Situated in Thailand’s western Kanchanaburi and Tak provinces, along the border with Myanmar and located at the southern tip of the Dawna Range, this pristine Asian rain forest is a colossal 320,000 hectares in size.

Declared a wildlife preserve in the early 1970s, Thung Yai meaning ‘big field’, is one of only a few remaining unspoiled tracts of forest cover still left in the world today, being officially recognized by UNESCO in 1991. The two adjoining sanctuaries form a huge area of the Western Forest Complex, a phenomenal swathe of virgin forest that also includes the surrounding national parks of Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary to the north, Mae Wong National Park, Srinakarindra National Park, Chaloem Rattankosin National Park, Erawan National Park, Sai Yok National Park, and Salak Phra Wildlife Sanctuary.

The spectacular terrain is marked with many outstanding natural features, which are home to a stunning variety of flora and fauna. As with any self-contained ecosystem, water is a vital source of life with this hilly region spawning four major rivers, gushing waterfalls, pretty fresh streams like Huai Kha Khaeng, and rocky ravines. Steaming hot springs are a unique resource that visitors find fascinating to discover, with Pong Nai Sor Spring, which was named after an unfortunate hunter that was killed by a rhino, the best known.

This continual flow of unpolluted water gives life to schools of fish, as well as forming small lakes, ponds and swamp areas that have become important habitats for an abundance of colourful wildlife. Three different species of otter frolic openly in such waterways, as well as rare herds of larger cattle including gaur, banteng, and the only wild water buffalo in the whole of Thailand.

A verdant undulating landscape with valleys, wetlands, open prairies, and mountain peaks that rise above 1,500 m., Thung Yai thrives with a diversity of trees and shrubs. From dense evergreen to bamboo forests, the sanctuary is endowed with a staggering 1,000 vertebrate species, including 153 mammal species, 490 bird species, 41 reptiles and over 100 species of fish. Many of these timid protected creatures are rarely spotted outside the sanctuary environment, but on a good day you might be lucky to see tapping woodpeckers, hornbills, and red-headed vultures flying in the skies above. Meanwhile on the ground is the hope of an encounter with a rare Sumatran or Javan rhinoceros, herds of lumbering wild elephants, as well as several endangered carnivores, such as tigers, bears, and clouded leopards.

Aside from close ups of the animal kingdom, Thung Yai contains several remote sites of great archaeological interest, which reputedly dates back thousands of years to early humans. While stone artifacts have been unearthed, there has been little research conducted to date, making the area ripe for an Indiana Jones style archaeological adventure. For present day human contact, the sanctuary is home to hill tribe villages of ethnic Karen. Wearing white and red costumes, the Karen have settled in this region for at least two centuries, with their traditional lifestyle helping maintain the delicate ecosystem of the forest sanctuary.

An adventurous journey to Thung Yai Naresuan offers visitors the privilege of being able to visit one of the few remaining virgin forest canopies remaining in the world. The sanctuary is only open to small groups, and it’s advised to obtain a visitor’s permit from the Wildlife Conservation Division of the Royal Forest Department in Bangkok, or from the chief of the sanctuary.

Feel like an intrepid explorer as you trek through vegetation that few, if any, humans have ever set foot upon. If really fortunate, you might be the first person on the planet to discover a new species living in the sanctuary, in which case you get to choose the name for this never seen organism. Thailand maybe a popular international tourist hotspot, but it is still incredibly easy to find yourself in remote locations, where the only other voices you hear are the calls of birds overhead and the jungle chorus that surrounds.

Getting There

By Bus
Buses depart daily from Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaent Phet II Road to Uthai Thani. From Uthai Thani, you must arrange a 4WD to the parks.

By Car
From Bangkok, take Highway No.2 through Ayutthaya, Ang Thong, Sing Buri, and Chai Nat, then turn left at Km. 26, across the bridge spanning the Chao Phraya and left on to Highway No.33 to Uthai Thani, a total distance of about 222 km.

Ban Chiang is most famous for the stunning pottery the ancient settlers elaborately crafted, particularly the distinct burnt-ochre pots and vases with their swirling geometric designs painted on. Using the latest technology for accurate chronological dating, some of the ceramics found are said to be 6-7000 years old. Other precious relics uncovered include bronze bracelets, bangles, anklets, metal spearheads, and axe-heads. Discoveries of such early metallurgy indicate that bronze technology could have certainly been passed from Thailand to China, and not vice versa as originally believed.

Set amidst the lush rural paddy fields on a large plateau in Thailand’s north-eastern province of Udon Thani, is the small countryside village of Ban Chiang. This once sleepy backwater grabbed the attention of archaeologists the world over, when in 1966, an American anthropology student accidentally tripped on the ground only to find the rim of a partially buried clay pot. Awestruck by the creative designs and striking earth-red colour, he became more excited noticing curious shards of pottery scattered in the fields all around him. The momentous discovery would later lead to an international team of archaeologists to unearth evidence of a lost civilisation dating back some 5,000 years.

Not far from the border of Lao P.D.R., at the picturesque confluence of three small tributary streams in Udon Thani, Ban Chiang has become one of the most interesting and important archaeological discoveries in Southeast Asia of the 20th century. The land that time forgot, much of what has been uncovered in the three decades of excavation has led world historians and anthropologists to drastically revise their previous notions of human development in this part of Asia. One of the most significant revelations is that northeast Thailand was one of the earliest centres of bronze and iron production in the world.

With mysterious artefacts dating from around 3600 BC to 200 AD, Ban Chiang testifies to a different Bronze Age in Asia, more sophisticated and advanced than originally thought by scholars. So far researchers have meticulously dug up literally thousands upon thousands of rare artefacts that trace back various periods of settlement, providing proof to the evolution of small self-contained agrocommunities that possessed sophisticated tools and customs for the time.

Evidence of Ban Chiang’s prehistoric communities shows that these were peaceful agrarian folk, who survived by farming the land and hunting wild animals. With excavations still continuing to unearth important finds, some of the discoveries are still a mystery to archaeologists.

Today, Ban Chiang’s laid-back hamlet is a bewitching escape from more established tourist centres, and along with Udon Thani, makes for a wonderful locale to spend a lazy couple of days. Wander Ban Chiang village and make friends with the welcoming local villagers, who are skilled artisans in their own right. Family-run creative cottage industries produce replica earthenware here and in the neighbouring village of Ban Pulu, as well as other traditional crafts like beautiful handwoven fabrics.

Nestled on the village edge, wile away several hours surveying the extensive Ban Chiang National Museum (open daily 9am-4pm), displaying an excellent collection of earthenware ceramics, bronze jewellery and tools, stone objects, shells, as well as glass beads. The informative museum also has displays on excavation techniques, aerial photographs of the village, as well as detailed explanations of the site’s history. From the museum, a pleasant stroll along dusty village lanes lined with quaint wooden shophouses, brings you to the peaceful grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai. This rustic temple contains ancient burial sites that were some of the first plots to be uncovered back in 1972 and are preserved under specially built shelters. Inside these eerie graves are skeletal remains, along with ceramics, weapons, tools, jewellery, and animal skulls.

This remarkable on-site museum reveals facts about people’s death rituals, the average life expectancy, and causes of death at the time. Come to this quiet northeastern hideaway to help participate in rediscovering a fundamental period of Thai and Asian history, and examine the remnants of what is possibly one of the world’s oldest settlements.

Getting There

By Air
Thai Airways operates daily flights between Bangkok and Udon Thani. Tel. 0 2280 0060, Hotline: 1566 Website: www.thaiairways.com Air Asia also has flights from Bangkok to Udon Thani. Tel. 0 2515 9999 Website: www.airasia.com

By Rail
Trains regularly depart from Bangkok Hua Lamphong Railway Station to Udon Thani. Tel. 0 2220 4334, Hotline: 1690 Website: www.railway.co.th. From Udon Thani town, take a sawngthaew (van with bench seats) to Ban Chiang.

By Bus
Bangkok-Udon Thani buses leave regularly from the Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road with the journey taking around 10 hours. Tel. 0 2936 2852-66 Website: www.transport.co.th

By Car
From Bangkok, take Highway No.1 to Saraburi and onto Highway to Udon Thani via Nakhon Ratchasima and Khon Kaen, a total distance of 564 km.

Even today, exploring the majestic and formidable ruins of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, it is easy to appreciate the vision of the monarchs who built it. Monumental remnants of temple chedi, soaring amber-sash Buddha statues, and scattered red brick temples, are spread across a tranquil, pretty garden landscape. Located 85 km. (55 miles) north of Bangkok in the lush Central Plains, Ayutthaya was mapped out at the picturesque junction of three rivers: Chao Phraya, Pa Sak, and Lopburi. Resourceful engineers had to ingeniously cut a man-made canal across the loop of the Chao Phraya to create a strongly defensive artificial island. Canals were also constructed as busy watery avenues, with ornate palaces and sacred temples standing stately along the riverbanks.

At its pinnacle during the 17th century, the glittering medieval kingdom was one of the largest municipalities in the world, eclipsing cities like London. Supplanting and incorporating the ageing Sukhothai into its stretching umbrella of power, the Ayutthaya Empire reached as far west as Pegu in Myanmar, and eastward to Angkor in Cambodia. The commercial and diplomatic might of the wealthy kingdom lured foreign merchants from across Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. Welcomed by the local populace, many of these international traders settled into small communities within Ayutthaya, contributing to the kingdom’s cosmopolitan aura.

The magnificent canal-lined island city with some 2,000 golden spires affectionately became known as ‘Venice of the East’. Today, chartering a long-tail boat for a trip around the canal moat is the most enjoyable way to absorb many of the momentous riverbank ruins. Fittingly declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, this centre of Asian civilisation is a must see for any traveller to Thailand. Boat operators from Bangkok organize atmospheric cruises up river from the modern capital to the illustrious city, including modern express boats and luxuriously renovated traditional rice barges.

The City Isle

Named after the mythical kingdom of Ayodhya (meaning undefeated in Sanskrit) from the epic fable the Ramayana (Ramakien in Thai), Ayutthaya was officially established in 1350 by King Ramathibodi I (U-Thong). The strategic city was in close proximity to the Gulf of Thailand, enabling the profitable flow of international sea trade. The riverine fortress flourished and soon surpassed Sukhothai as the principal Siamese kingdom, gradually becoming the economic, cultural, and artistic heart of the region. Successive kings added to and embellished the resplendent palaces and 400 temples, giving the island unrivalled spiritual and leadership focus.

During this flourishing era, Ayutthaya saw great legal, administrative, and military progress. Architects and city planners excelled in mapping out a grand city, while master craftsmen adeptly worked gold, stone, and wood, to dress the city in unparalleled treasures. One of the most dazzling sights that foreigners witnessed as they sailed into Ayutthaya, were the fantastically ornate wood-carved royal barges that carried the king and his family around the city. Militarily, Ayutthaya led a powerful army of elephant riding warriors, often fighting battles against the neighbouring adversaries of Myanmar and Cambodia. King Naresuan the Great (1555-1605) was heralded as one of Ayutthaya’s greatest and bravest rulers, liberating the kingdom from Burmese occupation in 1585. In one legendary battle, King Naresuan defeated a Burmese crown prince in a fierce sword duel atop wrestling war elephants.

After 400 hundred years in the spotlight, during the 18th century Ayutthaya began to decline. The tragic culmination came in 1767, when the Burmese invading army laid siege before conquering and razing the once proud city to the ground. When King Taksin finally liberated the kingdom, a new ruling dynasty was established and the capital moved south to Thonburi and then eventually to Bangkok. Sadly many of Ayutthaya’s irreplaceable treasures were destroyed or stolen, but the artistic and architectural masterpieces that did survive are today on view for the world to experience and remember how this once great city unified the Thai people into an honourable nation. Ayutthaya’s legacy can also be seen in the early Bangkok, or Rattanakosin style, of architecture and art that today enriches the Grand Palace and regal surrounds of Rattanakosin Island.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Yai Chaimongkon, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Principal Sights

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Park

Ayutthaya’s temples are dotted throughout this once glorious city, along the encircling rivers, and in the surrounding countryside. At least one full day is needed to fully appreciate the magnitude of the historical park, with plenty of relaxing provincial accommodation available for those who wish to spend a night or more in the modern version of Ayutthaya town. One of the best ways to explore the restored complex of ruins is by pedal power, renting a bicycle is a peaceful and enjoyable mode of getting up close to the monuments. For a more unique journey of discovery, chartering a long-tail boat allows you to absorb the attractions from a riverine perspective. And for a truly Thai tour of the city, hop up on the back of an elephant, and gently ride through time atop these wise beasts.

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre

Funded by the Japanese government on land that was once a part of historic Ayutthaya’s Japanese residential quarter, the creatively designed modern building houses fantastic hi-tech exhibits that transport visitors back in time to capture life in Ayutthaya as it was in its heyday. There are colourful murals as well as delicately constructed models of the city in its former glory.

Royal Palace

While not much exists of the old royal palace, Wang Luang, the brickwork remnants of the foundations still convey the grand scale of the regal lodgings. Established by King Borommatrailokanat in the 15th century and expanded by successive kings, the original site boasted three impressive receptions halls – the five-tiered roof of Sanphet Prasat Hall, Suriyat Amarin Hall, and Wihan Somdet Hall. The palace was razed by the Burmese in 1767.

Wat Chai Wattanaram, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

A part of the original palace grounds, next door stand the three famous Sri Lankan style chedi of Wat Phra Sri Sanphet. The royal chapel was where kings came to pray, and was the largest and most beautiful in Ayutthaya, a focal point of reverence just as the Emerald Buddha Temple is in Bangkok.

Two of the chedi were built in 1492 by Borommatrailokanat’s son Ramathibodi II to hold the ashes of his father and brother, while the third was added in 1540 by Ramathibodi’s son to hold the ashes of his late father. Today, the three perfectly symmetrical restored spires have become the symbolic landmark of Ayutthaya.

Chankasem Palace

Known as the Front Palace, King Maha Thammaracha built it for his son Prince Naresuan (later king), and it became the residence for future heirs to the throne. In 1767, the Burmese destroyed the palace, but King Mongkut (Rama IV) later resurrected it in the 19th century as a royal summer retreat. The palace now houses the small Chantharakasem National Museum, whose collection is most certainly worthy of perusal.

Chao Sam Phraya National Museum

Priceless treasures from the crypts of Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana enrich Thailand’s second largest museum, along with relics and artworks that span all major Thai art styles. Spread over two floors, the well-presented collection allows visitors to appreciate the intricacies and historic developments of Thai art and culture.

Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat, or Temple of the Great Relic, was originally once one of the most arresting temples in Ayutthaya, and one of its oldest, dating from the 1380s Constructed by King Boromaraja I, the chapel was the gravitating point for religious ceremonies, and where the Supreme Patriarch resided. Its divine attribute was its lofty laterite prang, which originally stood 50 metres (165 ft) tall. The prang later collapsed but the base foundations, which are circled by smaller restored chedi, still give visitors a strong impression of its sheer scale. A curious sight at the temple front is a dismembered stone Buddha head that has been embedded in the roots of an old banyan tree.

Wat Chai Wattanaram, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Wat Ratchaburana

One of Ayutthaya’s finest temples, Wat Ratchaburana was built in 1424 by the seventh king of Ayutthaya as a memorial to his elder brothers who had died together duelling to see who would inherit the throne.

Excavations in 1957 revealed a crypt hidden deep below the central tower, containing a fabulous wealth of priceless gold jewellery, rare Buddha images and other art objects.

Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit

For two centuries after Ayutthaya’s fall, a huge bronze Buddha sat exposed to the elements near Wat Phra Sri Sanphet. Based on the original building, a new Viharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit was built in 1956 around the restored statue.

Dating to the 15th century and over 12 metres tall, it is one of Thailand’s largest bronze images and is highly revered by local pilgrims.

Wat Phra Ram

Founded in 1369 by the son of Ayutthaya’s founding king, this is one of Ayutthaya’s oldest temples. The central terrace is dominated by a crumbling prang adorned with stucco naga, garuda, and Buddha statues. The reflection of the prang shimmers in the pond of lilies that surrounds the chapel, contributing to one of the island’s most relaxing locations.

Phra Chedi Si Suriyothai

This pagoda shrine commemorates the life and heroism of the Ayutthayan Queen Suriyothai, who masqueraded as a male warrior and rode an elephant into battle, sacrificing her life by interrupting a dual between her husband King Maha Chakraphetand a Burmese prince.

Off the Island

Upstream from Wat Phanan Choeng, the idyllic Wat Phutthaisawan juts up from the river’s edge. The quiet landing area is a wonderful spot to soak up the peaceful river afternoons. Farther upstream, the modest Cathedral of St Joseph is a Christian reminder of the large European community that made Ayutthaya their home.

Where the river bends is one of Ayutthaya’s most scenic locales, Wat Chai Wattanaram. The temple is popular with snap-happy tourists, especially towards sundown. Restored in the 1990s, the temple was built by King Prasat Thong. Standing tall on a pedestal in front of the chapel, a Buddha keeps watch over the domain.

Fireworks at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Ayutthaya Historical Park

Wat Na Phra Men was one of Ayutthaya’s only temples not to be destroyed by the Burmese. The pleasant setting conveys a more tangible sense of Ayutthayan architecture. The temple has several standout features including a large stone Buddha seated in the ‘European fashion’ on a throne, very different to the subduing Mara position of most seated Buddhas. With a huge chedi, Wat Yai Chai Mongkol was built to celebrate King Naresuan the Great’s slaying of the Burmese crown prince in 1592.

In grounds that are some of Ayutthaya’s best maintained, lines of Buddha images skirt the inner walls and there is also a large white reclining Buddha. Slightly north of the island, Wat Phu Khao Thong, better known as the Golden Mount, stands with its 80-metre-high (260-ft) chedi alone amidst the paddy fields, its elevated terraces offer a sweeping view of the landscape. In the opposite direction from the Golden Mount, is the only elephant kraal left in Thailand. This 16th century kraal is a reminder of a time when elephants were a vital element to a victorious army. Standing in the restored stockade with its huge wooden stacks, one can imagine the roar of the powerful pachyderms.

Getting There

By Rail
Trains depart from Hua Lamphong Railway Station in Bangkok several times daily and the journey takes around two hours.

By Bus
Buses leave every 30 minutes from the Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaent Phet II Road. The journey takes around 90 minutes.

By Car
Take Highway No.1 (Phahonyothin Road), and then take Highway No.2 to Ayutthaya.

By Boat
Several companies operate boat excursions to Ayutthaya some return the same day, while others take 2-3 days. The Chao Phraya Express Boat leaves every Sunday from Maharat Pier at 8 a.m., arriving in Ayutthaya around 10.30 a.m. The boat arrives back in Bangkok around 6 p.m. Tel. 0 2222 5330

The ancient town of Si Satchanalai was a satellite city to Sukhothai, situated on a lonely wooded plain about 50 km. north of the modern town of Sukhothai on the east bank of the Yom River. Strategically protected by mountains, swamps and river rapids, the remote, peaceful locale, with an incredible 134 temples and monuments, has been independently declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, yet surprisingly sees far fewer visitors than neighbouring Sukhothai. The tranquillity of historic ruins heightened by an absence of human traffic evokes a feeling of discovering a lost city.

Established in the 13th century as a Khmer military outpost, the town became the official residence for Sukhothai’s successive Prince Regents. Formerly called Muang Chaliang and during the Ayutthayan era was also known as Suwankhalok, the town was linked to Sukhothai by a 50 km. long road called the Phra Ruang Highway. This commercial centre was strongly fortified with a 10 m. wide moat lined with wooden spikes and three rows of perimeter walls in what is known as one of Thailand’s best planned cities. Apart from being a pleasure to explore, Si Satchanalai is also well recognised for the masterful ceramics produced in the nearby villages of Ban Ha Yang and Ban Ko-Noi to the north. Sangkhalok ceramics (pale blue or off-white porcelain, its intricate decorative patterns such as floral, foliage or fish motifs reveal the Chinese influence) is reputed as Southeast Asia’s finest of the day. Today, it is still possible to buy genuine antique Sangkhalok ceramics in the area.

Principal Sights

Wat Chang Lom

Meaning ‘Elephant Temple’ after the 39-stucco pachyderm sculptures that surround the central bell-shaped chedi base, Wat Chang Lom is Si Satchanalai’s principal monument. Built in 1285 by King Ramkam-haeng the Great, this most sacred of pagodas is Thailand’s earliest example of Ceylonese-style temple architecture. Beautifully ornamental laterite terraces, columns and a wall encircle the monument, with a line of niches that house stucco Buddha images peacefully meditating.

Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo

Across from Wat Chang Lom, this temple has seven rows of lotus-bud shaped chedi, marvellously decorated in various Asian architectural styles. Thought to house the ashes of the ruling Si Satchanalai dynasty, the 30-plus monuments imbue the Sukhothai style, as well as the best of Lao, Khmer, Ceylonese, and Burmese temple art. Archways and graceful walking Buddha images further enrich this gorgeous and architecturally significant temple.

Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng

A steep laterite staircase leads to the top of a small wooded hill near Wat Chang Lom, where lies this former site of ritual cremations. Appropriately named the ‘Temple of Mountain Fire’, the monument consists of a central Ceylonese-style brick chedi, and a large seated Buddha. Views from the top of the hill take in the splendid panorama of Si Satchanalai’s grand architectural design. A footpath from the temple leads to another larger hilltop just south, atop which stand the remains of the huge bell-shaped chedi at Wat Khao Suwan Khiri.

Wat Nang Phaya

South of Wat Chang Lom, this monument meaning ‘Temple of the Queen’ was one of the later structures to take root in 15th century Si Satchanalai. Aside from the Ceylonese chedi, a solitary chapel wall stands, famous for its magnificent surviving stucco floral relief decoration, which imitates the Ayutthayan artistic style.

Ruin of Old Celadon Factory (Thuriang Kiln)

The area around Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai are deservedly famed for their skilled tradition of ceramic production, known as Sangkhalok pottery. During the peak of popularity in the 14th-16th centuries, over 200 potters’ kilns lined the banks of the Yom River, moulding the world’s best glazed ceramics, celadon and decorative porcelain that were exported all over Southeast Asia. Interesting excavations of several kilns can be visited around the town of Sawankhalok, as well as the Sawankha Woranayok National Museum, which holds an extensive collection of well-preserved quality ceramics, many of which were salvaged from sunken ships in the Gulf of Thailand.

Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat

Slightly south of Si Satchanalai in Chaliang, nestled on a riverbank in a bend of the Yom River, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat centres round a supreme laterite prang. The 15th century structure is surrounded by the ruins of two chapels with several Buddha images, including a large seated Sukhothai Buddha with elegant long fingers, as well as a brick and stucco walking Buddha that is considered a masterpiece of the Sukhothai School.

Getting There

Buses leave regularly from Sukhothai town to Si Satchanalai. The journey of 60
km. takes around an hour.

Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park - A Defensive Citadel

Eighty kilometres south of Sukhothai in the opposite direction to Si Satchanalai, is the modest town of Kamphaeng Phet, in the province of the same name. Away  from the main tourist trail, Kamphaeng Phet (Diamond Wall) lies on the banks of the Ping River and was once a strategic garrison town for the defence of the mighty Sukhothai kingdom.

Although settlements date back to the 11th century, the Old City was established in 1347 by King Li Thai. To date, the ruins have been less restored than Sukhothai, and the 400-hectare Old City with its overgrown temples and six-metre high laterite walls, has a wilder and more untouched atmosphere compared to its familiar neighbour. A journey here is rewarded by an authentic slice of Thai life around the sleepy modern town, along with solitary walks around ancient ruins. Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park is roughly divided into two areas – the sights within the city walls and those beyond to the north. Some of the highlights include Wat Phra Kaeo, the park’s largest ruin with its weathered Buddha statues and chedi, and behind the temple is Kamphaeng Phet National Museum, which holds an interesting collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures. Also worthy of perusal is Wat Phrathat with its fine chedi and the Lak Mueang or City Pillar Shrine, whose guardian spirits protect local residents. Beyond the city walls are an intriguing collection of ruined forest temples, such as Wat Chang Rop (Elephant Temple), which date from the 14th - 16th centuries and were once the home of a meditation sect.

Getting There

There are direct buses from Bangkok to Kamphaeng Phet town from the Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road. The journey takes around five hours. Otherwise visitors can take a local bus or private mini van from Sukhothai town.

No trip to Thailand would be complete without a visit to the birthplace of the Thai nation and the country’s first capital, the ancient North Central Plains kingdom of Sukhothai. Meaning ‘dawn of happiness’, this pastoral located stretch of ruins spreads across 70 sq. km. and boasts 100 historical sites, including royal palaces, Buddhist temples, the city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches, ponds, and canals. Established in 1238, Sukhothai had previously been a far-flung outpost of the Khmer empire in Angkor. Rebellious Thai chiefs overthrew the Khmer army and installed the newly appointed King Si Indraditya as the now independent municipality’s first ruler. The Sukhothai Dynasty saw nine kings at the helm, with a rule that lasted over two centuries before eventually coming under the control of the younger Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya.

Sukhothai reached its pinnacle under King Ramkhamhaeng the Great (c.1279-98), who through an enlightened policy of political friendship and forging foreign relations; was responsible for extending the kingdom as far south as the Malay Peninsula and west into Myanmar. He is also credited with introducing Theravada Buddhism to Thailand, as well as inventing the Thai alphabet, evidence of which can be viewed in the Ramkhamhaeng stone inscription. The art and architecture that blossomed under the Sukhothai School is among Thailand’s most attractive and finest. The architectural style of the period began as a fusion of Asian influences, from Khmer to Sri Lanka, though gradually unique elements emerged to define Sukhothai’s individual stamp of creativity. Artisans excelled particularly in the stucco work and sculpture that adorned temple structures, especially the fluid bronze casts that are best seen in the sensual flowing ‘walking’ Buddha style.

Unlike Ayutthaya, foreign invaders never destroyed Sukhothai and much of the city was abandoned in tact. Preserved yet forgotten, Sukhothai lay abandoned and buried in jungle until the 18th and 19th centuries when the Chakri kings from the new capital of Bangkok began retrieving its lost treasures and displaying them in the newly built palaces and temples. Located some 450 km. north of Bangkok, the immaculately restored park is set among leafy hills and peaceful lotus ponds, lying some 12 km. from present day Sukhothai town. A visual feast and a joy to discover, images of panoramic scenes of complex brick and laterite towers, columns and pagodas with immense Buddha images reflected in still water, strike awe in even the most seasoned of travellers. Sukhothai is one of the most ambient spots to soak up the magical candlelit floats that glisten in the moonlit water during the annual Loi Krathong Festival each November full moon. Modern Sukhothai town provides an excellent base camp for daily sorties to the ruins, with clean, affordable guesthouses, and intimate cafés and restaurants to get to know friendly locals and fellow travellers. A visit to Sukhothai should be first top of the list on any tourist itinerary; it reveals astounding insights as to how this ancient city left a long and lasting legacy upon the Thai identity.

The Royal Palace & Wat Mahathat

The spiritual and political heart of Sukhothai, this was Thailand’s first regal palace and is adjoined by the royal sanctuary Wat Mahathat, or Temple of the Great Relic. Sadly little remains of the palace, or Noen Prasat, the site where King Mongkut (Rama IV) uncovered the famous Ramkhamhaeng Inscription tablet and the royal throne Manangkhasila Asana in 1833. These priceless relics have since been moved to Bangkok; the throne is in the Grand Palace, and the stone inscription is on view at the National Museum. Sukhothai’s most expansive temple, Wat Mahathat was founded by the kingdom’s first ruler Si Indraditya in the 13th century, and later improved upon by the fourth king Lo Thai. Surrounded by a wall, there are almost 200 pagodas and the remnants of several chapels dotted around the temple complex, all-spreading outward from the epicentre lotus-bud shaped monument tower, known as a chedi or stupa. The chedi is where sacred relics are interred, in this case hair and neck bone relics of Lord Buddha brought back from Sri Lanka. There is an interesting and unusual frieze of walking monks around the base of the chedi. Set among several lily filled pools are some fine-seated Buddha statues, and flanking the central chedi are giant standing Buddha images, known as Phra Attharot. This noble sanctuary brims with historic landmarks and is a joy to unravel before moving onto to explore Sukhothai’s other main sites.

Ramkhamhaeng National Museum

Named after Sukhothai’s most illustrious ruler; this museum is an excellent place to  get an introduction to the ancient city before physically heading out to explore the sites. On display in the outstanding collection are early 20th century photographs of Sukhothai taken well before any restoration, as well as a fine bronze walking Buddha that is considered the best example of its kind in the country. Other artefacts include dozens of fine Buddha statues of various styles and periods, as well as a replica of the famed Ramkhamhaeng stone pillar (the original is now in Bangkok’s National Museum). The 1293 stone is inscribed with early Thai text that unfurls with rich detail the history of Sukhothai.

King Ramkhamhaeng the Great Monument

Just north of Wat Mahathat sits an esteemed statue to Sukhothai’s greatest king, Ramkhamhaeng (c.1278-1318). Credited for bringing peace, political stability, and religious freedom to the kingdom, King Ramkhamhaeng the Great is also attributed for having invented the Thai alphabet. The bronze statue is seen sitting on a replica of the Manangkhasila Asana throne, the original of which was discovered in the ruins of Sukhothai’s royal palace, and is now kept in Bangkok’s Grand Palace.

Wat Si Sawai

Southwest of Wat Mahathat, this Khmer influenced temple has three dominant central prang adorned in Hindu imagery. Started by a king of Angkor in the 12th century, the temple was later converted to a Buddhist temple. Surrounded by a laterite wall, the three powerful looking towers are embellished in mythical naga serpents and half-bird, half-human garuda.

Wat Traphang Thong

Located on an island in the middle of a lovely symmetrical flower-filled pool known as the Golden Lake, this temple has a restored Sri Lankan-style chedi and a pavilion containing an important 14th century stone footprint of Lord Buddha. The picturesque locale is where Loi Krathong Festival was originally celebrated.

Wat Chang Rop, Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park

Wat Sa Si

Surely one of Sukhothai’s most beautiful temple settings, Wat Sa Si, or Sacred Pond Temple, sits in the middle of a pretty lotus-filled lake. Reached by a narrow wooden footbridge, the exquisite site centres round a Sri-Lankan style bell-shaped chedi accompanied by statues of a large seated Buddha as well as a dark looking walking Buddha. A photographer’s dream, the reflective lake is the ideal spot to celebrate the annual Loi Krathong Festival in November.

Wat Chang Lom, Sukhothai Historical Park

Wat Phra Phai Luang

Surrounded by a moat, this site is second in importance to Wat Mahathat, and originally existed as a Hindu temple for the Khmer community that settled here before the Thais in the early 13th century. Meaning Temple of the Great Wind, the large temple has three central laterite prang, though only one has been restored to reveal its fine stucco work. Later converted to a Buddhist shrine, there is also a crumbling mondop with Buddha images in varying postures.

Wat Si Chum

Outside the northwest gate of the old city, this mondop enshrines Sukhothai’s most impressive Buddha statue. The 14th century giant 15 m. brick and stucco seated image dramatically peers out through a narrow opening in the sanctuary with rows of pillars standing guard out front.

Wat Saphan Hin

Standing a couple of kilometres west of the old city atop a 200 m. high hill, the remote Temple of the Stone Bridge gets its name from the exhausting climb of a steep slate slab pathway that leads up to the summit. The hilltop offers commanding views of Sukhothai and the mountains beyond, but the hike is also rewarded by the mesmerising sight of a 12.5 m. tall stucco standing Buddha with his hand raised in an attitude of forgiveness. Posed among the remaining pillars of the temple chapel, the image appears to be keeping watch over the city below.

Getting There

By Air
Thai Airways flies regularly from Bangkok to Phitsanulok province. The flight takes around 55 minutes, and you can then travel by car to Sukhothai. Bangkok Airways also flies daily from Bangkok to Sukhothai as well as Sukhothai to Chiang Mai, and even Luang Prabang in neighbouring Lao P.D.R.. Tel. 0 2535 4843

By Rail
The nearest railway station is at Phitsanulok, from where there are frequent bus services to Sukhothai, some 50 km. away. Trains depart Hua Lamphong Railway Station in Bangkok daily. Tel. 0 2220 4334, Hotline: 1699 Website: www.railway.co.th

By Bus
Buses from Bangkok Bus Terminal on Kamphaeng Phet II Road leave for Sukhothai daily. Tel. 0 2936 2852-6

By Car
From Bangkok, take Highway No.1 then No. 32 north to Nakhon Sawan. Highway 32 becomes Highway No.1 again, follow all the way to Kamphaeng Phet, then take Highway 101 to Sukhothai.

Huge investment has been put into opening top-notch restaurants that offer only superb cuisine prepared by award- winning chefs. Among them are The Dome complex and Breeze Asian seafood restaurant at lebua at State Tower, the luxury boutique hotel on Silom Road; China House at The Oriental Hotel with its dramatic new decor; the newly-designed rooftop Rib Room & Bar (RR&B) at the Landmark Bangkok Hotel; the splendid Prime steak house restaurant at Millennium Hilton Bangkok; D’Sens French restaurant at the Dusit Thani; Pier 59 seafood restaurant at Banyan Tree; and Madison at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. Stand-alone restaurants include Le Beaulieu French/Mediterranean restaurant in Sukhumvit Soi 19, and Harvey with Californian-style cuisine in Thong Lo Soi 9.

Top 10 Favorite Localities

1. Narathiwat-Ratchanakharin

One of the most lively after-dark strips in Bangkok, Narathiwat-Ratchanakharin Road attracts bar-hoppers, after work drinkers and restaurant hunters. The strip, which runs from Surawong to Silom to Sathon and ends at Rama 3 Road, is a fairly new addition to the urban dining scene, and to most Bangkokians it is a great alternative to the traffic-clogged Sathon/Silom area nearby.

Many appealing dining venues line up the Narathiwat-Ratchanakharin — both on main street and in small sois, packed every night with business execs, expats and local office workers from around the area.

2. Sukhumvit

This is a cosmopolitan thoroughfare with restaurants to match. Italian, American, French, German, Japanese, Indian and Thai restaurants many of good quality line the road. Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lo) and its environs is culinary fantasy world; Sukhumvit sois 23, 24, 31, 49 and 63 are all good restaurant streets.

3. Yaowarat (Chinatown)

Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown contains some of the best, and also the most expensive Chinese restaurants in the city, along with many of the good and cheapest food stalls, especially at night. Large restaurants line the bustling Yaowarat Road, but venture into side streets to find less impressive yet equally enjoyable establishments. At night the neon glow from hundreds of stalls electrifies the atmosphere of the streets. The streetside seafood stalls draw such crowds that late-comers have to wait for seats.

4. Silom

Several food streets are linked to this road in Bangkok’s busiest area. As if awakened by the street lights, seafood stalls sprout along the section near Saladaeng after sunset until late at night. Nearby Convent Road offers French, Italian, Swiss, Californian and an Irish pub. Opposite, a crush of Japanese restaurants makes Soi Thaniya into a lively walkway for Japanese visitors and sushi lovers of all nationalities. And everywhere, Thai food is available in palace style and street style, side by side.

5. Riverside

Dining on a bank of the Chao Phraya River is always a memorable experience. There are many riverside eateries along the river bank, from Rama 9 Bridge to Sathon Bridge and King Rama I Memorial Bridge to Phra Nang Klao Bridge in Nonthaburi. Among the recent additions are Kin Lom Chom Saphan in Bang Lamphu, Baan Klang Nam on Rama 3 Road, Good View on Tok Road, To-Sit Pier on Charan Sanitwong 92, River Bar on Thon Buri bank and D-River in Bang Khlo.

For more luxurious dining in an elegant setting, Bangkok’s famous riverside hotels are some of the fi nest in the world. From The Oriental, Royal Orchid Sheraton and Shangri-La on the Bangkok side to the Peninsula and Hilton Millennium on the opposite bank, they provide a magical dining out experience.

6. Lang Suan

This is a boulevard of smart new restaurants in an upmarket residential and commercial area. Cool places occupy both the main road and the small sois that branch off. Like Sukhumvit Road, Lang Suan offers a diverse mix of Thai, Asian, and European cuisines such as the classy Calderazzo, No. 43 and Ma Be Ba Italian restaurants and the chic French Cafe Lenotre.

7. Bang Lamphu-Khao San

Bang Lamphu and Khao San Road were always the favourite haunt of young travellers on a tight budget, but they now have much more general appeal with a colourful range of bars and restaurants. Khao San Road is still young, still very lively but with many more choices and rewards awaiting the bold explorer.

8. Pahurat

Known as Bangkok’s Little India, the alleyways of the Pahurat area are home to many authentic Indian and Pakistani restaurants. The atmosphere is less chaotic than neighbouring Yaowarat, yet the vivacity can still be felt in this small, thriving community.

9. Siam Square

This shopping area is crammed with medium to high priced eateries as well as American fast-food outlets. Traditional Thai restaurants rub shoulders with fast food franchises and Japanese suki parlours. Soi 1 has conventional Chinese restaurants, with the Bangkok Hard Rock Cafe just along the street. Stalls sell meatballs, grilled squid, and fried bananas along the walkways that connect the main streets.

10. Prasert Manukit-Pradit Manutham

This new eight-lane strip under the Ekamai-Ram Indra Expressway is a popular hub of dining venues. Along the 10-kilometer stretch and around the corner of every intersection there are garden restaurants offering Thai foods and seafood with the most authentic tastes.

Chumphon

As the gateway to the South, Chumphon is blessed with a long coastline facing the Gulf of Thailand, where a number of unspoilt beaches afford the opportunity for a quiet escape. The best is Hat Thung Wua Laen, which offers resort accommodation and a dive centre. This is also a hopping-off point for Ko Tao.

Ko Thalu, Chumphon

Hat Thung Wua Laen, Chumphon

Getting There
Chumphon can be reached by bus or train from Bangkok, the journey taking 7-8 hours.

Ranong

Flanking Chumphon on the Andaman coast, Ranong is best known for its natural hot springs, although it is also characterised by dense tropical greenery, picturesque waterfalls and coastal waters dotted with islands. The beaches are not the best in the country, but Ranong is fascinating as somewhere different, the style of holiday offered being one of exploring an intriguing stretch of coast, including excursions by boat into neighbouring Myanmar.

Getting There
Phuket Air and Bangkok Airways operate flights between Bangkok and Ranong (flying time 1 hour). Air conditioned buses to Ranong depart from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal, the journey taking about 12 hours.

Trang

Ko Ma, Trang

South of Krabi, Trang is poised to establish itself on the international travel map. As yet little developed, although international-standard hotels are opening up, Trang has both mainland beaches and a whole string of offshore islands just waiting to be discovered. Cruising the coastal waters, visiting such notable sights as the enchanting Emerald Cave, accessible only by water, is a major attraction.

Tham Morakot, Trang

Getting There
Thai Airways International operates a daily service from Bangkok, with a flight time of little over 1 hour. Trang can also be reached by overnight train or bus from Bangkok.

The Far South

For the thrill of discovering a tropical beach before international vacationers do, the intrepid traveller should head to the far southern provinces of Nakhon Si Thammarat, Pattani and Narathiwat, all facing the Gulf of Thailand. Here, beaches such as Sa Bua, Sichon and Hin Ngam in Nakhon Si Thammarat, Ratchadaphisek, Talo Kapo and Thepha in Pattani, and Narathat in Narathiwat offer sandy stretches frequented, if at all, by only the local fi shing communities whose brightly painted boats are characteristic of the region.

Hat Khae Khae, Pattani

Getting There
Thai Airways International operates daily fl ights from Bangkok to Nakhon Si Thammarat, while all provincial capitals are served by buses from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal.

With broad sweeps of golden sun-warmed sand, the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand, and some of the finest in elegant, serene seaside accommodation on Earth, the enchanting island of Samui has everything necessary for a dream vacation all year round.

1. The Renaissance Ko Samui Resort & Spa

Styled after a Thai village, The Renaissance Ko Samui Resort & Spa overlooks the always popular Lamai Bay and is perfectly placed to deliver the perfect holiday atmosphere for all their guests. A recently added ‘Millionaires Package’ includes private jet transfers from Singapore, Hong Kong or Bangkok has made this holiday destination even more exclusive, with this personal chef, private butler, personal trainer, spa treatments, and private limousine on 24 hour standby.

2. The Signature Collection

‘The Signature Collection’ of Samui Villas & Homes Co., Ltd.’s  has some of the most sought after beachfront locations for luxury holiday villas on Samui. Each villa comes complete with its own staff plus English-speaking Villa Manageress and full-time Thai chef. Large living areas, swimming pool, expansive landscaped tropical gardens, fitness centers, saunas and every other conceivable modern amenity (including a nanny) adds to the feeling of vacationing in your own private paradise.

3. The Tongsai Bay

With its isolated tropical garden and hilly landscape and extremely private beach front The Tongsai Bay, a member of the ‘Small Luxury Hotels of the World’ group, stands out as one of the most perfect places to enjoy a holiday on Ko Samui. Pure luxury competes with nature’s own offerings for your undivided attention. A swimming pool and Jacuzzi filled with seawater, tennis courts, fine dining restaurants and the spa are among the many diversions to partake of during your stay at Ko Samui’s first five-star resort.

4. Four Seasons Resort

With the backing of a first class organization and reputation behind it the Four Seasons Resort, Ko Samui is a veritable ‘Garden of Eden’ with all the modern amenities man could want included. Sixty villas and fourteen homes—built on stilts, each with infinity pool and ocean view —create their own village atmosphere on the Laem Yai peninsula. The spa completes a heavenly stay; the individual spa treatments are based on a fusion of Thai, Yogic and other Asian cultures.

5. Napasai

photo credit: lesley83meade

Set in the midst of 117 Rai of tropical landscape the Napasai uses a contemporary Thai village style of high ceilings and tall pillars combined with modern elegance and luxury to visually please like few other resorts can. This five-star resort & spa gives the choice of a beachfront or sea view cottages; pool villas all with large living areas and Northern Thai style furnishings.

6. Sila Evason Hideaway Samui

At the top of every list when it comes to finest spa destinations in Thailand is the Sila Evason Hideaway Samui, perched on the northern tip of Ko Samui surrounded by 20 acres of tropical jungle, stunning views of the Gulf of Thailand and the surrounding islands. All villas are split level with open style bathrooms and bedrooms facing the sea, private infinity pools with Pool Villa Butlers and other expertly trained staff catering to your every need and also offers the renowned holistic spa program.

7. Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa

A prime destination for honeymoons and weddings, the Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa has something to offer for those with discerning taste. Zazen is comfortable, cosy, exploding with color, and personality and it is seemingly perfect for photography of all things tropical. What started as a few huts for backpackers has grown into a unique boutique resort with a full range of spa services that not only pleases visually but spiritually as well.

8. The Villa Lawana Resort

The Villa Lawana Resort is ideally located few minutes from Samui airport and walking distance from Chaweng center but maintains a comforting distance for peace and tranquility. All 122 villas have distinct character, featuring private plunge pools, and give the distinct impression of staying in a private Thai home they are enhanced with all amenities you expect from a first class resort. Guests in every villa enjoy a private plunge pool and/or large soaking tub as well as a shady terrace. Have a cup of tea or cocktail and the charming hillside SkyHug lounge, overlooking the ocean.

Much of the appeal can be found in the pristine white sand, clear blue sea and tranquil surrounding. These are among the many things that make guests feel truly relaxed and stress-free.Amarin Victoria Samui Resort is the hotel that can fulfill all the needs of those seeking to wind down, whatever the mood is, with three main concepts. The ida is to care for the feeling of every guest so that each is endowed with happiness right from the very first step into the resort.

The first concept is Unique Design Concept, conveying a difference in mood and tone unlike other resorts on Koh Samui. The originality of the design comes from the intention to keep things simple, minimalist style. There is décor from the West laced with the Thai style that makes a nice combination. Wood furniture in plain colour tastefully arranged with crisp, Thai fabric in each room, combined with facilities in the bathrooms, are sure to make a comfortable gateway. What’s more, each room is carefully designed to facilitate each gust to the maximum.

Lcation: Nothern part of Samui on Maenam beach Area, 15 minutes from Koh Samui airport and only 4 minutes to the beach.
Accommodation: 46 rooms in four types – Studio Room, Deluxe Studio, Junior Suite and Executive Suite.
Rate: B 3,000 – 8,000

The second concept is Smart Design Concept, an appreciative gesture because your stay will help save electricity and natural surroundings. This is because the resort has set up a system that takes the heat generated from air conditioning to produce hot water from each room, making your joyous trip environmentally friendly. The Smart Design Concept is also tech-savvy, with a wireless internet system that allows you to get connected through your finger tips. The concept also comes equipped with complete sound system ideal from seminars or functions, with nicely embellished function rooms to accommodate.

The third concept is Be Yourself Concept, which is a customized treatment, making you feel exclusive with careful attention from the resort’s staffs. For instance, you may wish for some flowers in your room, or revive your self with scented candles or aromatherapy with a private in-room spa. Even the size of your pillows can be arranged as you wish making your stay at Amarin Victoria Samui Resort as happy as possible.

Of course, hitting the beach also means water sports such as snorkeling and island hopping. Information regarding these activities is provided at the resort.

Another pleasure when vacationing is to please your palate with sumptuous seafood. Find three outlets. The Main Restaurant on the lower level tantalizes with Thai and international fare. Nearby, The Liquid Corner serves a variety of hot and cold beverages, including cocktails and alcoholic drinks. If a panoramic view is what you desire with your drinks and snacks, venture up the fourth floor to Under the Stars.

Amarin Victoria Samui Resort:
Address: 12/71 Moo 1, Tumbol Marnam, Amphur Koh Samui, Suratthani 84330

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