We started our normal trail route at the exit of Mthimkulu Reserve, right next to Kruger National Park. The effects of the January flood on the Klein Letaba River were immediately obvious.. All the reeds that were growing in the river had been washed away and the Klein Letaba River does not seem to be so Klein/small any longer. It had opened up into a wide river with beautiful white sand banks in places. There are also still sections of the river with a lot of water. Previously you would only find a few small pools with water in the riverbed. We came across a nice big herd of buffalo resting in the shade, right next to the trail.

We arrived at our normal point to cross over the Klein Letaba River, intending to cross and then to continue along the Kruger boundary further up north, direction Punda Maria. However, very soon it became clear that we were not going to be able to cross the river. What in the past used to be a little two meter wide stream was now a 30 metre stream with very soft sand below which would make the crossing extremely difficult. Furthermore the flooding water had carved out a 1.8 metre wall on the opposite of the river where we usually used to exit. It is unlikely that the water level will be down sufficiently before the end of June, after which we will re-assess the possibility of a crossing. washed away and the Klein Letaba River does not seem to be so Klein/small any longer. It had opened up into a wide river with beautiful white sand banks in places. There are also still sections of the river with a lot of water. Previously you would only find a few small pools with water in the riverbed. We came across a nice big herd of buffalo resting in the shade, right next to the trail.

Not being able to cross the river we had no choice but to return to the main road and cross at the bridge on the road to Hlomela village. This is luckily a short detour and it’s easy to get back onto our trail track next to Kruger. The road up along the Kruger is still in a fairly good condition. We used this opportunity to cut away and open up the road from branches of trees that have grown into the road. This was a big job and those Sickle bushes have nasty thorns. We proceeded some way before the day was running out of light and we had to find a camping spot. It was a lovely evening, with a bit of coolness in the air. A sign that winter is approaching.

On day two we continued with operation ‘Tree trimming’. Zebra wood trees were now making us work and testing our cuttings shears to the maximum. By 11am we reached the point where we turn away from Kruger and the road follows some tracks through a few rural villages. We were relieved as most of us by now had a number nasty scratches form the battles with the Sickle bushes, Zebrawood trees and also a number of Knobthorn trees. It’s great knowing that we can now take our clients through this section of the trail, minimising the chance of them ending up with scratches on their vehicles.

We made our way up north to the Makuya Park Reserve. Crossing the Shingwedzi River, it was hard to believe the extent of the damage this silent giant caused in the Kruger Park and to Shingwedzi camp. But the worst part of the flooding in that area of Kruger originated in the Kruger itself with the dam wall of the Sirheni dam breaking, downstream from where we were crossing.

Just outside Mhinga we crossed the Luvuvhu River for the first and immediately it was clear that this mostly gentle and calm river also had a mass of water coming down it during the January flood. Two or three smaller streams that you cross on the way to the Makuya gate showed evidence of severe flooding. In some places it was “Wow … are we still on the correct track?” as we surveyed the changes Mother Nature has given us.

After ‘n lekker lunch at the Makuya gate we entered the Reserve and as usual she never disappoints. Those big old trees are all still mostly lush green. It is just the Syringa’s that have started to put on their autumn coat, a range of yellow and brown colours. And then soon you start seeing those giants of the area, the massive Boabab’s.

The road down to our campsite was not affected too much by the rainwater, except for the last two to three kilometres as you start your decent down to the campsite on the banks of the Luvuvhu River. Slow, however, does it. Arriving at our campsite, Lambwe, it was clear that the entire place was flooded. The result is that it is now covered in green grass. But that is nothing compared to new fresh look of the Lambwe River. It’s very difficult to believe it is the same place. What used to be a small one metre wide, almost unnoticed stream has been turned into a proper river, and even now in autumn is still flowing strongly. There was no evidence left of our old crossing point; all that is left is an almost two metre high embankment. How and where we were going to cross was luckily the next day’s worry.

After a slow and lazy start to the day we were ready to face the new crossing Mother Nature left us after the floods. The first two vehicles managed relatively easily while the sand on the exiting sandbank was still firm. Then the trouble started and it became clear that we were going to have to bend our backs to build a crossing that is easier and safer. It required a lot of working down the sandbanks and removing and packing rocks. We left happy that we have left a crossing which will be a little easier to cross for most vehicles. The drivers of vehicles that are towing will, however, have to start making friend with their co-trailists from day one as they are going to need all the help they can get. Make sure those winches are in good working condition.

As we proceeded on the trail we came across a number of gullies where the road had been damaged but those have now all been fixed or a new road been put in place. Again we spent a lot of time cutting away those nasty branches of trees that were hanging into the road. Our lunch stop was in the shade of some huge trees next to the river. Shortly after lunch we stopped at Masunda Cliff. Here the masses of water did a great job. It has left a big sandbank on the Makuya side of the river and created a big pool directly below the cliff. A Hippo family have since moved into the pool and it was amazing to watch the hippos from the safety of the large sandbank between us.

Just before getting to the Masunda river crossing we stopped and walked a short distance to a new jewel on this trail. It is the confluence of the Masunda and Luvuvhu Rivers. What an amazing spot. The view is dominated by large white sandbanks, two flowing rivers and massive Boabab trees on the opposite side of the river, in Kruger Park. Wish we could spend more time here but we still had some way to go for the day, or so we thought. Not much further on, we crossed the Masunda River. Previously this was a hardly noticed little stream but as was now becoming the norm, the flooding waters turned this into a wide spectacular river with some stunning cliffs. This is the first time that I have seen water here. After building a new exit ramp we were on our way again.

Having started late, spending a lot of time at the Lambwe river crossing and along the way to fix the road, it was clear we were not going to reach our normal campsite. We started looking for a spot suitable for a campsite, and nobody could have predicted what we were about to discover. The perfect spot, with massive Jackalberry trees, a protective rock face behind you and the beautiful Luvuvhu river in front of you. And to welcome us to this piece of Eden, a large bull elephant. The perfect camping spot in the heart of the Makuya Reserve.

While sitting around our campfire, discussing the excitement of the past day and our newly discover gem of a campsite, we heard some branches breaking very close by. On investigation we found that our elephant friend had come back to listen to our conversations and was a mere ten metres out of the campsite. We heard some more elephants down by the river but eventually it became quite and you were left with only the sound of the water in the river flowing past.

Day four we continued as we slowly made our way to Singo Safari Camp. The rains have made the trail track a little more demanding than before but slow going does the trick. Lunch was just before Singo in the shade of a big Nyala tree. We spotted Nyala, Baboons and Impala along the way. We stopped at Singo Camp for a short while just to enjoy the stunning views and to see how the flooding Luvuvhu River engraved its new flow on Mother Earth, far below. A big herd of Kudu completed the picture.

We then continued to World View viewpoint, but this time on a less travelled track. This option is only for the serious 4×4 enthusiasts. Before we could descend down, what can only be described as “the rocky road” we spend about an hour to get rocks into all the holes. Notwithstanding our sweat and more sweat, it remains a serious, but good fun, challenge. And as it always goes, if you go down you at some point have to go up again. This very steep section of road is only to be attempted by experienced 4×4 drivers with capable vehicles.

The last stop for the day was at the unbelievable beautiful Worlds View. All the big trees that had grown on the sand banks, left by the 2000 flood, have been washed away. You now have this massive white sandy beach directly below you. You have to see it for yourself to appreciate how beautiful it is. From here it was short drive to our campsite. Again we had some elephant passing our campsite and also heard some Hyena calling some distance away.

On day five we continued on the trail, making our way to African Ivory Route’s Mutale Falls camp. As was expected there was a lot of work to be done on this section as it was not used since the floods. A section of the road was totally washed away and a new road had to be opened. We eventually reached the breath-taking Luvuvhu Gorge and spotting a pair of Verreaux’s Eagles made this already special spot so much more of a highlight on the trail.

We reached Mutale Falls camp at about 15h00 and immediately went down to find a place to cross the Mutale River. This relatively small river has also grown into a big river with two rather strong flowing streams. The sand on the opposite side of the river, which used to make exiting easier, has all been washed away, only leaving big rocks. We explored and discussed, and considered options and discussed more and some more. Eventually it was decided not to attempt a crossing because the possibility of ending up with a vehicle struck in the middle of the Mutale River was just too big. Not being able to cross and to continue to our campsite near KNP Pafuri gate, we decided to spend the night at Mutale Falls camp. What a treat to spend the last night in such a lovely camp, high above the Mutale River. With the viewing deck facing directly west into the setting sun we were spoilt by the most amazing view of a herd of elephants crossing the river in the last bit of remaining daylight.

Not being able to cross the Mutale River, we had to drive to the main gate of the Makuya Reserve to exit the park and end a wonderful trail. All the hard work – building roads, packing heavy stones and battling thorny branches – forgotten. While so much has changed, what remains is a magnificent piece of Africa, waiting to welcome us again. Who’s joining me on the next trip? Click here to contact me.

 “Ons het die 4×4 roete terdee geniet. Die 336.3 km het ons op ons tone of eerder op ons wiele gehou. Hennie se kennis van die veld, omgewing en dieregedrag was hoog op prys gestel. Ons is gewoond om alleen die bos aan te durf en dit was n verandering om in n groep te ry, maar ons keer baie tevrede huistoe met goeie herrinneringe. Baie dankie”

We really enjoyed the 4×4 route. The 336.3 kms really kept us on our toes, or rather our wheels. Hennie’s knowledge of the veld, the environment and animals was greatly appreciated. We are used to going into the bush alone, and it was different driving with a group, but we are going home very satisfied, and with good memories. Thank you very much. 

Albert & Martie Van Niekerk  - Gauteng 

“In ons wildste drome kon ons nie die grootheid van die natuur tonele droom nie. Dit was absoluut asemrowend. Gelei deur n gids wat n passie het, nie net vir die natuur nie, maar ook vir die omgwing waardeur ons gereis het. Ons het as vreemdelinge in n kring gestaan in Phalaborwa, ons het as n familie op die oewer van die Levuvhu rivier gekamp. Dankie aan almal wat bygedra het tot die sukses van die ervaring”

In our wildest dreams we did not image the enormity of this natural spectacular. It was absolutely breathtaking.  It was lead by a guide with passion – not just for nature, but also the environment through which we travelled. We were strangers who met in a circle at Phalaborwa, and camped on the banks of the Luvuvhu as a family. Thank you to everyone who contributed to the success of the experience.

Johan & Elsie Havenga – Heidelberg 

 “It was a memorable and exciting experience. A true 4×4 experience with challenging roads and changing environment. Hennie our guide was very friendly and enthusiastic at all times. Far from Cape Town but worth the effort to get there”

Derek Esterhuizen – Cape Town. 

 “This trail will remain etched in my memory for years. Our guide Hennie’s knowledge of fauna and flora is enviable”

Joe & Jess Tichy 

 “Baie dankie vie die onvergeetlike ervaring. Ons het n deel van Limpopo gesien waarvan ons nog net gehoor het. Die professionele manier waarop ons gelei is was van uitstaande gehalte”

Thank you very much for the unforgettable experience. We saw a part of Limpopo that I had never even heard of. The professional manner in which we were guided was of an outstanding quality.

Flip & Bettie Brink 

 “Ons het die trip saam met julle baie geniet. Al die mooi plekke wat ons gesien en beleef het sal ons nog lank onthou!”

We enjoyed the trip with you very much. We’ll remember all the lovely places that we saw and experienced for a long time!

Phip & Cecile Koen 

Read Grant Spolander’s article “Beautifully Barren”, published in SA4x4, here.

The camp has been cleared of all debris, with decking replaced and refurbished. All the soft furbishings also had to be replaced.  “It’s beautifully fresh and clean, and the bonus from the flooding is masses of new growth and lush bush. Bird sightings in camp are exceptional at the moment” says Glynn O’Leary from the management operators, Transfrontier Parks Destinations.

Machampane Wilderness Camp, 30kms from the Giriyondo Border Post, is in Mozambique’s Parc Nacionale do Limpopo.  Because the camp is in the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, overnight stays qualify for the mandatory ‘one night stay’ recently imposed by SANParks on travelers doing a ‘Bush to Beach’ trip. Machampane offers full-board and walking activities as well as a Dinner, bed and breakfast option for local travelers who are en transit from South Africa to the Mozambiquan coast.

Final update: Friday 24 February 2012 5pm

Hennie reports that Machampane will be up and running for guests again from the week-end of 3 February 2012.  Until 25 February we will only have 4 tents available.

Well done to the Machampane team for some back-breaking clearing and organisation.

Monday 23 January 2012 – 6pm

Latest road status: The Giriyondo border post is open and fully operational. KNP has graded the road to the border post and the sections of the road what were washed away have been repaired to such an extent that it can be used without a problem. The road in PNL to Massingir can also be used without any problems. 

The river crossing at Machampane is still under water and about 400mm deep. As the river is still flowing, it is unlikely that the level will drop soon. This means the camp is only accessible to vehicles with very high ground clearance i.e. Land Rovers and Land Cruisers.

Monday 23 January 2012  - 10am

Current status:

Giriyondo border post is open, as is the road from Letaba to Giriyondo. There have been extensive wash-aways on the road and Kruger do not recommend the use of the road. Only high-ground clearance 4x4s are advised if you need to travel through. The road through PNL is wet and muddy, and requires careful driving, but has not been washed away.

Machampane Wilderness Camp is currently closed to visitors as we clean and repair flood damage. A re-opening date will be published shortly.

Before and after: tent access

◄ Back

Next ►

Picture 1 of 15

Thursday 19 January 2012 7pm

Report from Hennie van der Colff, Operations Officer TFPD

By now you would all have seen some of the pictures taken during the past 48 hours in Machampane. It is heart breaking to see the brilliant effort Kieran, Denise and Theresa  has put in spring cleaning the tents recently, to all be “washed away”. At first glance we think it make take at least 14 days to get the tents cleaned out and repaired.

 The good news is that we today managed to get the clients out safely. They only had the highest praise for Kieran and Denise who handled the whole situation very well, never panicked and always had the clients safety as first priority. The clients also mentioned that notwithstanding the very difficult circumstances, they did not even miss out on a single meal.

Giriyondo is open again, but the dirt road to the border post has been washed away and damaged badly in certain places. For the moment only high clearance 4×4 vehicles can get through. There is no obvious major damage at the border post itself.

 Thursday 19 January 2012 4pm

News just in that our guests arrived safely at Letaba Camp, collected vehicles, and are currently en-route to their planned overnight accommodation outside Kruger. Our manager (and excellent wet-weather 4×4 driver!) is on his way back to Machampane to spend the night with the staff who are still at the camp. All staff will be moved out tomorrow to get to dry accommodation, and somewhere to refresh. Mopping up operations start in earnest as soon as the water levels have dropped slightly.   Photos and guest stories to follow.

Thursday 19 January 2012 10.30am

Our guests are on their way out in 4×4′s via Giriyondo.  Special arrangements have been made between the authorities of both Kruger and Parque Nacional do Limpop, as well as the customs officials at Giriyondo to clear stranded travellers, and our guests are currently being treated to a (we hope) once in a lifetime experience of wet-weather 4×4 travelling.

Thursday 19 January 10am:

At this stage Machampane Wilderness Camp is closed to guests as a result of the flooding. The re-opening dates will be published as soon as the state of the roads is better understood.  Guests who have advance bookings have already been contacted.  For any further information, please call the booking office on +27 21 701 7860 or email info@tfpd.co.za

Thursday 19 Jan 2012 9am:

The best KNP officials can give us on Giriyondo is that “it is closed until further notice”. Nobody can at this moment can give any indication as to how long it will be closed. It sound like the road to the border post,  in the area of the picnic site has been totally washed away.

 Report from Machampane is that even if the border does open, the camp will not be ready for a few days. All the guest tents were flooded and it will take at least a week to ten days to get it all cleaned, dried, broken items repaired, etc. At this stage there appears to be no infrastructural damage. This is one of the great advantages of the low-impact timber decking building at the camp.

 But before those mopping up operations begin, our immediately concern is to get the clients currently stuck in camp out and back to their vehicle in Letaba camp.  We are dealing with officials at both Kruger National Park and Parque Nacional do Limpopo to work out the best course of action.

Wednesday 18 Jan 2012 5pm:

Latest report from Machampane is that the rain has stopped about two hours ago and that the level of the river has dropped by about 1 metre to under the decks of the tents. They are able to use the main kitchen and dinner is being prepared.

Press release by Kruger National Park on the road closures here:

http://www.dolimpopo.com/blog/closures-in-knp-and-giriyondo-official-press-release

Wednesday 18 Jan 2012 2pm:

Tropical storm “Dando” has hit Machampane and the catchment area of the river. As at 2pm three of the guest tents and the kitchen were flooded, with no prospect of rain letting up. Guests and staff have moved into staff accommodation which is on higher ground. Everyone is safe and wet. Giriyondo Border has been closed, as has the Phalaborwa entrance gate to Kruger.

MEDIA RELEASE

 TEMPORARY CLOSURE OF CROCODILE BRIDGE ENTRANCE GATE AND TOURIST ROADS IN THE KNP

 Due to heavy rains received since yesterday, the low water bridge over the Crocodile River in the Kruger National Park (KNP) is currently overflowing. No vehicle will be allowed entry/exit through Crocodile Bridge Entrance Gate until further notice. Giriyondo Border Gate and other several KNP tourist roads have been affected as well; mostly those with low water crossings/bridges.

 “Closures are necessary to ensure visitors’ safety during this time and guests are advised to exercise caution and use alternative roads (tarred roads with high water bridges), said the KNP Managing Executive, Abe Sibiya.

The following routes/areas are not accessible at the moment and have been temporarily closed:

 - Crocodile Bridge Entrance Gate – please use Malelane Gate as an alternative

- Giriyondo Border Gate

- Makhadzi Picnic Spot

- Shimuwini Bush Camp

- 9km road to Olifants Camp from main road (all access roads to Olifants closed)

- Road between Olifants and Satara

- Sirheni Bush Camp

- Tsendze road between Phalaborwa and Mopani – (guests advised to use Phalaborwa-Letaba)

- Letaba Nhlanganini bridge

- Letaba Camp – filling station and camping site affected

-  H25 gravel road – between Malelane Gate and Crocodile Bridge Camp

- S145 –  to Talamati Bush Camp

- H1/2   – between H4/1 and H12 (low water bridges at Sabie and Sand Rivers)

- S23 Biyamiti Loop

- H1-3 – Nwa’sitsotso (Tshokwane high water bridge)

- Lower Sabie dam (low water bridge)

- Tshokwane Picnic Site flooded

- Routes to Imbali, Tinga and Shishangeni Private Lodges (Concessions)

- Gravel road to Balule Bush Camp

- Most of the gravel roads have been affected and are closed.

- Data lines (e.g. telephones, emails) at various workstations have also been affected.

‘There is a possibility that more roads might be closed due to more water coming in; Technical Services team is monitoring the roads situation and will find access routes for guests who are affected. Guests coming in at the affected camps, in the next few days have been informed of the situation. On behalf of management, we also take this opportunity to apologize to all our guests for the inconveniences which they may have suffered as result of this situation,” concluded Sibiya.

Issued by:

Laura Mukwevho, Media Relations Practitioner, KrugerNational Park. Contact: Tel: 013 735 4262, cell: 082 807 1441 or email: laura.mukwevho@sanparks.org

 Enquiries:

Reynold ”Rey” Thakhuli, General Manager: Media, Events and Stakeholder Relations on Tel: 012 426 5203/5170, Cell: 073 373 4999 or email rey.thakhuli@sanparks.org

Op hierdie vyfdag-roete kom jy nader aan die natuur as ooit tevore.

Maande se beplanning en ongekende Facebook-kommunikasie realiseer 13 Desember 2011 as tien motorfietse en die rugsteunvoertuig van André de Villiers van Safari Centre hulle weg in die rigting van die Groot-Limpopo-oorgrenspark baan. 

Van so ver as Amersfoort en die res uit Pretoria ontmoet die groep wat ‘n dame motorfietsryer (Dani du Preez) insluit, mekaar by Lakenvlei  Country Lodge net skuins anderkant Belfast in Mpumalanga. 

Na ‘n gesellige ken-mekaar-kuiertjie om ‘n tafel trou aan die feesgety gedek, gaan almal vroeg kooi toe in afwagting op wat die volgende vyf dae gaan oplewer.  ‘n Piet-my-vrou weergalm deur die dennewoud tot diep in die nag.

Omstreeks 15:00 dreun die fietse tot stilstand by Manyeleti park net Suid van die Orpen Hek van die Kruger Nationale Park.  Hier word die fietse veilig in bewaring gehou en ‘n wildsvoertuig neem almal met hulle bagasie na Ndzaka kamp.  Sommer by die eerste dammetjie begroet die eerste van die groot vyf ons… ‘n paar buffels wei langsaam in die gras langs die water. Piet-my-vrou laat ons welkom voel en ons trek in ons kamptente in.  By die bymekaarkomarea drink ons ‘n “koffietjie”. ‘n Trop bobbejane het familietwis en terwyl ons die petalje voor ons dophou, geniet die apies solank ‘n vroeë aandete in een van die tente as hulle die mieliemeel ontdek.   Welkom in Afrika.Die groep kom vroeg in beweging en nadat ons gids, Johan Kriek van Transfrontier Parks Destinations (TFPD), en Tertius du Plessis (CMM-organiseerder) die nodige inligting rondom die verloop van die dag met ons gedeel het, word daar in die pad geval.  Mistige reën en ‘n koel windjie is ‘n bedekte seen vir die motorfietsryers.  By Long Tom-pas word die nodige foto’s geneem vir die “Pretoria BMW-klub se passe uitdaging”. Die grondpad tussen Sabie en Klaserie word vervang met die teerpadroete.  Die vermoede is dat die pad na die baie reën superglad en onbegaanbaar gaan wees. Vir middagete doen ons aan by Timbuktu in Klaserie.

Die wildsvoertuig kom laai ons op vir ‘n laatmiddag rit.  Gelukkig is daar nie plek vir almal op die trok nie en André besluit om met sy wel toegeruste Fortuner ook saam te ry.  Na die reën is die tweespoorpaadjie glibberig en by die eerste groterige poel kies die drywer verkeerde lyn en nadat die trokkie sy agterstewe so drie maal moedswillig heen en weer geswaai het, sak sy wiele saggies in die koel modder in.  Hierdie is André se kos en vinnig het hy en sy vrou Yvonne die kinetiese sleeptou in gereedheid.  Die trok kom soos ‘n krap skeef-skeef uit die modder tot op vaste grond.  Nou weet ons hoekom die 4×4 spesialis moes saamkom.

Die son begin kop neerlê in die weste.  Ons sien Njala, waterskilpaaie,  seekoeie, rooibok en Piet-my-vrou laat weet dat ons nou kamp toe moet draai vir ‘n lekker kuier om die kampvuur.

Skuins voor middernag weergalm ‘n geweerskoot…. Nog ‘n Witrenoster wat sneuwel in die Afrika bos?

Hiëna se kind kom besoek ons kampie gedurende die nag en maak seker ons weet van sy aankoms as hy luidkeels groet.  Daarna daal die stilte weer neer en dié wat nie te warm kry nie, slaap rustig tot die son ‘n nuwe dag in Afrika aankondig.

Dag 2: Manyeleti Kamp – Letaba Ranch

‘n Wildrit die volgende oggend lewer baie kleinwild en talle roofvoëls soos die bruinarend en roofarend op.  Groot wild hou hulle egter skaars aangesien water in die veld oor as genoeg is.

Na ‘n vinnige koffietjie en nadat elkeen ‘n ontbyt van een of ander aard aangeslaan het, spring ons op die trokkie met die Fortuner wat volg.  Piet-my-vrou wens ons weer ‘n veilige rit toe.

Oppad na die hek ry ons verby die SAP wat ‘n kringetjie maak om ‘n enkele geweerdoppie in die pad….   Ons vermoede van die vorige aand word wreed bevestig. Die renoster sien ons gelukkig nie.

By die hek saal elkeen weer sy perd op.  Met groot opwinding word daar vertrek na Letaba Ranch.  Hierdie is die eerste kamp waar daar ooreengekom is tydens maande se onderhandelings met Parkeraad dat die fietse mag ry tot by Mtomeni wilderniskamp.

Temperature van meer as 35ºC beproef die fietsryers se uithouvermoë.  Middagete is ‘n vinnige beenstrek onder koeltebome in Phalaborwa by die Bollonato Inligtingsentrum.

Die roete word weer aangepas en ‘n paar grondpaaie word ter wille van veiligheid vermy.  Die laaste stukkie na Letaba Ranch is egter weer grondpad en die manne (en dame) skop goed stof op met ‘n wuif hier en daar na die plaaslike bevolking. 

By die hek gekom ontmoet ‘n groot teleurstelling die motorfietsryers as daar aan hulle gesê word dat hulle nie toegelaat gaan word om in te ry nie.  In die bloedige son probeer Johan die saak beredder, maar Parkerraad hou nie by hulle woord nie en maande se ondehandelings kom tot niks.

Twee motorfietse word egter onder begeleiding toegelaat om tot by Mtomeni Wilderniskamp te ry nadat daar verduidelik is dat Tertius en Peet se motorfietstente nie op hulle eie staangemaak kan word nie, maar dat die fiets die “tentpale” is.  ‘n Klein bietjie welslae!

Na die uitputtende hitte van die dag drapeer almal hulle oor ’n stoel en luister na die visvangertjies en waardeer die uitsig oor die Letaba rivier.  Die vloedlyn van 2000 lê as getuie van die groot mag van die natuur.  Na bewering moes hierdie kampie herbou word nadat alles weggevee is deur die groot waters. ‘n Paar bosbokkies kom drink sku in die laatmiddag.

Die teleurstelling van die middag is gou vergete as die vuurvliegies die nagruim kom opkikker.  ‘n Groot gekuier om die vuur getuig van ‘n gemeenskaplike belangstelling…. moeder natuur.

Dag 3: Letaba Ranch – Makuya Park

‘n Ratel wat vinnig gesig wys in ‘n oop stukkie veld sorg dat die vroegoggend wildrit nie heeltemal vrugteloos is nie.

Vinnig pak en weer in die pad val Noorde toe deur die land van die Shangaans.  Vandag gaan ons die verste afstand tussen parke aanpak wat ons oor die Luvuvhu rivier neem tot in Venda.  Daar hang so ‘n ligte wolkie oor die groep as elkeen wonder of hulle by Makuya park toegelaat gaan word om in te ry.  Die Piet-my-vrou en Visvanger groet en daar gaan ons.

Ligte reën maak alles weer koel en ten spyte van die nat grondpad, is daar kans om die natuur in te neem. Mopanies staan bankvas. ‘n Swerm blousysies maak hulle verskyning om net so vinnig weer die veiligheid van die bos op te soek.

By Makuya Park aangekom, wag almal in spanning as Johan met die man van Natuurbewaring by die hek gaan gesels.  Groot is die opwinding as hy aandui dat die fietse mag inry.  En so maak ons geskiedenis….  Onder begeleiding van die wildsvoertuig baan tien motorfietse in gelid hulle weg na Singo Safari Lodge.  ‘n Paar rooibokke kyk nuuskierig op as hierdie vreemde geluid hulle ore begroet, dan gaan hulle weer rustig aan met vreet.

‘n Ongelooflike uitsig lê stil in die laatmiddag son.  Die Levuvhu rivier maak sy draai reg onder ons voorstoep. ‘n Arend sweef tussen ons en die seekoei op die oewer. Katlagters baljaar in die bos teen die rotse en ons wonder wat soek ons in die stad…

Singo Safari Lodge se kragopwekker kom tot rus om 22:00.  Dis stikdonker en die stilte maak ons ore pyn.  Die rivier se stroomversnellings stoot  sy note saggies teen die kranse op tot waar ons rustig in die bed lê en Afrika beluister. Dit was aand en dit was more… en dit was goed.  

Dag 4: Makuya Park – Nwanedi Wildreservaat

Daar is nie haastigheid vanoggend nie en geen wildrit wat ons laat skuldig voel as ons nie vroeg wikkel nie.  Om 10:00 vertrek ons na die laaste baken op ons roete, Nwanedi Wildreservaat. Grondpad en teerpad wissel mekaar af.  Die grondpad sorg vir pret as sand plek maak vir harde grond en harde grond plek maak vir klip.  Die grondpadvrate is in hulle element. 

Een vir een begin reuse Kremetarte gesig wys. ‘n Besoek aan die Suidelike halfrond se grootste kremetart laat ons klein voel.  ‘n Ou man van Afrika vertel vir ons die boom se geheime. Met ‘n ouderdom van meer as 3500 jaar, vryheidsvegters wat in sy stam geskuil het en wortels wat kilometers ver strek, staan hy as baken van ons erfenis.

Plaaslike bevolking staar nuuskierig as die motorfietse verder voortbeur. Dis dan ook ten aanskoue van een van hierdie gehore dat een van ons lede besluit om vir hom ‘n stukkie grond te koop.  Die 4×4 ondersteuningspan is maar te dankbaar dat hulle slegs nodig het om ‘n paar gebreekte parte en sytasse van sy fiets te red.  Behalwe vir ‘n ego vol krake is daar net ‘n merkie in die sand wat getuig van ‘n paar benoude oomblikke.

Die laaste stoot tot by Eclipse kamp gaan vinnig verby.  Die wild hou hulle by die water in die veld. Net bobbejaan- en aap-se-kind kom groet ons by die kamp.  Piet-my-vrou stel nie teleur nie.

Ons verruil die braaivleisvure op hierdie laaste aand vir ‘n aansitmaal van formaat.  Nabetragting word gehou oor die volhoubaarheid van hierdie nuwe avontuur en almal is dit eens dat hierdie nie ‘n laaste moet wees nie. 

Dag 5: Terug huis toe:

Vir oulaas word die fietse en rugsteunvoertuig gepak en die grondpad verander spoedig in die teerpad huis toe. Afrika het nie teleurgetsel nie!  Dankie Johan en Tertius vir hierdie droom van natuurliefhebbers wat toevallig ook motorfietsryers is wat julle werklikheid laat word het.

Finale woorde:

Donnie van Zyl: Ek was al op verskeie toere op my 1150 GS. Hierdie toer was een wat ek nooit sal vergeet nie, om ‘n paar redes. Die roete was uniek: groot vyf parke, gruispad, sandpad, modderpad, klipperige pad en teerpad met draaie. Die kampe was basies toegerus, so ons kon deel wees van die pragtige natuurskoon. Die mense was onbekendes op dag 1, en vriende op dag 5 – mense van verskillende agtergronde met avontuur op motorfietse as gemene deler. Ek was baie bevoorreg om hierdie ervaring te kon deel met my seun, Marius Van Zyl, – sy eerste motorfietstoer! Beslis nie die laaste pa en seun toer vir ons nie.

Mike: Die was my eerste “bike tour” – maar wat ‘n toer! Wat vir my besonders was is dat die meeste van die plekke wat ons besoek het, veral in die Transfrontier Park – is moontlik kampe wat meeste mense nooit sal sien of besoek nie. En – om agterstraate en grondpaadjies te ry wat ek nie geweet het bestaan nie. Die reën wat ons in gery het het die pret net vermeerder en ons afgekoel. Ons toerlyer Johan Kriek was ‘n ware professioneel, en Andre van Safari Centre met sy “backup vehicle” was daar – dus kon ons die toer geniet en weet dat hulp net ‘n paar meter agter ons was. Dankie vir almal wat die toer moontlik gemaak het, veral aan Tertius.

Peet Townsend: Daar is iets spesiaals wat met ‘n man gebeur wanneer hy homself uitdaag om iets te doen wat hom weerlooskanlaat,  dit wakker sy kryger hart aan en hy begin om die avontuur te lewe wat Vader vir hom beplan het. Die afgelope bosveld trip was so ‘n geleentheid en dis presies waarom ek begin motorfiets ry het. Daar was baie uitdagings wat voor my gelê: mis, reën, grond, klippe, modder, hitte om nie eers van al die insekte te praat nie. Bowenal kon ek ook stil raak in Sy teenwoordigheid, nadink aan die dag se gebeure en hoe Sy hand van beskerming oor elkeen van ons was om elke draai en oor elke bult. Dit was ‘n voorreg om met soveel kleurryke karakters om ‘n kamp vuur te kon sit en kuier. Ons is nou meer as net kennisse, hegte vriendskappe is gesmee en ons het die Adventure geleef of is dit nou oorleef?!

While relaxing at Baderouwe campsite, a herd of Elephants came down for a drink. They came down again during the night.

As always, there was a number of Hippo and Crocodiles to be seen at the Groot and Klein Letaba rivers confluence. This is just the perfect stop for a lunch on day two of the trail.

While relaxing next to the Letaba River, the campsite for the second night, the clients were spoiled with a sighting of a herd of Buffalo coming down for a drink.

The conversations around the campfire was interrupted by some sounds coming from across the river. Under the light of the torches a couple of hippo were seen feeding next to the river.

During the drive down to the Baderoukwe dam, on the last day of the trail, clients were rewarded with good sightings of elephant, Giraffe and Kudu.

• What are the Giriyondo Border Fees
• How long does it take to get from Phalaborwa to the coast?
• What are the border closing times?
• Where can I stay in Parque Nacional do Limpopo?

All the answers are here.  Download the document : a Fact Sheet about Parque National do Limpopo, updated by park management in November 2011,  and the best source of up to date details.

Parque Nacional do Limpopo Fact Sheet updated Nov 2011

http://www.golimpopo.com/news-details_lta-officials-participate-in-the-4×4-transfrontier-wilderness-eco-trails-experience_296.html