Robert asked

My hot water washer hose is corroded and will not come off. I tried WD 40 and a pipe wrench, but I don’t want to bust the copper pipe. Any suggestions?

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Robert, The first way to loosen the hose from the supply is to carefully heat the hose connector. Try a hair dryer or a propane torch.Turn off the water. If you do use a torch you will want to fold up several layers of foil and place it as a background behind the hose and water supply to keep the wall or box etc from heating up or catching fire. Next, heat the hose connector up a bit, then secure the copper supply, so it can’t move, with vise grips. Use some channel locks or a pipe wrench to loosen the hose connector.

If you feel uncomfortable with this STOP and try the following.

Take a hack saw, or just it’s blade, and cut the hose connector perpendicular to the connector just to weaken the connector. Then loosen.

Let me know how things work out.

The post How to remove a stuck washing machine hose appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

John asked

My question is should I attempt to frame this myself or is this way too difficult. I consider myself fairly handy, but do not have any formal training in framing. I also wondered if the basement should be framed with the aluminum studs and green board since I have a french drain around 3/4 of the basement.

I’m very frustrated at the lack of professionalism with the contractors, and wonder if it is a sign for me to do it myself. Looking for an opinion, what do you think?

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi John, First off, you are right about some contractors being quite frustrating, but my advise regarding your project is to do the framing yourself. It’s not so tough.

Here’s a great book to help you with your whole project. Remodeling a Basement: Expert Advice from Start to Finish.

If you don’t have all the right tools let me know and I’ll be happy to help you find what you’ll need.
Also I’d use treated 2x4s for your bottom plates and just hold your drywall 1/2″ off the floor and that should be fine.

Is your basement floor concrete? If so what type of flooring are you going to use? Let me know and I’ll give you a few tips on insulating and type of flooring.

Remember to take plenty of pictures, as it’s great to look back on how and what you’ve accomplished.

The post To frame or not to frame appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Rudy asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Rudy,

Anchors are not really appropriate for hanging ceiling fans as fans are quite heavy. 

If there isn’t an electrical box already mounted in the ceiling then a fan support bracket should be installed.

The fan support bracket should be installed between two of the ceiling rafters. Once properly installed, the fan can be safely mounted to the electrical box/bracket.

The post How to Safely Hang a Ceiling Fan appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Jay asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Jay, I’ve had that same thing happen too. The best solution is to screw through the broken anchor into the stud. If that isn’t possible, for some reason, then use a pair of small needle nose pliers to remove the anchor.

Once removed drill a pilot hole in the stud and secure your rack. 

Let me know how things work out.

The post How to remove a broken EZ-anchor appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Roy asked

Project:
Expand back porch/patio area to create more “hard” surface for seating, eating, and cooking.

Current Status:
Standard 8’x12′ concrete slab off rear single kitchen door.

I have always wanted to do something with a mix of red and light gray (color of concrete) pavers to expand the patio area, mainly to avoid all concrete blandness or to have to tear up the current slab.

While watching Desperate Landscapes, it was suggested to build up the side areas of an existing patio and actually place pavers over the slab (of course place a layer of leveling sand down first.) Sounds like a great solution.

My question is, will this raise the level up too close to the door stoop? How much clearance is recommended or required from the bottom of the door frame/opening to the top of the pavers? I am concerned with water coming in during hard rains (I’m outside of Atlanta so snow is not a concern.)

Thank you

DIY Answer Guy

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Hello Roy, an ambitious project. Good for you, make it a fun time.

Here’s an idea to consider. Use the pavers as a border and acid patina the slab. If you decide to go that way let me know and I’ll get right back to you with the acid patina information and other options available.

Yes, a bed of sand under the pavers is needed.

As far as the patio height to threshold goes that differs per local building codes.
Here in Washington all decks/patios are flush with the threshold. We get a lot of rain!
Since you know how much it rains there you would have a better idea on what the high water level is and go with what you are comfortable with. If you do end up with a step remember it takes a few passes in and out of the house before you learn the step is there.
Careful out there.

Enjoy your project and I’ll bet it comes out great and shows some real character.

Cheers!

The post Expanding patio with pavers. How much clearance is recommended? appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

John asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi John,

Un-faced insulation is usually used in interior walls for sound reduction, in floor joist, over a crawl space and in-between the attic joist. Whereas faced insulation is used on exterior walls. The faced side of the insulation faces the inside of the building and acts as a moisture barrier, in conjunction with a sealed plastic vapor barrier.

Let me know if you have other question or need help planning your DIY projects.

The post Faced or un-faced fiberglass Insulation? appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Rosemary asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Rosemary, It appears that you have done everything correctly so lets see what we can do to remedy the problem.

First shut off the water to the hot hose. 

Remove the hose from the water valve. 

Next, remove the washer from the hose end.

Turn the washer over and re-insert it back into the end of the hose.

Next, apply a few wraps of teflon tape to the water valve threads.

Now, attach the hose to the hot water valve and tighten. 

Don’t over tighten it, just nice and snug.

Now turn on the water and check for leaks.

If it’s still leaking, try tightening it a bit more. 

If it continues to leak, then the washer or hose end is defective. Take the hose back to the store and get a new hose, and install the new hose.

Please let me know how it turns out.

The post How to fix a leaky washing machine hose appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Amanda asked

My house is only a year old, but my carpet looks horrible! There are three spots where my carpet is worn down practically to the pad. I’d like to patch them. How would I do that? One is in the middle of the floor, one is on the seam in a doorway between two carpeted rooms, and the third is on a seam between a carpeted room and a floor with another surface. I do have carpet to do the patches that is the same as the carpet already installed in the house.

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Amanda,

The carpet repairs you’d like to do are possible, but you’ll need a Carpet Seaming Iron and Carpet Seam Tape.

This is one of those projects that I’d leave to a professional, because a bad patch will show up as much as a worn spot. Call a carpet installer to do the work, as it shouldn’t cost much to do and the result will be great.

The post How to repair worn carpet appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Josh asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Josh, That is a puzzle. I have a question first, the new pipe that you are running, is it flex pipe, with ridges, or smooth wall pipe? If it is the flex with ridges that can create a problem down the road with lint build up in the pipe. So use smooth wall only.

Next, if this route is the only way to go then using the 3″ adapter to get through the wall and down to the basement would be my recommendation.

NO silicone. Also, use foil tape to seal any joints you may have.

The whole idea with dryer vents is to provide the shortest, straightest, smoothest route for venting.

I’m sure you’ll do a good job and all will work out. If I can assist further, let me know.

The post How to connect a ridged clothes dryer vent through the wall appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Robyn asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Robyn, That is a tough spot you’re in, but I think we can solve this one.

The screw in the anchor causes the anchor to expand which makes it more difficult to remove, so there may be patching involved.

Here’s how I would remove the wall anchor.

Use needle nose pliers to grab the sides of the anchor. You may have to push the pilers into the wall just a bit to get a grip.

Once you have a grip, slowly turn the anchor counterclockwise. It may be a bit difficult but patience and persistence will pay off.

Once the anchor is out of the wall you can replace it with a new one. You may have to use the next larger size anchor. Or, if you’ve already used the largest anchor of this type then it’s time to patch. Once patched you’ll have to reposition the new anchor.

Pick up a small tub of patching spackel. Use a putty knife to fill the hole.

Don’t worry about getting it perfect as you’ll have to come back to it once it dries, to sand a bit and refill. 

Once the hole is filled, lightly sand and paint.

Let me know how things turn out.

Nice shelf for your violets by the way.

The post How to remove an EZ anchor with the screw head broken off appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Steven asked

Replacement wall anchors would meet the same fate, I believe. If I cut out that weak oval area and replace it with a dry wall patch, will it be strong enough to serve as the support for the towel rack? I do not wish to move the rack to a new location if at all possible, so what do you suggest to repair the wall such that it can be used for that side of the rack support?

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Steven,

The best solution for this situation is to remove all the anchors, cut a hole about 3 inches square where the original anchors were. Cut two pieces of plywood about 3/4 to 1 inch larger than the holes. This will allow you to secure them through the existing drywall on each side with drywall screws.

To hold the plywood in place while you secure it, just put a drywall screw in the middle of the plywood and use it as a handle. Now insert the plywood pieces through the 3 inch hole and secure the plywood with drywall screws.

Be sure that your hole cuts are square and clean, as this will allow for easy patching. Be careful screwing the drywall screws through the existing drywall into the plywood so the heads are just below the surface of the drywall but not breaking the drywall edges.

Once you have secured the plywood with drywall screws patch the holes over the plywood with carefully cut pieces of drywall.

Now apply quick set drywall mud, and let dry. Once dry, sand and mud again, if needed.

Sand once again and paint. Now mount your towel rack.

Now you have a strong backer in which to secure your towel rack.

I know it sounds like a bit of work but the results will be great and you won’t have do it again.

PS; I’ll be posting a video on removing anchors and reinforcing drywall to rehang towel bars, so check back soon.

Cheers

Steven

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Thanks a bunch, Larry!

The post How to reinforce drywall for towel bars appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Roy asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Dawn, You can try cleaning the stains with the muriatic acid, but just do a small out of the way spot and see if it works.

If it doesn’t work then buy a solid body stain that matches the best and try that on a small spot. Use a small rag to try it out. Wear gloves or you’ll be matching your fireplace. 

If the stain does a good job then do the rest using a foam brush. Just remember not to use to much stain in the brush or it will run all over the rest of the fireplace. Slow and steady will give you a good result.

Write me back if you need more help.

The post How to remove or cover water stains on a fireplace appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Brittany asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Brittany, Excellent find. What will you make of it? Anyway, about securing it to a base, is the inside hard or foam? I’ll need to know that then I can tell you how to secure it to a base. Let me know.

Brittany

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Thanks, Mr. Larry!

I’m trying to make a torso mannequin like fashion designers use, but I need it to stand up tall so I can work with it. The inside is hard and the overall object is kind of heavy. I believe it might be a type of fiberglass (usually what mannequins of this kind are made out of says wikipedia).

Trying to make a Jersey Dress Form

DIY Answer Guy

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Brittany,

Thanks for getting back to me. Here’s an idea for you.

First, using 1/2″-3/4″ thick plywood, cut a piece to the width and depth of the the base of the torso.

Next, to make a post, cut a piece of 4×4 (or use 2, 2×4’s screwed together) to the height you want to raise the torso off the floor.

Now, for the base, cut another piece of plywood to a 18″ square.

Assemble the above pieces in this order;

Screw the first piece of plywood (the one as wide as the base of the torso) to one end of the 4×4.

Screw the 18″ square piece of plywood to the other end of the 4×4.

Apply a generous amount of construction adhesive to the first piece of plywood, set the torso on the adhesive. Then use 3″ drywall screws to screw up through the plywood into the torso. That should provide you with a stable base to work with the torso. If needed, you can weight the base with whatever you have around, or fill a couple of bags or socks with sand for weights.

If this is going to be on display, you can just velcro a skirt, pants or other nice piece of material to the bottom of the torso.

Let me know if you have another idea or questions, and let me know how your project turns out.

Thanks for the fun.

The post How to make a clothes mannequin stand appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Everyone has been asking

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Everyone, DIY Essential Guides is a great great resource I put together for beginners and advanced DIY’ers. And if you’re seeking more specific information on Plumbing, Electrical and general building guides try these three great Black and Decker books. They make the perfect DIY library

The post Where can I find a list of basic tools and DIY guides appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Clem asked

Is this popcorn ceiling dangerous? Should I be concerned? Is it airborne?

I have a disabled daughter who can’t breathe any hazardous materials. She has noticed she’s been getting hives on her legs and a stuff nose. But this could coincidental.

PS- the building isn’t that old. So I don’t think there is asbestos.

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Clem, The popcorn ceiling is mostly just an aggravation. It’s fairly easy to remove with a 4″ drywall or putty knife.

Make sure to wear a mask as it will get a bit dusty and have your shop-vac ready to do the final cleanup.

Next, use a Pole Sander, the kind the drywallers use, to lightly sand. Now prime the surface with Zinsser 123
Choose your finish color (easier said than done) and paint.

My best to your daughter. I have one in a similar situation.

Enjoy yourself and let me know how you get on. Cheers

The post How to remove and refinish a popcorn ceiling appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Shannon asked

I’m assuming I need latex paint to paint on a wall with latex (slightly glossy) cinderblock walls. I would rather use Acrylic but am unsure it if would stay.

Thanks so much for your help!

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Shannon, Thanks for writing, and thanks for caring for the children. You are the best. You’re project sound like great fun.

Latex will work just fine. As for mixing paint yourself, that’s a bit tough, as it requires several base colors and a lots of trial and error. But this idea might be an easy and free solution.

Ask all your kiddos to see if Mom, Dad, OR the neighbors would like to donate/recycle any of their unwanted paints!  Treat it as a recycling plan and a painting lesson (stipulate what types of paint you can accept).

Have the paint dropped off at the school at a specific time and place (ask your maintenance man to help out with safe storage and transport). Now you can experiment with mixing colors with what’s on hand. 

When your project is completed you can take the left over paint to your local recycler.  Your project is a success simply by people helping others just a bit. No pain, lots of gain.

Best of luck to you and the kiddos.

The post How to create custom paint colors inexpensively appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Cheri asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Cheri, The best solution, with good taste of course, is to buy a swivel towel bar.

Swivel towel bar

They come in single, double or triple configurations, and in various finishes. 

Be sure to use heave duty anchors if you don’t have a stud to fasten to. Fixture Universe is a great site to shop from. Good luck and let me know how things go.

Oh, and here’s another site that might help Accents of Salado.

The post What type of towel bar to use with restricted space appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Karen asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Karen and Hector, I get a lot of questions regarding basement floors and here is the solution. 

First off the floor will need to be cleaned thoroughly. Then you can apply and underlayment.

Ditra or Dural Durabase CI. Both of these products are perfect for your basement conditions. They are a little spendy, but will protect your tile and investment for years to come.

Be sure to watch the video on how to apply the product and follow directions and you will achieve a great result.

Let me know how thing go.

Karen

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Thanks Larry for sending us option to protect our investment. They look great but are very expensive for our budget. So now we think about and see what we can do.

Sincerely
Hector and Karen

DIY Answer Guy

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You’re welcome. Here’s a great product to use on your basement walls. Drylok masonry waterproofer. Many DIY’ers have used this with good success.

The post How to seal basement floors for tiling appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Robert asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Robert, Thanks for the story. I agree about the latches, but that really was the only down side. I’ve had so many professionals and DIY’ers write me about the Stanley box, it’s quite amazing. 

The good news is that there is a place called JEGS selling a very similar box. It’s just like the Stanley but it doesn’t stack quite as well. 

Here are some specs: 26 Compartments, Portable Plastic Case, 17-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ x 3″

And here’s the link to the JEGS Performance Organizer. The part number, in case the link doesn’t work, W54037.

Oh did I mention that they’re only $10 bucks. I bought eight.

Stanley really blew it by dropping that product.

Well, enjoy and keep those aircraft flying. Thanks again for writing.

Cheers

The post The perfect replacement for the Stanley Workforce Toolbox appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.

Bill asked

DIY Answer Guy

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Hi Bill, great question about installing a sub-floor radiant barrier. That’s quite a project you’re working on. It’s true you would lose a bit of heat having the radiant barrier farther away from the heat source, but not an appreciable amount. And you’re right, a leaking radiant barrier isn’t effective.

So install the radiant barrier on the bottom of the trusses and be sure to use foil tape to seal the seams.

If you haven’t bought the radiant barrier yet I’d suggest using the one with the closed cell foam in the middle, as it is the best for the money.

Here’s a link to the supplier I use and recommend. Prodex If you have any other questions let me know, and best of luck with your project. For sure you’ll be warm this winter.

The post How to install radiant barrier for under floor heating appeared first on DIY Answer Guy.