If you are a digital photography enthusiast, you already know that the best way to preserve most detail in your photos is to shoot in RAW. There are countless photography websites and magazines advocating shooting in RAW vs JPEG, and benefits you get in post-processing. However, which camera raw file format to use ?

What is RAW ?

RAW file is basically a camera sensor dump. All the information that camera sensor records will be stored in the RAW file. When comparing to the film photography it would be equivalent of a film negative. Each camera manufacturer uses their own proprietary camera RAW format (i.e. NEF for Nikon, CR2 for Cannon, PEF for Pentax…). These files are referred as the “true RAW” image.

Benefits of using RAW

• More Information Stored – Despite the fact that DNG is also considered RAW format and stores whole image, there will be always few parameters that are vendor or camera specific, that are stored in the RAW file. In example, focus point, image settings, etc.
• Better Image Quality ? – I have seen people commenting that they cannot recover so many details from DNG as they can from RAW. I cannot give opinion here, as I have not much worked with DNG in terms of blown highlights and shadows. If anyone has a comment, I would really like to hear his/her opinion in the comments section.
• Smaller file size – Now, the feeling I got from different forum discussions is that in some cases DNG files are smaller. In my case when I compare the PEF file my camera generated, versus the DNG that the camera generated, the PEF is approx 10-20% smaller. This could vary, depending if your camera generates compressed DNG or not. However, given the price of memory cards, the difference I would say is marginal. However if you have small memory cards, then 10-20% sounds good (especially when you shoot 1000s of photos).

Shortcomings of RAW

One drawback of RAW vs DNG are annoying sidecar (XMP) files

• Compatibility – the biggest problem with the RAW files. When I first bought my Pentax K200D, it was so new that my Photoshop Elements (which I was using at the time), did not support it. Unless you are using the software that your camera vendor provides, this can easily happen to you. Despite frequent patches, it may be a while before your camera’s RAW file format is supported, which can lead to problems in post-processing.
• File management – since RAW files do not allow modifications on the photos to be stored in the file itself, all modifications have to be stored in the sidecar (.XMP) files. That means if you want to move your photo, suddenly you have 2 files to worry about (the RAW and XMP) which is a definitive setback from my view.

What is DNG ?

DNG (Digital Negative) is an open standard format introduced by Adobe. DNG still contains RAW data from the camera sensoj, but is not camera dependent. Camera RAW files can be converted to DNG format, but not vice versa. Some newer cameras support DNG as their RAW format (e.g. Pentax K-7), while others (like Leica and Hasselblad use it as their native RAW format).

Benefits of using DNG format

• Compatibility – DNG is supported in all major photo editing tools and works well with any Adobe tool out of the box. That means that you do not have to worry if your camera is supported by the newest release of Photoshop, Lightroom, or any other editing tool.
• File management – DNG allows for storing data about photo and metadata modifications in the DNG file itself. That means, 1 photo – 1 file. I saw people on the forums stating that in that case the original image is destroyed. That is wrong, as modifications to the photo are recorded in the metadata section, so the original RAW data inside the DNG file is unchanged.
• Recording Speed – Since DNG files are not so much compressed as PEF (at least in my camera), the shooting rate is slightly faster if I use DNG instead of RAW.

With the introduction of Lightroom 4 (which is currently in beta), advocates of DNG will find 3 more benefits, according to CNET’s article by Stephen Shankland:

Lightroom 4 will introduce some additional benefits for those who use DNG in their workflow

1. “Fast-load data,” a miniature raw preview image embedded in the file that makes it faster to switch among images in Lightroom’s develop module–eight times as fast, according to Tom Hogarty, principal product manager for Lightroom.
2. “Tiled” DNG files divided into parts so multicore processors can read and write them faster.
3. An option for “lossy” compression to dramatically reduce file size–though because data from the original is lost irretrievably, this option likely will hold appeal only in some scenarios.

Special thanks to Matt Kloskowski, for bringing this article to my attention.

Shortcomings of DNG

• Conversion process is required as some cameras do not support DNG format directly. The conversion process takes some time and slows down post production.
• Compatibility with older versions of software. New versions of the DNG specification can mean older software can’t read newer files.

Conclusion

So, the question of the day is which raw file format to use DNG or RAW. Until today, I have been consistently using RAW format, as I had an impression from my old Pentax K200D (which also had DNG feature), that DNG files are 2x the size of the RAW. Doing research for this article has changed my perspective. I believe I will convert my RAW files to DNG as soon as possible, as I find sidecar files annoying, and given the size difference (10%) between RAW and DNG, I think DNG is the way to go (in my case at least). The announced changes for DNG handling in Lightroom are just icing on a cake, sweetening already sweet deal

Share your comments with us. What is your opinion ? RAW or DNG ?

This travel photography eBook describes the approach and the reasoning behind producing documentary photographs, and gives useful tips on how to handle a travel photography project. The documentary project used to illustrate these tips was Mitchell’s encounters with Rabari – a nomadic tribe of Indian cattle herders.

The book is structured differently than other photography books out there, which we found very refreshing. The eBook is structured as a case-study where 10 of Mitchell’s photos are analyzed in detail. Each photo is analyzed through:

• Background Information – Story behind the image. These details are a great documentary body of work in itself and help better grasp Rabari culture and customs. Background Information also illustrates how did the photographer come to the opportunity of taking the image, and is as such useful to newbies looking to get into documentary photography.




• Objectives – Depicts photographer’s goals, and what he wanted to achieve with the image. It also describes how do these objectives impact choice of subject, background, lighting, and basically all elements that create a strong photo.




• Light – An interesting and highly useful section which describes the lighting setup behind each photo. Given the fact that this was a documentary/travel project, the choice of equipment was very limited, and most of the lighting was done with a help of a reflector. Don’t expect fancy studio set-ups here. The plus side is that this section actually illustrates how much can be achieved using only natural lightning with a little bit of manipulation.




• Moment and/or pose – Covers communication with the model and how to direct the model to produce the desired result.




• Composition – Covers the reasoning behind compositional choices. There are many photography books about composition rules, and this one thankfully is not one of them. Rather than just listing composition tips, the author discusses the composition choices describing in simple English WHAT he did and WHY. It is that WHY that tells the photographer how to approach the image, and if the compositional rules should be followed, or broken.




• Biggest challenge – This is a very interesting section as it describes the challenge presented in each photo, and what steps the author took to overcome it.




• The What and Why of post processing – Post processing is sometimes regarded as cheating when it comes to photos, and that the photos should be best done in-camera. While we do not argue that you should strive to get the best result possible in camera, the author nicely describes the need for post processing:
  “Post-processing is an integral part of each photograph. Our cameras have limitations – colors often don’t come out as richly as we saw them and tonal range that the eyes see is simply impossible for the camera to reproduce”.
  This section is not step-by-step tutorial. The author describes WHAT did he do to improve the image and WHY, and assumes that the guides on HOW to do it are easily available on the Internet. We believe that this is the right approach as it keeps the guide simple and easy to follow. Note that some degree of understanding the post-processing is required to fully reap the benefits presented in this section.

At the end of each photo analysis there is a small table with several Quick Tips that provides a nice summary of the lessons learned from shooting that particular photo, presented in easy to understand and remember way.

Take look at the screenshots below for more detail about the looks and the content of the book.

Background info and lighting

Model and pose & Composition

Closing Comments

There are many books on photography nowadays, however most of them focus only on rules, lessons and tips. Thankfully, Rabari – Encounters with the Nomadic Tribe is not just another one of them. It is new and refreshing. We liked the approach that Mitchell took in terms of explaining the background, the objectives, and all other elements that had to work together towards creating a truly great photo. Such approach helps the reader understand the photographer’s mindset, and the creative decisions the photographer took in order to “Get the shot”.

This book is a great case study on documentary photography, where you can learn a lot about how to shoot, direct and post-process documentary travel photos, in a simple and easy-to-read manner.
Did we also mention that this book looks just amazing on the iPad ?

The Rabari – Encounters with the Nomadic Tribe book can be purchased online as a digital download from LightStalking.com, and it costs $24.95. However if you hurry up and purchase it before Christmas, you can get it here for special Christmas release price of $19.95.

Click here to view more details

How does it work ?

The overall idea is that you go and take your photos, and leave GPS recording to your phone, tablet or GPS device. Then, when you come home and import your photos to your photo editing software, to automatically add GPS coordinates to your photos from the recorded track on your phone. Don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds. Besides, we will guide you step-by-step through the process.

Trails

Path Tracking Lite

Step 1: Preparation

“sync the clocks and get the apps”
For the process to work, you need to have a device capable of recording your GPS coordinates. Nowadays most modern smartphones come equipped with some kind of GPS sensor, and there are a lot of GPS Tracker apps on AppStore and Android Market. Our favorite apps are:

• Trails – GPS Tracker – for iOS devices
• Path Tracking Lite – for Android devices

…If you would prefer to use any other app or GPS recording device, you can do so. The only requirement is that the device supports exporting the recorded track to a standard .GPX format. You will need this .gpx file later in the process of geotagging your pictures.

Also, as a part of preparation make sure that:

• The dates and times (and timezones) are more-less synchronized on your GPS recording device and your camera.
• If you are using iPhone / Android for GPS recording, that your GPS sensor is enabled (turned on).

Trails App. Click to enlarge

Step 2: GPS Recording

“record your position to a GPX file”
Ok, so you have arrived on the desired location, batteries charged, and GPS enabled. Time to start recording.

In the case of Trails do the following:

1. Start the Trails app
2. Tap on the Tracks, then on the + sign, to add new track
3. Input the new track name and description, and press save
4. Tap on the track name, and then in the bottom right option tap on the “start recording
5. That’s it. Now go and shoot your photos
6. When you are done, open Trails again, and press “stop recording” in the bottom right
7. Final step, press option icon in lower left corner, and under export menu, select e-mail, and e-mail the track to yourself

If you are using Path Tracking lite, do the following:

Path Tracking Lite Screen. Click to enlarge

1. Start Path Tracking Lite app, and wait for a few sec while it determines your location
2. Press the option key on your android (sometimes referred as alt), and select “Record Path” option
3. Wait for a few seconds while GPS zeros in on your location, and make sure it is correct. You will notice that the app started to draw a path
4. Now, you are ready to shoot your photos.
5. When you are done, press option key again, and select “Stop Recording”. You will be prompted to input Title and description.
6. Press option again and select “Show Records”, and then tap and hold on the name of the record you want to use. You will be presented with several options. Select “Send GPX File”
7. Here you have more options how to transfer GPX file to your computer (i.e. e-mail, dropbox, evernote, bluetooth, etc.)

… If you have done the steps above correctly, you should have photos, as well as GPX file of your recorded path on your computer. Time for the next step…

Step 3: Importing and Geotagging Pictures

“use the GPX file to geoencode the pictures”

Adobe Lightroom

Now, all that remains, is to actually take the recorded GPX file, and use it to geotag your photos. (You can click pictures to enlarge them)

1. In the Lightroom, select the photos you wish to geocode, and select File -> Plug-in Extras -> Geoencode	2...in te Jeffrey's Lightroom Geoencoding support plug-in, Select the tab titled: "Geoencode from Tracklog", and select your GPX file. Pay special attention to the timezone settings. Press Geoencode Images.
3. That's it. If you have done the above steps correctly, you should get location information in the Geoencoding panel of Metadata. If you click the arrow beside the map...
... you will be able to see the location where your photo was taken

TIP: Please note that the Geoencoding process will only add GPS coordinates to the photo. The sub location fields City, State, Country, etc will not be filled directly. However, of you go to the next tab in the plugin “Reverse Geo”, you would be able to get that information directly from Google maps.

*This article assumes that you do have an iPhone, iPad, or android phone at your disposal for recording your gps position, and that you use Adobe Lightroom to process your photos, however the principles are applicable to other GPS recording devices and photo editing software as well.

Depth of field preview function (or DOF preview) is typically used to check Depth of Field (duh ?). What it means is that it helps the photographer evaluate which points of the scene will be in sharp focus, which will not, and if the aperture is set correctly to produce a desired creative effect as intended by the photographer.

However, during this summer, I have found 2 more practical uses for the DOF Preview function:

Actively use DOF Preview function for focusing

I have seen most of photography books and websites advertising to use DOF Preview, merely as a preview once when aperture and focus points are set. I say, take a step forward and actively use DOF Preview for adjusting both your aperture and focal point, until you are happy with result. For that to work, you will have to switch to manual focusing, set your aperture, press the DOF preview (to step down the aperture to the predefined value), and then (while DOF preview is pressed) use the focusing ring on your lens until your main focal point is in sharp focus.

We would recommend you to use that feature together with Live View, when your digital camera is already on a tripod, as in that case you can directly see the photo you are getting on your LCD display. Just set your aperture, switch camera to manual focusing, enable live view and while you are holding DOF preview, tweak the focus until you are content with the result.

View from Lubenice

Use DOF Preview function to help adjusting ND Grad filter

ND Graduated filters are a very useful piece of equipment for shooting landscapes, as they help even out exposure between the sky and the ground. That allows the camera to capture bigger dynamic range, resulting in nicer photos (where the sky is not blown out, or the ground is not too dark).

However putting ND Grad filter in place can be a tricky task, since the effects of the ND grad filter can be very subtle, and hard to see in a viewfinder (especially with the soft grads where the gradation line is not so well defined as it is in hard grads). It becomes easy to drag the gradation line too far down or up, thus killing the overall purpose of using it in the first place.

DOF Preview function helps, combined with higher aperture, as the gradation line of the filter becomes more pronounced in the viewfinder, and thus allowing easier positioning of the ND Grad filter. We also recommend to use it in conjunction with a tripod and live-view for maximum results.

an example of ND Grad Filter

Got another cool suggestion on how to use DOF Preview ? Let us know in the comments.

It was only a few weeks back that i have decided to take the plunge and see what all the fuss around Lightroom 3 is about. I have bought and installed it, imported all of my albums from my old photoshop elements, and immediately got confused. There were so many different tabs, options and lots of different ways to present and work with your photos that i felt a bit overwhelmed.

I have never worked with a photography workflow tool and was failing to understand how all of the modules in Lightroom fit together. So i started to look for some Lightroom 3 tutorials. There are tons of tutorials and tips for Lightroom, but not many of them are simple, concise and organized as a course to get familiar with using Lightroom, which is exactly what Lightroom 3 101 tutorials is.

Lightroom 3 101 tutorials is an iPhone, iPod and iPad app aimed at photography enthusiasts who are just getting to know Adobe Lightroom, and seeking an introduction to Lightroom 3′s controls and interface, as well as some simple pointers on how to use it.

Chapters Menu shows that the tutorials are well laid out with interface and control overviews at the top, followed by module specific tutorials.

The tutorials are organized in approx 47 chapters that will cover all the aspects of the Lightroom 3 tool. First couple of tutorials will help you get familiar with how Lightroom 3 interface is organized, followed by more in-depth tutorials explaining the rationale behind each of the modules included in Lightroom 3:

• Library
• Develop
• Slideshow
• Print
• Web

Each tutorial is presented in a simple, easy to understand way, and since it’s running on iPad (in our case), it gives you a chance to simultaneously try out each of the functions presented in the tutorial (on your PC or Mac), while you are watching it on your iPad, without the need to switch windows (as you would in the case of regular video tutorial).

The tutorials are well explained, and easy to follow.

Please note that this app is mostly aimed towards Lightroom beginners, and not towards more advanced users looking for cool and specific lightroom tips. There are several great Apple TV channels for that (i.e. Lightroom Killer Tips). However, given a price of $9.99 Lightroom 3 101 tutorials is a valuable addition to your Lightroom training boot camp, that will help you start using Lightroom 3 in no-time.

You can get Lightroom 3 101 tutorials on the AppStore. Just click the icon below.

Choose wisely when you pick an island resort in maldives, as in most cases, this is where you will spend most of your time. There are several organized tours that will take you snorkeling, visiting other islands and sailing activities, but the concept of island hopping is really not so popular there, and it is hard to even obtain a permit just to disembark on another island on your own.

Given the fact that maldivian islands are rather small and private (300-800m in size), do expect that you will have plenty of time to relax, and enjoy the natural beauty of these wonderful islands. Also, Maldives are a perfect location to shoot a bunch of yaw-dropping maldives photos. In this photo destination guide, we will cover what is worth shooting in Maldives.

1. Beach Maldives

Beach is one of the first subjects that comes to mind when you think about maldives photos. The beautiful white sand, turquoise water, and lush green vegetation are hard to resist. To be honest, when i first saw beach photos from the maldives, i thought they were photoshopped, but seeing that in person, it truly is heaven on earth.

A Morning in Maldives

Few tips when making beach photos in maldives.

- Always have a polarizing filter with you, as it will help saturate the scene, and remove unnecessary reflections, especially if you will take photos during the day when the sun is high up in the sky. That little piece of glass is a life saver. Just remember that the polarizing filter will stop light about 0.5 stops, so make sure you compensate by dialing exposure compensation 0.5 stops up.

- Check your exposure – white sand from the beach, can play tricks with your exposure, in attempt to get the beach to look grey (due to the way the light metering system works). In order to avoid such effects, dial exposure compensation 0.5-1.0 stops up, depending on the scene.

2. Maldivian Flowers

Maldivian flora is very rich and colorful making it an ideal subject for shooting amazing flower shots. Typical flowers there include orchids, hibiscus, ginger among others. If you find yourselves in Maldives during the rainy season, you are in for a treat, photography wise (thanks to maldives weather). Orchids look amazing after the rain, when the first rays of sun show up, and this is a photo opportunity that is not to be missed. In general, all Maldives flowers stand out for their vibrant colors, and interesting shapes.

Purple Orchids in Maldives

Here is some advice when shooting maldives flowers

- Consider your background – vibrant colors of the maldives flowers are best shown on a monochromatic background. Whether it is green from the surrounding leaves and plant-life, or blue from the sky or the sea, compose your photos that one of them is included as a background. This will make the flowers stand out even more.

- Use shallow depth of field – by blurring the background you will put more emphasis on the flower itself

- Get in close, and go crazy with the colors – maldives flowers are all about vibrance. This is not a place to be shy or moderate with your composition. Get in as close as you can, and remember, the stronger colors, the more the appeal of the final photo. So go crazy.

3. Maldivian Wildlife

Although it may seem at the first glance, there is not much wildlife to shoot in Maldives, you would be surprised. Starting with fish, which are a real treat for underwater photographers seeking colorful photos of the coral reef wildlife, maldivian fish are colorful and varied. When snorkeling in maldives, you can go for color diversity of the smaller coral reef fish, or decide to shoot elegant and awe inspiring manta rays, up to numerous small coral reef sharks that can be found there. Other wildlife include geckos, crabs and if you are very lucky, a bat.

Dragonfly Close-up

Different animals pose different requirements for shooting, but regardless of the subject, expect that shooting wildlife will be an exercise in patience.

4. Sunsets in Maldives

Maldives feature some of the most dramatic and awe inspiring sunsets I have seen yet. If you come during the end of rainy season (end of November), you will get a chance to witness a dance of the colors ranging from orange coming from the setting sun, mixing with dark blue clouds, setting the stage for some of the most awe-inspiring sunset maldives photos.

Maldivian Sunset

When shooting sunsets, you might want to consider

- use ND Grad filter – the ND Grad filter evens out the exposure between the sky and the ground, significantly improving the tonal range

- use a tripod and a remote release – lower light photos imply the use of the slower shutter speed, meaning your camera will be more prone to camera shake. To fix that, make sure you mount your camera to a sturdy tripod and fire it off using either a timer or a remote release.

- play with the White Balance settings – if you want to accentuate the colors of the sunset, it might pay dividends to play with the WB settings. In Example, if you set your white balance to cloudy, or even shade, the orange colors of the sunset will be much stronger than if you used the daylight WB setting.

5. Island resort maldives

Island resorts in maldives are a treat in their own right, and they fit perfectly into their surroundings, which makes them great candidates for some nice landscape photos. During my stay there i was in paradise island resort maldives, in one of the beach bungalows. There were also some water bungalows on the other side of the island, should you choose to have your own entrance in the water. Paradise Island maldives is a resort situated on a 800m by 200m island. Interesting subjects to shoot there were a bar (situated directly on a beach), a jetty leading to the italian restaurant, a spa resembling the garden of Eden, a beach club, and many island pathways.

Paradise Island Maldives

My attention was caught by a swing, just in front of the bar. As you can see from the photo, i have used stones in the sand as a sort of lead-in lines.

Another island resort maldives worth visiting and shooting is Bandos maldives. This is a small island not far from paradise island resort, and there is a tour that will take you to visit it. On Bandos I have shot some of the most amazing photos from the whole trip. Bandos maldives truly is a paradise on earth, and it does not take too much skill to take great photos there. They just pop in.

Bandos beach scene

6. Boats

Traditional maldivian boats (Dhoni) are very interesting subjects to shoot due to their characteristic curved bow. The traditional dhoni is one of the oldest known sea vessels in the Maldives. Many of these traditional sailing vessels were, of necessity, built using coconut palm timber. The sailing dhoni was used in earlier days by Maldivian fishermen. Now they are usually used to ferry goods and tourists between the islands.

Dhoni

A tip i would give you regarding shooting boats, is look for detail to shoot. The boats really look appealing, but sometimes it is not necessary to shoot everything. A part of the boat hints the rest and leaves watcher guessing. Think about it.

I hope that this guide has provided you with some ideas what to shoot in Maldives, just remember to also leave your camera and appreciate the beauty of the environment on its own. It’s definitely worth it.

Riddarholmen Church door

Ever heard of the saying: “Less is more” ?

This is especially true in digital photography. Usually, the strength of your composition depends more on the things you take away than the things you include in your photo.

So when you are shooting your photo, think hard about your main subject and the story it tells.

Then think about how do the individual items in your viewfinder contribute to that story, and do not be afraid to remove everything that does not absolutely deserve to be in the frame.

The point is, that by removing unnecessary clutter, you ensure that:

1. The subject of the photo is clearly defined
2. All other elements detracting from your main subject are out of the way
3. Less elements in the frame allow you to create a stronger composition with the ones that matter

So our tip of the week is:

Keep things simple in your photos

Feature simplicity in your photos and post them to Digital Photography Student Flickr Group.