tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11338819540380086882024-02-18T21:03:10.014-05:00O! Jolly! Crafting FashionHow to cut and sew sweater knits - garment industry methods transformed and reworked for sewing at home. Online course "How to Cut and Sew a Sweaters" opens again for registration soon!O. Jollyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05356242657508306170noreply@blogger.comBlogger194125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-12824123824768889832023-06-02T12:02:00.009-04:002023-07-01T11:37:52.093-04:00Where to Find Sweater Knit Fabrics Now<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/product/butterscotch-pucker-sweater-knit-bundle" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://assets.bigcartel.com/product_images/330470013/ojolly-washsq-butter+all3-2022-01-22+13.39.04-1280-98.jpg?auto=format&fit=max&w=1200" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Today I'm officially announcing that I'm no longer selling sweater knit yardage. At the same time I wish to express my gratitude for your continued interest in my products. While I had previously specialized in providing yardage for sewing enthusiasts, I have shifted my focus to teaching and providing custom knit fabrics and kits. I do enjoy the occasional special knitting project!</p><p>Interestingly, I recently received a letter from Rita, a former hand knitter, who expressed a keen interest in exploring alternative methods for creating sweaters, as she is no longer able to hand knit. Specifically, she inquired about finding suitable fabrics and resources for the cut and sew method. Her email and my announcement prompted me to write this brief post on sources of sweater knits. I hope you'll find it helpful.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Fabrics for Sweaters</h3><p>If you're cutting and sewing your first sweater, I highly recommend checking thrift stores for old sweaters. Cutting and sewing an old sweater will help you build confidence when becoming comfortable with this unstable fabric. Also by repurposing old sweaters, you can save money and reduce waste.</p><p>If you're looking for new fabric or have something particular in mind, fashion fabric stores will usually have knits, but sometimes true sweater knits are difficult to find. Here are some online sources of sweater knits:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://shop.eaglefabrics.com/search?q=sweater+knits" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Eagle Fabrics</a> (US) — Made in Los Angeles. Beautiful, high quality classics currently in 100% cotton and blends.</li><li><a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics/stretch-and-knits/sweater-knit" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Mood fabrics</a> (US) — Caution! I see some printed knits listed in this category. Be sure to request a swatch before purchasing.</li><li><a href="http://emmaonesock.com/fabrics/sweaterknits.asp?c=36">Emma OneSock</a> (US) - A wide selection of natural, synthetic, and blends, the stock changes often. Find some gems here.</li><li><a href="https://www.dittofabrics.co.uk/wool-and-wool-mixture-fabric/knitted-wool-dress-fabric">Ditto Fabrics</a> (UK) - Nice selection of wool blend sweater knits. Please note “washed wool” and “double layer” fabrics may behave more like standard knits or woven fabrics.</li><li><a href="https://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/">Fabric Godmother</a> (UK) - Search for “chunky knit” using the Search field (in upper right corner). I could be wrong, but few woven fabrics pop up with the sweater knits.</li></ul><h3 style="text-align: left;">Something Special</h3><p>If you're looking for something that can't be found in the shops, I'm <a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/contact" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">happy to chat with you</a> about it. Perhaps it's something I can help you with.</p><p>And what about Rita? I'm happy to report Rita is a new enrollee in <a href="https://workshop.ojolly.net/?preview=logged_out" target="_blank">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a> course with the e-book. Her sweater making adventures have begun once again. She was a very creative hand knitter. I know she'll create something special.</p><p><i>O!</i></p>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-23645535703234217122020-11-02T18:23:00.003-05:002021-02-08T19:49:28.939-05:00The Power of Steam<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KRgvpg0tfk27t_Pkj7th_xYiBmieeO2_oTfbjP2vH_gjUvp8JlswOHupxCOW0VOsPMPZz9R3qtZwum-ryLuJEqA-6FzGY3uyf5DKmq0tVMCqmkb_QS83RexpNzt6LvuraDX9mkafCsM/s800/ojolly_screenshot_steam_800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="433" data-original-width="800" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KRgvpg0tfk27t_Pkj7th_xYiBmieeO2_oTfbjP2vH_gjUvp8JlswOHupxCOW0VOsPMPZz9R3qtZwum-ryLuJEqA-6FzGY3uyf5DKmq0tVMCqmkb_QS83RexpNzt6LvuraDX9mkafCsM/w640-h346/ojolly_screenshot_steam_800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>There's an idea floating around the internet that you can prepare sweater knit fabric for cutting and sewing by first starching and ironing the fabric. I'm pretty sure this would change the hand and drape of the most sweater knits in some way, and I'm here to encourage you to never ever iron your sweater knits.</div><div><br /></div><div>You may have noticed that I always use the word "steam" and never "press" throughout any blog posts on sewing with sweater knits. Simple steam does wonders for your natural fiber sweater as you construct it, but please never press or apply the weight of the iron to any sweater knit. And never let a hot iron directly touch synthetic sweater knit. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Fiber Content of Sweater Knits</b></div><div><span id="docs-internal-guid-ff06e330-7fff-3aa0-3d66-84aded41190a"><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kZr_b49wY1EQcGCqBJt4nCbclbLZQuHN01jnbc_v_k1_KD-de34qMe4Lmumycn-vMq8LX2mqqcRMOKsB9ovRA4GL4uIIosCULsr1kK4BcS2lF06g5mzQDvL_G-6aY0k2TknMrcuLVvQ/s600/OJ_ojolly-cream-tan-scraps-2019-04-04+11.59.47-600x248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="600" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kZr_b49wY1EQcGCqBJt4nCbclbLZQuHN01jnbc_v_k1_KD-de34qMe4Lmumycn-vMq8LX2mqqcRMOKsB9ovRA4GL4uIIosCULsr1kK4BcS2lF06g5mzQDvL_G-6aY0k2TknMrcuLVvQ/w640-h264/OJ_ojolly-cream-tan-scraps-2019-04-04+11.59.47-600x248.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Always check the fiber content of your sweater knit fabric. My preference is for 100% natural fiber, but do look for a fabric that’s at least 55% cotton or 55% wool (the more natural fiber, the better). Though they may be harder to find, linen and silk are great natural sweater knits too. Here’s the reason: You’ll use a considerable amount of steam in the construction of your sweater, and knits that are primarily synthetic fiber don’t hold up well under lots of steam. They lose shape and recovery and will sometimes melt if a hot iron touches them!</div><div><br /></div><div><b>How to Steam Your Sweater Knits</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Hold your iron a half inch above your fabric and allow the steam to do most of the work. The half-inch rule applies to natural fiber fabrics only. If you’re using a fabric with a high synthetic content, hold your iron about 2 inches above your fabric when applying steam. Let the fabric dry before moving on to the next piece. And never iron. That is, don't allow the iron to rest on a sweater knit fabric. Do not push the iron back and forth on the fabric. Do not press. Do not allow the iron to rest on the sweater knit. </div><div><br /></div><div>Whew! That’s a lot of don’ts! But there’s the exception, and it’s for natural fiber fabrics only. Keep reading.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Pressing When Using Fusibles</b></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUCV3GGHMGYWFGHq4jIUR2mxS0yIH1gqQKI8GNXz0vmXuqgA2SflMKiU5w2i3GyG6xzIh1izpwMQG9mwF1IeZc6L1mbxd2ykC3b_wCL8xdBchyphenhyphend0hMoRUQOFQD1KLk-kG6ZX_zh9MEFk8/s640/OJ_steaming800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="640" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUCV3GGHMGYWFGHq4jIUR2mxS0yIH1gqQKI8GNXz0vmXuqgA2SflMKiU5w2i3GyG6xzIh1izpwMQG9mwF1IeZc6L1mbxd2ykC3b_wCL8xdBchyphenhyphend0hMoRUQOFQD1KLk-kG6ZX_zh9MEFk8/w640-h360/OJ_steaming800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></div><div><span><br /></span></div>As I mention above, the only time you need to press is when using a fusible stabilizer. Again, this application is about the only time I'll actually press any area of a sweater knit. Pressing is necessary when using a fusible stabilizer, for example when <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2016/10/stabilizing-cardigan-sweaters.html">stabilizing cardigan sweaters</a>, or <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2013/03/stabilizing-shoulders.html">stabilizing shoulder seams</a>, or <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2016/03/the-little-things-folded-knit-hem-tape.html">hems</a>. By pressing only the sewing line and seam or hem allowance, the iron won't spoil the beauty of the natural fabric. Remember this is pressing, not ironing. That is, I don't use a back and forth motion with the iron. It's press, hold (for the required number of seconds on the fusible product label), lift, and move to the next section. Always test on a scrap first. Again, this method is suggested for natural fabrics only! You'll need to sew in transparent elastic or another stabilizer if working with synthetics and many synthetic blends.</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><b>
Using Steam with Spray Starch </b><div>Is your fabric particularly stretchy and unstable? Is it making you nervous? Spray it liberally with spray starch and then steam it well (following the directions in the How to Steam Your Sweater Knits section above). Allow the fabric to dry before cutting. The fabric will be a little stiff as you work, but that's ok. The starch comes out in the wash. Be sure you test this method on a scrap first! </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Finishing Your Sweater with Steam </b></div><div>There’s nothing like a good steaming to improve the look of your finished sweater. In fact, I don’t consider any sweater finished until it’s steamed. As you worked, your sweater was stretched out of shape to a certain extent. A good steaming will help the fabric recover. If you don’t have a large work area, steam one small section at a time and allow the area to dry before moving on to the next section. Just as you steamed before, allow the steam to penetrate the fabric. Use your free hand to shape the sweater into place. </div><div><br /></div><div>Steam is your friend and will help you create a well-executed, self-sewn sweater. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you're interested in more tips and my step-by-step instructions for cutting and sewing a sweater that fits you perfectly, please sign up for my <a href="http://workshop.ojolly.net/p/how-to-cut-and-sew-a-sweater" target="_blank">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a> course may be just right for you.</div><div><br /></div><div><i>O!</i></div><div><br /></div>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-62300507004496648412020-07-29T22:46:00.003-04:002020-08-21T14:20:26.841-04:00Eye Candy for Sweater Lovers<i>As I write this in late July 2020 and with the Covid-19 pandemic still present, it's no surprise that SpinExpo New York, usually held this month, has been postponed. The event usually has 3 locations at various times of the year. Though Shanghai SpinExpo is still scheduled for September, the Paris event is currently listed with "New dates coming later".</i><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i>Last time I attended was July 2018 for the Fall/Winter 2019 season. These fabrics still inspire. Below was my report, originally published in August 2018. Added commentary is below the original post.</i></div><div><i><br /></i>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTrTZomnEtQ0t_tSSAYyainQ-30a8huhEYuEMPZjGigCPMlWWMSMGYUUhJmpFpGIvhj-BBbTZV9RxfZz3ptob1D23NBNcjSuBlwh5HFIpYZTkxv_KHQSvEVPcakQHZF2V-uZirmGSrQk/s1600/SE2018-07-19+15.36.56-640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Knitted swatch" border="0" data-original-height="896" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTrTZomnEtQ0t_tSSAYyainQ-30a8huhEYuEMPZjGigCPMlWWMSMGYUUhJmpFpGIvhj-BBbTZV9RxfZz3ptob1D23NBNcjSuBlwh5HFIpYZTkxv_KHQSvEVPcakQHZF2V-uZirmGSrQk/w456-h640/SE2018-07-19+15.36.56-640.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
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Last month I attended a yarn industry event called <a href="http://www.spinexpo.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/spinexplore_mag_paris_ny-min.pdf" target="_blank">SpinExpo New York</a>. According to their site, it’s “the leading international industry sourcing exhibition dedicated to innovation in yarns, fiber, and knitwear.” 93% of the exhibitors were from Asia, with the remainder divided evenly between Europe and the US. <br />
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Even though I use US yarns exclusively and have my fabrics knitted locally (New York City area), I like to attend the expo every now and then. While I like seeing the new yarns, I mostly enjoy the Trends area. It's full of interesting swatches knitted from the yarns on exhibit.<br />
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This year was particularly fun because I met up with friend, textile artist, and fiberart fabricator Sahara Briscoe. Her body of work is diverse. You can learn more about Sahara and her work on her website <a href="https://superstringtheorydesign.com/" target="_blank">Super String Theory Design</a> and in this <a href="http://www.knittycitynyc.com/blog/2/24/2017-sahara-briscoe" target="_blank">essay on the Knitty City blog</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42_4z-82gfe3KR7IliNLbLPQktbFuoY_IWYRtspwCS5VIl9pEbHQQrg-seG9k9iWIbTW3uc7nqINazvLhfrmSEpT7HwqzadbR6g2FuK5AG3kNlDf8L90gLilZhtfFu3AALAlrvERwfJM/s1600/SBriscoe-IMG_6593_2.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Blanket by Sahara Briscoe" border="0" data-original-height="241" data-original-width="307" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42_4z-82gfe3KR7IliNLbLPQktbFuoY_IWYRtspwCS5VIl9pEbHQQrg-seG9k9iWIbTW3uc7nqINazvLhfrmSEpT7HwqzadbR6g2FuK5AG3kNlDf8L90gLilZhtfFu3AALAlrvERwfJM/w320-h250/SBriscoe-IMG_6593_2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sahara Briscoe, <i>Toddler Blanket</i>, 47" x 49", wool</td></tr>
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We met at the Brooklyn Expo Center in Greenpoint, Brooklyn on the last day of the event. My favorite fibers shone above all others… because they were metallic! These were the copper fibers of <a href="https://meadowbrookglitter.com/" target="_blank">Meadowbrook Inventions</a> (US)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ6r5Gm2GGn_yRIV1hW5v684F_4RJJ_D16llO81zwwkpcfg7chnCpTpEAqRCRGxf07ufOxqChn9rl_mu0UoDKNKIVUQMDc5PAldvr1HHiwjVKG60RuccLbqi8ex42CyZvRk72QO7osJPA/s1600/meado-copper2018-07-19+14.02.25.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Metallic fiber" border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ6r5Gm2GGn_yRIV1hW5v684F_4RJJ_D16llO81zwwkpcfg7chnCpTpEAqRCRGxf07ufOxqChn9rl_mu0UoDKNKIVUQMDc5PAldvr1HHiwjVKG60RuccLbqi8ex42CyZvRk72QO7osJPA/w480-h640/meado-copper2018-07-19+14.02.25.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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and the metallic yarns of <a href="http://www.kyototex.com/en/">Kyototex</a> (Japan).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOfVGSFEg6DodYYodfZws7aMDciXaBTBSmpZI85d0iIRYhihry6w0cIy3PF6FPZ45PE8bcJcRKVhosK4dXsJEe_gv8IyFb_Vya5jpJOSb4tG3lAs_whXiq0vOv5woKIuTlMHU47-y20I/s1600/kytex-2018-08-09+11.00.46.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Swatches and page from yarn catalog" border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOfVGSFEg6DodYYodfZws7aMDciXaBTBSmpZI85d0iIRYhihry6w0cIy3PF6FPZ45PE8bcJcRKVhosK4dXsJEe_gv8IyFb_Vya5jpJOSb4tG3lAs_whXiq0vOv5woKIuTlMHU47-y20I/w640-h480/kytex-2018-08-09+11.00.46.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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And now my secret is out... I’ve had a love for metallic yarns ever since I first saw pieces knitted with stainless steel at <a href="https://www.moma.org/calendar/exhibitions/228?#installation-images" target="_blank">Structure and Surface: Contemporary Japanese Textiles</a>, way back in 1998 at the Museum of Modern Art!<br />
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But, back to SpinExpo. The name “Trends” implies some sort of fashion forecasting but many of the stitch patterns in these swatches will never make it to a garment. They are complex, expensive, and very slow to knit. But they are always pretty to see, touch, and analyze. Some swatches were nostalgic. They seemed to have emerged directly out of a stitch pattern book from the 80’s. A few were so innovative that neither Sahara nor I could confidently determine the knitting sequences or just how the swatches were knitted.<br />
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Here’s a taste of some of the swatches from Trends. Laura McPherson, I & S Fashion, CKRC Jinlong are credited as stylists for the featured swatches.<br />
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-5875c91f-7fff-e3fb-bfd3-3dc3bf542075"></span><br />___</div><div><br /></div><div>Most of the above swatches were knitted on Stoll or Shima Seiki knitting machines. As a new owner of a Kniterate knitting machine, I'm anxious to see just what I can do with it. I already know it's a whiz with jacquard. I've knitted textures from the sampler, and I'm looking forward to exploring textures more in the next months. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht_fMhGXjO4qEee8bb8bwf0XJf90hoMGHPY_GIsMbkNnzqrRLDywT7QMCZWASOoOA2oWT07CA_ka_xEzSP-as3UKVzHlC92B4mwEixvSMSI9P6X9-rRyZ00K8FfHk8pWTog43bV9U6S9w/s853/scarf2-kniterate-2020-07-29+11.27.48-640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Olgalyn Jolly in front of Kniterate knitting machine" border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht_fMhGXjO4qEee8bb8bwf0XJf90hoMGHPY_GIsMbkNnzqrRLDywT7QMCZWASOoOA2oWT07CA_ka_xEzSP-as3UKVzHlC92B4mwEixvSMSI9P6X9-rRyZ00K8FfHk8pWTog43bV9U6S9w/w480-h640/scarf2-kniterate-2020-07-29+11.27.48-640.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br />If you'd like to keep up with my progress, <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/4f7a4b0091" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">be sure you're on the list</a>. </div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i>O!</i></div><div>
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</div>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-12441717723001573442020-06-21T13:42:00.002-04:002020-06-21T16:27:44.243-04:00Follow Up - Three Practices Used in Ready-to-Wear You Might Not Want to Use At Home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yfLkF9wL2TdMaAwnOind7hOpwoIXwnIZuh6zBAYYd6OaPrnjPIFNCNQIRDaK7m4KCSgjg1YSzxPT7KmCESlSuWWjsJ35NilJlfwQCEspFEkswQ5OWR8jOlizV4HhXfVJ0XT53_JmXDw/s1468/flat_sleeve_attach_lt_bkgd_mini.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1266" data-original-width="1468" height="539" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yfLkF9wL2TdMaAwnOind7hOpwoIXwnIZuh6zBAYYd6OaPrnjPIFNCNQIRDaK7m4KCSgjg1YSzxPT7KmCESlSuWWjsJ35NilJlfwQCEspFEkswQ5OWR8jOlizV4HhXfVJ0XT53_JmXDw/w625-h539/flat_sleeve_attach_lt_bkgd_mini.jpg" width="625" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The last time I sent out a Crafting Fashion email, I included a link to an earlier blog post. I'd written about the ready-to-wear sewing techniques I avoid when I make my own cut and sew sweaters. <div><br /></div><div>A couple of people responded with questions. I answer them in the video below. </div><div><br /></div><div>Please remember one sweater knit is not exactly like another. My advice? Learn as many techniques as you can! With practice you'll truly understand the "why" behind the technique, and you can make the best decision for your particular fabric and project.</div><div><br /></div><div>Any "proven" methods you avoid? Let me know in the comments.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/pTsblyADmRM?controls=0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Original post <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/09/three-practices-used-in-ready-to-wear.html" target="_blank">Three Practices Used in Ready-to-Wear Sweaters You Might Not Want to Use at Home</a></li><li><a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/5d4f3503ab" target="_blank">Join the Crafting Fashion email list</a></li></ul><div><i>O!</i></div></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><i><br /></i></div>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-81681066937480505662020-02-22T17:46:00.001-05:002021-07-03T17:29:22.729-04:00Four Favorite Seam Finishes for Sweater Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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There's more than one? I don't need a serger? These are some of the reactions I sometimes get when I bring up the topic of seam finishes for cut and sewn sweater knits. Regular readers of this blog and students of my <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/27138e34f9">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater course</a> know that you don't always need an overlocker or serger. In fact, though it's quick and neat, an overlocked seam may not be the best finish for your project.<br />
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I don't believe that any one finish is right for everything. Here are my four favorite seam finishes in random order. The best one is the one that works with your project, your time, and your style. None of these methods could work in the garment industry, but they're perfect for sewn sweaters in your handmade wardrobe. Remember each finish must be tested on scrap fabric to get machine settings just right.<br />
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1. The Stretchy Hong Kong Finish</h4>
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I've done <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2019/03/a-stretchy-hong-kong-finish.html">tutorials</a> for this one. The bound seams are neater than the typical overlocked seam and look fabulous on the inside of a cardigan. This seam is created with a home sewing machine.<br />
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Choosing the right binding material is crucial. The binding fabric, cut into strips, is what encloses the seam allowance. It must be lightweight and stretchy. I've used both flyweight cotton rib and a very lightweight linen jersey for this purpose. Both of these fabrics can be somewhat difficult to find and come in a limited range of colors.<br />
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<a href="https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/browse/category/5?cid=26" target="_blank">Stretch mesh</a> is easier to find and is available in a wide range of colors. It also has great recovery, which will keep your seams from stretching out or becoming wavy. One drawback is that synthetic nylon mesh may not work aesthetically with your natural sweater fiber. But as with any of these finishes, you get to decide what the inside of your sweater looks like.<br />
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The Stretchy Hong Kong Finish works well on a cardigan where the insides sometimes show. It takes three passes under the machine to sew this beauty. It's not the finish to use if you're in a hurry.<br />
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2. Overlock with Stretchy Nylon in the Loopers</h4>
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I first <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/07/notes-on-my-completed-cobblestone.html">wrote of this technique</a> awhile back and used it again in a recent project. I had been using Maxi-Lock Stretch textured nylon in the loopers of my serger, which I really like. It plays nicely with my serger, and the thread seems to expand a little in width once it's sewn. It provides a nice coverage on the seam allowance.<br />
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Using it is not very different than using serger thread in the loopers. Machine settings are the same. If you find the look of an overlocked seam allowance acceptable, you’ll be even happier with a seam allowance finished with textured nylon.<br />
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I happen to love when the thread color matches the fabric. But let’s be real: Maxi-Lock Stretch textured nylon thread has only 36 shades, which are not enough. I was less than happy with the color selection when I decided to sew a cardigan in rich <a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/product/wool-textured-washington-square-chocolate-knit-by-the-half-yard">dark chocolate Washington Square fabric</a>. I couldn't find a matching color, and there were no contrasting colors that worked for me. I returned to a technique that I hadn't used in years….<br />
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3. Overlock with Yarn in the Loopers</h4>
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<a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2013/06/yarn-in-loopers.html">This method</a> will only work if you have access to matching yarn, of course. Machine knitters, this technique is for you!<br />
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I've now experimented with this overlock technique with yarn in the upper looper (pictured above), yarn in the lower looper, and yarn in both. Adjusting the looper tension on the serger is key to a successful finish. The best tension is sometimes tricky to adjust and may depend on the texture of the yarn.<br />
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I like the look of all three possibilities of looper yarn threading. After washing, the looper yarn (I've only tried this with wool) really seems to blend in even more with the seam allowance.<br />
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For people who sew sweater knits purchased from a shop, using method 2 with stretchy nylon is a great alternative. Tension adjustment is easier too.<br />
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Both of these overlocking methods can be combined with the next finish.<br />
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4. Catch Stitch to Hold Down the Seam Allowance</h4>
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Used with a hem in <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/08/the-best-hem.html" target="_blank">this example</a>, a catch stitch for a seam allowance must be combined with overlocking either with regular serging thread or specialty thread or yarn. I believe it could even add a little panache if <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2013/06/sewing-sweater-seams-sewing-machine.html">zigzag-and-trim</a> is your seam finish of choice.<br />
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A catch stitch does take time. Whether it's executed with thread, textured nylon, or yarn, the stitch will keep the seam allowance close to the sweater, thereby flattening and neatening a seam allowance that's inadvertently wavy.<br />
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When the catch stitch is sewn with thread, it can be worked as a blind catch stitch, sewn between the seam allowance and the sweater so the stitches don't show. My preference is to sew the catch stitch, so it is visible. A neatly sewn catch stitch with the right contrasting color can make a special and secret design detail.<br />
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These methods are my favorite finishing touches you can use on your self-sewn sweater. I'd love to know which ones you've tried.<br />
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If you'd like more tips about creating well-executed seams on sweater knits, especially when dealing with wavy seams, check out my <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/02/a-roadmap-for-improved-sweater-knit.html">Roadmap for Improved Sweater Knit Seams</a>. Happy seaming!<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-19654398566444534162019-09-23T17:29:00.002-04:002019-09-23T17:29:34.876-04:00Playing with Texture<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail, <i>Waves and Interference</i> stitch pattern, wool</td></tr>
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What happens when you finally decide to clear out the old storage unit? In my case, several cardigans and fabrics created in the '80s slowly get back into circulation. <br />
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Beginning in 1984, I machine knitted a series of jackets and fabrics. I used several techniques, but the ones I'm sharing today I learned from Susanna Lewis. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Clockwise from top left <i>Waves and Interference</i> coat, back of <i>Teal Green Ripple Yoke</i> coat, back of Waves and Interference coat]. Photos circa 1985. Click to enlarge.</span></div>
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Hand knitters may be familiar with Susanna's book <a href="https://amzn.to/2LCG6dC" target="_blank">Knitting Lace</a> [affiliate link]. Machine knitters know her from her book with Julia Weissman <a href="https://amzn.to/32SjgEi" target="_blank">A Machine Knitters' Guide to Creating Fabric</a> [affiliate link], or simply Bible, as machine knitters call it. Lovers of artwear may be familiar with Susanna's fabulous one of a kind machine knitted coats, featured in Julie Schafler Dale's book <a href="https://amzn.to/2QdKC6z" target="_blank">Art to Wear</a> [affiliate link]. <a href="https://philamuseum.org/calendar/exhibition/wall-american-art-wear" target="_blank">Off the Wall: American Art to Wear</a>, an upcoming exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, will present the work of Susanna Lewis and several others who created art to wear during the 1960s and '70s. The show will run November 10, 2019 through May 17, 2020.<br />
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Susanna Lewis taught a class at Parsons School of Design in the 1980s called Machine Knitted Fabrics. It was the best machine knitting training I ever had.</div>
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There were 8 students in the Parsons class, none of us taking the course for credit. Each Tuesday morning we sat around a table and Susanna would pass out worksheets. She would then show us swatches based on a technique of machine knitting, discuss the principles and methods to create them, and fill us in on variations. The next week we students would return with our swatches based on the worksheet and discuss what we'd learned.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipYlo6YtUdI4cNXnTmIQNzWYaVost9CoIR05WHSDHRqDTuv9BZKjNb2EXUzEJrjcQMqndRDz6TgTW9CP7XlD8X_EyWSWAd0oT3YdyUg1xZdLG0cq3JQ_kdQ_5feincycF1y_943kmBN1w/s1600/southwest-spectra-2-IMG_20190813_192736_455-800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipYlo6YtUdI4cNXnTmIQNzWYaVost9CoIR05WHSDHRqDTuv9BZKjNb2EXUzEJrjcQMqndRDz6TgTW9CP7XlD8X_EyWSWAd0oT3YdyUg1xZdLG0cq3JQ_kdQ_5feincycF1y_943kmBN1w/s640/southwest-spectra-2-IMG_20190813_192736_455-800.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Southwest Spectra</i> jacket, cotton, back and front</td></tr>
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These particular techniques are known as rippled jacquard and embossed rippled jacquard. They are double knit fabrics. For the machine knitters reading this, texture is built on the technical face of the fabric by knitting extra rows on selected needles. I machine knitted on a bulky Brother 260 with ribber. I've also knitted the fabrics on a standard gauge machine, but they take longer.</div>
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All of the cardigans pictured are cotton, though I've used these methods with wool often. They are also fully fashioned; I knit each pattern piece in a simple shape with increases or decreases. They were sewn together by hand. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3YvkUZ8nxdwLj4S5qSEZF-ZlV8Lo_SG74TnHwl1mEKmCli1LXTL8DiO6k9jRQnUX7EKGPF-y4U60aVEQUbey_0oltTxKgAtzTiipf4G8yyPwcUlNHgSKMq-E2KfqcBukxfa4UZLEunn0/s1600/daisy-IMG_20190731_195000_985-800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3YvkUZ8nxdwLj4S5qSEZF-ZlV8Lo_SG74TnHwl1mEKmCli1LXTL8DiO6k9jRQnUX7EKGPF-y4U60aVEQUbey_0oltTxKgAtzTiipf4G8yyPwcUlNHgSKMq-E2KfqcBukxfa4UZLEunn0/s640/daisy-IMG_20190731_195000_985-800.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Daisy</i>, cotton</td></tr>
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I'm now quite nostalgic for producing fully fashioned pieces again and will take advantage of an opportunity to produce some soon. Plans are to revisit these knitted fabric techniques in the near future, I'm hoping for early 2020!<br />
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O!<br />
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P.S. If you've been wanting to add sweaters to your handmade wardrobe, but didn't quite know how to approach them (without learning to knit), I have an answer for you. My How to Cut and Sew a Sweater opens again for registration very soon. <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/68bd65fde1" target="_blank">Join the list</a> to learn more about it!<br />
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O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-68280724901074561022019-07-23T11:23:00.001-04:002019-07-23T11:35:10.401-04:00Placing (and Cutting) the First Pattern Piece on Sweater Knit Fabric<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsh5LrKsRLdp7MA924qprqS16xjX51zPJAktx4gt1ZW7fbGIFg9Qjj5qJX2JbgR6695aDkd64EDrJTmP-DiRyhbd0b9XBMBz3xwHeBetozt6Sm-4sCMzc-faBf65eZpIDIolIYfhD8oyQ/s1600/cutout-flat-cable.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="466" data-original-width="549" height="542" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsh5LrKsRLdp7MA924qprqS16xjX51zPJAktx4gt1ZW7fbGIFg9Qjj5qJX2JbgR6695aDkd64EDrJTmP-DiRyhbd0b9XBMBz3xwHeBetozt6Sm-4sCMzc-faBf65eZpIDIolIYfhD8oyQ/s640/cutout-flat-cable.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you have never cut and sewn sweater knits before, you may have a few questions. This one was emailed to me about placing a sewing pattern on sweater knit fabric as the sewist pondered the task:<br />
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[...] I guess what I am getting at with [sweater knit] fabric is it isn't something you can lay out and put the pattern pieces on and cut away. You have to really think about your fabric in regards to whether it is a panel fabric or has regular type fabric widths, how they are going to work with the pattern you want to use or maybe won't work.</blockquote>
That's a very good way to put it. Placing a sewing pattern on a sweater knit isn't too different from laying out a sewing pattern on a woven fabric with a one-way design or on a fabric with a nap. And just as with any surface design, or a design woven into the textile, it's always necessary to consider the whole project before any cutting takes place.<br />
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For my this sweater I used cotton fisherman knit fabric in four panels. (Panels, also known as sweater blocks, are fabric pieces of a fixed length and width, as opposed to fabric that's been cut off a roll or bolt to a requested length and a fixed width.) Even when I work with a length of fabric with a standard width, I still only work with one section of fabric at a time, enough for one pattern piece. I'm very careful to keep the rest of the fabric length (that's still attached) rolled up, never allowing any of the fabric to hang off the table.<br />
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Whether the fabric is striped, an unbalanced plaid, a high contrast jacquard, or a textured Aran, there are various approaches to getting patterns to match on the sweater. It all starts with the cutting. I've modified the way I do this over the years. One thing that hasn't changed is that I always cut through a single thickness of fabric. Once I've determined how I'd like the design to sit on the garment, the following is how I lay out the first pattern piece of the sweater. In this case, it's the front.<br />
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<b><u>Step 1.</u> </b><b>With a pencil and a marking ruler with guide lines, draw lines on the pattern piece parallel and perpendicular to the marked grainline. </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPGlKfE-AhzUgK83uDEfTsZtX8FSUu-eZaThufo4m9T7ViiiPuMKaz6Ytzeo5DFILX_LNjRsjFLiDC7iQgi7B8cjdNSJPYHtaAyvBSFEx6sphwmvIBVERh2sWhNpocx6PzoO1aGIcm6Bw/s1600/Bextendlines.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="409" data-original-width="357" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPGlKfE-AhzUgK83uDEfTsZtX8FSUu-eZaThufo4m9T7ViiiPuMKaz6Ytzeo5DFILX_LNjRsjFLiDC7iQgi7B8cjdNSJPYHtaAyvBSFEx6sphwmvIBVERh2sWhNpocx6PzoO1aGIcm6Bw/s400/Bextendlines.png" width="347" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Step 2.</u> Choose the "top" of your fabric (the part where the shoulders are) and how you'd like your design to lay on the sweater. </b>A top must be designated with many knit fabrics. Plain jerseys and simple rib fabrics can usually be used in either direction. Be sure to stick with your designated top of the fabric throughout the project, unless you're making a particular design choice.</div>
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I prefer to work with the wrong side of the fabric up if the design is prominent enough on the wrong side for me to see what I'm doing. This way I feel freer to make marks on the fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim5oZS5lPKFoaarZm4z4__nWEZDFsbCRmagnvylDlPGPivKJFC4eNh4t6FsEM9F9XtQbMD4riCrvw4B3eRbRjqV0MWf9gqtElUb_S-C-BM7B1kn5RnqLnwoeR46h9K4lkCR4ki52DyHvg/s1600/B1stplace.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="466" data-original-width="549" height="539" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim5oZS5lPKFoaarZm4z4__nWEZDFsbCRmagnvylDlPGPivKJFC4eNh4t6FsEM9F9XtQbMD4riCrvw4B3eRbRjqV0MWf9gqtElUb_S-C-BM7B1kn5RnqLnwoeR46h9K4lkCR4ki52DyHvg/s640/B1stplace.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Step 3.</u> Mark what will be the center line on the fabric and mark a line perpendicular to the center line near the top or at another important area of the design.</b> Use pins like in the pic at the very top of this page or (if working with the wrong side) your favorite tailor's chalk or erasable marking pen to mark the lines on the fabric.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSwtm7Rt4Am-XMrviLak_vswOvwZ7S-F2I4pTGO8w2XetNa76rmgr9FaUDaF4d-qgPWfOJAO5tfEZvEXsmXiWimT7ZHl2xMssRK0ApC-C8e0xZK8DgOHx0kK0clPuR3WduN5oNHl4yxRo/s1600/fabricwT2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="465" data-original-width="549" height="539" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSwtm7Rt4Am-XMrviLak_vswOvwZ7S-F2I4pTGO8w2XetNa76rmgr9FaUDaF4d-qgPWfOJAO5tfEZvEXsmXiWimT7ZHl2xMssRK0ApC-C8e0xZK8DgOHx0kK0clPuR3WduN5oNHl4yxRo/s640/fabricwT2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Step 4.</u> Place the first piece back on the fabric. </b>Pin the paper pattern in place or use good weights.<br />
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<b><u>Step 5.</u> Extend your drawn in pattern lines onto the fabric with pins (or with disappearing marker). </b>Adjust the fabric as needed so that the paper pattern and design are square. The fabric design in this example has a built-in vertical element so no more vertical lines had to be drawn. Depending on the fabric design, it may be necessary to follow a rib or wale in the fabric and mark more vertical lines than just the center line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4w12CiUTtAGxo5wmd616TbK3Z2s0xryw6T7QS_jxK_WX3NjXhk_i7OT3Icc5_2PDtmXTZ7QZAlinRAX7RUFCLGTJRmfP5nxGGF3c9LnS3PkcFfxepTc4Y7RJIAtHS63eprnlZXXgcMiA/s1600/morelines4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="466" data-original-width="549" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4w12CiUTtAGxo5wmd616TbK3Z2s0xryw6T7QS_jxK_WX3NjXhk_i7OT3Icc5_2PDtmXTZ7QZAlinRAX7RUFCLGTJRmfP5nxGGF3c9LnS3PkcFfxepTc4Y7RJIAtHS63eprnlZXXgcMiA/s640/morelines4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Step 6.</u> With chalk or marker, trace the outline of the paper pattern onto the fabric.</b> If working without seam allowances on the paper pattern, you'll be marking the sewing line. Be sure to mark notches to the outside of the sewing line.<br />
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If working with a seam allowance on the paper pattern, you'll be marking the cutting line. Mark notches as you prefer, but never clip your notches to the inside with sweater knits!<br />
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<b><u>Step 7.</u></b> <b>Remove the pins or weights from the paper pattern and flip the pattern to the opposite side of the center line, adjusting fabric so that both sides match.</b> Pin or weight the paper pattern in place.<br />
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<b><u>Step 8.</u> Trace the 2nd side as in Step 6. </b><br />
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<b><u>Step 9.</u> Cut the pattern piece out of the fabric.</b><br />
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I like to thread trace by sewing machine, so my piece will look something like the diagram above. (Thread tracing isn't used in the cut and sew sweater industry, but I like it for my personal projects.) Your front may have neater seam allowances if you cut the actual cutting line provided by the sewing pattern. To thread trace, I do a quick, sloppy cut that I’ll trim later. After I cut, I immediately bring the piece to the sewing machine and sew a long basting stitch on the outer edge of the sewing lines that I've marked. The presser foot is set to light pressure. This basting stitch will help keep the fabric from stretching or running. Plus, knowing where the sewing line is will help immensely in the next step. <b>I use this first piece as a guide to match the fabric pattern when I lay out the pieces for the back and the sleeves.</b> Learn how I do that in my <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2015/06/matching-texture-or-color-patterns-for.html">Matching the Texture or Color Patterns in a Cut and Sew Sweater</a> blog post.</div>
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I hope this doesn't sound too tedious. I actually enjoy the process and love trying to get things lined up just right. If you have any tips or variations that you use, please share them in the comments. We all want to know! </div>
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And if you're interested in my step-by-step instructions for cutting and sewing a sweater that fits you perfectly, please <a href="https://pages.convertkit.com/68bd65fde1/0fb4809c7c" target="_blank">sign up for info on my online video course How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a>.<br />
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<i>O!</i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post was originally published June 2015 and has been updated for clarity.</span></i></div>
O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-26457323512221661072019-06-20T18:20:00.001-04:002021-05-14T17:59:56.485-04:00Mitered Corners for Sweater Knits<br />
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Mitered corners are not just for table napkins and quilts. They're also an excellent finish for side seam slits on cut and sew sweaters. If your sewing pattern has them built in, cool. If not, this is how you make them on mid- to bulky weight sweater knits.<br />
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How to Sew Mitered Corners for Sweater Knits</h3>
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It’s important to start with finished edges when making mitered corners on a sweater knit. Here I used an overlocked edge but a <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2019/03/a-stretchy-hong-kong-finish.html">stretchy Hong Kong finish</a> could also be used.<br />
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<b><u>Step 1.</u></b> Make marks on the fabric. <br />
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Because I’m making a 1.5 inch hem on each side, I’m measuring twice that amount, or 3 inches, away from the corner. I mark a small dot on the finished edge.<br />
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<b><u>Step 2.</u></b> Draw a line between the marks. <br />
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<b><u>Step 3.</u></b> (Optional) Mark the fold line. The fold line is perpendicular to the first line and extends to the corner.<br />
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<b><u>Step 4.</u></b> Fold (on fold line, if you drew one) so that the marks from Step 1 meet. Place a pin to hold edges together. You’ll be sewing on the line you drew in Step 2.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJ-2FsOrlZiGgK1IuTHCJvEwYzqJtd_prd7v-8Pkdqj67wmbxvNhR77UA2RN_Pk-UBmiOjvK0zriZcpAaHChOyDEV-ozv1wX6nZZ78P32-0P0a6_wmQ4mTvUdp1cZr9rFCd0TQcpe_Js/s1600/mitered-fold-pin-800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJ-2FsOrlZiGgK1IuTHCJvEwYzqJtd_prd7v-8Pkdqj67wmbxvNhR77UA2RN_Pk-UBmiOjvK0zriZcpAaHChOyDEV-ozv1wX6nZZ78P32-0P0a6_wmQ4mTvUdp1cZr9rFCd0TQcpe_Js/s640/mitered-fold-pin-800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><u>Step 5.</u></b> Sew from the outside edge to the fold. Use my technique in the video for keeping the fabric in place without using more pins.<br />
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<b><u>Step 6.</u></b> Serge along the sewing line or sew again with a wider zigzag and trim close to the stitches.<br />
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<b><u>Step 7.</u></b> Turn to the right side, while gently pushing at the corner with a finger<br />
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Now you have a mitered corner! Steam the hems. You should allow steam to penetrate the fabric, but remember not to press the iron to a sweater knit. Allow it to dry, then sew the hem by hand with a catch stitch or slip stitch. Or sew by machine if you prefer.<br />
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Side seam slits are stylish and make a sweater comfortable to wear. Mitered corners are the perfect finish for them when your sweater is of the cut-and-sew variety. Consider mitered corners for a split neckline, too.<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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Interested in special sales on sweater knits, sweater knit sewing tips, and curated sweater inspiration? <a href="https://pages.convertkit.com/ee536f3612/726690a672" target="_blank">Join the list</a> and get started with my free download <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/7a61ca5554" target="_blank">Five Tips for Using Commercial Patterns with Sweater Knits</a>.<br />
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<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-70106863032869518532019-04-20T08:30:00.001-04:002020-12-26T22:30:40.285-05:00Matching Stitch Patterns Across Seams When Sewing Sweater Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have a favorite technique for matching texture and color patterns when sewing seams, but it isn’t magic. Seams won’t miraculously match using this method unless they're carefully planned when the pattern is being cut. But if you are careful and think ahead, you can get beautiful matching across your seams.<br />
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Remember, when working with strong textures and color patterns, always purchase more fabric than you would for a solid or a fabric with a small pattern just like when you are matching stripes or plaids in a woven. Also the placement of your pattern pieces needs to be as precise as possible and careful cutting is mandatory! Once you plan your pattern matching and cut the pieces accordingly, you can use my method to make sure your hard work was worth your effort. <br />
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<h4>
The One-Pin Method of Matching Stitch Patterns Across Seams</h4>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VznYuzw8YHk" width="560"></iframe></div>
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<b><u>Step 1.</u></b> Place fabric pieces right sides together.<br />
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<b><u>Step 2.</u></b> Making sure the first pattern is matched, place one pin perpendicular to the seam holding the fabric in place.<br />
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<b><u>Step 3.</u></b> Place fabric under the presser foot. Lower the presser foot. Lower the needle. Remove the pin.<br />
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<b><u>Step 4.</u></b> Separate the fabric a little to view the next pattern motif you need to match. It should be no greater than 3 or 4 inches away. Match the patterns and hold with your fingers as you sew.<br />
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<b><u>Step 5.</u></b> Once your fingers get close to the presser foot, stop and repeat steps 4 and 5 until you complete the seam.<br />
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In order for this technique to work, your machine must already be set up properly for sewing sweater knits. This means adjusting the presser foot pressure (if available) and using a walking foot (if necessary). See <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2017/08/how-to-sew-smooth-sweater-knit-seams.html">How to Sew Smooth Sweater Knit Seams</a>.<br />
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You can also use this method on a serger with one big caveat: Don't use a pin to begin. In fact, never use pins when working with a serger! Instead, hold the fabric together with a craft clip (also sold under the brand name Wonder Clips). Binder clips work nicely too if you have them on hand. Since there's generally not a large bed on home sergers, the fabric adjustments and holds (step 4) will have to be done more frequently.<br />
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There's generally not a large bed on home sergers so the fabric adjustments and holds (step 4) will come more frequently. Be sure all settings are correct for your sweater knit, and you'll be able to match patterns across the seam with a serger, too.<br />
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Interested in exploring the details of sweater sewing a little more? My online workshop <b>How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</b> is open for registration. <a href="https://pages.convertkit.com/68bd65fde1/0fb4809c7c" target="_blank">Sign up to learn more about the course.</a><br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-22522747383037636932019-03-20T13:41:00.003-04:002021-02-08T20:02:30.548-05:00A Stretchy Hong Kong Finish for Sweater Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This is an updated version!</span></i></div>
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"Is it possible to finish seams neatly on a sweater knit without a serger?" That's a question I get asked frequently. The answer to that question is yes!<br />
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You're probably familiar with the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=hong+kong+finish" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Hong Kong finish</a> when used with woven fabrics. The steps for creating this finish on a sweater knit are similar. For the binding fabric I use micro mesh from <a href="https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/browse/category/5?cid=26" target="_blank">Spandex World</a> in NYC's garment district. This mesh is also available online. I've also used very thin (a.k.a. flyweight) cotton or linen rib fabrics from Mood Fabrics. I've purchased both of these at Mood's New York store. They may be available online, though I haven't found them.<br />
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I've never seen or heard of a stretchy Hong Kong binding on a ready-to-wear sweater. I do love the finish, however, and think it's perfect for your handmade cut and sew sweaters.<br />
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<h3>
How to Sew a Stretchy Hong Kong Finish for Sweater Knits</h3>
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<u>Step 1. Cut the binding strips.</u></h4>
I cut the mesh one and a half inches wide and as long as the sweater knit edge I'm finishing. No need to cut on the bias; the micro mesh is already nice and stretchy and doesn't run or fray. Pictured on the left is the beige mesh strip I'm using for this demonstration. In my hands is a sample of flyweight cotton rib cut into a strip. The public side of the sweater fabric is shown below.<br />
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<b><u>Step 2. Sew the seam with right sides together using appropriate settings for the sweater knit.</u></b></h4>
For this fabric I used a regular zigzag at 0.5 mm wide by 2.75 mm long, sewing with polyester thread and a ball point needle, as I usually do with sweater knits. There's a 5/8 inch seam allowance for this demo.<br />
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<b><u>Step 3. Sew the binding strip to the edge.</u></b></h4>
Line up raw edges and sew 1/8 inch to the right of the seam line, at the half-inch mark in this example. Right side of the binding is facing down, if there's an obvious right side of the binding fabric. I stayed with the plain, narrow zigzag (0.5 mm wide x 2.75 mm long). Stretch the binding fabric just a little as you sew. This will help keep the sweater knit fabric edge from stretching out when completed. (Note: Theoretically, if you have an overlocker, you could complete Step 3 with the overlocker and then skip Step 4, though I've never done it that way.)<br />
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<b><u>Step 4. Trim the seam allowance close to the zigzag you've just sewn.</u></b></h4>
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<b><u>Step 5. Fold the binding strip over the sweater knit fabric edge and pin.</u></b></h4>
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<h4>
<b><u>Step 6. Stitch the binding down.</u></b></h4>
Keep it stretchy. In this case I used the 3-step zigzag (3.0 mm wide x 3.0 mm long) right on the binding since the cut sweater fabric edge is now protected from stretching. I'm sure most any stretch stitch would work well.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsc-XEee5Ih4wAyKhYgbl7Pn3R4vAUY62JkpeMAQZnwD8c3LuLOVA28HuqmMqsqhxdGApL0xYRQRb6J_g3hEAS7UuqTr9SZ5Mdgb_Kly9qdCYHCIy-2zGwISW9gvrIrrD33UVoYJSmuE/s1600/o-jolly-stitch-binding-down-640.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsc-XEee5Ih4wAyKhYgbl7Pn3R4vAUY62JkpeMAQZnwD8c3LuLOVA28HuqmMqsqhxdGApL0xYRQRb6J_g3hEAS7UuqTr9SZ5Mdgb_Kly9qdCYHCIy-2zGwISW9gvrIrrD33UVoYJSmuE/s640/o-jolly-stitch-binding-down-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcX3hLEA3Ka3LyQ0bncLJV6aRgcTOD0VPmdLzMKuz8b-lfLOZG2crEjiqziKV-E1P6Om8mdJt2mRUX9UAOVNr2Q2unLq7kV6anl2cDQ3BdT1X34GIxXEM1liyZta3BRpNndraPo6_frI/s1600/o-jolly-show-hk-binding-stitched-640.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcX3hLEA3Ka3LyQ0bncLJV6aRgcTOD0VPmdLzMKuz8b-lfLOZG2crEjiqziKV-E1P6Om8mdJt2mRUX9UAOVNr2Q2unLq7kV6anl2cDQ3BdT1X34GIxXEM1liyZta3BRpNndraPo6_frI/s640/o-jolly-show-hk-binding-stitched-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<u><b>Step 7. Trim the excess binding width on the back close to the stitches.</b></u></h4>
Also trim extra binding length.<br />
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<u><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMzLtZ8xXOGUM_fs6Nkj47UoVeGhz4a2HU0zWWyTNMpDLVqAMNZP_geZblafEb4_-pU28MKv6hx535xxZl92MBNSnQuQf2QTQPuandYfjRZPzuvbxfTZwucm2_fwEUaMgKHlJV8kQZLs/s1600/o-jolly-trim-excess-640.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMzLtZ8xXOGUM_fs6Nkj47UoVeGhz4a2HU0zWWyTNMpDLVqAMNZP_geZblafEb4_-pU28MKv6hx535xxZl92MBNSnQuQf2QTQPuandYfjRZPzuvbxfTZwucm2_fwEUaMgKHlJV8kQZLs/s640/o-jolly-trim-excess-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></u></div>
<u><b><br /></b></u>Steam the seam allowance to the side. Steam the right side too. And that's it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlirFCck9qyicz1IzbIzk-JkwJae2kM-F0VHe_kbEZbV96kAmtOIt6EqsxngwHykpbl2Q9CPhlMtS5_XcfpSeg97YoiMR_MdqyuP2ACoj2feRt0J9CvcI-r7RGCQMpky4e45eIvC5LHjo/s1600/ojolly-stretchy-honkong-binding-2019-01-05+18.40.12.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="656" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlirFCck9qyicz1IzbIzk-JkwJae2kM-F0VHe_kbEZbV96kAmtOIt6EqsxngwHykpbl2Q9CPhlMtS5_XcfpSeg97YoiMR_MdqyuP2ACoj2feRt0J9CvcI-r7RGCQMpky4e45eIvC5LHjo/s640/ojolly-stretchy-honkong-binding-2019-01-05+18.40.12.gif" width="640" /></a></div>
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You may be wondering why I cut the the binding strip so wide when I was going to trim it in the end. There are 2 reasons: First, the trim becomes narrower as it's stretched along its length. Also, I like to be sure I have enough binding width to comfortably stretch around the sweater edge and to sew that final pass.<br />
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A stretchy Hong Kong finish will work with many sweater knits, as long as the binding fabric is thin enough. If using this finish with a very bulky sweater knit, I'd sew the sweater seam, steam it open, then attach the binding onto each edge separately, instead of both edges together as demonstrated above.<br />
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This seam allowance finish is a favorite of mine, and it can be accomplished with just a sewing machine. I think it's prettier than many edges that are overlocked or zigzagged and trimmed, if you've got the time!<br />
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<h3>
Learning the Skills</h3>
The stretchy Hong Kong finish is just one of the techniques I teach in my online workshop <b>How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</b>. I also teach students to sew professional looking necklines, achieve smooth seams, and several other essential techniques. <a href="http://workshop.ojolly.net/p/how-to-cut-and-sew-a-sweater" target="_blank">Sign up to receive information about my online course</a>.<div><br /><div><i>O!</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><br /></div></div>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-59352986864247683472019-02-19T13:03:00.001-05:002020-11-11T16:58:58.854-05:00Frocktails and Foldover Elastic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0BHdFrrXjuQ5ZPt2svFT2GGEVYf4BQmfFufXsFSgRmxp7neShNuSzGEvI9uj2fcP3Ap5fzlYP2Sey6OBZWJESN9i6wowl1IAR_9nGua4Cvo-vAfAlm-xGxf-F09m5mZFME4pAJllOJxs/s1600/ojolly-frocktails-sweater-front2019-02-14+15.15.16-600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0BHdFrrXjuQ5ZPt2svFT2GGEVYf4BQmfFufXsFSgRmxp7neShNuSzGEvI9uj2fcP3Ap5fzlYP2Sey6OBZWJESN9i6wowl1IAR_9nGua4Cvo-vAfAlm-xGxf-F09m5mZFME4pAJllOJxs/s640/ojolly-frocktails-sweater-front2019-02-14+15.15.16-600.jpg" width="359" /></a></div>
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Recently, when doing a Facebook Live in the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/SweaterKnitSewing/" target="_blank">Sweater Knit Sewing</a> group, I discussed the Stretchy Hong Kong finish. (A Hong Kong binding is a very neat and professional finish for seam allowances. My Stretchy Hong Kong finish is a variation of this binding that keeps the seam allowances nice and stretchy on sweater knits.) Someone asked me if it were possible to use foldover elastic (FOE) to finish the seam allowances when doing this stretchy version of a Hong Kong finish. I replied that I didn't really know since I’d never tried!<br />
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Well... weeks later I tried it and I didn’t like it. I don’t have the sample to show, because I never quite completed the trial. It turns out that FOE is too heavy for that application! <br />
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I like the look of this elastic, however. It's shiny on one side and matte on the other. There's a line along the length where you fold it. The elastic happens to be in my collection of elastics, because I like to have FOE on hand just in case I have the urge to make some underwear. Tip -- It's excellent for finishing the edges of panties!</div>
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And the shiny side happened to go perfectly with the fabric I used for my official NYC <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=frocktails&oq=frocktails&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i61l2j69i60j0l2.2786j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8">Frocktails</a> sweater! (Frocktails is the name for a party where local people who sew come together for drinks and tasty snacks in order to discuss sewing and anything else. I think the first one I ever saw mentioned on Instagram was held in Melbourne, but the good idea spread and Frocktail parties are now held all over the globe.) I machine knitted my very silvery, metallic-looking fabric with rayon yarn that I've had for over a dozen years.<br />
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Though too heavy for seam allowances, I realized the FOE is actually great for the bottoms of sweaters. The weight, which was bad for seams, helps keep the sweater down. You may know that Chanel jackets have chains at the bottom to weigh down the garment so it hangs properly. That’s kind of what the FOE does in its own way. I considered it for a neckline as well but I have yet to try it. <br />
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The sweater knit fabric is two shades of shiny gray, a simple 1x1 rib, so the fabric is the same on each side. The width I knitted is the width of the sweater. I used the neat selvages without any added finishing for the armholes and side edges. The loosely knitted rayon is relatively lightweight, even though technically it's not a fine gauge sweater. </div>
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You can see the fancy hem and side seams in the gif below, as I try too hard to recreate the festive atmosphere of Frocktails at home with only watered down ginger tea and a wine glass.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQmTDqIvwUgySfOUxG_pFVET9UB3NX7q4Z_wB3Igb2H1440F8F9EQLQGlawW1FGvLIGQkTy15Ig8-AeTI94xzxU8dg9vaTt7b00RAjNHLSwswoi1ZMInppl8wzJV2BKr3Q1TOPyzQn_0/s1600/ojolly-frocktails-sweater-20190212_143525_1.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="369" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQmTDqIvwUgySfOUxG_pFVET9UB3NX7q4Z_wB3Igb2H1440F8F9EQLQGlawW1FGvLIGQkTy15Ig8-AeTI94xzxU8dg9vaTt7b00RAjNHLSwswoi1ZMInppl8wzJV2BKr3Q1TOPyzQn_0/s640/ojolly-frocktails-sweater-20190212_143525_1.gif" width="356" /></a></div>
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The sleeveless sweater has side slits that reveal a two-tone underlining, added for stability and coverage, from waist to armhole. I attached the front and back hems with a button. It's essentially a "low waste" design in that the sweater is two folded rectangles attached at the shoulders and at the underlining side seams. The foldover elastic made an excellent finish for the bottom edges. I had no idea the elastic would work so well! FOE is a good alternative to bindings and bands made from self fabric. (Self fabric = trim cut from the same fabric as the main garment) and works with heavier weight fabrics than I imagined.</div>
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Some people apply FOE to garments by just folding the elastic over the edge and sewing, but I use a two-pass method.<br />
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<b>Step 1.</b> I trimmed the bottom edges to the curved shape I wanted.<br />
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<b>Step 2.</b> I measured the elastic along the front bottom edge (in this case front and bottom edges were of equal length) and then cut two of these.<br />
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The FOE I used is three quarters of an inch unfolded. Here it is pictured above an elastic that’s an inch wide unfolded. The wider elastic may work for a bulkier knit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQT9UpoXCtfXY_hwwnNsicdntAqdjhE3Xa8xGLdjysXGlIzeDJZE3xd7uzeBrrPh1fh_m8gbwBFdJ0fP2HKcXtP_6GtKSJNS6XNbgzlQXllUIcRfaJ8X0jUecfXyizZsMD7dKkX9J1Xzs/s1600/foes-2019-02-19+09.30.43-640.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQT9UpoXCtfXY_hwwnNsicdntAqdjhE3Xa8xGLdjysXGlIzeDJZE3xd7uzeBrrPh1fh_m8gbwBFdJ0fP2HKcXtP_6GtKSJNS6XNbgzlQXllUIcRfaJ8X0jUecfXyizZsMD7dKkX9J1Xzs/s640/foes-2019-02-19+09.30.43-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 3.</b> I then folded and glue basted the ends of the elastic under about 1/2 inch, as you can see in the picture, top right edge. The elastic pieces were now shorter in length than the bottom edges of the sweater.<br />
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<b>Step 4.</b> Working with the public side of the sweater facing up, I placed the edge of the fabric right up to the fold line that runs down the length of the elastic. I attached the elastic to the fabric using a 3 mm wide by 3 mm long zigzag, stretching the elastic slightly to the length of each bottom sweater edge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEighpWocNsnPr4tQdao_lri3vLYbcWJgN61SBNvLkrjK1WNOHP9c8Iw0NI3AW_kQHV9Geu1bmxKtjHSfNeKjAGvyXdvBbhPepalWRugqvXhqKYKYd39R0SkkFQyuFFzmh85l_stSZPUPxY/s1600/fabric-and-foe-2019-02-19+11.04.30.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEighpWocNsnPr4tQdao_lri3vLYbcWJgN61SBNvLkrjK1WNOHP9c8Iw0NI3AW_kQHV9Geu1bmxKtjHSfNeKjAGvyXdvBbhPepalWRugqvXhqKYKYd39R0SkkFQyuFFzmh85l_stSZPUPxY/s640/fabric-and-foe-2019-02-19+11.04.30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 5.</b> Next I folded the elastic around the fabric and did a second pass close to the edge of the elastic with a “wobbly straight stitch” (a.k.a. a very narrow 0.5 mm wide zigzag, 3 mm long). At least that’s what I did with my test sample! On closer look at the final garment, I seem to have sewn this second pass with a straight stitch. Unfortunately many days passed between my sample and binding the actual sweater, and I must have forgotten what I'd done. Since I stretched the FOE slightly as I sewed, however, the bottom edge remains stretchy. <br />
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Below you can see the inside and outside of the bottom edge. Another day I'll experiment with an even thicker fabric and the wider FOE.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKRoddIEtfuf5QqNtVn2LtROAlNCP5mycaGme_uO-nHBcX7Vd-8i1TXa0owmIz-BjLBfRCbM_Yl70jIkOKVAZ_VG3WbZ9mYMwDLRkqxU9u2iFjh2mFOdqKn-hqGmHuZhBJvETzPZ1HW78/s1600/foe-binding-both-sides-label-640.png"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKRoddIEtfuf5QqNtVn2LtROAlNCP5mycaGme_uO-nHBcX7Vd-8i1TXa0owmIz-BjLBfRCbM_Yl70jIkOKVAZ_VG3WbZ9mYMwDLRkqxU9u2iFjh2mFOdqKn-hqGmHuZhBJvETzPZ1HW78/s640/foe-binding-both-sides-label-640.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Special thanks to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sewmsboncha/" target="_blank">@sewmsboncha</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/sophomorestudio/" target="_blank">@sophomorestudio</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/disewbedient/" target="_blank">@disewbedient</a>, and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cmykat/" target="_blank">@cmykat</a> for organizing such a fun <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/nycfrocktails2019/" target="_blank">#nycfrocktails2019</a> and for giving me motivation and a deadline to complete my sweater.<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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Like sewing sweaters? <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/5d4f3503ab" target="_blank">Join the list</a> for sweater knit sewing tips, discounts on O! Jolly! knit fabrics, and curated sweater inspiration.<span face=""trebuchet ms" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span>
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O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-43454520225923980842019-01-19T13:43:00.002-05:002021-06-07T11:09:17.735-04:00Luscious Sweater Knits Extra - Part 2<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifDznfPltZ1p5zL8UhM4hfb9faoJqTlL399jH6NzKED6Zfp3C9pFZZ-WzQhFm-Dy-T9DHcRBHLVOic9DNPxdh-hWsomVVX3z7ySKrIAj_jfrOsfPgqwZhkhjvS4NzP4T1KJf5urXnWxNA/s1600/ojolly-prov-jack-m2-2019-01-18+14.45.28-600.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifDznfPltZ1p5zL8UhM4hfb9faoJqTlL399jH6NzKED6Zfp3C9pFZZ-WzQhFm-Dy-T9DHcRBHLVOic9DNPxdh-hWsomVVX3z7ySKrIAj_jfrOsfPgqwZhkhjvS4NzP4T1KJf5urXnWxNA/s640/ojolly-prov-jack-m2-2019-01-18+14.45.28-600.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Last fall I shared a <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/11/luscious-sweater-knits-extra-part-1.html">behind the seams look at my Washington Square x Toaster 2 sweater</a> that appeared in an article I wrote for Threads Magazine (#200, January 2019). The article is also <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2018/12/07/sew-luscious-sweater-knits" target="_blank">available online</a> now. Please click through also to <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2018/12/07/sew-luscious-sweater-knits" target="_blank">see the very lovely model wearing the cardigan</a> pictured above.<br />
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As I’ve mentioned before, some of the techniques in my article are not ones traditionally used in the garment industry for ready-to-wear clothing. I’ve specifically adapted many of these methods for home sewing. Here’s a closeup look at the featured sweater in the article.<br />
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Named after the stitch pattern I developed a few years ago, the Providence jacket was my first time sewing this particular fabric, and I was delighted to have an excuse to work with my favorite kind of knit! Back when I was doing custom knitting, I produced this fabric in a lighter weight yarn. This <a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/product/wool-rib-and-diamond-tuck-providence-classic-cream" target="_blank">more substantial version of the Providence sweater knit</a>, however, was developed for sweater coats and jackets. As my knitting contractor says, Providence is “slow knitting and full of body”. <br />
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If it’s my favorite kind of knit fabric then that means it’s wool, bulky, and has a prominent stitch pattern. A bonus feature is that this fabric has very regular, finished selvages which can sometimes be used as a finished edge.<br />
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I designed the sweater jacket based on my own sweater pattern block. Providence is relatively stable for a sweater knit. No special fit adjustments were needed to my basic pattern to make it work for this fabric. The stitch pattern has a strong vertical element in the design. I redrafted the front right piece so that the cardigan would have a diagonal, asymmetric front opening. I then cut out the pieces to take advantage of those clean selvages.<br />
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When constructing the cardigan I folded the selvages back on themselves and stitched them in place to produce sturdy edge finishes for the front opening. In the picture below you can see the folded over selvage at the left edge. The hem is bound with self fabric, rotated so the vertical element is running crosswise.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpy4u2_Itf4wDhEs4PNmGvigYhpHwgw6VekxLDYuexBYEWwyXj8DTWJ1O9TzF2kWObb4ERDr0cZt9B_AG7hrIcGxCTqBp80JoShkpOPszDpmwdIxu-ZfUptEEiUOBic7JDjtlD27zqC0/s1600/ojolly-selvage-fold-hem-2019-01-17+21.44.35-3165.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpy4u2_Itf4wDhEs4PNmGvigYhpHwgw6VekxLDYuexBYEWwyXj8DTWJ1O9TzF2kWObb4ERDr0cZt9B_AG7hrIcGxCTqBp80JoShkpOPszDpmwdIxu-ZfUptEEiUOBic7JDjtlD27zqC0/s640/ojolly-selvage-fold-hem-2019-01-17+21.44.35-3165.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For the tie at the neck, I used a wider strip of Providence rotated as with the hem binding. I folded the selvage over to cover the unfinished seam allowance at the neck and hand stitched the selvage down with slip stitches. Using the selvage allowed me to produce a less bulky seam since there are fewer seam allowances.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPYwJ4AKDP7EbuZueJLixxcxaHIAIiyjd9px7t293HO8exUhrOIMRdoZkJUkN5_yIDuowNGvckDffNgoFTte9moKjcokDPiDr4DF7n_7uCTgmc2bcqq4OfPg-p90_hnJ6wtpd0c32vKEY/s1600/ojollly-prov-neck-tie-2019-01-17+21.45.51-640.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPYwJ4AKDP7EbuZueJLixxcxaHIAIiyjd9px7t293HO8exUhrOIMRdoZkJUkN5_yIDuowNGvckDffNgoFTte9moKjcokDPiDr4DF7n_7uCTgmc2bcqq4OfPg-p90_hnJ6wtpd0c32vKEY/s640/ojollly-prov-neck-tie-2019-01-17+21.45.51-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The rouleau “eye” is supported on the inside with a small patch of interfacing. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNNtuwych9tkZIpcIgnrNupGfKH4hUREDPp33Nt1zLqflWJqFeUQySl27aLHaWiZvTRDav92qLEIIbBXbzuoSEvgZEPxYLzUQGadrl9-efAtUBIekfNO2v7Frz3MzxvalFsYkud1W1T4g/s1600/ojolly-prov-eye-inter-2019-01-18+11.31.52-640.jpg"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNNtuwych9tkZIpcIgnrNupGfKH4hUREDPp33Nt1zLqflWJqFeUQySl27aLHaWiZvTRDav92qLEIIbBXbzuoSEvgZEPxYLzUQGadrl9-efAtUBIekfNO2v7Frz3MzxvalFsYkud1W1T4g/s640/ojolly-prov-eye-inter-2019-01-18+11.31.52-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For the article I shipped the sweater (along with my raspberry pullover and numerous small technique samples) to Threads Magazine for a photo session. After the package was returned to me, I tried on the jacket again and have now decided to add a second closure just under the bust. The additional closure will keep the front opening better secured to properly show off the sweater's asymmetric features.<br />
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<i>O!</i></div>
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Just getting started cutting and sewing sweaters? <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/27138e34f9" target="_blank">Join the list</a> to learn about my video series / online workshop How to Cut and Sew a Sweater.<br />
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<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-43097554762026550902019-01-05T19:23:00.004-05:002020-11-24T21:13:35.670-05:00Recommended Sewing Machine Features for Sewing Sweater Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXjxoUeT0Lr8p7ZyXwxPsYsIEJSP95paiUggZXIfLNkxX-23Ny47E24Q9OIVslEo0F1lHyHMQ3sa5mIomvZV8JSpTw9EMasKVbpkxzDA3dJCKiELuqcfkGjUNEeY6gax43o2QDiyPUcg/s1600/sewingmach2017-03-15+11.07.00.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXjxoUeT0Lr8p7ZyXwxPsYsIEJSP95paiUggZXIfLNkxX-23Ny47E24Q9OIVslEo0F1lHyHMQ3sa5mIomvZV8JSpTw9EMasKVbpkxzDA3dJCKiELuqcfkGjUNEeY6gax43o2QDiyPUcg/s1600/sewingmach2017-03-15+11.07.00.jpg" /></a></div>
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Imagine the scene: After hours of laying out fabric and pattern pieces, and after carefully cutting, you at last begin sewing your first seam... And the machine “eats” your fabric! Oh, it’s happened to you, too? Many years ago I was sewing a lacy sweater knit. It was the first time in a while I had sewn this tricky fabric and I was working on an unfamiliar machine (an inexpensive Brother I purchased to use for simple mending only while mine was 2000 miles away in storage. Long story). I never even got to the point of fretting about rippled seams. I couldn’t even get the seam started! <br />
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I solved the problem by purchasing a walking foot before trying again. The gripping, serrated, bottom edges of the walking foot helped feed the fabric past the needle and got me going. It was that simple. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5J736PYv5T4v6fwSITaBhTrzDFGtbhTDkvxMrZbJkhxdLngATQodjZlVIyXbQtYZOhUz3hAR9OBZxKhLwgGGwoIoVt1niesRP6IEYXuYzgfsYuONmUCoTYPra-o-eEnb-jsBuEYE0Haw/s1600/walking-ft-on-side-2019-01-02+13.18.18.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5J736PYv5T4v6fwSITaBhTrzDFGtbhTDkvxMrZbJkhxdLngATQodjZlVIyXbQtYZOhUz3hAR9OBZxKhLwgGGwoIoVt1niesRP6IEYXuYzgfsYuONmUCoTYPra-o-eEnb-jsBuEYE0Haw/s640/walking-ft-on-side-2019-01-02+13.18.18.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The white serrated parts in the center of the pic move up and down, as the needle moves up and down.</td></tr>
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There are other ways I might have handled the situation, but I learned that when working with a very stretchy, openwork fabric with slow recovery, the more help one has to move the fabric along, the better. This is why, when I eventually went shopping for a new sewing machine, I chose one with a better feed system. The more contact the feed dogs have with the sweater knit, the more readily the fabric will move beyond the needle at the start. <br />
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I’m sometimes asked what kind of sewing machine is best for working with sweater knits and does one need a serger? I’ll answer the second part first. No, you don’t need a serger or overlocker. In fact <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2014/05/a-stretchy-hong-kong-finish-for-sweater.html">one of my favorite finishes for seam allowances</a> doesn’t use a serger at all. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisyZKS8PiBlOmpaa2r0Se__X3muMZXW_KMVA3GNCLUfgQ4LnFDgyzgZvppa891JJcohadixIBR5oJbxxyaoNc_m0RjUuBz6uwHlMa3N2ofTm6LQP7KOsJhqs3CEm-emI7Hjvu6s2UQdU0/s1600/ojolly-stretchy-honkong-binding-2019-01-05+18.40.12.gif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisyZKS8PiBlOmpaa2r0Se__X3muMZXW_KMVA3GNCLUfgQ4LnFDgyzgZvppa891JJcohadixIBR5oJbxxyaoNc_m0RjUuBz6uwHlMa3N2ofTm6LQP7KOsJhqs3CEm-emI7Hjvu6s2UQdU0/s400/ojolly-stretchy-honkong-binding-2019-01-05+18.40.12.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stretchy Hong Kong binding finishes the seam allowances neatly without a serger.</td></tr>
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Then what’s the best sewing machine for sweater knits? Most machines, as evidenced by my experience with a bottom of the line Brother, can be outfitted or adjusted to sew a sweater knit. (See <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/02/a-roadmap-for-improved-sweater-knit.html">A Roadmap for Improved Sweater Knit Seams</a>.) However, if you’re in the market for a new machine and you want to be sure it can handle sweater knits, or if you’re trying to decide which machine from your collection might be best to use, I have some guidelines. <br />
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Here are four sewing machine features I recommend for ease of sewing sweater knits:<br />
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1. A Substantial Feed Dog System</h4>
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My old Brother machine had a feed dog with 3 moving pieces (the grooved moving bars that emerge through the throat plate). Adding the walking foot with 2 grooved sections (above the fabric) was all I needed in that particular situation. With my current machine, the Janome HD-3000 pictured at the beginning of this post, I’m able to sew about 90% of the time without a walking foot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCyTqNeOHXf4S2MRV6I8j_pFGNtc2WGM5WxAqtxOdO1tPuSVi7YZHuNOQZ-8xWS4j7IVwo83p5XwDcbRCZJNiS6PblfSmi9dpfU0ksH2y5SuzLH1eeH3HmJ9yJyhlmRXWKKmZTLB2NYv0/s1600/feed-dogs-2019-01-02+13.16.28.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCyTqNeOHXf4S2MRV6I8j_pFGNtc2WGM5WxAqtxOdO1tPuSVi7YZHuNOQZ-8xWS4j7IVwo83p5XwDcbRCZJNiS6PblfSmi9dpfU0ksH2y5SuzLH1eeH3HmJ9yJyhlmRXWKKmZTLB2NYv0/s640/feed-dogs-2019-01-02+13.16.28.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the presser foot removed, you can see the seven pieces of this feed dog.</td></tr>
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A walking foot, a.k.a an “even feed foot”, is a nice addition to any machine (I’ve written about them before). The Accufeed system on a Janome, the Dual Feed system on a Bernina, and the IDT system on a Pfaff (the original integrated upper/lower feed system) will perform a similar function with even better results, their admirers say.<br />
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2. Presser Foot with Adjustable Pressure</h4>
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More important than the feed dogs, I think, is the ability to adjust the pressure of the presser foot. This can be useful for a variety of fabrics. Most of the sweater knits I sew require the lightest pressure. <br />
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Some machines claim to automatically adjust the pressure but I’ve heard complaints. Don’t buy one of these unless you can override and adjust it manually.<br />
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3. Height of the Presser Foot</h4>
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This only comes into play for the bulkier sweater knits. As a rule of thumb, you want to be able to lift the foot high enough to easily slide 4 layers of fabric beneath, even if 3 is the most you’ll probably sew through.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2Z0-dgqnlu02gqYxDwqrmt8eqNwm-2zkreYtZrXvU2wDUyFHDdLqwG20Ugw1k3UQUZwKaDuG6E7-mH7DkkrPMCkO6r27M8NhJzWRfeQtMuKnYlQb96IERX2P8-5tjhJ5aHzXOfSdGPg/s1600/presser-ft-pos.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="639" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2Z0-dgqnlu02gqYxDwqrmt8eqNwm-2zkreYtZrXvU2wDUyFHDdLqwG20Ugw1k3UQUZwKaDuG6E7-mH7DkkrPMCkO6r27M8NhJzWRfeQtMuKnYlQb96IERX2P8-5tjhJ5aHzXOfSdGPg/s640/presser-ft-pos.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From left, presser foot in lower position, upper position, and manually lifted above the normal upper position.</td></tr>
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4. Zigzag Stitches</h4>
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<b>Fancy stitches aren’t necessary for sweater knits.</b> You really only need zigzag and straight stitches. You could probably even get by without the straight stitch! <br />
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It's helpful if the width of the zigzag can be adjusted down to 0.5mm or 0.75mm (my default for sewing sweater knits). However, I once taught with electronic machines that wouldn’t allow a width adjustment below 2.5 mm. It still worked for the seam and was acceptable from the public side.<br />
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As most experienced sewists will tell you, the best way to choose a machine is by testing it at the dealer’s showroom. Bring samples of true sweater knit fabrics to try out: thick sweater fabric and a thin lacy sweater knit. Your sewing machine doesn’t need to be the most expensive and it doesn’t need a variety of stitches. The first machine I ever sewed a sweater knit with was a low-end Singer (manufactured in the '80s). I never needed a walking foot, but the range of sweater knits I sewed back then was small. By testing the machine out ahead of time you can make sure you get one that will work with you for years no matter how your style and sewing evolves. </div>
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<i>O!</i><br />
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<i>Interested in an online workshop devoted strictly to sewing sweater knits? Learn about my online course <a href="https://workshop.ojolly.net/p/how-to-cut-and-sew-a-sweater/?preview=logged_out" target="_blank">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a>.</i></div>
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O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-61684430636037570992018-11-24T13:18:00.000-05:002019-01-12T12:50:34.650-05:00Luscious Sweater Knits Extra - Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3AEkv-T7ikD2S-KsTKeN-bmwoQIO_7d7529ESmC_Ykj2IZi5JnxX4O30OR6L2c92n-RjGLcbRuIWeA0zW3Ki9E7tQl57DMx0d9WAo7aqdsX-EKmgP7H3WIAdY0bWPASCBLtIKKoU2ts/s1600/ojolly-wash-sq-pullo-2018-11-23+12.05-600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3AEkv-T7ikD2S-KsTKeN-bmwoQIO_7d7529ESmC_Ykj2IZi5JnxX4O30OR6L2c92n-RjGLcbRuIWeA0zW3Ki9E7tQl57DMx0d9WAo7aqdsX-EKmgP7H3WIAdY0bWPASCBLtIKKoU2ts/s1600/ojolly-wash-sq-pullo-2018-11-23+12.05-600.jpg" /></a></div>
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If you happen to have a copy of the current issue of <i>Threads Magazine</i> (#200, January 2019) on hand, please turn to page 32. You'll see my article! It’s titled “Luscious Sweater Knits” and I’m so excited to contribute to this long-running publication that’s a trusted source of information for the home sewist. Some of my best cutting and sewing tips for sweater knits are in the article. These aren't all methods used in the cut and sew sweater industry; some are techniques I’ve adapted to work on equipment similar to what you have at home. In this post I’d like to take you behind the scenes and give you a little background to the article.<br />
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For the "Luscious Sweater Knits" I sewed two full sweaters and almost a dozen small samples to demonstrate various techniques. I thought I’d be required to sew garments made solely from commercial sewing patterns, but when I finally asked my editor she actually encouraged me to use my own design. I ended up using one design of my own (a cardigan) and one commercial pullover pattern. The cardigan featured in the article is based on my tried and true sweater block (you know… the one you see again and again on this blog). The pullover (pictured above) is the <a href="https://sewhouse7.com/collections/alberta-skirt/products/copy-of-the-toaster-sweaters-pdf-or-paper-pattern" target="_blank">Toaster Sweater</a> (version 2) by Sew House Seven. It’s the type of sweater pattern I like -- basic, no fancy seams, but with a few interesting details. The pattern was released a couple of years ago, so I know there have been many versions sewn.<br />
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For my sweater I used <a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/product/wool-textured-washington-square-knit-by-the-half-yard">O! Jolly! Washington Square</a> sweater knit in deep raspberry. (I love this color!) I’ve always wanted to use this fabric, and I can’t believe it’s taken me so long! I enjoy working with wool because it’s stretchy and sometimes not as prone to fraying as other sweater knits of similar stitch structure (after <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2015/10/loving-wool-prepping-wool.html">proper preparation</a>). Though the pattern is called the Toaster Sweater, “sweater knit” isn’t one of the recommended fabrics. However, it does recommend “mid to heavy weight stretch fabrics with at least 20% stretch” and Washington Square fits the bill, with approximately 25% stretch. <br />
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When making a basic sweater I usually draft my own pattern but the Toaster 2 has a few clever details I probably wouldn’t have included, so I had lots of fun cutting and sewing this pattern. An interesting feature of my Washington Square Toaster is the subtly scalloped top edge and hems due to the nature of this particular fabric, as well as the way I chose to lay out the pattern pieces. I've also begun hand embroidering an “O!” into the collar of the sweaters I make.<br />
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Here are the four modifications I made to the pattern:<br />
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<li>Since I was using a true sweater knit, I didn’t fold the fabric. Rather, I cut the sweater flat as I do with all sweater knits and most other knits, too. It's especially important with Washington Square since it has both smooth and highly textured areas. The stitch pattern is essentially a plaid, created with texture instead of color, so it is much easier to match when cutting flat. </li>
<li>I increased the length of the sleeves by 2 inches, as requested by the editor, for model sizing.</li>
<li>I stabilized the shoulder seams with fusible interfacing. Fun fact -- I had committed myself to following the written instructions as much as possible and, because there were no instructions for adding stabilization, I forgot to add interfacing when sewing the shoulders. I didn’t realize this until the sweater was completed so I added interfacing at the end with a (somewhat sloppy) stitch in the ditch from the right side and by slip stitching the edges on the inside (I didn’t think the fusing would hold if applied after the shoulders was sewn).</li>
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<li>I hand sewed the hems (bottom, neck, and sleeve) by hand with a catch stitch using yarn harvested from scraps. I stabilized the hems with a thin mesh, machine basted inside the hem (as described in the <i>Threads</i> article).</li>
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What I would have done differently, besides adding shoulder stabilization earlier, is use a thread in my serger that is a closer color match for my fabric. I used MaxiLock Stretch and it only comes in limited colors. Since I went through the extra work of hand stitching the hems with matching yarn I should have found a matching thread, even if it wasn't a woolly, stretch thread. I think it looks a little odd to see the brighter fuschia poking out unevenly between the catch stitches but I’m not really too disturbed about it. <br />
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Soon I’ll write another post on the preparation and sewing of the cardigan featured in the article. Meanwhile, if you haven't already, I invite you to check out my article in issue #200 of <i>Threads.</i> The <a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2018/12/07/sew-luscious-sweater-knits" target="_blank">article is also available online</a>. And if you'd like to dive more deeply into working with sweater knits, be sure you're on <a href="http://ojolly.net/sewsweaters" target="_blank">the list</a>!</div>
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O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-59538119784392444862018-10-24T17:49:00.001-04:002020-11-22T13:35:01.740-05:00Taming the Bulk When Sewing Bulky Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiitWW7vcDGqnA8izHAq9NDMcyqTUfCeUuMB1nC6mQIVqAUAa5ZWEH07JVEfhV-HsMohH5LpCy-K7DTU0wGDn_EP8PuFhSLFcYfIGVk_NUXxBFfheKgpKLuYSa65gFNDVHWMXg2kQaeOJk/s1600/5-ltwt-cottons-2018-08-08+16.22.06-1200-ti.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiitWW7vcDGqnA8izHAq9NDMcyqTUfCeUuMB1nC6mQIVqAUAa5ZWEH07JVEfhV-HsMohH5LpCy-K7DTU0wGDn_EP8PuFhSLFcYfIGVk_NUXxBFfheKgpKLuYSa65gFNDVHWMXg2kQaeOJk/s640/5-ltwt-cottons-2018-08-08+16.22.06-1200-ti.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Any fabric proprietor will tell you, we love seeing what sewists make with the fabrics* we sell. As a designer/developer of the fabrics, seeing these creations is an extra treat. A couple of weeks ago a sewist emailed to tell me of a technique she was using with my sweater knits to keep seam allowances flat and comfortable. Learning how happy she was with the sweater she sewed and seeing pictures of her beautiful result was so very extra special!<br />
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The fabric Shirley Livingston worked with (top, O! Jolly! Hudson sweater knit in persimmon, which Shirley purchased from Emma One Sock) was, what I consider, a lightweight sweater knit. Still, at about 10 stitches per inch, it's considerably heavier than most standard dress knits. Shirley carefully planned her sweater. Of course she carefully planned her seam allowances, too. Here's what she did:<br />
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<li>Sew the seam with the sewing machine.</li>
<li>Overlock each seam allowance separately.</li>
<li>Steam the seam open.</li>
<li>Tack the seam allowances down with a catch stitch.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-a9e8HR7yZPZ7dSc6KOazVyVsXMuPuuJSse0gYwIXZNC4pLZG6Us1d3zWl3zMKMh-9l5H7mvkjA7nt2Zyu2MRFivRvJfqAm88B3nThzCLCA2DOkX846aKiHOmK6gpMu7D8Mtft6BvqkE/s1600/ojolly-sa-flat-catch-stitch-2018-10-24+16.33.14-800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-a9e8HR7yZPZ7dSc6KOazVyVsXMuPuuJSse0gYwIXZNC4pLZG6Us1d3zWl3zMKMh-9l5H7mvkjA7nt2Zyu2MRFivRvJfqAm88B3nThzCLCA2DOkX846aKiHOmK6gpMu7D8Mtft6BvqkE/s640/ojolly-sa-flat-catch-stitch-2018-10-24+16.33.14-800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes, just that easy and straightforward! As with so many useful techniques, after you learn it, you often say, “Hey, why didn’t I think of that!”<br />
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In the video below, I show this and a couple more seam allowance treatments. Feel free to ask questions in the comments. If you need a more detailed explanation, I’ll head you in right direction.<br />
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I really love the look and feel of the bulky sweater knits. If you do too, use these methods to keep those seam allowances under control. Need the notes on these techniques? <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/cce0c02d66" target="_blank">Get your free download here!</a><br />
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<i>*The cotton sweater knits pictured at the top of this post are unavailable this fall/winter, while we do some much needed reorganizing at O! Jolly! Looking for wool? Or natural, no elastic, cotton sweater knit ribbing? No worries. </i><a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/" style="font-style: italic;" target="_blank">We got that!</a> :)<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Last update 27Feb2019</span>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-74915753497624132512018-09-27T12:28:00.001-04:002021-02-08T20:06:36.382-05:00Three Practices Used in Ready-to-Wear Sweaters You Might Not Want to Use at Home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zU2sUuqI0UPP8Oh4QxzRf3gqY12bJRfEPbWrus3HQ_8a66J1nqjJuUDYr3joWSBNX9nIOpKASaahUxsQgn3641R1c0oO_rwD_NzCg3_UpdIzs7YzXtjSAQfGM114cUPvRvSdkOpLOb8/s1600/ojolly_wooljerspine21.20.01D-800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zU2sUuqI0UPP8Oh4QxzRf3gqY12bJRfEPbWrus3HQ_8a66J1nqjJuUDYr3joWSBNX9nIOpKASaahUxsQgn3641R1c0oO_rwD_NzCg3_UpdIzs7YzXtjSAQfGM114cUPvRvSdkOpLOb8/s640/ojolly_wooljerspine21.20.01D-800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Except for the rich greens of the heathered yarn, the wool jersey above is very close to what William Lee might have knitted on his invention, the <a href="https://quatr.us/modern-europe/knitting-machines-luddites-history-clothing.htm">knitting frame</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDGB_14-zudAmFT2VHz7K-n_yoqsi2khKcChoXSd_tPdT9l3WIK6gb6Cj8N55pV-nxtAtbBhFxESgIpDoDQdcAsQVLjAawSMTyVCgEpNqETK7HFeLwE1P0-pgTq65KoEFzPjnFUGTmXw/s1600/Stocking_Frame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDGB_14-zudAmFT2VHz7K-n_yoqsi2khKcChoXSd_tPdT9l3WIK6gb6Cj8N55pV-nxtAtbBhFxESgIpDoDQdcAsQVLjAawSMTyVCgEpNqETK7HFeLwE1P0-pgTq65KoEFzPjnFUGTmXw/s640/Stocking_Frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Knitting frame, exhibited at the Framework Knitters' Museum in Ruddington, England. Photo credit: John Beniston at <a class="external text" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/">en.wikipedia</a>, <a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0" title="Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0">CC BY-SA 3.0</a>, <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7588763">Link</a></span></div>
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Soon after the invention of this precursor to the knitting machine, cut and sew knitwear (made from yardage produced on a knitting frame) gained a reputation for being poorly made and not as desirable as fully fashioned sweaters. In those early years full fashioning (shaping the garment with a series of knitted increases and decreases) could only be accomplished with hand knitting.<br />
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Though most ready-to-wear (RTW) full fashioned sweaters are now knitted in factories on industrial machines, factory-made cut and sew sweaters still have the reputation of being cheaply made. Some of the time the reputation is deserved. Quality sweater making, where the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GU1a3JXVI2I">cutting and sewing is used strategically</a>, does exist, however. Handmade sweaters, of course, are still highly valued today. <br />
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(There’s also another industrial knitting technique currently used to produce sweaters. Special advanced machines can produce knitwear in one piece with few or no seams. Sometimes referred to as 3D knitting, this category of knitting was first introduced by the Japanese company Shima Seiki under the trademarked name of <a href="http://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/">wholegarment</a> knitting.)<br />
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Making a cut and sew sweater at home is another story. It’s not really the same as factory produced cut and sew. <b>You do it your way!</b> Make it quickly and easily on the overlocker, or sew with great attention to detail and clean finishes. The latter is especially good when using a luxurious fabric or if fit is crucial. You can also use any combination of these methods in the same garment. <br />
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While many industrial cut and sew techniques easily transfer to home sewing, here are three practices used in RTW production that I don’t usually use on my own sweaters.<br />
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The Neckband Seam on the Side</h3>
Ever notice how there’s almost always a seam on the left side of the neckband on a ready-to-wear cut and sew sweater? It’s because of the way they're constructed at the factory. The neckband is attached after the right shoulder is sewn but before the left shoulder is sewn. A neckband can be quickly attached this way, because the sewing is practically in a straight run. It’s very efficient and that seam on the left side becomes a continuation of the shoulder seam. Nice.</div>
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Nice, except that I rarely make my sweaters this way. I find that since I’m usually stretching the neckband to fit the neckline, I get a more evenly distributed band by <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/03/sewing-finished-edge-rib-band-to.html">dividing my band and neckline in fourths and placing the neckband seam in the back</a>. (See video at end of that post.) If I’m doing a v-neck, I place the seam at the front v. Also, I love the look of bulky knits and I’ve learned to love working with them.<b> Avoiding a major intersection of bulk in such a visible place is always my goal.</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTIb9rg1FtfEkxGZjQ3S4-RDzXShNttIj52JAZFn21Yofu60BoK_KKWAb91NwIn85qObj6FK2HVT6-sN75g2e_Sv_nmZueWACOsV1vsl8rKkdzGFERKQX61spI-aCgDY7IOlBL5j7CXqY/s1600/intersections.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="732" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTIb9rg1FtfEkxGZjQ3S4-RDzXShNttIj52JAZFn21Yofu60BoK_KKWAb91NwIn85qObj6FK2HVT6-sN75g2e_Sv_nmZueWACOsV1vsl8rKkdzGFERKQX61spI-aCgDY7IOlBL5j7CXqY/s640/intersections.png" width="580" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neckband seams on sweaters</td></tr>
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<h3>
Sewing Sleeves in Flat</h3>
I love sewing sleeves in flat as is done in production sewing of sweaters. With this method, after the second shoulder is sewn and before the side seams are sewn, each sleeve is attached to the garment at the top. The underarm seam and side seams are then sewn in one run from cuff to hem. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj16aatU4vZ8suZAMuJW072jj5U97_NGp1nAYB1iVCej_IW3WkKEx_L996RzZ9PgRYLpfcLJwEQPAfjAjL_Sga11v119Qebi_6MX1LUS9t0HuuOuRvBUf7uGKQWF44J9tkZJHov_6XFvjI/s1600/flat_sleeve_attach_lt_bkgd_mini.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1266" data-original-width="1468" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj16aatU4vZ8suZAMuJW072jj5U97_NGp1nAYB1iVCej_IW3WkKEx_L996RzZ9PgRYLpfcLJwEQPAfjAjL_Sga11v119Qebi_6MX1LUS9t0HuuOuRvBUf7uGKQWF44J9tkZJHov_6XFvjI/s640/flat_sleeve_attach_lt_bkgd_mini.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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However, if I’m unsure of fit when working with an unfamiliar fabric or a totally new pattern I’ll sew up the side seams with a basting stitch first and <b>check the fit before the sleeves are attached</b>. I always baste with garment colored thread so I don’t need to remove stitches if the sweater fits. Then, with side seams sewn, once I'm happy with the fit, I set in my sleeves.<br />
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<rant> Are any flat pattern makers who make commercial sweater patterns specifically for home sewists reading this? Some of you put far too much ease in the sleeve cap. It’s truly not needed for a sweater knit. Really! Unless it’s a design for puffy sleeves, sweaters don’t require ease in the sleeve cap. There. I said it. Thank you for listening. Feel free to email me to discuss further. </rant><br />
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The Three-Eighths Inch Seam Allowance</h3>
I’m willing to use the three-eighths inch seam allowance only on certain types of sweater knits: anything that doesn’t fray too much like a relatively stable double knit jacquard (perhaps in wool). Some people do just fine with ⅜ inch seam allowances, I know, and it’s used successfully in industry. But my advice for anyone new to cutting and sewing sweater knits is to increase the seam allowance to one-half inch or more. For one thing, sewing close to the edge can result in rippling seams when using particular fabrics and sewing machines. If your fabric tends to fray and you need to make adjustments that involve unpicking a seam more than once, your entire seam allowance can become a bunch of scraggly, unknitted threads. Honestly, this has never happened to me because... I take precautions. But it can happen! Be kind to yourself. Increase a ⅜ inch seam allowance before you cut.<br />
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I know that making a garment look like ready-to-wear is the goal for some sewists. I say learn from professionally made garments but, when you can, take time for fitting and careful construction. You may just find your sweater looking better than ready-to-wear.<br />
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Further Reading</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.masondixonknitting.com/seamless-knitting-pros-cons/">Seamless Knitting: Pros and Cons</a> -- Not the industrial brand of “<a href="http://www.santoni.com/en-macchine-sheet.asp?idm=268">seamless knitting</a>”, this is the hand knitted kind. I particularly agree with number 4 of the Cons.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.technologyreview.com/s/604102/3-d-knitting-brings-tech-to-your-sweaters-for-a-price/">3-D Knitting Brings Tech to Your Sweaters - for a Price</a> -- This is written from the perspective of a non-knitting, non-fashion person on the MIT Technology Review site.</li>
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Learning the Skills</h3>My online course How to Cut and Sew a Sweater will teach you the skills to sew sweater knits with confidence and ease. <a href="http://workshop.ojolly.net/p/how-to-cut-and-sew-a-sweater" target="_blank">Get more information here.</a><br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-83994122764407772992018-09-15T23:47:00.000-04:002019-07-09T11:24:25.004-04:00Tips for Using Commercial Sewing Patterns with Sweater Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfHNy3q2CgXNe4e7kiyPVsM-Xv9FtkomlbXAm5Ob_KX9AqU2hbiCBbyzOcDeYV6UE78mSVGWH-0rAegPEBTnDjcfm6x_A0CLhT5Hm7kAqWLJCo3tKKQOjq0GvKhNUIbpmSkF19Xp-RCg/s1600/bluemoonren13.40.34-640nologo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfHNy3q2CgXNe4e7kiyPVsM-Xv9FtkomlbXAm5Ob_KX9AqU2hbiCBbyzOcDeYV6UE78mSVGWH-0rAegPEBTnDjcfm6x_A0CLhT5Hm7kAqWLJCo3tKKQOjq0GvKhNUIbpmSkF19Xp-RCg/s640/bluemoonren13.40.34-640nologo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I love it when someone reaches out to me with a question about sweater knits -- either about making them or sewing them. And if I don't have the answer, there are usually a couple people I can ask, who can provide an answer or at least give a suggestion that will lead the inquirer in a good direction. I feel that <i>I</i> end up learning when someone asks a good question, even if I thought I already knew the answer. The act of composing an answer makes me organize my thoughts. I also think about the process or situation a little more carefully and with a different point of view. I'm inspired to try new things.<br />
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The question I get asked most often is, <b>"What's a good sewing pattern to use with sweater knits?"</b> I used to not have an answer, because I didn't use commercial sewing patterns. In the old days, all the sweaters I made were fully fashioned; that is, I used to shape each piece on the knitting machine as I constructed the fabric, analogous to the way a hand knitter makes pieces of a sweater. When I started making sweaters with the cut and sew method, I simply used my own pattern blocks, either freshly drafted or traced from an old sweater or t-shirt. I'd start my answer to the question with another question. "Do you have a t-shirt pattern?" I'd ask. "You can use that," I'd say. And if a t-shirt has a fit you'd like for a sweater with deep enough armholes, it can work.<br />
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Back in 2013 I was asked that question so often, I thought I'd better try a sweater knit with a commercial t-shirt pattern and see how I really liked it. In 2013, there were no <a href="https://sewhouse7.com/collections/paper-patterns-1/products/copy-of-the-toaster-sweaters-pdf-or-paper-pattern" target="_blank">Toasters</a> or <a href="https://sewhouse7.com/collections/paper-patterns-1/products/the-tabor-v-neck-sewing-pattern-paper-pattern" target="_blank">Tabors</a> to recommend. There were no <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/new-additions/products/megan-longline-cardigan" target="_blank">Megans</a> or <a href="https://helenscloset.ca/product/blackwood-cardigan-pdf-pattern/" target="_blank">Blackwoods</a>. The first commercial pattern I ever used for a sweater was indeed a t-shirt pattern, <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2013/05/renfrew-top-o-jolly-fabric.html">Sewaholic's Renfrew Top</a>, pictured at the top of this post. Why I chose a pattern company that catered to the "pear-shaped woman", when I'm more of a rectangle, I don't know. But it was the #1 pattern of the year on Pattern Review at the time when I was looking for a pattern. I felt confident that I could easily alter the pattern to fit me, which I did. I also made another change to the pattern. I'll get to that one in a moment. What was important was that when someone asked me for a recommendation, I could recommend from personal experience.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAk2KOCQZTu9DzJbZ0l3wpjSuqwx9T5zcXvrW8jpXfdTMZSI6rCBOhdhZ4eIW4YKOyJFwgFzFQlwJA0olw93AHHOjuXumY02jYtLEBsFrbBu3XeCQG0D4QIsy6tBAcTZAi0OVtHnPo10/s1600/lilysage2-3f3b-640.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAk2KOCQZTu9DzJbZ0l3wpjSuqwx9T5zcXvrW8jpXfdTMZSI6rCBOhdhZ4eIW4YKOyJFwgFzFQlwJA0olw93AHHOjuXumY02jYtLEBsFrbBu3XeCQG0D4QIsy6tBAcTZAi0OVtHnPo10/s640/lilysage2-3f3b-640.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lilysageandco.com/2016/05/a-megan-longline-cardi-in-an-o-jolly-knit/" target="_blank">Debbie of Lily Sage & Co sews a Megan Cardigan in O! Jolly fabric</a>, definitely not a t-shirt sewing pattern!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZT7oEnpjGgQ9jn9bPo9PnQ7XhOFdyQKVxy271qCb8dRrKh2Uo5K1qQQAGiYvefte2Q33UkjeRCC6TQ4rCeGBSY7GIngevT7wzxP2IEnejXxgXsbpyqGlR2wyYzspnTzh44CQh0TE3FHw/s1600/ht_sides-800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZT7oEnpjGgQ9jn9bPo9PnQ7XhOFdyQKVxy271qCb8dRrKh2Uo5K1qQQAGiYvefte2Q33UkjeRCC6TQ4rCeGBSY7GIngevT7wzxP2IEnejXxgXsbpyqGlR2wyYzspnTzh44CQh0TE3FHw/s640/ht_sides-800.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My self-drafted basic top with lace instead of cuffs and bands</td></tr>
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My <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/ojolly/commercial-sewing-patterns-suitable-for-sweater-kn/" target="_blank">Pinterest board of commercial sewing patterns suitable for sweater knits</a> now has 81 pins. (No, I haven't tried them all.)<br />
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<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/ojolly/commercial-sewing-patterns-suitable-for-sweater-kn/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="947" data-original-width="1175" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghErpr8VTwnLUkoNh8ojT-DJRkhj12SeOSTdMaNv61m38ovQTtKDGpiscEnRkMLLcedLo8pxpaHy0y3Mhn91KBwPehvBQtuLlDy6wZtLFKShCHAHl-c7G1dcBNIcUd74zdrnQDNLdr3y0/s640/comm-patt.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the important part: <b>true sweater knits can vary greatly</b>. One sweater knit is not necessarily just like another. That's why sometimes your neckband can look a little wonky, even though you followed the pattern instructions correctly, and last time (with a different fabric), it was perfect. This variety in fabric behavior is what makes fabrics forever interesting and fun. And challenging. But readily managed. Please keep reading.<br />
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Yes, there are many commercial sewing patterns from the majors and independents that are suitable for sweater knits -- t-shirt patterns, sweatshirt patterns, and now more than ever, <b>patterns written specifically for sweater knits, both pullovers and cardigans</b>. Sometimes, depending on your particular fabric, a few good decisions and tiny tweaks can make your sweater, even better. If I had to choose my favorite tweak I make to commercial pullover patterns, it would be the <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2015/08/determining-length-and-width-of-rib.html" target="_blank">get-your-neckband-to-lie-flat-every-time tweak</a>.<b> </b>It's the same technique I used when making the Renfrew. It's a matter of going "off pattern" just a little <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2015/08/determining-length-and-width-of-rib.html" target="_blank">to determine a good length and width for the band</a> for the fabric you're using. Then you can go back to the pattern, following the instructions for neckband installation. Easy.<br />
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I've put together a group of <b>five more tips</b> that will help you sew a better sweater and made the list available as a <a href="https://pages.convertkit.com/7a61ca5554/7297006251" target="_blank">free download</a>. If you're interested in diving more deeply into the art of sweater sewing, be sure to join the list to learn about my online course <b>How To Cut and Sew a Sweater</b>.<br />
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Download <a href="https://pages.convertkit.com/7a61ca5554/7297006251" target="_blank"><b>5 Tips for Using Commercial Patterns with Sweater Knits</b></a> now.<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">This is an updated version of a post first published on this blog in July 2016</span>O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-11282344227297127012018-08-27T19:39:00.001-04:002018-08-28T20:38:06.839-04:00The Best Hem<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdubdlKHW8SfVGVrygRGumVqD1fdbby0ArHnpNGRe6QXup-Juw3waMn27I5BbKBfPMZLe39KDuizHyTd10VX9rURGC93zSkrO8l1fGwnKJepeyg3EJy1QaTqRx-XnMc7toXnjmph3VBzo/s1600/catch-st-match-vert-2018-08-25+17.16.13-600_mini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdubdlKHW8SfVGVrygRGumVqD1fdbby0ArHnpNGRe6QXup-Juw3waMn27I5BbKBfPMZLe39KDuizHyTd10VX9rURGC93zSkrO8l1fGwnKJepeyg3EJy1QaTqRx-XnMc7toXnjmph3VBzo/s1600/catch-st-match-vert-2018-08-25+17.16.13-600_mini.jpg" /></a></div>
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Of course there is no one best hem for all sweater knits. But, for each particular fabric, some hems are better than others depending the fabric’s properties. <br />
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I've done hem posts before. You already know that I use <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2016/03/the-little-things-folded-knit-hem-tape.html">hem tape</a> if the sweater knit is particularly bulky. I’ve been known to use a <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/01/how-to-sew-sweater-knit-hem-with-twin.html">twin needle</a> on lighter weight sweater knits. But I've recently started playing with the catch stitch and the slip stitch using self thread. Well... self yarn, actually. And by self yarn I mean the same yarn that was used to knit the fabric.<br />
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You may ask “how would I get that yarn if I didn’t knit my own fabric?” The answer is deknitting your fabric (unknitting or unraveling)! Really!<br />
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First, wait until the fabric is prepped. Though it’s easier to unravel the yarn beforehand, I prefer to do it at this point rather than take my chances with the yarn shrinking after I’ve sewn the hem. If there’s going to be any minor shrinking, I want it to happen to the fabric and sewing yarn at the same time, thus in the same amount. <br />
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After the yarn is deknitted, I mark the hem and trim the raw edge. I finished my raw edge with the overlocker and turn up the hem. In this case I’m using a <b>catch stitch</b>, which is very good for sweater knit hems. The more circuitous path the yarn (or thread) takes, the stretchier the stitch will be. So the catch stitch, with its back-stitch motion crossing back and forth, is an excellent hem for this fabric and other stretchy sweater knits.<br />
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/b_bupb6fo-8?rel=0&showinfo=0" width="560"></iframe><br />
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The <b>slip stitch</b> works nicely if the fabric isn’t as stretchy. I like to use it if I’m using the selvage to help finish an edge as in the picture below. In that case, the extra stretch of the catch stitch isn’t needed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7W77jQtkWgSIOYJEXBAIuuEhd_Uhh2gAVcM-OKCCkmuz0X5TDQjicKCFast5s0g9TkC3ngGebRzUI0wis-2p6LHe502HRXoEN4LIYfcJK4p6KRjjk8J4FktLmv32nLshwSp7KLnwkV74/s1600/selvage-sewn-18-08-25+18.40.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7W77jQtkWgSIOYJEXBAIuuEhd_Uhh2gAVcM-OKCCkmuz0X5TDQjicKCFast5s0g9TkC3ngGebRzUI0wis-2p6LHe502HRXoEN4LIYfcJK4p6KRjjk8J4FktLmv32nLshwSp7KLnwkV74/s1600/selvage-sewn-18-08-25+18.40.08.jpg" /></a></div>
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These methods are not used in ready-to-wear cut and sew sweater production. But if you enjoy handwork, they're some of the nice finishing touches you can use on your self sewn sweater. No matter which stitch you use, always finish with a good steaming. Hold the iron above the fabric and allow the steam to penetrate. Let the fabric dry before moving it and you’ve got the best hem.<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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P.S. My online course <a href="https://www.ojolly.net/sewsweaters" target="_blank">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a> opens again for registration in late September. <a href="https://www.ojolly.net/sewsweaters" target="_blank">Click for further information</a>.O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-54137444625390598142018-08-09T11:48:00.001-04:002020-07-29T22:50:57.562-04:00Updated<script>
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</script><a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2020/07/eye-candy-for-sweater-lovers.html" rel="nofollow">Click</a> if not automatically sent to updated article.O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-73134394541773995252018-07-15T19:55:00.002-04:002018-07-15T20:19:26.887-04:00The Completed Cobblestone Sweater<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyha337WMT9trm6tuXDRwHIatyG5sQar3PAMAvtCP3__IM0YI7ZTY_fHXSAY9xyz5mmg5OE6IL-gtRteimv8v58bNPm9oKELR3REUfXwoieUqIUV9_VBGgK1UehNP-Tu0pIEKKm4cVDM/s1600/Gray-Cobblestone426-600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyha337WMT9trm6tuXDRwHIatyG5sQar3PAMAvtCP3__IM0YI7ZTY_fHXSAY9xyz5mmg5OE6IL-gtRteimv8v58bNPm9oKELR3REUfXwoieUqIUV9_VBGgK1UehNP-Tu0pIEKKm4cVDM/s640/Gray-Cobblestone426-600.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
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With the heatwave and high humidity in New York City at the beginning of July, I wondered when exactly I’d have a chance to photograph my completed sweater. On the first Saturday of the month, however, I woke up to a mere 65 degrees. The humidity was low, the sky was blue, and I knew it was a perfect day for pics.<br />
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<a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/product/dyed-cotton-cobblestone-sweater-knit-by-the-half-yard" target="_blank">Cobblestone fabric</a> is 100% cotton, but it’s a little heavier than summer weight. It will be great for the fall. It was certainly perfect for a cool summer morning.<br />
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I’ve shown bits and pieces of the Cobblestone sweater in progress. You may even have seen a part of the sweater that’s no longer there! This was the original cuff, constructed with self fabric, the same pattern piece as the sleeve. But the sleeves were too long. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeQkJhl7y9-d_PdgRaz3xhxOFbRBywQPGc7bvTeMzA7MYD6_Q4afKNcFh1IiMOf4gMpIOYc2Sg2P9bGVa3g8VkDCgbhqQ9Y301807NFp1ZIaNFdJH4kmiH36a4L2NYz7K722vekMIG5I/s1600/gray-cuff-band-2018-05-14+18.12.45-600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeQkJhl7y9-d_PdgRaz3xhxOFbRBywQPGc7bvTeMzA7MYD6_Q4afKNcFh1IiMOf4gMpIOYc2Sg2P9bGVa3g8VkDCgbhqQ9Y301807NFp1ZIaNFdJH4kmiH36a4L2NYz7K722vekMIG5I/s640/gray-cuff-band-2018-05-14+18.12.45-600.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For sleeve version two <b>I cut the length and reduced the width at the bottom of the sleeve</b>. I then installed a more traditional cuff made from a <a href="https://shop.ojolly.net/product/dyed-cotton-cobblestone-sweater-knit-by-the-half-yard" target="_blank">finished edge rib band trim</a> like the neck band. The resulting sleeve was an inch shorter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw-aSuKHn9HYlfjscwrUypm5pSNUrWSVDMRqV-yDnKnWvLTmLDJEYxHybas-6BbtUwxawCvibzxsVfOTSjwgkAE5ZVZK7e2zfAfMUmwbyzWwLt18j6d-ZcCFnINwXpul4UhhCXMbWa2VQ/s1600/gray-cobble-cuff-final2018-07-15+13.30.20-640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw-aSuKHn9HYlfjscwrUypm5pSNUrWSVDMRqV-yDnKnWvLTmLDJEYxHybas-6BbtUwxawCvibzxsVfOTSjwgkAE5ZVZK7e2zfAfMUmwbyzWwLt18j6d-ZcCFnINwXpul4UhhCXMbWa2VQ/s640/gray-cobble-cuff-final2018-07-15+13.30.20-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The sweater is based on the <a href="https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7660" target="_blank">McCall’s 7660</a> I used for a demonstration this past spring in New Haven at the Northeast Machine Knitters’ Guild. Yes, these pattern pieces have been cut out and partially assembled for a few months now!<br />
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There’s an interesting detail in this pattern. Tiny gathers are drafted into the side seams at the bust. The gathers are imperceptible in the pictures and line drawings of the sweater and I assume this added ease is to accommodate larger bust sizes that might ordinarily require a full bust adjustment. I removed the extra ease and <b>cut my front piece the same size as the back, as I do when I draft my own patterns</b>. I didn’t think I’d need the ease and I worried it might mess up my stitch pattern matching. (Ha!)<br />
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I cut the longest length of the pattern, the one that was intended to have a hem. Then, instead of hemming, I added a rib band for even more length. My neckband is folded over and encloses the raw edge at the neckline. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkYXKSpKIxOp_93K5ZOWoZB-TzJzxtpNGi_of6m4wAX3Srev9ULq_BEV4FMdMN7gOs5ILsCKpf8LHoZgl0O40kpBIobTaoPgv3AXXkYTuEL_3EEGf78mp3Yymi30xcnTB2Vr8Lzd17xo/s1600/gray-cobblestone-neck-2018-05-20+11.47.09-600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkYXKSpKIxOp_93K5ZOWoZB-TzJzxtpNGi_of6m4wAX3Srev9ULq_BEV4FMdMN7gOs5ILsCKpf8LHoZgl0O40kpBIobTaoPgv3AXXkYTuEL_3EEGf78mp3Yymi30xcnTB2Vr8Lzd17xo/s640/gray-cobblestone-neck-2018-05-20+11.47.09-600.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I overlocked all seams using <a href="https://amzn.to/2u6rUQQ" target="_blank">Maxilock Stretch</a> [Amazon affiliate link] in the loopers. It’s a textured nylon thread that is “soft like yarn” as the label says. It’s similar to Woolly Nylon, except the Maxilock is slightly thinner and a little less expensive. <b>I highly recommend that the thread be used with <a href="https://amzn.to/2L4gXFR" target="_blank">Handy Nets</a></b> [Amazon affiliate link)] <b>or similar thread socks.</b> Otherwise, the thread just might slip below the cone, become tangled on the thread stand, and break... again and again and again. (I have a brief history of knitting with slippery, translucent, monofiliament thread. Thread socks were mandatory, so I should have known better when using the relatively slippery Maxilock Stretch.) When using thread socks, be sure to tuck the excess net under and through the opening at the bottom of the cone, as in the picture below. The net should come no more than two-thirds of the way up the cone of thread. Once properly accessorized with nets, the thread sewed beautifully with no more breakage.<br />
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I’m thrilled to finally have finished a sweater! I'm currently in possession of four sweaters-in-progress. Two have a deadline and will be finished soon. The other two, well, I’ll get to them....<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk-gy5VBMr5/" data-instgrm-version="9" style="background: #fff; border-radius: 3px; border: 0; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.5) , 0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0 , 0 , 0 , 0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: 99.375%;">
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk-gy5VBMr5/" style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_blank">Blue skies and I finally got to wear my gray cobblestone cotton sweater. #isewsweaters #idesignfabric #makersgonnamake #makersgottamake #ojollyknits #cobblestonecotton #sweaterknit #ribbands</a></div>
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A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ojolly/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px;" target="_blank"> O! Jolly!</a> (@ojolly) on <time datetime="2018-07-08T16:09:27+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jul 8, 2018 at 9:09am PDT</time></div>
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<i>O!
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<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-49747343380372909312018-06-30T21:13:00.002-04:002020-08-16T11:38:31.359-04:00How Not to Fear Cutting Sweater Knits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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When discussing cut and sew sweaters, I spend most of my time talking about <i>sewing</i> sweater knits. The <i>cutting</i> part of “cut and sew” gets far less time on this blog. It is, however, an important topic. For some people, especially those with knitting experience, cutting is the part that can be filled with fear.<br />
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Knitters, having prior experience with dropped stitches, often get worried that runs will form in the fabric. To get past that, I recommend you <b>test the limits of the fabric before you start your project</b>. Cut a 6” x 6" square of your sweater knit and try to make it run. Give it a really good stretch lengthwise and crosswise and notice what happens. If the fabric does run, make a mental note of how much you had to stretch the fabric for that to happen. Chances are you won't be stretching it to that extent during construction. If it turns out you are working with the a fabric that runs easily, you simply need to handle it with care and perhaps <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2013/03/stabilizing-sweater-knit-fabric.html">stabilize the edges</a>.<br />
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But let's get back to the act of cutting. The basics of cutting a sweater knit are similar to those for cutting woven fabrics.<br />
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My favorite cutting tool is pictured above, the Black & Decker electric scissors. This wonderful tool has been discontinued, as I've mentioned previously on this blog. In its day, this hard working tool was really inexpensive (about $15) and it cut through sweater knits extremely well. The <a href="http://www.allbrands.com/products/39251" target="_blank">WBT1 Electric Scissors</a> have been recommended to me but I haven't tried them yet since I still have one pair of the B & D's in working order. The learning curve is surprisingly gentle with electric scissors, and I find them easier to use than rotary cutters or manual shears.<br />
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Since I’m trying to preserve my B & D’s, I save them for cutting lengths of fabric. I use a rotary cutter now for pattern cutting. A rotary cutter works well, with practice, but remember -- a sharp blade is mandatory! <br />
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My least favorite cutting tool has always been dressmaking shears! My current pair of <a href="https://amzn.to/2M6jxLE">bent-handled, “knife edge” Friskars</a> (Amazon affiliate link), however, can easily slice through even the heaviest sweater knit. Here are the important things to remember, when using shears: Always keep the bottom blade gliding along the table as you cut. With each cut, follow through to the tip of the blades to avoid jagged edges. I'm right handed so my left hand does whatever it takes to help keep the sweater knit fabric under control while I cut. It could be holding the cut-away fabric firmly on the cutting table or gently supporting a narrow strip away from the pattern piece I'm cutting. You may need different techniques, depending on which part of the pattern you're cutting.<br />
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Whichever tool or tools you use, they must be sharp or they'll chew up the fabric or stretch and distort the edges of the pattern pieces. I'm always on the lookout for other tools and tips, so <b>please recommend any favorites</b> you have.<br />
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All right then, no more fears! Need tips on <i>sewing</i> sweater knits? Download my <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/f2fff21007" target="_blank">Roadmap for Improved Sweater Knit Seams</a>.<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-15168165985828003892018-06-16T12:45:00.002-04:002018-06-17T20:48:11.728-04:00Burying the Thread Chain While Overlocking<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI31js4gWNNRej1zrImicd5FsNTNWr_E1O3KO2MtHCB389fSYRtIIVRrSxuDtJjDIoxHTuX2gDGRWMpwb0TAQvdpWD-AzRbnZNnvhyr8znPPH-soh70ici5x4EYImnFjjvwnq2WaiDXMc/s1600/bottom-of-cuff2018-06-10+12.36.11-640.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI31js4gWNNRej1zrImicd5FsNTNWr_E1O3KO2MtHCB389fSYRtIIVRrSxuDtJjDIoxHTuX2gDGRWMpwb0TAQvdpWD-AzRbnZNnvhyr8znPPH-soh70ici5x4EYImnFjjvwnq2WaiDXMc/s1600/bottom-of-cuff2018-06-10+12.36.11-640.jpg" /></a></div>
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If you are using a serger or overlocker to construct or finish your sweater, at some point you’ll need to hide your thread ends. Fortunately there are several ways to deal with this.<br />
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First, if you’re doing another seam that intersects your thread chain, just leave the chain alone. It will automatically get cut off and secured as you serge the intersecting seam. Easy!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfOX9oErjnbuL53Xf-UCoQCz2dwdCEvi8N-ut6S6lSaD6zaW3HUih-TBjU9pWmAG-DwKnAv_mtIzcaFLRQUkszia-QKXadasJIfmFu3wd3nE-p_fQyMNFf-iRPG7_hD2pbnZRhD-dNs0/s1600/overlock_intersect.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="511" data-original-width="594" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfOX9oErjnbuL53Xf-UCoQCz2dwdCEvi8N-ut6S6lSaD6zaW3HUih-TBjU9pWmAG-DwKnAv_mtIzcaFLRQUkszia-QKXadasJIfmFu3wd3nE-p_fQyMNFf-iRPG7_hD2pbnZRhD-dNs0/s640/overlock_intersect.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The knife (adjacent to the presser foot) will trim the intersecting thread chain as it trims the fabric. </td></tr>
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If you’re not intersecting that seam, you can use a needle or mini latch hook and simply pull the threads back through your stitches.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIFamLa4tHKyPnoAxfdrosO7ydf98WtwSut78H4gg46sHy9_je5LBdEDrIqza62vyyVKQbtYqG2LUdA0ktEp3OObz_hxGkyfiK54_a7T210kU-169d9gt8-Y0Qljj5bZNunZRraWeKuPY/s1600/mini-latch2018-06-10+12.14.08-640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIFamLa4tHKyPnoAxfdrosO7ydf98WtwSut78H4gg46sHy9_je5LBdEDrIqza62vyyVKQbtYqG2LUdA0ktEp3OObz_hxGkyfiK54_a7T210kU-169d9gt8-Y0Qljj5bZNunZRraWeKuPY/s640/mini-latch2018-06-10+12.14.08-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm one of those people whose thumb bends backward. Now you know. :-)</td></tr>
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When working with an area such as the bottom of a <a href="http://shop.ojolly.net/product/rib-bands-for-cobblestone-sweater-knit" target="_blank">finished edge</a> sleeve cuff as in the pic at the top of this post, you can always resort to the needle or mini latch hook technique.<br />
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If you plan ahead, however, you can get a very quick and neat finish at the <b>start of your seam</b>. Here’s how:<br />
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<li>Start with a chain of stitches, at least 3 inches long, coming off your serger.</li>
<li>Lift the presser foot up and slip your fabric underneath as usual.</li>
<li>Let it feed through until the needle(s) enters the fabric.</li>
<li>Lift the presser foot and pull the thread chain off the finger (the metal piece that looks like horizontal needles around which the thread chains are formed). Bring the chain around the outside of the foot (The thread chain is now running towards you.) and in front of the blade.</li>
<li>Lower the presser foot and continue to stitch.</li>
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The thread chain will get enclosed in the stitches and the knife will cut the chain off. Congratulations, you have “automatically” buried the chain at the start of your overlocking.<br />
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In my previous post I demonstrated how to keep <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/06/serging-that-last-inch.html" target="_blank">the last inch of your overlock stitch from stretching out your fabric</a>. This method of burying the thread chain before you start a seam can easily be combined with the method I showed in that post.<br />
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So how do you “automatically” bury the overlocker thread tail at the <b>end of a seam</b>?<br />
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<ol>
<li>Stitch to the end of your seam, then stitch one or two stitches beyond your fabric. (I sometimes turn the handwheel manually for greater accuracy.)</li>
<li>Pull the thread chain off the fingers. Flip the fabric toward you, so that the top of the fabric is on the bottom now and the bottom is up.</li>
<li>Place fabric under the presser foot alongside the blade, not in front of it. (No need to trim the fabric anymore.)</li>
<li>Stitch about an inch, then angle off the side of the fabric.</li>
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You now have an “automatically” buried chain at the end of your stitches. Practice these techniques for fun and efficient overlocking!<br />
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Interested in more sweater sewing techniques? <span style="background-color: #ffe599;">Learn about my online course <a href="https://www.ojolly.net/sewsweaters/" target="_blank">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a>, soon to open again for registration.</span><br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-80981870516751485572018-06-02T17:59:00.001-04:002022-11-01T13:02:48.189-04:00Serging That Last Inch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8ptA0ZnbrxNKx7EOtDcnn75X9rfsU5e_AMMLN5YcjgL7ccihKIbmCRetjyo5ZsUUFqFSHXr05j5Uqr2uK2IUOveTOKi4VyjtGS55BpI2CBZjtLwpv95GuCntX2RpRrqCT1tUGhV9Zs4/s640/Ojolly_serger_2_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8ptA0ZnbrxNKx7EOtDcnn75X9rfsU5e_AMMLN5YcjgL7ccihKIbmCRetjyo5ZsUUFqFSHXr05j5Uqr2uK2IUOveTOKi4VyjtGS55BpI2CBZjtLwpv95GuCntX2RpRrqCT1tUGhV9Zs4/s640/Ojolly_serger_2_01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the garment industry, the machine with needles and loopers that sews, trims, and finishes the fabric edge with thread all at once is known as a Merrow machine or overlocker. In the carpet industry, <a href="https://youtu.be/2xWvNiOgsow" target="_blank">the machine that finishes a carpet edge with threads, needle, and looper</a> is called a serger. Home sewists, based in the US as I'm sure you know, use that term as well. Industrial or domestic, it's an interesting and useful tool.<br />
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Where does the name “Merrow machine” come from? It's named after its inventor. According to the Merrow Sewing Machine Company, the first Merrow Crochet Machine was invented in 1868 by Joseph Millard Merrow to finish the top edges of men’s socks knitted at Merrow Mills in Hartford, Connecticut. After a century and a half of developing various sewing machine technologies, the company is now run by the great-grandnephews of the founder. The history is fascinating, and you can read about it<a href="http://www.merrow.com/overlock-history"> here</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjThcZ7vEza-uFcV1MrIhGLBMuieTBqp5Hvp8WHDot7whFb_fRt34w6oAQ3sDwc7uUY4jsblqvgvKVTmHErhnGqbZiMk5M77Q91pIfI_9YqvYONB4LW_KfTBKgYr2VdJ9wLL046gRwouoA/s1600/merrow_2017-08-25+13.45.58-640.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjThcZ7vEza-uFcV1MrIhGLBMuieTBqp5Hvp8WHDot7whFb_fRt34w6oAQ3sDwc7uUY4jsblqvgvKVTmHErhnGqbZiMk5M77Q91pIfI_9YqvYONB4LW_KfTBKgYr2VdJ9wLL046gRwouoA/s640/merrow_2017-08-25+13.45.58-640.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Today, of course, there are several manufacturers of machines that do overlock stitching and trimming. We use both Merrow machines and industrial Juki overlockers in the course I teach at FIT. Honestly, I've grown a little too fond of the Juki. From my Instagram feed...<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcV56RWnbgl/" data-instgrm-version="8" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 0px 0px 1px 0px, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.15) 0px 1px 10px 0px; margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0px; width: 99.375%;">
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BcV56RWnbgl/" style="color: black; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; overflow-wrap: break-word; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_blank">Using the Juki industrial overlockers has been a blast this semester. I've only done demos and sewn samples, but stripe matching sweater knits is a piece of cake with this machine. In fact I was really sad to return to my domestic serger until @sewbrooke pointed out one advantage of a domestic serger a couple of days ago -- special guide in the foot for attaching elastic. And so I've started to make a list of other things I like about my domestic serger: - It's portable. - It's slow. (Sometimes I like to sew slowly.) - I can put it away when I'm not using it. (Same as It's portable.) Hmm... anything else? #ilikebigmachines #andicannotlie #sewing #industrial #overlocker #serger #fitnyc #machineenvy</a></div>
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A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ojolly/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px;" target="_blank"> O! Jolly!</a> (@ojolly) on <time datetime="2017-12-06T01:25:22+00:00" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Dec 5, 2017 at 5:25pm PST</time></div>
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A serger isn’t mandatory for cutting and sewing sweater knit fabrics; there are other methods. Overlocking, however, is very efficient. It trims an edge then immediately stitches the fabric and finishes it with thread looped around the trimmed edge. Three tasks are completed with a single pass through the machine. Some say it’s not the prettiest edge on sweater knits, and they prefer a bound or covered finish on their seam allowances. I use whatever seems to work for the situation. I usually finish the insides of cardigans (where one might see the seams of an opened cardi) with bound or covered seam allowances. (#slowsewing... You won’t see this premium finish on commercially produced ready-to-wear cut and sew sweaters!) Pullovers are usually finished with a neatly overlocked edge.<br />
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My <a href="http://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/02/a-roadmap-for-improved-sweater-knit.html" target="_blank">Roadmap for Improved Sweater Knit Seams</a> guides you with most of the important tips for getting smooth seams when sewing sweater knits. A student in my<a href="https://workshop.ojolly.net/"> How to Cut and Sew a Sweater course</a>, however, encountered another issue that can sometimes come up. She was overlocking the edges of her fabric in preparation for washing it. While she was somewhat pleased because she had finally achieved a neat, non-rippling edge, the last inch or so continued to stretch out of shape.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQLTOckQubck3CoC8rlH3bZeODJTfKgXbqFRt1QF_zRNE7nEGGTLYhAccUy3bU0Lu7e1lcj-RigJrhzu3YobNocfIwGglWRzAC0RiJNx8-icXiJ3LsoKvGzO31OFqpKO0gdihKy_s2e0/s1600/tw-arrow-33513348_640.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQLTOckQubck3CoC8rlH3bZeODJTfKgXbqFRt1QF_zRNE7nEGGTLYhAccUy3bU0Lu7e1lcj-RigJrhzu3YobNocfIwGglWRzAC0RiJNx8-icXiJ3LsoKvGzO31OFqpKO0gdihKy_s2e0/s640/tw-arrow-33513348_640.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Student's photo, used with permission</td></tr>
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Now this is not a big deal when prepping fabric, but it’s of concern when it happens at the bottom of a side seam, for example! When this type of stretching occurs only at the end of a seam, you know your differential feed settings are probably correct. The major part of the overlocked seam looks good and there's no reason to further reduce the pressure of the presser foot. The trailing stretch happens when the front part of the presser foot is no longer supported by the fabric as you reach the end of the seam. (See pic below.) The front of the presser foot at this point sits directly on the feed dogs, and the back of the foot sometimes grabs onto that last inch of fabric, stretching it out of shape. Because sweater knits usually have a greater crosswise stretch, this situation can appear worse when stitching crosswise, as in my student's example above. I'll be demonstrating with a lengthwise seam, because this problem can be more noticeable at the bottom of a side seam.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekRX_pTyhuKL8y1AODacO3tvMai35Bppqhep6I4dSY-faw6aG9q0ylGhke6WjpKUGwP1eUMf6T5xMZ5ZI6X2lIfkxT1KBjguxJ9SmGTiMARUSgrrBYqOpswmOImVsf_6QpXIqz1TNR30/s1600/no-serge-end-2018-05-29+17.41.36-640.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekRX_pTyhuKL8y1AODacO3tvMai35Bppqhep6I4dSY-faw6aG9q0ylGhke6WjpKUGwP1eUMf6T5xMZ5ZI6X2lIfkxT1KBjguxJ9SmGTiMARUSgrrBYqOpswmOImVsf_6QpXIqz1TNR30/s640/no-serge-end-2018-05-29+17.41.36-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last inch where the front of the presser foot sits directly on the feed dog.</td></tr>
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So how do you fix that last bit?</div>
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Simple! To get rid of the pulled fabric at the end of the seam, <b>(1) serge up to the last 3 inches</b> or so and serge off to the side of the fabric. Then <b>(2) flip the fabric over and start the seam from the other end.</b> Overlap the stitches and serge off the side edge of the fabric again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7ZgCet1LzlrMCRg9Ad9hZ4LKcSnFlJF5UL6BZ1T4PpTJCa9yAa5PVRxSK4xUiTMQNMVGww1WmGCJJg1clh8R8Kl5vYG7GpmMBz9K3D34FbIJFZLxP5RyVqUOGWaWHmosPq3znaaAeSg/s1600/serge-2nd-pass-2018-05-29+17.57.54-640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7ZgCet1LzlrMCRg9Ad9hZ4LKcSnFlJF5UL6BZ1T4PpTJCa9yAa5PVRxSK4xUiTMQNMVGww1WmGCJJg1clh8R8Kl5vYG7GpmMBz9K3D34FbIJFZLxP5RyVqUOGWaWHmosPq3znaaAeSg/s640/serge-2nd-pass-2018-05-29+17.57.54-640.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It’s just that easy and keeps that unsightly stretch from happening.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZvDqCRSOf76D7gW0mp7X7PeyodSwL47gjOCMRgt41XTg8WlcQ6J9p9rDwdX2x4pFtUIqzoRGZAZWmUmT0_oLDN-P1AL4MlzlaW3MCunGO8zjaCBxaaIM1ESPPf2tb_kzpHr9TEi2CVMM/s1600/3serge-arrows.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="566" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZvDqCRSOf76D7gW0mp7X7PeyodSwL47gjOCMRgt41XTg8WlcQ6J9p9rDwdX2x4pFtUIqzoRGZAZWmUmT0_oLDN-P1AL4MlzlaW3MCunGO8zjaCBxaaIM1ESPPf2tb_kzpHr9TEi2CVMM/s640/3serge-arrows.png" width="482" /></a></div>
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For more tips and techniques on cutting and sewing sweater knits, be sure to <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/f2fff21007">join the list</a>. </div><div><br />
<i>O!</i><br />
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O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-76772221637188522492018-05-20T16:31:00.001-04:002020-06-22T09:46:28.530-04:00Another Sweater-in-Progress<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikK_bRdnA6OZPWzRaBwFZNiTgOaurz0lpE6B2TDhoct0ybFoHsDBiIt3TUrn6FbiDerhQPtGIlbIdtTENGjIyyfNYzVsRt75S-5aT9iytO0SdPTOtZsQA7LiCjXOXMLI3nRw1slFgfMms/s1600/gray-cobblestone-neck-2018-05-20+11.47.09-600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikK_bRdnA6OZPWzRaBwFZNiTgOaurz0lpE6B2TDhoct0ybFoHsDBiIt3TUrn6FbiDerhQPtGIlbIdtTENGjIyyfNYzVsRt75S-5aT9iytO0SdPTOtZsQA7LiCjXOXMLI3nRw1slFgfMms/s640/gray-cobblestone-neck-2018-05-20+11.47.09-600.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Even when my progress is in fits and starts, I enjoy the process of revisiting an old technique and adapting it to another fabric. In a recent <a href="https://o-jolly-llc.ck.page/5d4f3503ab" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">newsletter</a> I included two links to previous posts about “taming bulky seam allowances” so, I suppose, that topic has been very much on my mind. It's a common issue when working with bulky sweater knits. One thing I always consider is the squish factor. (Not a technical term, my definition of squish factor is the ability of a fabric to be easily squished or flattened.) The squish factor is usually greater with bulky wool than with bulky cotton. A thick, bulky wool is often full of air. It can have the magic power to squish down really well. It will flatten nicely when sewn and stay flattened.<br />
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Cotton, however, is heavier. Lovely as a cotton knit is, there’s often a lot more actual fiber there, not just an appearance of loft. Certain cotton knits have what I consider to be a low squish factor. In other words, they don't squish down well. Finishing a seam allowance on fabrics with this much bulk and a low squish factor sometimes requires extra work, which I rediscovered with this project.<br />
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I've been working to complete a sweater in luxurious gray <a href="http://shop.ojolly.net/product/dyed-cotton-cobblestone-sweater-knit-by-the-half-yard" target="_blank">Cobblestone sweater knit fabric</a>. The sweater began as a sample for a cut and sew presentation I made in April. For this sweater I decided to enclose the cut neckline with a double neckband. I’ve found that top stitching when enclosing a raw edge is often useful when there are thick layers. Because I enclosed the raw edge (pictured above), I steamed the seam allowance upward. If I had been using a simple binding at the neckline, I would've started without any seam allowance at all and wrapped the binding fabric closely around the neck edge. In this case, however, I’m making a crew neck with a 1.25” band. After sewing the seam, I sewed allowances together with a 3-step zigzag, in order to make the seam allowance flatter. My intention was for the zigzag to keep the seam allowance flat. I then trimmed the seam allowance close to the zigzag stitches. I now believe that grading the seam allowance (trimming the top layer of the seam allowance a little more than the bottom layer) before zigzagging might have been a better way to go. Don't get me wrong; I’m quite happy with the neatness of the neckline, but I know what I'll do next time.<br />
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Enclosing the seam allowance isn't necessary, as I demonstrated in my post <a href="https://www.craftingfashion.com/2018/03/sewing-finished-edge-rib-band-to.html">Sewing a Finished Edge Rib Band to a Sweater Neckline</a>. For that demo I used a relatively narrow, single band. A neatly finished seam allowance would be quite acceptable in that situation.<br />
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Here's the beautifully wide, <a href="http://lilysageandco.com/2018/04/three-steps-to-a-spring-dress/" target="_blank">single band treatment that Debbie Iles of Lily Sage & Co used</a> with cornflower blue Cobblestone. Because it's a single band, there's not as much bulk at the seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46qMfvAhI4NMZr75dNCyO7sVg7UsQLk2BRQdGrVkeqfrwD-aS6yMp4S27klwfASbgbgex-U1hNxNO_RoIlwcdLQMGWRhxb8LvUnU4giWKyREIhPAl9j43wd_V38XzIw7uC2Mui2hN7-4/s1600/ojo6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="736" height="614" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46qMfvAhI4NMZr75dNCyO7sVg7UsQLk2BRQdGrVkeqfrwD-aS6yMp4S27klwfASbgbgex-U1hNxNO_RoIlwcdLQMGWRhxb8LvUnU4giWKyREIhPAl9j43wd_V38XzIw7uC2Mui2hN7-4/s640/ojo6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b><b style="font-weight: normal;">In her blog post Debbie gives us a peek into her process as she develops her final look. Her finished dress pairs the Cobblestone sweater knit with a wonderful woven linen. Since I love discussing process, I really enjoyed following the documented steps Debbie takes in her project. Check it out. <a href="http://lilysageandco.com/2018/04/three-steps-to-a-spring-dress/" target="_blank">Debbie's final dress is gorgeous</a>. </b><br />
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Returning to my sweater-in-progress, I've used a band of self fabric for the sleeve finish. It turns out my sleeve seems a little long. I may be reworking it. Not sure yet.<br />
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The sweater's almost finished now. I’ll be sure to post pictures when it's done!<br />
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<i>O!</i><br />
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<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1133881954038008688.post-9084036326341960302018-04-30T00:01:00.003-04:002020-11-02T10:45:27.262-05:00How to Cut and Sew a Sweater - the Online Workshop<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJakyRG6NoghWV9_N82G_u-c6que8umGEeSTfyj97mTkPTVleEo3VgGgoJ1_ADCbxSNfzkVDosGCR52Qn4Hpo1zEYXUB4-jtJXbUQu8pi0jO5lYpFEuiRG-2Ax6NUHaMt1pEuCsGtgZLI/s1600/ojolly_3q_MG_8139-718x774_mini.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="718" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJakyRG6NoghWV9_N82G_u-c6que8umGEeSTfyj97mTkPTVleEo3VgGgoJ1_ADCbxSNfzkVDosGCR52Qn4Hpo1zEYXUB4-jtJXbUQu8pi0jO5lYpFEuiRG-2Ax6NUHaMt1pEuCsGtgZLI/s640/ojolly_3q_MG_8139-718x774_mini.jpg" width="593" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">Photo credit: Kevin Frest</td></tr>
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It was more than a year ago that I decided I wanted to create an online workshop on how to cut and sew sweater knits. Several people had asked me over the years whether or not I had any classes online or any DVD's. Other people (who happened to be Etsy teachers) had suggested I contact Etsy. But I decided that for my first venture into teaching on camera I wanted to produce the workshop independently. As with designing, knitting, and sewing, I think I became very interested in the process.<br />
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Just as I don't make all my own clothes, I don't think I'll always go the indie route, but there'll be more videos in the future. And this was indeed a very interesting process. I already had a bunch of experience in front of the camera (from my old showbiz days) and a little experience behind the camera (if we count my old days in animation). And so with a minuscule production team and a small pilot group of sewists, we created <a href="http://workshop.ojolly.net/" target="_blank">How to Cut and Sew a Sweater</a>.<br />
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The online workshop officially launched on April 28, 2018! (<a href="https://workshop.ojolly.net/p/how-to-cut-and-sew-a-sweater/?preview=logged_out" target="_blank"><i>Click for current registration info.</i></a>) I'm so pleased and exhausted (in a good way). <br />
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My goal with this course is to cover those pesky little and big things that can seem unpredictable and unmanageable when working with sweater knits: How do I keep my neckband from being floppy? How can I prevent my seams from rippling? Why does this hem flare out? How do I get my sweater to fit?<br />
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I worked to answer all those questions and more and to present the preparation, fitting, and construction of a pullover sweater in a systematic way. <a href="https://workshop.ojolly.net/p/how-to-cut-and-sew-a-sweater/?preview=logged_out">Registration is open.</a><br />
<br /><i>O!</i><br />
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<br />O! Jolly!http://www.blogger.com/profile/01452594415246998202noreply@blogger.com0