Edwin is one of the most famous denim brands around the world. It has been instrumental in contributing to the development of denim in terms of washes, styling and fabric usage due to its own innovative orientation. Edwin is widely regarded as the originator of ‘Old Wash’ techniques which have become common place in the denim marke

Lets have a look at some of the common washes that Edwin does on its various styles of denim jeans.

Biker Wash

A heavily used wash, given a black / dirty finish.

Blitzer Wash

A subtle wash that gives the feeling of freshly broken in denim . Featuring 3 D whiskers , resin and some light damage. Available in 13.5oz.

Burner Wash

This is another subtle wash, based on the real wear patterns  of a pair of jeans worn for 3 months with one wash. Available in 14 oz.

Drifter Wash

Drifter is a complex wash to execute 3D whiskers, application of resin, Knee deformation, scraping and more.  Mainly in 13.5 to 14oz.

Dry Wash

This wash refers to a pair of ‘ freshly worn in jeans’ featuring subtle abrasions on the pocket entry and bottom edge , knee deformations and 3D whiskers . This wash uses less water in washing. Available mainly in 11 to 11.25 oz.

Fader Wash

Based on the jeans from the 70s, this extremely light wash features a knee deformation, scraping on the front, and back pockets, and a marble effect . Available mainly in 10.3 oz.

Heavy Dark Used Wash

Based on a workpant , this heavy wash features handbrushing and scraping on front pockets and beltloops. Applied mainly on weights of about 12oz.

O- Wash

This wash is made using minimum water consumption followed by the application of resin and mechanical resin .Finished in Italy and usually on 13oz  black denim.

Heavy O- Wash

A similar process as O- Wash but this time in  a more extreme way. Resin and heavy mechanical brushing is applied using the minimum water consumption possible . Finished in ITaly and mainly fabrics of 11.25 oz are used. Note the acute distortion of knees.

Lumber Light Wash

A used wash on a light stone base with subtle wear patterns and light scraping.  Dark blue denim in 12oz  is used.

Oiler Wash

Natural looking wash offering a vintage feel. Based on oil field worker pants from the mid 70s with natural wear patterns with subtle abrasion. Available in 11.25oz .

Rusty Wash

Rusty wash is based on  a real work pattern , a heavy used / worn out wash with 3 D whiskers on front and back pockets , a double stone wash , tram lines and rusty effect fixed with spray . Uses 14.5oz denim and hand finished in Italy.

Tar Wash

Available in quartz blue denim , taking the colour back to a subtle grey/ blue with a mid used feel as though they have been used for about 2 years. Uses 11.25oz denim.

We are listing herewith some of the importers of denim jeans into India in early 2012. Sri Lanka, China, Hong Kong, Turkey , Germany UK and other places seem to be providing the jeans coming to India.  The costliest jeans come from Germany.

1. Names of some companies who imported denim jeans into India in early 2012
2. Their contact details
3. The countries from where they imported these products.
4. The descriptions of the products imported.
5. The prices at which the same were imported.

   Note: This is one of our subscriber reports . See the details on more than 20 other titles

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Denim fit has always been one of the major concerns both for shoppers and retailers .
Shoppers , esp women  , are exasperated trying umpteen number of jeans to find their right fit – spending hours in the changing room . Retailers , on the other hand, would be very happy to have more jeans sold per unit time – but that is possible only if the customers can find their right fit easily and quickly within a myriad of jeans brands, styles, fits , cuts and all…And if the customers are coming to a mall and want to know which of the denim shops could provide them the right fit , it would be a great value addition for the customers and retailers both..

To this end , Malls in Southland, California , have installed the Me-Ality digital sizing machines that scan shoppers and dispense shopping tips based on the person’s shape and size as LA times reports .
Called Me-Ality Size Matching Stations, the machines are about the size of two telephone booths. To get measured, a shopper steps inside and stands still with hands on her sides. Once the machine is activated, a white column inside (called a measuring "wand") circles the person for about 60 seconds while taking thousands of measurements of her body.

The customer is then given recommendations for different styles, brands, sizes etc that are suited for his/her body. These are from the brands that are available in that particular mall.  These machines are found to be useful by many customers – though some find their recommendations coming on the higher side.

But , it is technology at the forefront to solve a major problem in denim purchasing. Taking it further , if these machines could be developed further and connected to a  citywide database , the shopper could easily know what would be the best place to go to buy jeans in the whole city . And of course, over a period of time, this could develop into a national database and the shoppers could find denim anywhere online. But the software of these machines would have to be further developed so that the margin of error could be reduced to the minimum .

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Orta Anadolu (Turkey) shall be displaying the Autumn – Winter ‘13/14 collection at the Denim by PV this week.  As always, Orta comes with some unique fabrics and collection  and we are presenting here some of the highlights of the same.  The collection comes under four headers – Vintage Nature, Glitter, Slow Fit and Homeward.

Vintage Nature

Immortal spirit of vintage continues to inspire the Autumn Winter ‘13/14 collection of Orta . But this time its in more heavy constructions revived with classical shades.

Vintage nature will appeal to denim purists who are looking for the Raw feel with heavy denim weight champions in 13-15oz . The Alchemy finish on the fabrics makes the colors richer and handfeel softer.  The colors range from Toffie, Caremal , Rosehip, Burlywood and Army green.

Sharkskin

Sharkskin suits were a staple of the 1960s fashion. These suits had a certain shine which made them more appealing to the vintage suit lovers.  
Orta sharkskin concept is driven from the idea of that fashion look which is achieved by fabric coating with different hues and hand feel basically on womens and mens stretch constructions. The concept comes in two flavours :

• Angelshark : in bold and smooth with a thin layer of coating in green, bordeaux , grey , brown , navy and other colors.
• Reefshark : where the strong look of denim is visible.

The Orta sharkskins provide a beautfiul sheen with hot press !

Glitter

Motown fashion can be best symbolized by women eveningwear with full length maxi dresses, evening trousers or glamorous halter neck catsuits which oozed Motown glamour.

Orta glitter revives this glamour with a permanent coating technique that keeps sparkle shiny on lightweight denim and flat stretches even after homewash.

Glitter : The Temptations
Temptation as a coating has  silver palette to give a glittery effect on the surface . The glitter is durable to rinse wash.

Glitter : The Supremes

Supremes is colored shiny coating technique with a palette of gold, blue , black  and ice.  It is also durable to rinse wash.

Slow Fit

Body concious silhouettes have become a major key trend in the market and there is always need for improving quality . Consumers are interested in purchasing jeans that offer a lasting fit which holds the shape after repeated wear and washes.

Continued from last season, Orta takes these fabrics to a higher level with the Dual core technology  and choice of fabrics specially in sateen and new flat constructions. Weights range from 7 to 11 oz and unique treatments like I-core , Slow fit collection once again offers a great versatility with different blends of PES/ Viscose , Tencel, T-400 and fine combed yarns.

Homeward

As a company that incorporates emerging trends and fashion in its denim production, Orta collaborates with artists , designers, vintage dealers and trendsetters in order to share its ever expanding know how.
Capsule packages are the outcomes of this vision. ‘ Homeward’ is the prequel to ‘Journey’ collection of last year and focuses on the 1950s Navy, shore leaves, tattoos , workwear themes and more.  This collection has been created in collaboration with the Vintage showroom , London.

For more information on Orta’s  A/w  2014/15 collection, contact them at this email address

Denim by PV – the famed denim show – shall be held again on 23rd-24th May at La Halle Freyssinet and the denim players shall display their Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 collections. We are giving herebelow the list of exhibitors (about 84) who shall be participating in this show . Also here is a note on some of the companies and the new products that they shall be showcasing:

Orta Anadolu , Turkey

Orta shall be displaying their new concepts for A/W   2013/14 which include :

• Sharkskins : Sharkskin suits were a staple of 1960s fashion. With two flavours of ‘Angelshark’ and ‘Reefshark’ with a differing variety of coating intensity , these fabrics provide a great sheen on hot press.
• Glitter: Shining sparkles on lightweight fabrics keep on shining after homewash and Orta glitter revives the Motown fashion with this innovation.
• Vintage nature fabrics in heavy constructions and colors like Toffie, Caramel, Rosehip, Burlywood, Army green form part of the immortal spirit of Orta Vintage.  
• Slowfits- superior performing fabrics in stretch constructions.This season, thanks to Dual Core Technology, Orta takes these efforts to a higher level with a wider choice of fabrics especially in new flat  and sateen constructions.
  Orta Anadolu 

Invista

INVISTA innovations will be  classified in 3 themes.

• ETHNIC – Here, LYCRA® dualFX™ fabrics provide outstanding recovery for super stretch garments, allowing even the skinniest jeans and jeggings to keep their shape.
• ECOLOGY – INVISTA worked with expert-finishers Jeanologia to create garments combining INVISTA fibres with Jeanologia’s innovative finishing techniques.
• EMERGING – features fabrics made from emerging technologies and/or emerging parts of the world, such as India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. .

ITV

ITV shall present :

• A new 3D collection
• Super soft fabrics
• Color denims

Kuroki, Japan

The manufacturer of  denim from Japan will be introducing softer jeans fabrics and denims with specially elaborated stretch.
The accent is on the silhouette for the women’s market, with a denim that clings to the body, and a fluid denim.

Here is a list of exhibitors with a link to their sites. Also their contact emails are given.

Denim Weavers

Accessory Manufacturers

Garmenters and Finishers

We are listing herewith some of the importers of denim fabrics into India in early 2012. Turkey, Italy, China and Pakistan seem to be the major supplier of fabrics into India .  Poly Stretch denim seems to be highly priced product being shipped to India.

1. Names of some companies who imported denim fabrics and jeans into India in early 2012
2. Their contact details
3. The countries from where they imported these products.
4. The descriptions of the products imported.
5. The prices at which the same were imported.

   Note: Checkout our other subscriber reports

[Content protected for our paid subscribers.Contact us for more info. To see all protected reports titles,visit this page http://www.denimsandjeans.com/category/subscriber-reports/ ]

We are happy and proud to announce the public launch of  new data sections related to denim industry. These sections provide various kinds of information and data related to denim industry worldwide.
To explain better, we have first created a video below from these sections which you can see here and then I can explain what these sections are about ..

Denim Buyers in USA and Shippers Worldwide

This section gives micro information on the shipments made related to denim products from around the world to US . Thus it would be possible to find out which companies in US are buying what denim products from which factories and suppliers around the world  . The contacts of buyers and suppliers both would be visible so that the members can benefit from their availability. 
Since the data is searchable, it would be possible to see , eg , which are the important suppliers from ‘Vietnam’ to US or to find the companies in US and around which are buying denim products from China.. 
We have created the databases since the period starting 2008 mid.

Macro Data on Imports into US and EU

• Want to find out how much were exports of Jeans from Bangladesh to EU in 2005
• or from China to US in 2011 .
• Check this section to know which countries are becoming important suppliers of denim products to these regions. Also find their average export prices and volumes etc.

The data shows shipments made from 2000 to the latest available period and is helpful in sourcing and management decisions.

India Denim Fabric Exports

Our third section deals with checking out the prices and volumes of shipments made by Indian denim mills to countries around the world .. Thus it would be possible to have an idea of fabric prices and trends for shipments made from India . Also, it would be interesting to find the countries where more Indian fabric is being shipped. But , no mills or buyer names would be available in these reports and these would be more of macro reports of statistical nature.

Besides the above three, we also have a denim buyer section where buyers of jeans and denim products from some countries are listed.

The above sections are constantly updated enabling our subscribers to get new info on a regular basis. To get more info on these sections including pricing etc, contact us here

G-Star , as always , comes out with some great denim products . G- Star Raw  collection has the following differentiating characters this Winter….

• Key Style – this season key denim style is the Radar, due to its lowered pockets,this denim has a low slung look while actually not being worn low.
• Washings – DeepTones™, G-Star’s new and unique molecular treatment causes  denim to hardly fade when washed; making sure that dark denim stays dark for those denim freaks who love dark denim…
• RAW Essentials – the top range of G-Star’s denim line, with tailored hand finishing and innovative washes applied to the finest European and Japanese selvedge denims.
• RAW Correct Line – mixes formal wear tailoring with street wear details to create a dynamic, elegant and modern wardrobe.
• Laundry Army – offers clothing that is comfortable and functional with military inspired details to give you a look that is cool and confident.

We are presenting the collection here in two presentations  one each on Men’s and Women’s . This collection can be viewed online here :

Here are also some pictures from the collection.

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As mentioned before , we are starting the denim production education series of articles. The content for these articles on various stages of denim production has been kindly provided by Denim Academy of Orta Anadolu – the premium denim mill from Turkey.  The first article concentrates on the Yarn production process upto the formation of Rope – ready for dyeing.

Preparation

Yarn spinning starts with the transfer of the cotton bales from warehouse chosen by a special software to the blowing room feeder as a initial step of yarn spinning process. From this point onwards, cotton undergoes preparation processes like cleaning, opening and blending with the content of other bales. During this process, the fibers which are too short are extracted.

Carding

The cotton fibers are then subjected to a carding operation that ensures that the fibers are parallel to each other. At the same time a vigorous and detailed cleaning of material to be used in yarn production is carried out in order to be ready for the next phase of manufacturing. As a result of the cotton fibers are transformed from the compressed , randomly mixed material containing impurities to SLIVER which have been neatly stacked in cans ready for the next processes. The main processes in carding machines are;

• Opening of the fiber bundles to separate
• Removal of extraneous and dust
• Elimination of short fibers
• Removal of neps
• Obtaining fiber evenness
• Blending properly
• Producing sliver from cotton fibers

Drawing: Draw Frames

In draw-frames, slivers from different carding machines are brought together to form a homogenous blend and parallelism of the fibers is further enhanced. The fiber hook-ends that are a part of the fiber nature are flattened and fibers are further elongated.

Roving Frames

In order to monitor the weight per unit length of the Sliver under control highly developed electronic regulation systems are utlilized. The Sliver  from the drawing frame operation with uniform mass per unit length are further drawn out by the roving frame operation . They are then wound on to tubes which can be used on the yarn machines. Roving is the final step before yarn is produced.   In the roving frame process, A particular amount of draft force is applied on sliver where the yarn does not only get thinner, but also twisted to keep its strength, as the fiber quantity in cross-section area decreases.

Spinning – Ring Frames

After this operation ,the Rovings are subjected to a further  drawing out operation on the ring machines and are further thinned out to the required yarn thickness. During this operation the yarn gravity is subjected to a twist in order to give it the required durability. The ring machine determines the surface  structure  and the  physical attributes of the yarn being produced. Due to the yarn production system that can also produce effects, the yarns can be given the effects that will determine effect the visual appearance of the fabric. It is worth noting that all the yarn production machines at Orta have the ability to create effects in the yarns. The Spinning frame sets the yarn count by adjusting the draft, gives required amount of twist and winds it on to the cops (small tubes).  The yarn produced through Ring Frame is more soft and has more strength and character as compared to those produced by the Open End machines.

Winding

The last phase of the yarn production is the Winding Process. Here the cops produced by the ring machines are spliced (joined) together and transformed into the bobbin format of specific length . The Splicing process is very important from the point of view of productivity of the subsequent phases where bobbins will be used and final appearance of the fabric. During the winding process , the yarns are monitored for every mm of the way by high technology sensors on the bobbin machines and the faulty areas that may affect the texture of the fabric are eliminated. Any yarn defects (unevenness, yarn count, thin&thick places etc.) are detected and removed during winding.   Yarn spinning is completed by winding process.

Ball Warping

Ball Warping –from the point of view of color quality and authentic appearance is the preliminary preparation for the Rope Dyeing System- which is the preferred system of denim production. The yarns that will be used in the warping of the fabric are stacked in the ball warping machines Creel section and all brought to the front of the machine to be transformed  into Rope . The Rope thus produced and Cones are warped as ropes at ball warping and prepared for Indigo rope dyeing process.

Check out the entire spinning process from video below provided by the  Denim Academy .

Contact the Denim Academy

Denmark , with a population of only about      is a small country  compared to many other countries in EU with a population of only about 5.5 million . The Danish apparel retail is valued at over $6.5 billion and is sizeable for the country of such a small population.   The country has a decent consumption of denim garments due to popularity of denims and it is estimated that the per capita consumption is about 4 jeans per person p.a with over 20 million pieces of jeans sold in Denmark.

So where do the jeans come to Denmark from ?

The jeans most come to Denmark in big quantities from

• China
• Turkey
• Bangladesh

and small quantities from Pakistan , India etc. China enjoyed a market share of about 50% in the total jeans imported into Denmark in 2010. However , within a year , it lost about 4-5% points and the share is being taken up countries like Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and India. This reflects the growing

Lets have a look at the quantities and prices at which the jeans are coming to Denmark  from some of the important exporting  countries in 2010 and 2011 …

Looking at the table above , it is clear that China is losing market share rapidly due to rising costs. Also, its surprising to see that Turkey is gaining share – reflecting that speedy turnaround and very high quality garments are required for this market and the prices touching Euro 16+ are not less either. 
Bangladesh and India are quickly gaining share of the market though the prices that India gets are far above those of Bangladesh.

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