Over a Tuscan Stove

Fiori Fritti- Fried Zucchini Blossoms

2012-05-26T08:37:00.000+02:00

I adore spring and this year it came sort of late but is one of the most beautiful in years.

The hills are all shades of velvety green and red poppies and yellow scotch broom add touches of color.

One of my clients asked me yesterday why we fry flowers and who thought of it. I think it comes from living a simple life in the countryside and foraging. It is still active today. I will often see people on the side of the roads now with plastic bags instead of woven baskets in the fields around my valley.

Right now we have acacia blossoms, elderberry blossoms and the zucchini are blooming.

All the acacia and elderberry can simply be deep fried after rinsing off, i prefer a tempura style batter, just water and flower as it remains lacy and light.Then it is your choice to sprinkle with salt for savory or with sugar for sweet.

But the treasure of the season are the zucchini blossoms.

I bought these a the local weekly market, my zucchini is just starting to produce blossoms.

When you grow your own, pay attention to the stamen on the inside.

Girl zucchini have fallopian tubes and boys have--- well you know!

this is a boy

here you can see the difference between male and female blossoms

Girls will produce zucchini. The boys do not. Sound familiar?

The blossoms are wide open in the early morning sun and that is when you should pick them.

Take off the prickly sepals on the outside and then castrate them on the inside byt removing the stamen.

( it is edible, but my husband doesn't like it so i take it out).

The blossoms can be simply fried as a side dish or to make them richer, fill with ricotta cheese or day-old mozzarella cubes and pieces of anchovy.

Fiori Fritti- Fried Zucchini Blossoms
the Batter

1 cup of flour

1 egg, separate the yolk from the white and save the white.

1/2 cup milk or white wine

pinch of salt

grated nutmeg

Whisk the above ingredients together until smooth.

Should be a nice smooth batter, not too thick.

If it is too thick, thin with a little more milk or wine. Flour is different everywhere and the size of the eggs as well.

Whisk the egg white until light and fluffy like for a meringue.

Stir in a small amount to lighten the mixture then fold in the rest.

Heat oil for frying.

Have paper towel ready.

Pan fry the blossoms, rolled in the batter to cover completely.

I turn a couple of times to make sure they are crispy.

Lay on paper towel and lightly salt before serving.

My secret dream is to make these a sweet version, like a cannoli. with chocolate chips inside, maybe candied orange zest and to dust with powdered sugar. I think it could also be a nice Mexican dessert. Flor di Calabasas.

who wants to try?

Divina Cucina on the Road- Sicily 2012

2012-05-24T19:59:00.002+02:00

Each time I go to Sicily it seems more and more like coming home.

On my bucket list is to have a home in Sicily and retire there by the sea, so it is with extreme pleasure that I share my Sicily with my fellow lover's of food and travel on our culinary expeditions.

off the beaten track in Palermo

I visit Sicily at least three times a year with small groups and each time it just gets better and better.
For me, food is culture and the people that grow the food and prepare the food are ambassadors for their countries.

We always go to markets, and visit a winery, artisans and friends. This trip was no exception. I hope when one goes home, they feel they not only have new recipes but also new friends!

our class with Angelo hand-rolling our own couscous

Sicily is an island filled with amazing food, wine and culture. We always visit the Selinute site, and this year had a fabulous cooking class near by with my friend Gabriella, who also arranges her friend, Vincenzo to come and do a cheese making demo for us. We then take our cheese back and use it for our recipes. This year we made a cassata with our ricotta.

angelo really does this on his own - the only real "demo" we do, rest is hand's on

goodies at the Capo market in Palermo

Having studied art history in college, Sicily is total gratification! Baroque art, Greek Temples a mind blowing explosion of beauty in one place.

Monreale just outside Palermo

Selinunte, near Castelvetrano

our Primo sale cheese made with Vincenzo

one of the men hand harvesting the sand in Trapani salt flats

A favorite stop is always the salt flats just outside Trapani where the boats to to Mothya. We were lucky to actually see them harvesting the salt. The shop at the Ettore e Infersa has salt and lovely ceramics as well as a collection of jewelery made by Daniela Neri that are lovely.

This year we added a wonderful new event, a wine maker dinner with the lovely Marilena Barbera from Cantina Barbera in Menfi. It was a true pleasure.

Marlena and her Bambina- Rose from Nero D'avola

Another favorite stop on our trip is a visit with Pino Maggiore of the Cantina Siciliana.

Pino- our Trapani expert!

I have openings for my November program which is when the new oil comes out! Bring an extra suitcase to bring back a 5 liter tin!

I am going through my recipes of what we learned on this trip and will post soon. I think the favorite was our Pasta Timballo made with Angelo Pumilia at Planeta.

one of our favorite recipes this trip!

SiciliAmo--- I love Sicily

Keeping Kitchen- Pickled Onions and Fish

2012-05-13T13:04:00.000+02:00

I am leaving for a week in Sicily ( I know, poor me) and leave the pantry full for my husband when I go away for any length of time. I had already made some pulled pork a week or so ago and found some lovely sweet red onions at the market and could'd resist making some pickled Mexican onions for garnish for the pulled pork.

Mexican Pickled Onions

I used something similar to this recipe- but....
Instead of parboiling the onions, since they are so sweet, I just lightly salt to pull out the water.

Then I cover with vinegar and allspice, bay leaves, oregano and some of the vinegar I have from my pickled beets which give it a great color.

I will let them sit and soften before serving.

While I was making things to fill the fridge, I also made a typical Italian marinated fish recipe. Traditionally, they use sardines or anchovies, in Venice and in Sicily. In Liguria, they use other small fish called boghe. I was gifted slices of a fish calles sciabola, popular in Sicily.

Pesce in Saor

Lightly flour and fry the fish.

Saute sliced onions in a tiny bit of oil and lightly salt.

Splash with white wine vingar and a few tablespoons of sugar ( taste to balance flavor). Add raisins and meanwhile toast pinenuts.

Top the fish with the warm vinegar and onion mixture, add the pinenuts.

Serve cold or at room temperature.

Follow me on my Facebook page while I am in Sicily----

Simply Divina- I Latini - San Gimignano

2012-05-04T21:27:00.001+02:00

Where does a cook go when hungry?

We are really lucky to have a great family restaurant near by, I Latini, on the road from Certaldo to San Gimignano.

Chiara Latini runs this small hotel and restaurant, grand daughter of Narcisso Latini, who opened the original I Latini restaurant in Florence. Times change and families get larger and larger. Chiara's parents now own Da Giovanni in Florence, just around the corner from the original restaurant which is now run by her uncle.

What I adore about going back again and again to the same place, is that you don't even look at a menu.
They just tell you what is special that day, as you already know the traditional dishes.

Today she had a carton of fresh fava beans sitting in the front room and was serving baskets of beans in the shell and some pecorino cheese.

She said, " If I'd known you were coming I would have made up some of a new salad I created."

I offered to shell the beans at the table and she brought out the rest of the ingredients from the kitchen to create the salad.

Fresh fave beans with tiny cubes of salami and fresh pecorino cheese.

Lightly drizzle with extra virgin olive oikl a sprinkle of salt and she also suggested a tiny drizzle of a light balsamic vineger ( the grocery store kind) which has a light tartness.

A perfect spring salad for a picnic or a party.

I Latini
hotel and restaurant
via dei platani, 1
badia a elmi, San gimignano

My next project is putting together some Divine Days Itineraries. My suggestions for fun food itineraries, with visits to villages, a great place for lunch and an afternoon town too.

Things that I like to do myself.

Farro Salad Revisited- Changing Seaons

2012-05-03T17:36:00.000+02:00

Often it is hard to know when to change your wardrobe here in Italy. Spring has arrived and the days get longer, more sun and warmth. Next thing a storm blows in and temperatures drop and back to layering with sweaters to keep warm and soup and stews back on the stove.

Sometimes there are recipes that I love that I can adapt to the seasons like I do with how I dress.

Years ago I learned a fabulous Farro Salad when staying down in Umbria at a friends converted Castle B&B ( it has since changed owners). The incredible simple salad paired farro and chickpeas with warm tomatoes and sliced black truffles. Beans and rice are a perfect protein and so this is one of my go to dishes for parties as well as everyday simple meals. Obviously truffles are not for every day.

I have a thing for Italian canned tuna. It is my go-to sandwich when I am on the road at bars. Tuna and a tiny bit of mayonaise, perhaps some capers. It is ALWAYS good.

A Tuscan traditional recipe is Tonno e Fagioli, Tuna and Bean salad. Cannellini beans, slow cooked with sage and olive oil are served cold with tuna and thin slices of red onions.

Today I took the basic recipe I use to make CHICCHI, channeling my inner Nigella and just going to the pantry.

Summer Chickpea Salad

Pre-cooked chickpeas ( garbonzo beans) rinsed
1 cup parboiled farro (also called emmer or splet, boiled in salted water until it gets tender-20 minutes)

Mix with:
sauteed cherry tomatoes in olive oil with garlic and chili pepper to taste.

Let cool.

Drain a can of tuna, packed in olive oil, and crumble into the salad.

Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and top with fresh herbs, I had chives from my garden today.

Good food does not take a long time to make. Empty the fridge and be inspired!!!

Foraging from the Car

2012-05-01T10:24:00.001+02:00

The weather here has been so odd, that I haven't risked walking in the fields to look for wild asparagus. We have had so much rain ( much needed rain) that it would have been a muddy mess.

That said, I do know that on the road down the hill from our house, heading into town, I always see the female asparagus fronds after the season is over. So sort of remembering where they are, I keep my eyes peeled for asparagus.

Usually the local neighbors beat me to it. I often see them with their baskets or plastic bags going up and down the road and also in the fields. There are so many edible weeds here as well as asparagus.

We were rewarded yesterday but the site of a long asparagus shooting up!

You can see the long asparagus tip, hidden in the grasses and the very fine plant with the tiny balls on it is the female asparagus plant and her seeds.

As we drove along the road we were rewarded with more asparagus sightings!

It is the little things in life that make me happy! I don't need a zillion asparagus, but adore finding "free food" and appreciate it. My husband makes fun of me, saying I should leave the asparagus on the road, as it is not a lot.

Not a huge "harvest" but enough to enjoy. I simply sauteed them in a little olive oil with some fresh garlic and a pinch of salt and then baked then in the oven in a "tortino".

A tortino is like a frittata, but baked in the oven. I made a small one for us to enjoy together, using our local ceramic ramekins.

I know, I should have a bottle of wine here, but the frittata was hot and still puffy from the oven and I wanted to take the foto without fussing with setting up too much.

Tortino di Asparagi for Two

I used one egg, lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons of parmesan cheese, a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons of milk.

The wild asparagus was cut into bite-size pieces and sauteed with some green garlic in extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt until tender.

Stir the asparagus into the egg mixture and pour into a small ramekin to bake.

Bake at 350 degrees until the center is cooked and puffed up.

This is great hot but also cold. Italians love an egg sandwich using a frittata or tortino.

A frittata is usually started on top of the stove like an omelet and then finished in the oven, for those that are afraid to flip in the pan!

Tuscan Trattoria Potatoes- Comfort Food

2012-04-29T21:42:00.000+02:00

For me, potatoes in almost any form are comfort food. I adore eating out when you eat like you are at someone's mom's house in Tuscany. Many small family trattorias I go to are like that.

For making a lot of roasted potatoes quickly, they don't have time or space to roast all the potatoes at once, so here is the trick.

The potatoes are boiled first and then roasted off to have a crunchy finish at the end before serving.

TIPS:
Boil the potatoes in their skins in salted water.
Let cool.
Peel and spread the cut boiled potatoes on a cookie sheet.

Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

Add chopped sage leaves and rosemary.

Let them cook at 350 degrees until the turn golden. Then using a spatula, flip and cook until golden on the other side too.

Serve hot!
Each bite has the crispy outside and creamy "mashed potato-like" inside.

The traditional tuscan herbs are rosemary and sage. Finely chopped and mixed with salt,it is also like the porchetta blend, which is mixed with garlic black pepper and fennel to seasons roast pork.

Here is a link to the Tuscan Herb Mixture.

Herbs can be expensive if you keep buying them in those small packages in the grocery store.
Plant some now in your garden. It snowed here last winter and both the plants survived.

Be sure to plant the herbal rosemary and not one for landscaping, which can be too strong for cooking.

Tuscan sage has large leaves and is often used as an appetizer, batter-fried, but the smaller leaved sage is fine.

On the potatoes I simply cut the herbs with scissors and tossed on top for a more rustic look.

Whole sage leaves are also fried in butter and eaten with raviolis. They are the BEST part of ravioli Burro e Salvia, be sure to eat them.

Enjoy!

Keeping Kitchen- Artichokes part 2

2012-04-25T14:30:00.000+02:00

Once you have let the artichokes sit overnight in vinegar, remove them and let them sit for a day to drain, upside down, on a plate.

When they are dry, place then in a jar and cover with olive oil.

It's important to leave the open to remove any air in the jars. Hit the jars against the table several times and using a knife or fork, press down on the artichokes to remove any air bubbles.

Once the jars have "rested" to remove any air, you can cover them and store then until ready to eat.

They are too acidic to eat right away, so save them for at least 3 months and the vinegar and oil blend.
The crisp artichoke hearts are really a surprise for everyone and worth making!

Wait until they are at the end of the season and cheap and your Keeping Kitchen Pantry will be so happy!

Keeping Kitchen- Artichokes

2012-04-19T21:03:00.001+02:00

When shopping at the market, as I mentioned, we first enjoy all the the seasons best fresh. As the season goes on, then prices start to drop and we think about buying in quantity and putting up the excess for another season.

I saw the first tiny "baby" artichokes at the market yesterday. Usually I would just clean these and make a nice raw artichoke carpaccio with some shaved parmesan cheese.

I first learned to make my preserved artichoke hearts from several vendors at Florence's San Lorenzo Market.

When I began shopping at the Mercato Centrale, the vegetable vendors were located upstairs. Three years ago, they moved the vendors outside in a large tent while they were restoring the upstairs. Just this year, they have moved all the vendors back into the market, but relocating them downstairs among the other stands, filling the market up again.

Of the original vendors, there are few of the original older ones left. Here are the "Zie", the Aunts.

Gianni's Aunt's

When I began shopping at the market, in 1988, I was collecting recipes everywhere I shopped.

These ladies cracked me up, as they disagreed on everything. I have found with all my recipe research, that if you ask 10 people for a recipe you will get at least 11 different ways to prepare it.

Recipes change not only from region to region but from neighborhood to neighborhood.

baby artichokes from the market, the first of the season

My current winning recipe for preserving these baby artichokes is from Leo Piazzesi. Leo has retired from the market, but his recipe for Carciofi Sott'Olio lives on on my site!

Here is what I did today.

Take each artichoke and remove the tough outer leaves, until you see the pale yellow "heart"

Trim off the pointy tips, leaving the artichoke "heart".

Trim the stem and you have a perfect artichoke heart, ready to preserve.

As I cleaned the artichokes, one by one, I placed them in water with lemon juice so they wouldn't turn dark.

When the artichokes are all done, drain off the water.

Cover the artichokes with red wine vinegar and salt. Leave overnight.

This "pickles" the artichoke hearts.

Tomorrow I will drain them, place in a jar and cover with a light olive oil for the keeping kitchen.
They need to rest to lose some of the vinegar "bite".
But these are fabulous because they keep their crunch.

Usually at the end of each season, when the artichokes are really inexpensive, I do about 350 of them.

Thanks to Leo and the "Zie" these recipes will live on.

Here is Leo's recipe for the artichokes.
Once you learn to clean the artichokes, there is also a fried artichoke recipe from my mother-in-law.

Welcome to our Keeping Kitchen

2012-04-14T17:11:00.001+02:00

Spring is arriving slowly here in Tuscany, the hills are turning a patchwork of velvety green with rolling hills of wheat and dotted with yellow colza plants.

The vines are budding and trees are filling out with leaves. It is my favorite season,but also because our little vegetable gardens are coming to life.

My friend Kate in France, my soul sister in the kitchen and I have decided to celebrate the culinary traditions of our adopted homes by creating a special blog post, Keeping Kitchen, to gather the seasonal ways to celebrate.

Two Kitchens. Two Chefs. Two Countries.

Years ago we did the same with pork on our Whole Hog Blog when we presented a panel for the IACP convention with Fergus Henderson.

This year we have chosen to honor the farmers, gardeners and foragers.
We will be cooking and preserving as the seasons inspire us. Join us if you feel inspired and leave links in the comments sections to your discoveries.

My own garden is a little slow, we have planted peas, potatoes, artichokes and zucchini. The tiny chili peppers are just sprouting.

we planted more peas this year as they were so incredible last year

Until my own little garden, orto, is ready, I am blessed to be able to buy from local farmers at the weekly markets. I have not gone foraging this season, but it is on my list. The fields are filled with edible greens and wild asparagus now.

fava beans, new garlic, artichokes and two kinds of asparagus

Inspiration comes from the markets. Fresh tender fava beans in their plump pods, young green garlic, the tender purple artichokes and pencil thin asparagus.

When they first appear in the market, they are called primizie. Honoring their freshness, they are usually eaten as is, often raw or lightly cooked.

Raw artichokes are a real treat in Tuscany. After removing the tough outer leaves, we trim off the tops and then shave the artichokes into thin slices and serve as a carpaccio topped with thin slices of parmesan, olive oil and lemon juice. Cutting the artichokes into larger pieces, they can be dipped into olive oil seasoned with salt, pepper and vinegar as a dipping sauce. This is pinzimonio. Other vegetables to serve like this are fennel, young spring onions, carrots and bell peppers. I find it funny that Italians don't eat zucchini raw!

Later in the season as the plants get older, cooking them is necessary. One of the local specialties is a stew called garmugia. A rich stew of asparagus, fava beans, artichokes and peas. The base is sauteed new green garlic and pancetta.

I am also looking in my garden and things that are gifted by nature and what I can do with them.

Borrage leaves and flowers are great in salad

Both the poppy blossom and petals can be used

I have been collecting recipes for years, both in book form and from the voices of my vendors. Priceless wisdom and secrets that I will share with you. These are the treasures we discover daily.

Join us in celebrating the seasons and preserving them for later in the year.
Share you recipes in the comment section.

May our pantries grow!

Home again - Tuscany

2012-04-10T20:48:00.000+02:00

red tuscan poppies

I left Tuscany with blossoms ready to bloom and came back to full-on spring in my own garden. Now to get back into the kitchen and start creating and preserving.

borage blossoms, you can eat them and also the leaves

flowering thyme

first pea pods are starting to form

We also just removed the saffron bulbs from the ground.We will separate the bulbs and replant in fall when we finish harvesting the tomatoes.

the dry saffron bulbs- waiting for fall

This is my favorite time of year, as winter's drab colors fall away and the hills fill with various shades of green, covering the hill like velvet.

We are expecting some rain, which is much needed, but not so good for fotographs.

I am heading down to the weekly market tomorrow and can't wait to shop and get back in my kitchen and cook up some spring treasures!

Stay tuned!

Diva on the Road- New York for IACP

2012-04-04T13:59:00.002+02:00

Once a year there is a culinary conference in America with IACP, where it is my opportunity to connect with other culinary professionals and I ADORE IT.

I haven't been in two years and was great to come to New York, where I have never really been, to attend the conference.

Here is the view from my room.

We stayed just down the street from Times Square which was really larger than life and passing through at night, was like being there in the daytime there were so many LIGHTS!

I was in culture shock for most of the week. I really had never been to New York and was overwhelmed. There were so many places I would have love to gone. I would have loved to just stroll down the streets in the smaller neighborhoods and get the feel of what it is like to live here.

BUT.

Insteaad I was in conference sessions learning new things all day long and evening events. We did manage to sneak in a couple of quick nice lunches, but not leisurely lunches.

I was thrilled to be learning from so many fabulous people. One of my favorite moments was listening to two of my inspirations for entering the food world, Jacque Pepin and Molly Katzen.

Meeting your culinary icons is just one part of IACP, it is also being with a thousand people that have the same passion and frustrations about our food world.

We have panel discussions--- which are thought provoking and when I leave IACP I am always so wound up with ideas. This year I was inspired by Marcus Samuelson at the opening panel and later on in the week attended a panel with Ruth Reichl and Grant Achatz. WOW. I SOOOO want to go and eat at his restaurant now. When you hear someone explain their thought process about creating their menu's, recipes and visions, that is what makes me hungry.

While in NY I took a cab over to visit my friends Justin and Todd over at Speedy Romeo in Brooklyn. Before they opened, we spent a week travelling around Italy to let Justin meet the masters of pizza, mozzarella and meat. He opened a grill and forno restaurant. The place was PACKED and food was fabulous.

I love taking classes "outside" of my box- and took a lot of new media sessions, workshops on MEAT and new cutting techniques, you know my passion for butchers!

Was thrilled to meet Adam Sappington at a demo on lamb.

I will write more about my inspiration from the conference later--- was so overwhelming it needs time to sink in. Didn't really get time to see New York much, but that will be for another trip.

Now I am in Providence, Rhode Island with client/friends and part vacation with one cooking class they organized for me. So I already had a lobster roll and home-made clam chowder. Today we will go around shopping and then prep for class tomorrow. I am leaving out of Boston so we will overnight there and then I am home for Easter dinner!

Now to go get my AMERICAN fixes! We had a wonderful burger yesterday and I had my root beer!
Watched a marathon of Food Network and saw Chopped for the first time!

this is the sterling silver heart i gave to Justin at Speedy Romeo, it is by the pizza oven

The BEST part of the conference was hearing from chefs and people I admire that they read my blog!
I know there are more people reading it than I realize ( another reason for the new media classes is to understand the Google analytics). Some loved the pasta recipes others the foto's of Italy.

I met Michael Ruhlman and he said he read my blog! maybe just being nice, but it was nice!

I ADORE when someone leaves a message-- so please leave comments and suggestions about what you would like to see more of.

I will be writing more this year. As some of you know I am more often posting foto's on FB, to not overload the site with posts!

Get your taste of italy from Divina Cucina! Stop by FB and friend me too!!

Edible Florence- La Cucina del Garga

2012-03-20T21:56:00.000+01:00

Sometimes in Florence, we always go back to the same local trattoria where we know we have great food. Often, there is no real reason to risk a meal.

Then there is a reason to go just a little out of your way.

La Cucina del Garga is one of those reasons.

Alessandro and Corrado- we had a incredible private lunch- lucky ladies

Part of Florence's culinary history was located on via del moro, Trattoria Garga, run by artist Giuliano Gargani and his Canadian wife Sharon Oddson. Wildly painted walls and twisted Tuscan recipes were their trademark.

Giuliano and Sharon's son Alessandro left Florence and spent 7 years in New York, honing his skills and is now back in Florence with his wife to raise his children where he grew up.

holding the dough for his homemade foccaccia

Alessandro has created La Cucina del Garga, his own space, located just a few blocks up from the San Lorenzo Market in Florence.

I went when it first opened and had a fabulous lunch with clients and we went back just yesterday and was pleased to see that the restaurant is now decorated with art by Giuliano and his friends, bringing the warmth and craziness that was Garga, to Alessandro's new place.

a classic tuscan dish, with the "garga" twist. Eggs cooked on pappa al pomodoro

The Old Garga is closed now and Alessandro is carrying in on the family tradition with his own touch.

fabulous chicken liver crostini with orange zest

artichoke salad

If you are in Florence and want a break from the classic meals- please stop by Garga and you will be spoiled rotten and have a a fabulous meal to remember. If you like, have them plan a tasting menu like we had, with dishes to share.

La Cucina del Garga

via san zanobi,33/A
florence
055/475-286

make reservations

DO NOT SKIP DESSERT!

Farm to Table--- creating a recipe with Saba

2012-03-15T17:29:00.005+01:00

I was recently invited to participate in a blogger online event, using SABA, from the Azienda Mariotti and the Gusto Ferrara site, invited by my friend Rosella from Rome.

Saba is the cooked down wine must, which concentrates all the flavors into a sweet syrup.

I have a confession- I am a saba junkie! I have several bottles from various trips all around Italy where i have found regional versions. Vin cotto is another name and sometimes it is made with figs instead of grapes (Puglia).

Most often I have had saba drizzled in fried desserts, used like honey.

Saba, or cooked wine must, is also how traditional balsamic vinegar is made. The grape juice is cooked down slowly over night and then the saba is saved in wooden barrels for a period of at least 12 years, moving it yearly as it concentrates down. Needless to say, that explains why traditional balsamic vinegar is expensive.

But Saba is for everyone and everyday use.

For my recipe I decided to use it as part of my onion jam recipe to serve along side of cheese.

Since Roman times, sheep's milk cheese have been served with honey and pepper. Years ago, more than 10 I believe, I was working at the Macelleria Cecchini, and introduced Dario to Red Pepper Jelly. There was no Philidelfia cream cheese in Italy at the time, so I started serving it with pecorino cheese. A new trend was started in Italy. Now there are several companies producing jams and jellies to serve with a cheese course. My little claim to fame in Italy as the creator or Mostarda Mediterranea at the Macelleria!

In staying local, I visited a nearby farm to get some of their sheep's milk cheese.

happy sheep make fabulous cheese

I adore driving up the hill and seeing the lovely herd of sheep grazing out in the Tuscan countryside and then heading down the dirt road and knocking on grandma's door. She opens the shop for us and we stick up on the goodies, the fresher cheese for grilling, a aged one to have after the meal and some of their home made salami.

"roasting cheese"

some of the cheeses ready to sell

Back to my kitchen,using the local red onions, part of the slow food protected foods, and slowly stewed them using the mosto to caramelize the onions with brown sugar and one of my home-grown chili peppers.

Warm cheese and a savory but sweet onion jam is a lovely light meal or a appetizer.

Marmellata di Cipolla con Saba
Onion jam with saba

3 large red onions, sliced thinly
4tbs brown sugar
1/4 cup Saba
1/4 cup vinegar
1 Chili pepper( or to taste)
Olive oil or butter

Saute the onions slowly in olive oil or butter until lightly translucent.
Add the chili pepper and saute.
Add the brown sugar, vinegar and saba and turn up the heat to allow the onions to caramelize, stirring constantly, adding water if the jam gets too thick.

The cheese is lightly grilled on a hot skillet, until a light crust forms. Using a spatual, carefully turn the cheese. Serve with the crispy crust and drizzle with some extra saba.

This is also great with meats.

Grazie mille!!!

Divina Cucina-- in Paris

2012-03-10T21:39:00.003+01:00

One of the wonderful things about living in Italy is how easy it is to travel around Europe-- time and money permitting. Until recently, I had not had the opportunity to return to Paris.

My grandfather was born outside of Paris in a small village called Soisson. I studied French and always felt France was calling my name. I tried on five trips to see if i could feel like I could call it home with my first trip being in 1972. It just never felt like home.

But I adore it. Sometimes it is the simplest things that make me love it-French breakfast!


croissants, baquettes and french butter

I adore croissant, baquettes and french butter for breakfast! Actually bread and butter could sustain me here. Tuscan unsalted bread and unsalted butter just lie flat on my palate.

The one thing my husband Andrea asked me to bring back from my trip was a baquette-- I MUST also bring back butter.

The reason I came to Paris,was that several events fell into place that sent me a sign from above.
First I heard about the Paris Cookbook Fair and knew several friends would be attending and that would be a great excuse to come. The it coinsided with the celebration of the Charcutapalooza party for Peter, the winner, offered by Truffle Pig, Mrs Wheelbarrow, D'Artagnan and Kate Hill.
Some of my favorite bloggers and writers would be there too.

The stars lined up!


got my tattoo

Before I came to Paris I was contacted on FB by a new "Friend" who was having an exhibit at the fair on SWEDISH products-- yet another fabulous reason to go!

My new Swedish friends---- a fabulous company searching for the finest artisan products.

Sometimes the stars line up even better than we expected! Since I am on my search for the perfect swedish dishes and ingredients- this was a gift to meet!

No trip to Paris would be perfect without Pastry- I am not a huge fan of macarons, but do love a fabulous pastry. My friend Rosa Jackson was in town updating her paris dining guide and took me to Jacque Genin. WOW- Perfect!

This was his version of the St. Honore cake- each little bigne was a different flavor, salt caramel, chocolate and vanilla-- even the whipped cream and the custard both had pure vanilla!

We had a lovely pot of tea and split the dessert, I bought caramels, gelatins and small box of chocolates for Andrea.

It was also a lovely time to see friends-


Kate Hill from Gascony, David Lebovitz- Paris and moi!!!

It was a pleasure to spend some time with David and Kate , just doing nothing. A fun walk, a nice Vietnamese lunch and incredible Algherian Pastries for dessert with mint tea, another thing I really don't get in Tuscany. France is so much more multi- cultural!

Now back to reality-- and Tuscany!

Next up-- IACP in New York at the end of the month-- then returning back to Tuscany Easter Sunday and the season begins!

What are you having for Easter dinner? Me? airplane food!!!! not looking forward to that.

And to close-- this is the PERFECT Parisian foto!


while waiting in line at Pierre Herme chocolate shop

Au Revoir

Divina Cucina on the Road- Aosta

2012-03-06T11:02:00.001+01:00

I felt a little like Heidi when I arrived at the lovely Hotel Villagio in Aosta. My friends Giuliana and Marco had invited me up to cook for a small party for their friends, presenting the renovations which they did on the hotel.

The hotel has a few rooms in the hotel itself, but also has several lovely little chalets. The mountain you see in the backround was what we saw from our bedroom.

I had never been to Aosta and was amazed at the rocky hillsides, quite impressive.

Stefano was my personal shopper, helping me to get everything for the party. It would have been impossible to have managed on my own. One of my greatest fears when cooking somewhere else, is accessing the ingredients. Planning menu's without knowing what is actually available puts a special spin on catering.

The small little party for 20 grew into a larger evening for 50, so i recalculated and was ready to rock!

the boys unloading the goodies

The menu:

Smoked salmon on swedish dark bread with homemade sour cream and dill
Smoked swordfish cones : french laundry style
Ricotta and thyme sformata
Smoked herring with green apple and orange, crostini

Cheese table with Tuscan cheeses from Corzano e Paterno
served with spiced nuts, dried apple chips, red onion jam and spicy sicilian tomato jam

Followed by:

Pappa al Pomodoro with EVO
Spinach soup with a quail egg garnish
Chicken Kebab with a Savory dipping sauce

Sweets:
Cream cheese mousse
Mini crumble
Cremino served melted with Evo and sea salt

To go:

My cookbook and a apple crumble cooked in a jar.

More on our visit to Aosta later--- can't wait to return!

Busy- Busy- Busy- Spring is Here!

2012-02-26T13:04:00.000+01:00

The snow is gone. My pulled muscle or whatever it was is healed. The sun is shining and all is well in the world.

Just when you think you can't take winter anymore, spring sticks out it's little head and gives you a kick in the pants. It is amazing what sunshine and longer days can do for one's outlook on life.

As usual, Tuscany comes out of hibernation and everyone seems to be ready to get out and about again.

Most of us working in a business that focuses around tourism are stuck at our computers in winter, planning and setting up programs. Most of that needs to be done at least 6 months to a year ahead of time.

Finally all one's planning which is like planting seeds, seeing them sprout and grow is the best part.

Like our pea plants which survived the snow and are now growing, my tours are filling up and ready to grow too!

My Sicily tours in May and September are filled and I am doing another private tour in late fall for another group of friends.

My Puglia tour in June still has space. I am so excited to finally be taking people down to Puglia. We will be based in one of my favorite villages, Alberobello, and staying in restored Trulli, the typical dwellings with the cone-shaped roof. Antonello and Laura of Southern Visions have put together a fun program where we visit producers and then cook with the products. Local, regional and traditional.

Hope you can come and join me.

I was invited to a fun private dinner at the Officina della Bistecca at Dario's in Panzano with Alessandro Bellini of Viola imports and some of his suppliers that are friend's of mine too! Andrea of Aceto Balsamico San Giacomo, Cristiano and his dad Luciano of Savini Truffles and Alberto who produces Giachi Extra Virgin Olive oil. Another friend came too, Gioni from Pruneti. It was a blast and I am so happy to know so many people that have a passion for what they do. My greatest pleasure is when I can introduce my students to these great products in class and on my longer programs actually take them to meet my friends.

It makes such a difference when you understand what goes into making a quality product and how it really changes the outcome of a recipe.

I drive a used car, I live in a tiny home, we only have one car. But we try to buy quality food.

I have adapted to the simple life here in Italy, following my husbands way of living, often less is more.
I basically came here at thirty years old with nothing. We have nice life and tons of time together as my husband is my sherpa, personal assistant, house husband and driver. Without him, I could not do what I do.

This year I am attending a couple of culinary events which will kick off spring, first heading to paris to the Cookbook fair and while there will hook-up with my good friend Kate Hill and meet Cathy, one of the women that started the fun Charcutapalooza event last year. We will be celebrating with the winner and my friend Jack from TrufflePig will be there as well as some other fun people I have never met!

Then off to New York for IACP, the annual culinary event I try to get to. So a fun week of catching up will old friends, meeting new friends and learning some new tricks!

I am taking of tomorrow to cater a party for friends in their lovely hotel in Val D'Aosta and will be helping them with their new project, a bistro in their hotel.

Meanwhile, the markets are getting greener and greener. Spring is my favorite time as the veggies start to overlap, winter greens and spring greens together at the same time.

Probably one of my favorite winter greens, happens to be a specialty in Puglia. Broccoli rape. Bitter greens with tiny bits of broccoli stems.

Broccoli Rape Pasta Sauce

Clean the plant, removing thick stems and then parboil in salted water.

Drain.
I like to then chop the greens up into smaller pieces and use for a pasta sauce.

Slice some garlic (italians really hardly use much, i would do just one) and warm in the oil.
Add one or two anchovy filets ( I like the ones packed in oil, they should be soft, not like cardboard!)
They will melt in the hot oil.

Then add the greens and they will absorb all this fabulous intense flavor.

Traditionally served with the flour and water pasta, Orecchiette.

Boil the pasta in salted water, drain and add to the pan with the sauce and let cook together to flavor.

Maybe a nice glass of NegroAmaro from Puglia?

Enjoy!!!
The same trick of parboiling the vegetables then tossing in the pan with garlic, olive oil and chili pepper will make anyone love vegetables! So you can use as a side dish or as a pasta sauce.

Practice and let me know!

Berlingaccio and surviving the snow

2012-02-16T16:22:00.000+01:00

When I first came to Italy, it was in September of 1984. That winter was one of the coldest and snowiest winters, which caused the olive trees to freeze and we lost thousands of trees which then sprouted back up from the trunks.

This year may be worse than that winter of 1985.

We were blocked in the house for 10 days ( we don't have chains for our car) and lost our running water for 4 days. Not fun! But, we did have electricity and heat. The pantry was full and we survived.

We were hit lightly compared to those living up in Piemonte and those in Le Marche area and Abruzzo.
Counting our blessings.

The snow is just barely on the hills now, most of it melted and daytime temps are rising. It is still quite cold at night.

The month has been flying by and I missed going to the Carneval in Viareggio to see the floats.
But the one thing I haven't missed are the once a year sweets for carnevale.

This winter I am in the kitchen testing recipes for a friends new restaurant I am consulting for, so we bought both cenci and frittelle di riso. Here is my Russian grandmother's recipe for her "cenci" and my recipe for rice fritters. Both recipes make enough for family and friends, as this is party food!

Today is the beginning of the end of carnevale, called "berlingaccio". The last parades will be this weekend and then we have Martedi Grasso ( Mardi Gras) and Ash Wednesday ( Mercoledi delle Cenere) when Lent starts.

I always think it is funny, Italians have a special cookie for Lent too, called Quaresimali. Quaresima means Lent.

Since we were out getting sweets, on our way home from Florence today we stopped at one of Florence's oldest pastry shops, Gualtieri, famous for his Iris Cake. The recipe is only made there and has been kept a secret for over 100 years.

Enjoy your week of Carnevale where ever you are- and whip up some sweets to celebrate.

Saba Contest

2012-02-07T10:47:00.003+01:00

There nothing more exciting than being involved in a food blog and tasting a product.

I was just invited by my friend Rossella of Ma che ti sei mangiato?. Which translates to- "But what did you just eat?" and Andrea from Percorsi di Vino, wine blog.

Here is the announcement in Italian- 20 bloggers will receive bottles of saba to create new recipes.

We will be sent a bottle of SABA, which is grape juice, cooked slowly until it becomes a thick rich essence. Saba is what you need to make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, but can be used as is.

Most people use saba to drizzle on gelato or fried dough desserts after they are made. When I was just in Puglia, they also have a type of saba called vin cotto. Most often it is made from grape juice, but I have also had it from figs.

We will be trying the saba offered by Mirco Mariotti which his family winery makes and the Consorzio Gusto del Ferrara.

Doing my research, traditionally it is served with Sabadone, a dessert raviolo made for St Paul's patron saint day, January 25th in Massalombarda. Looks like I missed the festival this year, but the recipe sounds fun! The raviolo has a chestnut filling with other ingredients.

Looking forward to seeing what we can create with the Saba. I will try the ravioli's for sure and then some recipes of my own. In Puglia they served their Vin Cotto with a fried pastry called Cartellate.

Follow the blog to see what I create with my saba!

any ideas?

World Nutella Day - Simple Italian Classic

2012-02-05T15:19:00.001+01:00

Today is World Nutella Day---- started by Sara and Michelle in 2007. It has gone wild!

I am not a huge Nutella fan. It is too sweet. It is not on my normal shopping list of things to buy, except when they come in the cute glasses that are meant to be reused! Those I adore.

love the sponge bob ones!

My husband, as most Italians, grew up with this hazelnut-chocolate combination, often made into chocolates called Gianduia. It is especially famous up in the area of Piemonte, where the hazelnuts come from.

In keeping with my keep it simple theme for this year, one of the basic Italian joys in simple eating is bread and chocolate. A simple piece broken off a chocolate bar eaten with a piece of bread.

In Tuscany, our rustic unsalted bread is perfect for this. That I let my husband have!

For me, I made it a little more grown-up, adding a sprinkling of sea salt.

Taking it even one step farther, a local chocolate company treated me to a real special grown-up version a year or so ago.

They took a slice of a cremino, which is a firm gianduia, the hazelnut and chocolate combination which inspired Nutella, and placed slices on the bread and put it under the broiler.
Before serving, they drizzled it with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkled it with salt.
WOW, it knocked my socks off!!!

I had my first Nutella- salt epiphany from a young boy at his grandmother's, Agnese, bread bakery. Agnese is famous for her bread made with a "mother" that is over 100 years old. I was first taken to this bakery by Faith Willinger on one of her fabulous food days. The bread has an incredible depth of flavor and lasts a week, so is sold as a huge loaf or she also makes the traditional schiacchiata, the Tuscan foccaccia, finished off by brushing the top with extra virgin olive oil and salt.

Hot from the oven, he ran into the house, tore the bread open an slathered it with Nutella.
Heaven, if you have the chance. try it on hot salty focaccia.

As I was leaving the kitchen, I noticed my husband had gone shopping ( we have been snow-bound for a week) and had bought bananas. My favorite snack growing up was peanut butter and bananas. Inspiration hit and as a last simple treat, I sliced some bananas on top of the Nutella.

I stopped here. But I am dreaming. I do have a secret stash of peanut butter. What about slathering the bread with peanut butter, then bananas, and then heat up the Nutella and drizzle on top?

Buon World Nutella Day!

Last year I did Frittelle di Riso and a homemade nutella
and the year before Fried Nutella Ravioli

Snow days! Schools Closed!

2012-02-01T13:09:00.000+01:00

They say that we are getting the coldest winter spell in 30 years.

Time to make soups!

my little backyard

We are snowed in so will have to make do with what is in the house. Andrea was smart enough to pick all the lettuce from the garden before the snowfall, so that is safe.

We will have to search out leftovers in the freezer, hoping that the electricity doesn't go out. Was flasing on and off this morning. If it goes off we are also without heat.

I am feeling better, but still haven't tried to do the stairs yet to head into the kitchen.

But as soon as I do----

SOUP!!!

it is time to make my mother-in-law's Minestrone!

Join me!!! It is a sort of clean the fridge soup!

Each mamma and each region have their own minestrone, some with pumpkin, various greens, with or without beans.

I adore them all.

Niente

2012-01-30T16:45:00.000+01:00

It has been a tough week, when I came back from Rome-- I was basically hobbling along. I had pulled a muscle or tendon and bedrest was required. It is so boring.

So this week no cooking, no fotos. NOTHING.

Thought I would just post a lovely painting from the hotel where we stay in Sicily during my tours there.

I could use a third leg about now.

The light outside my window has been lovely and we are expecting snow this week. Hoping it won't kill the pea shoots which have already started to spring up. Andrea has planted a whole bed of just peas.

As I lay in bed, playing around on the computer, I have fallen in love with Pinterest. If you look I have put a link to my boards on the top right of the site.

Hope to be back in my kitchen soon!

Passion for Pizza- BONCI

2012-01-23T00:41:00.004+01:00

i couldn't help myself--- when I saw there was another session with Gabrielle Bonci in Rome for pizza workshop- I had to go again!

Larger than life-- with a heart as big as a mountain and a passion for his dough like no other.

He talks so fast and is so full of great ideas that really one needs to take the class twice to have it all soak in. This session some friends came with me and we had our own little corner.

kim, andrea, me and terry

The reason we came to class was to learn the secrets of the perfect pizza dough-- for the roman style pizza al taglio from the master himself. With only three ingredients, they must all be of the highest quality. Gabriele told us of the "trinity" flour, water and yeast. But truly the secret ingredient is TIME.

Time to let the dough develop.

I usually hate pizza as it sits in my stomach for days after. That is the result of people rushing dough.

my dough after 12 hour rising

We used flour from Mulino Marino, Bonci's favorite, but where ever you are he suggested a stone ground organic flour for the best results.

inspired pizza toppings- so untraditional

With 14 students in the class, we made a ton of dough which then turned into a ton of pizza's, plus Gabriele had already also prepared a lot of dough to demonstrate different preparations with the dough, we even baked a whole chicken, a boneless rolled stuffed rabbit and whole artichokes.

BE CREATIVE

STAY HUNGRY

whole artichokes roasted in dough

Between classes we did a morning market tour and lunch with Elizabeth Minchilli author of the great food APPS EAT ROME and EAT FLORENCE. We had a great day!

Our pizza crusts were like palettes for an artistic creation! Not only lovely to look at but made with fabulous seasonal ingredients- how can you go wrong!

Next, back to practicing my dough and will write-up my home experiments.

here is a link from one of the other classes I took with Bonci and another link.

My friend elizabeth did a video too from the first class we took together, which has the recipe if you want to try this at home.

Diva's Dirty Little Secret- Gnocchi in 10 minutes

2012-01-19T10:44:00.001+01:00

I am not a kitchen Nazi. I also use short-cuts when I can or teach people how to make life easier and simpler. One of my favorite tricks in the kitchen I learned living here is to use instant mashed potatoes for gnocchi.

I had bought some incredibly tender potato gnocchi in the grocery store and reading the label to see what the ingredient list was, noted they used mashed potato flakes. So simple.

Italian mashed potato flakes are really fabulous and I use them a lot for a quick side dish, so I thought, why not try.

The secret is to only use the water as the liquid to basically rehydrate the flakes into a mashed potato and not add the milk, which then makes "mashed potatoes". OK?

It would take an hour to boil a WHOLE potato in the skin in salted water for the traditional recipe.

Most recipes I have seen also add an egg. I don't use an egg.

I think one of the reasons most people make heavy gnocchi is they end up adding too much flour.

Right now I am on my way down to Rome to take a pizza class with Gabrielle Bonci of Pizzarium like I did last January. So will just give you a basic idea to play with on how to make my gnocchi, which basically is how people give you recipes here, spoken with no real measurements.

Divina Cucina Gnocchi

Here the maskhed potato flakes come in a box in packages. I use two packages for about 4-6 people as a first course.

Each package says to use 300ml of water. I salt the water and bring to a boil and then stir in the flakes. Once i have the rehydrated potato mixture I put in on the work space to cool.

This lets extra steam out and cools it down.

I start with about a cup of Italian 00 flour, which is like a pastry flour in America, delicate and low gluten. I knead the flour into the potato until it is not sticky.

You may need more flour, sometimes I just need to flour the tabletop I am working on.
( yes you can use a bowl)

Meanwhile bring a pot of water to boil to cook the gnocchi, add salt.

Roll out a test rope of the gnocchi mixture, and cut into small pieces and if you like roll on the back of a fork to create ridges, which let the sauce stick to the gnocchi better and at the same time you are creating a little belly button on the other side, which makes it thinner and cook faster.

Drop some test gnocchi into the water ( turn it down from a hard boil).

The gnocchi will float to the top when they are done.
DO NOT LET THEM SIT IN THE WATER TOO LONG!

Take them out of the water with a strainer, draining off excess water. I lightly press to see if they are firm enough and not slimy. If they are perfect, then I roll out the other gnocchi and start cooking.

I like to have my sauce already made and in a skillet, where the gnocchi can stay hot.

As you layer, you can also sprinkle with some parmesan cheese and lightly stir to cover with sauce.

I usually do a simple garlic and chili infused tomato sauce that cooks in the time it takes to boil the water for the gnocchi.

A great recipe to teach kids and was perfect for this family class!

Rolling your own is a blast.

If the dough is too wet, add a little more flour.
Don't form all the gnocchi until you have poached a test gnocchi.

Keep the sauce simple.

Brown butter and parmesan
Tomato
Pesto
Gorgonzola

The basket you see in the foto is from Calabria and is for putting ridges on gnocchi- then I flipped it over to use to take the gnocchi to the pot to cook.

Another IMPORTANT detail- DO NOT COOK ALL THE GNOCCHI AT ONCE

They cook quickly and you can weight them down so they don't rise up to the top and then they will overcook and get water-logged.

Cook in small batches.

Let me know how your's turn out!

Enjoy

A for Eggplant? Aubergine!

2012-01-11T18:00:00.002+01:00

Recently on an expat forum, someone threw out that it would be fun to get ideas on something different to cook, asking friends for recipes.

The Gastro-Casa Throw down in on---- Something starting with an A--- I said almonds..... but aubergine came out. We are almost all American so I am not sure who really calls eggplant aubergine in America or Americans living in Italy, but I am game.

I adore eggplants in anyway I can get them, but right now I am craving strange flavors and went for an easy Baba Ganoosh recipe.

As is in my style, I made it easy.

I don't salt or do anything to my eggplant, I didn't slow roast it and then let it sit in a bag.

I simply cut it, skin and all, into small cubes and sauteed in olive oil with garlic and salt.

When soft, I let it cool and pureed with tahini, lemon, olive oil and some water.

My husband who hates eggplant adored it, so much I made it two times in one week.

Simple Baba Ganoush

1 eggplant, cut into small cubes
2 cloves of garlic, sliced
Extra virgin olive oil
salt (to taste)
2 tbs Tahini sauce
juice of a lemon ( to taste)
water to thin

Saute the eggplant cubes and garlic in olive oil, I like to use a lot as eggplant soaks up quite a bit.
Add salt,this will bring some of the water out of the eggplant and also add flavor.
Stir to cook evenly.

Let cool.

Puree with the tahini, lemon juice, more olive oil.
Add a little water to create a smooth sauce.

For a little kick I also add chili into the mix but you can also serve on the side or sprinkle on top.
I think it tastes better then next day when the flavors have blended.

Pretending I was having an "arab" meal, I bought pita and made a "Carrot" falafel, using a recipe from Abruzzo.

200 grams carrots, grated
200 grams breadcrumbs
1/2 cup grated parmesan
4 eggs
salt to taste

mix everything together and make "Falafel" and pan fry until golden on both sides.

To serve my bab ganoush, I toasted some pinenuts and added warmed extra virgin olive oil and some ground chipolte pepper I have in my pantry.

Here are some more Italian eggplant recipes I have online:

Grilled Eggplant
Naples Chocolate Eggplant dessert
Caponata
Sicilian Caponata
Eggplant Timballo - foto

I LOVE EGGPLANT
enjoy