Sammy Bag by JanetMoilanen via Flickr

Then we have Jessica’s pink and blue bicycle Two Zip Hipsters!

Two-Zip Hipsters #1 & 2 by jmdiettrich via Flickr

This little guy by Susan is adorable, using a modified version of the Circle Zip Earbud Pouch.

by Sirelroka via Flickr

Does anyone else wish they had a bench like this to take pictures on? This Two Zip Hipster by Heidi is awesome. Love the fabric.

Tsuru Two Zip Hipster by fabricmutt via Flickr

I love these wristlets by Krystal!

The essential wristlet (L) by phantom0919 on Flickr

the essential wristlet by phantom0919 on Flickr

This Mini Daytripper is awesome in this fabric from smallfields411 on Flickr!

Mini Daytripper – Front by smallfields411 via Flickr

Check out how Beth Strand took my pieced Police Box tutorial and turned it into a Tardis Mug Rug. I want that Tardis mug too!

Tardis Mug Rug by Beth Strand

Then there is all sorts of fun over on the Facebook page! Rene from Sew Much Cuteness made the hipster on the left and one by The Practical Mom Shop is on the right!

And then Daytrippers by Kathie on the left and Jessica on the right!

I wish I could add everyone’s but this post would be a mile long! Go ahead and add yours in the comments or wherever so I can have some to post for May. :D

<– Did you see that I added a blog subscription over there? (Also here.)

I’m terrible about sending newsletters and I tend to send them only when I have a new pattern. This way you can get blog post updates via email and know about sales and new tutorials without waiting for me to trudge through writing a newsletter. Yay! So sign up for the newsletter if you want me to bug you occasionally and sign up for the blog subscription if you want every post delivered via email.

I also think it’s time for a sale! As you well know, I rarely do this. My patterns are priced to compete with other PDF patterns, in the $6-12 range, even though my patterns have super detailed instructions with dozens to hundreds of photos, depending on the pattern. The six-plus weeks I put into prototyping, creating computer generated pattern pieces, pattern testing, photographing and writing instructions are a bargain at $10-12, especially considering you also have me to answer your questions you email/tweet/FB me along with all of my free tutorials. So, promotions and discounts are rare. But, I need your help because I need some motivation right now. I went out of town for a family wedding and my whole life got turned upside down – packing, unpacking, sleep schedule getting even more off than usual, airports messing up my still-healing arches… and then my new Bernina 750 had a whole list of issues that needed to be fixed and 2+ weeks later it is still at Bernina. I got my old machine out and set it up, and the instructions for the backpack pattern are already mostly written but I need to sew one to take all the photos and then do the layout of the pattern and get it to testers.

So, I’m having a 20% off sale through midnight (CDT) Wednesday, May 1st, *but* the catch is that I need you to prod me along a little bit with this backpack pattern because my brain is bursting with fun new ideas that I can’t make that until this pattern is done. So go get whichever pattern you don’t have yet, and then leave me a comment? Happy, motivating comment emails (or funny, threatening ones) will help me along. I think the warmer weather will help too!

Click here for the PDF PATTERN SHOP 

Star Wars Backpack (Fabric by Camelot) – Pattern coming soon!

 

And they did! I am a little bit in love with Soft and Stable. You could do the same thing with batting and interfacing but the foam is soooo nice.

“Turtles are EPIC” laptop sleeve. Smaller pouch is made with my no-raw-edge tutorial here. I didn’t have a longer zipper, so I ended up putting the zipper on the short end. Which works out well because we both have the same Vera Bradley backpack (LOVE IT!) and it makes it so easy to get the laptop in and out of the sleeve without taking the entire sleeve out of the bag.

  

  

Two new bags was out of the question, but my smaller bag worked as a carry-on for Southwest. (Do they even check? American Airlines put every bag in the sizer and took most of them away, Southwest let people take giant bags on without a second glance.) So I made luggage handle wraps! Michelle wrote a tutorial for these back in November. She repurposed her luggage handle wraps to make cord wraps, but the instructions are the same. Go check out her post for instructions! I cut mine to about 5″ x 6″ for the big handles on this bag. They only use scraps, so just measure your handles and wing it! :)

     

Now I need to make some bigger ones to go around the cords of my flat iron and curling iron!

I started with a yard and a half of “micro-fleece”. This stuff is kind of half way between polar fleece and minky softness-wise, and it’s super thin which is what I was going for. And 1.5 yards at 50% off was only $10.50, so about the same price as the cheapest travel blankets that I found and way cuter and softer!

Sweatshirt fleece would work too or any other fleecy fabric or even a thicker knit fabric. Keep in mind we’ll be hemming this so that it remains a single layer, so just make sure it’s nice on both sides.

1.5 yards of 60″ wide fabric is approximately 54″ x 60″ so it will end up about 52″ x 58″ finished. Perfect for travel size! Try to square up (not easy with fleece, and it doesn’t need to be perfect) and trim off the selvedges.

Once you’ve got it trimmed, fold it in half and half again, so it’s a big 30″ x 27″ rectangle (sorry this is too big to show). Then fold it in thirds towards the middle. (Or fold it however you’d like, but you’ll need to fold it that way each time!)

Roll the blanket up starting with the end with all folded edges.

Take your elastic and measure around the rolled up blanket, then mark the middle of the outside layer with a pin or chalk. This is where you’ll attach the elastic later.

 Wrap the elastic around as tight as you want it to be when you’re all done. Add 2″ for seam allowance.

Trim  a 3″ triangle off the corners off the corners to make it easier to fold without so much bulk.

Fold all the edges 1″ to the wrong side, then fold 1″ again to enclose the raw edge. Pin or clip this in place.

(I don’t actually fold the whole thing at once, I fold a section at a time right before it goes through the machine. Otherwise I get stuck by pins!)

Sew all the way around with a decorative stitch, wide zig zag or long straight stitch. I sew this with the folded side up. (A walking foot helps but you can manage without it, just go slowly.) Start with the mark for the elastic, looping it and sliding both raw edges under the hem.

I used a wide, long triple zig zag stitch.

 Now try to remember how you rolled it up the first time! :)

I recently made my mom some travel pillowcases. She likes to take two pillowcases so she can replace the one with icky plane germs as soon as she gets to her destination. Smart mom. :) Even if you don’t plan to sleep, it’s nice to stuff a pillow between you and the uncomfortable arm rest, especially in a window seat.

Did you know that pillows don’t count against your carry on allowance? True! A pillow or blanket are typically allowed in addition to a carry on. :P But who wants to carry a pillow around the airport? So why not a pillowcase with a strap to go over your rolling luggage handle?

You will need:
A 12″ x 16″ travel pillow insert (or make one!)
1/3 yard of 42″ wide fabric (I used a kid’s twill print from JoAnn)
1″ wide elastic – optional

Cut fabric 13.25″ tall by 42″ wide
Cut elastic 13.25″ long (not stretched)

Hem BOTH short ends. Press 3/8″ to the wrong side, then fold over another 3/8″ to enclose the raw edge.

Edge stitch the hems.

Fold one end over 16″.

Fold the other end right up to the end underneath and back over towards the center. So the whole pillowcase should be 16″ wide.

Lay the elastic over the folded part and towards the middle. Pin everything.

Sew the raw edges with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances to 1/8″

Turn wrong side out, poke out the corners and press. Sew with a 3/8″ Seam allowance.

Now turn it right side out again and press lightly. All the raw edges should now be enclosed. The elastic strap should be on the back/flap side.

 

 

You could also cut this a bit bigger and stuff a blanket in there too! I won’t tell. :P

  

Add a passport pocket

Maybe it’s just me, but when I travel I like to keep my passport on me. Leaving it in a hotel room isn’t the best idea and if you need ID while you are out for the day, a foreign driver’s license may get funny looks (so will a passport, but you get what I mean.) You could always tuck a Zip and Go into a larger tote bag if you’re carrying one, but then grab it when you just run down to the nearest Starbucks.

I can’t be the only one who does that… 

You need a main fabric and lining piece 5″ wide x 6″ tall + a 5″ x 6″ piece of fusible interfacing.
I also like to add a 1″ tall strip of interfacing to the top of the lining piece.

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabrics.

Place the main fabric and lining right sides together, then sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance,
leaving a gap on the bottom of the pocket for turning.

Clip corners.

Turn the pocket right sides out, gently poke out the corners, turn under the opening, press well, and topstitch across the top (the one without the opening) 1/4″ away from the edge.
I use a longer stitch length (3.5-4) when I topstitch.

Now place the pocket (topstitched end up) on top of the lining of your bag and edge stitch around the sides and bottom, reinforcing the top corners. (I did this right before Step 9 for the Zip and Go,
and placed it 1.5″ from the bottom of the lining fabric.)

Add a passport to your pocket (once the bag is assembled, obviously :P)

Perfect size!

As we learned with the wristlet, iPhones and passports are similar sizes. :)

iPhone 5 in passport pocket

Add a passport pocket to any bag!

I never know what to say for these posts, so I’m just going to tell you the story behind this bag. I only took two purses on my last trip, a Daytripper and a Two Zip Hipster and both were perfect for just about everything we did. Trips to the city with lots of walking around? Hipster. Trip to the zoo where I “needed” 3 cameras? Daytripper. And of course we kept finding souvenir shops but nothing screamed my name. Several gift shops later and we came across a touristy little bag with front zippers. Of course, the one souvenir I buy would be a purse, right? And it turned out to be a good decision because we went to the beach the next day and I needed something much smaller than my two bags!

The pros: It was just the right size to take everyone’s room key card, cash and my phone when we walked from our hotel to the beach. (Not that my phone worked there at all, but camera! I don’t think the Aussies believe in the universal right to free wifi like we do here. :P) The cons: It was so tiny that room key cards and an iPhone were *all* that would fit, the strap fell apart after using it once, and of course the raw edges and binding. You all know that I have nightmares about unnecessary raw edges and unfinished linings!

I swear sometimes she can read my mind, because my friend was like, “Calm down, you can totally make a bag like that, but in a way that doesn’t make you cringe.” Because I was totally cringing. So as soon as I got home I started with a much larger bag in mind, with a nice long adjustable fabric strap and a fully finished lining. I wasn’t really intending to make it into a pattern. It was so simple, and it was more to just prove to myself that I could do so much better. (Figuring out the best way to make the front pocket with the least amount of bulk was fun! I know, I have issues.) But then I posted this picture and dozens of you were like “I NEED THAT WHY DOESN’T THAT EXIST?”

So, here we go. Appropriately named by another friend, the Zip and Go is ready for your hands free shopping trips, sporting events, theme park visits and vacation adventures. I think you’ll love them because they are FAST! Oh, and that fussy cut across the zippers? That’s built into the pattern design, so they will all turn out like that! Here’s the info from the product page:

This might be one of the most stress-free bags you’ll ever sew. It’s simple to make, it’s simple to cut out, it’s FAST and it doesn’t use up a ton of your precious fabric. The lining is completely hidden, so use a bright coordinating solid to save money! I wanted a super fast alternative to the Two Zip Hipster and Daytripper. While neither of them is particularly difficult, they are a bit too complex to be appropriate for that gift you needed yesterday. Making a dozen of these for your Etsy shop won’t break the bank or be a total time suck. I LOVE that. And so will you.

I’ve been using mine for grocery shopping, because it’s hands free and I don’t need to keep track of my purse in the cart. It’s a little bigger than the Essential Wristlet, and will hold your phone, keys and wallet. It’s also perfect for travelling and will keep your passport safe and on you at all times. My basic Kindle (no case) fits in the front pocket, and an iPad mini fits in the main pocket. Since it’s all rectangles, you could easily add inches to make the bag wider or longer as needed.

Instructions are included for strap widths from 1/4″ to 1″, so you don’t need to track down specific sized hardware. Add a fixed strap or a removable strap, which is nice for when you want to tuck the purse into a larger tote and not deal with the strap getting tangled. Make it adjustable for gifts or not, if it’s just for you!

There are no raw edges. You will turn it through an opening in the lining just like any other purse.

Perfect for teens and younger girls, too!

Approximately 9.5″ tall and 7.5″ wide with a 30″ to 55″ adjustable strap.

For the Zip and Go, you need one of these options:

   

My favorite sizes for the Zip and Go are 5/8″ and 3/4″ (inside width) hardware. You could go as narrow as 1/4″ or as wide as 1″, and you could even skip the adjustable slider or use small O-rings instead of rectangle rings. Whatever combination you end up using, just make sure all the pieces will accomodate the same size strap.

These are my favorite 5/8″ lobster clasp sets from Tantalizing Stitches on Etsy. These are also my top pick for the Essential Wristlet.

Essential Wristlet – Perfect Corners!

I’ve found 5/8″ sliders here from Sewing Supplies on Etsy. And also here which includes the rectangle rings. Searching the supply category on Etsy for the width of the hardware that you want will get you some decent results.

Here is a 1″ set from Being Bags on Etsy, but keep in mind you need TWO rectangle rings per slider, not one. Usually you can contact the hardware vendors and they will set up a custom listing for you.

Australia friends, you have this lovely purse supply vendor as well, HandbagHardwareOz on Etsy.

I also know some of you have luck thrifting hardware from old bags. I always cut the hardware off of anything I throw away. Old, worn out duffel bags, old purses, anything like that. Save that hardware!

Daytripper and Two Zip Hipster

For the larger cross body bags like the Two Zip Hipster and the Daytripper, I prefer a 1.5″ strap width. These are my favorite 1.5″ rectangle rings and sliders set from Tantalizing Stitches.

And we can’t forget a shout out for the best zipper source on the internet, zipit zippers on Etsy! I’m pretty sure code: dogundermydesk still gets you a discount, too! :P I like the 1″ wide standard zippers for the Zip and Go and the Essential Wristlet, and the wider, long pull purse zips for the Daytripper and Two Zip Hipster!

It’s mesh fabric! So it’s see-through! I found it in the utility fabric section at JoAnn’s. I was curious how it would attach to a zipper, but it worked just fine!

I bought a yard since it was so cheap, which is more than enough to make 2-3 bags. Make these any size you want, the only limitation is the width of your zipper. 14″ zips are pretty standard, so I will use that size. This stuff seems to be stretchy in both directions so I don’t think it matters which way you cut it.

I started with a 12″ wide by 20″ tall piece of fabric. Then I cut two 1.5″ wide strips from quilt cotton about 12″ tall. You’ll cut off the extra length at the end.

Fold about 3/8″ of one end on each piece to the wrong side.

Fold in fourths, like straps, raw edges to the center. (If you use pre-made, get the 1/2″ wide stuff. Not sure how that will wash up, though. I pre-wash all of my fabric so I don’t usually have a problem.)

Place the zipper along the short (12″ side), face down on top of the mesh fabric. (That means the zipper teeth and zipper pull are right sides together with the mesh. Yes, I know there is no right side/wrong side for the mesh. The zipper teeth are TOUCHING the mesh.) Let both ends of the zipper hang over the ends of the fabric about an inch so you don’t need to worry about zipper pulls or metal bits yet. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the fabric.

Use your zipper foot to sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Use a short stitch length (2-2.5) to make sure you catch mesh fabric. SEW WITH THE ZIPPER ON TOP. The zipper will be upside down, but it’s OK. If you sew with the mesh on top, the presser foot would stretch it out. With the mesh on the bottom, the feed dogs will pull it through more evenly.

If you are having trouble with the mesh slipping or with the edges not staying aligned, let it stick out a tiny bit from under the zipper so you can keep an eye on it.

Go back and make a second stitch line between the first 1/4″ stitch line and the edge. Since the mesh fabric is mostly holes, this helps make sure you’ve got it secured. (Enlarge this pic if you’re confused.)

Fold back the zipper and topstitch. I turned my iron down a setting and pressed it lightly.

Fold the mesh fabric up so that it meets the edge of the zipper tape on the top/right side of the zipper.

Flip it over and sew like the first side – zipper upside down but on top, mesh fabric on the bottom, sew two stitch lines.

UNZIP, fold back the zipper, press and topstitch the other half on the fabric side.

Zip the bag and make sure it’s turned right side out. Fold the zipper down to about 1.5″ from the top. Press lightly and use either binder clips or quilt clips to hold it in place. (Pins won’t work ;)

*Unzip part way* and tack the open end of the zipper (use a wide zigzag stitch).

Then trim the zipper even with the sides of the mesh fabric. DO NOT CUT OFF THE ZIPPER PULL.

Flip the bag over so the back side is face up. Start at the top with the folded short edge of the fabric strip. Unfold the long edge of the fabric strip so you can place it right sides together with the mesh fabric, aligning the raw edges. Cut off the excess fabric at the bottom of the strip, leaving 3/8″ to fold up and press.

Stitch right in the fold, 3/8″ from the edge, backstitching at the top and bottom.

Fold the fabric strip towards the outside of the bag and press lightly and carefully so that you don’t press out the creases.

Flip over so the front of the bag is face up.

Now fold the outside raw edge back to the center and press.

Fold again so all the raw edges are tucked into the center and enclosed. Press.

Edgestitch on the front side of the bag.

An edgestitch foot helps! Try to catch the fabric on the underside to reinforce the stitch through the mesh.

Doesn’t that look nice?

Now repeat with the fabric strip on the other side!

I filled mine with $1 Target fun socks! :D I LOVE using these in my suitcase to stay organized. One for socks, one for underwear, one for bras. I like how the fabric strips help keep them relatively flat.

When you aren’t travelling, use them for tights that you don’t want to get snagged in your dresser or maybe WIP’s you want to keep together, instead of using ziplocks.

Finished size is about 10″ x 12″. Make them as big or small as you’d like!