Hola from the Hunter Valley!

No, not the Hunter Valley of Santa Fe, New Mexico. This is, in fact, the Hunter Valley of New South Wales. As we made our way up the drive of Casa La Vina we half expected the Three Amigos to be facing down El Guapo’s men in the bell tower. But this place is anything but Western schtick.  I can honestly say this is the best accommodation I’ve ever stayed.

Frank and Tracey Anderson fell in love with adobe style of home on a trip to New Mexico and decided to build their own pueblo in Pokolbin. Three years on there is the main house (with the bell tower beloved by bats, not bandits) belonging to Frank & Tracey and three separate, luxuriously self-contained adobes facing a central courtyard available for holiday accommodation.

Internally, the adobe is contemporary (wi-fi, Foxtel), private and stylish with exposed timber beams and with modest Santa Fe touches. Every detail has been considered, from the pergola over the jacuzzi to the Nespresso coffee machine, making this one of the most effortlessly enjoyable places we’ve had the pleasure to rest our heads. I really couldn’t fault a thing. Frank and Tracey were gracious hosts who, on the evening we arrived, were busy helping re-arrange a helicopter booking for a neighbouring couple due to inclement weather.

It was hard to pry ourselves away from Casa La Vina given the rain has set in for the night, but we had a reservation at Amanda’s On The Edge which I had heard of so much over the years, but as yet had not have the opportunity to visit. As it turns out the view is something else! Unfortunately the rain didn’t let up so I couldn’t capture a shot. This was not a problem when it came to the plates however…

Never one to pass up the opportunity to partake in pork belly, I ordered Crispy Skinned Pork Belly on Wok-Tossed King Brown Mushroom Noodles and Dean chose the Crab & Snapper Filled Ravioli with Champagne Butter Sauce. Gone in sixty seconds.

The rainy weather called for some hearty mains. Me; Lamb Rack on a Spinach & Fetta Cheese Filo with a Roasted Tomato & Capsicum Sauce. Dean; Crispy Skinned Duck Maryland on Saute Leek & Shallot with Plum Compote & Golden Kipfler Potatoes. We matched these with a First Creek Pinot Noir, knowing we were visiting them the next day. The perfect way to spend an Autumn evening.

Oh yes, dessert! A perfectly-size pot of Creme Brulee for me and Hot Chocolate Brownie with Chocolate Sauce & Malt Icecream for Dean. We practically needed to be rolled out the door when the taxi arrived.

After a leisurely breakfast of self-BBQ’d bacon and eggs with fresh coffee and juice in our little Santa Fe house we were looking forward to First Creek Wines a little way up the road (we could have walked but it was still raining!). Previous wineries we’d visited spoke in high admiration of First Creek, who first began as an independent winemakers for many of the vineyards in the Valley. More recently they have begun to bottle their own wines, and if the Pinot from last night was anything to go by they are doing a sterling job of it. Let’s just say we didn’t leave empty handed.

It’s not long before wine-tasting leads to lunch-eating and we were on our way to another Hunter Valley institution, Shakey Tables. Like so many enterprises in this neck of the woods, Shakey Tables is a small team effort lead by Simon & Paula Rengger who utilise a vast repertoire of skills to offer a unique experience that includes colourful art (Paula is a trained jeweller and silversmith who paints on the side), food (Paula also happend to head the kitchen in her spare time), wine, accommodation and events (Simon’s specialty). Their combined ingenuity and hard work is evident as we sit back to browse the menu (which Paula has designed, literally).

Duck liver parfait with rhubarb jelly, caperberries, cornichons, Persian figs and garlic croutes is sublime and the Wagyu beef carpaccio with rolled pickled vegetables, crispy quail egg, garlic crisps & parmesan balance distinctive flavours nicely. The perfectly-cooked rolled pork loin for main is crowned with squiggly pieces of pork (immediately Instagrammed) crackle and the rabbit, tarragon & pancetta roulade with a porcini crème, baby root vegetables & a smoked potato puree knocks Dean’s socks off.

Dessert is a visual feast with the famed rose, pistachio & lychee ice cream terrine with Turkish delight in a rose scented jus looking like a Muppet character with its flounce of pistachio fairy floss akimbo. The caramel parfait bombe with chocolate mousse and salted peanut caramel doesn’t quite reach the level of a similar assembly of ingredients we tried on a recent trip to Melbourne’s Golden Fields, but it comes pretty damn close.

Having stayed for as long as possible at Shakey Tables in an effort to avoid the rain, we hot-foot it to Constable Estate Vineyards and are behind schedule. The rain is simply not letting up which is a real shame because this particular vineyard is renowned for its sculpture garden. Having come woefully underprepared for all this wet weather, a tour of the garden means I have to build and elaborate shoe-drying system back at Casa la Vina that involves a hairdryer propped up by rolled towels pointing directly at my shoes for 20 minutes to get them from soaking wet to wearable. This was not before sitting down with two of the loveliest ladies who manage the Cellar Door at Constable, which involved much wine tasting and a thoroughly fascinating briefing into the man responsible for this particular estate, David Constable. We even leave with a copy of David’s book which details the journey from paddock to the lush gardens and vineyard it is today.

After a hot shower and above-mentioned shoe-drying session back at Casa la Vina, we are off again, this time via a courtesy bus (a miracle mode of transport in the Hunter Valley) to Blaxlands Inn. This was the perfect venue for a dinner date in this kind of weather. Our driver recommended we not go past the garlic prawns and their specialty, deep-dish pies. I was pleasantly surprised by the fit-out of the place which reminded me of a contemporary lodge. Not one to take recommendations lightly, I order as I am told and enjoy both immensely. We are too full for dessert and don’t mind lingering in the lounge with the last of our bottle of red while the courtesy bus reappears to take us home.

We wake to blue skies (hooray!) and opt for a Continental breakfast in our little home before we depart for Ogishi Craft Centre at Lovedale. Established in 1987 by Setsuko Ogishi, Ogishi Craft Centre sells original pieces from glass artists around Australia and also offers glassblowing classes and demonstations. Setsuko came to Australia as a painter before settling into glassblowing after training at Adelaide’s Jam Factory and her glass works are highly regarded. The Craft Centre also sells Setsuko’s handmade chocolates and offers a spot to relax if the wine and food is becoming all too much.

Practically next door to Ogishi Craft Centre is Emma’s Cottage Vineyard where wine tasting and art go hand-in-hand. Megan Barrass has filled the cellar door at Emma’s with her original paintings as part of a gallery space and on the labels of the wines themselves. Megan brought in a new piece as we sipped wine. Surrounded by a beautiful rose garden, Emma’s is also home to a laid-back restaurant with a European menu.

Emma’s of Lovedale offers a stylish way to long lunch with a casual ambience, fresh flavours and a very nice wine list. Yes it is possible to have three serves of pork belly in one weekend, but this time Dean ordered it. I was a tad jealous when it come out with two king prawns atop and nam jim dressing, so I am lucky he shares! I have to say the salad of radicchio, Binnorie goats fetta, brunoise of pumpkin and balsamic glaze was a comparatively healthy way to end what was an otherwise decadent weekend of wine, food and more food. Oh, I nearly forgot about the vanilla pannacotta and strawberry consomme…

Casa La Vina
657 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 406 770 294
www.casalavina.com.au

Amanda’s On The Edge
1039 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin
+ 61 408 649 696
www.amandas.com.au

First Creek Wines
600 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7293
www.firstcreekwines.com.au

Shakey Tables
1476 Wine Country Drive, North Rothbury
+61 2 4938 1744
www.shakeytables.com.au

Constable Estate
205 Gillards Road, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7887
www.constablevineyards.com.au

Blaxlands Inn
2198 Broke Road, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7550
Ogishi Craft Centre
540 Wilderness Road, Lovedale
+61 2 4998 7979
www.ogishi.com.au

Emma’s Cottage Vineyard
438 Wilderness Road, Lovedale
+ 61 2 4998 7734
www.emmascottage.com.au

Emma’s of Lovedale
438 Wilderness Road, Lovedale
+61 2 4998 7333
www.emmasoflovedale.com.au

Hunter Valley Wine Country

Please join me for another jaunt around the wine-producing region of the Hunter Valley. I am sure it will make you as green as the rows of vines that lace the landscape.

As you may recall, I was one of three lucky bloggers selected to report to you, dear reader, on just a few of the splendid things to be enjoyed in a weekend in the gorgeous Hunter Valley -  on the ground and in the air (more on that later).

Our arrival coincided with Hunter Valley Wine and Food Month – that’s right, a whole month dedicated to the finer things in life. A time when makers and growers move out from behind the shadow of their drops and dishes and become co-stars of the show.

The first show in store was a Steak & Shiraz appreciation tasting at the Hunter Valley Steakhouse located within the Mercure Hunter Valley resort. The venue is very reminiscent of an old-school lodge as we walk by a billiard room framed in dark wood panelling. An open wood-burning fireplace was roaring and we felt very snug coming in from the cold. Executive Chef Jean Marc Pollet brought us cuts of organic grass fed, Pure South Angus & Wagyu beef to view and explained to us the qualities of each, before grilling them to medium-rare for a taste test alongside local Shiraz from McGuigan, Tyrrell’s and Moorebank wineries. It was quite interesting to determine the different attributes for ourselves in this vertical tasting of sorts. While Wagyu seems to get all the attention these days, I came away with a new appreciation for Angus – so much so I ordered it for dinner. I have to say, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as a well-cooked steak and we certainly left happy campers.

But camping we were not. Our accommodation was located a few minutes drive away at Grand Mercure Apartments within the grounds of The Vintage, a Kellerman’s type resort with golf course, club house and day spa, however I’m pretty sure without Johnny Castle teaching merengue dance classes. We get the keys to a near-new two bedroom duplex with views out to the seventh hole, a gas fireplace and a really, really deep bath.The really, really deep bath gets really, really full and then I understand the whole point of the glass wall (above). It’s so you can watch the TV located in the bedroom while sipping wine from your bubble bath.

The next morning after a terrific pep up breakfast at The Vintage across the way from our apartment, we head next door to Chateau Elan, which is where the spa is located. We opt out for a facial, massage and pedicure and instead opt in for a helicopter ride! I have never been in a helicopter before, and always secretly hoped it’s something I’d tick of the list of ‘things to do once in your lifetime’. I was kinda excited. Any nerves were forgotten as our pilot Debbie from Slattery Helicopter Charter gave us the low-down. I can now see myself hopping in and out of helicopters for the rest of my life. Seriously, people like Debbie make it look so easy! When I am a millionaire….

L: A new appreciation for vine planting pattern

R: Peppers with Pepper Tree Wines to the lower left

Landing at Tower Estate

We could have landed at Tower Estate within 2 minutes, but Debbie the Pilot took us the long and scenic way ie over pretty much every winery and B&B in the Pokolbin region – a truly breathtaking perspective – that had us land within a simple stride to the door of Tower Estate. With the venerable Len Evans looking down over us, we tasted some outstanding wines in front of a crackling fire. It was a struggle to settle on a favourite, but we walked out with a few bottles of the 2010 HV Shiraz (which did not last long back at home).

The next stop was literally a 10 minutes stroll up the road to Pepper Tree Wines, but why walk when you can helicopter? Off we zoomed with a detour over the western edge of Pokolbin and over the very photogenic Hunter Valley Gardens (above) before landing in the field behind the tasting room at Pepper Tree, all within the time it would have taken us to walk to Pepper Tree. It seemed outrageously extravagant, but also very rock star.

The character oozing from Pepper Tree Wines is like the filling from a soft-centre chocolate – so sweet, so good. A cobbled path takes you past a newly opened coffee house (where they shall soon be roasting their own beans) through a cottage garden to the tasting room proper. Another fireside sip on some delicious wines meant we were hauling home several more bottles, including a Wrattonbuly Tempranillo. The biggest question was, ‘Will there be enough room in the chopper?”.

As it turns out, yes there was. Just. Another take off into the Hunter Valley skies and back to the start of our adventure at The Vintage. We bid Debbie a fond farewell  and grateful thank yous for making the dream come true.  Then feeling decidedly plebian we booked a taxi to our next destination.

We were back to Brokenwood for a Semillon & Sushi masterclass with an overwhelming feeling of rock star all over again. With sushi mats at the ready and a plateful of ingredients we were instructed on the delicate art of sushi assembly, while sipping on a vertical tasting of Brokenwood Semillon. As you can tell from the pic above, I obviously require more practice, or less sipping of Semillon. Our group was a decent size of people who turned out were either from Newcastle or very close by. Before long we had formed a camaraderie around our shared hometown and discussed the pros (there aren’t really any cons) of living within a 45-minute drive of the Hunter Valley. One of the being taking an easy morning or afternoon trip ‘up the road’ to take part in activities such as this.

We were then invited to take a wander across the road to Oishii Japanese & Thai restaurant for lunch and see how the experts do it. A degustation menu paired with Brokenwood wines was awaiting. Starting off with a trio of Thai style king fish tartare, salt cod brandade with horseradish cream and slow cooked king prawn with exotic fruit vinaigrette we sampled (and I use that term loosely) Broken wood 2011 Semillon (yum), 2012 Pinto Gris and 2008 Voignier.

This was followed  by a plated trio of cubed Wagyu rump with sweet potato puree & soy jus, braised lamb shank spring roll with curry mayo and rounded out with a mushroom ragout and a sous-vide egg cooked at 62 degrees. These were matched with a 2009 Pinot Noir (my fave), 2011 Sangiovese and the 2009 HV Shiraz. We all toasted Masterchef’s contribution to the meal for having taught us all what sous-vide is. I have to say, I am a big fan of degustations these days and I think it’s a no-brainer way of sampling a little of so much of what a chef and a winemaker can offer. It’s also perfect for people like me that take forever to make up their minds when ordering from a menu.

L Lunch at Oishii // R Dinner at RidgeView

As you can imagine our group was jovial by this stage so we retired to The Goldfish Bar next door to continue our getting-to-know-yous. You can tell it’s a good day when you completely lose track of time and within what seemed like the blink of an eye we had to bid our new friends goodbye and hotfoot it to a taxi for our dinner reservation.

It seems we are heading slightly off the beaten track that is McDonalds Rd et al as the driver calls ahead to ask if the weir on the main road into RidgeView is flooded. If so, an alternate, slightly longer and bumpier route in will need to be navigated. It seems the weather is on our side and we are told the regular route is passable. My adventurous spirit is awakened as we begin our Leyland Brothers-esque adventure. High beams are on and so begins negotiating almost flooded weirs and bumpy roads in. I’m told the dining room of this Cypriot Meze restaurant faces out over picturesque vineyards, but it’s pitch black dark outside. We are lured to the warm lights of the dining room and settle in nicely with a glass of Chambourcin.

The space here is warming and intimate and the little-out-of-the-way-ness makes this place feel even more special. I’m sticking with my degustation formula because I simply can’t make up my mind. The tasting plate of chili salt squid (with 2011 ‘Generations’ Reserve Semillon), chicken souvlaki with a village salad and tzatizki (with 2007 ‘Helping Hands’ Red) and, lastly, grilled haloumi with pear & pisatchio (with 2010 Pinto Gris) is just what the doctor ordered. Each plate is a light and flavourful and the matching wines are a delight.

We end up sharing the chicken and prawn jambalaya with herbs, chorizo with a seafood bisque sauce and rice is rich and hums with full flavours of crustacean goodness.

And finish off with loukoumades, a traditional Greek ‘donut’ tossed in cinnamon sugar and drizzled with a honey glaze and served with vanilla bean icecream. If you are after a comforting meal from your Cypriot granny (Yaya?) but with all the best modern twists, Ridgeview is perfect. We felt looked after and leave very satisfied.

Cafe Enzo’s sunny courtyard

The next morning after sleeping like a log, we head off for breakfast. I must have driven past Peppers Creek Village, home to Cafe Enzo, David Hook Wines and a very sweet chapel and wedding reception venue, upteen times before. When we told our friends the night before that we were headed here for breakfast they all nodded approvingly so we already knew we were on to a good thing. A really good thing. Seriously, if you are going to go anywhere for breakfast . brunch, make sure it’s this place. The stone and timer building was originally built as a home for a local artist and we sat inside in what would have been the loungeroom, with the loft that was once his studio space, above us. There is a lot of character including a centuries old carved timber mantle over (yes another!) fireplace. In every corner you look there’s beautiful detailing. Sunny baked eggs with pops of cherry tomato and fetta and long thin swords of toasted bread were the perfect way to start the day. As was the coffee. I managed to convince Dean to hand over some of his crispy bacon too.

At the Small Winemakers Centre we took part in an Icons blind tasting, the point of which is to prove that Hunter Valley Shiraz can go head to head with the revered Penfolds Grange. Locals legends Brokenwood Graveyard,  McWilliams Maurice O’Shea & Thomas Kiss were lined up alongside a Grange from which you try to determine who is who.  I got two right, but I can tell you it was pure luck; a case of adding numbers to names. As it turns out I could happily take home a Brokenwood Graveyard and very easily convince myself I was drinking Penfold Grange. Go Brokenwood!

The Legends wines were just a smidge over our budget but we managed to walk out with a few bottles of The Little Wine Company’s Tempranello.

A little way down the road is the winery Bimbadgen Estate. Last time we were in the Hunter Valley they were playing hose to Noiseworks with the kind of outdoor concert the Hunter Valley is so well-known for these days. Simple Minds, Devo & The Church will be playing here in December and the position of the winery atop a hill provides a natural amphitheatre for concertgoers. Inside the winery is Esca, a restaurant that’s a staple for Modern Australian food with wine matching in the Hunter Valley. The interior is clean and fresh and the views out of the vines is a perfectly pleasant distraction.

Again, we go with a degustation and Chef Ebonnie Newy does not disappoint. Allow me to walk you through it…

A pretty plate of seared tuna, mushroom salad, daikon and ginger dressing, salmon pearls matched with Bimbadgen Regions 2011 Sauvignon Blanc makes for a snappy start. Then twice baked cheese souffle, cauliflower and black truffle emulsion with a gunshot of beetroot powder is served alongside Bimbadgen Regions 2011 Pinot Gris is warming in all its cheesy glory.

To round out the white plate there’s a shot glass of prawn bisque, shaved fennel and a layer of basil foam married with a lively Bimbadgen Estate 2011 Verdelho . Then it’s onto the red tasting place. Confit of duck, roasted quince, red wine jus and a Bimbadgen Regions 2010 Pinot Noir is my idea of a match made in heaven. Purply-green micro-herbs make it all the more attractive.

Just when I think the high-mark has been and gone it’s on to the nraised Cowra lamb shank, de-boned and rolled in prosciutto, broadbeans and raisin compote. A tender package of salty and sweet, stamped ‘delivered’ with Bimbadgen Estate 2010 Shiraz.

Of course, Byron Bay pork belly can do no wrong in my eyes and accompanied with a cassoulet of butterbeans, sage and kassler, caramelised pear and  Bimbadgen Family Collection 2009 Bald Crusader Shiraz, is a tummy filling end to a triumphant lunch.

We are one hundred per cent caught in the moment of a lazy Sunday lunch on this sunny afternoon in the Valley. Before we know it an hour’s past since the plates were cleared and we can’t say not to a cheese plate with fig and apricot salami, muscatels, toasted walnut & red wine bread and to cap it all off a sip of Bimbadgen Estate 2006 Botrytis Semillon.

This weekend has left us feeling immensely mature beyond our prior food and wine tasting experience. Our knowledge of steak, sushi, helicopter take-off and landing procedures, legendary Shiraz, Cypriot and the new ModOz has grown exponentially in a matter of days. Not to mention the wine. All that wine.

Hunter Valley Steak House
cnr Broke & McDonalds Road , Poikolbin
+61 2 4998 2000
www.mercurehuntervalley.com.au/steak-house-restaurant

Grand Mercure Apartments, The Vintage
cnr Vintage Dr & Claret Ash Dr, Rothbury
+ 61 2 4998 2222
www.grandmercurehuntervalley.com.au

Flying with Slattery Helicopter Charter
+ 61 408 649 696
www.slatteryhelicoptercharter.com.au/

Tower Estate
Halls Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7989
www.towerestate.com

Pepper Tree Wines
Halls Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4909 7100
www.peppertreewines.com.au

Brokenwood Wines
401-427 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7559
www.brokenwood.com.au

Oishii Restaurant
Tempus Two Winery, cnr Broke & McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7051
www.oishii.com.au

RidgeView
273 Saltwater Rd, Rothbury
+61 2 6574 7332
www.ridgeview.com.au

Cafe Enzo
Pepper Creek Village, cnr Broke & Ekerts Rds, Pokolbin
+ 61 2 4998 7233
www.enzohuntervalley.com.au

Small Winemakers Centre
426 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7668
www.smallwinemakers.com.au

Esca Bimbadgen
790 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 4666

Hunter Valley Wine Country

When Hunter Valley Tourism announced they were on the hunt for three Ambassador Bloggers to report about some of the finds in the wine growing region that is a mere 45 minutes by car from my front gate, I entered. If I die not winning another competition in my life, I will die happy. Joining me in the onerous task of drinking loads of wine and eating ourselves stupid over three weekend throughout the year is Lisa Perkovic (www.lisaperkovic.com.au) and Billy Law (www.atablefortwo.com.au). They’ve already reported on their first weekends here and here. Sucks to be us, hey?

It’s a funny thing about having something truly amazing right near to where you live and never visiting. I remember meeting many Londoners who’d never set foot in France or Scotland. “But it’s two hours away”, I would state stunned. “One day”, was their usual response. I guess it’s easy to be complacent when something’s so close, but being a Sydney ex-pat whose keen to discover all that’s great about my hometown, I’ve visited the Hunter Valley a few times over the last two years. But there’s still so much I’ve never seen. Friends tell me of wineries, restaurants, views and things to do that I never even knew existed. Our first weekend away afforded the opportunity to have some more Hunter Valley secrets revealed.

The first port of call was the sleek accommodation at Tonic Hotel, nestled in the Lovedale region of the Hunter Valley – a place I’d never detoured to on previous trips. Shame for me, because it’s a beautiful and relatively quiet spot filled with some excellent wineries and other secrets (to be revealed in Part 2). The drive up to our one of four modern duplex cottages on the vast property involves crossing a small weir (it has been raining all week) and I instantly leave my troubles at the gate and snake up the drive. Everything, from the slippers and robes to the bathroom that is bigger than my own bedroom at home define relaxed luxury. Breakfast is neatly serviceable from our own kitchenette. Aesop products the ready to indulge. It was unfortunate that the weekend we arrived it was still bucketing with rain, otherwise we would have taken advantage of the pool and pool house. Instead we laid out on the bed and watched a mob of kangaroos survey the hillside while nibbling on grass right out the front of our verandah. Yeah, this gig is going to be real tough.

Killing some time leading up to our dinner reservation we read a local magazine to discover my mug in a feature article on unique experiences in the Hunter Valley and those about to experience them. He!

Dinner was booked for us at Leaves and Fishes a short drive away. Whilst warm, it was pouring with rain so it was great to leave our our umbrellas at the door and sit out on the covered verandah and feel as if we’d be transported to Thailand during the rainy season. You see, Leaves and Fishes is not just a restaurant but also a fish farm and a deck places you right out over one of the dams from which you can feed the fish stale bread. It’s intimate, beautifully decorated and the food! Oh my goodness.

Never one to go past pork belly whenever it is on a menu I order Leave and Fishes’ version with papaya, chilli and lime. It does not disappoint. A glass of Allandale Pinot Noir (whose winery is located a hop, skip and a jump away) rounds out the meal nicely.

Dean is partial to soft shell crab whenever it is on the menu. It was accompanied with a Thai flavoured salad. The dressing, sitting like a little moat around the crab meant we (yes, I had some too!) could still taste the gentle flavour of the crab and follow with a crunchy crab leg drenched in a wonderful mouth-tingling taste of a beautifully balanced dressing.

Mains had Dean going for the crispy skinned duck with steamed asparagus, confit potato and ginger butter. To my mind it’s hard to go wrong with crispy-skinned / confit anything. I went with crispy whole fish (baby barramundi) with ginger, pea sprout salad and seared greens. Like a tasty, edible version of a petrified fossil my buggy-eyed whole fish is sublime. I didn’t eat my greens (eep!) as the fish and salad were more than enough and I knew dessert was coming up.

As a general rule I am a two courses kinda gal, but I am going all out here. Time to loosen the belt as the old saying goes. Chocolate fondant, cookies and cream gelato w honeycomb for him. Vanilla creme brulee w pistachio wafer and fresh nectarine and berries for her. Around 15 minutes before heading into food coma territory, we depart the cozy surrounds of Leaves and Fishes in exchange for the comforts of Tonic Hotel.  You’re really feeling for us right about now, I’m sure.

The next day, awaking refreshed from a the first sleep I wasn’t awoken multiple times with little people’s requests for refreshments, loo chaperoning or nightmare therapy, we have a light breakfast knowing we’ve a big lunch ahead of us. This morning we are on a wine trail adventure. Brokenwood at Pokolbin, a mere 15 minutes away by car, is our first stop. Now, I’d been to Brokenwood before, but not Brokenwood proper. There’s a big cellar door location not far up the road, the one I’ve been to, which offers tasting for larger groups. This smaller entrance is actual Brokenwood HQ, where all the wine is produced. It has an intimate cellar door with Brokenwood artifacts such as wine labels and bottles of vintages past. The ‘Cellar Door Cru’ are very friendly and it’s not long before Head Winemaker Simon Steele is taking time out his busy schedule (they are still picking and fermenting during our visit) to show us the inner workings of the vineyard.

Simon Steele checks out progress.

Nearly blew my own head off getting in too early to have a whiff of fermenting grapes. Whoah!

Simon spent his first vintage at Brokenwood, in the exact opposite of weather conditions than what’s on offer right now. In 2003 it was hot and dry. He then went on to complete his Oenology degree at Adelaide University. He has worked in the Adelaide Hills, Clare, Margaret River, McLaren Vale and held winemaking roles at Shadowfax, M. Chapoutier Victoria and in Spain. His attitude to wine making appears to be very democratic, giving staff the opportunity to experiment. His outlook is so refreshing.  Beside the enormous vats of fermenting grapes, there are smaller vats in which the same grapes have been treated a little differently – experiments to see if a hunch will pay off. We are offered samples of grapes at various stages of fermentation. I struggle to appear like I know what I am doing with the end product, let along grapes half-way though the process, so I try to take the vastly different taste in my stride. I don’t think I was too successful. It’s not long before we are at the pointy end of the tour with glasses lined up for wine tasting proper.

The Hunter Valley is renowned for its Semillon and I’ve partaken in a glass or two of Brokenwood Sem in the past. But the Forest Edge Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is a revelation. My personal favourites are light reds, so I was thrilled to learn that Brokenwood also offer a stunning Sangiovese, which is actually produced in Victoria’s Beechworth region. We depart with a split dozen of the Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese. Our wine pigeon holes at home will finally have some company!

Next we head cross-Valley, north towards the Hunter River and the location of the region’s first vineyard, Wyndham Estate. The leisurely 45-minute drive sees us pass dozens of wineries and cellar doors which lessen in frequency the further we travel. Once we cross the New England Highway the landscape changes from mainly bush to paddocks. It’s a surprising contrast and illustrates the growth and concentration of wineries from this first location next to the Hunter River in Dalwood when transport was so reliant on the River to more recent concentration further south in Pokolbin and surrounds when transport options over land opened up the valley. Its isolation certainly provides a point of difference and the location beside the currently swollen Hunter River is stunning.

The Estate is home to a grassed amphitheatre that has played host to Shirley Bassey and Ray Charles. The original homestead of pioneering George Wyndham built in 1830, located in one corner of the vast property, is now owned by the National Trust.  The building that houses The Olive Tree Restaurant, cellar door and winery was built in 1904 and incorporates sandstone blocks from the original winery built in the mid 19th century. A trophy cabinet displays a silver cup awarded to Wyndham Estate in 1869. The tracks on the floor at the entrance to the Cellar Door mark the passage of the old wine press. This is history, people!

A well-serviced picnic area beside the riverbank is a great location if you are interested in self-catering, something I’ve not seen done at any wineries in Pokolbin (though I am sure someone’s got it covered) and it’s a great option if you have children. Alternatively there’s The Olive Tree Restaurant, which is the reason we are here. You might remember head Chef Andy Wright cooked the paella at the ABC1233 lunch that I was lucky enough to be invited to last year.

We make the rookie mistake of telling Chef Andy we are happy for him to choose for us. So. Much. Food. My usual practice of two-courses more than doubles for this lunch. The worst part? The food was so good, we had no choice but to give it a solid go. I know, poor us.

First up we are served a shared platter of something I do not eat enough of when in season, fresh figs, on this occasion accompanied by beautifully cured strips of prosciutto. Complimentary olives left us with something to graze over while the next entree made its way to the table, buffalo mozzarealla with truss tomatoes, basil and white anchovies. It’s been too long since I’ve enjoyed proper anchovies, and fresh buffalo mozzarella for that matter. Oh, how I’ve missed them!

While the main meal is being prepared, we score a tasting bowl filled with grilled Crystal Bay prawns, crispy cubes of pancetta, punchy chilli and even punchier preserved lemon. Try this at home people! It is sensational.

At the point when we’re wondering just how big the mains will be, out comes a bowl of roasted kipfler potatoes with garlic and rosemary and a platter of watercress, frisee lettuce, rocket, red cabbage, capers, peas, Parmesan and radish dressed with verjuice. The glory went to the Tajima Wagyu 8+ sirloin steaks (plural!) crowned with a disc of melting caper butter. Our table is now jam-packed with mis-matched vintage crockery and cutlery alongside glasses of Wyndham Show Reserve Shiraz. It’s as if we have returned to Nonna’s house and she’s taken it upon herself to fatten us up. I don’t know if this is what they mean by Slow Food, but that’s exactly how this meal is eaten. And it is fantastico.

We sit back for a good half an hour before deciding to share a dessert, you know, just because. Roast honey with local figs (double hurruh) with olive oil and Sauterne cake and vanilla ice cream. We had to be rolled out of the restaurant at this point, but not before detouring via the cellar door to secure a sneaky couple of whites.

Lovedale is surprisingly close to Wyndham so it’s not long before Dean and I are lying like starfish on the bed back at Tonic Hotel wondering how on Earth we are going to fit in dinner. Food induced coma? Does a two hour nap count?

Awake from our slumber we hot foot it to The Legends Grill at The Vintage. I’ve never partial to golf itself, but ever since Karate Kid I am quite fond of a country clubs and The Vintage is about as close to country club as we get in Australia. There’s elegant homes bordering the 18-hole golf course and and luxury accommodation by way of Chateau Elan which also has a fancy day spa.

But we are here for the wood-panelled and Chesterfield lounge filled Club House and its adjoining restaurant The Legends Grill. Now, what golf club wouldn’t be a golf club without a restaurant that favours a steak? Oh, and some lobster, scallops, pork belly and barramundi too…

And then there was dessert (buttermilk panncotta with peach compote, raspberry sorbet and champagne jelly).

I’m still not sure how we managed to fit through the door on the way out.

Needless to say we slept like logs (again) and woke up bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. Breakfast was out of the question….but wine tasting was not. We headed to Gartelman’s not far from where we were staying. This winery is the perfect example of what Lovedale does so well. Independent wine makers who provide their own distinct take on cellar door operations. Most people ask Jorg Gartelmann if he’s a Collingwood man, going by his wine’s mascot the magpie, but no. It seems the magpies seem to love hanging about this part of the valley and are valuable allies for Jorge as they scare away other birds that would make a meal from the grapes growing on the surrounding vines and eat grubs and moths that might also cause a headache for viticulturalists. They also have a distinctive song that any Australian would regard with fondness.

Jorge takes us through their offering, including The Benjamin Semillon, Verdelho and Chardonnay before we get on to the red. The Diedrich Shiraz is names after Jorge’s grandfather and has won numerous gold medals. The years it didn’t win a medal was probably the times it wasn’t make because the fruit wasn’t considered good enough to try.

With a half dozen bottles of wine in the boot, we make our way around the block to Sabor in the Hunter, a dessert bar offering, what we were soon to discover, the most incredible Portuguese chocolate mousses and handmade chocolates. We decided breakfast was in order so naturally bypassed the croissants and chose a chocolate mousse tasting plate, including traditional, hazelnut, orange chocolate and mocha. It’s easy to understand why they are award-winning.

We make sure the babysitter is looked after with a box of handmade chocolates as we bid farewell to the Hunter Valley. It’s been an extraordinary weekend, filled with So. Much. Food. and lots of great memories.

Tonic Hotel
251 Talga Rd, Lovedale
+61 2 4930 7022
www.tonichotel.com.au

Leaves and Fishes
737 Lovedale Rd, Lovedale
+ 61 2 4930 7400
www.leavesandfishes.com.au

Brokenwood Wines
401-427 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin
+61 2 4998 7559
www.brokenwood.com.au

Wyndham Estate
700 Dalwood Rd, Dalwood
+61 2 4938 3444
www.wyndhamestate.com.au

The Olive Tree Restaurant
at Wyndham Estate
700 Dalwood Rd, Dalwood
+61 2 49381831
www.olivetreerestaurant.com.au

The Legends Grill
at The Vintage Golf Club
Vintage Drive, Rothbury
+61 2 4998 2213
www.thevintage.com.au

Gartelmann Wines
701 Lovedale Rd, Lovedale
+61 2 4930 7113
www.gartelmann.com.au

Sabor In The Hunter
319 Wilderness Rd, Lovedale
1300 958 850
www.saborinththehunter.com.au

Hunter Valley Wine Country

You’ve heard of four ingredient recipes, right? Let me introduce you to one and two ingredient recipes. The first is a chocolate mousse that only uses chocolate and water and the second is a banana ice cream that only uses bananas.

In the spirit of the shortness of these recipes I will make this quick…

French food scientist Hervé This discovered an ingenious way to make chocolate mousse. He is also responsible for discovering a way to unboil an egg.

Herve This’ Chocolate Mousse
Serves 4

225g couverture chocolate
200ml water

First, prepare two bowls. One filled one-third with ice. The second, smaller enough in size to nest within the ice bowl. Set aside.

Break the chocolate into small pieces and place in a medium sized saucepan with the water over a medium heat. Stir the mixture until the chocolate until completely melted.

Pour the melted chocolate into the smaller bowl and whisk over the bowl of ice, preferably using an electric whisk to aerate as much as possible. As the chocolate cools it will thicken and appear much like whipped cream. It’s at this point that you stop whisking and start eating.

Should you over cool the mousse (it happens quite quickly), simply reheat back to fully melted and begin the whisking / cooling process again.

I served the chocolate mousse in the tiniest vessels I could find as it is so rich that several spoonfuls will satisfy even the most ardent chocolate lover.

Lots of bananas getting over ripe in the fruit bowl? Have someone who is dairy intolerant over for dessert? This is the recipe for you…

Banana Ice Cream
Serves 4

6 bananas

Peel and slice your bananas. Place the pieces on a baking tray and store in the freezer for at least 4 hours or until completely frozen.

When you are ready for your ice cream, remove the banana from the freezer and place in a food processor; whiz for several minutes until smooth and creamy. Serve immediately on it’s own or with nuts, a dash of honey or a sprinkling of Milo.

You could keep your frozen whole bananas or pieces of banana in a container until you are ready to use them – they last for months in the fridge. They can then be used for smoothies, banana cake, or in this case, ice cream. But, you won’t be able to freeze your banana ice cream – it will discolour.

As the Newcastle Show Cookery & Jams Competition draws closer (March 16-18) I’ve had a number of friends mention they would like to have a crack at entering. Their reasoning is that if Dean can win Best Chocolate Cake then surely it can’t be too hard. And they would be right. With a little preparation everyone has equal standing for a first prize medal. There’s nothing sweeter than victory in a cooking competition, especially if it’s your first time. Of course, Dean and I will both be back defending our titles in 2012.

To help the novices, I’ve drawn up a list of do’s and don’ts. Some of these I learnt as a result of the live judging that took place at the Newcastle Show last year, and some gleaned from speaking with Cookery Steward and medal-winning competitor, Ellice Schrader.

Sponges lined up // Scones of every variety awaiting judgement

I’d also recommend purchasing The Country Show Cookbook if you intend on entering any classes that don’t provide recipes. These are recipes from successful entrants at Country Shows all around Australia. This is the book from which my award-winning scones came from. I also would never have realised chocolate chip biscuits are different to chocolate chip cookies without the help from this book.

Here are the tips.

Read the class outline carefully. Mistakes that will incur automatic disqualification include decorated (sprinkles etc.) or iced cake when class stipulates otherwise and an incorrectly sized or shaped cake tin if one has been specified. The other big no-nos are cakes which have been presented upside down or that have had rounded tops leveled by cutting off any bulge. Some people think a perfectly smooth and flat top would be better than a cracked or bulging top­–it’s not. The CWA ladies are all over that kind of subterfuge. By the way, if your cake does have a bulging top its because your tin is too small for the volume of cake mix and a cracked top is the result of a too hot an oven.

‘Plate of 6 Plain Pikelets’. The difference between each is telling. The plate of dark pikelets would be discounted straight away. Their uneven colour loses big points.

If you intend on entering a jam or pickle never use wax to seal jars and be careful about mixing jams in the wrong category. For example, entering your strawberry jam in the berry jam class when strawberry jam already has a class of its own.

Mistakes that will lose you points include:

+ Residual flour on cakes
Use a dry pastry brush to remove excess flour. If you butter and then flour your cake tins before pouring in the batter remember to tap out the tin to remove any excess flour.

+ Sugar spots
The white spots on the outside of baked cakes are caused when sugar recrystallises. This is usually from too much sugar and not enough fluid in the batter. Contributing factors include using regular sugar instead of caster sugar, which dissolves more easily and baking at too low temperature, which causes more liquid to evaporate over the longer cooking period. Sponge cakes are particularly susceptible to sugar spots.

+ Rack marks on base of cakes
Cool your cake in its tin on top of a cooling rack. Once cooled completely don’t leave a turned out cake on a cooking rack. Be sure to place a tea towel between it and the cooling rack to avoid rack marks.

+ Air bubbles in baked cake
Be sure to tap your filled cake tin on the counter a few times before baking to release any air bubbles.

+ Patty cakes & muffins presented in paper cases
The judges need to view the entire outside of patty cakes and muffins and paper cases get in the way. Bake direct into a pre-prepared patty cake and muffin tins (ie greased lightly with butter).

+ No packet cake, unless where stated
The judges’ eyes and palate are fine-tuned and can tell a packet cake recipe from a mile away.

+ When icing is required, ice only the top of the cake, not the sides
More a principle of tradition, but also allows judges to view some of the outside of the cake.

+ Incorrect type of icing or dripped icing
It’s all about attention to detail.

+ Additional decorations ie coconut, cherries, peel.
Be sure to read the requirements for your class correctly. For instance the fruit cake class specifically asks for no artificial cherries and chocolate cake must be iced, but not decorated (ie no 100s & 1000s)

+ Artificial cherries in fruit cake
Glazed cherries only.

+ Jam & pickle no-nos
These include using unclean jars and jars with labels and lids with branding. Also jar lids must be paper, cellophane and cloth free (no twee decorations) and must be 500ml in size.

L: The judge holds up an excellent example of orange cake (no bubbles), even brown crust

R: This chocolate cake was presented upside down to conceal an uneven top. The judges only have to lift it up to know.

If you are after some glory the most acclaim comes from winning any one of the following classes (common mistakes are outlined in brackets):

+ Plate of four plain scones (uneven colour, burnt bottoms, taste bi-carb soda, hard-as-a-rock, on a lean, too flat, wrong size – should be cut with a 6cm pastry cutter)
+ Sponge sandwich (too flat, uneven layers, not light enough that it cracks when cut and sugar spots)
+ Fruit cake (not cooked through, too much paper used to line tin)
+ Banana cake (sinks and not cooked in the centre)
+ Berry jam (inconsistently sized fruit pieces, not enough ‘berry’ taste)
+ Pickles (inconsistently sized vegetable pieces, messy patterning of vegetables)

If you are after some suspense, butter, chocolate and orange cakes are often difficult to judge as they are such a tight race. It was agony watching and waiting for a decision to be made on Dean’s chocolate cake last year.

Phew! Are you still game? Entries Close March 9 with an entry fee $1 per class.  The schedule and entry forms can be found here.

Judging takes place during the Show and is open to the public. If you enjoy baking or jamming (or even eating baked or jam goods) I highly recommend you sit in. The Newcastle Show is only one of very few Regional Shows that have live judging and you are free to ask the judges questions as they move through the classes.

Maybe I’ll see you there. May the best cook win!

JUDGING TIMES
Fri 16 Mar, 2pm: Judging Jams & Pickles
Fri 16 Mar, 11am: Judging General Cookery & Fruit Cakes & Puddings
Sun 18 Mar, 10.30am: Junior Cookery

DELIVERY TIMES
Thu 15 Mar, 10.30 – 12pm: Jams & Pickles
Fri 16 Mar, 8-10am: General Cookery
Fri 16 Mar, 8-10am: Fruit Cakes & Puddings
Fri 16 Mar, 8-10am: Jams & Pickles
Sun 18 Mar, 8-10am: Junior Cookery