Dine In Portland, Maine Restaurant Reviews

David's Restaurant

Sun, 26 Feb 2012 01:20:53 +0000

Good things come and go.

David's Restaurant, in Monument Square (Portland, Maine), has historically been my "go-to" place for drinks and dinner. I felt comfortable sitting at the bar, knew the people that worked there, and had a good meal most times I went there. I think that might be over now, mostly for reasons that have little to do with food.

We went to have dinner at David's Restaurant on Saturday night. Walked in, stood over our regular spots, and felt something was amiss. The bar was brighter, much brighter than normal. It took me a moment to realize the lamps have been replaced since my last visit, and with them gone so was the intimacy and warmth. I looked around at the restaurant, the kitchen, and the bar only to see two familiar faces. It looked as though the entire brigade was replaced.

Eventually, we were acknowledged by the bar-keep. Unfortunately, I have been spoiled as a regular and come to expect as much. It is not the same when the guy behind the bar has clue. My cohort was schooled on wine listings, while I no longer could order "the usual."

The plan was to eat until we could eat no more, but that quickly changed. Even so, we started off with a few small plates to see how the evening would go. The steak tartar tasted great, but I had one fatty bite that sort of ruined the whole dish. The baked brie needed an extra slice of crostini; we had no bread basket either to sweep up the last bits of the dish. The calamari was soggy and many pieces managed to escape their crusty shells of fried goodness; they just laid naked in a sad pile of soaked bread crumbs.

So, we finished up our drinks and hastily made our way over to Walter's for dinner. Surprisingly, I've never eaten an Walter's before, even though I've been fully aware of how awesome of a restaurant it is. We started with a dinner-sized Calamari appetizer that trumped the one we had eaten, just minutes before, at David's. From there we made our way through entrees, dessert, and plenty of drinks. The night could not have been better.

Change is good in many ways. For me, I now have a new "default" restaurant - Walter's - that will likely be my favorite in Portland. Cest la vie.

Figa's Identity Crisis?

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 02:55:02 +0000

Figa Restaurant (249 Congress Street, Portland, ME) remains a fantastic place for a delicious meal. Interestingly, the restaurants Brazilian flare seems to have faded and is replaced by excellent French fare.

This weekend we stopped at Figa for a simple dinner. Rather than ordering dishes from the spoons and forks like times past, we stuck to a shared appetizer, two entrees, and a couple desserts.

For the appetizer, we had their venison sausage served on a bed of bitter greens. Even though the sausage was slightly dry, it was absolutely delicious. It came out quickly from the kitchen and served as a great bite next to a Tequila based Honeysuckle and the White Lotus, both from Figa's drinks menu.

For dinner, I had the hangar steak served with perfectly cooked root vegetables and brussel sprouts. The vegetable side-dish could easily be its own plate; it's rare to find properly cooked vegetables in today's eclectic restaurants. The steak was satisfying although a bit chewy, perhaps I simply had it too rare. I suppose the only Brazilian twist on, what I see as, Figa's take on steak-fritte was the use of yucca in the vegetables. However, by all accounts, this was a French dish cooked by a very talented French-trained chef.

My cohort had the Cassoulet served with duck confit, sausage, and pork belly. A rich, decadent, and satisfying meal that stands up to my Old Port Favorite: the cassoulet at Five Fifty Five. What put it over the top, however, were the three meats paired with the dish.

For dessert we had the coconut-lychee ice cream and their pound cake. The good news is Figa's deserts have come a long way from the time the restaurant opened. Taste wise, both were refreshing and a wonderful end to a rich meal. Unfortunately, even though it tasted great, the ice-cream was broken and should have never left the kitchen.

In short, Figa is one of my absolute favorites. The covert switch to a very French bistro menu, and its excellent execution, is sure to propel Figa towards further success. My only thought is whether or not this restaurant is still Figa. After-all, if the food is the soul of a restaurant, did Figa's soul get replaced?

Zapoteca Restaurant

Mon, 10 Oct 2011 01:24:19 +0000

one tequila, two tequila, three tequila, more!

Admittedly, the first time we landed at Zapoteca (505 Fore Street, Portland, Maine) was after a few drinks at Gingko Blue. Between a few rounds of beers, and a tequila flight, I was enchanted and loved every moment of it. Last night we decided to revisit, and probably have a slightly more calibrated perception of Zapoteca.

The first time at Zapoteca, we stumbled in around 10 pm. We met a couple at the door that had an appreciation for the restaurant and shared their passed experience: try the ceviche. So we did, and admittedly the sampler - made of scallop, shrimp, and lobster - tasted great. What made them a bit unusual was that they could have been cocktails. The tomato broth could have easily been a Bloody Mary, the grapefruit a Sea Breeze. However, the flavors were right and certainly enjoyable.

The guacamole, on the other hand, was far from unusual and certainly excellent. It was prepared chunky with patience and finesse, a trait lacking in so many places that use food processors and other contraptions to expedite delivery. It helped balance the ceviches and made a great appetizer for what was to come next.

There are two portions of the menu, with two different price points. The top part contains enchiladas whereas the bottom portion is more American-Mexican fusion. In other words, there is something for everyone. We stuck to the enchilada dishes and they were delightful.

Zapoteca's tequila selection is respectable. Big city Tequileiras do not compare, but Portland is not a metropolis. The good news is the flights are served with - easily - the best Sangrita in Maine.

With all the fun and alcohol, we figured that one more night out would be appropriate. We landed there on Saturday, and the evening was a sobering reality check.

We sat at a table with a view of the kitchen, which made me a witness to errors I hope restaurants make rarely. While watching the action I was timing some of the dishes. The picture is of a ceviche that sat for 14 minutes; meanwhile, the thermostat next to us read 81 degrees.

The mixed drinks are far from proper. In fact, they remind me more of something I would be served at a Chili's Bar and Grill. I had the Jalapenito - which sounds amazing - but is a major flop for two reasons: over-sweetened and insufficiently muddled. The mint leaves were not even broken, much less broken down, so I effectively drank a rum and agave nectar mixture with mint garnish.

Thinking about it further, dishes like a Maine Shrimp Ceviche should not be on a permanent menu, as they are only in season during winter. Ceviche is still raw, and I rather not eat shrimp that have been frozen for 8 months. So, as quickly as I became enchanted by the tequila selection, vibrant flavors, and lively atmosphere, I cannot shake the feeling that Zapoteca is more like a chain than a independent restaurant in Portland.

Taco Escobarr (aka Taco Escobar)

Mon, 10 Oct 2011 00:23:49 +0000

the good, the bad, and the puffy

For all the hype leading up to the opening of Taco Escobarr (548 Congress Street, Portland, ME) the new restaurant under-deliver in taste, flavor, and ambiance. As a fan of Nosh Kitchen Bar I walked away with one word describing my experience: bland.

Portland does not suffer from a lack of Latin American cusine. The Old Port, and surrounding area, are littered with places like El Rayo, Wild Burritos, Zapoteca, Tu Casa, Mesa Verde, Taco Trio, Amigos, etc... it is appearant that Mainers love it. The ones that are seemingly successful tend to differentiate themselves with a focused menu and flavor.

We figured one way to get a good sampling of Taco Escobarr was to order three different tacos, on three different shells. Almost exhasperated, the bar keep made sure to point out that the way we were ordering did not conform to their pricing structure; a fact hard to miss since the menu is simple to read. It's not surprising to me that a fair number of patrons must question their taco pricing policy; I wonder what most have to say about the $5 rice and beans.

Before the tacos arrived, we saw a warning sign from the three girls sitting next to us: picked apart tacos and left-over shells. When our two orders arrived (6 tacos total) it became pretty obvious: greasy shells.

To be quite honest, I am not sure which one was the crispy and which one was the puffy - all I know is both delivered a mouthful of oily broth with each bite. The fillings left much to be desired, with somewhat seasoned meats paired with lackluster condiments.

The means by which the condiments are paired was bizarre to the both of us. Rather than match the filling, they are lined up with the choice of shell. To me, that creates a bit of a dilemma: how am I to choose the right compliment to carne asada when I am slightly inebriated?

We finished our meal, washed it down with some great beer from Maine Brewing Company, and crossed the street to Nosh Kitchen Bar. There, a few more drinks, fries, and their specials rounded off the evening. Nosh is my backup when dinner fails, it's ironic I had to use it with their other restaurant.

Pho Hanoi: Worth the Trip

Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:40:58 +0000

Six minutes from downtown Portland, just over the Casco Bay Bridge, is a little gem called Pho Hanoi (171 Ocean Street, South Portland, Maine). The restaurant serves a plethora of delicious noodle and rice dishes. Fantastic for lunch, and equally great for dinner, Pho Hanoi is a frequent choice for me on any day of the week.

Pho Hanoi is my take-away destination, even though they have a spacious modern dining room. You would not know it looking from the outside, but the place feels like an authentic asian noodle-bar. Nestled between a bar and some closed up shoppe, I drove past it on many occasions without ever giving it a second look.

The menu has a large number of simple dishes, but all are prepared fresh and always consistent. My favorite dinner is the "#two and #twenty", a shrimp spring roll and their mixed meat vermicelli noodle. The nice thing about take-aways is that I can enjoy the comfort of my own home and liquor cabinet. For me, a home-made margarita made with fresh-squeezed lime juice and Herradura Tequila takes the meal to a whole new level.

I enjoy the simplicity of fresh-spring rolls. At Pho Hanoi they are accompanied by a peanut-paste (as opposed to sweet-chili sauce you find in many other places). It is a simple, delicate, and flavorful mouthful of lettuce and shrimp. Their eggrolls are equally tasty, and far from the typical fried roll many "Asian" restaurants serve.

So far I've found all the dishes to have a good amount of vegetables; for example, the broths come with a bag of bean-spouts. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the noodles rest on a serving of shredded lettuce, so the entire dish is flavorful and vibrant. Sriracha helps deliver that extra kick at the diner's discretion.

I tried to compare my view of Pho Hanoi with others online before writing, and was seriously puzzled by less than favorable reviews of this restaurant. To my knowledge, there is no Vietnamese restaurant in downtown Portland to even make a comparison to. Pho Hanoi's dishes are well priced, reasonable portions, and full of flavor. Best of all, because they are balanced and fresh, there is nothing to feel guilty about. Admittedly, I've felt so "not-guilty" that I've made two trips in one day.

Havana South: Cuban-American Fused.

Sun, 14 Aug 2011 01:46:40 +0000

Havana South (50 Wharf Street, Portland, Maine) name sounds Cuban, but is far from it. Growing up in Miami, I ate my share of Cuban food; I assure you that Maine lobster was never on the table. Havana South is an American restaurant fused with Latin flare. The menu includes steak, gnocchi, and seafood that is more local than the name suggests.

This is not the first time I’ve been to Havana South, and learned quickly that the evening should begin with their Mojito; so far the best in Portland. Thus far I’ve seen the sweetness level to vary, but the result is always the same: refreshing and soothing calm to a warm summer day. Although an expensive drink at Havana South, I do not see an evening without it.

I started off the dinner with an appetizer of empanadas. I have been craving them, and Jamaican patties, for months and recently had an encounter with ones that left much to be desired. I fell into a tourist trap restaurant in Bar Harbor last weekend, and Havana South offered a chance for redemption. Unfortunately, the empanadas were average and easily forgotten. From my perspective, too doughy and simply bland.

I had to resist not to get their chicken. Seriously, it is difficult to forget once you’ve tasted it. It brought me here tonight. It is roasted, with an supremely crisp skin, gorgeous color, and a crackle when you cut through it. The meat is moist, and most certainly delicious. Served with purple potatoes and greens, it is a dichotomy of simple and complex. Preampted with their meat sampler appetizer, it makes a great meal.

I did fight the urge and ordered the sword fish instead. It was a special this evening and sounded delightful. Havana South’s portions are reasonable, but be prepared to order a meal and not a just a plate.   The swordfish was grilled properly, and seasoned lightly.   The rice was well cooked but not as exciting as I had hoped. The vegetables suffered from saffron overload. In fact, the whole dish was aggressively seasoned with saffron, which I believe should be used sparingly.

The only thing I regret is the proximity of smokers, about 6 feet from my table. I am also a late eater, and I’ve only seen a few restaurants that need bouncers at the door.   The bar opens to all evening traffic, and it can get rowdy.

Overall, Havana South is a descent choice on a warm night; with large doors and ample patio space it feels vibrant. The food is far from aggressively seasoned, which makes it a safe bet for any palate. The bill, and the end of my lonesome night, was steep but manageable.   It’s not a weekly destination, or even a monthly, but every now and then Havana South will keep me coming back.

Petite Jacqueline: Bon Apetit!

Thu, 30 Jun 2011 23:47:36 +0000

I've been going back to Petite Jacqueline (at 190 State St. Portland, ME where Evangeline's used to be) since a few weeks after it opened. The restaurant has this surreal vibe where Paris meets Epcot Center: you know you're in Portland, but the ambiance and food take you on a quick journey. I was told about Petite Jacqueline by a waitress at Five Fifty-Five, owned by the same people.

Looking through the windows I often see an inverted age bell-curve with most either being young adults or seniors. The kitchen and dining room are well staffed, and everyone is exceptionally friendly. Eve though I've witnessed many dates and celebrations, the atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable.

There is really very little I have to say about Petite Jacqueline, largely because it is well covered in the press and blogs, but mostly due to that their food is absolutely fantastic and deserves a try. My favorites thus far are the gnocchi and beef bourguignon. The latter has been especially wonderful in this chilly spring we had.

15 Exchange Street Bistro (15 Exchange Grille)

Sat, 26 Mar 2011 22:02:12 +0000

Located at the address as the name suggests, 15 Exchange Street Bistro is now in the space Walter's Restaurant moved out of. Three weeks ago we landed there for dinner; it was a bad decision that my stomach will keep me from repeating. The place was dreadful on all accounts: the drinks, the food, and the service.

For an appetizer, I went with the Grecian Calamari salad which was - without any exaggeration - unpalatable. Raw baby spinach topped with cheese, olives, and the most repulsive squid mantles I have ever been faced with. They were supposedly sauteed, but I would call them steamed without seasoning or care. To join the uneatable salad was an overcooked, and under-seared, half of a duck breast. It was garnished with a rogue orange (no orange in the dish) and drowned in a salty jeus. There was no surprise from the kitchen that the salad went back whole, and judging by the unfolding meal there was no alternative that would be better.

For the main courses, we had their steak and lamb dishes. The steak was under-seared as well, so I will call it boiled in its own juices, served with pathetic potatoes and a confetti of peppers. The only redeeming aspect of the plate were the vegetables; not that they were good - they were just not bad. The leg of lamb dish appeared to be the leftover chunks from lunch, heated in a bath of gravy, and unappetizingly gamey. In all, the dishes were reminiscent of a budget hotel's restaurant kitchen.

The bar tender was actually nice and engaging, the problem was lack of professionalism. It may have been the hours he spent working - or the burden of knowing the food was repulsive - that made him simply unpolished and more cavalier than necessary. The house mixed drinks shared similar characteristics, in that they were overly boozy and lacking refinement. As far as the rest of the staff, largely inattentive. The kitchen seemed to be lead by a rugby player - judging by the uniform - moving much but producing little. At least their work was reduced by the thaw & serve Oreo brand cakes served for dessert.

Perhaps they will change over time, but 15 Exchange Street Bistro has so many technical challenges that I dot see how the business can turn around. I doubt I will return and urge others to do the same; my $100 evening was a complete waste. I would have had more respect for 15 Exchange Bistro it closed the doors and addressed the staff issues. Instead, they chose to work their employees ragged, stitch a dysfunctional kitchen brigade, and serve the worst meal in Portland, Maine.

Figa: No Reservations

Wed, 26 Jan 2011 03:58:36 +0000

Figa Restaurant (249 Congress Street, Portland, ME) beginnings were drama-filled and largely recorded in the blogosphere. Since it opened, Figa has had a favorable opinion from foodies and guests. I agree, Figa serves up an excellent dining experience.

My first trip to Figa Restaurant was unfortunately timed with their two family nights. In effect, I walked into a room filled with many people that all seemed to look alike. I was greeted warmly; I even recall the words "we're glad you could come" uttered by someone near the door. Since I was slow to catch on, it only took a moment for them to realize that I was an outsider and denied a gluttenous evening I was prepared to endure.

Last week I decided to revisit Figa, this time determined to dine in. We arrived a week ago Friday, sometime past 8 pm, and needed no reservations to be seated immediately. The restaurant was buzzing with couples and celebratory nights out; I spotted at least three bottles of bubbly uncorked at various tables.

There were two of us, so we went with a reasonably priced bottle of Juan Gil ($35). Figa has a progressive menu designed with small, larger, and entree sized plates; even the small ones felt generous. We shared a chicken liver pate, shrimp on a corn Bellini, lamb-chop with lentils, wild boar with coconut rice and raisin chutney, and three different desserts. The chicken liver was one which non-pate eaters can enjoy. The shrimp was tasty, but forgettable; juxtaposed against a lamb chop that left a lasting impression. The perfectly seared medallion of meat continues to resonate on my taste buds a week later. Wild boar was delicious, but it begs the question where it really comes from; Figa is not the only restaurant to offer it on their menu. Corner Room does a decadent ragu with wild boar that is also delicious.

The desserts left much to be desired. We had a trio of creme-brulees that were quite unappetizing. One tasted like window-cleaner, one was burned, and one would have been palatable if it were not for its texture. The panna cotta also suffered from textural problems. The only redeeming quality of the dessert was a sliver of chocolate cake; even though it was boring, we enjoyed it.

Overall, Figa Restaurant has a bright future. The staff appears to have been hand-picked, as are the ingredients, and the hard work of the chef (clearly visible in the open kitchen) will keep me coming back.

Goodbye Evangeline

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 03:15:41 +0000

Evangeline's (190 State St, Portland, ME) was a delightful French restaurant; no doubt many of us will miss it. I noticed the "For Rent" signs just over a week ago, and learned that the doors have been closed sometime around November 15th. My only regret is I never had a chance to order the pressed duck.

We discovered Evangeline on a Restaurant Week tour a few years ago, and immediately fell in love. I will not forget the classic soups, exceptional pork belly, delightful gnocchi, silky panna cotta, and exciting cheese boards. Since then Evangeline's a favorite destination on a Monday night; their price-fix menu was always satisfying.

As much as the food was wonderful, the mixology was divine. Without a doubt I will miss the clean and sophisticated drinks coming from the bar. My habit of ordering wine proved to be an Achilles heel, as I only discovered the art of the barkeep this year. I only wish I had taken more time to note the drinks I paired with my last few meals.

As wonderful as Evangeline was, there was always one item that provided hours of humour to my friends and I: the egg holders. I can attribute many nights of laughs, and a couple of nights of embarrassment to these little cups as they were grossly misused at Evangeline's. Where normally an egg would sit, Evangeline's chef chose to fill them with perfectly softened butter. I'll sure miss them.