When to Paint Over Wallpaper

Before deciding to paint over wallpaper, there are a few things you need to check. The first is that the paper is in good condition and free from any rips or tears. If it is in bad condition, it is usually better to strip it and paint the bare wall instead.

Painting over wallpaper that is peeling in several places, even if not ripped, is not advisable. If wallpaper is peeling in several places, it suggests that the adhesiveness of the paste is starting to fail. This could be due to poor quality paste or that the paste has been compromised by dampness in the room.

If peeling is localised to one area, it might be possible to re-stick it with paste before painting. Do this carefully to avoid air bubbles, and wait for it to dry fully before painting over it.

Plain, flat wallpaper is most suitable for painting over, but you can paint over textured and patterned paper if you don’t mind the texture being visible afterward.

Preparing Wallpaper for Painting

Assuming that you have checked that the wallpaper is in good condition, there shouldn’t be too much preparation needed before you paint over it.

1. Move any furniture away from the walls and cover it with dust sheets to protect it from paint spots. Protect the carpet or wood floor in the same way.
2. Use a clean, dry cloth to wipe away any dust and loose dirt from the surface of the wallpaper. Ensure you get into the corners where dust can accumulate.
3. Dampen another clean cloth in a mixture of water and a small amount of washing-up liquid. Wring out the cloth well and use it gently to clean the surface of the wallpaper.
4. Allow the wallpaper to dry completely, and then use masking tape to protect the skirting boards, door and window frames, and any other features.

With the room prepared, you can move on to painting over the wallpaper.

Priming Wallpaper for Painting

Even if your wallpaper is light-coloured or unpatterned, applying at least one coat of primer is recommended. The primer will help you achieve a clean finish when the topcoat is applied, and make the paper easier to cover.

Water-based primer could soak into the wallpaper too much and affect the adhesion of the paste. For this reason, we recommend using an oil-based primer whenever you paint over wallpaper. This Zinsser all-in-one primer and sealer is a great choice for preparing wallpaper for painting.

Apply at least one, but ideally two, coats of primer and allow it to dry completely before continuing with the job.

How to Paint Over Wallpaper

You can now select your topcoat paint colour and begin painting over your wallpapered walls.

1. Use a 2-inch (or larger) paintbrush to apply a painted border at the ceiling, skirting, and edge of each wall. Doing this will provide a better finish when you come to using the roller.
2. Switch to your roller and paint the remainder of the wall surfaces. Using long, even strokes will provide the best finish.
3. Wait for the first coat to dry completely and check the wall in a variety of light conditions to assess the coverage.
4. If the walls need a second coat, repeat the steps above to apply it.
5. Peel off the masking tape while the final coat of paint is still slightly wet, as this helps avoid pulling paint off the surface.

Problems With painting on Top of Wallpaper

If you plan and prepare correctly, painting over wallpaper should be possible without any problems. However, there are a few issues that can occur. Thankfully, most can be avoided or fixed with a little extra work.

Gaps Between Wallpaper Strips

If the wallpaper was applied correctly, gaps between strips shouldn’t be a problem. However, as wallpaper dries after being pasted, it can sometimes shrink slightly and leave a thin gap. This isn’t a disaster for your plan to paint over the wallpaper, but it does need to be dealt with.

Assuming the wallpaper is otherwise sound and firmly affixed, you can use filler to hide the gap between sheets. It is best to do this after applying the coats of primer. Let the primer set and carefully sand it back to the level of the surrounding paper. Any raised filler will show up badly when painted over, so take the time to sand it down well.

The post Can You Paint Over Wallpaper? Everything You Need to Know appeared first on DIY Extra.

In this guide, we’ll share our top tips and tricks for tiling your kitchen wall like a pro. From choosing the right materials to preparing the surface and mastering the art of grouting, we’ll cover everything you need to know to bring your design vision to life. So grab your trowel and let’s get started!

Types of Tiles for Kitchen Walls

The first step in tiling your kitchen wall is selecting the right type of tile. There are a variety of options to choose from, each with its own unique style and maintenance requirements.

Ceramic Tiles: These are the most popular type of tiles for kitchen walls. They are made from clay that is heated at high temperatures, resulting in a durable and long-lasting tile. Ceramic tiles come in a wide range of colors, patterns, and sizes, making them a versatile choice for any kitchen.

Porcelain Tiles: Similar to ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles are also made from clay, but they are fired at higher temperatures, making them more durable and less porous than ceramic tiles. They are available in a variety of finishes, from high gloss to matte, and are an excellent choice for high-traffic areas of the kitchen.

Glass Tiles: If you’re looking for a sleek and modern look, glass tiles are a great option. They are easy to clean and maintain, and their reflective qualities can make a small kitchen feel more spacious.

Stone Tiles: Stone tiles, such as marble, granite, and slate, offer a natural and rustic look to your kitchen. They require more maintenance than other types of tiles, but their unique patterns and textures can add a lot of character to your space.

Tools and Materials for Tiling Your Kitchen Wall

Before you start tiling your kitchen wall, it’s important to gather all of the necessary tools and materials. Here’s a list of what you’ll need:

Tools:

• Measuring tape
• Chalk line
• Level
• Trowel
• Tile cutter or wet saw
• Tile spacers
• Grout float
• Rubber grout float
• Tile nippers
• Sponge
• Caulk gun

Materials:

• Tiles
• Tile adhesive
• Grout
• Caulk
• Sealer (if using natural stone tiles)

It’s important to invest in high-quality tools and materials to ensure a professional-looking finish. Don’t skimp on these items, as they will make the job much easier and more efficient.

Preparation Before Tiling – Cleaning, Measuring, and Marking

Once you have all of your tools and materials, it’s time to prepare the surface for tiling. This involves cleaning the walls, measuring and marking the area, and applying a primer if necessary.

Cleaning: Before you begin tiling, it’s essential to clean the wall surface thoroughly. Remove any dust, dirt, or grease by wiping the walls down with a damp cloth and allowing them to dry completely.

Measuring and marking: Use a measuring tape, level, and chalk line to mark the area where you will be tiling. Start at the center of the wall and work your way outwards, using spacers to ensure even spacing between the tiles.

Primer: If you are tiling over a painted or wallpapered surface, it’s a good idea to apply a primer to help the adhesive adhere better to the wall. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific primer you are using.

Tiling Tips for a Flawless Finish

Now that the surface is prepared, it’s time to start tiling! Here are some tips for achieving a flawless finish:

1. Spread the adhesive evenly

Use a trowel to spread the adhesive onto the wall, making sure to cover the entire area where you will be placing tiles. Use the notched side of the trowel to create ridges in the adhesive, which will help the tiles adhere better.

2. Place the tiles

Start at the center of the wall and work your way outwards, using spacers to ensure even spacing between the tiles. Press each tile firmly into the adhesive, making sure it is level and flush with the adjacent tiles.

3. Cut tiles to fit around obstacles

Use a tile cutter or wet saw to cut tiles to fit around obstacles such as electrical outlets, cabinets, and windows. Measure carefully and make small cuts to ensure a precise fit.

4. Allow the adhesive to dry

Once all of the tiles are in place, allow the adhesive to dry completely before moving on to grouting. This can take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the type of adhesive you are using.

For a more detailed explanation, check out our complete guide to tiling walls like a pro.

Grouting and Sealing Your Tiled Kitchen Wall

Once the adhesive is dry, it’s time to grout the tiles. Grout is a cement-based material that fills in the gaps between the tiles, providing a finished look and protecting the edges from chipping.

1. Mix the grout

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the grout. Use a rubber grout float to apply the grout to the tiles, working in small sections at a time.

2. Clean off excess grout

Use a sponge and clean water to wipe away any excess grout from the tiles. Make sure to rinse the sponge frequently to avoid spreading grout around.

3. Seal the grout (if necessary)

If you are using natural stone tiles, it’s important to seal the grout to protect it from staining and moisture damage. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific sealer you are using.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Tiling Your Kitchen Wall

Tiling your kitchen wall can be a fun and rewarding project, but it’s important to avoid some common mistakes that can lead to a less-than-perfect finish. Here are a few to watch out for:

1. Inconsistent spacing

Make sure to use tile spacers to ensure even spacing between the tiles. Inconsistent spacing can make the finished product look unprofessional.

2. Incorrect adhesive application

Make sure to apply the adhesive evenly and use the notched side of the trowel to create ridges in the adhesive. This will help the tiles adhere better.

3. Uneven tiles

Use a level to ensure that each tile is level and flush with the adjacent tiles. Uneven tiles can cause problems with grouting and make the finished product look unprofessional.

Conclusion and final tips for a successful tiling project

Tiling your kitchen wall can be a fun and rewarding project, and with the right tools and guidance, you can achieve a flawless finish that will transform your entire home. Remember to choose the right type of tile for your space, gather all of the necessary tools and materials, and prepare the surface properly before tiling. Use our tips for tiling techniques, grouting, and maintenance to ensure a professional-looking finish. And finally, avoid common mistakes by using tile spacers, applying the adhesive evenly, and ensuring that each tile is level and flush with the adjacent tiles. Happy tiling!

The post Guide to Tiling Your Kitchen Wall: Tips and Tricks for a Flawless Finish appeared first on DIY Extra.

Unlike traditional insulation methods, cavity wall insulation involves filling the gap between your home’s interior and exterior walls, creating a barrier that prevents heat from escaping. Not only does this help keep your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, but it can also significantly reduce your energy consumption and lower your carbon footprint.

In fact, according to recent studies, cavity wall insulation can save homeowners up to 25% on their heating bills, making it a smart financial investment in the long run. So, whether you’re looking to improve the energy efficiency of your home or simply want to make it more comfortable, cavity wall insulation is an option you won’t want to overlook.

What is Cavity Wall Insulation?

Cavity wall insulation is a type of insulation that is installed in the gap between the interior and exterior walls of a building. This gap is known as the cavity, and it is typically around 50mm-100mm wide. Cavity wall insulation involves filling this gap with an insulating material, which creates a barrier that prevents heat from escaping through the walls.

There are two types of insulation for cavity walls: blown and injected. Blown insulation involves blowing insulation material, such as mineral wool or polystyrene beads, into the cavity using special equipment. Injected insulation involves drilling holes into the walls and injecting the insulation material into the cavity using a special pump. Both methods are effective and can be used in most types of buildings.

Cavity wall insulation is a popular choice for homeowners because it is a cost-effective way to reduce energy bills and improve the comfort of a home.

Benefits of Cavity Wall Insulation

There are many benefits to cavity wall insulation, including:

1. Reduced Energy Bills

Cavity wall insulation can significantly reduce the amount of heat that escapes through the walls of a home. This means that less energy is required to heat the home, which can result in lower energy bills.

According to the Energy Saving Trust, cavity wall insulation can save homeowners from £180-£690 per year on their heating bills. Over the lifetime of the insulation (which is typically around 25 years), this can add up to significant savings.

2. Increased Comfort

Cavity wall insulation can also improve the comfort of a home by reducing drafts and cold spots. It can help to keep the home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, which can make it a more pleasant place to live.

3. Reduced Carbon Footprint

By reducing the amount of energy required to heat a home, cavity wall insulation can also help to reduce the carbon footprint of a household. This can be a great way to make a positive impact on the environment.

4. Increased Property Value

Cavity wall insulation is a home improvement that can increase the value of a property. Many homebuyers are looking for energy-efficient homes, and cavity wall insulation can be a selling point.

The Cost of Cavity Wall Insulation

The cost can vary depending on a number of factors, including the size of the property, the type of material used, and the installation method.

On average, the cost is around £900-£1200 for a semi-detached house. However, this cost can be significantly higher or lower depending on the factors mentioned above.

It’s worth noting that this is a long-term investment that can pay off in the form of reduced energy bills and increased property value. While the upfront cost may seem high, it is important to consider the long-term benefits.

How to Know if Your Home Needs Cavity Wall Insulation

Not all homes are suitable for cavity wall insulation. Some older properties may not have a cavity, while others may have a cavity that is too narrow to be filled.

To find out if your home is suitable for cavity wall insulation, you can contact a professional insulation company. They will be able to carry out a survey of your property and advise you on the best insulation options based on your specific needs.

It’s also worth noting that if your home was built after the 1990s, it is likely to already have cavity wall insulation installed.

The Installation Process of Cavity Wall Insulation

Installing insulation in the cavities of your walls isn’t generally a job that you can do yourself. It requires specialist equipment and skills to do it correctly. The installation process of cavity wall insulation typically involves the following steps:

1. A professional insulation company will carry out a survey of your property to determine if it is suitable for cavity wall insulation.
2. If your property is suitable, the insulation company will schedule an installation date.
3. On the day of installation, the insulation company will drill holes into the walls and inject or blow the insulation material into the cavity.
4. Once the insulation is installed, the holes will be filled and made good.
5. The installation process typically takes around half a day to complete.

It is important to choose a reputable insulation company to carry out the installation to ensure that it is done correctly. Dyson Energy Services, established in 1982, is one of the UK’s leading companies providing energy-saving solutions to residential homes.

image source dysonenergyservices.co.uk

How to Choose the Right Insulation Material

When choosing an insulation material for cavity wall insulation, there are a few factors to consider, including:

• The thermal conductivity of the material (i.e. how well it traps heat)
• The environmental impact of the material
• The cost of the material

Some common insulation materials used for cavity wall insulation include mineral wool, polystyrene beads, and foam. Each material has its own pros and cons, and it is important to choose the right material for your specific needs.

It’s also worth noting that some insulation materials may be more suitable for certain types of properties. For example, foam insulation may be more suitable for properties that are located in areas with high levels of wind or rain.

Maintenance and Upkeep of Cavity Wall Insulation

Cavity wall insulation requires very little maintenance once it has been installed. However, it is important to check it periodically to ensure that it is still in good condition.

If you notice any signs of dampness or mould on the walls, this could be a sign that there is a problem with the insulation. In this case, it is important to contact a professional insulation company to carry out an inspection.

Potential Savings on Energy Bills with Cavity Wall Insulation

As mentioned earlier, cavity wall insulation can save homeowners up to 25% on their heating bills. This can add up to significant savings over the lifetime of the insulation.

For example, if you currently spend £1,000 per year on heating, cavity wall insulation could save you up to £250 per year. Over the lifetime of the insulation (which is typically around 25 years), this could add up to savings of £6,250.

Insulation for Cavity Walls – Conclusion

Cavity wall insulation is a cost-effective way to reduce energy bills, increase the comfort of your home, and reduce your carbon footprint. While the upfront cost may seem high, the long-term benefits make it a smart financial investment for homeowners.

If you’re interested in cavity wall insulation, it’s important to choose a reputable company to carry out the installation and to choose the right material for your specific needs. With the right insulation in place, you can enjoy a more comfortable and energy-efficient home for years to come.

The post Cavity Wall Insulation: A Great Home Improvement Investment appeared first on DIY Extra.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the different types of insulation available, the benefits of each, and how to determine which one is right for your home. We’ll also cover the installation process and provide tips for maintaining your insulation for maximum effectiveness. Say goodbye to chilly nights and hello to a warm and comfortable home with our ultimate guide to loft insulation.

Understanding Loft Insulation

Loft insulation is a type of insulation that is installed in the attic or loft space of a home. It works by preventing warm air from escaping through the roof and into the atmosphere, which can significantly reduce heat loss and keep your home warm and cosy.

Loft insulation is particularly important in older homes or homes with poor insulation, as they are more likely to experience heat loss. By properly insulating your loft space, you can reduce your energy bills and make your home more environmentally friendly.

There are several different types of loft insulation available, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. In the next section, we’ll explore these different types in more detail.

Types of Loft Insulation

There are several different types of loft insulation available, including blanket insulation, loose-fill insulation, and rigid board insulation.

1. Blanket Loft Insulation

Blanket insulation is probably the most common type of insulation used in lofts. It is relatively easy to lay due to the fact it is supplied in rolls that fit easily between standard joist gaps and can be a cheap insulation solution. Blanket insulation is available in a variety of materials, including recycled and natural materials, as well as a variety of widths and thicknesses (depths).

2. Recycled or Natural Blanket Insulation

This is generally much more expensive, but does have the benefit of generally offering better insulation in a thinner layer, and being much nicer to install (it won’t make you itch and sneeze like standard insulation material will). You can lay it in almost exactly the same way as above, but you should check the specification to ensure the right depth is used.

3. Loose-fill Loft Insulation

Loose-fill insulation can be used as an alternative to blanket insulation, and is particularly useful for loft spaces that are awkwardly shaped, or that have access restrictions (it is easier to transport due to the fact it comes in bags smaller than a roll of blanket insulation). As with blanket insulation, loose-fill insulation is available in conventional and recycled versions (such as recycled paper)

4. Slab or Rigid-board Loft Insulation

Slab insulation is basically the same as blanket insulation, but comes in large slabs rather than rolls and is often more dense. As with blanket insulation, slab insulation comes in a variety of widths to fit different joist gaps. You can also buy extra high-density slabs, which can help with sound insulation. Simply lay the slabs into the gap between joists and cut to fit as necessary. As with other insulation types, wear gloves and a mask to avoid irritation.

How to Measure Your Loft Space

Before installing loft insulation, it’s important to measure your loft space to determine how much insulation you will need. To do this, you will need to measure the length and width of your loft space and multiply the two numbers together to get the square footage.

You will also need to measure the depth of your current insulation to determine how much additional insulation you will need. The recommended depth for loft insulation is typically between 250mm and 270mm, so if your current insulation is less than this, you may need to add more.

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Blanket Loft Insulation

If you decide to install loft insulation yourself, here is a step-by-step guide to help you get started. Laying blanket insulation is fairly easy, but you should follow some basic rules to give the best results and to keep yourself safe.

1 – The first step is to sweep the areas between the joists, getting rid of any dirt and debris laying on the plasterboard/lath and plaster surface. If the plasterboard is silver-backed and in good condition, you shouldn’t need to lay a vapour barrier. If not, it is always advisable to lay one before you lay the insulation.

2 – Vapour barrier can be bought in rolls, then simply laid out between the joists and cut to length. It should then be stapled to the inside face of the joists along both edges to hold it in place. If you need to, simply cut holes in the vapour barrier sheet to accommodate pipework or electrical fittings.

3 – You can now start laying the blanket insulation, making sure you are wearing eye, mouth and nose protection, as well as gloves. A useful tip is to not unpack the rolls from their plastic packaging until they are in the loft space, to avoid insulation fibres getting spread over the rest of the house. Roll out the blanket insulation between the first two joists, taking care not to compress the material too much, and tucking it in against the sides of the joist.

4 – Continue to lay the blanket insulation in all of the gaps between joists. If you reach the end of a roll in the middle of a run, simply butt the next roll up against it, making sure that there is no gap between the two sections.

5 – The insulation should be cut to fit around any electrical fittings that are sited in the middle of a run. If you don’t do this, the insulation could cause the electrical fitting to overheat, so this is an important step. Any electrical wiring that runs along the gaps between joists should be lifted above the insulation, so that does not overheat. It can be laid on top of the insulation blanket safely.

6 – If required, you can build up layers of blanket insulation to meet your own requirements or any local insulation regulations. If you plan to lay hardboard over the blanket insulation to form a floor surface, you may need to increase the depth of the joists to avoid the insulation being compressed too much. You can do this by nailing wooden battens, of the required thickness, on top of the joists.

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Loose-fill Insulation

Laying loose-fill insulation is easier than laying blanket insulation, but will require a bit of additional preparation.

1 – Just as with blanket insulation, you should clean out the gaps between the joists, and lay a vapour barrier (if the ceiling plasterboard isn’t silver-backed). Roll out the vapour barrier material between the joists, and staple it in place along the inside edges of the joists.

2 – To avoid the loose-fill material from escaping through the small gaps under the eaves, you should cut and lay a small barrier of blanket insulation all the way around the edge of the roof space. You only need a small 400mm section of blanket, that you lay between the joists where they meet the eaves. If the roof is lined with a non-breathable felt, leave a small gap between the blanket barrier and the eaves gap, to allow for ventilation.

3 – You can now start to lay the loose-fill material. Working from the eaves on one side of the roof space to the other, begin to carefully pour the loose-fill material between the joists. Fill the gap up to the top of the joist level. When you fill one section of the area, use an offcut of plywood or MDF, cut to the same width as the gap between joists, to scrape the material flat and level all the way across the roof. Any excess can be moved into the next gap to be filled.

4 – Once the loose insulation is all laid and levelled off, you should have even coverage across the entire loft space. If you need to meet depth regulations, check the depth by pushing a tape measure down through the fill to the plasterboard.

5 – Unlike blanket insulation, you can’t simply cut a section out to avoid electrical fittings. Instead, build a small wooden square or rectangular frame that can sit around the fitting and hold back the loose-fill material. An alternative is to create a tube of thick cardboard that can be placed around the fitting in the same way to hold back the loose-fill.

Deep Filling Loose-fill Insulation

It is possible to deep fill this type of insulation, but it will mean that the joists are obscured and the space is unusable. Just continue to pour loose-fill material over the top of the existing layer, until it is at the depth you require. You will probably need to create some sort of movable platform to stand on as you work, as the joists will be obscured.

It may be better to instead install a decking of boards over the joist-level filling. This will provide an extra level of insulation, and also mean the roof space is usable for storage, etc.

Common Loft Insulation Problems and How to Solve Them

While loft insulation can be an effective way to keep your home warm, there are some common problems that can occur. One of the most common issues is condensation buildup, which can occur if the loft space is not properly ventilated.

To prevent condensation buildup, it’s important to ensure that your loft space is properly ventilated. This can be done by installing vents or by leaving a small gap between the insulation and the roof to allow air to circulate.

Another common problem is draughts, which can occur if there are gaps in the insulation. To prevent draughts, be sure to seal any gaps with foam sealant and cover the insulation with plastic sheeting.

Maintenance and Upkeep of Loft Insulation

To ensure maximum effectiveness, it’s important to maintain and upkeep your loft insulation. This can be done by regularly checking for any gaps or damage and repairing them as necessary.

It’s also important to ensure that your loft space is properly ventilated to prevent condensation buildup and to regularly check for any signs of dampness or mold.

Energy Savings and Cost Benefits of Loft Insulation

By properly insulating your loft space, you can significantly reduce your energy bills and make your home more environmentally friendly. In fact, loft insulation can save you up to £590 per year on your energy bills, according to the Energy Saving Trust. This is based on the difference between an uninsulated loft and a loft with 270mm of insulation.

While the initial cost of loft insulation can vary depending on the type of insulation you choose and whether you opt for DIY or professional installation, the long-term cost benefits make it a worthwhile investment.

Installing Insulation for Lofts – Conclusion

Proper loft insulation can make a significant difference in the comfort and energy efficiency of your home. By understanding the different types of insulation available, measuring your loft space, and properly installing and maintaining your insulation, you can keep your home warm all winter long while also saving money on your energy bills.

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How to Choose the Right Screw for the Job

There are dozens of different screw sizes and types available. Some screws are suitable for multiple jobs and with several different materials. Others are designed for specific building, construction, or home improvement jobs.

Choosing the correct screws for your DIY projects can make a huge difference to how smoothly the project goes, and how good it looks.

Wood Screws

As the name suggests, wood screws are made to be used to attach pieces of wood together. Wood screws tend to be thinner and more flexible than screws for metal or masonry, allowing them to bend slightly as the wood naturally expands or contracts.

Wood screws also commonly have deep threads, which allow them to grip the fibres of timber, and prevent them from being easily ripped out. Screws designed for use with hardwoods often have a double or twin thread which helps them cut into the harder material.

Metal Screws

Metal screws usually have a tighter and smaller thread than wood screws, which allows them to cut into the material more slowly and precisely. Screws designed for use with sheet metal, such as roofing materials or corrugated iron, are almost always self-tapping. That means that blade-like threads on the tip of the screw cut their own hole in the metal, without the need to pre-drill holes.

Self-tapping screws often have hex washer heads for use with a socket driver, but you can also buy them with standard slot and Philips heads.

Masonry Screws

Standard masonry screws are very similar to wood screws, only with a thicker shaft and slightly tighter thread. Screws that are designed to be driven directly into concrete, called frame fixings or anchor bolts, have very thick shafts compared to their small, widely-spaced threads.

Security Screws

Security screws (also called clutch or one-way screws) are designed to be difficult or impossible to unscrew with a standard screwdriver. The heads of the security screws are shaped in such a way that means they can only be turned one way, to tighten them.

This makes them perfect for attaching high-value items, like security cameras, to external walls. They are also often used to affix window security grills, preventing a burglar from easily removing them to gain entry.

Coach Screws

Coach screws, often known as called Lag Screws or Coach Bolts, are heavy-duty fixings used mainly in construction or landscaping. Coach screws are very strong with a relatively wide and thick thread, making them perfect for screwing heavy pieces of timber together. Our guide to building retaining walls with railway sleepers recommends using coach bolts.

Coach Screws almost always have a large hex head, and are designed to be used with a spanner or socket driver.

Machine Screws

Machine screws look like bolts with narrow shafts because they generally don’t have a tapered tip. They can either be used with a nut, or in a pre-tapped hole (a hole with a matching thread cut into it.)

Machine screws are often used to fasten metal components together. Toggle fixings for plasterboard commonly use a machine screw, for example. You can buy self-tapping machine screws, which are usually made from stainless steel.

The Difference Between Twin and Single Threaded Screws

Wood screws, and some other types, are variously described as having single or twin threads. But what does this mean, and what is the difference between the two?

Single Thread Screws

The thread on a single-thread screw features a single continuous spiral around the shaft. Single-threaded screws are usually cheaper than twin threaded and are better suited for use with softwoods.

Twin Thread Screws

Twin thread screws have two separate threads that spiral around the shaft opposite each other. Because each individual thread spiral is spaced widely along the shaft, twin-threaded screws tighten up much faster than single-thread screws. They also tend to be much more secure once screwed into the material.

Types of Screw Head

There is an almost bewildering range of different screw heads available. Some are quite specialised and won’t often be needed for general DIY and home improvement projects. Here are some of the most commonly used screw heads, and where each should be used.

Countersunk Head

Used for general joinery. Ideal if you need the head to be flush with the material.

Raised Countersunk Head

Normally used in ironmongery or if screw caps are going to be used for a cleaner finish.

Dome Head

Used for fixing mirrors and plastic sheets or panels. Head can be topped with a decorative dome or plastic clip-on cover.

Round or Button head

Generally used for fixing sheet material which is too thin to be countersunk.

Bugle Head

Designed to be used specifically with plasterboard and fibreboard. The more extended taper on the head helps to spread the load over a larger area than standard countersunk heads.

Types of Drive

Not only are there several different styles of screw heads, there are also lots of different drive styles. This means the shape of the slot or hole in the head where the tool used to drive the screw into the material is fitted. The most common examples are cross head (Philips) or slot head.

Phillips (Cross head) Drive

The standard drive type for most screws.

Frearson Drive

Similar to Phillips. Requires a Frearson driver for installation.

Slotted Drive

A simple slot in the head.

Combination Drive

A combination of slotted and Phillips drives.

Socket or Hex Drive

A hexagonal hole for use with an Allen Key.

One-way/Security Drive

Installs with a normal slotted driver but can not be removed without special tools.

Square Drive

A simple square hole that requires a special driver. Also known as Robertson Drive.

Star Drive

Also known as Torx. A six-pointed star pattern, specifically designed to prevent cam-out and stripped heads.

Types of Washer

The post UK Screw Sizes and Types – Everything You Need to Know appeared first on DIY Extra.

How Much Wallpaper Will You Need?

There are several things you need to consider when estimating how much wallpaper you will need to finish a room, not just the length and width of the rolls you have chosen. For example, using patterned wallpaper can require more rolls because there will naturally be more waste as you match up the pattern.

A standard roll of wallpaper is 53cm wide and 10m long, so once you know the size of your room it is fairly easy to work out how many rolls you will need to finish it. But even if the wallpaper you are buying is not of a standard size, there is a simple way to calculate the total amount required.

Firstly, measure the height of the walls from skirting to ceiling (or bottom edge of the coving) and divide the length of the roll by this figure to see how many wall lengths you get from each roll. For example, if your room is 2.4 meters high, you will get four wall lengths from a standard 10m roll.

Now measure around the walls, minus the windows and doors, to see how many widths fit into the total length of the walls. So if your walls measure 12 meters in total and the wallpaper is 53cm wide, you need to divide 1200 by 53.

Finally, divide this figure (22.6) by the number of wall lengths in a roll and you will know how many rolls you will need to buy to complete the room. In this example, you will need 5.6 rolls to wallpaper the whole room. We would recommend buying seven rolls to account for mistakes and to allow for a trim margin.

If that all sounds too complicated, you can also use a wallpaper calculator to work out how much you need.

How to Choose Wallpapering Paste

There are several different types of wallpaper paste available, with most being sold as a powder or flakes which are mixed with water. You can also buy pre-mixed wallpapering paste, which is more expensive but can be easier to use as a beginner.

• All-Purpose Paste – As the name suggests, this is a general-purpose paste that is fine for hanging light to medium-weight wallpaper. If mixed with slightly less water, an all-purpose paste can be used to hang heavy paper.
• Heavy-Duty Paste – Designed to be used for heavy wallpaper such as embossed paper. Can also be used for paper-backed fabric and other heavy wallcoverings.
• Fungicidal Paste – Although most wallpaper paste contains some fungicidal additives, if you are hanging either washable wallpaper, vinyl, or foils it is worth getting proper fungicidal paste. If your room suffers from mould growth due to condensation, a fungicidal paste can really help to reduce the problem.
• Ready-Mixed Paste – Ready-mixed Thixotropic pastes are widely available and are used for hanging heavier-weight wallpaper. The pre-mixed paste is generally more expensive than powdered or flaked paste.

Tools You Will Need for Wallpapering

There are hundreds of specialist wallpapering tools available, but you will probably not need many of them for a standard wallpapering job. At the very least you will need:

• Bucket – A clean plastic bucket, used for holding wallpaper paste. Tie a length of string across the top, between the handle brackets, so you can rest your pasting brush on it.
• Craft Knife – A sharp craft knife is better for cutting heavy paper or vinyl than scissors. Remember to use with a metal straight edge.
• Metal Rule/Straight-edge – Make sure this is at least long enough to span the width of the paper.
• Pasting Brush – Your pasting brush should be at least 100mm wide and used only for pasting.
• Pasting Table – If you plan on doing a lot of wallpapering, a purpose-built pasting table is a great investment. You can pick up a brand new one for around £20.

You can find out more about the tools you might need when hanging wallpaper in our Wallpaper Tools Guide.

Preparation – Before You Start Hanging Wallpaper

Get everything ready that you will need for the job. Now measure the height of the room and add 100mm (4 inches) so you have a margin that can be trimmed later. Write the measurement somewhere you can easily see it (in case you forget).

If you are using heavily patterned wallpaper, it is a good idea to allow slightly more at the top and bottom to give yourself a better degree of adjustment. Cut your first four strips and lay them face down on the pasting table.

Make sure the surface you are wallpapering is clean and free from dust, holes, nails, etc., and that it is dry. If you are hanging paper on a newly plastered wall, ensure the plaster skim coat is completely dry before you start.

How to Paste the Wallpaper

Slapping on some wallpaper paste may seem like one of the easiest parts of the whole wallpapering process, but there are several things you can do to ensure things go smoothly when you come to hang the paper.

1. Firstly, use a proper pasting brush and make sure the paste is well-mixed. Line the strip of wallpaper up with the far edge of the table to avoid getting paste on the surface which will then get onto the face of any subsequent sheets you lay down.
2. Paste from the middle to the edge and brush out any lumps of paste as you notice them. With one half of the sheet pasted, pull it towards you to line up with the closest edge of the table and paste the other half of the sheet.
3. To paste the end of the sheet hanging over the edge of the table, fold the pasted end over onto itself (but don’t press it down) and slide the paper along. Once the other end of the sheet is pasted, fold it in to almost meet the opposite end.

You now need to let the paste soak into the paper so move the pasted sheet out of the way. You can hang it over a broom handle laid across the backs of two chairs if you don’t want to lay it on a dust sheet. While the first sheet is soaking, you can paste a second sheet. Then, when hanging the first sheet, the second sheet will be soaking.

Where Should You Start Wallpapering?

The best place to start wallpapering a room can vary. If your room has a dominant feature (chimney breast, etc) start there. If starting on a chimney breast, measure it and mark a straight line down the centre with a pencil or chalk. Use this line as a straight edge for the first strip and work outwards.

If the room has no dominant feature, start on the wall closest to the wall that contains the window. This will help reduce shadows being as visible if you have slight overlaps between strips of wallpaper.  Start in the corner by measuring out by a distance equal to the width of the paper, minus 50mm, and use a plumb line to mark the wall. The first strip should be placed on that line, so it overlaps around the internal corner and onto the window wall by 50mm.

Hanging the First Sheet of Wallpaper

1. Carry the folded strip over to the wall, climb your steps, and allow the paper to unfold. Hold the top of the strip to the wall, allowing for your 50mm overlap.
2. Slide the paper across the wall until in line with your vertical mark. When it is aligned, use a paper-hanging brush to smooth the paper onto the wall.
3. Start by running down the centre, and then out to the edges to get rid of any bubbles.
4. Crease the paper into the angle between the wall and ceiling and then peel the paper gently away from the wall. Trim along the crease with sharp scissors or a trimming knife and then brush the trimmed edges back into place.
5. Repeat this process at the bottom of the wall where the wallpaper meets the skirting board.

You now simply have to repeat this process, using the edge of the previous strip to align the next. Slide the new strip to butt up against the previous one and gently use a seam roller to make sure the edges are firmly stuck down.

Wallpapering Around Corners

Internal Corners:

1. When you reach a corner, measure from the edge of the last full strip of wallpaper to the angle of the corner, and add 10-15mm to the measurement.
2. Mark the width onto the next sheet of wallpaper and trim off the excess, keeping the offcut. Paste the paper onto the wall and brush it carefully into the corner.
3. Measure the width of the offcut and measure that distance from the corner on the new wall. Use a plumb line to mark a straight line at that distance to use it as a guide.
4. Paste the offcut on the inside of the line, into the corner. This thin strip will overlap the 15mm overlap on the last sheet before the corner. This might seem a complicated method, but it usually creates a better corner than trying to paste a full sheet into the corner in one piece.

External Corners:

1. Paper the wall leading up to the corner until there is a gap of less than one full sheet. Measure the gap between the last full sheet and the angle of the corner, then add 25mm to the measurement.
2. Mark and cut the next strip of wallpaper to the measurement you just made. Paste it into place and fold the small overhang around the corner.
3. Now paste the offcut up against the edge of the overlap on the new wall, butting it up just as you would when adding a full sheet of wallpaper.

You can then continue wallpapering until you reach another corner or finish the room.

Door and Windows

When you reach a doorframe, press the paper into the angle between the wall and architrave (wooden surround of a doorframe) and use the blunt edge of a pair of scissors to get a nice clean crease.

Pull the paper away from the wall slightly and trim the excess. Brush the trimmed paper back into place.

When papering around windows, it doesn’t look like there is enough paper to go round. The secret is to cut two patches for the top corners of the window recess. Apply these after you’ve covered the sides of the recess.

How to Avoid Wallpapering Problems

Wallpapering is at times a tricky job, especially if you don’t understand the common problems which can occur without the proper preparation and planning. These tips should help you diagnose and fix many of the most common wallpapering problems and will help you to avoid them in the future.

Paper Tearing

If the wallpaper is tearing when you try to pick it up to apply to the wall, or even when it is attached to the wall, you have probably used too much paste or the paste is too thin. Thicken up the paste and apply less to stop this from happening. If the paper is tearing whilst cutting, check that your scissors or knife is sharp.

White Seams Visible

If, after applying the wallpaper, white seams or lines are showing between the sheets, you have either not butted the sheets together properly or the paper has shrunk as it has dried. Make sure sheets are butted together properly and roll the seam with a Seam Roller. Lining the wall with lining paper will also help stop this problem. It is also important to let the paste soak into the paper properly before hanging.

Bubbles in the Paper

The occasional bubble in wallpaper is hard to avoid, but if you are seeing lots of bubbles, you are doing something wrong. To Prevent bubbles, check that you are not using too much paste and that the paste you do use is evenly spread. Also, make sure you have allowed the paste to soak in properly. To remove bubbles in the paper that has already been hung, pierce with a knife and allow excess paste to escape. If the bubble is air, pierce and flatten, brushing over with a small amount of paste on a brush. Sponge this down after a short while to finish.

Creases in the Paper

Creases sometimes occur when hanging paper around or into a corner. Small creases can be treated like bubbles (see above).

Papered Seams Lifting

Often caused by simply not applying paste right to the edges of the paper. If you did not line the walls before papering, you might also find that some of the seams lift slightly. To fix this problem, peel the seam back slightly and apply the paste to the underside of the paper with a small brush (artist’s brush or similar). Press the seam back in place and roll with a Seam Roller. Wipe the seam with a sponge to remove any paste from the surface of the paper. As a rule, it is always better to line your walls before papering.

Wallpaper Sheets Lifting

Again, this could be because you did not line the wall. It could also be caused by the residue of distemper (an element found in some paints). If you think this might be the problem, remove the paper from the affected area and wash the wall well. Allow it to dry and then rehang the paper.

The post Wallpapering – How to Hang Wallpaper Like an Expert appeared first on DIY Extra.

This guide is based on building a square or rectangular ground-level deck.

Building Ground-level Decking

As mentioned, building your own decking isn’t the easiest of DIY jobs, and will definitely test your skills if you haven’t worked with wood very much before. But with this guide, a bit of careful planning, and as long as you take your time, it is definitely a project almost anyone can complete well.

Creating the Decking Frame

Check your measurements and cut all of the bearers you need to create the outer frame for the deck. Lay all four pieces out flat on the floor, in their correct positions, and fix them together using butt joints at the corners.

You should use screws at least 150mm long to fix the bearers together, and at least two for each corner. Measure diagonally across the frame (both directions) to make sure that it is square and then nail a timber batten diagonally across one of the corners to hold it temporarily to shape.

Measure and mark off points at 400mm intervals along two opposite sides of the frame. These will be the positions of the additional bearers that will create the frame. These extra supports will make the frame more rigid and support the decking boards.

If you are using decking tiles, adapt the width between the support bearers to match the width of the tiles.

Check the gap between the two sides of the frame you just marked and then cut the number of support bearers you need. Position the supports at their marks and fix them in place using 150mm screws. Your frame is now ready to be positioned onto its footings.

Preparing the Site for Decking

If you are building your deck over grass or soil, you will need to prepare the ground before you start. If the deck is going to sit on flat concrete or an area of paving slabs, no footings or foundations will be needed, but you may need to use some thin timber off-cuts to pack out one or more of the corners to make it completely level.

1. Using a tape measure and a handful of wooden pegs or stakes, mark out the area of the deck on the ground. Use the pegs to show where any and all corners will be, and then tie the string between the pegs to give you a guide for digging out the area. If you are planning a perfectly square or rectangular deck, make sure you measure across the diagonals to ensure the corners are square.

2. If building your deck over a lawn, use a straight-edged spade to cut through the turf layer and then divide the area into strips. Roll up the strips of turf and move them to one side. If you are building over an area of rough soil, remove any large stones and flatten the area using an old plank or similar. If you are building a ground-level deck, this stage is much more important and the area should be levelled accurately and checked using a spirit level laid on top of a plank.

3. If the area is well drained and does not suffer from being too damp, all you need to do now is lay down a sheet of a weed-proof membrane (cut to be very slightly larger than the cleared area) and then cover this with a 40-50mm layer of gravel.

If the area is not well drained, or if you simply want to give the timber deck frame something a bit more solid to sit on, place paving slabs at all of the corners and at intervals along the middle of the deck area. These can sit on top of the gravel base and will act as basic foundations for the frame. Use a long spirit level across the gap between the slabs to make sure they are all level and at the same height. If not, tap them down or add more gravel.

An alternative method is to remove the topsoil or turf, place the slabs at the corners and where they will support the middle bearers, and then mark around them with a trowel or other sharp point. Remove the slabs and dig out a further 25-30mm of soil beneath where they were sitting. Fill this hole with fine gravel and flatten it to the level of the surrounding soil. Now lay the slabs back onto their new beds, lay a weed-proof membrane between them, and cover this with more gravel up to the level of the slabs.

4. Move the frame into position on the slabs (you may need help to do this) and make sure that it is sitting evenly and not rocking when you stand on it. Your decking frame is now ready to start taking the decking boards or tiles.

Fixing the Decking Boards

Fixing the decking boards accurately and evenly is the main thing that separates the building of a nice deck and a stunning deck. Cut the boards carefully, measure and check your measurements and take your time. It is far better to spend an extra day finishing off your deck than rushing it and making a mess of it. Cut several boards at once and paint the cut ends with preservative before you fix them to the frame.

– Fixing the First Boards
The decking boards will lay at a right angle to the supporting bearers. Starting at the edge of the frame furthest away from the wall (if the deck is next to the house), lay the first board along the edge of the deck. Make sure that it is flush with the face of the frame. Use appropriate length decking screws to fix the board to the frame at each bearer, positioning the screws in one of the grooves if you are working with the textured side up.

There should be a gap between each board of between 3 and 10mm. Find a few offcuts of wood at the required thickness and use these to maintain the gap between each board you lay. Continue to lay boards, taking care to make sure the ends line up until you have boarded all the way to the wall.

– Finishing the Deck
The final board probably won’t fit exactly in the final space, so you will need to trim a board to fit. Measure the gap that remains and transfer the measurement to a decking board. Make sure you take into account the gap between the boards. Trim the board to fit and paint the cut edge with wood preservative. Lay this final board in place and fix it using decking screws.

To complete your ground-level deck, attach some fascia boards along the visible edges to cover up the bearers and cut ends of the decking boards. The fascia can simply be square-edged treated timber that matches the rest of the deck. Screw the fascia boards to the bearers using deck screws. The corners should be mitred to give a professional finish.

The post Building Ground-Level Decking appeared first on DIY Extra.

However, to ensure a successful installation it’s important to follow the correct steps. This guide will take you through the dot and dab process step-by-step.

What is Dot and Dab?

Dot and dab, also known as dry lining or direct bonding, is a method of lining internal walls that involves applying adhesive dots to the masonry and pressing plasterboard onto them. This creates a strong and secure bond between the wall and the plasterboard, making it a popular choice for DIY enthusiasts and professional builders alike.

The process is relatively quick and easy, but it’s important to understand the pros and cons of using dot and dab if you want to ensure a professional finish.

Pros and Cons of the Dot and Dab Method

Like any construction method, dot and dab has its advantages and disadvantages.

One advantage is that it’s a quick and easy way to fix plasterboard to masonry walls, making it a popular choice for those on a tight schedule. You don’t have the added work of creating a stud framework (another method of dry lining a wall,) and the finished surface will often feel more solid than when plasterboard is applied to a frame.

However, one disadvantage is that it can be difficult to achieve a perfectly flat finish with the dot and dab method, as the adhesive dots can create slight bumps in the wall. Additionally, if the adhesive is not applied correctly, it can lead to problems with dampness and mould in the future.

Dot and dab is not a method that can be used with foil-backed plasterboard. The bond between the foil and the board is not strong enough, so the plasterboard could easily pull away from the adhesive.

Materials Needed for Dot and Dab Installation

Before beginning a dot and dab installation, gather all the necessary materials. At a minimum, you will need the following:

• Plasterboard Sheets
• Plasterboard Adhesive
• PVA Sealer
• Plasterers Trowel
• Spirit level
• Plasterboard Saw/Stanley Knife
• Measuring Tape

If the wall is particularly uneven, a long straight edge can help to ensure the plasterboard is installed correctly and evenly.

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Dot and Dab Walls

Installing Dot and Dab walls is a DIY project almost anyone can attempt, and with a bit of care, achieve great results. This step-by-step guide will help you get started:

1. Treat the wall with PVA sealer mixed with water to stop the bare masonry sucking the moisture out of the adhesive. Let this dry completely.
2. Cut the plasterboards for the entire job before you start fixing them (including any holes for plumbing, electrics, or fixtures.) The adhesive goes off fairly quickly, so you can waste a lot if you aren’t ready to apply it straight after mixing it.
3. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix your chosen adhesive in a clean bucket. You can use skimming plaster, but plasterboard adhesive is easier for beginners. The mixture should be smooth and thick enough to stand on the trowel (or hawk, if you’re using one).
4. Start to apply the adhesive to the wall in (small) fist-sized dots, spaced 20-30cm (8-12 inches) apart. Press firmly and spread the adhesive dots slightly to ensure they have adhered to the masonry, but try to keep them the same size/depth.
5. If the wall is uneven, use slightly less or slightly more adhesive as needed in those places to account for the variation. We also recommend applying a solid strip of adhesive where the edges of the plasterboard will be to prevent insects from getting into the cavity.
   
6. Hold the pre-cut plasterboard up to the wall and press it slightly into the adhesive. You should feel it grip quite easily, you don’t need to press hard. Ensure it is pressed in evenly all over.
7. Use your spirit level to level the board vertically and horizontally. Check the edge of this first board is perfectly square along the edge where the next board will butt up against it. Getting the first plasterboard right will save headaches when lining up later boards.
8. Repeat the process until the wall is completely lined with plasterboard. Use a straight-edge to ensure each subsequent board is level and flush with the one next to it.

You can then finish off by sealing the joints between the plasterboards, and then skimming the wall.

Tips for Successful Dot and Dab Plasterboarding

While Dot and Dab is a relatively simple process, there are a few tips to keep in mind that will help to ensure a successful installation.

• Ensure the masonry wall is clean, free from debris, and treated with a PVA mixture. This will ensure that the adhesive sticks properly.
• Different adhesives are designed for different types of plasterboard. Be sure to use the correct type of adhesive for the job.
• Take care to ensure that each piece of plasterboard is level and properly aligned with the others, as any mistakes at this stage can be difficult to correct later on.
• Make sure you leave a gap at the bottom of the wall to allow for the expansion of the plasterboard.

Dot and Dab – Frequently Asked Questions

Should You Wet the Wall Before Dot and Dab?

Many professional tradespeople will wet the surface of the masonry before applying the adhesive dots and dabs. This is to help prevent the dry blocks or bricks from sucking the moisture out of the adhesive. If you use this method, you need to apply the adhesive quite quickly, and you may find using a PVA/water mixture to be more forgiving.

Is Dot and Dab Better Than Plastering?

Unless you are trained or experienced, plastering is a hard thing to do well, and DIY-ers will probably find dry-lining easier. That said, plastering a masonry wall will usually result in a much stronger surface than applying plasterboards using the dot and dab method. And you won’t need to take an awkwardly-sized cavity into account when you fix things to the wall in the future.

Can You Skim Over Dot and Dab Walls?

Yes, you can either decorate directly on top of the bare surface of the plasterboards or apply a layer of skim plaster. In either case, it is recommended that the joints between the boards be filled with joint compound before adding the finish layer.

The post Dot and Dab – What it is and How it’s Done appeared first on DIY Extra.

Bear in mind that choosing to concrete in fence posts will add several days to the overall completion time of the project, as you will need to allow time for the concrete to set properly.

Tools You will need:
– Narrow Spade or Large Trowel
– Spirit Level
– Gravel
– Sand
– Cement
– Wood Preservative (optional)

Choosing and Treating Wooden Fence Posts

Before you start digging holes, concentrate on the fence posts. If you want the posts, and the fence, to last many years, it is recommended that you use pressure-treated timber. If possible, choose fence posts made from heartwood rather than sapwood. Just be aware that heartwood posts will be more expensive.

If your fence is going to be 6ft (1.83m) high, your posts need to be at least 25% longer, or around 8ft (2.4m.)

No matter the posts you choose, to help to stop the bottom of the post from rotting over time, paint (at least) the part which will be buried with Wood Preservative and let this dry. You might want to consider painting the bottom of the fence panels at the same time.

Digging The Fence Post Holes

You can now start digging the holes for the concrete and fence posts. The distance between the posts will usually be defined by the fence panels you are using, which are usually 6ft (1.83m). Measure a panel accurately to find the gap you need to leave between posts.

1. Using a narrow spade, dig the first hole, making it roughly 3x wider on all sides than the post (e.g. for a 4×4 inch post, make your hole 12in wide) and at least 2ft deep.
2. Shovel a 3-4 inch layer of gravel into the bottom of the hole. This will help with drainage and prevent water from collecting at the base of the post.
3. Using the measurement from the panel, measure from the middle of the first hole to the required position of the next. If the fence isn’t running along an obvious boundary line, it is worth setting up a string line to keep the holes in a perfect row.
4. Dig the second hole out, and repeat the process until all holes are dug and ready for posts to be inserted. This helps you to avoid wasting concrete later.

Mixing the Concrete for the Post Holes

You have a couple of options for the concrete you use to set fence posts: Ready-mix/Post-mix or mixing up the concrete yourself. For one or two holes, post-mix can be easier. But if you have a lot of holes to fill with concrete, it might be better to mix your own in a larger quantity.

If mixing your own, make up a fairly dry concrete mix using 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts aggregate (1:2:3 mix) in a cement mixer, if you have that luxury, or on a board or wheelbarrow if not. Your mix should not be too wet as this will not support the posts whilst it hardens as well as a dryer mix will.

Setting the Fence Posts in Concrete

Now it’s time to concrete in the fence posts. If you have some helping hands to hold the post (or shovel), so much the better.

1. Set the post firmly into the hole and hold it upright whilst you shovel in concrete evenly around it.
2. If you don’t have help, clamp lengths of wood to the post to act as temporary braces. Be careful to check that the post is upright with your spirit level before and while you add the concrete.
3. Aim to leave the surface of the concrete slightly below ground level so that you can cover it with soil when it is set.
4. Tamp the wet concrete around the post to knock out any air bubbles and firm it down. If possible, slope the surface of the concrete away from the post slightly to stop water pooling around it.
5. Double-check that the post is upright and then leave it braced in position for 2 or 3 days. Check that the concrete has set fully before removing the braces and continuing with the construction of the rest of the fence/structure.

The post How to Concrete in Fence Posts appeared first on DIY Extra.

By following these simple rules, you will allow the radiator to provide the most warmth and perhaps save a little on your heating bills.

Does it Matter Where You Place a Radiator?

It can be easy to assume that a radiator installed anywhere in a room will heat it the same no matter what. But positioning the main source of room heat in the wrong place can have a drastic effect on how efficiently it works. You don’t have to be a master of thermodynamics, but it helps to understand a little about how hot air behaves, and how it interacts with cold air.

If your radiator isn’t producing as much heat as you think it should, it might be less to do with position and more to do with needing to be bled. Here’s how to bleed a radiator quickly and easily.

Why Install a Radiator Under a Window?

Although it is common in UK homes, many people wrongly think that by positioning the radiator under a window, all you are doing is wasting heat as it rises against the cold glass. In reality, placing the radiator there will give the best results in most cases. Even in a modern house with modern double or triple-glazed windows.

The warm air rising from the radiator will counteract the cold air falling from the glass of the window, meaning that the cold air has less chance to spread into the room. This cold air is far less obvious thanks to modern windows, but if you live in a period property with period windows it can make a huge difference.

Another advantage of placing the radiator underneath the window is that this wall is usually left free of furniture and so you make better use of the available space. Even if a wall is free from furniture at present, you might decide to rearrange the room at some point in the future.

Placing a large piece of furniture in front of a radiator isn’t the end of the world, but it will act as a barrier to the heat spreading around the room.

When to Install a Radiator Opposite a Window

The position of your new radiator is less critical if you have double-glazed windows, as there will be far less cold air seeping into the room and less warm air escaping.

However, if you do not have double-glazed windows it is usually better not to position a radiator directly opposite a large window. The warm air rising on one side of the room and the cold air falling on the other can sometimes exaggerate the flow of air around the room and create a noticeable draught.

If you have no other choice but to position the radiator opposite a window, you can disrupt this rotating flow of air by positioning a shelf slightly above the top of the radiator. This will force the hot air out into the room, rather than into the flow of cold air.

Which Style of Radiator is Better?

Not too long ago, domestic radiators were all a similar size and shape, i.e. various-sized flat, rectangular panels that took up a lot of wall space. Nowadays, you can find radiators in a much wider variety of sizes and shapes.

Unfortunately, there is no “best” size and style to recommend. it all depends on the size, style, and configuration of the room, as well as the decor style you want to achieve and how well your house is insulated. In a modern house, where insulation is good, an upright radiator might be desirable because they use up far less space on the wall (and look great too.) A Victorian terraced house might suit an imitation cast iron radiator instead.

Where You Should Avoid Placing a Radiator

All radiators, no matter the style, work in essentially the same way. So there are certain locations and surroundings that can prevent any radiator from efficiently heating a room. Here are some of the most common:

1. Behind a Sofa/Large Piece of Furniture

It can be tempting to hide an unattractive radiator behind a sofa or other big lump of furniture, but you will certainly reduce its efficiency by doing so. Although heat will still rise from the top of the radiator, most of the heat emitting from the front will be sucked up by the sofa, leaving the rest of the room cold.

2. Covered by Full-length Curtains

Curtains that hang to the floor in front of a radiator will have a similar effect to a sofa in front of it. They prevent the waves of heat from pushing out into the room and instead channel most up towards the window. The thicker your curtains, the more pronounced this blocking effect will be.

3. Behind a Door

Small rooms might not have the wall space for a radiator anywhere but behind the door. Although doing this is not a disaster for room heat, by placing it on a wall facing out onto the (often) unheated hallway, a good portion of the heat will be wasted through the wall. If the door is often left open, in front of the rad, it can also block heat flow into the room.

The post Where Should New Radiators be Installed? appeared first on DIY Extra.