DIY Home Repairs

DIY Drywall Repair

2010-08-23T13:40:00.000-04:00

All to often, I've seen lumpy spots on walls, usually behind doors, where Spackle was used to fill a hole larger than it was intended. Drywall, also called plasterboard or gypsum board, is easy to repair, but different methods depending on the size of the repair.

To Fill Dents

Clean off loose edges. Sand the depression to roughen its surface. Dip a joint knife into the compound sideways and load about half the blade width. Pull the knife across the dented area with a slow smooth stroke. Position the knife at a 90-degree angle and pull across again to remove excess compound. If the patch shrinks as it dries, apply a second coat.
To blend in the repair with its surroundings, sand it very lightly - or smooth it out by wiping with a dampened sponge.
Joint compounds, being relatively porous, must be primed before you paint them. Some paints also serve as primers.

Mending Drywall Tape

Begin by carefully pulling away the loose tape. Use a sharp knife at edges or you may pull off material from either side as well.
Apply compound to the wall, position the new tape, then smooth out any bubbles with light, vertical knife strokes.
While the compound is still wet, apply a second coat. Let it dry, then lightly coat again, feather out the edges, and sand or sponge.

Repairing Popped Nails

Press the panel against the stud, then drive new nails above and below the old one. Ring-shank types have better holding power.
Dimple each nail below the surface with your last hammer blow. Pull the popped nail and fill dimples with compound.
After the compound dries, apply a second thin coat, feathering it out at the edges. Wait a day, then sponge, prime, and paint.

Repairing 1-5 Inch Holes

Clean away loose drywall and cut off any loose paper. Leave the inner part of the gypsum rough. Cut a piece of wire screen 2" larger than the hole all around. Tie one end of a 12" string to a small stick or pencil, and thread the other end through the center of the screen.
Bend the wire screen and insert the stick and screen into the hole. Pull the string until the stick holds the screen flat against the back of the hole. Holding the string taut, fill the hole, working in from the edges. Make sure the compound adheres to the wire screen. Tape the string tightly against the wall with masking tape.
When the compound has dried completely, cut the string flush to the wall. When using joint compound, remember it will shrink; apply another layer to bring the patch even with the wall. A third layer may even be needed.
Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.
Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine-grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat these last 2 steps to achieve the desired results.

Repairing 5-8 Inch Holes

Measure the size of the hole you need to repair. Cut out (at a bevel) a rectangular piece of drywall at least an inch larger than the hole you are patching. Using the patch as a template, place it over the hole and trace. Cut out using the tracing as your guide at the same bevel as the patch.
If the patch does not fit well, trim as needed with a utility knife. Spread compound around the beveled edges and fit the patch into place using a little pressure.
Smooth compound around the edges of the patch on the wall. Smooth it out and put drywall tape over all joints with the joint knife. At the end of each joint, press the edge of the knife blade in firmly and use as a straightedge to tear off the tape. Sand when dry.
Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.
Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine-grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat these last 2 steps to achieve the desired results.

Repairing Holes Larger Than 8 Inches

Measure the size of the hole you need to repair. Cut out (at a bevel) a rectangular piece of drywall at least an inch larger than the hole you are patching. Using the patch as a template, place it over the hole and trace. Cut out using the tracing as your guide at the same bevel as the patch.
If the patch does not fit well, trim as needed with a utility knife. Spread compound around the beveled edges and fit the patch into place using a little pressure.
Smooth compound around the edges of the patch on the wall. Smooth it out and put drywall tape over all joints with the joint knife. At the end of each joint, press the edge of the knife blade in firmly and use as a straightedge to tear off the tape. Sand when dry.
Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.
Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine-grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat these last 2 steps to achieve the desired results.

Replacing Hot Water Heater Elements

2010-08-06T12:37:00.000-04:00

Have you ever started to take a shower, gotten all lathered up, then suddenly there's no more hot water. You have to rinse the suds off, so there's nothing to do but endure the icy water as you rush through the rinsing off portion of your morning routine.

Whether you have noticed there isn't as much hot water as there once was, or the water just doesn't get as hot as it once did, the problem is likely that a heating element in your hot water heater has burned out. Fortunately, these are easy to replace so you can save a lot of money by not calling the plumber and doing it yourself by following these simple steps:

1. Turn off the power to the hot water heater.
Locate your fuse box and trip the circuit breaker for the hot water heater before doing anything else.

2. Turn off water.
You're going to be draining the hot water heater, so you do not want water to be filling it up as you try to do so.

3. Drain the hot water heater.
You may have to first remove any insulation that covers the heater. At the foot of the hot water heater is a water spigot. Attach a garden hose to the spigot, with the other end of the hose as down-hill as possible. Turn the knob to open the spigot, open a tap inside, and let gravity do the rest.

4. Remove heater element panels.
Most hot water heaters have two (2) heater elements, each with their own cover panel. They are usually about 6" x 8" and held in place with a single screw at the top, and tabs in slots at the bottom. Remove the screws and set the panels aside.

5. Remove the heater elements.
Heater elements are either secured by screws, or thread in like a spark plug. If under the panels you see what wires leading to 2" x2" boxes held in place by 4 screws, you will need to detach the wires and remove the screws to extract the elements. Otherwise, you will need a heater element wrench, which looks like an over-sized spark plug tool. Detach the wires and use the wrench, turning the elements counter-clockwise to remove. The elements themselves are usually about 10" long U shaped coils, either with a single coil or a pair.

6. Get replacements.
Water heater elements come in all shapes and sizes, so take one with you to the hardware store to make sure you get the right ones. While only one element may be burned out, they are relatively inexpensive so it is a good idea to replace them both at this time.

7. Install your new elements.
Pretty much the reverse of what you did to remove them. You want there to be a good seal, so tighten until firmly secure, but not over-tighten as to strip the screws or threads. Don't forget to reattach the wiring.

8. Flush the water heater.
Sediment and scale is sure to have built up in your hot water heater since it was last serviced, so now is the perfect time to perform a little maintenance. Turn the water back on while leaving the drain open to help flush out as much sediment and scale as possible. You can turn off the inside tap at this point as the pressure release valve will allow air to escape as the water heater fills.

9. Allow to fill.
Once you're confident you've flushed out as much of the sediment and scale as possible, close the drain spigot, remove the garden hose, and allow the water heater to fill up. Inspect the elements for leaks that may indicate cross-threading or needing to be tightened.

10. Finish up.
All that's left to do now is replace the heater element panels, replace the insulation cover, and re-set the circuit breaker.

You should notice an immediate improvement not only in the water being hotter, but also lasting longer. Best of all you did it yourself and saved some money in the process!

DIY Toilet Installation

2010-08-03T14:34:00.000-04:00

If your toilet is old or needs repairs, it is often cheaper to replace it by installing a new one. This is very easy to do yourself and can be completed in a single afternoon. However, if you plan on installing a toilet in a new site, you will need to extend supply pipes and drains to the desired location, a job you may want to leave for a plumbing specialist.

Most toilets are sold with the necessary gaskets, washers and hardware for the installation of the tank to the bowl. However, you will also need to buy a new wax ring and a plumbers wrench or 8" channel lock pliers if you do not already have them.

1. Turn off water to the toilet. Use a bucket and a cloth or sponge to remove the excess water remaining in the tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.

2. Using a plumbers wrench or 8" channel lock pliers, remove the nut holding the water line to the ballcock valve on the side or bottom of the tank. Next, use a small wrench to remove the two 1/4" nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove the old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting on the floor or wall - if the water line is of the older plastic variety now would be a good time to consider replacing with the newer woven stainless steel fiber variety.

3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4" bolts into the holes of the flange side with the screw heads in the flange slots. Put some wax old in the holes to hold the screws in place. Put the new wax ring in the flange, with the flat side up if tapered.

4. Place the new bowl straight down so that it is centered on the wax ring and the bolts are centered in the holes at the foot of the bowl. Sit on the bowl facing the wall until your weight settles the bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over tighten, as you can break the porcelain bowl. Tighten again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put the 2" rubber gasket on the tank where it attaches to bowl. Put rubber washers on bolts provided and put in holes in bottom of the tank. Place toilet tank on the toilet bowl lining up bolts in the tank with the holes in the back of the bowl. Underneath, thread metal washers and nuts onto the tank/bowl bolts and tighten with fingers. Using a screwdriver on the bolt heads and a crescent wrench underneath, tighten the bolts alternately to keep the tank level. Again, be cautious not to over tighten and break the tank and/or bowl. Reattach the water supply line, snug up the floor flange nuts, turn on water and inspect for leaks.

Handy Tips:

Adding food coloring to the tank water can help identify hard to see slow leaks.
Hard rubber washer bumpers can be used to help brace the tank against the wall - however since some sweating of the tank is to be expected these should be placed above the water line to prevent water damage to the wall.
A new wax ring should be installed every time the bowl is unseated from the floor.

How To Repair A Leaking Tub and Shower Faucet In 3 Simple Steps

2010-08-01T17:21:00.000-04:00

You do not have to endure the slow drip from a leaky faucet, or with the growth of stain that often leaves the tub or shower. Fix it now and you will avoid headaches and save those in your water bill too. All work, with special tools, can set you back a bit of money, but doing it yourself is much cheaper than hiring a plumber, and usually much cheaper and easier than dragging the old tap and install a new one.

Worn rubber washers, seals or gaskets in the valve assembly cause more leaks. Here we show how to solve one type of valve, which is common in the elderly, two handle faucets (hot and cold separately). We will not cover a single handle faucets here.

1. Have New Parts Prior To Starting Repair
You can fix most problems with spare parts available at hardware stores and home centers. A distributor of plumbing parts will carry a much larger selection and may be able to special order hard to find items (see "plumbing parts and supplies" in your local Yellow Pages or online). There are thousands of different faucet replacement parts are available, so bring your old pieces to the store for a good game. If your valve is highly corroded or the finish is wearing off, replace the entire faucet.

2. Disassembly
Removing the faucet handle is the hardest part of the job. Over time, corrosion can virtually weld cable to the mast. Remove the handle. If the handle will not fall, do not force it, it can break. Instead, remove them with a special handle puller. Since the handles off, remove the shell and beam. The stem assembly controls the amount and temperature of water dispensed through the shower or tub spout. Remove it with a special key bathed, that looks like a wrench on steroids.

Leaks usually occur for two reasons. Over time, the rigidity of the seat to wash and will not seal tightly. And the water pressure gradually corrodes the metal rim of the seat.Replace bench seat with a special key.

3. Replacing the Stem Parts
Lubricate the parts with special grease plumber. If you are working on a faucet, two treaties, it is recommended to replace the washers and valve seats in both hot and cold.

First, remove the packing nut. Torso twist clockwise and back out of the hood. Pry off the washing machine packing old with a small screwdriver blade or flat pick. Grease the threads of the stem and reinstall the trunk in the hood. Grease the new washing machine packaging and slide it into place, and then grease the threads of the nut and tighten the packing nut packing. Use special grease plumber.

Second, remove the screw from old washing machine and dishwasher chair former headquarters. Grease the dish and wires new headquarters of the new screw and then reinstall them.

Thirdly, remove the cover old washing machine, a new grease and slide it into place.

Fourthly, apply pipe compound to the threads of the cover and reinstall it on the tap body.

Five grease, dealing with splines and replace the shield and handle.

Tightening or replacing balusters

2009-05-31T13:50:00.006-04:00

As a companion piece to the prior post, I thought I'd include how to tighten or replace loose or broken balusters.

Tightening Loose Balusters
Sometimes the settling of the house causes a staircase to sag or twist, which in addition to causing squeaky treads, can loosen the balusters as well. This can easily be repaired with glue and shims. It's best to schedule this project either late in the evening, or prior to leaving the house for an extended period so that the stairs won't be used and the glue has ample time to set.
You can easily buy or make your own wood shims. To make your own shims, cut a strip of wood with the grain running the length of the strip. Make it slightly thicker than the widest gap between the top of the baluster and the handrail. Cut the strip into shims and sand or plane them into wedges. Coat the shims with glue and insert it at the top upstairs side of the baluster. Lightly tap it into position using a mallet or hammer and a block of scrap wood. Once the glue is dry, trim the excess shim flush with the baluster.
Alternatively, you can drill a countersunk hole at an angle through the baluster and into the handrail, using a carpenter screw to tie the baluster and handrail together.

Replacing Damaged Balusters
If the baluster is doweled (peg in hole) start by sawing it in half. Twist sharply to break the glue bond holding the baluster in place, and remove the two halves. Cut the new baluster to the desired length and coat the tread hole with glue. Insert the top end of the new baluster into the handrail, then slide the bottom end across the tread and into the tread hole.
If the baluster is dovetailed, remove the outside tread trim, being careful not to damage it. Saw the baluster flush with the tread, and use a chisel to remove the old dovetail. Cut the new baluster to length, put top into the handrail, and bottom into the now empty dovetail socket. Drill a pilot hole through dovetail and into tread, and attach the two with a nail. Finish by replacing the outside tread trim.
If the baluster is filleted, chisel out fillet on the upstairs side of the baluster being replaced. Tap the baluster loose from nails and remove. Clean old glue from the groove. On the new baluster mark the angles using either the old baluster or a T-bevel, and cut to fit. Set the new baluster against the existing downstairs fillet, and toenail into place. Glue and nail new fillet into the handrail behind the new baluster.

How To Fix a Squeaky Stair

2009-05-20T20:35:00.004-04:00

Squeaky wood stairs are caused by friction against the nail shanks. Because stairs get a lot of traffic, it is almost inevitable that nails will start to drop from the wood.

How Not to Fix Squeaky Stairs!
If you are familiar with the process of fixing squeaky floors, this is substantially the same. Maybe you already know that hammering down loose nails is only a temporary fix as the nail will soon be lose again - or worse, back out to where someone might get hurt. Hammering in a second nail, next to the squeaky nail is a little better, but not much. If you decide to go this route, be careful that the new nail doesn't split the tread - a very real possibility, especially with older homes and stairs.

Screw 'Em!
The best solution is to pre-drill a hole next to the squeaky nail and secure the board with a screw into the underlying riser.

If you have access directly to the tread (the stair treads are not covered with carpet), you can apply some caulking into the squeaky riser-tread joints or into any cracks. Caulk isn't glue, it serves as a kind of cushion letting the objects still move some.

To really do the job right, it helps if you have access to the underside of the stairs. The fix then is similar to the fix that you would take to fix a squeaky floor board. With this method, you can investigate and see if there are blocks that were attached to the joints between the risers and treads. It is possible the blocks have fallen out or broken. In this case, you reattach or replace the wooden block of with construction grade wood glue and finishing nails. Alternatively, beneath the stairs you may find wedges at the riser-tread joint. In this case you can lightly tap in new wedges to which you applied a light layer of construction grade wood glue.

That's all there is to it!

Spring Maintenance Checklist

2009-05-05T10:27:00.003-04:00

To help protect your most valuable asset-your home, the spring is the recommended time for checking for these potential problems and applying some preventative maintenance before they result in costly repairs later.

Inspect your Deck

Look for water stains where the deck ties to the house. Water runoff may lead to rot, weakening the structure and roof of the house. If you have any doubt about the structural integrity of the deck, call a professional to investigate.

Rid your deck of moss and mold. Pressure washers are effective. Remember, if you see wood damage, like raised fibers, increase the distance between the nozzle and the surface. We recommend an electric pressure washer. They are generally quieter and easier to store and transport than the gas models.

Dirty air conditioner

Disconnect electric power to the outside of your air conditioning condenser and clear of leaves and debris with a vent brush, power blower, garden hose, or the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner. If the cooling fins are exposed, be careful not to bend them. (If your garden has lots of trees and plants, wrap around the mesh fiberglass condenser coil to capture pollen and leaves. Replace the mesh as necessary. Do not allow debris to block airflow .) Vacuum the grille and register inside the home to ensure good air circulation. Lastly, now would be a good time to change your furnace filter. We recommend 3M Filtrete Ultra Allergen Reduction furnace filters.

For a more detailed maintenance walkthrough, see How To Tune Up Your HVAC.

Inspect your Foundation

Slight cracks in foundation walls often occurs during curing, and settling of the foundation over time and is not necessarily a cause for alarm. Mark the crack and check back in a few months - or better still get good digital photos of this and other 'to do list' items. If the cracks seem to worsen, call a specialist. If they are unchanged, fill the cracks with an injection system of epoxy resins.

Inspect your Garage Door

If you're like me, your car has never seen the inside of the garage which is used instead as a workshop and storage shed, meaning the door has hardly been used all winter. To check that the door is balanced, the release in the manual mode and lift a hand. The door should lift easily and smoothly and stay open on its own about 3 feet off the ground. If not, by hiring a garage door technician to counterbalance the overload spring. Then set the investment in the opening as small as possible. Place a 2x4 board on the floor under the door, wide side down. The door will backup when it's 2x4. If not, call a garage door professional. Photoelectric eyes tested by holding the 2x4 between them. The door should reverse direction. If not, have it checked by a professional.

Clean your Gutters

Clear the channels of debris and check for signs of corrosion, joint separation, and loose fasteners. Remove the pipes and unclog downspouts leader. Leaders should extend at least 5 feet of water to run away from the foundation. We recommend a Type 1A ladder for safety. Never go beyond the label of the highest step. Never use an aluminum ladder near power lines.

Inspect your Roof

Leaks in the roof typically occur around chimneys, skylights, and other vents or openings. They are easier to detect from inside the attic, where water stains on the rafters are a good indicator. Patching leaks is best left to a professional. Examine the siding under the eaves of the roof, ceilings and rooms below for waterstains or discoloration, indications that ice dams may have created leaks along the edge of the roof. Inspect the roof for cracked, bent, or missing shingles. Asphalt shingles typically last 20 years and are often warrantied.

Inspect your Trees

If you live in an area that has experienced a heavy snowfall your trees may have experienced damage. If the damage is far up the tree, hire a licensed arborist who is experienced in removing branches far from the ground. If you can reach the damaged area, remove the branches with a sharp tree saw using the 3-cut technique, which prevents tearing the bark and creating an open wound in the trunk making it vulnerable to disease:

Make the first cut on the branch 1 to 2 feet from the trunk, sawing a quarter of the way through the bottom of the branch.
Make the second cut on the branch 3 inches beyond the first, sawing all the way through the branch.
Lastly, remove the branch at the trunk, sawing from the top down.

Check for bent branches which may have occurred during a heavy snowfall. Make a mental note, or again take digital pictures as a reminder, and check again later when new growth is emerging.

Inspect your Pavement

Cracks in pavement are an invitation for weeds which can progress the damage. Home centers sell patching and filling materials to the surfaces of asphalt and concrete. If you have a path that was laid dry, as opposed to setting in mortar, brush stone dust or sand into the joints to lock the pavers in place and prevent weeds from invading.

What Are These White Crystals Growing On My Brick?

2007-03-19T11:01:00.000-04:00

Recently, while visiting some friends, they asked my thoughts about some fine white crystals growing on the decorative tile around their fireplace. They have propane gas logs in their fireplace so the flue is supposed to be shut. This substance is called "efflorescence" and its a salt crystal that forms when water soaks through all kinds of masonry (efflorescence will also form on drywall and other surfaces penetrated by moisture) to the surface and dries. The water leeches out the salts from the masonry and when it reaches the surface the water evaporates leaving the salts behind. A little is normal, but excessive efflorescence will lead to the deterioration of the masonry and mortar if left unchecked, which is especially harmful if its taking place along your foundation, and is an indication of a moisture problem that will only get worse if left unchecked. Excessive efflorescence around a fireplace or chimney may be a sign of a compromised flue liner, so have a chimney inspector check your chimney for cracks or deterioration in the flue liner.

If you use your fireplace heavily, its recommended to have it serviced professionally every year. Every other year is adequate for a less frequently used fireplace.

My friends problem was two-fold. Their chimney is open, so rainwater falls unchecked into the chimney, and their damper is old so doesn't seal as it should in addition to a hole that has rusted through where the damper handle used to be. The damper, therefore, is letting warm moist are escape into the flue, where it condenses on the walls. To fix both of these contributors to an efflorescence problem, I suggest using a top-down chimney cap. This is a cap easily mounted to the top of a chimney. I recommend the screened variety: the screen helps keep animals and leaves from getting into your chimney, but it also has a spring loader damper to seal your chimney at the top. The damper is actuated by a cable that hangs down the chimney which you latch onto a bracket unobtrusively mounted inside the fireplace. To close the damper you pull the cable snug and slip into the bracket, to open, simply release the cable from the bracket.

Should you need to repair foundation supports due to deterioration associated with moisture, I recommend inserting a plastic membrane to serve as a moisture barrier. This is typically a moisture proof sheet of plastic that sits atop the lowermost foundation support and prevents the ground moisture from soaking into the higher adjoining masonry. For more on foundation moisture control check out the post on moisture proofing your crawlspace.

How To Tune Up Your HVAC

2007-02-28T12:07:00.000-05:00

Without annual maintenance, your air conditioning doesn't operate at its peak efficiency and is more likely to lead to expensive repairs down the line. Some maintenance checks require a professional, so have one come out every 2 to 3 years to check the coolant level and electrical parts.

Outside

1. Turn off power to the condenser unit. There should be an electrical box attached to the side of the house in the immediate vicinity of the condenser. When you open this box you will find either a block shutoff that can be removed or a switch to turn off the power.

2. Vacuum the exterior of the unit to remove grass clippings, leaves and other debris using a soft bristled attachment. It's a good idea to bed the area with mulch or paving stones to prevent grass and weeds from growing up around the unit. Any bushes should be pruned back to allow for better air flow.

3. Crushed fins (the metal ridges similar to those on a car radiator or a fish's gills, which act much the same way) can be straightened with a dinner knife. Be gentle, you only want to straighten the bent fins and not puncture anything.

4. Unscrew the retaining screws for the grille/fan assembly on the top of the unit. Remove the grille and fan and remove any debris thats accumulated inside the unit. Wipe away any accumulated grime with a damp cloth.

5. From the inside of the unit, use a garden hose to spray the fins using moderate pressure from a nozzle attachment. You want to flush out accumulated grime and whatever the vacuuming missed.

6. Check the fan motor for lubrication ports or refer to your owner's manual. If availabe (newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated) add 3-6 drops of electric motor oil (not all purpose oil or penetrating oil which can damage the bearings). Older models may have a belt driven compressor which may have lubrication ports as well.

7. Reattach the fan motor / grille assembly.

8. Set your inside thermostat to the off position. Restore power to the condenser unit. Wait 24 hours before resetting the inside thermostat.

Inside

1. Turn the power off to the furnace. There should be a nearby power switch.

2. Check the filter and change if necessary.

3. If you can get to the evaporator, vaccum the fins as you did for the condenser unit.

4. Open the blower compartment and vacuum up the accumulated dust and debris. Check the unit for lubrication ports or refer to the owners manual. If it has them apply electric motor oil to each found.

5. Check the plastic condensation drain tube for algae growth. Either clean the tube with a bleach/warm water solution or replace it with a new one. While you have the tube off, clean any debris from the drain port with a pipe cleaner or test tube brush.

6. Reattach the drain tube, and turn the power back on.

How To Fix a Damp Crawlspace and Prevent Mold

2007-02-28T10:19:00.000-05:00

The purpose of foundation vents is to allow passing air to carry moisture out of crawlspaces. Except in especially dry climates, this often isn't enough. Even in warm hot summer months the humid moisture laden air will condense on the cooler foundation walls, pipes, ductwork, and even the underside of the flooring. Moisture, still air, and relative darkness is the perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew.

One mold inspector/technician I know recommends leaving the vent's open year long (trim hedges or other obstructions back to allow better air flow) and also wiring the crawlspace with low wattage lighting to run 24/7.

These tips will help keep your crawlspace dry and mold free:

1. Create Better Drainage around your home to prevent rainwater from seeping under the foundation. Grade soil to about .5 inch per foot. Import the soil if necessary, if you'll pardon the pun, it's dirt cheap. This step is highly recommended even if you have gutters to direct the rain water coming off your roof. If you do have gutters, make sure the water is directed away from the downspouts and not pooling back to the foundation.

2. Insulate the Exposed Foundation walls with 1.5 inch rigid, moisture-proof insulation such as Thermax, taping the seams. It would also be a good idea to use this same insulation to insulate the rim joists (the joists that sit atop the foundation walls) and caulk to prevent air flow.

3. Cover the Dirt Floor of the crawlspace with a heavy plastic (10-20 mil) moisture barrier. You want the barrier to be mostly continuous (a few accidental holes wont undo the protection and may even help puddles from heavy rains or a busted pipe drain off) so overlap and tape the seams. Attach the plastic at least 6 inches up on the foundation walls.

4. Cap the Interior of the Foundation Wall with a strip of the plastic sheeting and galvanized flashing to complete the moisture barrier. The flashing will also serve as an obstacle to termites (not a complete defense, just a part of your control program.

Better moisture control not only helps prevent mold and mildew growth, but also will help to extend the life of your ductwork, plumbing, pressure tanks, and hot water heaters located in the crawlspace.

Habitat for Humanity - Give to the Community and Learn

2007-02-10T15:03:00.000-05:00

A couple of disjointed thoughts that leads me to this post:

1. I just finished reading an article about homeless dumping and it got me thinking about a couple of things. Chiefly, giving here at home.

2. My mom, who gives much to her church sponsored charities, was asked to give to a specific charity at work. She told them that she had already given to that same charity at her church. She was told that her contribution was mandatory because her employer wants to be recognized as a charitable organization in the community!

Giving back to the community isn't about recognition, but that doesn't mean that we can't benefit from it. For the DIY'er I recommend giving to your local Habitat for Humanity for several reasons and in several ways:

Donate Supplies

When you replace a light fixture, cabinets, windows or what-have-you, if the ones being replaced are still usable and in good condition consider donating them to the local habitat projects. Usually, it only requires a phone call and they'll come pick it up. It's win-win. You don't have to cart it to the dump, it's not occupying space in a land-fill, and it's going to continue to serve its purpose for someone who will be grateful to have it.

Donate a Weekend

This is where you get something back other than the good feeling from knowing you've done something worthwhile. When you give your time you'll probably meet some very knowledgeable people that you can learn from. You also might find yourself using tools you previously never used because you didn't know how. You can apply what you learn to your own sweat-equity projects around the house, and you might even make some friends that you can call on in a pinch.

It's also important to note that anyone can give their time. If you want to give but are afraid of heights, they're not going to have you laying shingles. If you don't know the difference between a screwdriver and a socketdriver, they'll either show you how to do it or put you to work doing something you're comfortable with.

The Habitat link above is for the habitat.org website. Many community chapters have their own websites as well.

How to Install a Programmable Thermostat

2007-01-30T16:18:00.000-05:00

A programmable thermostat can be set to not heat or cool as much when you're not home to enjoy it, thus saving you hundreds of dollars a year. Not too shabby for a $30 investment! This may seem like a daunting task at first, but its really very simple:

1. Turn off power at HVAC unit and trip the breaker.

2. Remove cover from old thermostat and unscrew assembly from the wall. Disconnect the wires and label with terminal designations.

3. Bundle wires together and tie in a slipknot around a pencil or scrap piece of wood, to prevent losing down the gap between the walls.

4. Remove any old corrosion from bare ends of wire with sandpaper. Re-strip about 3/8 inches from end of wires where necessary.

5. Slip wires through new wall plate, and position with level. Using a pencil, mark the holes for the mounting screws. Remove the wall plate, drill the holes, and secure wall plate into position.

6. Connect the wires using terminal designations and/or manufacturers directions. Push the excess wire back through wall plate into gap between walls.

7. Attach front of assembly and cover. Turn power back on, and program your new thermostat.

That's all there is to it!

How To Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

2007-01-30T14:39:00.000-05:00

I recently read an article about a science teacher who wanted to see how low he could cut his power bill. His success was so remarkable, that the power company took notice and suspected him of tampering with his meter. Many of the things he did were simple things that any of us could do easily.

1. Insulation. This is a broad topic and I'll be exploring more of this in a later post but for now I'll keep it simple. It's also #1 for a reason, though, as lost conditioned air makes us run our HVAC more than we should.

a. Outlet Pads - These are foam insulation pads that you can buy at most hardware stores. Simply install under your outlet or light switch covers to prevent air moving into or out from between the walls, especially on exterior walls.

b. Fill in the Gaps - Check under the sinks for gaps around plumbing. You'd be surprised how large some of these can be and still go unnoticed. Not only do these gaps allow cool damp air from your crawlspace to flow into your home, but may also be a little thoroughfare for unwanted critters. For larger gaps stuff with steel wool (to help prevent critters from chewing through) and cover with aluminum sided insulating tape. Smaller gaps can be filled with insulating foam.

c. Cover your insulation - Flooring your attic will increase its "R" value, but if you don't have the resources for that at the moment you can buy rolls of heavy plastic to roll out and staple to the joists with a heavy duty staple gun. This can be done in the attic and the crawl-space to help keep the conditioned air in the living space. You don't want the plastic to be airtight as some air should flow from crawlspace to attic (you also don't want to trap moisture in), just to slow it down.

d. Check Your Attic Access - Whether you have pull down stairs or a hatch, check for drafts. Weather-stripping is your quickest, most economical, choice. However, some people's access just won't seal due to warps or what have you, in this case I recommend insulated covers which are pretty cheap (about $30) and easy to install.

e. Check Your Chimney Flue - If you notice a draft coming from the fireplace, I recommend installing a top sealing chimney damper. These actually close off your chimney at the top (no more dead birds to dispose of every winter) and are spring loaded so exceptionally easy to open and close. Very easy to install (if you don't mind going up on the roof, otherwise call a professional) and cost as low as $125.

f. Check the Doors and Windows - Apply weather stripping where needed and fill gaps in the casings if you find any. For older doors and windows consider replacing with their more modern, energy efficient alternatives.

g. Check the Outside - Walk around the exterior of your home. Look for any gaps around exterior faucets, outlets, etc. Fill with a silicon sealant to keep the water out too.

2. Switch out your bulbs - Though slightly more expensive at purchase, fluorescent light bulbs are extremely long lived and energy efficient, you'll more than make up the cost in savings on your power bill.

3. Install a Programmable Thermostat - A programmable thermostat can be set to not heat or cool as much when you're not home to enjoy it, saving you hundreds of dollars a year. Not too shabby for a $30 investment!

4. Fill empty space in refrigerator and freezer with jugs of water. The mass will conserve the temperature in addition to taking up air space that warm air can occupy when you open the door. A full refrigerator and freezer are much more energy efficient that empty ones.

5. Unplug electrical appliances that are seldom used, say in a guest bed-room. Even when they aren't running, appliances will slowly "leak" electrical current.

6. Wait to do full loads of dishes and laundry. Additionally, when doing laundry, use the correct setting for the amount of laundry you're doing.

7. When you have to buy new appliances, always shop around for the ones that are the most energy efficient. After all, you'll probably have them for many years, and the savings will add up.

How To Install Laminate Flooring

2007-01-30T11:42:00.000-05:00

Laminate wood flooring is an excellent alternative to natural wood flooring with a few key benefits:

1. Price - As more manufacturers get into the market, the quality of the products available goes up and the prices come down.

2. Ease of Installation - Installing laminate flooring is incredibly easy. In fact, some friends of mine who were expecting a baby installed the flooring themselves throughout their house with relative ease. This is saying something considering my friend usually calls upon me for any task that calls upon using power tools! Truthfully, I helped him out at the very beginning, but once he had a little faith in himself, he had no problems.

3. Nearly Maintenance-Free - Laminate flooring resists staining, wear, and fading much better than wood and natural stone. It's very durable (about 10 times stronger than a kitchen countertop) and is water-resistant (since it is made of wood, however, it will still swell and buckle in areas of excessive moisture, so care should be used to adhere to spacing, and the use of glue is recommended). Unlike most hardwoods, laminates are virtually dent resistant, but matching fillers are made in case of gouges or dents. Laminate flooring requires little maintenance. You won't have to wax or oil your floors, have them sanded and restained, or screened and recoated.

How to Install

For my descriptions, I'll assume you are working from left to right, and that you are working with a glueless laminate flooring in an area not prone to excessive moisture. In areas prone to moisture (entry ways, halls outside of bathrooms, and utility closets) I advise gluing all panels. This will help prevent water penetrating to the core of the panels.

1. Prep the floor. If you can't remove the furniture from the room, move it to one side, try to give yourself a good 6-10 feet of room to work . You should plan to run the flooring along the wall offering the most light. Laminate flooring can be laid on top of most existing flooring provided it is sound, and level.

2. Install a vapor barrier. This is a thin foam mat coupled with a sheet of plastic that you can buy at any flooring provider. It will help prevent moisture from the sub-floor surface penetrating the laminate as well as provide a cushion and sound baffle so the laminate doesn't "bounce" or "pop" off the sub-floor. Most will come with a self-adhering tape to join the strips together.

3. For the first row you lay down, lay two panels close together end to end with the long tongue facing you. Cut a panel in half, using either a table saw or a circular saw at an appropriate work table, and lock in the right-hand half below the first panel in the top row. Always use caution, and wear safety goggles and respirator masks when cutting.

4. Lock in a full panel in the row you started with the half to bridge the two initial panels above. Now, using your tapping block (Hard plastic block shaped to not damage laminate) and hammer, tap the right-most panel in the top layer to lock into the panel to its left, and then repeat for the row below. Continue to use this bridging technique for the first row.

5. When you get to the end of the first row, where a full panel will not fit you will need to measure and cut a piece to fit: a. using a full panel, rotate the panel by 180 so that the long tongue is facing away from you, b. line the panel up where you would like the panel to end, giving yourself enough clearance to lock in place, c. using the end of the last board, mark on the panel you're going to cut using a straight edge (hint: I usually end up using that second half of the first board we cut as my straight edge, and thickness guide for cutting the door frames, etc). Cut the piece, position, and tap into place using a hammer and drawbar (metal bar shaped something like a "Z" to allow you to pull in end pieces).

6. Using the other portion of the panel you just cut, begin your next row. Some instructions say you should never use a piece shorter that 16 inches.

7. Continue in this fashion until you complete the room. Unless you're really lucky you'll probably need to "rip" all of your last row to fit. Here's where those with table saws have an advantage, but you can still do it with any other saw. Simply flip the panel over and like measuring for the end pieces, you'll measure for the remaining strip for the length of the panel.

8. There you've laid the flooring, now all you need to do is install toe molding (quarter round) to cover the clearances you left for expansion. Use care to attach molding to shoe molding, wall studs, or even the subfloor: NOT the laminate.

Addition note: For larger rooms (larger than 40 feet x 25 feet) you may need to install expansion joints, so that the entire floor will not be continuous but separate floating floors bridged by a strip that covers the gap, like you'll be using at the thresholds. For most homes, however, this won't be necessary if you do each room and hallway separately using the threshold strips to bridge the gaps.

How to Fix Popped Nails in Drywall

2007-01-26T17:39:00.000-05:00

Often we'll see popped nails in our homes. These usually look like nickel sized bubbles in the drywall, or sometimes the nail head will pop through the drywall altogether. Fortunately, these are really easy to fix with common household tools. Here's what you do:

1. First, make sure theres a stud where the nailhead is. About two inches above or below the popped nail drive a wallboard screw through the wallboard into the stud. You'll want to slightly countersink the screwhead just below the surface of the wallboard.

2. With a hammer, gently drive the popped nail just below the drivewall surface. Lightly sand the spots with fine 150 grit sandpaper.

3. Using a wallboard knife (a putty knife will do if you have one) fill the sanded dents with joint compound or spackling. Let these dry thoroughly, generally 24 hours.

4. Since joint compound shrinks as it dries, give them a second application, then wipe with a damp sponge to level with the surrounding drywall. Again, let them dry thoroughly.

5. After the joint compound has dried, you can still level with either a wet but well wrung out kitchen sponge (polyurethane) or fine 150 grit sandpaper.

6. Now you're ready to paint!

How to Fix Common Toilet Problems

2007-01-26T16:23:00.000-05:00

Problem: Water runs constantly
1. Adjust lift chain (or lift wire) so that flapper (or tank ball) seats securely in valve seat.
2. Clean valve seat and flapper or tank ball.
3. Check overflow pipe: if corroded, remove (unscrew) and replace.

Problem: Water overflows into overflow tube
1. Bend float arm down slightly.

Problem: Water continues to run after flushing
1. Bend float arm up slightly
2. Shake float to check if water has gotten inside, if so, replace
3. Clean valve seat and flapper or tank ball.

Problem: Whistling sounds coming from tank
1. Replace washers in ballcock valve plunger (located at top of water inlet pipe in the tank) or
2. Replace whole assembly with newer and more trouble-free floating cup-ballcock assembly.

Problem: Splashing sounds coming from tank
1. Reposition refill tube to flow directly into overflow tube
2. Replace washers in ballcock valve plunger (located at top of water inlet pipe in the tank) or
3. Replace whole assembly with newer and more trouble-free floating cup-ballcock assembly.

Problem: Tank doesn't flush completely / Usually have to flush more than once
1. Shorten lift wires or chains to make tank ball or flapper lift higher
2. Bend float arm up slightly
3. Shake float to check if water has gotten inside, if so, replace.

Problem: Tank sweats
1. Insulate tank by lining with fitted sheets of polystyrene or foam rubber, usually sold as kits at your local hardware store
2. Contact a plumber to install a tempering valve to heat the water in the tank.

Problem: Tank leaks
1. First, check to make sure all connections to tank are tight (be careful to not overtighten and crack porcelain), if so try to isolate where the leak is coming from. Your local hardware store will have dye tablets to help you spot the source of the leak
2. If you can't isolate where the leak is coming from, remove all fittings from the tank, remove the tank, clean, dry, and look for any possible hair-line cracks. If there is a crack, no matter how small, you'll need to replace the tank. However, if no cracks are apparent, now would be a good time to replace all the fittings. Mineral deposits accumulate in a tank over time and accelerate corrosion. I recommend replacing all fittings so you won't have to repeat this process 6 months from now for a different fitting.

Problem: Toilet leaks at base / Smell sewage in bathroom
1. Tighten nuts on base of bowl. Use care to not overtighten and crack porcelain.
2. Turn off water, drain tank, remove nuts and bolts securing bowl to floor. Remove wax seal completely from base of bowl / drain pipe. Replace wax seal following instructions on container. Secure bowl to floor using new nuts and bolts that should come with the wax seal, again, use caution to not overtighten and damage the porcelain.

Losing Water Pressure? Getting Blasts of Air From Your Faucets? Check Your Pressure Tank!

2007-01-26T15:16:00.000-05:00

Your pressure tank lies between your well pump and the rest of your homes plumbing. Its generally less than half the size of your hot water heater. It's purpose is to act as a pressure switch to your well pump. The tank fills with water pushing the trapped air to the top of the tank. When the air pressure drops below a pre-set amount, usually 30-40 psi, it turns on the pump. When the pressure gets within the target range, usually 50-60 psi, the pump is turned off.

When the tank loses too much air it becomes "water-logged", and this causes the well pump to turn on and off again fairly frequently, and you'll notice a marked loss in water pressure.

How to fix a waterlogged pressure tank:
1. Turn off power to the pump
2. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve located on the bottom of the tank, open the valve and drain the tank of all pressure
3. Now turn on a faucet to allow all the water to drain from the tank
4. Turn off the faucet, close the drain valve, remove the hose, and turn the pump back on.

Usually a tank becomes waterlogged due to a leak. Inspect your tank for any spots of corrosion. Tank plugs are available, but its a temporary solution and should only be used as a stop-gap until you can replace the tank.

If, when you turn on your faucets, you get a blast of air, your pressure tank may be "air-bound."

How to fix an air-bound pressure tank:
1. Turn off power to the pump
2. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve located on the bottom of the tank, open the valve and drain the tank of all pressure
3. Replace the air volume control if your tank has one
4. Close the drain valve, remove the hose, and turn the pump back on.

If the problem persists, you probably have a leak in the piping between the well pump and the house, and should call a licensed well contractor.

Do It Yourself Home Repairs content coming!

2006-12-06T11:30:00.000-05:00

Just registered this blog but I'm away from my home computer and pics for illustrations. Check back for detailed illustrated tutorials. I'll begin making entries when I get home this weekend.