Bedwin’s “Marlon” OG Melton Wool P-Coat appeared in our December 2013 coverage of the brand’s autumn/winter collection. The original report described a zipped front, a double-breasted-inspired appearance, pockets and a lightly quilted interior. These are historical product descriptions, not a verified specification or current offer.

Choose the coat around your layers

A coat should work over the clothes you actually wear. Try it over your usual shirt and knitwear, fasten it, sit down and reach forward. Check whether the collar feels comfortable and whether the sleeves allow ordinary movement. Repeat the test with a jacket underneath if that is part of your winter routine.

Compare length with your trousers and footwear. A longer silhouette may suit your preferences, but check it while seated and walking rather than judging only a mirror photograph. Ask a tailor about a specific fit problem before buying; shoulders and armholes are not automatically economical alterations.

Look beyond fabric weight

Inspect the lining, pocket openings, zip operation and seam condition. Heavy fabric is not proof of good construction or suitability for every climate. Read the composition and care labels on the actual coat: the original article does not establish how a second-hand example should be washed.

Care and second-hand checks

For woven wool, Woolmark recommends a shaped or padded hanger. Follow the coat’s own cleaning instructions. Before buying used, ask for current measurements and clear photographs of cuffs, lining and any damage, plus details of previous alterations. The 2013 retailer reference has been removed because it is not a current stock confirmation.

Make the next decision

Use our clothing quality checklist, wardrobe planning guide and alteration and repair questions to assess your own item. For budgeting, read when more expensive clothing is worth it. Return to The Lasting Wardrobe for the full guide collection.

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 27 December 2013. Revised to clarify historical product coverage, remove unsupported buying claims and add practical fit and care guidance. Original photographs retained; no first-hand product testing is claimed.

Our December 2012 report introduced a Thom Browne Oxford shirt from the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, distinguished by red and blue bands around one sleeve. The contemporary report listed a Japanese retail price; it is not a present-day valuation or buying offer. The useful question now is how a distinctive shirt fits into an everyday wardrobe.

Check fit before the design detail

Fasten the collar if you intend to wear a tie. Sit down, reach forward and check comfort through the chest and upper arms. Try the shirt tucked and untucked if you expect to use it both ways. A sleeve motif should not distract from pulling buttons, uncomfortable movement or a length that does not work with your trousers.

Ask for actual measurements when shopping online or second-hand. Brand size names are not universal: Brooks Brothers’ size guide, for example, distinguishes several cuts. It is an illustration of why fit labels matter, not a sizing chart for this Thom Browne shirt.

Test three combinations

Try familiar plain trousers, a jacket and an off-duty outfit. Decide whether you like the stripe peeking below a jacket sleeve or prefer the shirt on its own. These are styling choices, not rules: the best pattern is one you will actually wear.

Inspect a used shirt

Request close-ups of the collar, cuffs, underarms and buttons. Confirm any sleeve shortening and compare the measurements with a shirt that fits you. Read the actual care label rather than assuming all cotton shirts tolerate the same wash or ironing settings. A historical collection photograph cannot establish the condition of a garment being sold today.

Make the next decision

Use our clothing quality checklist, wardrobe planning guide and alteration and repair questions to assess your own item. For budgeting, read when more expensive clothing is worth it. Return to The Lasting Wardrobe for the full guide collection.

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 18 December 2012. Revised to clarify historical product coverage, remove unsupported buying claims and add practical fit and care guidance. Original photographs retained; no first-hand product testing is claimed.

Alden cedar shoe trees featured in our April 2012 accessory coverage. Alden’s own accessories page describes lightweight aromatic cedar shoe trees. This identifies the product category; it does not establish a guaranteed improvement in shoe lifespan.

Start with the shoes and the fit

Ask the shoe maker or a knowledgeable retailer which tree shape and size suit the pair. A tree should support the shoe without forcing it into a different shape. Do not treat an adjustable spring as permission to stretch an uncomfortable shoe. If insertion needs excessive force or changes the upper’s shape, stop and ask for advice.

What a tree cannot fix

A shoe tree is not a substitute for correct fit, suitable cleaning or a cobbler’s assessment. It cannot repair a damaged sole, guarantee that creases disappear or turn the wrong size into a comfortable pair. Our original blanket claim that the accessory extends the life of fine shoes has been removed; no controlled product test was performed for this article.

Build care around the material

Identify whether you own smooth leather, suede or another material before choosing treatments. Keep incompatible brushes and products separate, follow the shoe maker’s directions and ask about drying a wet pair. Do not assume that a wooden accessory makes direct heat or an unsuitable polish safe.

When comparing options, consider correct fit, ease of use and whether the accessory solves a real need. Prioritise a repair assessment if the shoes already have damage. The historical Need Supply link has been removed and should not be read as a current purchase recommendation.

Make the next decision

Use our clothing quality checklist, wardrobe planning guide and alteration and repair questions to assess your own item. For budgeting, read when more expensive clothing is worth it. Return to The Lasting Wardrobe for the full guide collection.

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 4 April 2012. Revised to clarify historical product coverage, remove unsupported buying claims and add practical fit and care guidance. Original photographs retained; no first-hand product testing is claimed.

Outlier’s 60/30 Chinos appeared in our March 2012 coverage. The maker’s non-shoppable product archive lists a cotton, nylon and elastane blend, a lean cut, a hidden front button and cotton-drill pocketing. Archive specifications may represent a different production version from an individual pair; check its labels and provenance.

Our earlier “one of the best” wording was not supported by comparative testing and has been removed. A technical fabric story is a starting point for questions, not evidence that one trouser is best for every wearer.

Test ordinary movement

Sit, walk and bend comfortably during a fitting. Check the waistband when seated, thigh room and how pockets behave with your usual phone or wallet. Stretch does not automatically solve an unsuitable rise or cut. Try the shoes and shirt you intend to wear, and assess length before arranging a hem.

Compare what matters to your week

For commuting, decide how much movement and weather exposure you actually face. For office use, assess the appearance under ordinary light and whether the cut matches your dress expectations. A collection’s original cycling-related positioning does not establish suitability for every ride or workplace.

When comparing two pairs, use the same checks: comfortable movement, pocket layout, fabric feel, care requirements and the complete price including alterations. The more expensive option needs a useful advantage, not simply more technical language.

Buying an older pair

Ask for current waist, rise, thigh and inseam measurements and photographs of the seat, crotch, hems and closures. Check previous alterations and visible wear. Use the actual care label; an archived specification is not permission to apply its instructions to an unidentified version. Outlier explicitly labels this archive as non-shoppable, so it should not be treated as a live offer.

Make the next decision

Use our clothing quality checklist, wardrobe planning guide and alteration and repair questions to assess your own item. For budgeting, read when more expensive clothing is worth it. Return to The Lasting Wardrobe for the full guide collection.

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 13 March 2012. Revised to clarify historical product coverage, remove unsupported buying claims and add practical fit and care guidance. Original photographs retained; no first-hand product testing is claimed.

Our November 2011 coverage described Scott & Charters lambswool crew-neck sweaters made for Unionmade Goods, with neutral and stronger colour options. That collaboration is an archive reference, not confirmation of present stock. A crew neck remains a useful layering shape when its fit, colour and care requirements suit your routine.

Fit it over the right layer

Try the sweater over the shirt or T-shirt you expect to wear. Check neckline comfort, sleeve length and room through the chest. Move your arms and sit down: a neat silhouette is less useful if it restricts ordinary movement. If you will wear it under a jacket, try the whole combination rather than buying the sweater in isolation.

Choose colour by combinations

Start with trousers and outerwear you already use. A neutral may connect several outfits; a stronger shade can be equally useful if it works with those pieces. Compare the sweater in ordinary light and avoid treating a screen image as an exact colour match.

Storage and care

Woolmark advises folding knitted wool garments, rather than storing them on hangers. For cleaning, follow the item’s own label. Do not assume that fibre content alone authorises machine washing, tumble drying or a particular detergent.

When buying second-hand, ask for photographs of the neckline, cuffs, elbows and any repairs. Check measurements and ask about shrinkage, holes and odours. A soft feel or heritage label does not prove remaining lifespan. Consider whether visible wear is acceptable to you, and obtain a repair assessment for damage rather than assuming it will disappear with cleaning.

Make the next decision

Use our clothing quality checklist, wardrobe planning guide and alteration and repair questions to assess your own item. For budgeting, read when more expensive clothing is worth it. Return to The Lasting Wardrobe for the full guide collection.

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 29 November 2011. Revised to clarify historical product coverage, remove unsupported buying claims and add practical fit and care guidance. Original photographs retained; no first-hand product testing is claimed.

Every so often, someone comes along who possesses all the great qualities we need of our American icons, and Arthur Ashe was one of those rare few. Ashe had talent, intelligence, grace and a humanitarian streak which endeared him to all. From the humblest of beginnings in Virginia, Ashe rose to become a three-time Grand Slam Champion, forever cementing him as one of the greatest of America’s tennis players.

Arthur Robert Ashe Jr was born in Richmond, Virginia on July 10th, 1943, to Mattie and Arthur Senior. Arthur Sr. was a groundskeeper by profession, and when his son was still only four years old, Arthur was employed at Brook Field, which included a number of outdoor tennis courts. It was here that Arthur first learned tennis. The young Ashe had a knack for the game, and was soon noticed by Ronald Charity, one of the nation’s top black players, and a part-time instructor. By the time he was just seven, Ronald introduced Ashe to Dr. Walton Johnson, a major amateur tennis coach in Lynchburg, Virginia. Johnson was impressed by the young Ashe, and agreed to take him as a student. His time with Johnson hammered a strong sense of sportsmanship and gentlemanly conduct into Ashe.

The time with Johnson paid off, and Ashe regularly competed in major amateur tournaments across the nation, earning acclaim as one of America’s top young players. At the same time however, Ashe was not allowed to play against white opponents, or use white courts in his home state of Virginia. Highly regarded for his skills, and a straight A student as well, Ashe met with a scout from St. Louis, and was given an offer to play at Sumner High School. Ashe accepted, and took his final year in St. Louis playing in integrated tournaments and playing much stronger opponents. Graduating first in his class, Ashe was given a full academic and athletic scholarship to the University of California, Los Angeles.

At UCLA, Ashe was a standout player, being selected as an All-American for three years, and winning the National Collegiate Athletic Association singles and doubles titles. Most remarkably, he was named to the US Davis Cup team for the first time while still a student, competing for America on the world stage. For these exploits, Ashe was featured in Sports Illustrated for the second time, as a major young student athlete. Ashe graduated with a degree in Business Administration and as a member of Kappa Alpha Psi in 1966, the first member of his father’s family to graduate from college. After UCLA, Ashe enlisted in the US Army, serving as First Lieutenant, and being given time to compete in amateur tournaments and in the Davis Cup. In 1968, Ashe won the US Amateur Champions, and also Ashe played in the inaugural united US Open tournament. Ashe won the Open, the first of his Grand Slam wins, but his status as an amateur player at a professional tournament meant his opponent retained the prize money.

Ashe returned to his post at West Point to a standing ovation from his fellow soldiers, and made the decision to leave the army and become a professional tennis player. As a professional, Ashe was ranked as America’s top men’s singles player, and a regular member of the American Davis Cup squad. In 1969, Ashe was ranked number one in America, and decided to compete for the South African Open. The apartheid policy meant that his visa request was denied by the South African government, but Ashe would continue to attempt to register to play at Johannesburg year after year, and continue to be denied. Until the fall of apartheid, Ashe would continue to call for South Africa’s expulsion from the International Lawn Tennis Association.

In 1970, in Sydney, Ashe won the Australian Open, the second of his Grand Slam wins. Tennis was becoming popular again, and Ashe was one of its foremost celebrities. He used his celebrity status to advance his interest in social causes, creating organizations such as the National Junior Tennis League, which introduced tennis to underprivileged youth, and the Association of Tennis Professionals, which would give players a voice in how the sport was run. In 1973, under increasing pressure, South Africa granted Ashe his visa, and he won the doubles title at Johannesburg that year. In 1974, Ashe was elected to serve as the ATP President, an honor given to him by his fellow players who recognized his outstanding play, his sportsmanship, and his dedication to social causes. The next year, Ashe would play the match of his life, against Jimmy Connors at the 1975 Wimbledon Men’s Singles final.

Ashe and Connors had met previously, and didn’t like each other. Connors was excluded from the 1974 French Open because of his involvement in World Team Tennis. The dispute led to legal action and heightened tensions within the sport. Never before had two more different players competed for a Slam. In 1975, Ashe was already slowing down, as he entered his thirties. Connors was a young, loud power player, who shouted and cursed on court – a sharp contrast to the quiet and composed Ashe. Connors was heavily favored by the oddsmakers, with a speedy, energetic game that was thought to be perfect for the grass courts of Wimbledon, and with the advantage of youth. Ashe prepared carefully for the final, varying the pace and using sliced backhands, well-placed serves, lobs and effective net play to disrupt Connors’s rhythm. He won in four sets, 6–1, 6–1, 5–7, 6–4.

Wimbledon was Ashe’s last Grand Slam singles title; he won it shortly before his 32nd birthday. In 1979, Ashe underwent quadruple-bypass surgery and retired soon afterwards. He stayed active in his retirement, working as a sports journalist and commentator for ABC Sports. He continued to protest against Apartheid, and was arrested outside the South African embassy in 1985. The same year, he was elected to the International Tennis Hall of Fame. In 1986, Ashe began compiling a book detailing Black American athletes. ‘A Hard Road To Glory’, one of the foremost texts in the field, was completed just two years later. Ashe’s life would change again however, in 1988, after he began to feel numbness in one of his hands. He was diagnosed with toxoplasmosis and HIV, received from a blood transfusion in 1983. Ashe kept the condition secret, and continued to work against apartheid, visiting South Africa in 1991 as apartheid legislation was being repealed and the country was moving toward integration.

In 1992, it was made known to Arthur that the media had become aware of his condition. Ashe held his own press conference announcing his condition, and using his celebrity to raise the profile of the disease, founding the Arthur Ashe Foundation for the Defeat of AIDS, and speaking to the United Nations. Ashe died of AIDS-related pneumonia on February 6th, 1993, leaving behind a wife and young daughter. Ashe was celebrated as one of the foremost athletes and humanitarians of his era. From apartheid, to inner city youth, to Haitian refugees, to his own illness, Ashe tirelessly worked to advance the cause of those less fortunate. Celebrating one of its favorite sons, the city of Richmond erected a statue of the late Ashe in 1996, on Monument Avenue, a formerly segregated memorial park. The US Open would commemorate Ashe in 1997, naming its new center stadium Arthur Ashe Stadium, ensuring that the first champion of the Open era of tennis would not be forgotten. Today, Arthur Ashe Kids Day brings children, athletes and celebrities together on the day before the US Open to encourage community involvement and education through tennis, in memory of one of America’s greatest athletes.

More than a trophy list

Ashe co-founded the National Junior Tennis League in 1969 with Charlie Pasarell and Sheridan Snyder, using tennis to broaden opportunity and develop life skills. His three-volume A Hard Road to Glory, published in 1988, also placed the history of Black athletes at the centre of his work.

Sources and related reading

• UCLA: Arthur Ashe’s life story
• International Tennis Hall of Fame profile
• ATP: 1970 tournament archive
• ATP: Jimmy Connors biography
• ATP: Ashe’s 1975 Wimbledon final
• Jackie Robinson: An American Icon

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 14 November 2009. This feature has been revised to correct historical details, add context and include source references. The original photographs have been retained.

American icons often come from unassuming backgrounds, and Jackie Robinson was no different. Born in 1919 to a family of Georgia sharecroppers, Jack Roosevelt Robinson was the youngest of a five children. After his father left the family in 1920, the Robinson family moved to Pasadena, California to live with relatives. The Robinsons were the only black family in the neighborhood. Robinson would grow close to his brothers as he grew up, and they all excelled in athletics. Mack Robinson was a silver medalist at the 1936 Olympics, and an accomplished baseball player, along with his brother Frank. Both saw talent in the younger Jackie and encouraged him to take up baseball. At the predominately white John Muir High School, Jackie lettered in football, baseball, track and basketball, and was a junior tennis champion. Robinson went on to attend Pasadena City College, but before graduation, his brother, Frank, was killed in a motorcycle accident. Jackie was especially close to Frank, and he would care for Frank’s family for the rest of his life.

After Pasadena, Jackie enrolled at the University of California at Los Angeles. For the UCLA Bruins, Jackie continued his athletic streak, becoming among the school’s first black football players. He needed money though, and Robinson had leave before graduating, taking a job with the government’s National Youth Administration, and then playing for Honolulu’s semi-professional racially integrated football team. After the season was over, Jackie was on his way back to California when he was drafted into the US Army. Pearl Harbour had been attacked, and America was now involved in World War II. Robinson was accepted into officer training, but he and many other black soldiers had their applications ‘delayed’. Jackie eventually graduated from Officer Candidate School as a Junior Lieutenant, but was court-martialed after refusing to move to the back of an Army bus. At the time, Army bus lines were racially integrated, and Robinson’s commander refused to have Jackie charged. Robinson was acquitted of the charges.

The court-martial meant that Robinson was detained when his unit was deployed to Europe, and he never saw action. However, while serving in Kentucky after his acquittal, an ex-player from baseball’s Negro Leagues said that Jackie ought to consider trying out for a professional baseball team. After his discharge, Jackie accepted a job as athletics director at Sam Huston College in Texas, and wrote to the owner of the Negro American League’s Kansas City Monarchs about trying out for the team. Monarchs owner Thomas Baird replied by sending the 26-year old Robinson an offer to be the Monarchs’s new shortstop. Jackie only played for the Monarchs for one year, but was an All-Star and League MVP for that year. By this time, many major league baseball teams were already scouting the Negro Leagues for talent.

Boston Red Sox officials were pressured by local politicians to hold tryouts for black players, and in 1945, Robinson and some other black players were asked to come to Boston for a tryout. The tryout was a sham, and Red Sox management poured verbal abuse on the black players. Jackie left Fenway Park furious. Boston’s loss would be Brooklyn’s gain however, as the Dodgers had missed the playoffs for five consecutive seasons, and were serious about signing a top black player. Dodger owner Branch Rickey interviewed several of the Negro League’s top players, and spoke with Jackie for over three hours. Branch wanted to know what Jackie would do if he was confronted with racism. Jackie asked Branch, “Are you looking for a Negro who is afraid to fight back?” “I’m looking for a Negro with guts enough not to fight back.”

Rickey signed Robinson to a secret developmental contract, and sent him to the Dodger’s developmental team, the Montreal Royals of the International League. During the offseason, Robinson married his sweetheart from UCLA, and prepared for spring training with the Royals in Florida. In Florida, hotels refused to lodge him, and previously-friendly stadiums were closed to the Royals. Despite these troubles, when they returned to Montreal, Robinson led the league in batting and fielding, and was voted MVP of the International League. With Robinson, the Montreal Royals broke league records for attendance, and the fans in Montreal embraced their new star player. After winning the International League Championship, Robinson was mobbed by a crowd of cheering Montrealers. The next year, the Brooklyn Dodgers called Jackie Robinson up to the major league.

On April 15th, 1947, the Brooklyn Dodgers started with Jackie Robinson in the lineup, breaking the colour barrier in the twentieth-century American and National Leagues. Over twenty-five-thousand fans flocked to Ebbets Field in Brooklyn to watch Robinson play that day. Dodger players were skeptical at first, but Dodgers Manager Leo Durocher took the locker room head on “I do not care if the guy is yellow or black, or if he has stripes like a fuckin’ zebra. I’m the manager of this team, and I say he plays. What’s more, I say he can make us all rich. And if any of you cannot use the money, I will see that you are all traded”. The entire team quickly fell into line, and supported Jackie in the face of the racism of opposing teams and fans.

Despite the hate he encountered, Robinson had an exceptional season, and was declared the League’s Rookie of the Year. He was considered the most exciting player the Dodgers had, and most popular athlete in the country. His footspeed was incredible, and he possessed a quick mind and sharp eye that allowed him to lead the league with 29 stolen bases. He embarked on a speaking career during the offseason while rival teams rushed to sign their own black players, trying to copy the Dodgers’ success. After an erratic 1948 season, the Dodgers asked retired Hall of Famer George Sisler to improve Jackie’s batting. Sisler’s work with Robinson greatly improved his hitting, and in 1949, Jackie was the first black MVP, and the first black player voted into Major League Baseball’s All-Star Game.

In ten seasons in Major League Baseball, Jackie Robinson was a six-time All-Star, and with him at bat, the Dodgers were a consistent contender for the World Series, playing in six of them. In 1955, the Dodgers beat the New York Yankees and Robinson won his only World Series. However, Robinson was starting to get weak at the plate, and his game was slowing down. Dodger management was also beginning to have disagreements with their top player. Branch Rickey, who Robinson looked up to, had been let go and the new ownership was arranging a blockbuster trade to the New York Giants for the 1957 season. The Dodgers traded Robinson to the New York Giants in December 1956. Robinson subsequently announced his retirement from baseball.

In 1962, Robinson was eligible for admission to the Baseball Hall of Fame. Jackie asked voters to consider only his talent, and not his role in breaking the color barrier. He was voted in by over 75% of the ballot. Baseball writers have acclaimed him as one of the best fielders of all time, leading the league in fielding in 1950 and 1951. Jackie was a dangerous base runner throughout his career, and many critics regard Jackie as the founder of modern base-stealing. Throughout his career, Robinson was also a consistent scoring threat. The Dodgers (now based in Los Angeles) retired his number in 1972, and Jackie threw the ceremonial first pitch of Game 2 of that year’s World Series. Twelve days later, on October 24th, 1972, Jackie Robinson suffered a fatal heart attack. Robinson was buried in Brooklyn, and in 1997, Jackie’s number 42 was retired across the league. Robinson’s role in breaking down color barriers throughout America and for lasting contributions to the game of baseball, make Jackie Robinson a true American icon.

A legacy beyond baseball

Robinson’s work extended into civil-rights advocacy and business after his playing career. Rachel Robinson established the Jackie Robinson Foundation in 1973 following his death. Its scholarship and leadership-development work continues that legacy of opportunity.

Sources and related reading

• National Baseball Hall of Fame: Jackie Robinson
• Hall of Fame: Robinson’s trade and retirement
• Jackie Robinson Foundation biography
• About the Jackie Robinson Foundation
• Arthur Ashe: An American Icon

Updated 11 October 2026. Originally published 31 October 2009. This feature has been revised to correct historical details, add context and include source references. The original photographs have been retained.

Spring/Summer 2014 sees A.P.C. continue to add to its collection of innovative takes on the classic Parka, translating the traditional military design into a more sartorially sophisticated arena. Cut from a cotton blend twill, it features a variety of design details taken from authentic designs bringing them forward into a refined, considered design. Featuring a high stance collar, adjustable hood and new take on the classic four pocket set up, it has a hidden placket and is finished with adjustable cuffs. Available now at End.

Baracuta gives us a look at the Fall/Winter 2014 collection in this video titled, “The Journey”. Designed by Jeff Griffin, the brand stays close to their British heritage.

A true shoemakers-shoe, from one of Britain’s most distinguished boot-makers, the Grenson Fred Triple Welt is taken from the END. exclusive ‘Triple Welt’ pack. Designed to highlight a treasured piece of British craftsmanship, this new take on the Fred brogue is constructed with a stepped triple-welted sole and is made entirely, ‘from skin to box’, in the Northamptonshire factory. Constructed with high shine leather uppers that retain the Fred’s over-sized brogue detailing, this is a phenomenal reworking of a true style icon.