This week, the foothills of misty Mount Meru in Arusha are the location for a conversation that bridges a whistle-stop safari tour of Tanzania’s Northern Circuit with young African Gen Zs, a tourism trade fair, and a final twist to the dramatic night sounds from western Uganda. In Episode 26, I have a front row seat to the intense reality of human-wildlife conflict, not forgetting an aerial view of Africa’s big cats!

• How does the busy safari circuit of Northern Tanzania compare to Uganda’s “same but different” safari itineraries?
• What animals did our pilot spot beneath us on our hot air balloon safari over Tarangire National Park?
• Why are local farmers like John “German” and Concorde beating their drums in their fields at one o’clock in the morning?
• How does a parrot monitoring project on the edge of Kibale Forest tie into our upcoming conversation with the World Parrot Trust?

Join me, Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu, as I get into an argument with the hadada ibis and recount the fun of working with an international team of influencers at the Karibu KiliFair trade show. And the debate continues: was episode 25’s forest trespasser really innocent (or was he up to no good?) 

Welcome to my world!

Tune in to the award-winning East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus of a tropical rainforest, gorilla tracking adventures and the sound of waves lapping on an Indian Ocean beach. Join me on my morning nature walks (mind we don’t slip in an elephant pothole!) and listen into illuminating chats with conservationists and intrepid travellers in Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania and Rwanda.

Sign up to my occassional newsletter

Visit www.eastafricatravelpodcast.com for detailed transcripts.

Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram, Facebook and LinkedIn.

Check out this episode!

The post Ep. 26 Arguing with an ibis (and a Tanzanian teaser) appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

The Muzungu writes: I often receive questions from potential visitors to Uganda. Scroll down for an email exchange I had with David in the United States following a minor, short-lived Ebola outbreak in 2025. I leave this post here for historical purposes because most of my advice is still relevant.

Of course Ebola is a worry. But are we worried about the outbreak in the DRC? No we are not. Uganda has decades of expertise in managing Ebola and other tropical diseases.

Travel enquiry from an American visitor to Uganda

“I wanted to travel to Uganda soon, but the State Department says that because of ebola, we should reconsider travel to Uganda. Additionally, that if we do travel, we should expect flights to be cancelled. How is the situation? Have you heard of any flight cancellations from Uganda to the U.S because of ebola? Thank you.”

The Muzungu replies:

“There is no reason why you should alter your travel plans. It’s most likely that you will go directly from Entebbe Airport to the National Parks and there are no reported cases in any of those areas.

When there is an outbreak, we have detailed contact tracing in place, based on decades of experience managing disease. World Health Organization, CDC (Center for Disease Control) and others are part of that process.

Majority of people continue to travel as normal. A smaller number cancel trips and a few postpone but note that Government advisories are always extremely cautious (often excessively so in the view of most us living in this corner of the world). We are pretty disturbed by how ‘over the top’ the US usually react, based on absolute worst case scenarios.

If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I answer questions all the time from potential travelers.”


Dear Charlotte

Thank you so much for your detailed and informative response. I couldn’t have asked for anything more. I was really scared after reading from the State Department and the CDC. Last thing you want is to be labelled as “an ebola carrier.”

If you say it is safe to go from the airport to the national parks, then I will talk to my friends so we can go from there. I hope you don’t mind if I share this email with my group with whom I am meant to travel. I want them to see it for themselves. They were all freaked out!

Thx again for the help Charlotte.

The Muzungu writes:

The last thing anyone wants to think about is Ebola, especially after the restrictions we endured during the pandemic. Ebola is a contact disease – unlike coronavirus which is airborne – hence Ebola is much easier to control, despite its potentially lethal nature.

I regularly update several blogs, the most important being Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED].

Safe travels! And don’t hesitate to message me if you need a little reassurance from a Ugandan resident like me.

The post A visitor asks: should we reconsider travel because of Ebola? [UPDATED] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Tropical diseases in Uganda

We praise the Pearl of Africa for her astounding biodiversity (so we shouldn’t be surprised that’s reflected in the bacteria and viruses too!)

That said, the country is quick to nip outbreaks in the bud: Ebola, Marburg and Zika are just a few that have hit the headlines over the years. Thankfully, Uganda has high level support from international medical agencies, such as the US Center for Disease Control, and my advice to travelers is: try not to worry about any of these (extremely rare) diseases.

Mandatory health declaration for all travellers entering or existing Uganda

MAY 2026: “Following the ongoing Ebola outbreak, the Uganda Ministry of Health has introduced a health declaration requirement for all travellers entering and exiting Uganda. Complete the online declaration form prior to travel via the link or QR code below:

Link to Uganda Ministry of Health traveller health declaration form May 2026

This is part of enhanced health surveillance measures at all points of entry and exit. Kindly ensure compliance to avoid delays during travel.”

Arrivals at Entebbe Airport

The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:

Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary

There’s a “negligible” risk of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda, however it is mandatory to show proof of vaccination (with one or two exceptions). A Yellow Fever vaccination is now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. Got a question? In “Ask the Travel Doc,” Dr Natalie Prevatt answers traveler FAQs about Yellow Fever.

Which diseases should I worry about if I’m travelling to Uganda?

Your biggest health concern should be How to avoid malaria. I’m not medically qualified but I have plenty of personal tips to share, based on my 15 years living in Uganda. You might also enjoy Uganda travel advice I ignored!

I’ve lived in Uganda for over 15 years. I have friends who are expert in travel and tropical health medicine and I regularly update health-related posts. In my opinion, the Ministry of Health’s X account is the best source for the latest health info in Uganda.

Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel or travel health-related questions.

The post Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

The East Africa Travel Podcast is my biggest project in a long time. We won an award for season 1! Tune in for the sounds of nature, inspiring conversations with award-winning travel writers and conservationists (and strictly positive vibes).

Read what people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast.

APRIL 2026. Season 2 is now live!

Coming to Uganda to work, volunteer or simply live?

Read Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats and Is Uganda safe? Yes it is (expats share their experiences about life in Uganda).

Looking for a tour operator in Uganda? Advice on tourist visas?

If you’re looking for travel inspiration, you’re in the right place!

I’ve been to almost every corner of Uganda, but sometimes you just want some basic travel advice:

• Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly! UPDATED OCTOBER 2025
• Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport UPDATED MAY 2026
• Guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa (Uganda Rwanda Kenya) UPDATED OCTOBER 2025
• Is Kenya really “visa free”? How to apply for the eTA (the Electronic Travel Authorisation that replaced Kenya’s tourist visa) UPDATED OCTOBER 2025
• Tips on travelling safely in Uganda: tour operators suspended (and my advice) PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 2025
• The Travel Directory lists registered tour operators, accommodation and things to do in Uganda
• I am an Expert Reviewer on SafariBookings, the largest online marketplace for African safari tours.

Going on safari?

• Low season discounts on gorilla tracking permits plus an update on the Uganda Wildlife Authority fees (which will be effective from July 2026). PUBLISHED FEBRUARY 2026
• Guide to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s fees (2024 – 2026). is the complete price list or ‘conservation tariff’ for all National Parks, Wildlife Reserves, gorilla permits, game drives, mountain climbing and more. The new tariff will start in July 2026.
• Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas a multi-page guide
• Uganda’s National Parks a page on each of the country’s ten National Parks

I regularly travel around Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania. I have visited – and researched – a long list of places that don’t always make it onto Diary of a Muzungu, since I also write for guidebooks, lodges, tourism boards and tour operators. If you don’t find the info you need here, feel free to contact me directly.

Who is Diary of a Muzungu?

If you really want to get to know me, and what I’m doing in Uganda, listen to my podcast! All recorded by me on location. Start with episodes 1 and 2.

You can also read a bit About me, some Interviews and my Portfolio of writing for other publications. Do get in touch!

Random Uganda that will make you smile

Diary of a Muzungu comprises 100s of personal stories, travel reviews, wildlife encounters (and dating disasters!) Here are a few favourites.

• What makes the Pearl of Africa so special? Read the ever-popular 50 reasons why I love Uganda (with over 120,000 page views)
• Pant hoots and knuckle spins. Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest on the doorstep of my forest home
• Are Muzungus all rich? Apparently!
• Ants in my pants insects EEEEH!
• How to feed a baby elephant … cute! but the truth is shocking
• Were Toto right about Africa? remember that song?
• My local name is Nagawa but what does it mean? And how did I get this charming name? Read Bwindi – eye to eye with my totem
• Downtown dreadlocks – the muzungu’s blind date
• Grateful every day or “how nature saved me” is dedicated to my home at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest. Life at Sunbird Hill inspired me to launch the podcast (season 2 loading…)
• Do numbers mean anything? Observations from Karamoja an eye-opening few days in northeastern Uganda.

Want the latest news in your inbox? Then sign up to Diary of a Muzungu’s newsletter!

The post New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

KiliFair 2026 “East Africa’s leading tourism business fair” takes place in Arusha Tanzania

Billed as “East Africa’s leading tourism business fair,” in June 2026 the East African tourism industry and its promoters will gather in Arusha, Tanzania, the home for the jointly billed KARIBU KILIFAIR.

I’ve heard good feedback from Ugandan tourism industry friends about previous events and in 2023 I attended for the first time. In June 2026, the muzungu will be in Arusha too!

Over the past few years, I’ve noticed more Ugandan safari companies adding Tanzania to their itineraries. Until now, Ugandan safaris may have included Rwanda, or occasionally Kenya but Tanzania has been a rare inclusion. That’s another reason why this event is so appealing to me: Tanzania is reaching out to us.

What is KARIBU KILIFAIR?

KARIBU KILIFAIR is an international tourism fair that promotes companies based in the Kilimanjaro region, Tanzania, East Africa and Central Africa. Opportunities include fam trips, buyer lounge and press area. 500 international travel agents and buyers are expected to attend. At the weekend, the fair also attracts local people and their families and expats looking for entertainment and holiday offers.

I’ve been following the growth of this tourism business networking event with interest. How will Diary of a Muzungu make the journey from Kampala to Arusha – by bus? by plane? by ferry across Lake Victoria? – who knows quite how yet.

Are you interested in learning more about KARIBU KILIFAIR?

For travel trade, follow this link to pre-register.

For international trade visitors, you’re encouraged to register as a buyer to enjoy more benefits.

To exhibit at the expo or rent a stand, click here.

Here’s all the info you need to know!

KiliFair event dates

June 4 2026 – Exhibitors only (B2B networking)

June 5-7 2026 – Open to the public

KiliFair venue

Magereza Grounds, Arusha next to Arusha Airport and opposite UWC International School. Plenty of parking is available right near the fair entrance.

Email: info@kilifair.com

Hotline: +255 767 668 245

Sales department: +255 754 200 580

I never say no to a chance to chat about travel and tourism. I can’t wait to learn more about the Great Migration across the Serengeti, the Selous, Mount Kilimanjaro Africa’s highest peak, the Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Natron, Stonetown and the beaches of Zanzibar. I’ll be there with colleagues from Uganda, hoping – as always – to catch up with tourism friends from Tanzania, Kenya, Rwanda and West Africa too. In the meantime, read some of the Muzungu’s top reasons to visit Tanzania.

How well do you know Arusha? What are your top Tanzania travel tips?

The post Work in tourism? Let’s meet at KARIBU KILIFAIR in Tanzania! June 4-7 2026 appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

In episode 21 of the East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu, I’m at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale National Park, recording trumpeting elephants and reflecting on how the sounds of the Ugandan jungle have traveled from my home to yours – from the streets of Paris to the trains of Lisbon.

Listen to episode 21 here on Diary of a Muzungu: #21 The soundtrack of Uganda – from my jungle to your world. Leave a comment please 😉

Listen to episode 21 on Apple Podcasts. Follow, write a review – and add a 5/5 rating 😉

Listen to episode 21 on Spotify. Follow and comment 😉

In this episode:

• How Kibale’s giants outsmart the “elephant trench” and the local community where I live.
• Season one rewind: What listeners are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu. from my chats with Her Royal Highness the Nnaabagareka of Buganda Kingdom, anthropologist Professor Richard Wrangham, “self-confessed gorillaholic” Ian Redmond OBE and more inspiring guests.
• What’s coming up in Season Two: travel writers, tourism gurus, gorillas and more travel advice than you can throw a stick at!
• This is the first of season two’s 20 weekly episodes.

Did you hear we won an award for season one of the podcast?

The ATTA® for Action Awards celebrate those who are making travel in Africa more ethical, impactful and sustainable. Each category recognises innovation and leadership—whether in community uplift, zero-waste tourism, or storytelling. Learn more at awards.atta.travel. (What an honour to be associated with awards whose values are so close to my own heart).

What’s next for the East Africa Travel Podcast?

Season 2 will feature conversations and stories with:

• Diani Turtle Watch in Kenya
• A night in the manyatta with the Karamojong tribe of northeastern Uganda
• Ikechi Uko, tourism guru visiting Uganda from Nigeria
• Harriet Owalla, Kenyan travel journalist on location in Mombasa
• Rowan Martin of World Parrot Trust discussing the impact of the pet trade on wild birds

… as well as birdsong-filled forest walks, gorilla tracking in Nkuringo, Uganda with the Posho gorilla family; long-distance travel by bus, train and ferry from Kampala to the Kenyan coast, and who knows what else?

Welcome to my world!

Tune in for:

• The dawn chorus and morning nature walks
• Personal, well-researched travel tips from across Uganda and East Africa
• Inspiring conversations with nature lovers, trail-blazing conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, African tourism experts – and travelers like you and me 😉
• Stories, anecdotes (and strictly positive vibes)
• Got an idea for an episode? Get in touch with me!

Have you listened in yet? Would love to know what you think!

The post NOW LIVE! Welcome back to season two of the award-winning East Africa Travel Podcast appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know that I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, western Uganda, famous for its population of several hundred – often vocal – chimpanzees. (Did you know I can lie in bed hearing the chimps call?)

UPDATE April 2026: There’s a lot of talk this week about the chimpanzees of Ngogo, a community of chimpanzees in Kibale National Park where my home is. The Ngogo stories of ‘civil war’ amongst the primates in the jungle go back a decade. It’s hardly news.

What’s new is that an academic report has just been published in Science Journal. The report is fascinating but the resulting sensationalist media and misleading AI-generated graphics just make me want to cry. The story is trending for all the wrong reasons. Our closest relatives – 98.7% the same DNA – deserve a lot more RESPECT than a lot of the rubbish I’ve seen over the past few days. Sigh.

For a more balanced – and intimate – view of this amazingly complex community of chimpanzees, I highly recommend the 3-part Netflix documentary Chimp Empire which I wrote about here when it first came out in 2023. For more insights into Kibale’s chimps, listen to my podcast conversation with expert primatologist Professor Richard Wrangham, who has been studying Kibale’s chimps since the 1980s.

This blog post below was published in 2023: Netflix’ latest release is Chimp Empire, set in Ngogo, a section of Kibale National Park that is dedicated to research and monitoring of our great ape cousins. The trailer is thrilling! PANT HOOTS and congratulations to everyone involved in this phenomenal Netflix production. Chimp Empire charts two years in the lives of dozens of Kibale Forest’s chimps. (I doubt any Hollywood blockbuster can contain more drama than the real lives of our Closest Cousins!)

Known as “our closest relative” humans and chimpanzees share almost the same DNA. Our similarities are evidenced in chimps’ complex relationships, emotions, differing personalities, advanced forms of communication, the ability to use tools, and so much more. They are beautiful, beguiling and hilarious too!

I never fail to get excited when we hear chimpanzees. Watch the trailer and you’ll understand why! These creatures are fascinating in their own right, but their close link to us makes their appeal even more compelling. Chimp tracking is one of the big draws to Uganda. Kibale National Park isn’t the only protected area where you can view chimps, but it is the best known.

“Chimp Empire: Survival is in Our Nature” is a four-part docume;ntary series that was released on April 19 2023. The series was directed by two Academy Award® winners: James Reed, Co-Director of My Octopus Teacher (an unusual and moving film set off the coast of South Africa) and narrated by Winner Mahershala Ali.

What’s it like to track chimps in the wild? Read my personal account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest or contact the muzungu for tour operator and lodge recommendations.

Ngogo is just a few km from my home at Sunbird Hill.

The post The Ngogo story: background to Kibale Forest’s “chimp wars” [UPDATED] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

I’ve just completed a two-week tour of eastern and northeastern Uganda, which culminated in a safari in Kidepo Valley National Park and a visit to the soon-to-open NAMONI Lodge, in a Community Wildlife Area. I was intrigued to see the newly installed electric fence in the park — a 17 square kilometre enclosure set within Kidepo’s savannah landscape — ready for the arrival of the first rhinos here in 43 years*. I was in Kidepo just four days before the rhinos arrived. (Diary of a Muzungu should have stayed longer!)

Dr James Musinguzi, Executive Director of the Uganda Wildlife Authority, said on the day the first rhinos arrived in Kidepo:

“Today’s a milestone for conservation and a milestone for tourism. It marks the beginning of a new rhino story for Kidepo, and a proud day for Uganda.”

*(The last rhino in Kidepo was killed in Narus Valley in 1983, according to UWA).

You can read more about Uganda’s wider rhino recovery plans in my article on the future of Uganda’s wild rhinos.

Kidepo’s rhinos also change something fundamental. With their return, the park becomes Uganda’s first – and only – Big Five national park.

What does this mean? That visitors have a chance of seeing rhinos, as well as elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard, in one location. The “Big Five” – a term originally coined by colonial-era big game hunters to describe the five most difficult (and dangerous) animals to hunt on foot – has since become shorthand for Africa’s most sought-after wildlife sightings.

Introduction, not reintroduction

The first phase involved the translocation of two rhinos from Ziwa, part of a plan to introduce eight into Kidepo’s wilderness under Uganda’s National Rhino Conservation Strategy – the national framework for restoring rhino populations within their historical range. Dr Musinguzi explained:

“Rhinos last existed here 43 years ago, before they were hunted to extinction. It is important to note that this is an introduction, not a reintroduction. The subspecies that originally lived in Uganda is now functionally extinct. We are introducing southern white rhinos to Kidepo as a first step, with plans to bring in eastern black rhinos in the future.”

Why now?

The translocation and introduction programme was possible because of a successful breeding programme at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, in addition to the donation in 2025 of eight southern white rhinos from Munyawana Conservancy in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, by African Parks.

For years, Uganda’s rhino story has been about recovery in a sanctuary setting. In fact, many in Uganda wondered if the rhinos would ever leave the security of Ziwa. However, Ziwa is long past its carrying capacity, so translocation was well overdue. I can’t imagine how much money this whole exercise has cost, but Uganda’s tourism star is rising internationally, and with tourism already being the number one foreign revenue earner, the timing was right.

I explore this in more detail in my article on the future of Uganda’s wild rhinos.

This translocation also marks a shift in how Kidepo is positioned – not just as a remote wilderness, but as “Uganda’s only Big Five park.”

Security comes first

A frequent common question — including from a Diary of a Muzungu Facebook fan — is: how secure will the rhinos be? Rhinos remain highly sought by poachers for their horn, believed to have medicinal properties, even though it is simply keratin (the same as fingernails or hair).

On the ground, security is the starting point, not an afterthought. Before any wildlife is moved, Uganda Wildlife Authority ramps up patrols; security measures include drones and state of the art tech, perimeter fencing, patrol systems and dedicated new ranger facilities. Systems are put in place to monitor wildlife around the clock.

A national effort

This translocation has been led by Ugandans, with support from partners who helped establish a secure rhino sanctuary —fencing, access roads, firebreaks, ranger facilities, water infrastructure, monitoring systems, and the logistical planning necessary for long-term protection.

The project is funded by Ugandan tourism revenue. A long list of partners include Wild Landscapes East Africa, Uganda Conservation Foundation, Global Conservation and the Northern Rangelands Trust.

I like how the return of rhinos is described as a cultural homecoming too. As Dr Eric Enyel, Chief Warden of Kidepo Valley National Park, put it: “After 43 years rhino are returning to Kidepo. I come from Lira, not far away, where the rhino is our town’s totem. Rhino will set foot on Karamoja’s soil once again.” (Source: UCF LinkedIn page)

This translocation is not without controversy

Not all conservationists agree that southern white rhinos should be introduced to Kidepo. It is not their native habitat and some argue there are more pressing priorities.

Ugandan rhino conservationist David Bakeine writes: “There’s no justification whatsoever as to why Uganda should be taking Southern White Rhinos to Kidepo when nature has gifted Uganda with having our indigenous species. Eastern black rhino (Diceros bicornis michaeli) lived in East Madi (east of the river Nile) and Northern White Rhino lived in West Madi (west of the Nile).

There are two subspecies of white rhino: Southern white rhinos (Ceratotherium simum simum) and Northern white rhinos (Ceratotherium simum cottoni). Sudan, the last male northern white rhino, died in 2018, essentially consigning this subspecies to extinction. He is survived by two females who live at Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya.

Another conservationist takes a broader view: “Species introduction, reintroduction, and translocation help manage conservation issues.” Keystone species like rhinos – and elephants – are ‘ecosystem engineers’ meaning their grazing physically reshapes habitats. Over time their presence will trigger a ripple effect influencing vegetation, prey animals and predators. The full impact will take years to play out but after four decades without rhinos — the last having been poached in 1983 — Kidepo’s ecosystem may gradually begin to rebalance.

For a timeline of the different rhino species in Uganda, and information about Bakeine’s action4rhinos NGO, read

A personal reflection

It’s fantastic to watch organisations I know so well partnering on this project. I first came to Uganda as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation, fundraising to help build the capacity of Uganda Wildlife Authority — supporting the construction of ranger accommodation, and helping equip and train teams working in remote corners of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Back then, our key “beneficiaries” were elephants and hippos!

It’s inspiring to see that expertise now being applied to another iconic species, in an even more remote part of Uganda. Congratulations to everyone involved. I can’t wait to see the rhinos for myself on my next trip to Kidepo!

Beyond wildlife

Another highlight of my trip to the northeast was visiting Kara-Tunga’s new NAMONI Lodge — a strong example of community-based tourism. Conservation here is not just about wildlife. People, long-term livelihoods, and partnerships, such as the one with Uganda Wildlife Authority are fundamental to the whole setup. This is my kind of place!

NAMONI is the first community-rooted lodge in Kidepo, designed so tourism revenue directly supports local livelihoods and conservation in one of Uganda’s most remote ecosystems.

Where to see rhinos in Uganda

At the time of publishing this post, Uganda’s rhino population stands at 61 individuals. They can now be seen in four areas of Uganda:

• Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, central Uganda. Read my blog Tracking rhinos on foot at Ziwa.
• Ajai Wildlife Reserve, northern Uganda. Read Diary of a Muzungu’s update about the Ajai rhinos.
• Kidepo Valley National Park, northeastern Uganda
• Uganda Wildlife Education Centre, Entebbe, central Uganda

This blog posts details Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees and wildlife experiences across the country.

Kidepo is changing — and fast

Rhinos are back — and this changes Uganda’s tourism map. The possibility of seeing the Big Five in Kidepo adds a new dimension to an already extraordinary park. I’ll be back to see the rhinos for myself very soon!

Want to travel to Kidepo to see the rhinos?

My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of Muzungu and host of the East Africa Travel Podcast. Planning a trip to see Uganda’s rhinos? Send me a message and I’ll introduce you to one of the registered companies I travel with.

The post Kidepo’s rhinos make it Uganda’s first – and only – “Big Five” national park appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve recommended this masterpiece of a show: everyone must experience this fantastic night out!

Tick-tick-tick goes the bamboo on the calabash.

Sh-sh-sh-shake the seeds in the gourd.

Thump-thump-thump thuds the stick on the taut hide of the drum.

The early evening air in the Ndere Centre’s ampitheatre fills with the rich, bass sound of the harp-like adungu.

Men beat the surface of the drum hard with the flat of their hands. The drumming rises to a crescendo as the women dancers elegantly descend the stairs into the open air Amphitheatre, all brilliant smiles and waving arms.

And then it starts!

A group of twelve women shake their hips, moving to a joyful, seductive rhythm. They throw back their heads as they circle the floor to the sound of the dexterous plucking of the adungu. To one side of the stage, five men play a giant wooden xylophone.

Ten drummers and acrobats in bark cloth tunics fly onto the stage, doing press ups and mock fighting and doing press-ups. They SLAP the sides of the drum with sticks. With big grins on their faces, the acrobats race towards the audience, arms flailing and legs akimbo, kicking left and right. Round and round they go. The energy of the Maggunju, the Royal welcome dance of the Baganda, holds the audience captive, ready for our musical and cultural tour of Uganda.

As our host – and cultural ambassador – Stephen Rwangyezi walks down through the audience to welcome us, a little white boy runs up to him and starts playing Stephen’s drum.

“Forget your problems – we are going to take you to the different parts of the country.” Stephen tells us. “Now WE are the donors” – he tells the predominantly Muzungu audience – as we have something in abundance to offer YOU!”

In Western Uganda, it’s all about the cows

We listen to the music played to relax the cows. “After walking 20 kilometres each way to drink water, wouldn’t you be stressed?” He asks. Even the okujumeera – the sound of cow mowing is developed into the singing while the thudding of their hooves – is reflected in the dance steps of Western Uganda.

Through his anecdotes, Stephen reminds us of the continent’s enormous contribution to global culture. He illustrates how the traditional sounds of Africa can be heard in modern American rap music.

“Who is President Obama?” He asks, but “the Original Black African Managing America.”

Click to read “Interview with a rebel” my conversation with Dr Rwangyezi – one of the most illuminating conversations I have ever had!

We pass through Bunyoro and Toro “where love was first invented.”

We hear a haunting song from Ankole and then we move on to the upbeat sound of the West Nile and the adungu.

The Amphitheatre is filled with a frenetic whirl of colour and a flash of white teeth. KABINARIFIC! The women dancers whip up a storm on the dance floor. Fast and furious, how do the men play those drums so speedily? (I can’t even tap my fingers that fast).

We can’t pass through West Nile without a historical anecdote, of which there are many interweaved throughout the evening. Of Idi Amin, Stephen says “when he was in the country, people were scared. When he was out of the country, people were embarrassed.” He recounts how, time and again, cultural and language blunders rolled out of the then president’s mouth.

Later in the show, children are invited onto the open stage. 27 kids of all ages listen attentively to Stephen’s every word. It’s an unexpected highlight of the evening to see him invite each child to do their turn in the circle. I find it extraordinary to think that not so long ago this dancing was banned. (Even now colonial legislation still exists in Uganda that in theory makes traditional dancing illegal).

As the show draws to an end I recognise the unmistakable whistles of the music that made me first fall in love with Uganda.

The male dancers wear bright green beads around their waists over imitation (I hope) leopard skin tunics. Long colourful beads drape over their shoulders, criss-crossing at the waist. Their headdresses have white tuft-like tails. The women wear thin strings of beads around their foreheads.

“If you dance together you can never be at war.”

The dancers genuinely seem to love what they do. There’s a great camaraderie and joking around between the dancers and Stephen. Their passion and playfulness is contagious.

How many shows are there in Uganda that you would rush to see more than three times?

“When people in our culture dance, you don’t let them suffer alone – you join in!” So just remember, next time you feel stressed, do as Stephen suggests: “shake your seating facilities.”

Diary of a Muzungu highly recommends the Ndere show!

Watching the Ndere Troupe perform takes me back to my first night out in Kampala, courtesy of my then employer Voluntary Service Overseas. The show is a fantastic introduction to Uganda! It’s a celebration of Africa and everyone should see it. I remember sitting on the edge of my seat thinking: “I’m finally here. I’m in Africa!“

The colour, the energy, the smiles and the humour, the stories… the whole experience was everything I’d imagined Africa to be and more.

How to reserve tickets for the Ndere Show

This article was originally commissioned by the Empazi Magazine, the brainchild of Ugandan creative Arnie Petit.

Have you visited Kampala’s Ndere Center yet? What was your favourite part of the show?

The post Shake your kabina! Ndere Centre’s musical, dancing tour of Uganda [UPDATED] appeared first on Diary of a Muzungu.

Diary of a Muzungu’s summary of key changes

The headline gorilla permit remains unchanged at USD 800, which may surprise some people. The most notable increases are: gorilla habituation, chimpanzee habituation, Kyambura Gorge chimp tracking and experiential lion tracking. The most interesting development is the expansion of specialist, conservation-led tourism experiences, particularly golden cat tracking and Ajai rhino tracking.

Looking across the chimpanzee experiences, Kibale chimp tracking sees a modest increase for foreign non-residents. Chimpanzee habituation in Kibale rises more noticeably. The most significant shift is in Kyambura Gorge, where foreign non-resident rates double from USD 100 to USD 200 and foreign resident rates rise sharply from USD 80 to USD 150.

In February 2026 UWA confirmed that the revised rates will take effect from 1 January 2027 (except the discounted permit rates which are effective immediately). I will share a link to the new tariff document once released by UWA.

NOTE: this older blog post details all Uganda Wildlife Authority fees until June 2026.

UWA has introduced discounted low season gorilla and chimpanzee permits for April, May and November (effective immediately). They are as follows:

Gorilla tracking
Foreign Non-Residents: USD 600 (read “international tourists”)
Foreign Residents: USD 500 (read “expatriates”)

Chimpanzee tracking
Foreign Non-Residents: USD 200
Foreign Residents: USD 150

These discounted permit rates take immediate effect and are designed to encourage travel during quieter months.

Important note: low season permits cannot be rescheduled so take care when confirming your travel dates before booking permits.

Revised conservation fees from 1 January 2027

Dr James Musinguzi, Executive Director of UWA, has confirmed that the revised conservation fees will take effect on 1 January 2027 (correcting an earlier communicated implementation date). The most relevant rates are:

Gorilla tracking (Bwindi and Mgahinga)

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 800 (no change)
Foreign Residents: USD 700 (no change)
East Africans: UGX 300,000 (no change)
Rest of Africa: USD 500 (no change)

Gorilla habituation experience (Bwindi)

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 1,800 (an increase of USD 300)
Foreign Residents: USD 1,600 (an increase of USD 600).
East Africans: UGX 750,000
Rest of Africa: USD 1,000

Chimpanzee tracking (Kibale National Park)

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 300 (an increase of USD 50)
Foreign Residents: USD 200 (no change)
Rest of Africa: USD 100
East Africans: UGX 180,000 (no change)

Chimpanzee habituation (Kibale National Park)

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 400 (an increase of USD 100)
Foreign Residents: USD 300 (an increase of USD 50)
East Africans: UGX 250,000
Rest of Africa: USD 250

Chimpanzee tracking (Kyambura Gorge)

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 200 (an increase of USD 100)
Foreign Residents: USD 150 (an increase of $70)
East Africans: UGX 50,000
Rest of Africa: USD 100

Golden cat tracking – a new activity in Kibale National Park

UWA’s update also highlights new, specialist wildlife experiences within Uganda’s protected areas including golden cat tracking in Kibale National Park and rhino tracking in Ajai Wildlife Reserve.

Golden cat tracking is a brand new, research-based experience. The muzungu needs to try this one! I once saw a golden cat crossing the road at dusk as we drove through Kibale Forest. It was just a dark smudge in the distance but the golden cat has a distinct body shape. I’ve also recorded a golden cat footprint near my home on the boundary of Kibale National Park at Sunbird Hill.

Golden cat tracking in Kibale National Park (5-day experience)

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 350
Foreign Residents: USD 350
East Africans: UGX 350,000
Rest of Africa: USD 350

Experiential lion tracking in Queen Elizabeth National Park

This has become a popular activity courtesy of UWA and the Uganda Carnivore Programme.

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 500 (an increase of USD 300)
Foreign Residents: USD 300
East Africans: UGX 250,000
Rest of Africa: USD 300

Rhino tracking (Ajai Wildlife Reserve)

This is a great development for rhino conservation, local communities around Ajai and for tourism. In late 2025, the first white rhinos were translocated from Ziwa Sanctuary to Ajai, a historic milestone for recovery of Ajai. It’s high on my must-visit list.

Foreign Non-Residents: USD 20 (adults); USD 5 (children)
Foreign Residents: USD 15 (adults); USD 5 (children)
East Africans: UGX 10,000 (adults); UGX 2,500 (children)
Rest of Africa: USD 10 (adults); USD 3 (children)

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