There are numerous blogs, photographs and travelogues on the GR20 but these beautifully narrated videos are by far the best ones I’ve seen on the topic.

This film shows sights most visitors to the island never get to see up close: exuberant forests, rocky peaks, waterfalls, vast green meadows and glacial lakes.

(Duration: 55 minutes)

Thank you Michele for sharing this experience!

To view a larger version of the films visit GR20 Corsica. Enjoy!

The cost of dining on these boats is comparable to what you would pay at a typical café or restaurant. Traveling by sea is much more relaxing than flying, with the added benefit of not having to worry about luggage volume or weight restrictions.

You can take a ferry from Bastia to Livorno, Italy for instance (about 30€ for a one way ticket) and visit Pisa, Cinque Terre, Tuscany and Florence in just a few days. (Prices may vary with season).

I have traveled in and out of Corsica on Corsica Ferries (www.corsica-ferries.co.uk) but there are other ferry operators servicing Corsica.

For more information on traveling by ferry see: Corsica by Sea

Driving through Tuscany

Accommodations

On several occasions, we were able to book apartment hotels with full kitchenettes which helped save on meals. The food in Europe is so delicious and wholesome that part of the pleasure of traveling for me is buying and preparing food and being able to sample a variety of wines and food products.

New Ports of Call

For the time being, I am taking a break from this blog, (mainly to go through the thousands of photos and notes I have collected on my most recent travels), but I’m sure I’ll continue to visit Corsica and write about it at some point in the future.

In the meantime, I appreciate the encouraging comments and messages I’ve received from some of my readers since my last blog post. Please feel free to drop by and continue sharing your unique experiences on Corsica and nearby Mediterranean destinations.

Until next time, happy travels!

“Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain

It would take several blog posts to cover the details on this journey but from London, my friend and I took a bus to Dover where we boarded a ferry to Calais. Then we stopped in Paris, spent three days in Caen, visiting the landing beaches of Normandy (Juno and Omaha) and Mont St. Michel, and from there we continued to La Rochelle and Carcassonne.

We averaged about 400km a day which gave us just enough time for sightseeing, refueling, eating and checking in and out of hotels. The final leg of the trip was a ferry ride from Toulon to Bastia, Corsica which was very enjoyable.

Internet Access

Except for a couple McDonald’s I found on the road (with weak Wi-Fi signals) I didn’t find a single cyber-café in Normandy. (That’s not to say there aren’t any I just didn’t see a single one).

One of the hotels where we stayed had Internet access but not during Easter weekend, since the whole staff took off for the holiday and the computer room was locked. The few times I had Internet access I used for checking emails and for booking reservations.

Hotel Reservations

I’ve found www.Booking.com an essential tool for traveling through Europe. They have a good selection of conveniently located properties and we’ve been able to find average daily room rates of 50 Euros (double occupancy in April). We booked multiple reservations through them without any problems.

Resources

www.nationalexpress.com – London to Paris (bus and ferry)
www.directferries.com – Toulon to Bastia
www.booking.com – Hotels in France
www.autoeurope.com – Car rental

Hello,

I would like to go to Corsica on April 17th. All I can find about the weather is “averages.” I know that the weather is changeable, but what kind of sunshine can I expect? Sun with 18 C° degrees is a lot different than cloudy all day with 18 C° degrees. Does the rain come in part of the day or are there long gray days? I’m OK with a bit of rain, but if it’s going to be drizzly, maybe not.

Also, I noticed quite a reduction in the number of rental places available, what about restaurants and boat excursion companies – reduced schedule or not operating at all?

Thank you.

This is an excellent question so I decided to share my reply in this post.

There are many establishments open in April, less crowds and low hotel rates, all pluses worth considering when booking a trip.

Average room rate in April: 50-55 Euros a night
Average weekly apt in April: 300-350 Euros /week (vs. 600 Euros in the Summer months)

You will probably have mixed weather. Rain or drizzle one day, then one or two days of sunny and clear skies.

The water temperature may be a bit cold for most visitors but there is a lot to do and see in Corsica besides going to the beach: visit mountain villages, enjoy hikes along the ocean or inland, go horse back-riding, kayaking, cycling, rock-climbing, wine tasting and dining. Ultimately, it all depends on your personal taste and what you enjoy doing.

If you want perfect weather with daily blue skies then May, June, or September are the best months. July is OK weather wise but hotel rates go up. The weather in August is really hot and humid, the island very crowded with tourists and hotels rates are at their peak.

In general, anytime from April to October is a good time to visit Corsica.

Spring 2010

As you may have noticed, this past Winter was unusually cold in many parts of the world, including Corsica. It even snowed in Ajaccio on March 11, 2010, a very rare occurrence.

The weather in Corsica is currently pleasant (April 13, 2010). (Low 8 degress – high 18 degrees centigrade). A light jacket is required. Since April 7th there has only been one rainy day.

If you want to see scenes of snow covered mountains like the one above, April is a good time to visit.

Murtoli, a rustic farmhouse on a secluded cove on the southern coast that can only be reached by sea or helicopter and Fiore di Vazze, a restored stone shepherd’s hut, overlooking the Gulf of Valinco with a pool fed by a natural spring.

Murtoli © Camille Moirenc

Fiore di Vazze © Serenity Holidays Ltd

Both places are definitely charming but for me, La Tour de Micalona with its stone walls, low ceilings, small fireplace and a shower dug into the rock is a true love’s nest.

Micalona is the only restored Genoese tower on the island where visitors can stay and enjoy 360 degree ocean and countryside views.

“The property is not overlooked so one can enjoy the plunge pool as nature intended with stunning views over the sea” writes a former guest.

Tour de Micalona © Jean-Pierre Amet

Regardless of where you choose to stay, there are innumerable sensual pleasures to enjoy on any budget in Corsica: the constant scent of wild rosemary, myrtle, juniper, lavender and other herbs that fills the air, exquisite food, incredible wines and a bewildering variety of landscapes.

If you search on Kayak, Priceline or your favorite online travel site, you’ll probably find that AA charges the highest rates on airfares from the U.S. to France.

The following is a screen shot of a a search made on March, 7th, 2010 on Priceline from Miami to Paris. Travel time frame: April, 2010.

(Click to Enlarge)

I got the same fare on other search engines and I also called the airline to confirm. Their best rate on a non-stop flight from Miami to Paris, CDG was $1,464.20 while Air Canada, Continental and United offered the lowest fares. I even tried other departure/arrival dates and the results were the same.

Luggage Handling

On top of the fact American Airlines charges $20 per suitcase, when necessary, they will send luggage in different airplanes to help balance the load, since they now try to pack as many passengers as they possibly can on every flight to control costs.

I understand times are hard and it is important to use cabin capacity efficiently but I hope they only do this on domestic flights within the U.S. and not on International flights.

If you’re visiting relatives, then waiting a day to get your luggage may not be a big deal. But if you’re going on a cruise or carrying outdoor gear, or taking a connecting flight to another destination, being separated from your luggage for more than a day, will likely put a damper on your travel plans.

Perhaps American Airlines offers competitive fares to other destinations or maybe you’ve had a positive experience flying with them. If so, please share your thoughts on this or any other airline by leaving a comment below.

International Wholesale Airfares

www.wholesale-flights.com provides incredible discounts on international flights -as much as 40% of what you’d normally pay for a plane ticket. Check them out first before you book a flight.

Traveling from Europe

If you’re traveling to Corsica from Europe here’s a list of
International Discount Airlines.

In case you’re wondering, I usually travel to Corsica on Air France. If I miss my connecting flight to or from Corsica (through their fault), I get to stay in Paris or Corsica one more day at their expense.

Related Posts

Corsica Budget Travel Tips

Traveling through Paris

Planning Ahead

If possible, avoid the months of July and August when room rates are at their peak and finding suitable accommodations may be difficult. Instead, try to visit during mid season, (April-June, September-October) for the most pleasant weather and affordable room rates.

Expect to pay about €89 a night for a 3 star hotel during mid season. Hotel rates usually include taxes and VAT. Lower rates can be found in two star hotels, which usually lack air conditioner, (not a big problem if you avoid traveling during the hot summer months).

Inland Corsica

Venture into the interior of the island and enjoy the crisp mountain air and abundant streams and waterfalls.

You don’t have to travel far to see ancient villages with cobblestone streets and old chapels. Traditional villages like Calenzana, Montemaggiore and Zilia are only a minutes away by car from the seaside resort of Calvi and offer spectacular views of the coastal plain and the bay of Calvi below.

In these inland locations, away from the touristy, beach resorts visitors can often find inexpensive lodging and meals.

See Corsica Day Trips for more sightseeing suggestions.

Getting to Corsica

You can fly to Corsica from most European cities or catch a ferry from several harbors in Italy and France. Corsica is serviced by four airports located in Calvi, Bastia, Ajaccio and Figari, near Bonifacio.

Corsica By Sea

Traveling by ferry from mainland France or Italy provides a convenient and inexpensive way to visit Corsica. If you’re traveling through Italy, Corsica Ferries offers several links to the island with departures from Civitavecchia (in the summer), Livorno and Savona all year round. The island of Sardinia is only 7.5 miles (12km) from Corsica by ferry.

Driving in Corsica

I highly recommend renting a car to explore the island. If you are traveling from North America or Australia, Auto Europe will most likely offer you the best deal in car rentals.

Accommodations

Corsica offers a wide range of accommodations from campsites to four star hotels and a variety of choices in weekly rentals including holiday villas, apartments, B&Bs and rural farms.

Inexpensive Meals

If you stay in an apartment or holiday villa you can save money on meals.

For breakfast and lunch, stock up on delicious food and enjoy outdoor picnics. A baguette, some fresh cheese, prosciutto slices, locally grown fruits and a few chocolate croissants can last you until dinner time.

In Corsica, some of the most exquisite delicacies are found in fresh, open markets and small shops. Traditional Corsican charcuterie is prepared with the meat of free-roaming pigs that feed on acorns, chestnuts and maquis, a wild, aromatic bush endemic to the island.

Corsican wines are one of the island’s best kept secrets. Despite its small size, Corsica has eight AOC wine regions producing wines that continue to garner recognition in Europe.

Gites-de-france.com Family accommodations, B&Bs, self-catering

Flights, Hotels, Car Rentals etc.

Nestled in the heart of Corsica, fifteen minutes south of Corte on route N193, is Casa Agostino Giafferri, a Bed and Breakfast located in the village of Poggio di Venaco.

The property overlooks the Bozio mountains, a remote area located between the Tavignano Valley and la Castagniccia, and it is a place where artists, researchers, designers, and business people frequently gather.

Casa Giafferri is equipped with meeting facilities, a projection room, a concert hall and Internet access. Annette Luciani, the owner, lived in the U.S. for 20 years and speaks English.

Photo by: Kelly Summers

If you want to enjoy delicious homemade food, let Mme. Luciani delight you with her traditional Corsican dishes, made with fresh, home grown fruits and vegetables.

Photo by: Kelly Summers

The Corsican cédrat (shown in this picture) is a citrus fruit used to make an after-dinner liqueur and to garnish meats, salads and desserts. Corsican cédrats or citrons are unique for their superior size and taste due to the richness of the soil and their geographical location on the island, where nearby hills protect them from cold winds.

The Town of Venaco

When driving between Ajaccio and Corte, one of my favorite places to stop for lunch is Restaurant de la Place, located in the town square, off of the main road, for its hearty meals and affordable prices.

Venaco has easy access to hiking trails, a horse riding stable and local artisan shops. The town can be reached by train and it is a favorite with hikers in the Summer.

Room rates are reasonable, (80 Euros a night with breakfast included).

Languages: French, English, Italian.

Location

Local Attractions

La Restonica – Outdoor Paradise in the Heart Corsica

www.mattandkellysummers.blogspot.com is the personal blog of Kelly Summers where she currently writes about her stay in Corsica. The cute girl in the photo is her daughter Sadie, standing next to her dad, Matt Summers.

A hillside village, on the northern part of the island.

A popular beach in the Summer time now blanketed in snow.

Spring Flowers

With so much moisture in the soil, Spring in Corsica promises to be a spectacular display of colors, as wild flowers take over the mountains and wide open spaces on every corner of the island.

One of my favorite wild herbs is mint, easily recognizable for its tiny lilac colored flowers and perfect for chewing on its leaves while hiking or for brewing tea. Myrte also grows abundantly on the island, a plant whose white flowers are used to make a special sweet liqueur. One could write several blog posts about the vegetation in Corsica, which includes many wild and cultivated fruits used to make preserves and liquors.

As temperatures rise, scents of rosemary, lavender, rock rose, pine and other fragances permeate the air.

Spring is a good time to visit Corsica if you want to avoid the Summer crowds and take advantage of mid season hotel rates.

Related Posts

Camping in Corsica
Hotels in Corsica

Horse-backriding provides an authentic outdoor experience without hiking or carrying a backpack.

Travelers can try horse riding for a day (90€ per person), or join a four day (450€ per person) or a seven day excursion (800€ per person) and discover a hidden side of Corsica few tourists get to see. (Prices may vary. I’ve listed these here just to give you an idea).

Horseback riding trips are available in various skill levels so that even beginners can enjoy the experience. In addition to safety, the company of an experienced tour guide is essential to discover the best spots on the island.

What to Bring

If you’re going to ride for several days at a minimum you should come prepared with a hat, sunblock and appropriate clothing. Wear pants to protect your skin from constant friction instead of shorts but do not wear heavy jeans.

Always carry a good supply of water, about 1-2 liters per person. Even though there are numerous mountain springs on the island, you don’t want to come off the horse every time you need a drink.

The tour company will give you a detailed list of what to bring, depending on the duration and difficulty of the itinerary.

A Changing Scenery

Travelers can find opportunities for riding in almost every corner of Corsica.

In Cap Corse, there is a trail between Sisco and Luri and further north from Macinaggio to the West coast of the peninsula.

La Balagne offers trails in the heart of the forest of Tartaigne and Bonifatu over part of the Tra mare e monti (between sea and mountain) hiking trail.

The Desert of Agriates, near St. Florent, is one of the best spots for horse backriding over secluded beaches.

In the center of the island, near Corte, the farm inn L’Albadu, offers rides and simple accommodations.

One can ride along the sea from Propriano on the Gulf of Valinco all the way to the village of Bonifacio, in the extreme south, while galloping along deserted, sandy beaches.

The area of Alta-Rocca offers the chance to ride over snow covered peaks until the beginning of Spring. From the foret de l’Ospedale to Porto-Vecchio, riders can enjoy mountain scenery while slowly descending to the sea through pine forests and maquis covered hills.

Equestrian Centers in Corsica

There are more than 35 equestrian centers in Corsica and many of them are within reach of the main tourist areas. Most of these centers do not have a web site though. The best way to find them is to inquire at the local tourist offices.

When driving, look for the words cheval (horse) and centre équestre.

These are just some of the companies that offer guided tours in Corsica:

www.rideinfrance.com

www.randonnee-equestre-corse.com

www.randochevalcorse.fr

Can’t decide whether the charms of la belle France outweigh those of bella Italia? Then visit Corsica, … You get the best of both worlds: excellent food and wine, great summer weather, hiking trails with mesmerizing scenery, and towns steeped in vendetta history. Plus, a sea that shimmers peacock blue. If I had to pick a favorite place in the Mediterranean, Corsica would be it. Ajaccio, Bonifacio, and Calvi make three interesting bases to discover the island.

Steenie Harvey, travel writer and Euro Editor at International Living.

I think Steenie summed it up real well. There are beautiful beaches, monuments, historic landmarks and magnificent mountains in many parts of the world. But I don’t know of too many destinations that combine all those attractions into one tiny island, coupled with safety.

Below is a quick preview of what you’ll find in Corsica.

1. Charming fishing ports and marinas, inviting outdoor cafés, outdoor markets, ancient mountain villages, warm, friendly people.
2. Hiking trails to match all fitness levels and diverse scenery from gentle coastal paths to the most grueling trail in all of Europe, the GR20, a 14 day hike that traverses Corsica from North to South through the highest summits on the island.



© Celine Ragonnet

3. Unspoiled beauty combined with the safety and infrastructure of a developed nation. Corsica is virtually crime-free, safe for single woman traveling solo and families with children.
4. The taste of Pietra beer, brewed from chestnut flour, Orezza natural mineral water, Italian gelati stands, tongue curling sweet and pungent cheeses, Muscat, a sweet wine usually served as an aperitif, perfumed bittersweet honey with hints of lavender and rosemary, fantastic liquors made from a variety of herbs and fruits endemic to the island including: citron, chestnut, clementine and myrtle.
5. Innumerable attractions within a short driving distance. You can start the day on a secluded beach, drive to the mountains and enjoy alpine scenery and authentic Corsican food in a mountain village, then head back to the coast through narrow, twisted highways overlooking the ocean and end the day in a harbour, on an open-air café.



6. Water everywhere. Rivers, natural mountain springs, waterfalls, long stretches of beach.
7. The sky is bluer and cleaner in Corsica. More than one third of the island is a natural park.
8. Rich history. Due to its strategic location on the Med, Corsica has been invaded and occupied over the centuries by Etruscans, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Moors, Catalonians, Germanic tribes, Saracens, Pisans, Genoese and finally the French.

The music of Corsica reflects this mix of ethnic influences, the long lamenting sounds remind us of Spanish flamenco quejios (laments) and Middle Eastern sounds.

For more information see: Visit Corsica Guide

Corsican Music

Corsican music is mostly performed by men. Their songs praise the beauty of the island, lament the loss of freedom and national identity and reflect an intense love for the homeland. This music appeals to many audiences, even if they can’t comprehend the lyrics, I believe because it’s filled with intense emotion.

I’ve included a small sample of the rich and unique sounds of Corsica below.

I don’t know the Corsican language, but I know enough Italian to make out a few of the words and phrases.

The song opens up with this verse: When will they remember or realize that this land is mine? When will I have my country returned to me?

You get the idea…This is a proud, nationalistic song filled with raw energy. The name of this group is Voce di Gravona (Voice of Gravona).

Note: Only a minority of the population wishes to gain independence from France. Corsicans are warm and friendly towards tourists and they are friendly towards Americans. Even though they liberated themselves from fascism during WWII, they appreciate and remember the assistance they received from Allied forces (in the form of weapons and ammunition) which enabled them to do the job.

If you enjoyed this post, please share it with others.

This photo illustrates what I love most about Corsica: Peaceful beauty, bountiful nature and breathtaking wide open spaces. In Corsica farm animals are allowed to live and grow as nature intended, which results in some of the best food products in the world.

Holiday Tradition

The traditional Christmas meal consists of roasted goat or lamb, roast accompanied by polenta and lasagna.

The quintessential dessert served on Christmas Eve in France called the Bûche de Noël, a cake made to resemble a log of wood, becomes the Bûche à la châtaigne in Corsica, with the addition of chestnut paste to its mix.

Winter is a good time to enjoy Corsican charcuterie and brocciu, Corsica’s famous fresh cheese, best consumed during the Winter months.

Wishing you all a Happy Holiday Season!

Calenzana is a village located just a few minutes from Calvi and famous for being the starting point to Europe’s most challenging hiking trail, the GR20.

Related Posts

Corsican Cheeses
Corsican Charcuterie
Around Calenzana – Calvi

Timeless Corsica

There’s been a lot of new construction on the island in recent years, particularly in some areas near Ajaccio, Calvi, Bastia and Porto-Vecchio, but the change in Corsica’s landscape has been rather slow compared to the rate of growth in other parts of the world.

Driving through Cap Corse, on the west coast

In Corsica, small hotels, restaurants, groceries, bakeries, wineries and other family owned businesses are often passed down from one generation to the next. For this reason, travel information tends to remain current, for the most part, and you can be sure to receive the same or similar quality of service at a hotel or restaurant for years.

Recently, I came across these images of downtown Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica, which clearly show not much has changed in the past 100 years. The old postcard dates from November 2, 1906. (Click the photo below to enlarge).

Credit: www.American-in-Corsica.com

Mountain villages and hamlets, like Sant’Antonino below, have managed to maintain their authentic old world feel.

Corsica offers sustainable and responsible tourism, with roughly two-thirds of the island occupied by a natural park, a green oasis where hikers, rock climbers, kayakers and other outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy active sports in all seasons.  Corsicans proudly protect their traditions, their language and their island.

Above is the entrance to the fortified Haute Ville (upper town) of Bonifacio.

Despite attracting an international yacht crowd, Bonifacio has managed to preserve its authentic character with very little modern development.

Corsica offers an authentic travel experience, unspoilt beauty and superb cuisine, at a price most travelers can afford.

Photo credits: Unless otherwise indicated, all ancient photos above belong to: www.cpa-corse.com

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Mediterranean Beaches

Sea urchins are abundant along the Mediterranean and can often be seen in shallow, rocky waters. Not surprisingly, they find their way into many local dishes (including appetizers, pasta and stews), in countries from Portugal to Greece.

Since the waters in Corsica are crystal clear and most of the sea urchins are black (at least the ones I’ve seen) they’re very easy to spot and pick up. (This is one reason why I usually wear water shoes).

The locals in Corsica prefer to eat them freshly picked, right near the beach with bread and a chilled bottle of white wine.

The edible part of this spiny creatures consists of five bright orange lobes that are very soft and tasty, (not hard and rubbery like conch or squid).

Sea urchin fishing is regulated in Corsica and only permitted from December 1st through the end of March. It is important to respect these rules both for consumer safety (less risk of contamination) and to preserve the population of sea urchins along the Corsican coast.

In mainland France and on the island of Corsica sea urchins are considered a treat for New Year’s Eve celebrations.

Sea urchins are present in other parts of the world as well including the US, Canada, Chile and Japan. If you enjoy sushi, sea urchins can be found in the menu of many Japanese restaurants (look for “Uni”).

Sea Urchin Roe

Do you dream of doing some extended travel abroad but feel you lack the resources to do so? There are a number of creative ways to fund a long term stay abroad.

This post explores three ways in which you can enjoy an extended visit to Corsica, but you can apply these suggestions to visit other destinations around the world as well.

1. Volunteer in a Farm

This is a great way to pay for a portion of your travel (free room and board) and mingle with the locals, while immersing in the local culture and helping the environment.

Corsica in Company is an organic farm located in the Southeast of the island in a place called Pratu, near the Taravo Valley. They are registered with WWOOF, Help Exchange and Workaway, three established organisations with host locations worldwide.

The property is owned by an English-speaking couple who has lived in Corsica for several years and they normally host volunteers from April through October. Advance booking is always recommended especially in the summer months.

Some of the tasks include vegetable gardening, weeding, irrigation, fencing, track repairs, logging, brush clearance, mowing, general maintenance, various small construction and building projects.

The Taravo Valley region offers a wealth of activities and attractions including rock climbing, and hiking excursions.

Corsica in Company is situated about an hour south of Ajaccio and 90 minutes away from Bonifacio.

Nearby towns: Propriano, Porto Pollo, Sartene, Campomoro and Filitosa (a prehistoric site). Their website provides excellent information on traveling to Corsica.

2. Work Online

If you’re a knowledge worker (web designer, graphic designer, writer etc.) and you’re willing to do a bit of homework and planning you can fund your travels while working.

There are cyber cafes in almost every town in Corsica. In addition many hotels and even some campsites offer free WiFi. In many hotels though, WiFi is only available at the hotel lobby.

Corsica is on Paris time, exactly 6 hours ahead of EST in the U.S. which makes it easier to stay connected with clients and colleagues.

There are dozens of sites devoted to the topic of lifestyle design and nomadic living, offering many tips, articles and even eBooks on the subject.

Below are two I recommend:

* NuNomad
* Location Independent Professionals

One caveat: It may be difficult to sit in a hotel lobby or a smoky café, just minutes away from the ocean while typing away at a laptop for hours (while  spending Euros).

For this reason, you may want to buy some free time by saving enough money to support yourself and your travel expenses for one or two months (or longer) prior to your trip, or limit your projects and the number of hours you plan to work each week so you can enjoy the sights.

3. Work for ClubMed

There are two ClubMed villages in Corsica open only during Spring and Summer.

In general, you don’t have to be in top physical shape to work at these villages (in contrast with some adventure tour companies) since most travelers who stay at ClubMed in Corsica are either families with children or people age 65 and older.

Usually to work for ClubMed you need to speak at least two languages: English and French. (If you have a specific technical skill or if you are a certified scuba diving, sailing or ski instructor then being bilingual may not be mandatory). The pay may not be great, but you get to stay in some fabulous locations with all expenses paid.

Normally, this employment option is only open to European and African citizens from former French colonies.

US and Canadian citizens when hired are normally sent to ClubMed resorts in North America, Mexico and the Caribbean.

www.clubmedjobs.com

Lavender Flowers

Corsican honey varies based on the season, source vegetation and whether it is made from flower nectars or miellat (called honeydew in English), a thick liquid composed of liquid bee excrement and rich in sugars and amino acids.

Honeys made from miellat are darker and more concentrate (with less water and a higher sugar content).

Apiculture in Corsica

Beekeeping in Corsica dates back to antiquity. During the Roman Empire, about 180 BC, Corsica had to pay a tax equivalent to 90 tons of beeswax as a tribute to Rome.

Today, Corsican beekeepers incorporate modern breeding methods with their traditional, ancient practices. These skills combined with a generous abundance and variety of native flowers provide all the necessary elements to support an industry that is one of the world’s sweetest art forms and one the backbones of agriculture. (See “Honey Facts” below).

The chestnut tree, also considered the tree of life in Corsica, has played an important role in Corsica’s economy, providing a basic fuel and food source to humans and farm animals alike. In Corsica chestnuts are used to make cookies, pastries, beer, jams and honey.

Honeys in Corsica tend to be full-bodied, complex (simultaneously sweet and bitter) with hints of herbs, and very aromatic.

The maquis, a wild bush endemic to the island which includes rosemary, sage, thyme, mint and lavender, lends Corsican honey an unmistakable taste and color.

Types of Honey

Six different types of honey are produced throughout the year in Corsica, namely:

Printemps (Spring), Maquis de printemps (Spring Maquis), Miellats du maquis (Maquis Honeydew), Châtaigneraie (Chestnut), Maquis d’été (Summer Maquis), and Maquis d’automne (Autumn Maquis).

I don’t get carried away by these fancy designations. Small independent producers sell their honeys at local markets and I find them all to be very tasty. I’ve even bought honey jars that had no label and I’ve been very pleased with the quality.

Corsican honey is exquisite with goat or ewe cheese or served with hot cereal, toast and tea.

Four Amazing Facts About Honey

Next time you sample some honey remember:

• Honey bees are the only insects that produce food for humans.
• It is estimated that about a third of the food in an average grocery store, as well as a large portion of the produce department, depends on honey bee pollination.
• Honey bees visit approximately two million flowers to make one pound of honey.
• To produce 2 pounds of honey, bees travel a distance equal to 4 times around the earth.

(Source: Blue Ridge Honey Company)

No doubt, bees and beekeepers play an important role in the ecological health of our planet.

Where to Buy

Corsican Products

Related Post

Corsican Grastronomy

Temperatures range from 4 to 15 degrees Celsius (40 to 60 degrees F.) and the mountain summits are crowned with snow.

Most beaches are deserted in the Fall and though the water is a bit chilly for my taste, I get around this problem by wearing a wet suit when bathing on the beach. Armed with a second skin I can enjoy Corsica almost anytime of the year.

When traveling in late Fall, it is advisable to bring appropriate clothing like sweaters, long sleeve shirts and jackets.

Without the tourist crowds or the intense Summer heat, Autumn time in Corsica offers a nice opportunity to explore villages and interact with the locals in a more relaxed way.

Another big plus of visiting the island during off-season is being able to find bargain priced accommodations and more vacancies.

Winter Sports in Corsica

From December to March snow accumulation in the central part of the island turns the Niolu valley into a winter wonderland, where outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy cross country skiing and snowshoeing.

The Niolu valley, at the foot of the highest peaks in Corsica, the Paglia Orba on the left (shaped like a bird’s beak) and Lake Calacuccia in the foreground. – © Marie Taddei

Corsican Delicacies

The cold season is a fine time to enjoy sanglier (wild boar), charcuterie products like saucisson and figatelli, Brocciu (Corsican fresh cheese), and seasonal fruits like the Corsican clementine, the only clementine produced in France available on markets between November and January.

Getting There

From highway N193, route D84 leads to the mountain village of Calacuccia.

Another nearby location for cross-country skiing is Haut-Asco, further north on N193 past the town of Ponte Leccia, on route D147 along the Asco river. This road dead ends into a park that leads  to some of Corsica’s highest peaks.

Visitors can find accommodations in Calacuccia or in Corte, located south of Calacuccia on route N193.

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Girolata – © Rune S. Johnsson

One of the highlights of this park and reserve is Girolata, an isolated coastal village with about two dozens permanent residents, with its own Genoese tower and a small fortress, one of the few square shaped watchtowers in Corsica.

Girolata, Genoese Tower – © Celine Ragonnet

A Natural Marvel

Although most world heritage sites are man made structures, Scandola was carved out by volcanic activity, wind and sea. This area is notorious for its dramatic cliffs, red jagged rocks and pillars found only in this part of Corsica.

Scandola – © Celine Ragonnet

These clear waters, with their islets and caves, are home to a rich variety of wild and marine life including peregrine falcons, osprey and lobster.

The combination of sheer cliffs, some reaching a height of 900 meters, sandy beaches and transparent seas makes this area a popular attraction to both hikers and yacht aficionados.

Getting There

From June to September there are daily boat tours leaving from Ajaccio, Cargèse, Porto and Calvi.

Hikers can visit Girolata almost all year round. Girolata is connected to the island by a trail, about 90 minutes on foot from the nearest road.

Starting from Col de la Croix, located on D81 (the Calvi-Porto road), a trail descends through the maquis all the way to the coast. (About a 3.5-4 hr moderate hike).

There are a couple restaurants but no hotels. Visitors can spend the night in rural gîtes, wood cabins or tents.

France currently boasts 33 World Heritage Sites including cathedrals, roman ruins, prehistoric sites and other man made structures, with 36 more sites awaiting approval. The Scandola Nature Reserve is one of France’s two natural sites.

The GR20 is one of the most challenging long distance trails in Europe, with positive elevation gains ranging from 1,000 to 2,600 m per day, mostly over rocks, not soft dirt paths. There are spots along the trail that require the use of chains and ropes to move forward.

Previous Record

An amazing display of super human strength and endurance, Kilian completed the legendary 200 km trail in only 32 hours, 54 minutes and 24 seconds! (The previous record was set in 2006 by Pierrot Santucci who finished the race in 36 hours 53 minutes, an amazing feat as well).

The GR20, normally takes 2 weeks  to complete, if you’re an experienced hiker in top physical shape. This trail is not for amateurs.

To illustrate, just completing the 200 meter climb to lake Capitello from lake Melo shown in this photo is an introduction to rock climbing.

This photo shows the almost vertical ascent that separates the two lakes on the opposite face of the mountain. Imagine climbing 1000 meters or more in just one day!

More than two-thirds of the island of Corsica is protected by the PNRC, the Parc Naturel Regional de Corse established in 1972. The GR20 begins in the town of Calenzana near Calvi in the north and winds its way south through the interior of the island down to the village of Conca, near Porto Vecchio.

Access Points

There are several access points to the GR20 for those who just want to do sections of it. Two of the most popular ones, accessible by car, are Asco Stagnu (Haut-Asco) via the D147 road from Ponte Leccia and the mountain pass or Col de Bavella, near the village of Zonza, a spot that is frequented by tourists for its many attractions.

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Additional Information

GR20 Travelogue

If you’re looking for a place with plenty of outdoor activities for the whole family in a beautiful setting and conveniently located, I strongly recommend the Restonica Valley, just a short drive from Corte on route D623.

You can enjoy a pleasant drive from Corte and have lunch at “Le Relais des Lacs”, better known as Chez Cesar, or create your own Restonica triathlon by biking from Corte to the Bergeries de Grotelle, hiking to the glacial lakes of Melo and Capitello and then swimming in their cool waters (you may want to bring a wet suit).

But you don’t have to do any of those things to have a great time. There’s plenty to see and do along the Gorges de la Restonica.

BIKE

Europe Active rents bicycles and they’re located less than an hour away in Borgo, near the Poretta airport south of Bastia. They are also an outdoor tour operator.

You can pedal from Corte along the Restonica to the end of the road at Chez Teo and leave your bicycle there, to start the 90 minute walk to lake Melo.

Bike Rental: Borgo – Bycicle Hire – Europe Active.

HIKE

This area is the starting point to several hikes. If you only have a day, then probably the best choice is to hike to lake Melo (about 90 minutes away from the Bergeries de Grotelle). The hike to Capitello (another 200 meters up) requires climbing through rocks for about an hour.

SWIM

The twin lakes of Melo and Capitello provide a refreshing break at the end of each hike. The hike to Melo is moderate but the ascent to Capitello may not be suitable for some.

About Lake Capitello
Altitude: 1930 m.
Maximum Depth: 42 m.

This lake is frozen during 8 months of the year so if you plan to swim in it visit from June to September.

EAT

Chez Cesar, a log cabin in a beautiful outdoor setting is a great place to stop for food and drinks. But they’re only open from midday until 4pm so plan accordingly.

Chez Teo, a little chalet located at the Bergeries de Grotelle parking lot is open from morning until early evening. Their menu is limited but if you order ahead they can prepare a nice Corsican meal for you, specially if you’re traveling with a group.

SLEEP

If you wish to spend the night in the most rustic campsite next to a stream, Camping Tuani, is about 5 km before the Chez Teo parking, and it has a small cafe that serves hot meals. (Telf: 04-95-46-11-62).

If camping is not your style, you can go back to Corte, just 5-8 minutes away by car and enjoy a nice dinner at Place Paoli before returning to your hotel.

Driving distances from Corte

Ajaccio 80 km (about 90 mins)
Aleria 40 km
Bastia 70 km
Borgo 54.2 km (about 52 mins)
Calvi 90 km
Porto Vecchio 100 km

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