Why We Go to Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo, which we attend annually, is the premiere men’s fashion show in the world. Florence Italy is a long ways to go for a small store and with such a wide range of fashion, only a small amount interprets to our “look”. We go for inspiration, to spot trends, find unique product and to observe men who understand that style is the visual expression of being a gentleman. Check out this documentary to feel the experience for yourself.

https://manofmany.com/fashion/watch-four-days-june-pitti-uomo-documentary

Rags to Riches

Our tailor shop has produced some amazing alterations and repairs, but this takes the cake. A customer who we will call Al, came in with pieces of his four most favorite jeans.

His plea was clear and simple: “make as many jeans as you can from the parts of four”. We made three, and an example of one is pictured. He was overcome with joy.

 

See you soon,

DW

 

Bring on the New Season

Now that we are over regretting the loss of sun and warmth… the loss of linen jackets, summer colors, sun glasses, the dilemma of.. to wear socks or not. The slam of screen doors, open windows and gin drinks.

Now that the Autumn foliage reminds us that indeed the seasons have changed, it is time to enjoy sartorially what Fall has to offer.

How about the addition of a light wool scarf? It is not just the warmth of the fabric around your neck, it is a signal to passersby that you are a man who cares how he looks. The addition of a subtle dash of pattern and color.

Or corduroy trousers that are perfect for cool mornings and warmer afternoons.

The colors and texture of a Shetland crewneck sweater.

Our shelves and bar racks are brimming with these necessities and indulgences.

 

See you soon,

DW

Style Musings #1: Matching a Belt with Shoes


First of all, strike the word matching and even the word coordinate. Either usually look like your're trying too hard. Compliment is the approach. My only rule is black shoes, black belt. The belt stands between the shirt and trouser and should look good against both. The shoes are a long ways away. 

A few ideas:

1. Same color but mix the tones, e.g. dark brown with a slightly lighter brown shoe.

2. Same color but mix the texture, e.g. a lizard grain with a flat finish calfskin brogue.

3. Complimentary colors, e.g. a mahogany belt looks great with about any color shirt, pant and shoes.

 

See you soon,

DW
 

The Band Collar: This Simple and Refreshing Classic is New Again.

SUMMER STYLE TIP #1

 

Perfect and easy for dressing down in the Summer with Shorts or Jeans . . . and uncompromisingly dressy enough to be worn under your favorite sport jacket for a night on the town.  

 

And please, please wear linen this summer. Because of its’ gauzy weave and textured surface (wrinkled completely acceptable), there is no better and cooler fabric for summer. The wrinkles are what linen is all about– 'texture of summer.'

 

See you soon,

DW

Wardrobe Simplicity

This is the first blog entry on our new website. We intend to edit these carefully, both in frequency and content. Most will be about our philosophy that it is not the size of the wardrobe, but about the "effectiveness" of the wardrobe.

We believe in clothes that fit, have a specific function, and will remain stylish throughout the life of the garment.

Occasionally we will talk about how to take care of an effective wardrobe. Sometimes we will talk about things that we like and don't sell. Even clothing. And from time to time, we will speak about the companies we keep. The manufacturers we have developed long-standing relationships with that allow us to offer products that reflect our style and commitment to quality.

 

See you soon,

DW

Sprezzatura

They do it in New York. They do it in London and Berlin. And they do it in Italy. Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples: this Fall men are wearing quilted vests over their suit jackets.

Although quilting is an old style of clothing making, the modern quilted vest was an innovation of the 1960s, invented by an American expat living in England. An item which quickly gained popularity among the genteel English country set, it was picked up by the Italians.

It took a man of true style--sprezzatura, or casual elegance, as the Italians say--to begin wearing his quilted vest not under, but over, his suit jacket. Gianni Agnelli, the CEO of Fiat from 1966 to 1996, who introduced us to so many hallmarks of Italian style--the unbuttoned button-down collar, the loafer or boot with a suit, the unbuttoned surgeons’ cuffs on a jacket--was that man.

Agnelli’s style was based on expedience--he famously wore his watch OVER his shirt cuff so he did not waste time pulling his shirtsleeve up. The quilted vest was the perfect insulation for his visits to the shop floor, layering against the chill while keeping his arms unconstricted. The casual mix of sporty and sophisticated shocked his compatriots at first, but soon they were following his example.

Our vests come from Waterville, a small Italian company in Sequals, a little town between Venice and the Alps. Layered over a Southwick jacket or Samuelsohn suit, they are the perfect thing for keeping out this late Autumn chill, with a touch of sophistication.

 

See you soon,

DW

 

Traditional French Walking Shoe

Fall. The season of changing colors, crunching leaves, and first frosts. The season we New Englanders supposedly look forward to for nine months of the year. It is a time when you want to feel the cool air on your cheek and the warm sun on your brow. A time to go for a walk. And walk we Mainers do--down roads, through woods, along shores, up mountains.  At David Wood, of course, our thoughts are always on style and we have traditionally advocated a New England shoe for our New England pastime. An Alden chukka boot, made in Massachusetts, for support. Or a Rancourt moccasin, made in Maine, for comfort. But this year we have something different. A traditional walking shoe from Paraboot--a French shoe-maker with a pedigree going back a century.

Why Paraboot? It is not just the elegant simplicity of design or the soft chesnut color of the leather, perfect to match the brown and orange hues this time of year. It is the structure--an extra-durable, extra-flexible European method of making a shoe called the Norwegian stitch. Picture a shoe. It has the leather part on top, called the “upper.” Then there’s the “insole,” the part of the sole touching your foot, and a separate “outsole,” the part of the sole touching the ground.

There are two typical ways of assembling these pieces, both named for Massachusetts inventors of the 19th century: the Blake Stitch and the Goodyear Welt. The Blake Stitch, which Rancourt uses, is simple: a single, vertical stitch attaches these three pieces together. It is light and flexible, but perceived as less durable. The Goodyear Welt, used by Alden, stitches these three pieces together through an additional layer called the “welt,” giving the shoe greater durability and improved resistance to the elements. Paraboot’s Norwegian Stitch incorporates both methods: a horizontal stitch attaches the insole to the upper and welt, while a vertical stitch attaches the outsole to the upper and welt. It keeps the shoe comfortable, while ensuring extreme durability and an almost totally waterproof wear. Combined with Paraboot’s signature deep-lug rubber sole for additional friction, it may just be the perfect walking shoe.

We think you will find these shoes designed for an Autumn in the Ardennes just as well suited to Fall in Maine.

 

See you soon,

DW

What is a Classic?

My theory (as it relates to men’s clothing) is that a style of clothing—or a specific item of clothing—only becomes a classic if the elements of design are pleasing to the eye and, functionally, the garment works.

This is true of shirts made from madras AND specifically “Bleeding Madras”.

I am talking about the madras that all the “cool” guys were wearing back in the 1960’s. Hand loomed in India, they were dyed in such a way that the colors blended together and didn’t fade away, creating a unique and beautiful patina, like an old favorite wallet or a brass bell. The demise of bleeding madras occurred only because the dyes were deemed environmentally unsafe. Authentic bleeding madras has not been available for more than forty-five years.

Three months ago we got a call from a gentlemen named Aleck who remembered bleeding madras, loved it, and had taken on the challenge of duplicating a madras fabric that was environmentally safe and possessed the same character as the original. Environmentally safe dyes were already available. All that was missing was the dyers and weavers who remembered the process.

It was a long search, but ultimately he found a village in India with one elder who did.

This is where we come in. Having discovered a means to source the fabric, our friend had no idea how to turn the fabric into a shirt. He knew the original Madras shirts were made by Gant in New Haven, so made in New England was another requirement. Fond of Portland, Aleck contacted us. We—as you can probably tell—were excited as he was and off the order went to our friend Bob at New England Shirt in Fall River, MA.

We received the initial shipment of yardage in July. By August we were offering the first bleeding madras shirt for sale in over four decades. I am old enough to remember the character and comfort of this shirt (a silky hand), and I felt we had the “Real McCoy”. We sold them out in four days.

The three patterns below are in production in India. The handlooms can only produce 4-6 yards a day. It is a slow process, but we should have the new fabric by mid-October. We are taking pre-orders for an anticipated delivery of mid-November. The cut will be slightly trimmer than the original but with the same “Ivy” detail of the original: button-down, with a third button on the back of the collar, locker loop, and a full box pleat in the back. $175 in sizes Small-2X.

 

See you soon,

DW

Pattern Mix Part I

One of our customers, let's call him Joe, inspired my first Blog about mixing patterns. This may be a store record; I count six patterns if you include the vertical pattern of the corduroy jacket. A striped tie is always a good compliment to a check shirt. The size of the Faire Isle patterned sweater is different enough in scale to both the shirt and the tie. The small dot pattern of the scarf (the Churchill dot) pairs well with almost any patterns. Good show, Joe!

Hobbies

We are continually impressed (and humbled) with the hobbyist skills of some of our customers. This is an example of one customer's passion for restoring antique automobiles, a 1926 Marmon D74 Dual Ignition (there are only a few left and probably none as well restored). The shop is meticulously maintained and equipped.

See you soon,

DW

 

A few words about style.

Why dress in a stylish way? 1. To be visually pleasing to the people who look at you and 2. The sense of well-being when you achieve a personal style that is in harmony with who you are. 

Frank Sinatra sums it up when he admonishes Bing Crosby in the song You've Either Got Or You Haven't Got Style: “Some people dress like they want to get dressed, you just get dressed to get dressed".

Yes it is easier for some than others BUT we can all achieve a personal style if the desire is there and the effort made.

 

See you soon,

DW

 

Dress well from a small space

 
 

This is the first Blog entry on our new website. We intend to edit these carefully, both in frequency and content. Most will be about our philosophy that it is not the size of the wardrobe, but about the "effectiveness" of the wardrobe. Our belief in clothes that fit, function and remain stylish throughout the life of the garment. Occasionally we will talk about how to take care of an "effective" wardrobe. Sometimes we will talk about things that we like and don't sell. Even clothing. And from time to time, we will speak about the companies we keep. The manufacturers we have developed long-standing relationships with that allow us to offer products that reflect our style and commitment to quality.

 

See you soon,

DW

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