Cycle Trader Insider - Motorcycle Blog by Cycle Trader

How to Prepare Your Motorcycle for Transport: A Checklist

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Wed, 20 Mar 2013 13:07:00 +0000

If you need to move your prized (or newly purchased) motorcycle across the country but are unable to ride or transport it yourself, you’re in luck! Many companies specialize in motorcycle transport and can offer complete quotes for the shipment on sites like uShip.com. Here’s a quick guide to preparing your motorcycle for transport and preventing any problems along the way.

Before your motorcycle hauler arrives, be sure to check the entire bike for pre-existing damage. Documenting existing damage with your phone or camera can save a lot of hassle in case of an insurance claim. Be sure to check these tasks off your list as well:

1. Inflate the tires.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Fill the gas tank to ¼ to ½ full.

4. Check for and fix any fluid leaks.

5. Remove any loose items from the motorcycle.

This is an important step that is often forgotten by owners. Be sure to remove any personal items and travel accessories from the bike before it’s loaded for transport. Motorcycle transporters are not responsible for those items, and they won’t be covered by insurance if accessories are lost or damaged.

6. Thoroughly clean the motorcycle.

7. Take note of any scratches, chips, dings, or any other cosmetic damages.

8. Ride the motorcycle around the block and write down any mechanical issues or peculiarities.

9. Take photos of the cleaned bike from several angles, along with close-up shots of existing
damage.

10. Date all your records, and mention them to your mover when they arrive.

Thankfully, there is no need to drain your gas tank or remove the battery unless you’re moving your motorcycle specifically as freight with a freight carrier. If your bike will be exposed to the cold or will be stationary for a long period of time at its destination, you may want to consider a few additional steps listed here to protect it during storage.

With the exception of freight carriers, you also shouldn’t need to crate or package your motorcycle prior to transport. Your transporter should arrive with all the necessary trailers, tie-downs and coverings needed to protect your bike during its journey. If you’re unsure about the service quality of a transporter during or prior to pick-up, you are well within your rights to cancel the service, as well.

If you have any questions about motorcycle transport or uShip.com, reach us any time on Twitter at @uShip or on Facebook.com/uShip.

Written by Collin Bass, Content Manager for uShip.com.

Arkansas' Bikes Blues and BBQ Delivers in 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 09 Oct 2012 14:53:00 +0000

Written By: Russ Brown Motorcycle Attorneys

Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally in Fayetteville Arkansas the last weekend in September did not disappoint this seasoned motorcycle rally goer. Arkansas' infamous Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally wrapped up shortly after midnight on Saturday September 29, 2012 and had over 32,000 bags of trash to prove that this event is truly awesome.

By everyone's account, Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally was an incredible success and a great time for all the motorcyclists who rode in. If riding the beautiful Ozarks isn't enough to get you there add to the rally mix the amazing aroma of the Kansas City BBQ Society Cook-off and Championship. Not many people would turn away from the smell of 59 teams from 13 states competing for top BBQ spots in four categories brisket, pork, chicken and, of course, ribs.This year's winner was Getting' Sauced from Missouri!

The main street for the rally is the legendary Dickson St. Dickson St is packed and the place to be and be seen during Bikes Blues and BBQ. The bars that line the street are packed to capacity and the streets are lined with people watching the beautiful procession of motorcycles that ride up and down Dickson. There are vendors lining the streets and the Main Stage area complete with beer tent. You could buy everything from Motorcycle gear to pulled pork (motorcycle rally staple) to cheesecake on a stick.

Great bands would take to the Main Stage and so would those romantic motorcyclists who thought tying the knot at Bikes Blues and BBQ would make their nuptials all that more memorable. Joe Giles, the organizer of the event, is a minister and he performed the ceremony for four couples over the weekend. And to cap the Main Stage off was the Miss BBB (bikini) contest.

The Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally was capped off by the Parade of Power. This year, over 600 motorcyclists rumbled their way from College Avenue to Dickson Street and passed thousands of spectators and families. The roar of the bikes was both deafening and thrilling for all who attended.

I loved the area so much to get into the spirit and show my support I donned a Razorbacks tee for the game against Texas A&M - Texas thumped the Razorbacks 58 to 10.

The motorcycle accident attorneys at Russ BrownMotorcycle Attorneys were proud to be a part of this year's festivities as sponsor and official motorcycle attorney of Bikes Blues and BBQ. We know why you ride and we understand your passion for motorcycling—because we ARE motorcyclists too. If you are ever injured in a motorcycle accident, we will fight aggressively for you. We always pursue the maximum compensation for our clients to help pay for medical expenses, lost wages, and pain and suffering. Call us today at 1-800-4-BIKERS for a free consultation. We Ride—We Care—We Win!

CycleTrader.com Reaches 40,000 Facebook Fans, Launches Fan Appreciation Contest

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Wed, 03 Oct 2012 12:47:00 +0000

In honor of CycleTrader’s fan page reaching 40,000 motorcyclists, we’re holding a fan appreciation contest to giveaway five $50 gift cards to help you get out and ride this Fall. Upload a photo of your motorcycle, or one you found on CycleTrader.com for your chance to win a free tank of gas.

Enter Your Bike Here

Simple Guide to Valve Adjustment

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 02 Oct 2012 20:06:00 +0000

Written By: GearHead.com

So you just got a killer deal on a bike on CycleTrader and you want to make sure everything is in tip top shape before your big upcoming ride. Whether you know if your valves need adjusting or not, it’s a good idea to at least check them periodically, especially in bigger or high compression engines where valves need to be adjusted more frequently. This simple guide will get you started with the basics on how to check and adjust your valves. This guide is for most 4 stroke motorcycle engines, but does not cover every make and model, so consult a repair manual for specifics for your bike. Valve adjustment can seem intimidating but it’s fairly simple on most bikes and can save you lots of money in the long run instead of having to take it to a mechanic.

What You Will Need:

· Valve clearance specifications (Exhaust and Intake in mm)

· Basic knowledge of your bike (how to get to TDC)

· Feeler gauges – Feeler gauges that match the specs you need to measure. (Some automotive feeler gauges are too big) Any local auto or motorsports store should carry some.

· Basic Tools – Basic tools like screwdriver, sockets, pliers, and wrenches to remove the valve cover, sparkplug, and turn over crankshaft nut.

· Valve cover gasket – Just in case the old one is bad or gets damaged. (Always buy factory OEM gaskets)

How to check and adjust the valves:

1. Remove spark plug(s).

2. Take off valve cover and set aside. They may need a love tap from a rubber mallet to break loose. You should be able to see the rocker arms and valve stem/springs at this point.

3. Crank the engine over so that the timing marks point to top dead center (TDC) and it’s at the top of the compression stroke. Rocker arms on intake and exhaust will usually have slight amount play in them since all the valves on the cylinder will be closed. There is usually a timing mark you can view through

4. Check valve clearance by measuring the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem with the feeler gauge. (see photo at right)

a. If valve clearance is correct, there will be a slight drag felt on the correct feeler gauge. If the gap is incorrect, you’ll need to adjust the valves. If you have a shim type valve, you’ll most likely need to remove the rocker arm to replace the current shim with one of the correct size. This may mean more work to make sure that timing isn’t affected and trial and error to get the right shim size. Consult your bikes repair manual for specifics on your bike. If you have a screw and locknut style valve adjuster, then you can simply loosen the locknut and adjust the screw to the correct specs.

5. Set valve clearance with adjusting screw and then tighten locknut. Check the clearances after the locknut is tightened then replace the valve cover (with new gasket if needed) and tighten in crisscross pattern. (Do not over tighten!)

6. Do the same for all valves on that cylinder and then move on to other cylinder(s) using steps 2-5.

7. Install spark plugs. (Do not over tighten!)

8. That’s it! Now go out and ride that freshly tuned beast like you stole it.

If you run into or cause any broken parts along the way, (bolts, gaskets, etc) be sure to replace them with genuine factory OEM motorcycle parts. Gearhead.com offers free online parts diagrams and sells millions of OEM and aftermarket parts, gear and accessories for all major makes and models of motorcycles.

Note: For a more in depth guide on valve adjustment, please see our other article, “How to Adjust Valves on a Motorcycle or ATV.”

CycleTrader.com Announces Request a Quote Feature for Motorcycle Shipping

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Fri, 24 Aug 2012 17:07:00 +0000

Motorcycle shipping is certainly an option worth considering when a bike has to be moved long distances. Visit the resource section of CycleTrader.com to understand what you need to know about motorcycle shipping services. Also, be sure to test drive the brand new request a quote feature, powered by UShip.com.

Request a Quote for Motorcycle Shipping

Chain and Sprocket Service

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:48:00 +0000

Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Chains are simple and effective, but need regular maintenance. A neglected chain may severely damage the engine case, or wrap up in the wheel and sprocket, locking the rear wheel. The two major types of chain designs are O-ring chains and non-O-ring chains. O-ring chains employ rubber O-rings between their side plates to retain lubricants. These usually last much longer, but although internally lubricated, O-rings need to be kept clean and side plates require lubrication and rust protection.

Lube it or Lose It!

Good guidelines for O-ring chains suggest that street riders should lube about every 500 miles. If you ride in heavy dust, rain, or other extreme conditions, or have a non-O-ring chain, the interval should be even shorter. Also, be sure to lube the chain after washing the bike to prevent rust.

If the chain is dirty, avoid harsh or flammable solvents such as gasoline, which can ruin the O-rings or cause a fire. Instead, spray the chain with a cleaner like PJ1 Super Cleaner or WD-40. A Simple Solutions Grunge Brush cleans well, or an old toothbrush and rag will do.

There are many lubes available, and you may need to experiment to find a favorite. I’ve found waxes work best for me. Lube the chain while it’s still warm after riding, but never with the engine running. Engage neutral and use the centerstand (if equipped) turning the wheel by hand, or roll the bike. Apply the lube evenly. Automatic chain oilers are also available, which make it easier to keep chains lubed.

Chain Adjustment

Owner’s and shop manuals provide slack measurements and adjusting procedures. If you don’t have a manual, gauge about 1 to 1.5 inches of vertical slack, measured midway between sprockets. Too loose and the chain may grind at the swingarm and even jump the sprockets. Too tight and the chain may damage the countershaft and bearings, and even snap. Generally to adjust the chain, you remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut, then turn the adjusting bolts until the proper slack is achieved. Worn chains develop loose and tight portions, and slack varies, so it’s critical to check slack as you rotate the wheel and set it when the chain is at its tightest point. Recheck slack after tightening because it may change.

Most double-sided swingarms have alignment marks, but besides using markings, there are several ways to measure axle alignment. Motion Pro makes a chain alignment tool. Or you can also use a tape measure and measure from the centerline of the axle to the centerline of the swingarm pivot bolt on each side. Another method is to wrap a long piece of string around the front tire (set straight) and pull the string back on both sides toward the rear wheel, near and parallel to the floor. If the wheel is crooked, it will be quite obvious.

Time for Replacement?

As sprockets wear, the teeth develop sharper points and eventually become hook shaped. Pull straight back on the chain in the middle of the rear sprocket. If the chain pulls out so much that you can see the sprocket teeth, you’ll know it’s worn. If the chain resists pulling away from the sprocket, it isn’t worn out yet. Changing the rear sprocket requires rear-wheel removal, while changing a front sprocket usually involves removing the sprocket cover. Once the rear wheel is off you can change the rear sprocket. It may pull off with the damper hub, but you’ll have to unbolt the sprocket from its mounting. Install the new sprocket and tighten securely. Put the sprocket assembly back on the wheel and put the rear axle in. Follow the procedures in a shop manual if needed.

Many motorcycles come with continuous chains that are riveted together, whereas replacement chains are available with or without master links. Generally, because they’re stronger, high-horsepower bikes only come with riveted links, which may make it necessary to remove the swingarm for replacement. If you work on chains a lot, consider purchasing a chain breaking/riveting tool from a motorcycle shop or online; Emgo, Motion Pro, and RK Chain all make them. Otherwise, have a shop do the work.

To replace a master-link chain, remove the old link and connect the end of the new chain with the old one, using a new link. Loosen the rear axle to allow slack. Then pull the new chain past the countershaft sprocket. Pull and guide the new chain using the old one until both ends meet each other on the upper rear portion of the rear sprocket. Insert the master link through both new ends, and install the clip, or carefully rivet the new chain together. Follow the instructions that come with the tool. Or find a description online at www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain-rplc.php.

Chain Oilers

Hawke Oiler: www.hawkeoiler.com
Scottoiler & Acumen CL10 Electronic Chain Oiler: www.riderstation.com

Chains and Sprockets

Bike Bandit (888) 339-3888, www.bikebandit.com
Motorcycle Superstore (877) 668-6872, www.motorcycle-superstore.com

Digital Camera Accessories for the Digital Rider: SteadePod

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 14 Aug 2012 17:24:00 +0000

Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Here’s an old DIY trick turned into a product. In the Do-It-Yourself, version, a piece of string with a washer on the end is attached to your camera. Drop the washer to the ground, step on it, and pull the camera until the string is taught. The tension in the string helps hold the camera steady…not as good as a tripod but it may be just enough to stabilize the camera to get that low light shot. Here’s the “productized” version of the idea.

The SteadePod is for…

…people that can’t be bothered with a tripod
…ultralight travelers
…certain (but not all) low light situations

The SteadePod is not for…
…very long exposure photography

Click here for more information.

Touring Tip: Exercising Good Riding Judgement

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Mon, 13 Aug 2012 14:05:00 +0000

Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Becoming a proficient, safe rider involves the accomplishment of many skills and a reservoir of experience in applying them. But even expert riders can be involved in serious accidents. In my experience, the primary preventable reason these accidents occur is because there was a lapse in the rider’s judgement. Here’s an example of one such incident with fatal consequences:

A young man on a sportbike was following a heavily laden dump truck on a four-lane city street in front of my place of employment. The rider apparently became frustrated with the truck’s slow rate of progress in the left lane and, in a split second, swerved into the right lane to pass. What the rider didn’t realize was that the truck was slowing to make a wide cross-lane turn into a construction site on the right. It took first responders quite a while to dislodge the motorcycle and its rider from beneath the truck’s rear wheels.

There are several factors, all of them mental, which can compromise a rider’s otherwise good judgement:

· Being in A Hurry: Busy urban streets are a high-risk environment for motorcyclists, because there are so many potential risks that must be identified and mitigated. Trying to do this at warp speed is dangerous. The laws of probability suggest that sooner or later an imprudent rider will miss identifying a risk and fall victim to it. The same, also, is true on country roads.

· Rationalizing Known Risks: Experienced motorcyclists usually are well aware of the risks posed to them in various riding situations. But how many times have you done something and later said to yourself, “I knew better than to do that!” I know I’ve done it – like the time I thought I needed to outrun an approaching thunderstorm, but didn’t. I well knew that driving rain and lightening posed a dangerous riding environment, but chanced it anyway because I didn’t want to take time out of my trip schedule to immediately find shelter. I knew better than that.

· Over Confidence: In my estimation this is a major source of accidents for the most proficient motorcyclists. It’s a wonderful feeling when a rider gets to a point where he or she feels in complete command of their mount in virtually any situation. They often ride on the ragged edge of traction and safety. By leaving no margin of safety for a misjudged corner or an unexpected hazard suddenly appearing over the next hilltop, these riders are playing their own version of motorcycle roulette. Sooner or later they will need to rely on a margin for riding error that won’t be there when they need it.

· Peer Pressure: How many times have you heard a highly proficient ride leader say, “Don’t try to keep up with me, ride your own ride”? The problem that often develops, though, is that less adept riders, especially if they’re on a powerful motorcycle that well exceeds their skill level (but not their ego), feel that they do have to keep up. Riding over your head is asking for trouble. And if you’re the cocky ride leader, be aware of the potential peer pressure you may be placing on the less capable riders in your jet stream.

Here are my five recommendations for exercising good riding judgement:

1. Take Your Time: If you’re late for a meeting or some other important appointment across town, it would be better to park your bike and take a cab, rather than pushing your limits through traffic. Whether you’re riding in the country or in an urban environment, motorcycling is supposed to be fun. Always ride at a safe speed.

2. Look Before You Leap: Don’t rationalize known riding risks and always be observant and thoughtful about identifying those that aren’t immediately obvious. I think there is a little voice in the back of our minds that tells us when we’re doing this—listen to it and ride accordingly!

3. Leave Your Ego in the Garage: Just like in a lot of other life situations, if you have an overly active ego, you can find yourself in a predicament. Because a motorcycle provides little, if any, crash protection, a rider has to be on top of his or her safe riding game at all times. Don’t take your ego along on a ride, it really is excess baggage that can cloud your riding judgment.

4. Stay Within Your Comfort Zone: If you’re ever feeling a little unsafe on a ride, that’s because you are unsafe. Exercise an “iron will” by always staying within your riding comfort zone. Your subconscious mind let’s you know when you’re outside your own personal safe riding envelope. Don’t ignore it! Really do “ride your own ride!”

5. Learn from Your Mistakes and those of Others: It’s important during and after a ride to reflect on any errors in judgement that you might have made and resolve not to repeat them. There is also much to be gained by learning from the mistakes of others so you can avoid those also.

Of course, not every random act of nature or acts of other humans can be anticipated and avoided, but riding with good judgment can go a long way in reducing your risk of an accident.

Getting the Most Out of Your Battery

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Thu, 09 Aug 2012 18:52:00 +0000

Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

All too often, motorcycle batteries die young, murdered by neglect. Dehydration, improper charging, and a slow discharge during storage all shorten a battery’s life. But it doesn’t have to be that way; how long your battery lasts is mainly up to you.

Motorcycle radios, clocks, alarms, computers, etc., draw a small current even when the ignition switch is off, which can drain batteries within a few days. To prevent these draws from killing your battery, you could disconnect the battery, but even if there is no load on them, batteries self-discharge. When batteries are left discharged they quickly become sulfated and may permanently lose the ability to be charged, so always recharge a discharged battery as soon as possible.

Three Battery Types

There are three major types of motorcycle batteries: conventional “wet cells” with liquid electrolyte, gelled electrolyte (gel cells), and absorbed glass mat (AGM) or “dry cells.” Wet-cell batteries with removable caps contain lead-antimony and are the least expensive, but require periodic refilling. Wet batteries marked “maintenance-free” with semi-removable caps usually contain lead-calcium plates that use less water, although in some cases, they can still run dry. Gel batteries contain a jellied electrolyte that doesn’t splash easily. Gel cells are more tolerant of being left partially discharged and they don’t self-discharge fast, but they cost more than conventional batteries. The most expensive type is absorbed glass mat, which uses silica-glass matting that makes them maintenance-free. While AGM batteries typically cost more, they have higher efficiency and power than other types, are the most resistant to vibration, and usually last considerably longer.

Storage and Charging

If a motorcycle is stored for several weeks or longer, keep it on a “smart” multi-stage maintenance charger with separate bulk, absorption, and float modes. During extended storage, remove the battery and place it indoors, where it can be connected to a maintenance charger and the electrolyte level monitored. If that’s not possible, or if it’s maintenance free, the battery can be left in the bike and on a maintenance charger. (A fully charged battery will not freeze until the temperature dips to -92 degrees F, but when discharged, they can freeze at just a few degrees below the freezing point of water.) Often, we don’t expect to leave the bike as long as we do, so make it a habit to connect it when parking at home. Many chargers come with external quick-connect plugs that only take seconds to use.

Regular and trickle chargers are OK for recharging discharged batteries to put them back in service, but they don’t have the circuitry needed to maintain a battery’s charge properly during storage. When trickle chargers are left on for long periods they overcharge and damage batteries.

New batteries must be fully charged before placing them in service. Batteries should be recharged at a rate not exceeding 20% of their ampere-hour (A-H) rating, for example a 2-ampere maximum charge rate for a 10 A-H battery. Frequently discharging a battery below 50% of its capacity also shortens its life substantially. Regular charging voltages should be 14.2-14.6 for wet cell, 13.8-14.0 for gel cell, and 14.1-14.4 for AGM. Recommended float-charge voltages are 13.2-13.7 for wet cell, 13.2 for gel cell, and 13.2 -13.4 for AGM.

Maintenance and Safety

Batteries contain sulfuric acid so follow all safety warnings. Always wear eye protection, rubber gloves, and old clothing when working near them, and keep baking soda and water handy to neutralize any spilled acid.

Batteries vent hydrogen and oxygen that can explode if sparks or smoking occur nearby. Shut the ignition switch off before disconnecting battery terminals, and detach the ground side first so tools can’t spark if they touch metal. Always connect the negative jumper cable for the dead battery last, attaching it to a clean metal portion of the frame, rather than to the negative battery terminal, so no sparks occur near the battery. Only plug in a battery charger after it’s connected.

Be sure to clean and inspect terminals regularly. Electrolyte levels of non-maintenance-free batteries need to be checked monthly, especially in hot weather or when frequently used. If electrolyte levels drop below the top of the internal plates, the battery may be damaged. Use only distilled water to refill, which prevents mineral buildup.

Voltage and Specific Gravity

All batteries can be tested with a resistive load test, either electronically with a special tester that measures internal resistance, or with a digital voltmeter. Batteries with removable caps can also be tested for specific gravity (SG) with a hydrometer. A fully charged battery at rest should read about 12.66 volts, with an SG of 1.265. A 75% charge yields 12.4 volts or 1.225 SG. A 50% charge yields 12.2 volts or 1.155 SG. And 11.7 volts or 1.120 SG indicates that the battery is fully discharged. Differences in SG greater than 0.050 between cells mean that the battery is worn-out.

CycleTrader.com Prepares for Major Product Announcement

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 24 Jul 2012 18:39:00 +0000

Do you have extra motorcycle parts lying around the garage? We'll soon be announcing a solution to help turn those parts into cash. Become a Facebook fan today, and you'll be one of the first to hear the news

Touring Tip: Traveling Light

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:54:00 +0000

Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Touring motorcyclists can learn a lot from the traveling light strategies employed by backpackers. When a hiker has to carry everything he or she will need for several days, every ounce of gear and clothing carried becomes important. Because necessity is often the mother of invention, backpackers take only what they absolutely will need and each item usually has more than just one use.

For touring motorcyclists, however, traveling light is often more about bulk than weight. The goal of taking only those things you will need, however, still holds true for us two-wheeled adventurers. During a recent three-day tour on a café racer-type of bike, I was able to carry everything I needed in a small backpack and tankbag. It would have been nice to have more storage space, but I, indeed, did have everything I needed. This included a digital camera and an iPad for downloading photos.

Here’s my list of thirteen essential items for motorcycle touring, including clothing items worn on the first day of travel:

Protective motorcycle riding gear: full face helmet, boots, gloves, jacket, sunglasses and pants (perforated jacket and pants in summer) If room permits, I also throw in a pair of casual shoes.
A hydration pack (for use in both warm and cool weather) and power bars, in case food stops become scarce.
Rain gear, which provides additional warmth if the weather turns cold.
Small digital camera and batteries or charger.
Smart phone (and charger) for monitoring weather and calling for help, if needed.
Critical personal information: name, next of kin phone number(s), medications, drug allergies, blood type, etc.
Maps and/or GPS device (I usually take both).
Fresh underwear and socks for each day of the tour.
One pair of bicycle-type shorts for riding comfort, which are aired-out or rinsed each night, as necessary.
Two form-fitting synthetic shirts, which are rinsed and air-dried each night (like those sold under the UnderArmor brand, which hold perspiration close to the body and provide an evaporative cooling effect).
A light weight long-sleeve turtleneck for cold mornings and whenever additional insulation is needed.
A minimal toiletry kit, which includes any daily medications.
A polo type shirt and a pair of jeans for casual wear after the day’s ride is complete.

OK, I’ve probably forgotten something or maybe you have a completely different list of essential items. Anyway, let us know what’s on your list of “must have” motorcycle touring items.

Partner Spotlight: EagleRider Motorcycle Rentals and Tours

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Thu, 21 Jun 2012 20:43:00 +0000

EagleRider is the largest motorcycle tourism company in the world specializing in rentals of motorcycles, ATVs, dirt bikes, scooters, snowmobiles, and watercraft. Their world-class locations nationwide offer customers perfectly maintained Harley, Honda, and BMW motorcycles for rent.

EagleRider provides their customers with both guided and self-drive tours that range from 2 to 18 days. The company has over 30 guided tours to choose from as well as nearly 100 self-drive tours. One of the most famous guided tours is without a doubt the Easy Rider Movie Tour. The tour begins in Los Angeles and follows the route taken by “Billy” and “Wyatt” to New Orleans in Easy Rider, the famous 1969 film notorious for introducing the freedom that riding a motorcycle in America can offer to the masses. The EagleRider Motorcycle Rental and Tours team worked with Sony Pictures and Easy Rider to retrace the most authentic tour route used during the production of the film. As a result, EagleRider has exclusive rights to this once in a lifetime opportunity. There are also guided tours throughout the Midwest, along the Pacific Coast, and even throughout Florida and too many self-drive tours to count.

EagleRider offers the cream of the crop customer service and has both round trip and one-way rentals without hourly fees available. Rentals include safety equipment and helmets upon request. In addition, EagleRider will even provide storage for your luggage, airline tickets, and valuables free of charge. Riders can also opt to have their bikes delivered and if they are within 5 miles of the nearest location EagleRider will even pick them up.

In addition to offering motorcycle rentals and tours, EagleRider has four retail locations that sell used motorcycles. These stores are located in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Orlando and Fort Lauderdale.

For more information on rentals, touring and used motorcycle sales please visit http://eaglerider.com/.

Featured Destination: Stonehenge II

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 19 Jun 2012 17:39:00 +0000

Stonehenge II

120 Point Theatre Road S.

Ingram, Texas

When you are riding through Texas, stop by Ingram, Texas and take some time to appreciate Stonehenge II. Stonehenge II is a replica of the original Stonehenge monument in Salisbury, England. Quoted as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the Texas Hill Country’, Stonehenge II was originally located in Hunt, Texas but was moved by the Hill Country Arts Foundation and now resides in Ingram, Texas. Stonehenge II is about half as tall as the original, 3,500-plus-year-old Stonehenge. There are also two replica Easter Island heads at the site. There are plans to add a dance floor, benches, and side walks to the site in summer of 2012. So if you are in the area ride out to Ingram and enjoy the site. (Source: http://alfredshepperd.com/Stonehenge/main.html)

Touring Tip: Packing Your Bike Properly for Touring

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Mon, 04 Jun 2012 18:52:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Before going on tour, make sure your motorcycle is loaded in a safe and secure manner. Here are our top 10 “Dos” and “Don’ts” for motorcycle packing:

Do: Pack heavier items low and as close as practical to the bike’s center of gravity.
Don’t: Pack a lot of weight high and behind the rear axle.

Do: Load saddlebags and soft luggage with equal weight on each side.
Don’t: Load more weight on one side of the bike than the other.

Do: Secure everything tightly to prevent them from becoming entangled in the chain or wheels.
Don’t: Have any loose items flopping around in the breeze.

Do: Pack only what you definitely will need. A lighter and less bulky load is far better!
Don’t: Pack everything you might need on the trip.

Do: Place lighter items in a tankbag and/or in a topcase.
Don’t: Place loads on your front fender or forks, which adversely affects handling.

Do: Use nylon tie-down straps that can be locked in place and won’t stretch.
Don’t: Use bungee cords to secure exposed items.

Do: Weigh items, including the riders, riding gear and luggage to make sure that Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) isn’t exceeded.
Don’t: Exceed the GVWR found in the owner’s manual.

Do: Pack smaller items that require quick access (e.g., credit cards, drivers license, maps, etc) in easy to reach locations, like a tankbag.
Don’t: Store things you might need during the day at the bottom of saddlebags.

Do: Pack well ahead of your departure date, and do a test ride to make sure that all items are secured and the bike handles properly.
Don’t: Leave on your trip immediately after the bike is loaded.

Do: Check you load at every stop to make sure all items are still secured.
Don’t: Pack it and forget it.

Time invested in organizing your gear and packing your motorcycle properly will pay big dividends once you’re out on the road.

The Joys of Camping: Honey – I Shrunk Our Stuff

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Thu, 31 May 2012 13:31:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

My campground neighbors must have enjoyed the show, watching the idiot, yours truly, wander over to a small coffee pot sitting on the ground, lift the lid, and peer into it every couple of minutes. They were probably somewhat bewildered as I poured steaming water into two cups, brewing some Starbucks instant coffee for my wife and myself. What they couldn’t see was that the pot sat on a tiny denatured alcohol stove about the size of a hockey puck. Made of titanium, the stove had been irresistible when I saw it clearance-priced at $15. It featured two heat settings, flamethrower and off, and promised a burn time of about 15 minutes per fueling. Did it live up to its promise? Sort of, as long as the moon was in the proper phase and the correct sacrifices were made prior to using it. Actually, it boiled one cup of water pretty well, but two cups was a toss of the dice. The stove was yet another step in my quest to assemble the ultimate collection of compact gear for motorcycle camping.

No matter how you simplify it, carrying enough gear on your bike for camping requires careful attention to detail. Limiting what you take is only half the battle, the other half being reducing the size of every possible item. Decreasing size without sacrificing function is the goal, and each piece of equipment should be selected with that in mind. I’ve even resorted to packing only collarless shirts to save space. (RoadRUNNER T-shirts do nicely.)

The stove problem has been vexing since size, functionality, fuel cost, and availability must be considered. My first motorcycle camping stove was a single-burner propane model, which worked well but was bulky, both in terms of the stove itself and the small propane cylinders that fueled it. The cylinders would also leak once the burner was removed. It is now one of those items taking up garage space that I mentioned in my last article. I now take two stoves, allowing me to boil water for a constant infusion of vitamin C (coffee) with one, while preparing food with the other. The two that I’ve been using are a Jetboil stove and an MSR PocketRocket stove. They both use the same butane/isobutane/propane fuel canisters, and both perform extremely well. A good lower-cost alternative is either of the two aforementioned stoves used along with a fold-up Sterno stove. The Sterno stove is about as high-tech as a stone axe, but it gets hot enough to cook an egg or heat a can of stew fairly quickly.

You’ll need something to put that food on, of course, and there are opportunities for saving space here as well. We’ve been using collapsible and nesting bowls and mugs made by Sea to Summit. The only drawback we’ve found is that the soft plastic compound tends to absorb odors from drinks. We use a Teflon Bugaboo mess kit made by GSI is for cooking, and we prefer the nonstick surface to plain aluminum for easy clean up. We eat out of the mess-kit skillet and lid instead of taking plates, and we use Lexan utensils to avoid scratching the Teflon surface.

Flashlights and lanterns are other items that need a serious diet before motorcycle-camping duty. My current favorite is a small Coleman LED lantern, which features two light intensities and a flash setting for emergency use. I recently saw another interesting LED flashlight/lantern combination that I may not be able to resist. It is the “Joey” model by Outback Flashlights and features a flashlight, red flashing emergency light, and rows of LED bulbs down the side of the handle for use as a lantern. While not packing the punch of larger lights, the compact size and versatility of these relatively new lighting products are a perfect match for motorcyclists.

Other diminutive but useful items include a quality multipurpose tool such as those made by Gerber and Leatherman ; a small cutting board; a 30-foot piece of strong cord for clothesline use; such clips as the S-Biners sold by Aerostich; a collapsible bucket; and a soft or folding cooler. If your plans include cooking over a fire don’t forget a small cooking grate and something to wrap it in, as the fire rings with grates provided by many parks look as though they were salvaged from a sunken Spanish galleon.

It is amazing how much performance can be squeezed into some of these small products, considering the enormous size difference compared with conventional camping gear. There’s a special sense of self-sufficiency that comes from carrying everything you need on a motorcycle, and it’s fun watching your weekend neighbors wonder how you managed to pack it all. It’s also entertaining to observe them search their own site for a geothermal vent like the one they’re convinced exists on yours.

What To Do Until the Ambulance Arrives

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Wed, 23 May 2012 19:10:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Have you ever come upon an accident before emergency medical service (EMS) personnel arrive and were unsure how to assist? It can be a daunting situation, where it’s tempting to just ride past, but think how you would feel if you were the injured victim who desperately needed help!

The essential things to remember at any injury crash scene are: Call for EMS help immediately; don’t put yourself in a situation where you could become a victim; and do no further harm.

Stop in a safe place, activate your bike’s flashers (if equipped), and use your motorcycle to light the scene if it is night. Think: Is it safe for me? Is it safe for the victim? People tend to get tunnel vision and focus on the victim. Before you plunge into an accident scene, however, take a quick look around to get the big picture. Does it look staged? In rare cases criminals have set up fake accidents or breakdowns to draw in their prey. Perhaps the victim was shot off the motorcycle and the shooter is still nearby. Was it a hit-and-run and the perpetrator is just now leaving? Write down license-plate numbers – in the roadside sand if necessary – and get a full description of any vehicles and people and call authorities as soon as possible. Preserve any evidence.

As soon as you determine there are injured victims, or that police are needed for any reason, call 911 or another local emergency number. The dispatcher will want to know the exact location and if possible the number of victims and severity of injuries. This allows them to send the right resources, such as a paramedic ambulance or helicopter.

If any people or debris are in or close to the road you need to consider traffic control. If other people are on the scene ask them to help with this. Never move injured people unless they are in extreme peril, such as next to or under a burning vehicle that you can’t extinguish or move, or in imminent danger of being run over by oncoming vehicles if it is impossible to stop or redirect traffic in time.

Many states have Good Samaritan laws that protect unpaid people who help at an accident scene, providing they were not grossly negligent. If a person is unconscious and needs assistance, implied-consent statutes allow bystanders to render life-saving aid. Check if your state has such laws. Assume that any victims have communicable diseases, and avoid coming in contact with bodily fluids. Keep your motorcycle gloves on if you don’t have rubber gloves in your first-aid kit.

Do a quick triage to determine how many victims there are and who is most urgent. If a victim is conscious you must get permission to assist them. The person with the highest level of medical training should be in charge. Say something like, “Hi, my name is Ken. What’s yours? It looks like you need help. Can I assist you? What happened? Do you know where you are? Do you feel pain? Where?” A person’s level of consciousness tells a lot about their condition. It’s a good sign if they are alert and fully oriented.

For Unconscious Victims Remember ABC
A – Airway: Determine if there is anything blocking the airway or in the mouth or throat that needs to be cleared immediately. Avoid removing a helmet unless the person will die if it isn’t done before the ambulance arrives.

B – Breathing: Is the person breathing? Determine by listening, watching the chest, etc.

C – Circulation: Check the pulse at the carotid artery, right next to the windpipe/Adam’s apple on either side. If the person is breathing they will have a pulse. If pulse or breathing is not present begin rescue breathing or CPR, if you know how.

Assume that any crash victim has a head, neck or spinal injury, which could paralyze them if they are moved. Keep victims’ heads immobile, even if they say they can move their head normally. Tell them, “You’ve been in an accident and it’s important that you don’t move. We don’t know if you have a spinal injury or not. An ambulance is coming.”

Control heavy bleeding by applying steady, direct pressure with sterile gauze pads. Use a clean cloth or T-shirt as a last resort if no sterile dressing is available.

Ken Freund is a former member of a Sheriff’s Rescue Team and EMT.

Disclaimer
This information is intended to be educational on what to do if you encounter an accident and is not an authoritative source of medical advice. You should take such further steps as taking a certified ASMI, CPR, or Red Cross First Aid class, and talking to your doctor. Responsibility resides with individuals to educate themselves as much as possible. These are only suggestions. Every situation may warrant different responses and the author and publisher will not be held responsible for injury that may occur as a result of following the steps provided.

Touring Tip: Discouraging Motorcycle Thieves On The Road

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Mon, 14 May 2012 20:37:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

As dear old dad was fond of saying, “Locks are mainly to keep honest people honest. A skilled and determined thief will often find a way to overcome locks and alarms.” Having acknowledged that, though, there are many effective strategies for helping to “keep honest people honest” and preventing a theft from ruining your motorcycle touring vacation. Here are some of the best ones that I’ve found, starting with those that are the most obvious:

Lock the bike’s ignition and remove the key
Attach a lock to one of the front brake discs
Use brightly colored locks in easily seen locations so potential thieves will be more likely to see them before approaching the bike
Add an alarm to your motorcycle
At night, park the bike in a lighted area, near the front entrance of the hotel and, if possible, in view of the hotel’s surveillance camera
When stopping for food, if feasible, park the bike where you can see it out the window from your table in the restaurant
If you’re using a chain type of lock, attach it through the spokes of your bike to an immovable object, like a light pole, or to a riding companion’s bike
Remove any unlocked luggage and take it into your hotel room at night
Keep insurance and licensing information on your person, not on the motorcycle
Leave the bike’s title in a safe place at home
Take valuable items, like cameras, into your room at night
Remove electronic gear (GPS, radar detector, etc.) from your bike at night and any other time the bike will be out of your sight for several hours
When trailering a motorcycle, chain-lock it to the trailer, lock the trailer that the bike is hitched to, and back up next to a wall in the evening so your bike cannot be rolled off the back of the trailer
Take a photo(s) of some unique identifying mark(s) or feature(s) on your bike and keep it with you to aid authorities with identification, in case the bike is stolen and later recovered.

With the replacement cost of touring and custom motorcycles climbing to new heights, it only makes sense to take preventative measures that will help protect your investment. And, when you’re on tour in the hinterlands, you don’t want your only mode of transportation to suddenly disappear. The above list isn’t intended to be all-inclusive, but it’s to get you thinking about risks and ways to discourage thieves when you’re on tour. Happy riding.

This article is published with the permission of RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel Magazine. It is not for sale or redistribution.

The Lost Art of Getting Lost

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Mon, 07 May 2012 14:36:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

I used to get lost. A lot. Wrong turns. Missed turns. Plain ol’ curiosity sometimes. I always came out the other side, sometimes a little late, always a little smarter. It was ok because I loved maps. Ever since I was a kid I enjoyed spending time pouring over maps, tracing over windy roads, and imagining what stories they held. Getting lost was just an excuse to take out the map, figure out where I was, and figure out how to get home. And then I got my first GPS, a Garmin eMap. Tiny, low-contrast black and white screen. No turn-by-turn directions. But like I told the kids in the Extremadura in western Spain as the mechanic siphoned the leaded gas from the Aprila Pegaso (don’t ask, long story), “Todo el mundo esta aqui.”

And over time I’ve gotten lost less. And looked at maps less. And bumped into unexpected things less. And discovered things less. And been happily surprised less. You call that progress? Now don’t get me wrong – I love nav systems. Use them all the time. But the screens are still tiny and low resolution compared to a good map, and they don’t really encourage discovery, the kind of “what if we turned down this road?” adventure that I used to love. And they’re not really beautiful – if you want to see some really beautiful maps, check out Raven Maps & Images.

A dear cousin once said to me, “jump and the world will catch you.” It’s not too late to make a New Year’s Resolution, is it? This year, I resolve to get more lost. And I hope that you get lost too.

This article is published with the permission of RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel Magazine. It is not for sale or redistribution.

Passenger Car Motor Oils and Motorcycles: Dangerous When Mixed

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 20:48:00 +0000

Written By: Castrol Motor Oils

When it comes to questions about motorcycle oils, this is the one consumers ask us the most frequently: “Can I use the same motor oil in my motorcycle as I use in my car?” Seems reasonable right? Both have engines that require lubrication and both passenger car and motorcycle oil share some common grades like 10W-40 and 20W-50. So, what do we tell them? Absolutely not. Why you ask?

The key point of difference can be summed up in two words “common sump,” (maybe I should have said “sumped up in two words?”) Motorcycles typically have one, while passenger cars do not. So what does this have to do with the fluid? Simple. A common sump indicates that the lubricant needed to protect vital components in a bike’s engine, gearbox and clutch are contained in one place. Since the fluid is stored in one place, it would stand to reason that there is only one fluid. On the other hand, a passenger car has multiple sumps and thus require multiple fluids (transmission fluid, gear oils, etc.) to protect the same vital components. So, critical components for motorcycles are lubricated with a single fluid, while passenger cars require multiple fluids to protect the same components.

Although motorcycle oils and passenger car motor oil are similar in their composition, the additive packages are balanced differently due to the type of performance and protection they must provide. Since motorcycle oils are lubricating three different components with a single fluid, they require a highly engineered additive package to address the unique requirements of each component. A typical passenger car oil only has to provide protection and performance for the engine of which fuel economy and emission system protection are the key priorities. As such, passenger car oils include friction modifying additives which reduce friction in specific areas of the engine such as the valve train and piston ring/cylinder. The reduction in friction yields fuel economy improvement. Also, passenger car oil contains lower levels of Phosphorus and Zinc. Both of these ingredients must be controlled to adequately protect the vehicles emission system.

Since a motorcycle is inherently more fuel efficient than a passenger car and fuel economy is not as important to the consumer, motorcycle oils do not require the use of friction modifiers. In fact, friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance. “Wet clutch” simply means that the motorcycle’s clutch is immersed in oil. Should a clutch be immersed in an oil that includes friction modifiers (like a typical passenger car oil), these additives will be absorbed on the clutch plates and as a result, the clutch will start slipping. This will cause a loss of power transfer to the back wheel, overheating as well as increased wear. Motorcycle oils, which do not include friction modifiers, are specially formulated to provide the appropriate level of “grip” to the clutch plates, but still provide the protection needed to ensure proper functioning and years of reliable service to the consumer. In short, friction modifiers are good for passenger car engines but bad for motorcycles.

The other key difference is the level of antiwear additives used in motorcycle oil versus passenger car oil. Motorcycle oils typically require high levels of antiwear additives to provide a protective barrier, preventing metal to metal contact in the transmission gears due to the extremely high loads between the gear teeth. Direct contact of the gear teeth can lead to scuffing or scoring of the gear teeth surfaces while vibrations typical of high revving engines promote fatigue induced damage like pitting. Passenger car oils do not need to lubricate the transmission as there is a separate lubricant (automatic transmission fluid) charged with this task (back to the common sump concept). So, a passenger car oil will not have a high enough level of antiwear additives to lubricate and protect a motorcycle’s gearbox.

In summary, passenger car oils include additives (friction modifiers) that are harmful to motorcycle engine components and don’t include sufficient levels of antiwear additives that your bike needs to function properly. Formulating a motorcycle engine oil means finding the optimum balance between engine protection, clutch performance and gear protection due to a common sump. Conditions which are not considered when formulating passenger car engine oils. So, when choosing an engine lubricant for your bike, select one that is specially formulated for motorcycles. Your clutch and gearbox will thank you and the reward will be years of reliable service. Click here to learn more about Castrol Motorcycle Oil.

Touring Tip: Touring Two-Up

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:26:00 +0000

Part of the enjoyment of motorcycle travel is sharing the experience with others, particularly doing so with non-riding passengers who are experiencing the exhilaration of motorcycling for the first time. Whether it’s a trip around the block or a journey cross-country, it’s important for a rider to properly prepare their passenger, their motorcycle and themselves before departure. The following are the three most essential areas to plan for when touring two-up.

Passenger: Unlike riding in an automobile, the passenger on a bike should be an active participant. Passengers should: (1) wear protective gear; (2) understand how to lean with the motorcycle on turns; (3) be tall enough to reach the passenger pegs; (4) hold on to the rider’s waist or handholds on the bike; (5) avoid sudden movements; (6) keep hands and feet clear of moving and hot components; (7) avoid banging helmets with the rider when stopping and (8) stay relaxed and supple with the bike’s movements.

Motorcycle: Because the bike will be carrying more weight with a passenger, weight distribution, center of gravity, suspension, performance and handling characteristics of the motorcycle all will be affected. Considering these factors, the rider should ensure that: (1) the rear suspension preload is adjusted appropriately for the additional weight; (2) tire pressure also is adjusted for additional weight and (3) the gross vehicle weight limitations specified in the owners manual are not exceeded. And, of course, it goes without saying that the motorcycle should be designed to accommodate a passenger.

Rider: The motorcycle rider must appropriately modify his or her riding technique when touring with the extra weight of a passenger, because: (1) stopping distances will increase; (2) handling will not be as crisp as riding solo; (3) passing distances will increase; (4) cornering clearances may decrease; (5) pressure on the tire’s contact patch will increase and likely reduce traction on wet or loose surfaces; (6) additional weight over the rear tire will likely increase the effectiveness of the rear brake; (7) gusty crosswinds will have more surface area to grab onto; (8) throttle and clutch response will be altered and (9) last, but certainly not least, it’s important to make sure that the passenger is comfortable with the riding pace and that their biological needs are being met. Riders generally should have at least one year of solo riding experience before transporting a passenger. They also must ensure compliance with legal requirements for passengers in the states they will be touring in, such as minimum age and necessary safety gear.

Seeing the country two-up on a motorcycle, with a special someone, can be a wonderful touring experience, but riders must make sure that the proper safety precautions are followed to provide a safe and enjoyable riding experience.

This article is published with the permission of RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel Magazine. It is not for sale or redistribution.

RoadRUNNER is a bimonthly motorcycle touring magazine packed with exciting travel articles, splendid photography, maps and GPS files. Subscriptions are available on our website, or by calling (866) 343-7623.

Like A Bike Facebook Photo Contest

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 15:03:00 +0000

In honor of the American Motorcyclist Association Get Out & Ride month, we’re holding a fan appreciation contest to giveaway five $50 gift cards to help you get out and ride this Spring. Upload a photo of your motorcycle, or one you found on CycleTrader.com for your chance to win a free tank of gas.

Five grand prize winners will each receive a $50 gift card.

Ten second prize winners will each receive a CycleTrader prize pack

Upload a Photo of Your Motorcycle

Touring Tip: Riding In A Proper State Of Mind

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 13:44:00 +0000

Written By: Jim Parks, RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

It’s been observed that operating a motorcycle is 90% mental and only 10% physical. In addition, scientists tell us that we are not consciously aware of most of what the mind is doing in everyday life. Do you consciously think about breathing or making your heartbeat or which foot operates your bike’s gearshift? Like an iceberg, some 90% of the brain’s activity is taking place below the conscious surface. This may fly in the face of some historic perceptions of motorcyclists as brawny he-men muscling heavyweight cruiser-type bikes down the road.

The predominance of an expert rider’s mind, over his or her physical strength, was never made more clear to me than during a track school day. The students were overwhelmingly males, riding large displacement bikes. They would streak down the track’s straightaway at warp speed, but then almost panic and brake to a near stop before entering the upcoming hairpin curve. This was followed by them riding tentatively around the ensuing chicanes, s-curves and sweepers before again launching into rocket-mode on the straightaway.

Meanwhile, the instructors, one of which was a petite female riding a Suzuki SV650, were passing the students with such ease that the scene was almost comical. Clearly muscle power and physical prowess were not ruling the day and, for that matter, neither was the significantly higher horsepower of the students’ mounts. Through the course of the class, it became painfully obvious (although not in the physical sense) that superior riding skills were mostly due to mental training and focus, not bicep size. The day ended with a cadre of humbled, but wiser and more proficient student riders.

How does this all relate to your next motorcycle tour? The mental aspect of riding a motorcycle safely is of paramount importance, regardless of whether you’re riding to the neighborhood Starbucks or going cross-country. I’ve organized my tips for “riding in a proper state of mind” into the following three categories:

Before the Ride: Similar to going through a mechanical checklist of your bike before riding it, perform a mental status Q & A before hitting the starter button.

Am I fit, relaxed and calm? As noted above, riding a motorcycle proficiently and safely on the street requires a high degree of mental focus. That focus will be impaired if a rider is tired, emotionally upset or mentally distracted with other pressing matters. Make sure you’re rested and able to concentrate on the mental demands of motorcycling.
Have I considered the weather, road and other riding challenges I’m likely to encounter on today’s ride? Mentally project the riding conditions you are likely to encounter during the upcoming day’s ride so you will be mentally (and physically) prepared to deal with them; this also will reduce the likelihood of you encountering unanticipated problems. This is somewhat like an athlete envisioning a winning performance.
Was the last bike I rode different than the one I’m on now? Each motorcycle has its own unique handling and riding characteristics. Once your subconscious mind has been programmed on one bike, it usually stays programmed for that bike, at least for a period of time. Consequently, it’s usually wise not to ride your current mount aggressively, until the reprogramming has taken hold.
Am I preoccupied with thoughts other than those about today’s ride? If your conscious mind becomes focused on something other than the ride, the important external sensory information needed for safe riding is probably being compromised. Your subconscious mind may well know how to operate the motorcycle, but it may not be perceiving and processing possible threats, such as a stray dog running loose, debris in the road, a car entering from a driveway or a hundred other potential risks. Sometimes, distracted riders will automatically slow down, miss a turn, blow a curve or exhibit some other warning signal that lets them know their mental focus is compromised. If this happens to you, or you observe it in a fellow rider, it’s time to take a break and get refocused.
Are riding conditions distracting my concentration? Much of our passion for riding emanates from our experiencing the surrounding environment with all five senses. Those sensory experiences, though, can become mentally distracting if they’re too intense, usually in the form of heat or cold. Riders also can become distracted from physical discomfort, like a full bladder, a headache or some other malady. Riders should identify and eliminate the distraction at the earliest opportunity. Whether it’s stopping to cool down with a cold drink, adjusting layers of clothing, using the restroom or something else, it’s important to alleviate the cause of the mental distraction.

During the Ride: It’s important to monitor your state of mind and how it’s affecting your riding while you’re motoring along. Ask yourself these questions:

This is not to suggest, however, that riding a motorcycle will always be as comfortable as riding in an air conditioned car. It clearly won’t be, but riders should take the actions necessary to minimize physical discomfort when that discomfort is sufficiently high enough to compromise their mental focus. If the discomfort is moderate and not physically threatening, here’s a technique I’ve used quite successfully: just don’t think about it!

Am I in “the zone”? When someone first learns to ride a motorcycle, they have to consciously think about the actions necessary to operate their machine: let out the clutch, twist the throttle, change gears, look through the corner, push on the handlebars, properly apply braking, etc. Before venturing out on the street, however, these actions have to be practiced and become second nature, not requiring any conscious thinking.

To obtain a high level of riding proficiency and safety, however, motorcyclists must substantially expand and refine their basic riding skills. There are literally hundreds of additional techniques to be learned and riders should make progress learning and mastering them every year. Each new skill, whether it is learning how to ride through curves more effectively or adding new street survival skills for avoiding accidents, the process is always the same. Practice the technique until performing it becomes automatic or until it has migrated from your conscious mind to your subconscious mind. Riders always know when they’re riding with their mind, because they get that very pleasurable “Zen” or “in the zone” feeling of effortlessly flowing with the road. If you’re not flowing with the road, figure out why.

After the Ride: To continuously improve your riding and safety skills, it’s important to answer several questions after the ride:

What did I do or not do today that could have led to an accident? At the conclusion of the day’s ride, debrief yourself on whether you made decisions or took actions that increased your risk of an accident. For example, was I riding too aggressively around several blind curves or was there a “close call” that I could have avoided?
What were the lessons learned today for future rides? After your debriefing and self-evaluation, make a mental note of any changes needed to your riding style and strategy that will make you a better and safer rider in the future.

There’s no reason that proficient riding lessons learned have to be learned the hard way. Use your head and ride safe.

Touring Tip: Selecting a Touring Motorcycle

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 19:45:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

You’ve been riding locally for a while, but now want to start taking overnight trips of a much greater distance. Although any motorcycle (and many scooters) can be used for touring, some are much better for this purpose than others. Before the shopping phase of selecting a touring bike can begin, however, there are six fundamental questions you need to ask yourself:

How much can I afford to spend? In addition to the purchase price of the intended new or used bike, you also need to consider the cost of any modifications or aftermarket products needed to make the bike meet your touring needs. For example, if the intended touring bike is a standard (or naked) bike, the cost of installing an aftermarket windshield, luggage, seat, etc. should be added to the purchase price in determining how much the bike will cost.

Will I be riding solo or two-up? Touring with a passenger often translates into needing a more powerful bike with more carrying capacity than touring solo. As a rough guide, a two-up touring bike should have a carrying capacity (riders + gear and luggage) of at least 450 pounds. (GVWR – lbs. wet) and put out 60 hp or more.

What type of roads am I likely to be touring on? This is a key question to answer, because the answer will determine the best type of bike for your touring needs:

Interstate/Mostly Straight Roads: Luxury touring, cruisers, touring cruisers, standards
Twisty/Technical Paved Roads: Sport, sport-touring, standards, dual sports with at least 650cc.
Unpaved Roads: Dual sports with at least 650cc.

These are just general guidelines, because I’ve toured on gravel roads with cruisers and sport touring bikes (although not for a great distance), and I've also ridden cruisers and luxury touring bikes on technical, twisty roads and had a great time.

Do I plan on camping or staying in hotels/motels? If the intended touring bike will be carrying camping equipment, then it obviously will require greater luggage capacity than if you will be staying in accommodations with fixed walls and a roof. Also, it’s helpful for a touring bike taken on camping trips to have external hooks, grommets and other tie-down hardware for strapping-on additional gear externally.

What length of trips am I likely to take, both in terms of number of miles and days? Longer trips impact several of a bike’s key touring attributes discussed in the section below, including carrying capacity, fuel range, and comfort.

What is the maximum seat height of a bike that I can ride safely? Many touring bikes have adjustable seat heights and other bikes can be lowered an inch or so with aftermarket suspension components. Because fully loaded touring bikes are, by nature, heavy, it’s very important that riders not exceed a safe seat height for their particular inseam.

Answering the above questions, will give you a strong basis for evaluating the following key attributes of prospective touring motorcycles:

Reliability: The prospect of a breakdown on a lonely stretch of road far from home can be a most unpleasant experience. For this reason, a touring bike’s reliability is of paramount importance. Select a touring bike with a demonstrated reputation for reliability. If the bike under consideration is used, try to determine the care with which it has been maintained; have a qualified mechanic check it out before purchase. All other things being equal, when evaluating used bikes, less mileage is better than more.

Riding Range Before Refueling: This is somewhat dependent on what type of touring you will be doing and where you’ll be doing it. In highly populated areas, a range of 125-150 miles is probably sufficient. For more remote areas, a bike with a range of at least 175-200 miles should be selected. Auxiliary fuel tanks can extend a bike’s range, but be sure to observe proper safety precautions when transporting additional fuel on your motorcycle. For off-pavement touring in remote areas, it’s probably not possible to have too much fuel.

Carrying Capacity & Type of Luggage: Bigger bikes do not necessarily have more carrying capacity than smaller ones. Therefore, it’s important to calculate each bike’s carrying capacity by subtracting the bike’s wet weight from its GVWR. The amount of carrying capacity needed equals rider(s) weight + riding gear + luggage (and any camping gear). Also, the convenience factor of having lockable hard luggage is an important consideration in selecting a touring bike.

Comfort: A motorcycle’s long distance riding comfort often determines a rider’s level of enjoyment on a trip. Riding comfort is mainly a function of the following:

Wind Protection: Because wind buffeting is more tiring during a long day of riding, and it can increase the risk of hypothermia, wind protection is clearly one of the most important considerations in selecting a touring mount. Fortunately, the aftermarket can help you accessorize rides that don’t come with adequate wind protection from the factory.
Suspension: A bike with an adjustable front and rear suspension will allow riders to dial in the proper settings for the load they will be carrying. Unfortunately, many bikes have suspensions that aren’t adjustable, except possibly for preload and damping in the rear and are sprung too soft. Here again, the aftermarket can help supply solutions.
Seating Position: The ideal seating position for long distance riding is for the rider to be leaned slightly forward with his or her feet positioned under their thighs. Handle bars positioned below the triple clamp and rear set foot pegs put riders in a “jockey position,” which is great for corner carving, but can be quite tiring for the wrists, arms and legs. At the other extreme, the stretched out, laid-back riding position on some cruiser bikes concentrates the rider’s weight on the tailbone, which also can become very uncomfortable on a long-distance ride.
Seating Support: To help keep their motorcycles cost competitive, some manufacturers don’t provide a high quality seat with their new bikes. For multi-day riding, it’s important that a seat have firm support that’s not concentrated in one area. Even a relatively short motorcycle ride usually will reveal any shortcomings in a seat. If your stock seat doesn’t do the job for touring, aftermarket seats can provide a big improvement in long distance comfort. The best solution, however, may be a seat that is custom made both for your bike and your body.

Sportiness: There’s usually a noticeable trade-off between a bike’s sportiness and its comfort and carrying capacity. For example, a sport bike can be a lot of fun for a day of zooming over twisty tarmac, but it may not have the level of comfort and carrying capacity you need for extended trips. If you’re a young and spry sporty rider, who needs only enough luggage to carry fresh underwear, or if you’re older and much less spry, then the decision on what type of touring bike to select is probably not a difficult one. But most of us are somewhere in-between and there are sport-touring, standards, cruisers and other types of models that can meet our individual needs. And it’s worth mentioning that many of today’s larger touring bikes can be pretty agile on all but the most challenging roads. In the final analysis, though, only you can determine what the right mix of sportiness versus comfort will be for your touring expeditions.

Selecting the best bike to meet your needs, unfortunately, is made more complicated by the interactive nature of the considerations discussed above. For example the best motorcycle for your touring needs may be a luxury cruiser, but purchasing a new one may be cost prohibitive. One possible way to navigate through the selection process is to numerically rate each of the considerations. For example, estimate how likely it is that you will need extra carrying capacity for camping or riding with a passenger or how often (and how fast) you’ll be riding technical, twisty tarmac.

Don’t be overly concerned about trying to select the perfect bike to meet your motorcycle touring needs for the next 20 years, because your preferences and the motorcycling hardware offered by manufacturers will likely evolve over time. And who wants to ride the same mount for 20 years anyway?

Shopping for a Used Motorcycle

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 20:49:00 +0000

Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Buying a used motorcycle intelligently requires considerably greater effort than just walking into a showroom and selecting a new one. There are both risks and rewards with a previously owned machine. You can get far more bang for your buck, while letting the original buyer take the big depreciation loss. A used motorcycle purchase can have pitfalls though, so you’ll want to do some homework beforehand.

Before You Buy

Determine realistically what your budget is, and be sure to include money for potential repairs, tax, registration fees, and insurance. Next, choose the category of machine you’d like, such as touring, sportbike, cruiser, naked, sport-touring, or dual sport. Deciding what make, model, and year you want makes searching simpler, but it also could prevent you from finding a great deal on a comparable model.

Once you narrow down what you’re looking for, familiarize yourself with market values. There are price guides with extensive free listings, such as Kelly Blue Book and National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA). You can also get a good idea of what models are selling for by looking in large metropolitan newspapers, owner’s club magazines, and CycleTrader.com.

Research the common problems of the models you’re shopping for online (use a search engine such as Google) and by talking with enthusiasts. Some brands and models are very expensive to maintain. Before shopping, familiarize yourself with the cost of replacement parts and labor for service, such as valve adjustments on the specific model. Don’t be in a rush, and try to avoid buying the first bike you see unless it’s truly a great deal.

Too many buyers shop strictly by lowest price. It’s easy to overlook or minimize the amount of work a bike needs and the cost of repairs. Often a more expensive bike in better condition turns out to be the best value in the long run. If you plan to ride regularly for commuting, rather than just occasionally, then a low-mileage machine may make more sense.

Inspection and Test-Ride

Before even going to look at a motorcycle, ask the seller to email some high-quality digital pictures that show overall condition and close-up details in good light. And when you’re ready to go looking, never shop after dark or in inclement weather, as you’re likely to miss issues that would be more obvious in the light of day. Also, even if you are knowledgeable about motorcycles, bring an informed friend for a second opinion. If that’s not possible, find a shop that will do a pre-purchase inspection for you, and get the seller’s permission in advance.

When you go shopping, you’ll want your inspection to identify any signs of wear and tear from use, damage from abuse, crashes, or tip-overs, neglect from skipped maintenance, and exposure to the elements. Some of these potential problems can be determined just by looking, while others will require starting the engine and taking a test-ride.

Ask the seller not to start the bike before you arrive, as starting the bike cold will tell you more about its condition. Check the oil color: honey-colored indicates recently changed; black means old oil and neglect; white milky streaks indicate coolant is leaking into the oil; and metal flecks show major engine damage. Note how readily the engine cranks over and fires up, listen for unusual noises, and look for smoke. Blue smoke indicates oil consumption, while black smoke is from excessive fuel richness. Ask to see all service records and receipts.

Inspect the electrical system, gauges, battery, and lights. Test all accessories, lights, and switches. The sound of the starter cranking (if so equipped) is a fairly good indicator of the condition of both the battery and the starter.

On liquid-cooled bikes, check coolant level and color, but only open the radiator cap when the engine is cool. Coolant should be green, not rusty or murky brown, which is a clear sign of neglect. Oil in the coolant probably means major internal damage. Also, no coolant is very bad.

Many sellers will let you test the bike if you ride a motorcycle there, behave seriously and responsibly, inspect the bike thoroughly first, and have the money to buy. Do a pre-ride safety check and then take it for a careful test. Feel how the clutch engages – does it chatter or slip? Does it fully release when squeezed? Also note how the transmission operates – be on the lookout for false neutrals, hard shifting, noise, and jumping out of gear. Apply the brakes and push down on the suspension, noting how it responds. Test the brakes and controls for lever response and effectiveness. Without a test ride you can’t check these items properly.

On belt-drive bikes, check the condition of the belt and pulleys. On shaft-drive bikes, look for signs of oil leakage, and listen for noise when you test ride it. If the bike has chain drive, check the condition of the chain and sprockets. When stopped, grab the chain at the rear-most point, on the rear sprocket, and pull backward. If you can pull it off the sprocket enough to expose half of a sprocket tooth or more, it’s worn out. Hooked sprocket teeth require replacement.

If the handlebar seems out of alignment with the front wheel or anything looks crooked, the bike has probably been crashed. Check for problems such as a cracked or bent frame, fork, or swingarm. Also, inspect forks and shocks for leaks, scratches, rust, and bending. Look for changed or mismatched colors, damaged handlebars, mirrors, clutch/brake levers or turn signals. Be aware of dents or scrapes in the gas tank or exhaust, and broken or cracked plastic panels (sometimes covered by stickers). Additional signs of crashing are parallel scratches on engine cases, frame, fenders, and fairings.

Plating, paint, and bright work are very expensive to replace, and corrosion can cause all sorts of problems. Faded and weathered paint, decals, seats, gauges, and windscreens, plus rust, and pitted chrome and aluminum show that a bike was left uncovered, outdoors, for long periods. Peek inside the tank with your flashlight for rust and sediment, and sniff for stale gas, which smells like old varnish. If the gas is old and the bike doesn’t run well, it’ll need a thorough fuel-system service.

Check tires for cracks, tread depth and age. Look at both sides of both wheels for dents, cracks and damaged spokes. See if they wobble when turned. Tires should be replaced after five or six years, so be sure to inspect the date code, which is indicated by the last four digits following the DOT stamp on the sidewall. The third and forth digits from the end reference the week, while the last two digits indicate the year of manufacture. For example a date code of 2409 means the 24th week of 2009. Items such as tires, batteries, chains and sprockets are readily replaced and shouldn’t be deal-breakers, but their price with labor should be deducted.

Aftermarket parts such as hop-up kits, loud racing exhausts, rubber chunks around rear tires, etc. may indicate abuse. Holes drilled through the heads of bolts for safety-wire on brake caliper bolts, exhaust, engine, or drain plugs, show it was a race bike – which likely means lots of wear and tear.

Before purchase, ask about everything related to the bike, including keys, any free or included spare parts, plus the toolkit, owner’s manual, service manual, etc. Keep notes of all the pros and cons of each bike you look at and take photographs too. List the problems you find, and then use these in negotiating a good price, if necessary.

Buyer Beware

Try to shop locally. If a used motorcycle is far away, then it’s difficult to inspect the machine prior to purchase, and it’s costly to transport it. Sellers often optimistically rate the condition of their machine, but when you inspect the bike, it may be nowhere near as good as you expected. If you’ve traveled far, the effort expended could coerce you into making a purchase.

Consider what travel expenses and/or shipping costs will add to the purchase price. If you know someone who lives near the seller, ask if s/he will inspect it for you and verify the condition before you buy it.

Any time something seems too good to be true, it probably is. Often, the reason a bike is priced inexpensively is because it has serious problems. If there aren’t mechanical issues, it may have a salvage title, which could indicate major damage, or even stolen property with forged paperwork. Also, in some states, the buyer may be left with expensive penalties and renewal fees for an expired registration.

Before money changes hands, carefully compare the VIN on the frame and engine, to the VIN on the title. Verify that there’s a clear title in the name of the seller, without any lien holders, and get a signed bill of sale. Check the mileage recorded on the title, and also note if the indicated mileage is consistent with the bike’s condition.

As for the seller, know whom you’re dealing with. Ask to see a photo driver’s license, and compare the name and address to that on the title. Get a phone number and an actual address (not a PO box number), and then verify the information. Also watch out for scams, such as when a seller asks you for a substantial deposit up front and then disappears. It may seem like a nuisance, but the effort you expend now will pay big dividends later when you’ll be enjoying the long life-span of your used bike.

Vintage Bike Checklist

noreply@blogger.com (Trader Online) — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 14:31:00 +0000

Written By: GearHead.com

So you’ve just purchased a motorcycle that is as old as you. There is nothing quite like the feeling of riding a vintage motorcycle, however not all those old machines run like they used to, especially if it’s been sitting in someone’s shed for several years. First follow the steps on the Spring Clean post and then follow these additional tips for owning an older bike:

Manual: Buy a repair manual for your specific bike. It will pay for itself in the money you will save doing repairs and will be invaluable with diagrams, pictures, and information about your bike.

Cables and Brakes: Brakes and cables can and will fail if they have not been properly maintained. Many older bikes use only mechanical brakes, while others use hydraulic brakes. If yours uses cables, pay particular attention to where the cable is exposed and has the most degree of movement such as where it’s attached to the lever and where it’s attached to the brake arm. If there are any frayed strands of wire coming off the cable anywhere, replace with an OEM motorcycle part. If the cable seems sticky at all, go ahead and replace it. You can also use some light oil (30 weight or less) and lube the cables. To do this tape a funnel to the top of the cable and then slide the cable up and down in the housing to work the oil down the inside of the cable. It’s a good idea to inspect the brakes hardware as well. Check caliper boots and seals for cracks and put a tiny dab of grease on the drum brake cam (don’t put too much on as you don’t want it to get anywhere else) for smooth operation.

Fuses: Most older bikes use the glass style fuses and these can become corroded with time and weather and do not conduct as well. In some cases the metal caps separate from the glass body of the fuse. If they look at all in bad shape, replace them, especially since it will only cost you a few bucks to replace all of them. Always keep a couple spare fuses in your tool kit as well.

Carburetor: If the bike has been sitting for a while, it doesn’t hurt to do a thorough cleaning of the carb. Using the manual you purchased in step one, disassemble the carb paying particular attention to the slide, main and secondary jets, all passages, float bowl (especially the bottom where the main jet pulls fuel), and the float valve. Be especially careful that everything is clean when reassembling as even a small piece of dirt can cause problems with the float valve. It’s always a good idea to put a clear plastic inline fuel filter on the gas line going to the carburetor. This will protect your carburetor from foreign contaminants and also tell you what condition your gas tank is in. When going through the carburetor, be sure to get a carb rebuild kit and replace all the gaskets and seals. Always use OEM parts when replacing carburetor parts such as gaskets and jets. Check the float valve for wear. If there is a noticeable wear line or you have problems with fuel coming out of the overflow tube, replace it with a float valve that has a rubberized tip. If your carb uses vacuum actuated slides, check the diaphragms for holes or cracking.

Gas tank: Fuel tanks on older bikes are notorious for having cancerous rust. Remove the fuel cap and inspect the inside of the tank thoroughly for rust. If there is rust, there are treatments available such as Kreem, which treats the rust and then coats the inside of your tank with a plastic type coating. This type of treatment can be very effective even on pretty rusty tanks. If it’s really bad, you may want to look at finding a replacement tank from a salvage yard.

Seat: While not always a critical issue, many seat pans on older bikes can be very rusty due to water getting trapped in the foam and sitting on metal for long periods of time. Check the seat for cracks in the vinyl and remove or lift up the seat and inspect the underside for rust. Aftermarket seat covers are readily available online but a new seat pan may be more difficult to track down. Your best bet for a pan would be a salvage yard.

Spark plugs: Check the spark plug(s) for signs of engine problems and replace or clean if necessary. They will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine. Make sure the gap is set correctly according to your repair manual. Also check plug wires for cracks or wear and replace if necessary.

Air filter: Check the air filter and clean/replace if necessary. Paper filters are generally not very serviceable other than blowing off with compressed air, so replace if you can’t see light coming through it.

Hoses: Hoses tend to get brittle and crack after years of use. Inspect all fuel lines and breather tubes for cracks and replace if hose is stiff or brittle at room temperatures. Also check coolant hoses and oil lines for cracks, leaks, and signs of wear.

In conclusion, always use genuine OEM factory motorcycle parts for critical parts so you know they will be up to factory specs and fit perfectly. If you’re not sure where to get parts from, check out the post on buying motorcycle parts. Have fun and be safe!