Our new master bedroom was a mere 11″ x 12″ and we thought mirror, on one wall, would do the trick in making it appear a bit larger.   Of course, having the wall mirrored professionally would have cost way more than we desired to spend.  I came up with another solution.

The most economical way that I have found to buy mirror is to purchase door mirrors, usually at a cost of $5 a piece.  I purchase the ones with a cheap plastic frame that are 1 x 4 feet in size.  I then peel off the paper backing and carefully pry the frame from the mirror.

My idea for the mirrored wall was to create a mosaic look with the mirror.  In this way, the sizes would not have to be perfect and I could cut the mirror as I pleased.  This method also would utilize the entire piece of each mirror.  Although, it would be more work, I chose not to paint the wall previously because I wanted the be assured that the mirror would adhere to the surface of the wall.

I began in one corner of the wall, cutting pieces and fitting them side by side leaving a 1/4′ gap between them.  The only time that I actually needed to measure the pieces was when I came to a door frame or when I meeting the ceiling, floor or other wall.  I would estimate that creating the whole wall utilized around 25 door mirrors and approximately four tubes of 10 oz. Liquid Nails Mirror Adhesive.

The final step was to paint the 1/4′ gaps that I had left between the mirror pieces.  This was a long and tedious process, but wiping the paint off the mirror as I went saved me a lot of clean up time.

The wall was finally done.  It is something that is totally unique and to our surprise the reflection on the other walls gives the whole room a look that we couldn’t have imagined.  For under $200, we have a mirrored wall that is both impressive and interesting to look at!

The paint you decide to use will give you different finishes.  For this chair I used 2 gallons of latex interior wall paint in a satin finish.  The wonderful advantage to using this paint is that you can match the color to virtually anything you desire.

Supplies needed: Upholstered furniture in need of a change, paint in your desired color, sponge brushes, medium and fine sanding blocks.

Step 1:  Use sponge brush to paint onto surface of furniture making sure to you follow direction of fabric, if there is one.

Step 2:  After completion of paint, use medium sanding block to smooth any burrs from fabric.

Step 3:  Go over entire surface with fine sanding block.

Step 4:  Second coat entire surface.  (Repeat steps 1 through 4 if desired.

Step 5:  Enjoy your *new* piece of furniture.

One of the endeavors I took on was to replace the fireplace.   Although, it might be to some peoples liking, it was too dark, too average, too ancient looking to me.   The peak of the design made me question what would possess someone to cut out two semi-circles in that matter.  It had to go.

One of the easiest things, that I find is the demolition.  I do have to admit, though that the quality of the wood was decent and I was tempted to save it.  But, alas we trashed it.  The brick itself I chose to leave as it would furnish us with a decent base to build upon.

My idea was to use leftover tile from our previous house to refinish the fireplace.  I wanted to frame the fireplace itself and being that the tile we had was 12 x 12, that became the size of the frame.  We used 2 x 4′s to create the structure and 1/4 inch plywood to cover the 2 x 4′s.

Next was the tile work.  I decided it would be best to do the platform first and cover the brick.  Starting with full tiles, I worked my way forward and cut the front pieces to fit with a wetsaw.  I then started from the bottom up the sides of the fireplace, using spacers to keep the tiles in place.  This went easily as planned.  The challenge then was to place the 3 full tiles across the top with no support.  In retrospect, I probably could have braced them with another 2 x 4, but at the time I didn’t think of that and chose to use duck tape instead.  This method worked, but I held my breath waiting to see if they would move.  They didn’t.

In the process of designing the fireplace, in my head, I chose to accent the frame with mirror strips, so allowed for this in the design.  After the tiles we in place, I added the mirror strips.

Now the fun part!  I wanted a mosaic look covering the entire wall behind the fireplace.  I had left the previous mirror above, so worked around it.  With safety glasses on and covering the tile with a cloth, I hit the tiles with a hammer creating various size pieces.  The pieces broke haphazardly, which was actually the look I wanted.  I again started at the bottom and worked my way up fitting the broken pieces one by one in a mosaic pattern.  I used spacers to keep them where I wanted them.  If  I didn’t have a piece that fit, I broke more tiles until I found the size and shape that I thought suitable.  I continued around the top a little past the halfway point.  Beginning at the bottom of the other side, I worked my way up in the same manner as the previous side.  I chose to do this again, because of the weight factor.  Unfortunately, in doing this, you are very restricted to the size and shape of the tiles needed to meet the other side, but a few more strikes with the hammer will yield pieces that fit just right.

After letting the tile set for a day,  I grouted the whole fireplace, being careful not to scratch any of the mirror.  Grout is absolutely not my favorite thing to do because it seems as though it’s an endless job.  As soon as you wipe it clean, it’s hazy again!  After umpteen wipe-downs the fireplace was done!

For under $50 and two days work, we have a updated, unique fireplace and we couldn’t be happier with the results.

Supplies needed: Cardboard roll Dryer Lint Magazine page or wrapping paper

Step 1:  Put dryer lint in cardboard tube filling 1/2 inch from each end

Step 2:  Roll paper around lint filled tube

Step 3:  Tuck ends of paper in, leaving it close to the end for the wax to adhere

Step 4:  Place candle wax in glass container in boiling water to melt wax

Step 5:  Once wax is melted, dip each end of the tube in the wax for a second or two.  Place tube on wax paper for wax to harden