If you’re brave enough to undertake some car-based ghost hunting this All Hallows Eve then there’s no shortage of haunted roads to discover across England.

Bedfordshire

At the roundabout which marks the junction of Tavistock Street, Union Street and Clapham Road in Bedford you may happen upon Black Tom. The 19th Century outlaw was said to have been executed and buried here with a stake impaled in his heart to prevent him from ever returning. Various accounts in recent years suggest it didn’t work, with witnesses describing a figure with a broken neck staggering around the area before disappearing.

Cheshire

On Bolton’s Belmont Road is the gruesome figure of a just-hanged man, eyes popping from his head and still with the hangman’s noose around his neck. Reportedly he was wrongly hanged for highway robbery and manifests in protest. More recently the site has also been haunted by the victims of a fatal car crash. Witnesses report hearing the screech of tyres and screams but no car is to be seen.

The M6 between junctions 16-19 is believed to be Britain’s most haunted stretch of motorway. Roman soldiers and victims of the Civil War are among the ghostly figures seen. Check out the full spooky story here.

Devon

On Ashleigh Road in Barnstaple, Devon, the ghost of highwayman Tom Faggus was last spotted in 2005, according to the Paranormal Database. Faggus, like Robin Hood, would only steal from the rich during his 17th century crime spree. Finally, after much effort he was captured and killed at a tavern and he is believed to still haunt the area.

Between Tavistock and Dartmoor on what is now the A386 you may be unfortunate enough to encounter the ghost of Lady Howard, riding in a coach made from the bones of her dead husbands and pulled by headless horses. As a child Mary had grown up in the stately Fitzford House, but after her father died by suicide, she was sold by King James I to the Earl of Northumberland. She was married to his brother who died shortly afterwards. Mary would later elope with Thomas Darcy, who also died within a few months of matrimony. Two further husbands came along and then departed, hence there being sufficient bones for her ghoulish transportation. As if all this wasn’t enough, her escort along the road is said to be a fierce hellhound.

Suffolk

On the A12 from Ipswich toward Keeningland, near Blythburgh Common two ghouls have been spotted regularly for more than 200 years. The first is a woman in a long flowing dress, her accomplice a highwayman. Nobody knows who they are or how they came to meet their ends.

Northumberland

Residents of Buckton face the familiar sight of Grizelda the Highwaywomen who appears regularly at the end of every month. Dressed in a man’s garb she is claimed to have stopped a stagecoach which was carrying an execution order for a fellow criminal.

Surrey

In January 2007 on the A31 at Hogs Back a driver claimed to have witnessed an old box carriage crossing the road ahead. It was raining and the carriage was lit only by a dim lantern. What' freaked the driver out was that as he reached the spot where the carriage had crossed he realised there was no road there. On the same spot over 50 years earlier another traveller stopped to assist a woman in a long white dress standing by the roadside. She, too disappeared without trace.

Yorkshire

Terrifying canines are said to haunt the minor roads of West Riding in Yorkshire. In Jane Eyre, Charlotte Brontë writes: “As this horse approached, and as I watched for it to appear through the dusk, I remembered certain of Bessie's tales, wherein figured a North-of-England spirit called a "Gytrash," which, in the form of horse, mule, or large dog, haunted solitary ways, and sometimes came upon belated travellers, as this horse was now coming upon me.” Over in the Dales around Whitby travellers would report encounters with a “Barghest” that would bear its huge teeth and claws, before disappearing into thin air. Meanwhile, on the roads around Atwick in East Riding a headless highwayman lurks in the shadows. According to reports he remains astride his horse as he haunts the roads where he once demanded travellers to “Stand and Deliver!”

Finally, the A616 Stocksbridge Bypass in South Yorkshire is claimed to be Britain’s most haunted highway. Leaping ghouls, haunting songs and floating monks are just some of the apparitions seen here. For all the ghoulish details click here.

Nik Berg recalls a haunting HALLOWEEN drive in Massachusetts.

It’s the time of year for spooky stories. Tales of haunted highways and beastly byways, of which we’ve got plenty at Detour.

This one is personal, and although it happened more than 30 years ago, I still feel the chills like it was yesterday.

My girlfriend (now Mrs B) and I were young, fearless and fuelled by a strong pound/weak dollar on a road trip around New England in the autumn (fall). In a borrowed Jaguar we sought out the towns that took their names from the old country (much like Simon Heptinstall did here).

We drove 2,000 miles through wooded roads whose foliage changed day by day. We ate in diners and stayed in inexpensive motels, took Detours to Niagara Falls and the outskirts of New York City. There were scary moments, such as being pulled over by a shotgun-wielding Sheriff and spending a night in a Connecticut flea pit where our neighbour clearly made her living in nocturnal entertainment. Roxanne didn’t need to put on a red light for us to know exactly what she was up to.

In Salem, we visited the Witch Museum and watched a recreation of the famous trials that took place here in 1692-1693. More than 200 people were accused of witchcraft after two young girls began suffering fits, triggering a mass hysteria. In total, 25 people died, with 19 hanged, five expiring from disease in prison, and one pressed to death by stones.

Seeking somewhere to stay that evening we found ourselves at a small B&B, decorated for Halloween with hundreds upon hundreds of pumpkins of all shapes and sizes. Unfortunately, it was full, but the owner said her friends could accommodate us.

Shortly, a battered pickup truck pulled up, and a wizened old man with flowing grey locks and an immense beard got out. He appeared to be wearing nothing but a set of denim dungarees.

We were invited to follow him home, on a route that took us deep into the woods on a gravel track not suited to a low-slung Jaguar. Finally, we arrived at a clearing and there, on its own, stood a timber-framed house. By now the sun was setting, and the fading light made it all the more eerie. The jangle of wind chimes in a chill breeze didn’t help much either.

Gandalf introduced his wife, who could not have looked more like a witch if she’d walked off the set of Wicked wearing a pointed hat. She showed us up creaking wooden steps to our room. Bare floorboards, a small rug, a bed with a patchwork quilt, and there, in the corner, a rocking chair that we just knew would have a life of its own.

We mumbled excuses about wanting to get nearer to our next destination and departed in a shower of gravel. It was some hours later, in those pre-mobile, pre-internet days, that we finally found a chain motel for the night.

The next day we inadvertently found ourselves back in the same spot, and as we passed the track that we’d left in such a hurry the previous evening, the Jaguar gave out a mighty screech. A horrible grinding wail that came from one of the front wheels.

At the next gas station we pulled in, and I found a stone wedged in the brakes, yet the road we’d been on was smooth tarmac. Coincidence or curse? Either way, we couldn’t wait to get the hell out of Massachusetts.

Words & Photography Nik Berg‍ ‍Instagram

This spectacular, winding coastal drive passes through the world’s second-oldest national park and reveals a landscape shaped by millennia of culture and ingenuity.

I’ve been drawn to the northern section of Australia’s Grand Pacific Drive not only for its reputation as one of the country’s great coastal drives, but also because it passes through the forested wilderness of Royal National Park, established in 1879 and considered the world’s second-oldest national park.

I start in Loftus, a leafy suburb around 20 miles south of Sydney. A short stretch along the Princes Highway leads to the park, where the landscape changes almost instantly. A tall canopy of eucalypts and palms closes in above the tarmac, scattering dappled sunlight across the road, before a pleasing series of twists and turns leads down to the Hacking River. Climbing again, tighter bends give way to longer curves before I take the turn towards Bundeena.

The forest suddenly falls away as the road reaches a ridgeline. A broad blue sky opens overhead; Sydney’s skyline is perfectly silhouetted against the northern horizon, while to the east, the glittering sapphire Pacific seems to stretch on forever.

Bundeena arrives as a sleepy hamlet of weatherboard houses. A walk along Jibbon Beach, past white-sailed boats darting around the harbour, leads to the ancient rock engravings at Jibbon Head. Created by the Dharawal people, who have inhabited this landscape for millennia, the engravings – many depicting animals – are carved into a natural sandstone platform, offering a glimpse into a culture deeply connected to the land.

Back behind the wheel, more winding descents and weaving ascents take me south through the hilly heart of the national park. At Bald Hill Lookout, some 180 metres above sea level, the trees thin to reveal a stunning panorama. White-topped surf pounds the sandy cove far below, while the coastline beyond sweeps southwards, diminishing into the distance.

The steep descent of the Illawarra escarpment brings me to Stanwell Park, where signs tell the story of Lawrence Hargrave (1850–1915), the aeronautical pioneer who lived nearby. Hargrave developed the box kite and, in 1894, used four linked kites to lift himself nearly five metres above this beach, an experiment that contributed to the development of early aviation.

The road climbs again, hugging the escarpment as it rounds Coalcliff. Then comes one of the drive’s most dramatic engineering feats: Sea Cliff Bridge.

Constructed after repeated rockfalls forced the original road to close, the structure appears to float above the ocean. Its 665-metre length follows the coastline, running parallel to the cliff face and projecting out over the water on tall concrete piers. Driving across it feels like levitating above the waves.

The drama gradually subsides as the escarpment retreats inland, providing a verdant backdrop while the road stays coastal. In quick succession, I pass through Scarborough, Wombarra, Coledale, Austinmer and Thirroul, a string of beachside communities where café life seems more dictated by the sea than the road.

From Thirroul, Bulli Pass provides a final flourish, climbing back up the escarpment at gradients of up to 14.6 per cent and winding through a tight hairpin. Before long, I’m zipping back to Loftus along the Princes Motorway. 

I’ve completed a 70-mile circuit, but the journey has been far more than a drive along the Pacific coast. From the Dharawal people’s enduring cultural legacy and the far-sighted Victorian-era vision of establishing a national park to Hargrave’s pioneering experiments with flight, the engineering achievement of Sea Cliff Bridge and even the easy-going beachside café culture, the route reveals the many ways in which people have lived with, learnt from and shaped this coastline.

Words & Photography Indi Bains

ROADBOOK

CLASS: Coastal Cruise

NAME: Grand Pacific Drive

ROUTE: Loftus to Loftus

COUNTRY: Australia

Distance: 71 Miles

Standing alone at the top of a hill, this storied travellers’ rest has weathered storms, welcomed notable visitors – as well as nameless nomads – and now distils its own whisky…

First came the road, and then came the Cat & Fiddle. Built in the early 1800s to provide respite for weary travellers, this former inn sits on an exposed spot at the summit of the A537 between Buxton and Macclesfield; a notorious 11.5 mile route to which it gives its name.

To reach its altitude of 1,689ft, the lay of the land is such that the climb comprises twists and turns in quick succession. If you get a clear run, it’s a sensational drive, but be wary of the steep drops; the A537 is oft hailed as the most dangerous road in the UK. Charles Rolls was a big fan. He used it to prove the mettle of the motors he pioneered with a certain Mr Royce. Picture their triumphant arrival at the Cat & Fiddle, eager for a spot of lunch.

In 2014, last orders were called on Christmas Eve. Longstanding, but down on its luck, the Peak District landmark stood empty for five melancholy years before it was rescued, renovated and reopened by a family of local distillers. Putting their single malt whisky to sleep in the cellar, once matured it now gets served in the bar. To try the full range, a whisky flight is the aficionados choice, while a tour includes multiple tastings, as well as a cocktail (the old fashioned, my fave) and a thorough grain to glass education. Chin, chin!

With views of the forest from which the family forages botanicals for their gin, the scenery on the Cat & Fiddle doorstep is spectacular, particularly at sunset, or on a clear night when when the moon makes the moorland below glow. Stay a while, relax, and let the knots in your back loosen.

On a cold day, a warm welcome is guaranteed. The staff and servers are joyfully enthusiastic; they’re a genuine and friendly sort. Plus, the log fire is bound to be crackling; there’s a cosy, comforting thought. I wasn’t the desi-driver when I visited, so I thoroughly enjoyed a soothing dram. Well, three. Maybe four.

As home to Britain’s highest distillery, the Cat & Fiddle has been saved from becoming a fabled ruin – for now. Being roadside doesn’t make certain that traffic will come. The impact of major roadworks during the summer of ’26 has been devastating, and during the winter, if the weather sets in, the stone-built building can get cut off.

It’d be a tragedy to see history repeat itself, especially with Christmas Eve on the approach. So, if you can, spend a few pounds in the distillery shop before you go. Stocked with takeaway tipples including pre-mixed cans of G&T and whisky ginger, (useful if you’re packing light), there’s branded merch as well. Orders can be made online, but stay true to the Detourist spirit and set a date to make a return visit, or first pit stop, at the Cat & Fiddle next year. After all, why should the courier delivering your goodies have all the fun?

Words Charlotte Vowden
Photography Charlotte Vowden Instagram & Forest Distillery

ROADBOOK

CLASS: PUB & DISTILLERY

NAME: Cat & fiddle

ROUTE: A537, Macclesfield, Cheshire East, England, SK11 0AR

COUNTRY: England

Unspoilt. It’s a word that’s overused and seldom truly applicable, but Albania’s Vjosa River makes a compelling claim.

Its source is 80 miles across the border in the Pindus mountains of Greece, in a UNESCO Geopark, while the entire 119 miles of Vjosa in Albania is also protected as a “managed nature reserve”. Uninterrupted by dams all the way to the Adriatic coast, this is a truly wild river. And the drive that follows its banks is pretty wild, too 

Perhaps not as wild as the traffic in the capital Tiranë, however. The city of around 600,00 people is crammed between mountains, with precious little room to expand except up. Shiny new towers rise high above the drab communist era blocks, while below them there’s a constant stream of cars, trucks and their accompanying horns.

The Mazda CX-30 I’m driving takes it all in its stride, cutting and thrusting where necessary to fight through the chaos. There are battles that I won’t pick, however, and those are with the sinister black AMG G-Wagons and Lamborghini Urus SUVs whose drivers act like they own the road – and quite possibly do.

It’s a relief to escape and head south on the A3 motorway towards Elbasan before joining the SH7 in the direction of the Adriatic. The SH4 takes me south, skirting Fier, but it’s not until beyond Gjonç that I catch sight of the Vjosa for the first time.

For the last couple of hours, it’s felt like something of a slog to put Tiranë behind me on largely featureless, mostly straight roads, and seeing the wide expanse of Vjosa, albeit barely a trickle, after an intensely hot summer, is welcome. Now on the SH75, I pass numerous white water rafting centres, but spy only two rafts on the river itself. Come spring, when the meltwater runs off the mountains, I imagine that hurtling down the foaming rapids would be exhilarating, but for now the Vjosa runs at a gentle speed.

The road follows the flow of the river, meandering along its banks, crossing tributaries on narrow iron bridges, then detouring inland and up, in a section that throws in hairpin after hairpin as it ascends, revealing glorious views over the Vjosa valley below. For a compact SUV the CX-30 is surprisingly fun on the bendy bits, with direct steering and well-managed body control. Its 2.5-litre engine is reasonably gutsy, but doesn’t sound like it’s enjoying itself, while the six-speed automatic transmission occasionally opts for an inappropriate gear, even in Sport mode. It’s possible to change manually, and I try that for a time, which is a little better. An MX-5 would be ideal here, especially with top dropped to enjoy the mountain air. 

The Perati Bridge was long a crossing into neighbouring Greece, until it was destroyed during World War II. It’s since been replaced by a small border post and bridge, and it’s not far past here that I turn north away from the Vjosa on the SH65 to Leskovik.

Here I find the Melesin Distillery, makers of award-winning gin, wine, and raki. There’s also a restaurant on site serving tasty local produce and a few rooms, should you decide to imbibe.

If you want to spoil yourself after this unspoilt drive, I’d highly recommend it.

Words Nik Berg‍ ‍Instagram
Photography Dave Smith / Mazda

ROADBOOK

CLASS: River Run

NAME: Vjosa Valley

ROUTE: Tiranë to Leskovik

COUNTRY: Albania

Distance: 200 Miles

British TV presenter Ben Shephard has set a new Guinness World Record by tackling the Three Peaks Challenge in the most efficient manner ever recorded.

Shephard used a Jaecoo 7 SHS-P to get him between the peaks of Ben Nevis, in Scotland, Scafell Pike in England and Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) in Wales. Shephard did the climbing, while economy driving experts Kevin Booker and Sam Clarke took the wheel.

The Jaecoo, often referred to as the ‘Temu Range Rover’ for its budget price and upmarket looks, achieved 68.7mpg over the 469.5-mile drive, which took place over two days. Jaecoo claims the car still had plenty left in the tank (and battery), saying that the hybrid vehicle actually has a total range of 745 miles.

"I’ve wanted to take on the Three Peaks for years, and doing it as part of a Guinness World Records attempt with JAECOO added a whole new level of pressure,” said Shephard. “Three mountains, three nations and a whole lot of rain were brutal on the legs, so the time between the climbs really mattered. The JAECOO 7 SHS-P was so comfortable and quiet that I could genuinely rest and recover on the road.”

The Jaecoo’s journey was tracked by GPS, and its achievement was verified by Guinness World Records.

New England’s forests explode into a riot of colour (or color, if you prefer) as the days grow shorter. For leaf peepers there’s no better time to take to the road and enjoy the rich reds, abundant oranges and yellows of the canopy.

Here are five road trip routes to enjoy the best of this stunning season.

Squam Lake, New Hampshire

Film fans will recognise Squam Lake from the Henry Fond and Katherine Hepburn On Golden Pond where the ageing protagonists spend one last summer. It’s in the fall when the lake really comes alive though, reflecting the fantastic hues of the surrounding foliage in its calm waters. US Route 3 will take you to Holderness at the western tip of the lake, and then you can follow the wending 113 east via Sandwich to Tamworth. Make a pit stop for a tipple at Tamworth Distilling or take in a show at the 1931 Barnstormers Theater at this charming town at the base of the White Mountains.

Mount Washington, New Hampshire

Just 25 miles north you’ll find Glen and beyond that the entry to the Mount Washington Auto Road, one of the highest in the entire United States. It’s a relatively short seven miles to the top of the road, but you’ll climb to more than 4,600 feet along the way, ascending through the vibrant colours to beyond the tree line in a serious of switchbacks.

Kancamagus Highway, New Hampshire

Between the ski towns of Conway and Lincoln lies US 112, the Kancamagus Highway. Known by the locals as “The Kanc” it’s a steep climb to a peak of 2,500 feet through lush forest in a kaleidoscope of colours.

Green Mountains, Vermont

Moving to Vermont the college town of Middlebury is your starting point for a wonderful winding drive across the Green Mountains, which, at this time of year will be more orange and red than green. As US 125 zig-zags its way through the forest Rochester it’s worth taking a small detour to picturesque Texas Falls.

Litchfield Hills, Connecticut

Head south on US 44 from Salisbury and on to the 112 and as you pass through the dense forest and assorted smart little villages you’d never guess that the area is something of a Hollywood hideaway: Meryl Streep, Dustin Hoffman and Kevin Bacon have homes nearby. If the leisurely pace of leaf peeping has you yearning for speed then stop by Lime Rock Park to watch some racing or take to the track yourself, before joining US 7 south to the town of Cornwall and a final photo stop on its covered bridge that dates to 1841.

The picture postcard peninsula of Cape Point is not, as many people believe, the southern most point of Africa.

That accolade goes to Cape Agulhas, which has been verified as the geographic southern tip of Africa, a full 55km further south than Cape Point. This significant outcrop is also recognised as the dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian oceans. Incidentally, Agulhas is taken from the Portuguese word for needle, as all compass needles point due north from this point.

It is in the depth of the South African winter, that we set off to drive as far south in Africa as one can. The Mrs and I need an escape, which conveniently coincides with a winter accommodation special being offered by our national parks service.  

The trip to Agulhas takes about three hours from Cape Town and about half the journey takes place on the N2 national road, which can get quite clogged at the start of a weekend. The other half of the journey uses regional roads that lazily wind over verdant hillsides, punctuated by farming communities at Caledon, Napier and Bredasdorp. There are alternative routes, depending on how much time you have on your hands, which will allow you to stop in places such as Stanford and Elim, or perhaps a quick detour to Arniston, another quaint coastal town.

 If you are making a beeline for Agulhas, the very last ‘town’ you pass through is Struisbaai, which is where you’d want to shop if you are planning on staying at one of the many self-catering options in the area. The town’s most famous resident is Parrie the Stingray a 2,1-metre wide 350 kg short-tail stingray. Parrie has been a daily visitor to the harbour for about 30 years where he can be hand-fed by the locals. 

Cape Agulhas is a short drive down the road. Incidentally, it has its own little village called L’Agulhas, easily spotted by the second oldest lighthouse in South Africa that warns ships of the dangers the rocky coastline can dish up. Although a string of wrecks in the area will attest that the warnings often go unheeded.

L’Agulhas is home to the Southern Most Pub in Africa, which we visited to share a drink with the locals, the Southern Most Bakery in Africa, the Southern Most Real Estate Agent in... you get the idea. 

Finally, we arrive at the place from which all of Africa is North. Cape Agulhas is heralded by a rather small sign and an unpaved road. The exact spot has a cairn denoting its geographical significance. There is also a massive metal map of Africa pointing due South, highlighting significant mountainous areas.

There isn’t much else to do, but we take our time there, enjoying the solitude and incredible views and snapping too many pics. Leave this spot due South and the next piece of land you hit is Antarctica.

As we are staying close by at Agulhas National Park, the southernmost National Park in Africa, we can’t resist stopping by a few more times over the course of the weekend. Agulhas National Park is a hidden gem. There are just a few self-catering units, so few that we only see one other couple the entire weekend. In fact, the park can only be accessed by overnight visitors. There are long beaches and many natural pools, as well as its own hiking trail.

Cape Point may get all the headlines, but if you truly want to go as far South as land will allow, then set your compass for Cape Agulhas.

Words & Photography Sudhir “Banzai” Matai Twitter | Instagram

ROADBOOK

CLASS: Land’s End

NAME: Cape Agulhas

ROUTE: Cape Agulhas

COUNTRY: South Africa

A craggy coastline and unfamiliar accents make this Newfoundland drive feel a world away from Canada.

All it takes is a few words to gather why it’s called the Irish Loop. Listen to the lilting brogue of a Newfoundlander, look out over the wild Atlantic coast and you could be transported to the West Coast of Ireland.

The Loop starts and finishes in St John’s, the capital, which was first settled back in the 1600s. For a small city it has played a huge part in human history, as it was on Signal Hill where Guglielmo Marconi received his first transatlantic wireless communication on December 2nd, 1901.

Follow the coast south on NL10 via Cape Spear, the most easterly point in North America, through rolling farmland and you’ll reach Bay Bulls, where, in the spring and early summer months you can stop to spot whales in amongst the icebergs that float by.

Carry on to La Manche Provincial Park for another pit stop to explore its waterfalls, wildlife and the long-abandoned settlement from which the park gets its name. Along the way are evocative names kuje Burnt Cove and Devil’s Kitchen where it’s easy to picture English pirates such as Peter Easton and Bartholomew Roberts and their crews hiding from the Royal Navy. Later, during the Prohibition era of the 1920s and 1930s smugglers would transport liquor from Newfoundland to their parched neighbours across the border in the USA.

At Ferryland you’ll find a perfect photo opportunity at the lighthouse, where you can also tuck in to one of the most scenic meals you’ll ever eat, with a picnic prepared just for you.

The road follows the coast as best it can, looping west to Trespassey and then north to Riverhead, and on back to St John’s. In total there’s more than 10,000 miles of coastline, from sheltered bays to near-nordic fjords. Colourful boxy homes, known as saltbox houses, scatter the coast, running down to the coves where cod fishermen once docked their boats.These days the main industry is tourism.

The winters are harsh here on the edge of the Atlantic and road suffers can suffer accordingly, with potholes and ruptures aplenty, putting any car’s suspension to the test. It’s route not to be hurried, partly for comfort, partly so that you can soak it all in.

Words Nik Berg‍ ‍Instagram
Photography Shutterstock

ROADBOOK

CLASS: Coastal Cruise

NAME: The Irish Loop

ROUTE: St John’S to St John’S

COUNTRY: Canada

Distance: 213 Miles

Globetrotting father and son Phil and Will Churchill are one stage closer to finishing their round-the-world drive in an 2005 Aston Martin V8 Vantage after crossing India.

The drive didn’t get off to a great start after their Aston Martin was held in customs for a week, and meaning they had to alter their planned route and skip Nepal. Instead the duo left the port of Kolkata, heading north west.

The 2,000-mile drive took them through Durgapur, Gaya, Varanasi and Agra to Delhi, before heading south-westerly through Jaipur, Udaipur and Vadodara, and finally Mumbai. Along the way, the Churchills experienced the Ganga Aarti ceremony on the banks of the Ganges in Varanasi, visited the Agra Fort and Taj Mahal, and Jaipur’s Amber Palace. Phil and Will were also interviewed by Top Gear India en route.

The Vantage World Tour has now covered 23,500 miles in 17 countries and raised more than £37,000 for the Campaign Against Living Miserably (CALM), a charity dedicated to combating suicide, recognised as the largest killer of men under 50 in the UK. Supporters can learn more at www.thecalmzone.net and contribute towards their fundraising at www.justgiving.com/vantageworldtour.

Next up will be the challenge of the Middle East, with exact timings yet to be decided due to the ongoing troubles in the region.

The impact of Snowdonia’s popularity has led to soul searching, congestion and car clamping, but, if you know where to take a turn off the beaten track, contemplative touring can still be had.

If you know, you know, and lucky for you, I do. As a frequent visitor to Eryri, or Snowdonia, I’ve witnessed it become a victim of its own beauty in recent years. Almost four million people visit annually, and around 98% of those arrive by car. Problems parking at beauty spots, tailbacks through itsy-bitsy towns and camper vans causing chaos; the headlines about the hordes are disheartening. Don’t let them put you off. There are still lonely roads to be driven, if you know where to turn off.

One of my favourites is a half-marathon stretch from Lake Bala to the village of Bronaber. A skinny route with wide open vistas, it necessitates the need to slow down. Not least because farmers’ gates interrupt progress. Their practical purpose is to prevent sheep from escaping – follow the countryside code and leave them closed as you found them – and see it as a silver lining rather than inconvenience. Stopping and hopping out at semi-regular intervals means you really do take time to admire the scenery en route. It's about an hour from dot to dot, if you factor in photo stops too.

Setting a course through the Arenig mountains, the driving is gentle and more often than not, uninterrupted. Save, for the four-legged fluffy locals. This is their patch, so watch out, they like to meander in and out of the road. My recommendation is to travel in a westerly direction, leaving Lake Bala via the A494 and following a sign towards Trawsfynydd. Continue on for a gradual climb, framed first by bracken and then by trees, eventually opening up to signature Snowdonia views. Don’t look at a map, ponder which of the peaks it is you can see in the distance. 

Undulating and increasingly curvaceous, this lesser-known route is easy going. Reaching a summit and further solitude via a series of mellow zigs and zags, you’ll cross suspension-rattling cattle grids and rivers on this 13-mile jaunt. Pause at the stone bridge that arches prettily over the peaty Afon Gain for a picturesque pic. Take the right turn here, and follow the water’s course. Yes, you’ll reach a dead end, but its lonesome views warrant the detour. Turn round and enjoy the last ten minutes before rejoining the Eryri rat race at the A470 junction. For a traditional petrol station experience, circle back to Bala. Located at the western end of the high street, Gulf has been there for over forty years and continues to offer kerbside attended service. Pull up, let someone else do the pumping, pay, and then proceed to your route.

Words & Photography Charlotte Vowden Instagram

ROADBOOK

CLASS: Steady and scenic

NAME: Secret SNowdonia

ROUTE: Lake Bala to Bronaber

COUNTRY: Wales

Distance: 23 Miles

An electric VW ID. Buzz van has entered the record books after travelling 99,676 km and visiting 92 countries.

The journey took driver Rainer Zietlow 445 days from leaving Hanover, Germany to returning again and saw him granted the award for "Most countries visited in a continuous journey by a battery powered electric vehicle" by Guinness World Records.

Zietlow left the factory where his ID.Buzz was built in summer 2025 and journeyed across six continents. His route took in major cities, deserts and mountain ranges, and required more than 300 charging cycles. Despite covering this vast distance the van’s battery was tested and still maintained 95.75 per cent of its capacity at the end of the trip.

Charging wasn’t always easy, but Zietlow is convinced that long-distance EV travel is the future. “In parts of Africa there is virtually no charging infrastructure – in countries such as Zambia or Tanzania there was simply nothing available, so I charged at national substations under supervision. South Africa, Morocco and Rwanda, by contrast, already work well. In Rwanda I once drove to an airport at an altitude of 2,000 metres and suddenly found myself in front of a whole row of ID. Buzz being used as shuttle taxis – that was almost surreal. Other regions have caught up enormously: in Saudi Arabia there were not many charging stations three years ago, today it is almost as good there as in Germany. South America, above all Brazil and Chile, is also making very strong progress, and China is in a league of its own anyway – there, electric mobility is part of everyday life. The bottom line: it is increasing worldwide, and in many regions it is being built very quickly."

High in the hills above the Mediterranean is a road that’s seen its share of cinematic stunts.

The remarkable Route de Gentelly is where Pierce Brosnan as 007 in his Aston Martin DB5 duels Famke Jannsen’s Xenia Onatopp in her Ferrari F355 in Goldeneye and where Jean Reno in a Mercedes S-Class chases down a Peugeot 405 and Citroen Xantia while Robert de Niro launches a rocket from its sunroof in Ronin.

The Ronin chase begins in Nice, but it’s the medieval walled village of Vence, some 20 miles further inland, where the real fun starts. As soon as you leave Vence you’re climbing. The going is gentle to begin with but soon becomes ever more curvaceous as you gain altitude.

Switchback sequences start coming thick and fast and you won’t be surprised to know that this section of the road up to Col de Vence is a rallying regular. There’s precious little room for sliding sideways though and just a low concrete wall to protect you from tumbling down should a mistake be made.

There’s some 16 miles of terrific turns until you reach the village of Gréolières. Only around 400 people live here, but there are still four rather nice restaurants to choose from should you fancy calling “cut” for a while.

Next, it’s another 10 miles of bend after bend, rising higher and higher until you reach the end of the road at Gréolières-les-Neiges. As the name suggests it’s a small ski resort, usually open between December and March each year.

At this point all that’s left is to turn around and enjoy the run down again. For once, it’s a sequel that’s every bit as exciting as the original.

Words Nik Berg‍ ‍Instagram
Photography Shutterstock

ROADBOOK

CLASS: Mountain PASS

NAME: Route de Gentelly

ROUTE: Vence to Gréolières-les-Neiges

COUNTRY: France

Distance: 27 Miles

An Ariel Nomad has just completed a 1,700-mile desert adventure and lived up to its moniker.

The car, driven by loyal Ariel customers Gavin Kirby and Kevin Henderson, took part in the 2026 Morocco Desert Challenge. The eight-day driving adventure started in Ouarzazate, south of the Atlas Mountains and headed through the dunes to Saïdia on the Mediterranean coast.

“The Morocco Desert Challenge lives up to its name,” says Kirby. “The desert tests both machine and driver relentlessly for eight days and many thousands of kilometres, but despite everything it threw at us, the Nomad brought us back to camp every night. There were some sections of the course that, had we come across them under different circumstances, we would have turned around and found a different route. However, to complete the MDC, we either tackled what was in front of us or admit defeat. Not only did the Nomad get us through these sections, but it tackled them with style and grace. Having both owned Nomads for some years before the event, Kev and I found a whole new level of respect for what the Nomad is actually capable of. Completing the event is something we're immensely proud of."

To ready the car for the gruelling rally Ariel upgraded the cars’s suspension, packed a supply of spare parts and dispatched a mechanic to support the duo. “What's particularly satisfying is that the car demonstrated exactly the qualities we value most at Ariel: capability, reliability, and adaptability,” adds Ariel Managing Director Henry Siebert-Saunders. “The fact it completed the event with only routine maintenance required is a testament to both the strength of the underlying Nomad platform and the commitment of everyone involved."

Top Gear meets Top Gun in the Mach Loop of the Welsh Valleys.

The military jets that practice low-level flying in between the mountains are fast, but the idea that the Mach Loop gets its name from supersonic speeds is a misnomer. In fact this circular route is named after the town of Machynlleth on the edge of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park.

The market town is steeped in history, known as the “ancient capital of Wales” and was home to the Welsh Parliament in the early 1400s. For a town of just 2,000 people it punches above its weight culturally, hosting an annual comedy festival, and being home to MoMA Wales. It’s even got its own Hollywood-like sign in the hills.

For aviation enthusiasts, however, it’s the geography that’s more appealing. With a bit of a scramble up the hillside it’s possible to actually look down on the Typhoons, Hawks and F-35s that roar through the valley below.

There are several key vantage points on this route, so pack your driving shoes and your hiking boots, and be prepared for a wait. The RAF and USAF don’t publish their training timetable for obvious reasons, so you never know what you’ll see. Just don’t try at weekends or bank holidays when the flyers stay grounded.

Your first opportunity comes just a few miles north of Machynlleth on the A487, after an engaging, mostly tree-lined drive to the Corris Craft Centre. Here, on the valley floor, the aircraft pass overhead, and you need never leave the car park – unless, of course, you want to try your hand at woodworking or pottery, or stop for sustenance at the cafe.

Now you’ve got a choice: you can bank right towards the Corris Corner viewing spot or stay on the A487 to access The Bwich, Cad West and Cad East viewpoints. The half-mile climb to Corris Corner is described by the experts at machloop.co.uk as “Strenuous” but rewards you with sights of jets turning at full tilt. Alternatively, if you continue on the main road you’ll soon find yourself at the most popular car park on the loop. It’s on the straightest section of the A487 so easy enough to spot. Head up to The Bwich on a steady half-mile climb to 400 feet for “the most iconic” views, or take a more challenging hike to Cad West (half a mile and 300 feet) or Cad East (one mile and 400 feet). Whichever route you take you’ll be above the aeronautical action.

When you’ve had your fill of flybys get back on the A487 north. A stop at the award-winning Cross Foxes Inn is highly recommended and you can even stay overnight before heading east on the scenic A470, then picking up the A489 to complete the loop in Machynlleth. These are all great roads, so even if you fail to see Maverick in motion you’ll have had a dynamic drive.

Words Nik Berg‍ ‍Instagram
Photography Shutterstock

ROADBOOK

CLASS: FLy DRIVE

NAME: The Mach LooP

ROUTE: Machynlleth to Machynlleth

COUNTRY: Wales

Distance: 38 Miles

If you’re looking for an electric car to cover some major mileage then the new Škoda Peaq might just be the ticket.

Two Škoda employees have just driven the seven-seat SUV 935 km (586 miles) without stopping to charge. That beats its official homologated range by almost 45 per cent, and was achieved with the help of some seriously smooth driving, together with clear roads and weather.

While many EV advocates believe that maximising regenerative braking is the best way to extend driving range the Škoda team said that maintaining a constant speed, avoiding hard acceleration and braking or coming to complete stop are crucial to eking out the most miles.

“Our goal was to demonstrate the capabilities of the technology at the very limit of its potential. To achieve the maximum possible range, we carefully selected the most suitable route and, naturally, an appropriate driving style,” says Jakub Krs. When he is not driving the Peaq on record-range attempts, he serves as Chief Battery Officer for the model. “An average user would probably never drive the car this way. Instead, they would make full use of the Peaq’s dynamic performance, onboard infotainment and comfort features,” adds fellow driver Marek Jež, who is responsible for the Peaq programme as Project Leader. 

The Škoda’s route took the hypermiling drivers from the Mladá Boleslav factory, where the Peaq is built, into Germany and on to Zandvoort in the Netherlands. By the time they reached their destination the 91 kWh battery pack had recorded an energy consumption figure of 9.2 kWh/100 km (6.8 miles/kWh) and set a new Czech record.

Most mums-to-be book a babymoon for pampering to a soundtrack of pan pipes, posh suppers and putting their feet up in a fluffy robe, but not Charlotte Vowden.

Well into my eighth month of pregnancy, it was five days before Christmas when we set up camp in north Wales. Checking into our poly-cotton penthouse suite, all 29.4 sq ft of it atop an INEOS Grenadier, we chose to overnight at the foot of Tryfan; a jagged and instantly recognisable mountain in the Ogwen Valley. How’s that for terrace views?

To get there we’d followed the A5 from Shrewsbury, a road that runs out at the ferry port of Holyhead. The stretch from Capel Curig, with the Carneddau and Glyderau ranges in view, was particularly beautiful in the copper-toned winter sun. In fair weather, peaks can be a dependable compass.

Providing a sturdy base for our overnight perch, the 3.5-tonne Grenadier was loaded to the gunnels. With more than 2,000 litres of lugging capacity, filling the Trailmaster Edition Station Wagon was quite the feat for two people, plus bump. Our essentials included a car seat for the unborn bairn, just in case their arrival caught us out.

Allowing my better half to do the heavy lifting, i.e. deploy the tent in the fading light, I kept myself busy with finishing touches. Festooned with fairy lights, our setup looked suitably festive. At home, or out in the Welsh wilds, nesting is nesting. Right?

Planning a one pan cook up so the elements of our meal would slip into a bun without fuss, we had no need for forks or linen napkins. A feast we could hold in our hands and a scrap of kitchen roll would suffice. If only we’d packed the bottled-gas… 

The elevated patty I’d curated comprised a filling of roast turkey, pigs in blankets and stuffing, accompanied by cheese and cranberry sauce. But with our ride immobilised and supply shops long since shut, it would take a Christmas miracle to replace what we’d left behind. A Hallmark movie life is not.  

So, we took the menu back to basics. De-escalating dinner to a cheese roll that required no cooking, we did attempt to melt butter in the warm air that flowed from the vents on the Grenadier’s dashboard.

Bellies full, we prised our posteriors away from the heated seats and retired to the first floor. With a Tupperware of snacks I must add. You never know when pregnancy cravings might strike. First though, there was the matter of the baby pressing on my bladder to address. While having a wild wee, I pondered the darkness around us. It possessed an eerie beauty. The mystery of what, or who, might be out there was amplified by a dot of light in the distance. The gentle flutters of our baby in my belly was a reminder that we really weren’t alone.

Lacking a hoist, I navigated the ladder carefully, ensuring a sturdy footing on each rung. Once the ascent was complete, I flung the container of treats across the threshold before executing a sort of commando roll through the rain canopy to deposit myself inside.

With an insulated polyfoam mattress, blackout canvas and trio of windows – one above the head for gazing at the heavens – the iKamper 3.0 was the outdoor equivalent of a five star hotel. Except you bring your own bedding and torches. A world map on the far wall provided a focal point for us to fantasise about far flung adventures, and my husband would be a dutiful butler, night porter and concierge.

Over six foot up, we were out of reach of roaming beasts. Most notably, the native sheep. We were however, vulnerable to the whims of the weather. Thoughts of trying to get some kip downstairs crept in around midnight, when the 40mph winds forecast arrived. Pummelling our fabric bolt hole, the gusts maintained their gusto well into the early hours. My brain was completely wired.

Running through irrational worst case scenarios while my husband snored lightly beside me – what if the wind rips us from the roof of the Grenadier?! – I raided the treat tub for comfort. Flapjacks and chocolate are my go-to it’s going to be OK foods. Still, I didn’t yearn for a plushy bedroom with en suite. Pregnancy insomnia meant that a decent night’s sleep was a thing of the past, and for me being in such close proximity to nature is more revitalising than a soak in a hot bath. You can forget spritzing a load of lavender spray in the air too.

You see, if you see winter as a season to embrace, it really is an opportunity. Quieter roads, quieter places. I viewed pregnancy that way too. Rather than chase the sunshine to another country or hibernate, I sought outdoor intrepidness, fresh air and big skies; a bit of a challenge for our last hurrah before becoming parents. That just so happened to take place in the darkest month of the year.

Unzipping our front door in the morning, a chill nipped at the end of my nose. That beats any bougie holistic therapy in my book. Languishing the moment, I wondered, how long would it be before we’d be pitching up somewhere as a three? Daydreaming about our maiden voyage – where would it be? – I gazed at the leaden mist that clung to Tryfan.

Without means to heat water or cook breakfast, we packed away our sleeping bags and tucked away the tent. With the locks and latches securely fastened, we hit the road, and although we could travel safely at over 60mph with the iKamper mounted to the roof, we thought it unwisely to do so. Take it slowly and you take more of your whereabouts in.

We spent days exploring the byways of north Wales; the hum and vibration of the trail soothing our little one en route. It’s said that babies respond to sounds and vibrations in the womb, so the come-hithering growl of the diesel B57 engine didn’t fall on deaf ears.

Capable of serious off-roading, we didn’t use the Grenadier to its fullest potential this time round, but if we’d had need to make a sudden dash to the hospital, it would have got us there come hell or high water – a max depth of 0.8m to be precise. Had it required a cross-country clamber, it could have hauled itself up near-vertical rough-stuff terrain. Plus, because it’s built like a brick, ahem, house, it has the reassuring stature of a leviathan god. Which in turn made me feel incredibly safe.

Part bonkers, part brave, but utterly brilliant, I’d recommend a road-cum-rooftop camping trip for anyone on the cusp of becoming a parent. Make the most of the intimacy that a two-person tent enforces while you can. 

Words & Photography Charlotte Vowden Instagram

Top tips for rooftop tenting when you’re pregnant

• Climb with caution Morning dew, frost or rain drops will make the ladder a slip hazard. Add grip tape to the rungs for careful measure. 

• Take snacks to bed Pregnancy cravings, nuff said.

• Take heed of the forecast Carrying a baby is endurance enough. Reschedule if the conditions are set to be extreme.

• Set up camp near the loos Got the luxury of a toilet block? Save yourself the waddle and park as close as you can. Or, pack a sheewee and save the trip.

• Delegate Appoint someone else for the slog of assembly and disassembly; you’re doing your bit by growing a human.

• Zip up, real tight Don’t risk free-falling out of the tent, the bouncing baby bit comes after they’re born.

It’s taken four years, but finally the VW ID. Buzz has an official California camper edition.

The new ID. California Cruise comes in regular and long-wheelbase editions, and the key feature is a folding bed that’s a decent 1.2m wide and 2m in length. The mattress is designed to sit on top of the folded rear seats, so it’s not a ‘rock’n’roll’ unit, as seen in many VW conversions.

Neither does the California Cruise come with a kitchen or washing facilities, although, as it’s completely electric, its vehicle-to-load function means you can power a coolbox, kettle or even an air-fryer to feed hungry campers.

Only two will be able to sleep inside, but they should get a good night’s Zs in as there are ventilation grilles and blackout covers for all the windows, with special storage spaces inside to keep them when not in use. There’s also a California mode for the heating and air conditioning so it can be used when the car isn’t driving. VW also offers a camping table and chairs that slot in with the mattress so you can enjoy the outdoors.

The ID. California Cruise is available with a 79 kWh or 86 kWh battery with a maximum range of 275-or-so miles if you opt for the bigger pack. It can recharge at up to 200 kW as well, so long distance road trips are a viable option.

Three kids, one day skiving off school in Chicago, and a (fake) Ferrari made Ferris Bueller’s Day off one of the biggest movies of 1986, and, my personal favourite film of all time.

Maybe it’s because I saw it while on holiday in America, or maybe it’s just that no teenage boy could ever disagree with Cameron when he declares “Ferris Bueller, You’re My Hero.”

That just so happens to be the title of a new book by über fan Jason Klamm, who interviewed literally hundreds of people involved in the filming, from stars Matthew Broderick and Alan Ruck to set designers, producers, hair and makeup and even the extras at Shermer High School. It’s a great read for Ferris fans and reveals all manner of insights from John Hughes’ improv-heavy direction to the film’s key locations 

The Bueller House, where Ferris puts on “One of the worst performance of my career,” to convince his parents that he’s too sick for school, was actually in California, but the school and surroundings of Shermer were shot in Northbrook, Illinois.

It was here that Hughes grew up, and where he also set The Breakfast Club, Weird Science, Sixteen Candles,Pretty In Pink and more. The town was previously known as Shermerville, so there are no prizes for guessing where Hughes got his inspiration.

Shermer High’s exterior is Glenbrook North High School on 2300 Shermer Road, and seeing as it’s where Ferris picks up Sloane it seems like an appropriate place to start. Nearby, at 1201 Cedar Lane there’s a tribute to the filmmaker that put Northbrook on the map, with a John Hughes Memorial Bench. Look northwest and you’ll see the water tower (sadly no longer daubed with Save Ferris) 

Ferris’s mom’s office can be found in Chestnut Court, Winnetka, a short drive east. It’s here where she first speaks to school principal Ed Rooney who tells her Ferris has been absent “Nine times!”. It’s also in the Winnetka area that many of the yards Ferris races through on his mad dash home can be found.

At 370 Beech Street, Highland Park is Cameron’s house. “The place is like a museum. It's very beautiful and very cold, and you're not allowed to touch anything,” says Ferris. Hughes and the film crew came across the home, real name The Ben Rose House, quite by chance, having originally scripted that Cameron would send his father’s Porsche into the depths of Lake Michigan. When Hughes saw the Rose House and its amazing glass and steel Pavillion, housing its owner’s collection of classic Ferraris, the movie’s most memorable scene was re-written.

In the film’s timeline, that comes later, after the trio has driven into Chicago and left the car with the “Professional what?” at A-1 EZ OK Park – in reality Washington Madison Wells Self Park, at 172 West Madison Street. It’s a half hour drive south on I94, where you may be tempted to throw your arms in the air as you listen to Beat City by the Flowerpot Men. It may also be hard to resist playing the theme from Star Wars and attempting to copy stuntman Rick LeFevour who launches the Ferrari (actually a replica made by Modena Designs) on Clark Street using a special kicker ramp.

Chez Quis, where Ferris declares himself “the sausage king of Chicago” is at 22 W. Schiller Street. Don’t expect to go inside and eat pancreas, though, as it’s a private home. The next stop is Wrigley Field, home to the Chicago Cubs baseball team, where if you time it right you can take in a game and chant “Hey batter batter! Swing batter!”

Cameron, Ferris and Sloane head to the Sears Tower (now the Willis Tower at 233 South Wacker Drive. At the time of filming, it was the tallest building in the world. “The city looks so peaceful from up here,” says Sloane. “Anything is peaceful from 1,353 feet,” replies Ferris. You can find out for yourself on the Skydeck.

The trading floor at the Board of Trade is no longer a sea of arm-waving capitalists, but does have a museum so you can see how money was made back in the day.

At the Art Institute of Chicago the curators have put together a self-guided Be Like Ferris Bueller tour that takes in the Chagall, Rodin, Pollock artworks that the trio enjoy. Take extra time for Georges Seurat’s A Sunday on La Grande Jatte where Cameron gets totally absorbed in the painting’s Pointilism. “The closer [Cameron] looks at the child, the less he sees. I think he fears that the more you look at him, the less you see,” noted Hughes.

It’s at Dearborn and Adams Streets where Ferris hijacks a float at the Von Steuben Day German-American heritage parade, first singing Danke Schein and then launching into Twist and Shout for Cameron, “a young man who doesn't think he's seen anything good today.”

To complete the day the fastest way back to Shermer (Northbrook) is on the I90 and I94. Just don’t try to drive it in reverse.

Words Nik Berg‍ ‍Instagram

ROADBOOK

CLASS: MOVIE MAGIC

NAME: The End of the ROad for 007

ROUTE: Northbrook to Chicago

COUNTRY: USA

Distance: 80 Miles

A new study by neuroscientists has discovered a “sweet spot” that influences the sense of thrill drivers get when behind the wheel.

The research, commissioned by Castrol and conducted by neuroscience company Brainbox, reveals that driving thrill comes from the convergence of three factors in an elevated state: visceral (intense state of mental and physical stimulation), intellectual (how engaged the mind is on the given task) and emotional (identifying the balance of excitement versus fear).

If any of these factors exceed a level that’s manageable then the driver becomes overwhelmed and thrill turns to fear. Surprisingly speed isn’t necessarily a key factor in driving thrill, say the scientists. “Beyond any other factor, a sense of controlled immersion is essential for creating the thrill of driving. Notably, while speed is one of multiple contributory factors that heighten the sense of thrill, it is certainly not a primary determinant.”

To discover just what makes driving thrilling the boffins measured, brain waves, heart rate, skin response and eye tracking, as a group of test subjects took to the wheel at PalmerSport in Bedfordshire. They tackled a range of different cars and disciplines from slow off-roading, to karting, driving a McLaren Artura GT4 and the PalmerSport JPLM open race car. They also rode shotgun with a pro driver.

Although the data revealed that the most “thrilling” experience was driving the McLaren, the passenger ride with a professional racer was actually less thrilling than karting and off-roading, despite the speeds being higher.

“No single measurement defines thrill, rather it is where they are heightened and converge: the individual is experiencing a state of elevated neurophysiological arousal, they perceive that they are fully in control of the vehicle, and they are immersed in the experience both cognitively and emotionally,” says Dan Phillips, Co-founder & Director at Brainbox. “Thrill isn’t about speed, it’s about focus. The data shows real thrill as the moment a driver locks in completely, and it can be seen across the brain, heart and eyes.”

Vincent Panel, Head of Product & Communications for Europe at Castrol says: “We commissioned this study to develop unique insights into what the driver feels when behind the wheel: the thrill, the control, the connection. Crucially, we identified that you don’t need a supercar to experience driving thrill; you can experience almost the same sense of immersive control without high speeds, from a visit to a local karting track or a drive along one of your favourite roads. This study examines how that sense of thrill can be found in every driver.”