Debutante Clothing

Book Review: The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping

2009-11-09T08:00:00Z

It always baffles me when I browse through Etsy.com's vintage section or troll Ebay.com for vintage steals. More often than not, I see 1980s garments being sold as 20s flapper dresses, or worse, fringed polyester flapper costumes from Halloween super stores being listed as RARE! flapper dress. I want to take my already loved copy of The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping and scream, Here! Read this!.

If you are new to vintage, or thinking of starting, this is a MUST read book. Written by a well respected member of the Vintage Fashion Guild, Melody Fortier has been in the vintage fashion business for almost 2 decades. And she has proven her know how in this business in her wonderfully insightful book.

There are several books on collecting vintage clothing and accessories that merely give you bios on famous designers and tons of beautiful pictures. That's great for a coffee table or reference book. But The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping is truly a guide, and instructional manual on how to shop for quality vintage, and loaded with tons of insider tips.

The book is adorable. It has the illusion of being an old, embroidered cloth covered book. it's small and compact enough to fit in your bag - perfect for shopping. But let's talk about why this book is so invaluable.

Chapter 1 Vintage Defined gives you an overview of vintage is, and what it is not (ahem, 1990s) and a wonderful little glossary of some terminology you should know as a buyer. Not all designer is couture but that word is thrown around and awful lot, with a price tag to match.

Chapter 2 On the Market talks about options for places to buy and important considerations when shopping for quality.

Chapter 3 Styles of the Times gives an overview of typical styles for each decade with a great visual time line of silhouettes

Chapter 4 Dating Dilemmas (my favorite chapter) discusses how experts determine dates of garments: silhouettes, tags, labels, buttons, zippers, seams, and fabrics

Chapter 5 Sizing It Up gives you tips on how to measure and which measurements to pay attention to to ensure a good fit as well as typical silhouette features for each decade that could determine if the style is right for your body (I'm very 40s and 50s shaped)

Chapter 6 Labels and Pricing gives a good guideline for determining how much something is worth based on the designer and/or label. This is extremely helpful for today's market, but keep in mind that prices are set by the market at any given time.

Chapter 7 Condition and Care (another favorite chapter) gives tips on what to avoid when shopping, how to care for your vintage, how to determine what fabric the garment is made of (pre-1970s garments do not have care tags). These are tips that only experts know. I was impressed

Chapter 8 Finishing Touches discusses accessories and shoes, and equally important segment in the vintage marketplace

Chapter 9 Altered States (a surprising chapter) is all about how to alter vintage for the modern wardrobe, and what you should not alter - couture for one.

Throughout the book, you'll see colorful images of vintage pieces - some to illustrate the chapter, some are just eye candy. This is not a coffee table book, or a collector's book so you won't find the one page images of vintage. There are also expert tips from vintage sellers and authors sprinkled throughout the book.

There is a very brief section on great places to shop for vintage. A whole book can be, and has been, published on this topic alone so I didn't mind that it was brief.

All in all, I have to say I was very impressed with the breadth of knowledge that was published in this book. For such a little guide, you gets volumes of expert knowledge that the average vintage shopper might not know.

If you love wearing and shopping for vintage, or if you are a new vintage seller, I highly recommend The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping.

Be the Buyer at Modcloth.com

2009-10-28T07:00:00Z

I got an email from the vintage lovely folks at Modcloth.com. If you love vintage, as I'm sure you do if you read my little blog, then you probably love the vintage and vintage inspired selection at Modcloth.com. Love it enough to try your hand at buying for the shop? Here's your chance.

ModCloth wants you to Be the Buyer. They are asking customers to help the ModCloth buying team select designs to be produced and sold on ModCloth! Be the Buyer allows customers to be virtual members of ModCloth's fashion buying team, and invites you to vote on potential clothing designs.

We'll showcase these designs on the site, and using a 'Pick It' button, shoppers can vote for their favorites. If a style gets enough votes, the design will be produced and sold by ModCloth, and participants will be notified via email.

This means that within a few weeks of voting, participants might be wearing a design they chose!

I'm hoping something flapperish and frivolous shows up. I'm feeling sassy. Check out their blog for more details.

And if that weren't enough, they are also having a killer sale. 50-80% off selected merchandise. What are you waiting for?!

Be Karl Lagerfeld for Halloween

2009-10-27T13:39:24Z

I found this great Halloween costume idea on one of my favorite blogs, What I Wore. Jessica is so creative when it comes to styling that I'm not surprised she was able to put this together. Of course, my non-fashiony friends would assume I am a hip George Washington. photo source: What I Wore

Vintage Themed Events

2009-10-09T13:13:10Z

SNAP SNAP
The Americans and Beat Poetry What: One-day intensive poetry writing workshop inspired by Robert Frank's legendary portfolio and the literary cats of the time.
Why: Just in the nik of time.
When: Sat., 11 a.m.
Where: MOCA, 250 S. Grand Ave., at 3rd St., Downtown.
To register, call 213-621-1745 or e-mail education@moca.org.

MANHATTAN VINTAGE CLOTHING AND ANTIQUE TEXTILE SHOW AND SALE
When: Friday, October 9th - 1:00 PM TO 8:00 PM
Saturday, October 10th - 11:00 AM TO 6:00 PM
Where: Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street (Between 6th & 7th Aves)
Admission $ 20.00

Photo: via The Invisible Agen

RIP Irving Penn

2009-10-08T13:12:35Z

The most celebrated fashion photographer of the 20th century has passed. Irving Penn, the master photographer whose fashion images in Vogue magazine for more than six decades bridged the gap between commercial photography and fine art, died Wednesday morning at his home in New York City. He was 92.

Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn in Balenciaga, 1950.
Photo by Irving Penn/Conde Nast Archive

models 1947 Photo by Irving Penn/Conde Nast Archive

via WWD

TodaysVintage.com :: Living La Vida Vintage

2009-10-07T07:00:00Z

My latest article for Today's Vintage magazine is live. I got to interview two of my favorite vintage loving girls, Solanah of Vixen Vintage and the famous pin up model, Bernie Dexter. You won't find sweeter, more fabulously stylish women then these two. Check out the article on TodaysVintage.com. By the way, what other type of vintage articles would you be interested in reading?

Style Rachel Zoe & Win $150 from Piperlime

2009-10-05T13:42:53Z

Closet Couture is the fantastic site where you can style using real clothing - online! It's so easy to enter... just make outfits in the editor's dressing room and save them. The dressing room is filled with Rachel Zoe picks for Piperlime! Enter here.

Links à la Mode : October 1 The Dos and Don'ts of Style

2009-10-04T19:47:29Z

Edited by Debutante Clothing

I just turned 35. It's a landmark year not just chronologically, but style wise. I am now approaching that next age bracket in the How to Dress for Your Age features in mags. You know the ones. Thank goodness for my blogger pals here at Independent Fashion Bloggers. You'll find some of the best style guides here this week. Guides such as Mischief My Dear's advice on finding the perfect LBD and Fasshonaburu's Spring 2010 trends guide. But beware the urge to dress too sexy. 39th and Broadway tells you why toddlers and stilletos don't mix, and Squareectomy questions the taste level of visible thongs. Enjoy!

Links à la Mode : October 1st

39th and Broadway - - Toddlers, Stilettos, Thongs, Oh My!

Awakened Aesthetic - - features t-shirts by the Samburu Project, which provides drinking water to the Samburu District in Northern Kenya.

Bobbins And Bombshells - - veiled headband fascinator DIY tutorial

Debutante Clothing - - vintage paper dresses that are anything but disposable

Fasshonaburu - - Sure peaked shoulders and sequins and tribal were on the runways... again. But here are five NEW trends to come out of Spring 2010 NY Fashion Week!

fête à fête - - Vouelle's new Fall-Winter 2009-2010 shoe collection, straight from Paris!

Friend in Fashion - - A vintage tale: gorgeous lace & bows

Hong Kong Fashion Geek - - VPL's anatomy-inspired spring collection, and how to replicate the skeletal fascination right now

Idiosyncratic Style - - Awesome style from the brit drama Skins

Independent Fashion Bloggers - When should you start charging money for your blogging experience?

Jewelrywhore - - Madeleine Albright is kicking butt with her brooches

Mishief My Dear - - four versions of the Little Black Dress that should be in every woman's wardrobe

Oranges and Apples - - A guide to vintage shopping in Berlin

Squareectomy - - More Exposed Bits: the less flattering side of the fashion world

Super Kawaii Mama - - Travel Essentials to keep it glam! The secrets to staying fancy in flight.

The Coveted - - Do Fashion Blogs Glamorize Smoking?

The Demoiselles - - Elle answers a reader's question about being an in-betweeny - not quite plus size, not quite "regular"

The Fashion Planner - - shows you how to get the look of Marc by Marc Jacobs.

The Working Wardrobe - - perfecting the business "ice breaker" by working your accessories (that don't thaw out your assets).

Where Is That From? - - eco fashion show featuring local Toronto designers and design collectives

Wrapped in Fashion - the Paper Dress

2009-09-18T07:00:00Z

Project Runway SPOILER ALERT!

Folks in media are constantly speculating on the death of print. Ironically, one of the most collectible garments in vintage fashion is the the paper dress. Last night's Project Runway was such a thrill to watch because the designers were challenged to design a dress made of Los Angeles Times newspapers. Booth Moore, Los Angeles Times fashion critic, was a guest.

Tim Gunn gave a brief fashion history lesson on the paper dress - Project Runway contestants always seem short on their history knowledge don't they?

In 1966, Scott Paper Company created a paper dress as a marketing tool. For one dollar, women could buy the dress and receive coupons for Scott products. No one could've predicted the popularity of this new and practical fad. Even Andy Warhol joined the paper dress craze with his famous Campbell's soup print dress.

In my interview with Katy Kane, Katy revealed her affection for vintage paper dresses. She owns a few collectible examples and is always looking for more parchment frocks. My friend and vintage colleague, Jonathan Walford, co founder of the Fashion History Museum in Guelph, Canada, wrote a must read book about vintage paper dress titled Ready to Tear: Paper Fashions of the 60s. In the book, Jonathan explains the history of the paper dress, which we associate with the 1960s, but actually can be traced to the 1800s.

An image of a paper raincoat from the 1920s caught my eye, especially after watching Irina win tonight's Project Runway challenge with her stunning trench coat.

Like this week's Project Runway show, creating something wearable out of paper takes risk, creativity, and innovation. Proof positive that the last time we saw something new in fashion design was up until the mid 20th century.

Anna Sui: Dr. Dolittle Goes to a Mod 1830 Circus

2009-09-18T07:00:00Z

I loved Anna Sui's Spring 2010 collection. I especially love her explanation of her influence for her super fun and girlie show. Check out the runway show!

Vintage Inspired - J. Peterman 1930s lace dress

2009-09-16T13:37:39Z

Once in a while, i run into a friend or acquaintance that has no idea that the company Elaine from Seinfeld worked for really exists. J. Peterman is a real catalog, a real company, and yes, the copy is as witty as Elaine. And if you are a fan of vintage style, you'll love the clothing.

Men and women alike can find reproduction, vintage style fashion in every J. Peterman catalog. When I say reproduction, I don't mean cheap knock offs with modernized details. I mean that the only way you would be able to tell these garments are knew is if you inspected them for signs of age. These garments are so fantastically reproduced due to the fact that the little fashion elves at J. Peterman actually buy vintage garments in order to recreate them in large quantities.

Normally, I'm a bit miffed by such practices coming from fashion designers. But I think that I can appreciate it coming from J. Peterman because at least the company is honest about it. They don't try to take the credit for something that was created 70 years prior. Or maybe it is more palatable coming from the silver tongue that is J. Peterman...

She was part black.

She was part Irish.

They called her Bricktop, because of her flaming red hair.

And Ada Smith's "Bricktops" on Place Pigalle in Montmartre was the place to go.

"Bricktop" said she judged the success of a night by the number of kings in the house.

One night she had five kings and the Prince of Wales.

But Cole Porter was the only one who had a special table reserved for him.

Even when he wasn't there.

The in crowd came to hear her sing, and they came to be seen.

And if you had a dress like this, you were there too.

A little risqué just like the place you were in.

When Bricktop sang "Embraceable You," John Steinbeck told her, "You take 20 years off a man's life."

Same thing can be said for this confection of sheer magic.

1930's Vintage Black Lace Dress (No. 2584). Two layers of lace work their allure. Black lace over nude lace so you won't get arrested. Just enough shows through. Scoop neckline. V shape back. Lower-calf length. Hidden center back zipper with hook and eye. All the elegance of old lace with the easy to maneuver advantage of modern fabric. Imported.

"There's a party...where?"

Women's sizes: 2 through 18.

Color: Black lace over nude lace.

Today and Always, I Love NY

2009-09-11T13:44:28Z

I embrace you NY.

Now at Today's Vintage - Look Like a Million Bucks in Vintage Couture

2009-09-02T04:26:19Z

My latest article for Today's Vintage, a magazine for the collectibles and vintage, is live! It's all about one of my favorite aspects of vintage fashion - vintage couture. You'll see some familiar names in the article too. Doris Raymond of the Way We Wore, Katy Kane of Katy Kane Vintage Couture, and Cherie of Shrimpton Couture. It was great interviewing all of three of these lovely ladies, and clothes! Oh the clothes.

Here's a snippet:

Look Like a Million Bucks in Vintage Couture
9/1/2009
By Sandra Mendoza-Daly, Editor, DebutanteClothing.com
Even in a down economy, the vintage clothing market is moving steadily along. One particular segment of the vintage fashion sector is surviving the tightening of the proverbial belt and no doubt the belt bears the name Gucci or Hermes. Vintage couture is alive and well and vintage couture dealers are riding out the slow economy in style.

Check out the FULL STORY...

I hope you love it!

Q&A with Vintage Fashion Historian Heather Vaughan

2009-08-28T07:00:00Z

In the world of vintage fashion, there seems to be three camps: the wearers, the collectors, and the scholars. The wearers and the collectors can be the same person - I wear the vintage I collect that is in my size and that is flattering for me. But the scholars are usually in a very well educated world of their own. They study and write about fashion history in such great depth - curating museum collections, publishing articles in scholarly journals. And yes, some even hold PhDs in fashion.

Heather Vaughan is one of these supremely intelligent fashion addicts. Her addiction to revolutionary and historically important designers such as Schiaparelli and Adrian have led her down a path of study where jobs are scarce, but passion for fashion is abundant. Meet fashion historian, curator, and writer, Heather Vaughan.

DebutanteClothing: Being a scholar of fashion isn't an obvious career path. What led you here?

Heather Vaughan: My beginnings as a historian of fashion began with an interest in theatrical costuming and script analysis as an undergraduate. I had a passion for the 'why' of the costume and how it reflected character. It was the basis of my interest in the socio-cultural forces behind clothing and dress. Linked with that was my interest in history and how history has changed the socio-cultural forces that affect fashion choices of the individual. I came to examine why it was that I loved 'vintage' clothing so much and found that really, it was about these 'things' being objects of and from the past: made, purchased and worn by specific people at a specific time. The object as evidence of history was the theoretical framework that drew me in and kept me interested. In particular my love of writing about this subject is what keeps me wedded to it.

DC: Are there schools or programs of study you would recommend to an aspiring fashion scholar/historian?

HV: I am asked this question frequently, so I'm glad to have it asked here. It really does depend on what you hope to do with the degree after you use it, and where you want to do it. For me, New York University's Visual Culture: Costume Studies program was perfect for me. It was heavy in history, art, and museum studies. There are many other programs that focus on other elements: fashion industry trending, textile history, theatrical costuming, etc. I will say however, that some of the best programs (both PhD and M.A.) seem to be in the United Kingdom: the Courtauld, and the Royal College of Art to name just a few. Others in the US include F.I.T., Bard, Oregon State University, Kent State, and the University of Minnesota.

I do want to caution others considering this as a career path: this is not a growing field. Jobs are few and far between, so if you are considering one of these programs I would strongly recommend talking to a graduate of the given program to find out what their experience was, and what their job prospects have been. Above all, do your homework. Read Anne Hollander, Aileen Ribeiro, Valerie Steele, Lou Taylor, Christopher Breward, JoAnn Eicher, Roland Barthes (the Fashion System), and Fred Davis to figure out where your interests lie. Or better yet - read what's been written by the professors at a given school to see what their slant is. It can go a long way to getting you to the best place.

DC: How does a writer and historian differ from other fashion journalism roles?

HV: That's a good question. For me it's very clear - I don't write freelance articles for newspapers or magazines. I write long in-depth papers for academic journals and conferences. I also really avoid 'current trends' as much as possible-something that is often the focus of fashion journalists. I'm a firm believer that you can't really see a trend clearly until it IS history. Journalists write for the sake of disseminating the most current, up-to-date state of the fashion world. They write what I think of as 'fast fashion' - what's happening now, tomorrow, in the future. I like to think I write 'slow fashion' - contemplative academic pieces that may take a while and lots of thinking and research to put together. That's not to say fashion journalists don't do research or think - they just have less time to do it in.

DC: What is a typical day in a fashion historian's day look like?

HV: Ha - well, I am not a typical fashion historian, so for me it's a nine to five job in an unrelated field, with most of my 'fashion historian' hat time in the evenings. Computer research is ever-more a part of my day. A good number of academic databases (historic newspaper articles and photographs are more and more available online). There is the odd day with a trip to a library or museum to do additional research. Recently, I made a trip out to the Library of Congress for a week to do research for a book project. There are occasional trips to conferences to present papers as well. More typically, an historian associated with a specific museum will involve cataloging, care of collections, research, preparing for exhibitions and other similar tasks.

DC: What is the best part of your career? The worst?

HV: The best part is the objects. Far and away, if I get to examine and explore a the seams, construction and design of an actual piece I am a very happy camper. Being an independent makes those opportunities rare but incredibly valuable. The worst is not having enough time in the day to do all the research that I want to. If I could spend all day, every day doing historical or object research I would be extremely happy.

Schiaparelli gowns

DC: When it comes to research and study, which are your favorite fashion icons?

HV: It's hard to reconcile those two ideas - because to me, the most interesting research and study is done on the people who are not icons of fashion design (necessarily). I like to know and understand designers who may not have been given the amount of recognition that perhaps they should have. I like to shed light on portions of history that have not yet been studied. For example, I recently began some research on a little studied San Francisco based designer who worked between 1880 and 1918. She was very well known to the inner circle of San Francisco's high society of that era, but no one today would call her an icon.

That said, my favorite designers would have to be Elsa Schiaparelli, Gilbert Adrian, Philip Tracey, Roger Vivier, Andre Perugia and Alexander McQueen. (I like designers who bring a strong artistic sense to their designs).

DC: A common complaint on reality fashion shows is that aspiring designers do not know their fashion history. How important is it for current designers to know fashion history?

HV: Given the popularity of Marc Jacobs, who borrows constantly from fashion history, I would suggest that it is in their own best interests to know their fashion history. It's like sampling from a song that you don't know all the words to: you could be missing something big, or saying something you don't intend to. Learning from those who came before you is hugely important in any field, and those who want to get ahead should learn from histories mistakes.

Knowing art history is also hugely helpful for designers, and museums are a wonderful source of inspiration for any kind of design work. As an aside, I believe that Zac Posen interned at the Met's Costume Institute to get a better handle on fashion history. Knowing how Vionnet and Madame Gres mastered the bias cut, and how YSL transitioned from the strict Dior hourglass silhouette to the more 'relaxed' trapeze line is important for any young new designer to learn.

DC: Which current designers do you feel will be worthy of study in the future?

HV: I've already mentioned Alexander McQueen, but I also think Galliano, Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Philip Lim as well as Isabel and Rueben Toledo . Many of these designers already have a long and distinguished history in the fashion world, so its hard for me to think of them as not already having been studied.

DC: Every decade has a look that epitomizes the era. What do you feel will be the "look" of the 2000s?

HV: Unfortunately, all that comes to mind are things I have disliked about the 2000s: leggings; Uggs; high-waisted jeans; and oversize aviator sunglasses.

DC: You are a regular contributor to Wornthrough.com, a blog about fashion history. What other plans are on your horizon?

HV: Beginning in October, I will be focusing fairly intently on the research and writing for a book project combining the study of both fashion and costume design in the 1920s and 1930s in Hollywood and New York. I'll also be continuing my work for Worn Through and the Costume Society of America's Western Region.

Check out Heather's writing at wornthrough.com and find out what she's working on at her website FashionHistorian.net

Kerry Taylor Auction Sept. 15 - the Marit Allen Collection

2009-08-27T07:00:00Z

It's that time again! Kerry Taylor auctions is having a sale on September 15. This auction is a collection of clothing from the 1960s to the 1990s belonging to the late British fashion journalist, model and costume designer Marit Allen. If you are a swinging 60s fan, or just can't get enough of Biba, John Bates, Mary Quant, or Zandra Rhodes, then this auction is a must attend.

If you've ever dreamed of working in fashion, either in magazines, costuming or styling, or for some of you ambitious girls, all of the above, than Marit is someone to look up to. Check out her bio from KerryTaylorAuctions.com:

Marit Allen was an extraordinary person. In her lifetime she managed to have two extremely successful but very different careers but both linked by her love of dress - firstly as a fashion journalist and Vogue editor in the groovy London of the 'Swinging Sixties' and latterly as a world renowned film costume designer. Those who knew her and worked with her also commented on her generosity of spirit and kindness - rarely found traits in the competitive worlds of fashion and film.
Marit was born in Cheshire in 1941 of an English father and Norwegian mother. She always had a passion for fashion magazines and after school and a brief period studying in France she moved to London determined to pursue her ambitions as a fashion journalist. She lobbied Queen magazine until she gained an interview with the owner Jocelyn Stevens. Marit's unique personal style always turned heads with her impish, gamine figure, large owl-like specs (at a time when most people would rather squint myopically than ruin their look by wearing them) and short skirts. She looked the part - she got the part. He awarded her the post of fashion assistant under Beatrix Miller for the meagre sum of £5 a week (apparently one was expected to have a personal income to supplement this). Reflecting the new interest and enthusiasm for youth that were evident everywhere she created the "About Twenty" pages with Caterine Milinaire. This was unlike anything previously seen in Queen. Marit was so good that in 1963 when Beatrix moved to Vogue she took Marit with her.

Click here to read more!

Here are some of my favorite looks:

Who: Kerry Taylor Auctions
What: Marit Allen Collection
When: 15 Sept. , Preview Sunday 13th September 12 noon - 4.30pm; Monday 14th September 9.30am-5pm
Where: Kerry Taylor warehouse - Unit C25, (second floor) 40 Martell Road, West Dulwich, London, SE21 8EN
Contact: Telephone: 00 44 (0) 208 676 4600
Fax: 00 44 (0) 203 137 0112
Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com