience. Our road trip would lead us to Merzouga, a small village only approximately 20km from the Algerian border and on the edge of Erg Chebbi.

A Moroccan legend says that the Erg Chebbi sand dunes were sent by God as a punishment because a wealthy family refused to accommodate a poor woman with her son. Moroccans believe that the dunes piled up outside Merzouga and buried them underneath to teach them a lesson so that they would never refuse to help a tired traveller ever again.

The sand dunes here fulfill Morocco’s promise as a dream desert destination. But unlike in the old days when my parents travelled through Africa, Merzouga is now easily accessible due to the paved road. This has it’s prince: during high season convoys of 4WD’s race across the area and you won’t be able to get photos without people in them (like the ones below).

In winter, temperatures are only slightly above 10 degrees during the day, which keeps many tourists away. For us, it was perfect, because we had the dunes to ourselves. Driving into Merzouga, we immediately recognised the only open Quad shop: Sahara ATV Quad Adventure.

Off We Go: Sand Dunes, Here We Come!

We booked a two-hour ride and only a couple of minutes later, we were on our way. Mohammed was our guide and I’m sure that at first he though something like “here we go again with two chicks who probably don’t know how to drive…”. Well, he realised pretty quickly, that we were not your ordinary girls. Faster, higher is what we wanted. Mohammed took us to the very top of the sand dunes and we had the most spectacular view of the area! With only the sound of the wind, not a single person in site and the taste of sand in your mouth made the experience absolutely unforgettable!

The dunes of Erg Chebbi reach a height of up to 150 meters in places and altogether it spans an area of 50 kilometers from north to south and up to 5–10 kilometers from east to west.

The highest dunes are those near, or just south of, Merzouga itself, peaking with the aptly named Grand Dune de Merzouga, a golden mountain recognisable.

Erg Chebbi is one of Morocco’s two Saharan ergs near the small village of Merzouga. And erg is a large sea of dunes formed by wind-blown sand. The other is Erg Chigaga near M’hamid (south of Zagora).

On top of the highest sand dune of the Erg Chebbi. What a view?!

A berber walks along the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi.

When trying your luck with the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, be sure to know what you’re doing, or you’ll end up digging…

The view from up the top of the Erg Chebbi sand dunes was absolutely sunning. On one side, you see the Algerian border, on the other side the village of Merzouga and Hassilabied.

The Erg Chebbi sand dunes are spectacular at any time of day, but late afternoon was really the best time to view them.

Up from the lighthouse you have an amazing view of Koh Rong Samloem. This island is still as pristine as it was hundreds of years ago and well worth the trip!

Welcome To Paradise.

Just 45 minuted by speedboat from the mainland lie Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem. While Koh Rong already has the reputation of a backpacker-party-island, Koh Rong Samloem is still quite unspoilt. Thanks to the lease agreements, which last just for a short period of time (unlike the ones on Koh Rong), larger hotel chains stay away and the beaches are dominated by smaller bungalow facilities.

You’ll find four beaches on Koh Rong Samloem: Saracan Bay, M’Pei Bay, Lazy Beach and Sunset Beach.

Beach #1 On Koh Rong Samloem: Saracan Bay.

Saracan Bay is the main beach on which not only most resorts have settles, but also the main docking station for boats from Sihanoukville is located. One lies on the norther, one on the southern part of the beach. From fairly cheap non-aircon-bungalows to high class villas, everyone will find the right spot. The beach here is white as snow and soft as silk, the water radiates in all shades from turquoise to blue with wonderful 27° Celsius and the vegetation is still as untouched as is was hundreds of years ago. What more could one want?! Unfortunately you’ll still come across people who don’t appreciate the value of such a paradise. When walking up and down,  you’ll see certain sections where trash piles up. This is where the hotel managers are challenged, because the resort staff should clean their respective section. This was one of the reason why we chose to stay at Sol Beach Resort. The real winner though was the amazing bungalow with a complete glass front, which gave us an amazing view right after waking up in the morning (detailed review will follow asap). The food here was not a winner (especially not if you’re vegetarian), but the surrounding resorts are a great alternative.

Tip: Once you step across the southern docking point of Saracan Bay, trash actually piles up quite a bit, so we wouldn’t recommend booking a hotel down here. Unfortunately the hotel managers here don’t seem to care much for the environment.

This is the view we had from our bungalow at Sol Beach Resort on Koh Rong Samloem. Not bad huh?

The beach front bungalows at Sol Beach Resort on Koh Rong Samloem are really amazing thanks to their full glass front.

This was right in front of GreenBlue Resort on Koh Rong Samloem. The hammocks right above the water are great when the tide comes in.

Beach #2 On Koh Rong Samloem: M’Pei Bay.

The second beach, M’Pei Bay, lies on the northern end of the island. You’ll come across several smaller resorts, as well as a docking stations for boats here. Also, it’s where one of the two fishing villages of the islands can be found. M’Pei Bay is the second largest beach on the island, yet still pretty laid back. You can hike here from Saracan Bay – back and forth it’ll take you about 5 hours, but the best way to get here is definitely by boat.

Beach #3 On Koh Rong Samloem: Sunset Bay.

The third player is Sunset Bay, which is also the only beach we didn’t visit. As Lazy Beach, it lies on the western side of Koh Rong Samloem and is more relaxed with only three backpacker resorts and a dive shop.

Beach #4 On Koh Rong Samloem: Lazy Beach.

Last but not least: Lazy Beach. Our personal island highlight. With just one very basic resort, you won’t come across any masses of people. The 20 minute walk through the jungle from Saracan Bay keeps more crowds away. If you do decide to take on the trip, you won’t regret it: Lazy Beach offers delicious food and drinks and the combination with one of the most beautiful sunsets you’ll ever get to see will leave you speechless.

Once you come out of the jungle, you’ll already get a sense of what live looks like at Lazy Beach.

White sand, beautiful water and almost no people is what you’ll come across at Lazy Beach on Koh Rong Samloem.

The sunset at Lazy Beach was truly one of the most amazing ones we’ve come across.

Résumé Of Our Week On Koh Rong Samloem.

You can spend an unforgettable holiday on Koh Rong Samloem. Due to the lack of roads and the presence of only smaller resorts, the island is yet still a fairly unknown spot with the same charm as many islands of Thailand had two decades ago. Those who were here, will tell others and we’re sure that this will mean further changes in the next couple of years. But let’s hope that Koh Rong Samloem will not become another victim of mass tourism, but that it’ll continue being this pristine little island it is now.

A Few Tips If You Come To Koh Rong Samloem.

• Be sure to calculate enough time for the crossing, because depending on which company you go with, you’ll either stop at Koh Rong to let of/let on people before or after. Boats take off at Serendipity Beach Pier in Sihanoukville and here you’ll get all the relevant infos on which boat goes where and when.
• There are no banks and therefore no ATM machines on Koh Rong Samloem. Be sure to bring enough cash, because some resorts don’t take credit cards. Prices are really expensive too. Calculate at least double that what you’d pay on the main land – or even better, calculate with European prices.
• Be sure to bring enough insect repellant and a torch for the nightly walks along the beach(es) or jungle.
• Definitely check out the lighthouse on the island. Depending on where you start, the trip will take you between 1 1/2 – 2 hours each direction. We’ll write more about this later on.