Chef Valimont began his culinary career in Tacoma at The Lobster Shop, later working under Executive Chef Will MacNamara at Seattle’s Washington Athletic Club before taking his knives to the TPC Snoqualmie Ridge Golf Club.  He then trained under Food and Wine “Best New Chef” Gordon Naccarato, opening The Pacific Grill in Seattle first as Sous Chef and ultimately being promoted to Pacific Grill’s Executive Chef.

His quote:

“Each day is a culinary adventure as we create our menu with the fresh seafood the market provides while emphasizing the simplicity of seasonal preparations, regionally inspired dishes and generous portion sizes,” Chef Valimont said. “In addition, our seasoned wine stewards will help select the wine that best compliments our guest’s meal.”

Go in peace.

Former Oceanaire chef Chad Kelly will be the lead chef at Shannon Wynne’s new restaurant The Moth.

NEW PRIORITIES FOR BEATEN-UP CONSUMERS: “Too many restaurant and hotel execs are grappling with pre-recession consumer issues, while people today are expressing entirely new – and more complex — sets of concerns.” Yes, according to these guys, we (consumers) are “personal, emotional and ethical.” That throws me out of the equation, but for you this is very important. Are you familiar with your “hot buttons?” (Beat, beat.) “Hot buttons include: economic survival, reassurance, intimacy & friendship, feeding my knowledge, feeding my emotions, artisan, hand-made, neighborhood, local, authentic, real.” Cold, hard bitches need not apply to 2010. Look for this: “hotels and restaurants should be luring these hunkered down consumers from their psychological storm cellars (Cymbalta?) by replicating the “campfire experience” – building emotional ties and connecting to communities. OH GOODY, more S’MORES!

PUTTING FOCUS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE MENU: Have you ever read about the psychology of menu writing? I’ll bet you didn’t know that the left side of the menu is reserved for “emotional resonance.” In case you don’t watch In Treatment, that translates into creative snacky things, small plates, food sized for one, two, or for a crowd. Sharing is the key because we need comfort and safety for intimacy and friendship. (Hmm, I usually feel safer when I get the whole cake.)

Jump for more joy!

UPSCALING THE DOWNSCALE: (Clever title, eh? I even remember the PBS series.) Anywhoo, next year look for gourmet hamburgers (groan) smothered with fancy cheese (they suggest Manchego) and fancy hot dogs (yes!) served with goat cheese (no) and guacamole (what are these guys smoking?). I’m sorry I just lost respect for this report. “French fries revved up with parmesan cheese and truffle oil”—puhleeze make truffle oil disappear into the tanks of delivery trucks.

FRESH = LOCAL = HAND-MADE = SAFER = BETTER: Do you have “organic” and “natural” fatigue? Your medicine will be exciting “new” comforting words like “fresh” and “local” and “hand-made.” Feel better? The report goes even closer to the ledge: “That’s why farmers markets are catching on everywhere even though food there (sic) costs more than at chain retailers: People are looking for edibles they can trust.” (Yea, my ex-husband is finally out of style.) Be bold—“house-made, locally-made bread, artisan cured salami, chef-pickled vegetables, locally- butchered beef, honey from nearby hives, food purchased from regional farms” will be strong. Vegetable gardens and beehives on roofs! Vegetable gardens at the White House! Rejoice!

FRIED CHICKEN IS THE NEW PORK BELLY: Over it. I am not paying Thomas Keller a zillion dollars for fried chicken.

PUTTING IN “GOOD” ADDITIVES INSTEAD OF TAKING OUT NASTY ONES: This should be a law not a trend.

THEY LAUGHED WHEN WE SAID “TONGUE”: Yes, they did and in Dallas, they will continue to do so. However, in case you travel, eat on Jefferson Avenue or at Charlie Palmer’s,  look for pig’s ears, pork cheeks (yummers), gizzards, tripe, and “other innards” to be chic. They should have titled this entry, “Poor People’s Food is the New Sorta Rich People’s Food.”

LOSING CONTROL OVER LANGUAGE: Talk about burying a lead—look out folks, YOU are in control. Bloggers, Twitters, Facebookers, Yelpers, and Texters are replacing food journalists. OH. MY. GAWD. PR people are also headed to the endangered species list.

SWEET TO BITTER TO TART: Did you know that “a decade or so back, American palates (and food journalism) made a profound shift from sweet to bitter?” (My guess is that drug pusher Howard Schultz did.) That is why you can’t get enough strong coffee, dark chocolate, broccoli rabe, or Brussels sprouts. Don’t worry, the report notes that we are getting older and we all need more “zing” so we will be rebalancing our sour-salty-sweet tastes. Zing is in. Do not forget that. Very 2010.

MENU CHURN: “A crummy economy and declining consumer traffic forces restaurants to poach each other customers by stealing competitors’ top menu items.” WHAT? No, this can’t be. First, I want a job where I can get paid a bazillion dollars for actually getting “crummy” printed in an expensive report. Second, I can’t believe that any self-respecting restaurateur would actually steal from his competition. I guess I can comfort myself in the knowledge that the report predicts: “Cupcakes are popping up in so many places that this trend is sure to self-destruct.” Get Sprinkles on the line, I feel like celebrating!

MEET YOU AT THE SUPERMARKET: Seriously? This is soo 1999. “The frequency of meals eaten away from home was sliding even before the global economic collapse – in large part because fewer women are working…” I can’t even go there, I’m late for my appointment at Jenny Craig.

CATERING TO KIDS: “It’s no accident that kids’ menus are popping up on chain restaurants: The recession did it.” WTF? Once again, I want the job of writing this report next year. Oh, here’s some big news: “Chains such as P.F. Chang and Cheesecake Factory added children’s menus this past summer, with Chipotle Grill following suit.” Shocker.

Here is your homework. Buzzwords for 2010.
Authentic Neapolitan pizza. Lamb riblets. Too many food trucks, not enough curb space. Latino street food. Farmed trout creeps up on farmed salmon (potential movie). Curry- and Indian-spiced fried chicken. Vietnamese sandwiches (bahn mi). Gelati. Global comfort food (HUH?). Artisan hot dogs. Made-to-order ice cream. Chefs turned butchers (Brad Pitt to play Nick Badovinus.). Casual comfort. Touch-screen kiosks and home delivery in fast food outlets. Latino street food. Wood oven cooking. More energy drinks and adulterated waters (interesting choice of words). Mood food.(Excuse me? Mood food? Somebody help me here.) Backyard and rooftop bee hives. Stevia. Kimchee. Urban farms. Griddled burgers. Free food. House-made everything, especially in sandwiches.

Blatant ommission: Frozen yogurt.

Marc’s famous mussels by Kevin Hunter Marple.

Are you crazy about chef Marc Cassel’s mussels? Do you love Spam on your pizza? Is bocce a cheese, a font, or a game? Extra, extra, read all about it.

November 4
Hector’s On Henderson. Wednesday, November 4, Chris Chapman will feature 8 wines from 5 PM to 7:30 PM. All featured wines are $6 per glass and I provide FREE appetizers at the bar. There’s no better deal.Stay for dinner and enjoy our Two for $20 Meal. It’s two courses with choices (including vegetarian) for only $20. Can’t beat it.Enjoy the music of John Freeman from 7 to 10 PM. 214-821-0432

November 6
Adelmo’s. Featuring a five-course, five-wine dinner on Friday, Nov. 6 at 6:30. $50.00 per person plus tax and gratuity. The menu is here.

November 10
Urbano Café. Mitch and Kristen Kauffman love to do their own thing. They are hosting a BYOB five-course wine dinner on November 10th. Customers are encouraged to bring a nice wine and share with others. Details on their website. 214-823-8550.

November 10
Tre Amici. Tre Amici welcomes Robert Rex, winemaker and owner of Deerfield Ranch Winery. Piano music by Adrian King. $99 per person. Full menu and details below. 972-250-4400.

November 10
Dali Wine Bar & Restaurant. Announces Hirsch Wine Tasting featuring the highly acclaimed wines from Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma County. Special guest is Jasmine Hirsch, daughter of founder David Hirsch, and will offer a complimentary tasting of the famed Hirsch wines from 5:45 until 7:45pm.  For your convenience, Dali is pleased to offer special retail pricing and sales of these allocated wines. Details below. 214-6461947

November  16th
Taverna in Fort Worth.Black Truffle Wine Dinner. $65.00 per person plus tax & gratuity. Full menu and details below. 817-885-7502

November 17
Le Cordon Bleu Dallas. Cognac and Armagnac Dinner and Tasting. Please Join the Le Cordon Bleu Slow Food Student Chapter for a Cognac and Armagnac Dinner and Tasting. Only $24 per person. The dinner menu detailed below.

November 17
Seventh Street Shuffle in Fort Worth. Dining critic, cookbook author, and food/travel journalist June Naylor and her partner Cynthia Wahl will kick-off their new culinary adventures company, Texas Toast , with a progressive dinner. The evening begins at 6:30 at Eddie V’s and proceeds to Saint Emilion and Lanny’s Alta Mexican Cocina in Fort Worth. Tickets are $75. Details on their website and below.

November 17
Tramontana. Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Wine Dinner. Enjoy an evening of great food and wine and taste the California family’s wines that honor their Italian heritage. Advantage wine representative Bill Rich will talk about the wines and the family’s interesting history, which of course includes the water spa that bears their name. $50 per person. Menu below. 214-368-4188.

November 17& 18
Crú, A Wine Bar. A wine dinner featuring Barolo wines paired with rare white truffles from Oregon. Cru’s Truffle event is truly remarkable due to the rarity and high demand of the magnificent white truffle. Don’t miss this opportunity to enjoy the best in Italian Barolo wines and this exceptional culinary treat! Shops at Legacy (Plano) on Tuesday, November 17th; West Village (Dallas) on Wednesday, November 18th; Watters Creek (Allen) on Wednesday, November 18th. Featured Guest Speaker: Alfonso Cevola. Details below.

November 19
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. Join Lawry’s For The Release Of The 2009 Nouveau Beaujolais Wines. The world celebrates with France each year on the third Thursday of November. This day marks the release of the nouveau Beaujolais wines. The harvesting of the grapes this year took place from August 27th through September 22nd.  Join Lawry’s and guest speaker Steve Giancotti to be among the first in Dallas to enjoy this years vintage; said to be the best in the past 50 years! Menu and details below.

November 10
Tre Amici. Tre Amici welcomes Robert Rex, winemaker and owner of
Deerfield Ranch Winery. Piano music by Adrian King. $99 per person. 972.250.4400

Join us for this special presentation
November 10th
7:00 pm
Live pianist Adrian King will accompany
$99 a person
Appetizer ~
2004 Deerfield Ranch Sangiovese
Piatto di Formaggi
Featuring Maytag Blue Cheese, Fontina, Goat Cheese, Manchego,
Smoked Gouda, Brie, and English Cheddar with Guinness
Salad ~
2006 Deerfield Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley
Tre Amici Salad
Main Course ~
2002 Deerfield Ranch Super T-Rex, North Coast
8oz Prime Filet wrapped with Applewood Smoked Bacon,
Accompanied with our Gorgonzola Sauce
Dessert~
2004 Deerfield Ranch Shiraz Cuvee
Kahlua Cappuccino Cheesecake
Please call Tre Amici for reservations
972.250.4400
Deerfield Ranch Winery
http://www.deerfieldranch.com/

November 10
Dali Wine Bar & Restaurant
What:            Hirsch Vineyards Complimentary Wine Tasting

When:            Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Where:        Dali Bar, 1722 Routh St., One Arts Plaza, Arts District

Reservations:      Please RSVP at 214-6461947 or paulpinnell@sbcglobal.net

Parking:        Complimentary Valet from 5:45-6:00pm, $2 self parking

Wines to be Tasted:
2008 Bohan Dillon Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
This pinot noir expresses the complexity of the site at Hirsch Vineyards. It is a blend of seventeen fermentation lots containing the fruit of thirty-four discreet farming blocks. All five of the pinot noir clones farmed here are fully represented. Ninety-seven percent of the fruit is estate; the balance is from the adjoining Hellenthal ranch. Thirty per cent is from the older fields; the balance from newer plantings. It is important to note that this wine is made in exactly the same way as the Hirsch and from the same fruit. In other words, it is a true ‘village’ wine and represents exceptional value.
2007Hirsch “M” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Deep ruby. Exotic spice top note, with layers of leather, cedar, earth, loganberry and raspberry. Rich flavors of plum and ripe berry evolve to a mouth-filling, silken mid-palate showing great finesse textually as the acid structure refreshes the palate and carries the flavors to a sustained, layered finish and the loamy earth notes return.
2006 Hirsch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Garnet. Primary fruit aromas have evolved to a bouquet of earth, leather and sandalwood, with a touch of baking spice. On the palate, mature plum, smoked meat, and mineral flavors dance with a velvet texture across the tongue, leading to an expansive finish of dark plum, espresso and hints of woodsmoke. A suave, seductive wine.

November  16th
Taverna in Fort Worth
BLACK TRUFFLE WINE DINNER
Monday, November  16th.

ANTIPASTO
Carpaccio di Bue al Tartufo Nero
Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio served with Baby Wild Arugula, Royal Trumpet Mushrooms,
Meyer Lemon dressing, Shaved Parmigiano & Fresh Black Truffles
Lamberti Rose Spumante, Veneto

PRIMO
Taglerini con Salsa di Tatufo Nero
Fresh White Taglerini tossed with Fresh Black Truffles & Butter Sauce
Produttori Nebbiolo Langhe, Piedmont

SECONDO
Carre di Agnello con Tartufo Nero
Whole Roasted Colorado Baby Rack of Lamb finished with Caramelized Shallots,
Fresh Black Truffle Sauce, Scalloped Potato & Sautéed Green Swiss Chard
Ca Bianco Barolo,Piedmont

DOLCI
Pere al Vino Rosso con Gelato
Poached Fresh Pear with Red Wine, Chocolate sauce & Fior di Latte Gelato
Florus Moscadello di Montalcino, Tuscany

$65.00 per person plus tax & gratuity.
Sundance Square, 450 Throckmorton Street, Fort Worth, 817-885-7502
www.tavernaftworth.com

November 17th
Le Technique Restaurant
Le Cordon Bleu Dallas
11830 Webb Chapel Rd.

Dallas, TX  75234

6 pm
$24++ (plus tax and gratuity) Per PersonPlease Join the Le Cordon Bleu Slow Food Student Chapter for a Cognac and Armagnac Dinner and Tasting.  (The dinner menu is detailed below.)

Enjoy a fabulous, student-prepared three-course dinner in the Le Cordon Bleu Dallas’ Le Technique restaurant followed by a presentation and tasting of Cognac and Armagnac.  We will learn about the unique characteristics of each eau-de-vie from the terroir to the distillation and ageing processes.

The tasting is included in the price of the dinner.

Mr. Alain Royer will lead the tasting.  Mr. Royer is a master Cognac blender. Born and raised in Cognac, Mr. Royer worked in his family’s Cognac business and built his own venture that was sold to a large spirits conglomerate.  Mr. Royer is a renowned ambassador for French spirits in the United States and currently resides in Bordeaux.

PLEASE NOTE:
- Attendance is limited to 20 people.
- RSVPs will be taken on a first-come, first-served basis.
- Please RSVP directly to me:  sandy@lifeatthetable.com
- Le Technique is no longer BYOB.  Wine will be available to order to accompany dinner at an additional cost.
Dinner Menu (subject to change):
F I R S T  COUR S E
Butter Poached Lobster Salad
Boston Bibb and Frisée, Blood Orange Supremes,
Toasted Almonds, Vanilla Oil, Fried Salsify, Citrus Vinaigrette

I N T E R ME Z Z O
Pomegranate Sorbet

MA I N  COUR S E
Veal Osso Bucco
Slow Braised Veal Shank, Pommes Purée,
Braised Belgain Endive, Braising Reduction, Fried Sage

DE S S E R T
Winter Squash Bread Pudding
Roasted Butternut & Acorn Squash, Texas Pecans,
Brioche, Crème Chantilly, Bourbon Caramel

November 17
Seventh Street Shuffle
Renowned Food and Travel Journalist Starts Foodie Driven Culinary Tour Company
June Naylor along with partner Cynthia Wahl announces the launch of Texas Toast Culinary Tours

Fort Worth, TX – Every day, cuisine-savvy people in Texas discover more to love about the food and wine originating here. The only trouble is, it’s not always easy to figure out where the best bites and sips await. And sometimes it’s a trick to sort through all the new offerings coming to the fore. Enter Texas Toast Culinary Tours, a new outfit with deep roots in the Lone Star food and wine world. With Texas Toast, foodies get epicurean expertise to lead them down all the right roads in Dallas and Fort Worth and more. Founded in September by well-known dining critic, cookbook author and food/travel journalist June Naylor, Texas Toast shows food lovers where the taste thrills await and who makes food and wine around here downright artful. Texas Toast partner Cynthia Wahl, a longtime colleague of June’s from the Fort Worth Star-Telegram and a graphic designer, helps craft these culinary adventures. Together the pair is plotting paths that the demanding palate will devour with pleasure.

Among the initial events offered by Texas Toast is a series of tasting tours. Each is called a Feeding Frenzy, created for locals and visitors who want a behind-the-scenes look at the most popular restaurants, wine outfits, food producers and brewers in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. The typical Feeding Frenzy outing will happen twice a month, giving guests a chance a chance to eat one small course, with a special wine or cocktail pairing, usually at three different places. Participating restaurants will be linked by neighborhood or cuisine, and guests will get face-time with chefs, talking about what inspires them and how their creations come to life.

By mid 2010, Texas Toast Culinary Tours will also design similar tasting tours for Austin and San Antonio. In spring 2010, the company will launch its Texas Toast Road Trips, with three- to five-day tasting itineraries in the Texas Hill Country, San Antonio and the Big Bend Country in West Texas. By late 2010, Texas Tours will announce plans for tasting trips to New Orleans, Santa Fe and New York.

Texas Tours will also work with clients to customize tours for groups, as desired. These may include:
Half-day tours: Visit a cheesemaker, artisan bakery, wine cellar, or specialty market for tour and tasting; or take a cooking class with noted chef; or enjoy a wine or food seminar with an expert; then top it off with lunch at a leading restaurant. 4 to 5 hours, morning or afternoon.
Full-day tours: Combine several of the ideas found in the half-day tours and include lunch or dinner. 8 hours.
Multi-day tours: Each day has a theme, with choices that might include ethnic cuisines; pairing wines and foods; local and regional foods; the Texas Trilogy: barbecue, Tex-Mex, and steaks; and celebrity chefs. As noted above, the itinerary can incorporate visits to see food/wine production, specialty markets, tastings, seminars, cooking demos or classes, and meals with appropriate wines or other beverages.
And more: It’s easy to add in museum visits, shopping, spa treatments and live music as needed.

You can read more about Texas Toast plans and experiences on June’s blog at http://www.junenaylor.com, and you can follow updates on Facebook (Texas Toast Culinary Tours) and Twitter ( http://twitter.com/TexasToastTours) For press inquiries please contact Beth Hutson at 817-602-0211 or beth@hutsoncreative.com. For additional details on culinary tours, please view http://www.texastoastculinarytours.com contact 817-239-1634 or email texastoastculinarytours@yahoo.com.

About Texas Toast:
Partner June Naylor is an award-winning travel journalist, dining critic, and food writer with more than 20 years of experience. A Fort Worth native and a sixth-generation Texan who was was raised in Dallas and educated at Texas Christian University, June is a lifelong student of food, cooking and culture in Texas and the Southwest. A child of food-loving parents, June began creating things in the kitchen before she learned long division, and she’s taken cooking classes from Dallas to Bangkok. Over the years, she’s interviewed food celebrities such as Wolfgang Puck, Jacques Pepin, and John Besh, hosted a food-and-travel radio show and taken friends on food trips at home and abroad. June has written two cookbooks with Fort Worth cook and restaurateur Grady Spears and has another in the works with Austin/Fort Worth chef and restaurateur Louis Lambert. Texas Toast partner Cynthia Wahl comes to Texas by way of Wisconsin (born there) and Colorado (schooled there).  After spending 20 years as art director for several publications at the Fort Worth Star-Telegram, she decided to follow her epicurean passions. Although art and design have been her vocation, an adulation of Texas food and wine was raised to a higher level when she became friends with June Naylor pretty much the first day she worked at the paper. Through numerous girlfriend trips around Texas and the nation, the two have eaten like royalty while also taste-testing tequilas and emptying some nice bottles of wine. Cynthia is married to Jeff Cunningham, a native Texan, and has two teenage sons who eat an awful lot.

November 17 & 18
Cru A Wine Bar
Cru ~ A Wine Bar is proud to be hosting a wine dinner featuring Barolo wines paired with rare White Truffles from Oregon. Cru’s Truffle event is truly remarkable due to the rarity and high demand of the magnificent white truffle. Don’t miss this opportunity to enjoy the best in Italian Barolo wines and this exceptional culinary treat!
The famed white truffle is one of the world’s most prized delicacies. Once exclusive to Italy, the white truffles are grown predominantly in the soils of Piemonte’s Alba zone, home to the King of Italian wine, Barolo. Wine Aficionados claim that “Barolo is the Burgundy of Italy”, a wine of great perfume, body and size with the classic nose of “tar and roses”. Paired together, these noble wines and the “white diamond” of the earth, deliver the ultimate gastronomic experience.
Oregon is also blessed with an abundance of wild truffles with culinary qualities equal to those of Europe. Oregon has the perfect climate for cultivation of the renowned French truffles. Oregon Truffles Grow in the Willamette Valley Region of Oregon from November thru January. As the ultimate culinary delicacies, truffles are emblematic of the good life in every region where they grow.
Cru Corporate Chef Paul Singhapong has created a special five course menu that features items that highlight the delicate truffle flavors and complement the rich Barolo wines. Alfonso Cevola, CSW, will be on hand to present the Barolo wines and highlight the flavor pairings. Alfonso is a Certified Specialist in Wine and a Special Contributor to the Dallas Morning News and Sommelier Journal. He is an italian wine ambassador who translates the Italian experience
Barolo & White Truffles Wine Dinner Menu
Reception
White Truffle Pizza
fontina cheese, roasted chanterelle mushrooms, basil-walnut pesto & white truffle oil
Arneis, Pio Cesare, 2008
1st Course
Pepper-Seared Beef Carpaccio
roasted baby artichokes, fennel & arugula salad, black truffle aioli Shaved Black Truffles Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco “Torre”, 2005
2nd Course
Angolloti Fonduta
egg ravioli filled with fontina cheese, white truffle sage brown butter & balsamic syrup Shaved White Truffles
Barolo, “Lecinquevigne”, Damilano, 2004
3rd Course
Roasted Veal Loin
porcini thyme mushroom filling with braised granny smith truffle apples, barolo wine raisin demi Shaved White Truffles
Barolo, DOCG, Pio Cesare, 2005
4th Course
Gianduia Crème Brûlée
Brachetto d’Acqui, “Rosa Regale” Castello Banfi, 2008
The Barolo & White Truffles Wine Dinner will be held Tuesday, November 17th at Cru Shops at Legacy in Plano, and Wednesday, November 18th at Cru West Village in Dallas and Cru Watters Creek in Allen. Reception at 6:30pm and Dinner at 7pm.
The dinner is $69/person. Space is limited so please call Crú to reserve your seats today!
Crú ~ A Wine Bar
WEST VILLAGE – 3699 McKinney Ave., Dallas 214/526-9463
SHOPS AT LEGACY – 7201 Bishop Rd., Plano 972/312-9463
WATTERS CREEK – 842 Market St., Allen 972/908-2532
November 17
Tramontana’s Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Wine Dinner
Tuesday November 17, 2009
$50 per person
7:00 Reception
7:30 Dinner
Menu
Reception
Wild Mushroom Risotto Cakes- Truffle Aioli
Brie Cheese en Croute
JACUZZI PINOT NOIR 2006- CARNEROS
—–
Dinner
Housemade Chicken Raviolis with Sage Brown Butter- Chevre Salad
JACUZZI ROSSO DI SETTE FRATELLI MERLOT 2004- SONOMA
—–
Slow Roasted Porquetta with Sea Salt, Cracked Pepper & Herbs- Natural Jus
JACUZZI BARBERA 2007- MENDOCINO
—–
Hickory Grilled Bistecca Fiorentina – Crispy Onions
CLINE CELLARS BRIDGEHEAD ZINFANDEL 2006- CONTRA COSTA
—–
Dark Chocolate Mousse

November 19
Lawry’s The Prime Rib.
Potato wrapped jumbo prawn seared in Tabasco bacon pan sauce;
2009 Domaine de la Roche St. Martin Nouveau Beaujolais Rosé
•    Autumn salad tossed with dried apricots, sliced almonds, Maytag bleu cheese and dressed with a sweet maple vinaigrette;                                                                  2009 Domaine de Saint-Ennemond Nouveau Beaujolais
•    Horseradish crusted prime filet of beef with blue crab salad and asparagus noodles; 2009 Georges Duboeuf Nouveau Beaujolais
•    Pumpkin mascarpone filled vanilla bean crepes;
2007 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages

Who:    Lawry’s The Prime Rib has been serving Dallas, bringing excellent cuisine and personable service, for 26 years. Guests can enjoy featured dinner entrees such as Chilean Sea Bass, Rib Eye Steaks, Filet Mignon and, of course, the Roasted Prime Rib that made the restaurant famous – from the smaller California Cut to the larger Dallas Cut.

When:        Thursday, November 19, 2009
7 p.m.

Cost:     $69 per guest, plus tax and gratuity

Reservations:    Reservations are required by calling (972) 503-6688 or via email to SGiancotti@Lawrysonline.com with “Beaujolais” in the subject line.

Where:     Lawry’s The Prime Rib
14655 Dallas Parkway, Dallas, TX 75254
(Just south of Beltline)

Huge Fine for Holding a Sign? Coppell Official’s Harassment Causes Layoffs.

i Fratelli Pizza feels “chilling effect” through unprovoked vendetta

COPPELL, TX   Did a Coppell City official lean on a code enforcement officer to fine the manager of a locally owned i Fratelli Pizza $2,000.00 because there was a lone employee holding a sign in front of the store?

“Yes” says a disbelieving Mike Cole, owner, fifteen year Coppell resident and CEO of i Fratelli Pizza, a local family-owned business that has eleven locations in the Metroplex. “I have the citation here to prove it. I guess we have to spend time and money going to a criminal trial. It really is a shame…not just the hard costs, but the fact that a worthy young man had to be lain off due to a city official’s indiscretion. “

After numerous harassing phone calls and unannounced visits from the Deputy Chief Tim Oates, Officer Oates evidently summoned a code enforcement officer to levy the huge fine in order to, in Officer Oates’ words, “change the manager’s attitude”. The criminal trial is set for November 9, 2009.

George Cole, Mike Cole’s brother, an owner, and former Coppell resident declared “during twenty two years in business, eleven locations in eight cities, we have never been treated like this. While serving the citizens in Coppell for seventeen years, we have only had the utmost respect for the workings of the city. Something has changed, something seems out of line…it feels personal.”

Especially because the Cole Brothers contend that they cannot find anything on the City Website that declares “holding a sign” to be a crime.

Darrell Cole, another brother and owner, but a current Coppell resident is outraged. “This gentleman at the city works for taxpayer money (my taxes) but spends his time attacking a business that raises the taxes that employs him and employs many other citizens. Is it smart to pick on someone who supports the city causes, celebrations, charitable programs, and numerous school and church organizations? He says we are the criminals?”

David Cole of Irving, a brother and owner, questions “why would any city official of Coppell “slap down” a family-owned business that has fought through a severe economic downturn without laying anyone off (until now) by levying a huge fine for holding a sign. Did he get his training at the Kremlin?”

This morning, Russ Parsons of the Los Angeles Times has an interesting story: Apres Gourmet: Food magazines find their niches. Parsons interviews Robert Boynton, director of the literary reportage program at the Arthur L. Carter Journalism Institute at New York University. Boynton says:

“I think of Gourmet closing as part of the bigger story of the demise of the general interest magazine. It was the closest thing the food world had to a Life or Saturday Evening Post. But in publishing today, it has become easier and more profitable to disaggregate or divide up readership into small groups.”

Jump from the ledge with me, please.

Further down in the piece, Parson writes:

Boynton argues that if Gourmet had a major flaw, it was more likely trying to be it was more likely trying to be a department store in what has become a specialty-store publishing world. It tried too hard to be all things to all people. Recipes? Check. Long, writerly pieces by big-name bylines? Check. Short practical cooking pieces? Check. Travel, both high and low? Check and double-check…In a narrowcasting world, the magazine’s demise may have been caused by its inclusiveness.

According to her Twitter page (Lord, did I just type that?), former Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl agrees. She tweets (ouch, that really hurts): “Probably right; we were too ambitious.”

Hmm. Too ambitious? Targeted and tightly focused sells? Conde Nast just figured this out?  Methinks the “long, writerly pieces by big-name bylines” are expensive to produce and not selling. And that makes me sad.

Which brings me to blogs. Did you ever see the movie Rosemary’s Baby? Sometimes I feel like the editors at D Magazine went to sleep one night and a wretched creature snuck into the bedroom and impregnated me with SideDish. Don’t get me wrong, sometimes our little baby is cute, informative, funny, and helpful, but a lot of the time it is a living, breathing monster that must be fed raw meat around the clock by magazine writers, reporters, and outside sources. It can suck life out of the print product.

We do our best to review restaurants, take photographs and videos, relay up-to-the-second news, and have some fun. In return, we make a few friends, but mostly blogs have thrust–and I’m going to stay with dining here–food writers and reviewers into a mosh pit with readers and restaurateurs. Our photos are never good enough; reviews are not detailed or copy edited enough; publishing food events is considered shilling. It’s can be a real lose-lose job.

Which brings me to former newspaper-dining-critic-turned-blogger, Robb Walsh. He has decided toss in his cowboy hat and sunglasses and go public. He writes:

“The fact is, my job is changing. I was hired as a newspaper restaurant critic and feature writer. Today I am, first and foremost, a blogger. It’s a little ludicrous to try and maintain your anonymity while you are photographing your plate. And sometimes you need to identify yourself to get a interview. The time has come to adjust to fit my new job description.”

So adjusting to your new job description means that you feel it is important to be recognized? You can’t do a follow-up interview on the phone or by e-mail? Perhaps Walsh has a reality TV show in the works or just wants to have his photo published on the jackets of his books, but, Mr. Walsh, please don’t think you are gaining credibility by announcing yourself during a restaurant review. What service are you providing to your readers?

The thought of not wearing wigs, glasses, falsies, and other tricks of a restaurant reviewer’s trade, is very appealing to me. Trying to fly under the radar of chefs you’ve interviewed or traveled with for stories is hard. (Don’t cue any violins here.) I see Ruth Reichl flying around the world doing a foodie TV show and I am jealous. I watch former NY Times critic Frank Bruni talk about his eating disorder on the Daily Show and think “why in the hell am I still padding my bra so that Dean Fearing doesn’t recognize me?”

I do it because it is my job and I feel strongly that other restaurant critics—blog or print—who chose to review restaurants have to continue to try to be anonymous. Sure, you’re going to get busted a few times, but it usually doesn’t matter. And if it does, you report it, blog it, and Tweet it until you get your own TV show or your magazine or newspaper goes under.

“Tannis anyone?” Bon Appetit.

Surrounded by Dean Fearing, Kent Rathbun, and Sharon Hage, chef Charlie Palmer talks with Andrew Chalk about making Pinot Noir at his house. (Nice gig, eh?)

Scott Romano does a much better job of describing them in this video than I could. Excuse the poor technical quality – it was shot under battlefield conditions.

Last night celebrity chef Charlie Palmer was in town week to meet with his staff, chat with his public, and throw a little tasting party for area chefs. I spotted Dean Fearing, Kent Rathbun, Sharon Hage, and time love sampling appetizers at the bar long after the customers had cleared. Executive chef Scott Romano set out a spread that included peppered filet mignon with Armagnac sauce, pepper-seared mahi mahi, bacon-wrapped quail legs, shrimp mousse lobster corn dogs (lobster corn dogs?), and more. However, for me, the most exciting food was the large selection of charcuterie and salumi made in-house. Dishers, these samples were not contrived to please our local chefs, the food is currently on both the bar and restaurant menu.

DISCLAIMER: This event was provided by the restaurant and I was not anonymous. However, I personally took out a mortgage on my house to cover the valet parking charges.–Andrew Chalk

Was last night your first night in the kitchen? No, it’s really tonight. Last night I just debuted a couple of menu items, but tonight is my official first night. I’ve been here for a few days. Tonight I introduce six new dishes. I started to roll a few dishes out each day and have a full menu out later. Some of the dishes on the menu right now are very good, so I will work with them and try to make them more my way.

How did the job in Dallas happen? I was contacted by Gert Kopera (VP of Food and Bev for Rosewood) and Bob Boulogne (COO of Rosewood). He called me about the job. We know some of the same people. A few months ago, five or six months ago. I had been to Dallas once before, but of course, I knew about the Mansion. When you’re in the culinary business you know the Mansion. It’s a landmark in all of Texas.

You had a pretty great job in Vegas, too. It was interesting. I had five years there. Mix is the biggest operation for (Alain) Ducasse. 240 seats. It’s Vegas. I had 38 people working for me, including pastry, and this was only for dinner. We didn’t do lunch.

The challenge I faced there was the volume and the pace. With that many people, I couldn’t touch the tables or the people. There was frustration about that. When I got the phone call from Bob Boulogne I was excited to see what the Mansion had to offer.

I heard that schools in Dallas were very important to you. I am not going to say schools in Vegas were bad, but his school wasn’t that great. My wife was here this past weekend to look for a school. I want to be 15 minutes maximum drive. My son is going to be eight in December.

Were you looking for more of a community than you had before? Exactly. More like a real city. In Vegas, you have the strip and everyone lives around it. There are some nice neighborhoods but no city feel. I like the city feel here. I can see that people are loyal to the Mansion, and everyone is happy to see a new face in the kitchen.

Did you bring any menu items from Mix? I did a few from Mix but I tweaked them to use ingredients I can find here. I’m going to evolve on that when I get a feel for what people like. For me the Mansion isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an experience, from in-room dining to breakfast. My first goal is dinner, then lunch, then I wan to put my print on breakfast, lunch, and in-room dining. 15 years ago I worked at the Relais & Chateaux in France and it is about the same size and Mansion. When you order room service you should have the same experience, not the same as the restaurant, but a very good experience.

Will you keep the tortilla soup? I have no problem with that staying. It’s very popular for 20 plus years. When something works and is good and people like it…what I want is to fill up the restaurant. If the food is good and consistent, then people will come back to the Mansion. We want to bring them back.

Have you eaten anywhere in town yet? No not yet. I did a little tour with Duncan (Graham, Managing Director of the Mansion) but I haven’t eaten anywhere yet. I want to get in with other chefs in town. I met Dean Fearing and Stephan Pyles at the Los Angeles Food and Wine Festival, and they were very nice to me.

What was it like when you got your Michelin star at Mix? I got one in France too (ed note: oops). We weren’t expecting it. Mix is a fun place, it was L-shaped with an ultra lounge. It’s very open, the restaurant. The first four years we did around 100,000 covers a year. So to do this kind of volume and do it well, I guess we did a good job.

Were you much of a gambler? In five years, I think I put four quarters into a slot machine. I won’t miss it.

Click here to watch the VIDEO

Photo by Kevin Demaria.

Kevin Demaria, the former associate art director of Gourmet, captured the last days at the magazine with this photo essay. (Gourmet to Go?) It makes me want to kiss my keyboard. I still can’t believe Gourmet is gone. Food writing is in transition and it’s getting scary.

Recent reports and videos on the making of soba noodles omitted the most curious fixture at Tei-An. No, not the rooftop patio (at least, as yet), the doors to the bathroom stalls. You step into a cubicle that appears to have a glass panel in the door. So much for privacy! However, when you close the door, the glass panel turns opaque–at least, from the inside. I assumed (hoped) the effect was two way, and (thankfully) no crowd gathered outside. This is a talk-inspiring design feature for a restaurant

I first heard of this type of glass being used in the changing rooms at high-end clothing stores. Apparently, it is made with a Piezoelectric crystal formed on the sheet. I wonder what happens when the electricity fails?

Seared Day Boat scallop with cauliflower three ways.

Technically the fanfare will not begin until later this week, but we just couldn’t wait. We knew chef Bruno Davaillon was headed to the   kitchen at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek in early November and, given the silence, we figured he must be here testing new recipes. So we took our chances and headed over to the Mansion for dinner. Oh, yes he was there and so were some of  his new dishes such as seared Day Boat scallop with cauliflower three ways (puree, “salad,” and lightly roasted); king crab and butternut squash bisque with glazed chestnuts and crispy spring roll; bison tenderloin “au poivre” with autumn vegetables; roasted veal tournedos with crispy sweetbread, fig chutney, and chanterelle mushroom; Maine lobster salad with avocado, tomato confit, and caviar cream; and Mansion shrimp cocktail with horseradish panna cotta and spicy tomato syrup. We can only speak for the first two; actually, chef Davaillon was serving only the bisque tonight, but when we confessed we had come in for a advance taste, he offered the scallops as well.Jump for more of Davaillon’s creations.

The bisque was warm, hearty, and a just the right amount of decadent. The bowls were presented to us with soft cubes of butternut squash, glazed chestnuts, and three fat discs of king crab; the bisque was ceremoniously poured in, served with a crispy spring roll loaded with more crab and squash, this time julienned. The spring roll was a bit greasy and unnecessary, really, because the bisque held its own. Our second course, the Mansion salad with Maytag blue and spiced pecans, was big enough to split, as was the artichoke risotto, spruced up with hunks of ham and delicate fried artichoke crisps. (While the risotto is not one of Davaillon’s new dishes, we do hope he keeps it, because it is divine.)

The second of the new dishes, scallops with cauliflower three ways–puree, teeny bits of raw cauliflower “salad,” and a slight roast–was a new twist on an old favorite. Scallops, with a crisp crust from the sear, were enormous–a generous portion of three. But the star on this plate was the cauliflower puree, so rich with cream. If I could, I would have rolled around in it. I still might.

Just when we thought we’d had enough, the chef sent us two drinkable desserts (in lieu of coming out and saying hello, perhaps?): a passion fruit and mango blend with coconut foam. It was light and tropical–just enough to send us to the Caribbean for a spell. And it was just the sweet ending we didn’t even know we needed.

Welcome to Dallas, chef Davaillon. We look forward to trying more of your new dishes. Stay tuned, we’ll have an interview with the new Mansion chef soon.

The fact is, my job is changing. I was hired as a newspaper restaurant critic and feature writer. Today I am, first and foremost, a blogger. It’s a little ludicrous to try and maintain your anonymity while you are photographing your plate. And sometimes you need to identify yourself to get a interview. The time has come to adjust to fit my new job description.

Read all about it here.

Last week Andrew “Baby Face” Chalk attended the soba noodle making session held at Tei-An. The event was a big deal— Akila Inouye, Master Chef of Tsukiji Soba Academy in Tokyo, visited Tei-An restaurant at One Arts Plaza to give a demonstration of the technique of making soba noodles. Inouye’s brief U.S. tour only included New York, Los Angeles, and Dallas. Why Dallas? Tei-An owner Teiichi Sakurai is a student of the master. Here for your viewing enjoyment is Soba Noodles: The Movie.

I once ate a scallop from Nantucket.

I just received word from our friend Willy at Connolly Seafood in Boston that the season for Nantucket Bay scallops opened this morning and “the first dredge looks good.” This batch of sweet tender scallops (somebody get the fennel butter, quick) were pulled up this morning and are scheduled to arrive in Dallas before lunch on Wednesday. I am waiting for a list of the restaurants that will be serving them.

UPDATE: So far, you can expect to find Nantucket Bay scallops at Aurora, Oceanaire, Fearing’s, and Neighborhood Services.

UPDATE: Add Abacus, Del Frisco’s Dallas, and Stephan Pyles.

Winderlea Vineyard and Winery was created in 2006 by Donna Morris and Bill Sweat as an adventure, pursuit of passion and definitely second career.  The elegance and sensuality of Pinot Noir became their passion in the 1990’s as they worked successful financial careers in Boston, Massachusetts.  Traveling to France and enjoying some of the world’s best Burgundies was the foundation of their pursuit to start a new life making artisanal, craftsman style, small production wine in the part of the country most often equated to Burgundy. 

Their Dundee Hills vineyard is rich with Jory, volcanic red clay soil, which adds incredible depth and flavor to their Pinot Noir.  They are proud to be a sustainable vineyard which earned a LIVE (low input viticulture and enology) certification last year, and started the process to make the vineyard to be Biodynamic in 2009.  Their goal is to grow grapes and nurture vines with the environment always in mind.  The Oregon Governor and Oregon Wine Board gave the state’s wineries a challenge to become carbon neutral.  Winderlea is one of 13 in the state to commit to the challenge.  Donna and Bill believe that excellent wine comes from superb vines  Their efforts for the environment ensures their vineyard will successfully produce quality grapes year after year.

The tasting room is beautiful and surprising.  Completely modern, contemporary and filled with sunlight, it is essentially a glass block with clean lines, omitting the fuss and fluff that tasting rooms often have.  The space was designed by Ernest Munch (who also designed another favorite Oregon winery – Domaine Drouhin) to be sustainable with the use of solar panels to provide the building’s electricity.  The concrete floor created from recycled materials can store heat and energy absorbed from the day’s sunlight to keep the space comfortable throughout the year.  The idea is to enjoy the beautiful surroundings of the Dundee Hills; the sustainable effects are the bonus. 

The wine displays Donna and Bill’s desire to create intense, elegant, age-worthy Pinot Noir reminiscent of some of their favorites, skillfully utilizing the Oregon soil, climate and growing conditions to emphasize the earthy, mineral rich qualities found in the region. 

Winderlea 2007 Chardonnay is reminiscent of a classic Chablis, matching mineral complexity with balanced acidity.  87% was barrel fermented, 13% fermented in stainless steal and then blended and aged in French oak for 10 months. The use of the barrel in this clean, crisp wine adds finesse.  The flavor is intense green apple, peach, apricot with slight tropical fruit, followed by creamy vanilla.

Winderlea 2007 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir is a blend of the estate vineyard’s best  including select Dijon clones and Pommard.  The juice is allowed to remain on the grape skins for 8-10 days after initial fermentation and then aged for 9 months in select French barrels.  The wine is deep garnet red in color with hearty cherry, berry and herbal notes.

Winderlea Ana Pinot Noir blends Pommard with Dijon 777 clones to create an earthy, luxurious wine filled with strawberry, raspberry, earthy  floral notes.  Easy drinking, this was lovely to enjoy on their patio overlooking the vines.   

Men are invited too.  This year’s event includes a new Men’s Lounge, featuring a scotch tasting, cigar rolling and shoe shines.  More info available here.

Our organization Friendship Force of Dallas is going on an exchange trip to Turkey next year.  We are looking for a Turkish restaurant that can accommodate a group of 50-60 people for a meeting next July.  Can you provide me with a list of restaurants in the Dallas area that have a Turkish ethnic atmosphere and food?  I appreciate any assistance you can provide.

Hit it and get it.

Make pasta not war.

Earlier in the week, I introduced you to Susan Marx and the Foodie in a Warzone blog she writes from her kitchen in Kabul, Afghanistan. Today she sends you a message:

I just saw your lovely post and link to my new blog on the Dallas Food and Wine blog and wanted to thank you very much for the support!  This is something that is quite close to our hearts, and in light of the recent attacks in Kabul, something we do for sanity as well – your support is much appreciated. Warm regards,Susan.

Dishers, I say we add her to the blogroll on the right. Perhaps with a little support from us, Susan can find a little peace. And we can get some great recipes! What do you say?

The texture is perfect–the right balance of crumbly and moist. And here’s a revelation–it actually tastes like peanut butter, as opposed to some overly sweet sugar-dusted, dried-out hunk of cardboard. The verdict: “The best peanut butter cookie I’ve ever eaten,” declared one Web-ette. I concur. Later I will report how well they freeze, because that’s where they’re going–straight to my freezer to pull out on another rainy day.

ChefBlytheBeck how you feel about it not being on this week. The naughty Army on Facebook is pissed!! How do the twitter peeps feel??10:42 PM Oct 27th from web
ChefBlytheBeck The Naughty Kitchen will be back next week with a whole new episode but I think that the Naughty Army should go to Oxygen.com and tell them10:41 PM Oct 27th from web
DSideDish Nancy…the show took a break last night and will be back with an all new episode next week. It has something to do with sweeps week. about 16 hours ago
DSideDish Yes Nancy I knew it was taking a break. Oxygen had told me a while ago!! Thanks for checking though! I appreciate it!! about 13 hours ago.

I’ve gotta go with Faries on this. That stuff is nasty. It tastes like wax-coated “sugar.” But if Dave Faries would ever talk to me, I’d like to ask him why he insists on doing these silly wine and “food” pairings. Why would you pair a wine with candy corn or Frito’s or other random junk food? I’m just curious.

However, Mr. Faries inspired me to explore the Internet and search for my identity. Here are the results.

According to this website, I am a Snickers Bar.

“You’re a nut. Like a Snickers bar. You like to be around people and you are friendly. You are a constant smile. Some people consider you overly energetic but if you stopped being so cheery, everyone would miss the real you.”

According to this website, I am a Sauvignon Blanc.

Engaging and energetic, you have a lot to offer the world – most of it they’ve never seen anywhere else! You are the type of person who carves your own path in life… and you invite everyone else to come along. The only thing predictable about you is that you could have anything up your sleeve. You’re all about sampling all of life’s experiences. Both the savory and unsavory ones.
Deep down you are: Laid back and young at heart
Your partying style: Anything goes… seriously!
Your company is enjoyed best with: Smoked meats or spicy food.

So, there you have me. What about you? La Brenner and Mr. Faries, I think it only fair you weigh in here. And Teegster, spit that candy corn out of your mouth and play. Anything goes!

This is a picture of:
a)    A new building in the Arts District
b)    A modern sculpture
c)    A new $64 chocolate truffle from Noka
d)    Something caramelized
e)    All of the above
f)    None of the above
g)    Whatever I want it to be

Go for it. I’ll post another clue a little later in the day.

UPDATE: 3:09 p.m. Clue number 2.

UPDATE: DGirl takes the prize. Oh, we didn’t offer one! Whoopsie. Here’s Andrew:

It is indeed a cheese. Gjetost from Norway, also known as Brunost, is a semi-hard cheese made from cow and goat’s milk to which caramelization during boiling of the milk contributes an unforgettable brown color. The caramel is also evident in the taste which is nutty and creamy. It is usually cut with a cheese slicer in order to create thin strips as the taste is quite intense and the finish long-lived. I bought it for $15.90/lb at The Wooden Spoon in Plano. A store for all things Scandinavian except, on my last visit, the famous fetid shark. I settled for herring.