Mechanism of Action:

PGA’s humectant properties stem from its unique molecular structure. The numerous carboxyl groups along the polymer chain can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, attracting and retaining moisture within the skin. This hydration mechanism contributes to several key benefits:

• Enhanced Skin Hydration: PGA’s superior water-holding capacity leads to a significant increase in skin moisture content, improving skin elasticity, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and mitigating the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Improved Barrier Function: Optimal hydration is crucial for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. PGA reinforces the barrier function by enhancing the cohesion of corneocytes and promoting the formation of a healthy lipid matrix.
• Antioxidant Activity: Studies suggest that PGA may possess antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

Formulation Considerations:

The efficacy of PGA in cosmetic formulations depends on factors such as molecular weight, concentration, and the presence of other ingredients.

• Molecular Weight: High molecular weight PGA forms a film on the skin surface, providing sustained hydration and a smoother feel. Lower molecular weight PGA may penetrate deeper into the skin, potentially offering additional benefits.
• Concentration: The optimal concentration of PGA varies depending on the desired effect and the formulation type. Typically, concentrations between 0.1% and 2% are used in cosmetic products.
• Synergistic Effects: Combining PGA with other humectants, emollients, and active ingredients can enhance its efficacy and create well-rounded formulations.

Sourcing of PGA:

PGA used in cosmetics is primarily derived through a fermentation process using microorganisms like Bacillus subtilis. These bacteria produce PGA as a byproduct of their metabolism. The PGA is then extracted and purified for use in cosmetic formulations.

Regulatory Status:

PGA is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and is approved for use in cosmetics in various regions, including the European Union and Japan.

Future Directions:

Research on PGA continues to explore its potential benefits and applications in cosmetics. Ongoing investigations focus on its role in wound healing, anti-aging, and skin lightening, suggesting a promising future for this versatile biopolymer in the realm of skincare.

Chemical Structure and Isomers

Bisabolol exists as two isomers: α-(-)-bisabolol and β-(-)-bisabolol. α-bisabolol, the more prevalent and pharmacologically active form, is characterized by a trans configuration at the double bond within its cyclohexene ring. This structural feature contributes to its superior anti-inflammatory activity compared to β-bisabolol.

Sourcing Bisabolol: Natural vs. Synthetic

Bisabolol can be obtained from both natural and synthetic sources:

• Natural Sources:
  • Chamomile: Primarily derived from German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), bisabolol is a key constituent of its essential oil.
  • Candeia Tree: The Candeia tree (Vanillosmopsis erythropappa), native to Brazil, provides another natural source of bisabolol, extracted from its wood essential oil.
• Synthetic Production: Bisabolol can also be produced synthetically via chemical processes, offering advantages in terms of sustainability, purity, and cost-effectiveness.

Both natural and synthetic bisabolol, when properly sourced and purified, offer comparable efficacy in skincare applications.

Mechanisms of Action

1. Anti-inflammatory Activity: Bisabolol exhibits potent anti-inflammatory effects primarily through the inhibition of leukotriene synthesis and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) activity. This results in the downregulation of pro-inflammatory mediators, reducing erythema and edema.
2. Antioxidant Properties: Bisabolol acts as a free radical scavenger, protecting skin cells from oxidative damage induced by UV radiation and environmental pollutants. This antioxidant activity contributes to the prevention of premature aging and maintains skin health.
3. Skin Permeation Enhancement: Bisabolol demonstrates the ability to enhance the transdermal delivery of other active ingredients. This property is attributed to its lipophilic nature and its potential to disrupt the stratum corneum barrier, facilitating increased absorption.

Applications in Cosmetic Formulations

Bisabolol’s versatility allows for its incorporation into a wide range of cosmetic products:

• Sensitive Skin Formulations: Its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for products targeting sensitive, reactive, or irritated skin, such as in hypoallergenic moisturizers and cleansers.
• Anti-aging Products: The antioxidant activity of bisabolol contributes to the prevention of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots, making it a valuable addition to anti-aging serums and creams.
• Acne Treatments: Bisabolol’s anti-inflammatory effects can help to reduce redness and inflammation associated with acne lesions. It can be found in spot treatments, cleansers, and masks formulated for acne-prone skin, often in combination with other actives like salicylic acid or tea tree oil.
• After-Sun Care: Its calming and skin-regenerating properties make it beneficial in after-sun products to soothe and repair sun-damaged skin. It can be combined with hydrating and cooling ingredients like aloe vera or hyaluronic acid in lotions and gels.

Formulation Considerations

• Solubility: Bisabolol is oil-soluble and can be readily incorporated into oil phases of emulsions or anhydrous formulations.
• Stability: It exhibits good stability in a wide range of pH values and temperatures, making it compatible with various formulation types. However, it’s essential to consider potential interactions with other ingredients, such as strong oxidizing agents, which could affect its stability.
• Concentration: Typical usage levels range from 0.1% to 1%, depending on the desired effect and product type. Higher concentrations may be used in specific applications, such as spot treatments for acne.
• Incorporation: Bisabolol is typically added to the oil phase of emulsions or during the cool-down phase of anhydrous formulations to prevent degradation.

Regulatory Aspects

Bisabolol is widely accepted for use in cosmetics and is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by regulatory bodies. However, it is crucial to adhere to regional regulations and guidelines regarding its usage and labeling. For example, the European Union Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 restricts the use of certain allergenic fragrances that may be present in natural bisabolol sources, requiring careful sourcing and quality control.

Conclusion

Bisabolol is a valuable ingredient for cosmetic formulators seeking to develop efficacious and well-tolerated products. Its diverse properties, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin permeation enhancing effects, make it a versatile tool for addressing a wide range of skincare concerns. Whether sourced naturally or synthetically, bisabolol offers significant benefits for maintaining and improving skin health.

Why Retinol Prevailed Initially

Despite the advantages of retinaldehyde, retinol historically dominated the skincare market due to several factors:

• Stability: Retinol esters, like retinyl palmitate, are generally more stable and easier to formulate than the more reactive retinaldehyde.
• Irritation: Retinaldehyde can be more irritating, especially initially, making consumers and formulators hesitant.
• Familiarity and Research: Retinol boasts a longer history of research and use, building trust and familiarity.
• Cost: Retinol has traditionally been more cost-effective to produce.

However, advancements in formulation technology and a deeper understanding of retinoid benefits have brought retinaldehyde to the forefront, showcasing its potential as a superior alternative.

Chemical Structure and Properties

Retinaldehyde, chemically known as retinal or vitamin A aldehyde, appears as a yellow to orange crystalline powder. It dissolves readily in organic solvents but not in water. Its molecular structure features a conjugated polyene chain with an aldehyde functional group, contributing to its reactivity and biological activity.

Retinol, in contrast, is an alcohol form of vitamin A, with a hydroxyl group replacing retinaldehyde’s aldehyde group. This seemingly minor structural difference influences their conversion pathways and biological activities.

Conversion to Retinoic Acid: The Key to Efficacy

Both retinaldehyde and retinol are precursors to retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A responsible for their skin benefits. However, the conversion process differs significantly:

• Retinaldehyde: Requires only one enzymatic step, catalyzed by retinaldehyde dehydrogenases (RALDH), to transform into retinoic acid.
• Retinol: Needs two enzymatic steps. First, alcohol dehydrogenases (ADH) convert it to retinaldehyde, which is then further converted to retinoic acid by RALDH.

This single-step conversion gives retinaldehyde a significant advantage in terms of speed and efficacy, potentially delivering results faster and at lower concentrations compared to retinol.

Factors Influencing Conversion

Several factors can influence the efficiency of these conversion pathways:

• Enzyme Availability: The abundance and activity of ADH and RALDH enzymes in the skin can vary based on individual factors like age, genetics, and environmental influences.
• Formulation: The type of retinoid used, its concentration, and the delivery system employed can impact its penetration and conversion.
• Skin Condition: The overall health and condition of the skin, including factors like inflammation and barrier function, can influence enzyme activity and conversion rates.

The Importance of Conversion

Conversion to retinoic acid is crucial because it is the active form that interacts with retinoid receptors within skin cells, known as retinoic acid receptors (RAR) and retinoid X receptors (RXR). These receptors regulate gene expression, influencing various cellular processes, including cell growth, differentiation, and inflammation. Without conversion to retinoic acid, retinoids would not be able to exert their full range of benefits on the skin.

This conversion process primarily occurs within the skin cells themselves, after the retinoid has penetrated the epidermis. While some conversion may occur in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, the majority takes place in the deeper layers, where the retinoid receptors are located.

Mechanisms of Action and Effects on Skin

Retinoids exert their multifaceted effects on skin through various mechanisms:

• Cellular Differentiation and Proliferation: Retinoids regulate the differentiation and proliferation of keratinocytes, promoting a healthy skin barrier and contributing to improved skin texture, reduced hyperpigmentation, and smoother skin tone.
• Collagen and Elastin Synthesis: By stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, retinoids help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin elasticity and firmness.
• Sebum Regulation: Retinoids normalize sebum production, making them effective in managing acne by preventing excess oiliness and clogged pores.
• Anti-inflammatory Activity: Retinoids possess anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and reducing redness.

Additional Benefits

Research suggests that retinoids may also offer additional benefits:

• Wound Healing: Retinoids can accelerate wound healing by promoting cell proliferation and migration, and by modulating inflammation.
• Antioxidant Activity: Some retinoids exhibit antioxidant properties, protecting skin cells from free radical damage.
• Pigmentation Control: Retinoids can help regulate melanin production, reducing hyperpigmentation and promoting a more even skin tone.

Comparative Analysis: Retinaldehyde vs. Retinol

While retinaldehyde may have a higher potential for initial irritation, its faster conversion and higher potency can translate to quicker and more noticeable results. Retinol, on the other hand, is generally gentler but may require a longer period to achieve comparable effects.

Formulation Specifics: Retinol and Retinaldehyde

Formulating with retinoids presents unique challenges due to their instability and potential for irritation. Overcoming these challenges requires careful consideration of various factors:

Stability

• Oxidation: Both retinol and retinaldehyde are susceptible to oxidation. Formulations often incorporate antioxidants, such as vitamin E or C, to protect them.
• Light and Heat: Exposure to light and heat can accelerate degradation. Packaging plays a crucial role in preserving stability, with opaque containers and airless pumps being preferred.
• pH: Retinol is more stable in slightly acidic to neutral pH, while retinaldehyde prefers a slightly alkaline environment.

Delivery Systems

• Encapsulation: Encapsulating retinoids in liposomes or nanoparticles can enhance their stability, penetration, and controlled release, reducing irritation.
• Emulsions: Water-in-oil emulsions tend to provide better protection against oxidation for retinoids.

Other Formulation Considerations

• Concentration: The concentration of retinoid used must be balanced with its stability and potential for irritation.
• Supporting Ingredients: Incorporating soothing and hydrating ingredients, such as ceramides or hyaluronic acid, can help mitigate irritation.
• Preservatives: Choosing appropriate preservatives is crucial, but some can interact with retinoids and compromise their stability.

Specific Challenges with Retinaldehyde

• Higher Reactivity: Retinaldehyde is inherently more reactive than retinol, making it more challenging to formulate with.
• Sensitivity to pH: Maintaining a slightly alkaline pH for retinaldehyde can be challenging while ensuring compatibility with other ingredients.
• Potential for Irritation: Careful formulation and controlled release mechanisms are crucial to minimize irritation.

Overcoming Challenges

Advances in formulation technology, such as encapsulation techniques, novel delivery systems, and the use of stabilizing agents, have enabled the development of more stable and effective retinoid products.

Safety Considerations

Both retinaldehyde and retinol can cause irritation, especially for sensitive skin or those new to retinoids. Starting with a low concentration and gradually increasing frequency is crucial. Using emollients and moisturizers can help mitigate irritation. Daily use of sunscreen is essential during treatment with either ingredient, as both can increase sun sensitivity.

Potential Side Effects

In addition to irritation, retinoids can cause dryness, redness, peeling, and increased sun sensitivity. These side effects are usually temporary and can be managed with proper skincare and sun protection. However, it is essential to consult with a dermatologist if you experience severe or persistent side effects.

Conclusion

Retinaldehyde and retinol are both valuable ingredients in skincare, offering a range of benefits for skin health and appearance. While retinaldehyde boasts faster conversion and higher potency, retinol is often gentler with a slower onset of action. The choice between the two depends on individual skin needs, tolerance, and desired outcomes. Consulting with a dermatologist can help determine which retinoid is best suited for your individual circumstances.

The Science Behind the Magic: Carbomer Structure and Polymerization

To truly understand the magic of carbomers, we need to delve into their chemical structure. Carbomers belong to a class of polymers known as polyacrylic acids. They are synthesized through the polymerization of acrylic acid monomers, resulting in high-molecular-weight molecules with numerous carboxyl groups (-COOH) along their backbone. These carboxyl groups are the key to the thickening action of carbomers.

Neutralization and Hydration: Unfurling the Thickening Power

In their dry, powdered state, carbomer molecules exist in a tightly coiled conformation due to hydrogen bonding between the carboxyl groups. However, when dispersed in water, these hydrogen bonds are disrupted, and the carboxyl groups begin to ionize. The ionization process is significantly enhanced by the addition of a base, such as sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine. The base neutralizes the acidic carboxyl groups, forming carboxylate anions (-COO⁻).

The formation of these negatively charged carboxylate groups along the polymer chain leads to electrostatic repulsion, causing the carbomer molecule to dramatically unfurl and expand. This expansion, coupled with the hydration of the carboxylate groups and the polymer backbone, results in the formation of a three-dimensional network. This network effectively traps water molecules, leading to a significant increase in the viscosity of the solution, forming a gel.

Rheological Properties: Shear-Thinning Behavior

Carbomer gels exhibit a fascinating property called shear-thinning behavior. This means their viscosity decreases under shear stress. In simpler terms, the gel becomes thinner when you rub it, making it easy to spread and apply. Once the shear stress is removed, the viscosity recovers, and the gel retains its structure.

Factors Influencing Thickening

Several factors influence the thickening efficiency of carbomers:

• Carbomer Concentration: Higher concentrations generally lead to thicker gels.
• Neutralization Degree: The extent of neutralization affects the expansion of the polymer and, consequently, the viscosity.
• pH: The pH of the formulation influences the ionization of carboxyl groups and the gel structure.
• Presence of Electrolytes: Electrolytes can affect the viscosity by influencing the electrostatic interactions within the gel network.

Carbomer Grades: Tailoring Texture

There are various grades of carbomers available, each with slightly different properties, molecular weights, and thickening capabilities. These variations allow formulators to fine-tune the texture and rheology of their products to achieve the desired consistency.

Versatility in Action

Carbomers are incredibly versatile and find their way into a wide range of cosmetic products:

• Gels: From clear hand sanitizers to soothing aloe vera gels, carbomers provide the characteristic thickness and clarity.
• Creams and Lotions: Carbomers help emulsify and stabilize creams and lotions, preventing separation and ensuring a smooth application.
• Hair Products: In hair gels and styling products, carbomers provide hold and structure without leaving hair feeling stiff or sticky.
• Makeup: Carbomers contribute to the texture and stability of foundations, mascaras, and other makeup products.

Benefits Beyond Thickening

Beyond their thickening abilities, carbomers offer several other benefits:

• Sensory Enhancement: They contribute to a pleasant, smooth, and non-greasy skin feel.
• Suspension: Carbomers can suspend insoluble ingredients, like pigments or exfoliants, evenly throughout a product.
• Film-Forming: Some carbomers create a thin, protective film on the skin, enhancing the longevity of the product.

Ceramides are a class of lipids (fats) that are essential components of the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum. They act as a protective barrier, helping to retain moisture and prevent water loss. When ceramide levels decline, the skin’s barrier function weakens, leading to dryness, irritation, and premature aging.

The Ceramide Trio: NP, AP, and EOP

Within the ceramide family, three types are particularly noteworthy: NP, AP, and EOP.

1. Ceramide NP (Non-Polar):
   • Chemical Nature: Long-chain fatty acids linked to sphingosine.
   • Key Role: Forms the lipid bilayer, the fundamental structure of the skin’s barrier.
   • Benefits:
     • Improves skin hydration
     • Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
     • Soothes irritation and inflammation
     • Enhances skin barrier function
2. Ceramide AP (Amino-Polar):
   • Chemical Nature: Contains a polar head group with an amino acid, often linked to fatty acids and sphingosine.
   • Key Role: Strengthens the skin’s barrier by forming hydrogen bonds with other lipids and proteins.
   • Benefits:
     • Improves skin texture and firmness
     • Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
     • Protects against environmental damage
     • Boosts collagen production
3. Ceramide EOP (Ester-Polar):
   • Chemical Nature: Contains a polar head group with an ester bond, often linked to fatty acids and sphingosine.
   • Key Role: Aids in lipid organization and cell differentiation.
   • Benefits:
     • Promotes skin cell turnover
     • Improves skin elasticity
     • Reduces the appearance of scars
     • Soothes sensitive skin

Why Use Ceramides in Skincare?

Ceramides are essential for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. By incorporating ceramide-rich products into your skincare routine, you can:

• Hydrate and Nourish: Ceramides help to lock in moisture, preventing dryness and flakiness.
• Protect Against Environmental Damage: They form a protective barrier against pollutants and UV radiation.
• Reduce Inflammation: Ceramides can soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.
• Improve Skin Texture and Tone: They can help to minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and pores.
• Enhance Skin Barrier Function: A strong skin barrier is essential for overall skin health.

Using Ceramides Together or Alone?

While each type of ceramide offers unique benefits, using a combination of NP, AP, and EOP ceramides in your skincare products can provide optimal results. This synergistic approach can help to address a wide range of skin concerns, from dryness and sensitivity to aging and environmental damage.

When choosing ceramide-based products, look for formulations that contain a blend of these three ceramides. Additionally, consider other ingredients that complement ceramides, such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides.

By understanding the role of ceramides in skin health, you can make informed choices about your skincare products and achieve a more radiant, youthful complexion.

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream is a popular skincare product marketed as a barrier-restoring moisturizer for normal to dry skin. It boasts a simple, fragrance-free formulation designed to hydrate and protect the skin.

Ingredient Analysis

Oil Phase:

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: A light, non-greasy emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin.
• Petrolatum: A well-known occlusive ingredient that forms a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, preventing moisture loss.
• Dimethicone: A silicone-based emollient that provides a silky feel and helps to reduce water loss.
• Ceramides NP, AP, and EOP: These are essential lipids that help to repair and strengthen the skin’s barrier. They can be sourced from various suppliers, including Evonik and BASF.

Aqueous Phase:

• Glycerin: A humectant that draws moisture from the air and into the skin.
• Sodium Hyaluronate: A form of hyaluronic acid, a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water.
• Phytosphingosine: A lipid that can help to strengthen the skin’s barrier.

Emulsifiers and Stabilizers:

• Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20: These alcohols are emulsifiers that help to blend the oil and water phases of the formulation.
• Carbomer: A polymer used as a thickening agent and stabilizer.
• Xanthan Gum: Another polymer used as a thickening agent and stabilizer.

Formulation and Technology

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream is a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. This type of emulsion provides a rich, occlusive feel and is ideal for dry skin. The ceramides, petrolatum, and dimethicone work together to create a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, preventing moisture loss. The hyaluronic acid and glycerin help to attract and retain moisture.

The MVE Delivery Technology mentioned by CeraVe is a patented technology that uses multivesicular emulsions to deliver ingredients to the skin over time. These vesicles are designed to release their contents gradually, providing long-lasting hydration.

Claim Analysis

• Barrier-Restoring: The inclusion of ceramides and petrolatum supports this claim. Ceramides are essential components of the skin’s barrier, and petrolatum forms a protective layer on the skin’s surface.
• Non-Greasy, Fast-Absorbing: The use of light emollients like caprylic/capric triglyceride and dimethicone contributes to the non-greasy feel.
• Gentle on Skin: The fragrance-free formulation and the absence of potentially irritating ingredients make this product suitable for sensitive skin.

Conclusion

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream is a well-formulated product that effectively addresses the needs of dry, sensitive skin. The inclusion of ceramides and petrolatum is particularly beneficial for repairing and protecting the skin’s barrier. The MVE Delivery Technology is an innovative approach to providing long-lasting hydration.

While the formulation is relatively simple, it is effective and well-tolerated by most people. It is a good choice for those seeking a gentle, hydrating moisturizer.

This launch is another step of Nivea into sustainability, after the launch of the Naturally Good range in February 2020, promoting 2 main claims on packs :

• naturality : the products are 99% from natural origin, and COSMOS Natural certified
• responsible packaging : no plastic, with recycled paper.

The “zero plastic” / “no plastic” claims appear on 4 of the 6 sides of the pack, which tends to mean that it is the main claim that Nivea wants to promote with this launch.

As detailed below, formulas are natural origin, but Nivea could have gone further, avoiding for example the use of sulfates. Even though 99% natural origin, they still contain synthetic dyes (CI 77891, CI 77007 and CI 77288 in 2 of the four formulas).

As for any big historical player of the cosmetic industry, it is always interesting to see these steps towards more sustainable products. However, one should not forget to put in perspective this “zero plastic” claim with the use of plastic in ALL the rest of the line-up of Nivea. But every step is good to highlight.

Technology & Claims

As highlighted in bold below, the 4 solid cleansers share the same technology, made of Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate and soaps of Palmitic Acid and Stearic Acid with Sodium Hydroxide (i.e. Sodium Palmate and Sodium Stearate).

Sodium Coco-Sulfate is the main surfactant : it is a solid derivative of Coconut Oil, without ethoxylation (unlike Sodium Laureth Sulfate). This gives it a better natural profile. But remains a part of the family of “sulfate” surfactants very discussed by consumer for their supposed harshness. Nivea made the choice to work with sulfates for these new products.

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate is added in the mix. Part of the “glutamate” family of surfactant, based on the L-glutamic acid, a naturally occuring amino-acid. It is very mild for the skin and hair, with very good foaming behavior. Because of its affinity for keratin, it leaves a pleasant feel on the skin. It is an excellent choice for natural oriented cleansers.

Palmitic and Stearic Acid are part of the game. These two ingredients are fatty acids, classically used with a base (Potassium Hydroxide or Sodium Hydroxide) to create a soap molecule (Potassium Palmate/Stearate or Sodium Palmate/Stearate). One will notice the presence in the formula of Sodium Hydroxide, while at the same time Nivea claims “soap free” on the pack of the product. In order to avoid the formation of soap molecules, Nivea has propably played carefully with the pH of the formulas to avoid the formation of soap between Palmitic/Stearic Acid and Sodium Hydroxide. This looks to be confirmed as Nivea claims that this 5 solid cleansers have a “neutral pH”. As Palmitic and Stearic Acid in the formula, these two ingredients provide the “solids” needed to mold the formulas as a bar soap.

Out of these 4 surfactants, Nivea added other ingredients that helps to make the overall formulas milder, like a very soft surfactant sugar-derived (Coco-Glucoside), and refatting agents (Glyceryl Oleate and Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride Citrate).

Naturally Clean Refreshing

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Distarch Phosphate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfate, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Geraniol, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 77007

Naturally Clean Pore Reducing Scrub

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Sulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Betaine, Oryza Sativa Powder, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Kaolin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Geraniol, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 77288

Naturally Clean Soothing

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Distarch Phosphate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate

Naturally Clean Purifying Scrub

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Sulfate, Betaine, Charcoal Powder, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum.

Naturally Clean Brightening

Ingredients :

Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Distarch Phosphate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Betaine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lecithin, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbic Acid, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 77007

The Florena brand

Florena was once the Soviet Germany version of the Western Germany’s Beiersdorf’s Nivea products. Acquired in 2002 by Beiersdorf, the brand is living a new revolution, transformed into the weapon of Beiersdorf to tackle natural cosmetics in Western Europe.

History

In 1852, Waldheimer Parfumerie und Toilettenseifenfabrik, one of the first cosmetics manufacturing companies in Germany, was founded by Pharmacist Adolf Bergmann.

The brand Florena was bord in 1920, used on a talcum powder.

After World War II, being on the east side of Germany, the firm owning Florena was nationalized and renamed “VEB Rosodont-Werke”. In 1950 was launched the Florena skin cream.

From 1965, Florena Creme started to be sold out of Germany’s border, mainly in Eastern Bloc countries and former Soviet Union. Florena was in a way the Nivea brand of the Eastern Bloc.

After the Wall fall down in Berlin, Florena started to cooperate with Beiersdorf (owner of Nivea brand), manufacturing Nivea under license in 1989. In 2002, Beiersdorf bought Florena Cosmetic GmbH : Florena became a brand of Beiersdorf.

To consistently complement its portfolio of brands, and avoid a competition between Nivea and Florena, Beiersdorf repositioned Florena in 2007 with a focus on natural ingredients and formulations.

The Florena Creme

The Florena Creme was a very classic, “universal” skincare product back in Eastern Bloc. Its popularity is such, that it is still commercialized today and competes in some countries with the Nivea Creme. Now both in Beiersdorf portfolio, they are to classic multi-use creams.

Here is below a comparison of the ingredient list of current Nivea Creme and Florena Creme :

Nivea Creme :

Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Glycerin, Lanolin Alcohol, Paraffin, Panthenol, Magnesium Sulfate, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Aluminum Stearates, Citric Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Limonene, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Parfum

Florena Creme :

Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Paraffin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Sulfate, Citronellol, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Geraniol, Parfum

Florena and Nivea Creme share many aspects : both are W/O emulsions, most of the oil phases are similar (Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin). However, their surfactant systems are different : while Nivea Creme mainly relies on Lanolin Alcohol supported with Aluminum and Magnesium stearates, Florena Creme is based on Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, sold by Evonik under the tradename Isolan GI 34. This surfactant fits with the “natural” positioning of Florena brand, as being from natural origin, PEG-free.

Florena formulas today in Eastern market

The existing legacy range in Eastern market of Florena is made of Face care and Hand Care formulas, each of them built around botanicals : apricot kernel oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil and aloe vera. They target dry skins, very dry skins, mature skins, sensitive skins, a provide moisturization, revitalization or anti-wrinkle effect.

They follow formulation guidelines claimed on each formula : no artificial dye, mineral oil, silicones and PEG, and they are vegan (understood as without ingredients from animal origin).

Florena also includes a range of men products.

Just to note that the Florena Creme partially follows these guidelines, as it contains petroleum derived fats (Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Paraffin), and a ingredient from animal origin (Lanolin Alcohol).

Launch of Florena in Western Europe

The line-up

While going to a range of products focused on naturality for Eastern Europe, Beiersdorf streches a lot the Florena brand for its introduction in Western Europe : updated logo, new packaging, new formulas, certifications and strong nature-oriented claims.

The line-up is made of face creams, masks, oils and soap :

• 24h Moisturizing Cream
• 24h Nourishing Cream
• 24h Moisturizing Face Mask
• Regenerating Face Oil Elixir
• Glow Face Oil Elixir
• Dermatological Face Soap

Claims and communication

Above efficiency, Florena is a line of products promoting its naturality. The formulas are compliant with the Cosmos Natural standard, claiming 99% natural origin and vegan formulas. But they are not organic like Garnier or La Provencale are (from L’Oréal Group).

As many natural lines, the efficiency claims remains very simple, without complex details on biological mechanisms : hydrating, nourishing or anti-wrinkle.

Formulas & Technologies

Ingredients lists are provided on Florena’s website, with details on the origin of each ingredient (in French), but not their function, which we are detailing afterwards.

24h Moisturizing Cream

Ingredient list :

Aqua – Eau purifiée
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de coco
Glycerin – Noix de coco / Huile de noix de palme (RSPO) / Graines de colza
Persea Gratissima Oil – Avocat
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – Graines de fruits
Cetearyl Alcohol – Noix de coco
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters – Olives
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate – Diverses huiles végétales
Alcohol Denat – Canne à sucre
Behenyl Alcohol – Graines de colza
Glyceryl Stearate – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Octyldodecanol – Huile de noix de coco
Lactobacillus Ferment – Produit de la fermentation de l’acide lactique
Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’olive fermentée par une levure
Stearyl Alcohol – Huiles végétales
Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate – Fermentation de feuilles de camélia, cacao, fleurs de Trèfle Rouge
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de tournesol
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil – Graines d’argan
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de jojoba
Tocopherol – Soja
Octyldodecyl Oleate – Huile d’olive ou de coco
Glyceryl Undecylenate – Huile de ricin
Glyceryl Caprylate – Huiles végétales
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate – Olive ou huile de coco
Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Xanthan Gum – Cellulose de bois
Polyhydroxystearic Acid – Huile de ricin
Cellulose Gum – Cellulose
Citric Acid – Canne à sucre ou betterave à sucre
Sodium Hydroxide – Agent neutralisant / Origine non végétale
Benzyl Alcohol – Conservateur / Origine non végétale
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de cubeba de Litsea
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

This cream is an O/W emulsion, using Polyglyceryl-2-Stearate as main surfactant, supported by Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol as co-emulsifiers, thickened and stabilized with Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum and Microcristalline Cellulose..

The oil phase is made of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil).

The oil phase contains also :

• Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters : supplied by Sophim under the tradename Phytowax Olive POL16L55, it is a natural wax, sourced from olive oil, presented as an alternative to synthetic waxes and paraffins. It is claimed to have high moisturizing properties, and to provide very soft and smooth textures.

• Inollient LO from DKSH (Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol). This blend is presented by its supplier as liquid mainly composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids displaying hydrophilic groups with high affinity for water molecules. The main benefits provided by innollient LO are the spreadability index and a unique skin feel coupled to a significant improvement of the skin resiliency. From natural origin, it is presented as a natural alternative to volatile silicone (cyclomethicone).
• Fermentoil Olive from LABIO (Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate) : produced on a Korean patented fermentation process initially developed to help clean the waste oil in the ocean, this fermented olive oil is claimed to be reacher in free fatty acid than raw olive oil, with an improved emulsifying capacity. As skin benefit, Fermentoils have an improved anti-oxidative effect, and are sources of linoleic (“omega-6”) and linolenic acid (“omega-3”).

The water phase contains Glycerin, and several botanicals and extracts linked to fermentation : Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate (fermented leafs of Camelia, Cocoa and Clover).

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Alcohol Denat., Glyceryl Undecylenate, Glyceryl Caprylate and Benzyl Alcohol. A blend of Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl Undecylenate can be found at Inolex under the tradename Lexgard Natural MB. Glyceryl Caprylate (C8 acid) is claimed to have bacteriostatic activity on bacteria and yeast, while Glyceryl Undecylenate (C11 acid) is active on fungus.

24h Nourishing Cream

Ingredient list :

Aqua – Eau purifiée
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de coco
Glycerin – Noix de coco / Huile de noix de palme (RSPO) / Graines de colza
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil – Amandes douces
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – Graines de fruits
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – Noix de coco et huile de palme (RSPO)
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate – Diverses huiles végétales
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil – Olives
Behenyl Alcohol – Graines de colza
Glyceryl Stearate – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Lactobacillus Ferment – Produit de la fermentation de l’acide lactique
Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’olive fermentée par une levure
Stearyl Alcohol – Huiles végétales
Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate – Fermentation de feuilles de Camélia, Cacao, fleurs de Trèfle Rouge
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil – Olives
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de Jojoba
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil – Graines de Fruit de la Passion
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de Tournesol
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables – Olives
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides – Huile de palme (RSPO)
Tocopherol – Soja
Glyceryl Caprylate – Huiles végétales
Glyceryl Undecylenate – Huile de Ricin
Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Xanthan Gum – Cellulose de boisCellulose Gum – Cellulose de bois
Citric Acid – Canne à sucre ou Betterave à sucre
Sodium Hydroxide – Agent neutralisant / Origine non végétale
Benzyl Alcohol – Conservateur / Origine non végétale
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de cubeba de Litsea
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

The structure of the formula is the same as for the 24h Moisturizing Cream, except for the oil phase, enriched with different and heavier fats, to make is more nourishing. The oil phase of the 24h Nourishing Cream is thus made of : Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), Jojoba Seed Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), Passion Fruit Seed Oil (Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides.

24h Moisturizing Face Mask

Ingredient list :

Aqua – Eau purifiée
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de Coco
Glycerin – Noix de Coco / Huile de noix de Palme (RSPO) / Graines de Colza
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil – Amandes douces
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter – Graines de fruits
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – Noix de Coco et Huile de noix de Palme (RSPO)
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate – Diverses huiles végétales
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides – Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil – Olives
Behenyl Alcohol – Graines de Colza
Glyceryl Stearate – Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Lactobacillus Ferment – Produit de la fermentation de l’acide lactique Microcrystalline Cellulose – Cellulose de bois
Pseudozyma Epicola/Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’Olive fermentée par une levure
Stearyl Alcohol – Huiles végétales
Lactobacillus/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Clover Flower/Cocoa Flower Ferment Filtrate – Fermentation de feuilles de Camélia, Cacao, fleurs de Trèfle Rouge
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil – Olives
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de Jojoba
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil – Graines de Fruit de la Passion
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de Tournesol
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables – Olives
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides – Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Tocopherol – Soja
Glyceryl Caprylate – Huiles végétales
Glyceryl Undecylenate – Huile de Ricin
Xanthan Gum – Cellulose de bois
Cellulose Gum – Cellulose de bois
Citric Acid – Canne à sucre ou Betterave à sucre
Sodium Hydroxide – Agent neutralisant / Origine non végétale
Benzyl Alcohol – Conservateur / Origine non végétale
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de cubeba de Litsea
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

This formula is indentical to the 24h Nourishing Cream, from an ingredient list point of view. Than it could differ in the concentration of some ingredients, to optimize the formulation for a use as a mask.

Regenerating Face Oil Elixir

Ingredient list

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de Coco
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil – Graines de Macadamia
Dicaprylyl Ether – Noix de Coco
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate – Huile de Noix de Coco et Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil – Abricot
Pseudozyma Epicola/Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Ferment Filtrate – Huile d’Argan et autres huiles végétales fermentées par une levure
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil – Graines d’Argan
Pseudozyma Epicola/Apricot Kernel Oil/Olive Fruit Oil/Sunflower Seed Oil/Sweet Almond Oil/Panax Ginseng Root – Ginseng rouge et autres huiles végétales fermentées par une levure
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil – Graines de Fruit de la Passion
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de Tournesol
Xerochrysum Bracteatum Flower – Fleurs d’immortelle
Tocopherol – Soja
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de Litsea Cubeba
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

This formula is an anhydrous liquid, mainly made of a blend of natural origin (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Dicaprylyl Ether, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate) and natural oils (Macadamia, Apricot, Argan, Passiflora, Sunflower).

It contains the fermented oils (including the fermented Argan oil, claimed on this product), star ingredients of the Florena range. It also contains dry petals of Everlasting flower (Xerochrysum Bracteatum Flower), a very trendy (yet only aesthetical) feature used at the moment by cosmetic manufacturer to reinforce the naturality of a product.

Radiance Face Oil Elixir

Ingredient list

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Noix de Coco
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil – Graines de Macadamia
Dicaprylyl Ether – Noix de Coco
Persea Gratissima Oil – Avocat
Pseudozyma Epicola/Safflower Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate – Carthame fermenté par une levure
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – Graines de Jojoba
Pseudozyma Epicola/Apricot Kernel Oil/Olive Fruit Oil/Sweet Almond Oil/Sunflower Seed Oil/Licorice Root Extract Ferment Extract Filtrate – Huile de graines de tournesol et autres huiles végétales fermentées par une levure
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – Graines de tournesol
Xerochrysum Bracteatum Flower – Fleurs d’immortelle
Dicaprylyl Carbonate – Noix de Coco et Huile de Palme (RSPO)
Tocopherol – Soja
Methyl Benzoate – Ingrédient du parfum /composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’ylang ylang
Linalool – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de coriandre
Citral – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de Litsea cubeba
Benzyl Salicylate – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal des huiles essentielles d’ylang ylang et de géranium
Limonene – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle d’orange
Citronellol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de géranium (pelargonium graveolens)
Eugenol – Ingrédient du parfum / composant principal de l’huile essentielle de feuille de clou de girofle
Parfum – Parfum d’origine naturelle

Similar formula as previous one, the difference being on the claimed fermented oil, the Safflower Fermented Oil.

With the launch of Plant Gold / L’Or des Plantes, Clarins associates several innovative and challenging technologies to answer trendy needs of consumers. The formula is from natural origin. While the oil is an existing product, the emulsion is a new formula, made with natural origin emulsifiers, natural origin polymers, and apreservative system without phenoxyethanol or other questionned preservatives. Clarins chose the innovative Neomix from Aptar, a dual chamber pump dispenser, fitting with the idea to offer to consumer a product inspired from Clarins spa rituals. The mix is interesting, but the “reason why” is not at its full potential. If Clarins wanted to offer the same approach as in Clarins spa rituals and customization of skin care, it could have used the whole possibilities of Aptar Neomix. Indeed, Neomix was develop to work with several cartridges to insert in the main pack to finalize the customization of the formula. This was not the choice of Clarins, maybe to avoid complexity.

Claims & Communication

With Plant Gold / L’Or des Plantes Oil-Emulsion, Clarins is not looking for ultra-edgy efficacy but rather offer to the market a natural origin face care with reliable classic benefits, like nourishing, skin feel, radiance. Clarins Plant Gold / L’Or des Plantes is part of the Aromaphytocare range, a range of “face and body oils combining aromatic essential oils and plant extracts”. With new addition to the Aromaphytocare range, Clarins offer to its consumers a more classic product (a cream), while sticking to the “oil” concept thanks to the dual-chamber pack, highlighting the presence of the “blue orchid oil” in the product.

In terms of efficacy, the formula supports the following claims, based on satisfaction tests of 110 women, upon application (*) or after 15 days of application (**) :

• 94% Skin is immediately nourished*
• 92% Skin is immediately comfortable*
• 92% Fine and lightweight texture**
• 82% Radiant skin**
• 82% More toned skin**
• 81% Revitalized skin**
• 81% Natural scent brings a feeling of well-being**

A satisfaction test is a questionnaire provided to a panel of people (here 110 women). Depending on their answers to this questionnaire, % of satisfaction are calculated to support claims. This way of supporting claims is very common in personal care, usually complemented with instrumental measurement (i.e. measures made on skin with machines), for evaluation the moisturizing or anti-wrinkle benefits of a cream.

Clarins also communicates on sustainability through the Aromaphytocare line up, but no highlight specifically related to Plant Gold launch. There is a communication, but not obviously embeded in the Plant Gold launch. Clarins lists some commitments they are taking :

• chosing glass over plastic for recyclability reasons (unfortunately… L’Or des Plantes / Plant Gold is a pure plastic packaging…)
• use of carton from responsible sourcing
• As Clarins is all about plant extracts, they have several commitments to respect biodiversity and source responsibly their actives.

Technology

Formula

Here is the ingredient list of L’Or des Plantes / Plant Gold :

AQUA/WATER/EAU, CORYLUS AVELLANA (HAZEL) SEED OIL, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, MACAMIA INTERGRIFOLIA SEED OIL, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL, PROPANEDIOL, POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE, VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL, GLYCERYL STEARATE SE, POGOSTEMON CABLIN OIL, LEVULINIC ACID, XANTHAN GUM, CHONDRUS CRISPUS (CARRAGEENAN), GAULTHERIA PROCUMBENS (WINTERGREEN) LEAF EXTRACT, P-ANISIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, TOCOPHEROL, POLYGLYCERYL-6 BEHENATE, LINALOOL, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, GLYCERIN, SODIUM LEVULINATE, LIMONENE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, PHYTIC ACID, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (ROSEMARY) LEAF EXTRACT, EUGENOL, COUMARIN, VANDA COERULEA EXTRACT.

As explained by Clarins, L’Or des Plantes / Plant Gold is a “2-in-1 Oil-Emulsion housed in an innovative dual-chamber bottle blends together the perfect balance of Clarins’ iconic Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil and a melting lotion”. As the finished formula delivered by the packaging is a blend of both oil and emulsion, the INCI list is the sum of both.

The Oil

However, the oil within one of the chambers is the Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil. Here is its ingredients list below. In yellow, the ingredients from the oil that appear in L’Or des Plantes / Plant Gold formula.

CORYLUS AVELLANA (HAZEL) SEED OIL, POGOSTEMON CABLIN OIL, LINALOOL, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, LIMONENE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, EUGENOL, COUMARIN, CITRAL, TOCOPHEROL, VANDA COERULEA EXTRACT.

This oil is a blend of natural oils : Hazel oil, Patchouli (Pogostemon Cablin) oil and Sunflower oil, and an extract of Blue Orchid (Vanda Coerulea).

The Emulsion

As a consequence, the rest of the ingredients are used in the second formula of L’Or des Plantes : the emulsion.

More precisely, it is a O/W emulsion, based on Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as surfactants, supported as thickeners and stabilizer by Xanthan Gum and Carrageenan (Chondrus Crispus).

The association of Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate could correspond to Evonik Tegocare PBS 6, claimed to be “a versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifier based on fully renewable sources and is natural certified”.

The oil phase is made of Coco-caprylate/caprate, Macadamia oil (Macadamia Intergrifolia seed oil), Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Oil), Grape seed oil (Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil).

The water phase contains Glycerin and two botanical extracts : an extract of Wintergreen leaf (Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract) and an extract of Rosemary leaf (Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract).

The pH of the formula is adjusted with Sodium Hydroxide. The emulsion is protected against microbiological growth with Propanediol, Levulinic Acid / Sodium Levulinate, P-Anisic Acid and Phytic Acid.

Packaging

For the launch of Plant Gold / L’Or des Plantes, Clarins collaborated with Aptar, a supplier of packagings for personal care industry. Clarins used Aptar Neomix, a new dual chamber pump dispenser.

Clarins claims this choice was made to offer to consumers the same appoach of blending natural oils and creams as its spa aestheticians do in Clarins spas.

However, Clarins is not using the full potential of Neomix, and does not completely offer the Clarins customized spa experience with L’Or des Plantes. This would have been an added innovation to implement with this launch.

Indeed, L’Or des Plantes is sold “ready made” with a chamber with a cream, and a chamber with the Blue Orchid Oil. Neomix is designed and promoted by Aptar to offer customization to the consumer, through the possibility to click-in a cartridge chosen out of several :

Glyceryl Stearate SE is a non-ionic emulsifier, stabilizer, with excellent skin compatibility. It is monoester of stearic acid and glycerin, with the addition of a small amount of Potassium or Sodium Stearate to make it Self Emulsifying (“SE”). It has an HLB value of 5.8, which makes it suitable to prepare Oil in Water (O/W) emulsions.

Glyceryl Stearate SE is produced by reacting an excess of stearic acid with glycerin. The excess stearic acid is then reacted with potassium and/or sodium hydroxide yielding a product that contains Glyceryl Stearate as well as potassium stearate and/or sodium stearate.

It can be used as emulsifier, co-emulsifier (i.e. associated to another emulsifier), and also acts as a stabilizer and thickener for O/W emulsions.

It is used in many natural / natural origin / organic formulations when made from natural / natural origin / organic raw materials.