Never heard of watches from dinosaur’s excrement?
Welcome to world of Yvan Arpa.

Yvan Arpa – famous watchmaker, who has shaken up Swiss watch industry with crazy ideas. Sometimes he says that his ideas come from alcohol that’s why it is clear why Yvan Arpa earned the reputation of watchmaking hooligan.

Yvan made his debut in the watch industry in 1995, but his name exploded upon the mind of connoisseurs a decade later when he became the CEO of Romain Jerome. Yvan was blessed with the risky and bold idea to transform rusted steel into a noble alloy and sell the corroded metal at the price of gold. It resulted with Romain Jerome Titanic DNA tourbillon watch at a price of three hundred thousand dollars. Yvan launched the “DNA” project after acquiring a 1.5 kilograms piece of the Titanic’s hull from an unnamed seller. According to watchmaker it was recovered in 1991 before the Titanic site was given protected status.

As Yvan was a mathematics teacher, he always thinks if there is a potential for sales when he does crazy ideas. So Yvan continued with a series of eyebrow-raising timepieces for Romain Jerome for example watch that did not tell the time, and the “Moon dust DNA series”, which incorporates moon dust into the watch face and steel from the Apollo 11 space shuttle into the case. According to Yvan it was bought from NASA.

Inspired by his fighting as a professional Muay Thai boxer in Bangkok in 1978, Yvan established Black Belt Watches brand in 2009. These watches are available only to those who can prove that they have a black belt in any kind of martial arts.

In the same year Mr. Rebel watchmaker launched his second brand Artya and presented watches that earlier were only on a joker’s mind. So he did the first watch with a dinosaur coprolite. Coprolite is an excrement of dinosaur which have been fossilised during 100 million years. Yvan Arpa sold out all dung watches for a reasonable price of 12 thousand dollars per piece.

Then he went even further and introduced a unique and indeed sensational Tesla coil “lightning struck” technique to engrave the watch case, which nobody else ever would think to incorporate with watchmaking. As Yvan says, this specific watch is a tourbillon and it’s a tourbillon which has been sculpted by the lightning of the thunder. Every case is completely unique and completely different. The case takes different colors and scars depending on how the lighting goes on the case.

This Revolutionary watchmaker has continued with a series of atypical materials. These have ranged from shredded euro bank notes to real bullets, from butterflies to spiders and scorpions, and above all, from never-drying paint to his own blood. The “Son of sound” line astonished audiences with it’s guitar-shaped case. Pure contemporary art in watchmaking!

In 2013 Arpa tamed his lust for experimenting and came back to his roots of Haute Horlogery.  He introduced his third brand Spero Lucem. This Collection consists of two high-end timepieces and pays tribute to the Mecca of traditional Swiss watchmaking: Geneva. It incorporates sections of the city’s flag into its logo and the watch La Clémence makes reference to Geneva’s largest cathedral bell. When the minute-repeater sounds the time, the watch’s hands circle rapidly in opposite directions. The price is 536 thousand dollars.

Ivan never compete with Rolex or Patek because he respects his competitors and their business.

Yvan definitively has got a perfect sense of humor. With his latest creation he answers the question of how the Swiss Luxury Watches Industry will compete with the growing popularity of smartwatches. He proposes to ameliorate this threat, comparable to the Quartz Crisis, by offering a gold case with baguette-cut diamonds for the smartwatch of choice at a price of 65 thousand dollars. Exclusive customization of mass market smart watches could be very profitable. And the professor of mathematics Yvan Arpa has figured it out already.

[...] The post Yvan Arpa – hooligan of watchmaking – Video by Chronograph appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

Hello! I have been working as a graphical designer since 2007. At that time I was developing interfaces for websites and I was modelling 3D objects as well. Starting with 2014 I began to create wristwatches design concepts.

Why did you decide to make namely wristwatches design?

The wristwatches are the representation of the human’s style, they speak about his character, render his status. The watches is my long-standing passion. I have a small collection of mechanical watches which were issued in 80s. I just was always wondering “which useful functions and complications could be added to the watches?” I was drawing some drafts on the paper and at one moment I decided to draw a 3D watch which I would wear by myself with a pleasure.

Concept of Dive Watch

So, I drew a concept of Dive watch (images are here). I showed them to my friends and everybody liked them very much. Thus I decided not to stop and continue to think out the new models. I simply keep an eye on the famous brands’ news and I sometimes notice details that I would do in other way slightly changing the form or the measure or even the elements’ form, colour, material.

How do you see the ideal wristwatch?

The watch is something out of time, it should look out and work equally well even after 50 years. Because of this while creating the new watch concepts I accentuate the assembling quality and materials durability. I like steel and sapphire glass, ceramics and the natural minerals. The information at the dial-plate should be easy to read even if the skeleton design is used. This is very important how the information will look out under the sun light or in the dusk.

I pay a proper attention to the comfort of watch wearing I imagine exactly how the model would rest on the wrist. For instance, if I would develop a sports watch I would pay a special attention to the wristlet ventilation. Basically, such wristlets are done out of the polymeric plastic. Thus it is not difficult to create a well vented wristlet. I have a sports model of Cassio which is very comfortable to wear. I often use it during my trainings and this is the main argument why I bought this watch.

As to the design – this is a highly individual thing and only the watch owner has the right to make a choice.

What can you say about the watch world’s brands? Which ones do you like the most?

If we consider the everyday watch then probably it is Rolex Submariner or GMT Master, a classical design which will never go out of fashion. Everything is simple and at the same time amazingly concise in this watch. It is necessary to pay a due respect to Rolex designers.

One of my favourite brands is Roger Dubuis. These watches have absolutely unique design where the sharp lines and angles give some aggression and the symmetrical elements of the mechanism create complete style of the absolute design.

Concept Watch

Many brands such as Hublot and Amadeus Piaget don’t want to experiment mainly having practically the same body, they just renew the watch face and small details. I think it is connected with the risks that the community of fans would not accept the new models.

Which future plans do you have? Which watch’s ideas are you about to do?

Now I am occupied with the creation of the Damascus steel chronograph concept. In this watch I plan to realize the atypical representation of the information which chronograph accumulative hands show. I think you will see them soon.

I also have some ideas of creating the watch linked with the historical architectural masterpieces subject-matter. It will be a splendid watch with a very detailed body and dial-plate. Most likely I will use the precious jewels inlays, gold and platinum.

You will be able to see my new works at the address of my portfolio – http://amwatchdesign.com/

[...] The post Interview of Alexandr Mituc – Watch Designer appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

For me personally, it was love at first sight. Although I didn’t know much about the Royal Oak and its historical models at first, I just loved the shape of the case and the integrated bracelet.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST

Somewhere in the late 1990s, Audemars Piguet started to create catalogs that were numbered (1,2,3). It was a trilogy of catalogs that came out in 1998. In the first catalog, there was this testimonial of a Royal Oak owner. Bruno Rubinksy, owner of a department store in Paris, talked freely about his watch collecting since age 12 and how he met this cosmopolitan with an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak on his wrist. In this testimonial, he stated that he search long and hard for a similar watch and eventually found a pre-owned model in poor condition. He had it restored and it was made from scratch again.

After I read that testimonial (which is still one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen in a catalog, instead of all the paid-to-wear-our-watch-ambassadors) I was hooked. But the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was never a cheap watch and I was just a student at the time collecting affordable (mainly vintage) watches. In the testimonial, Bruno Rubinsky was wearing the white dial Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ (or ‘Extra-Thin’ as Audemars Piguet calls the current version), reference 15202.

This was the official successor of the original Royal Oak that legendary watch designer Gérald Genta did for Audemars Piguet in 1971. The first Royal Oak (reference 5402) was shown during the watch show in Basel in 1972 and quite a success from the start, despite its high price. The idea to only produce a few of them turned out to be a bad one. Today, the Royal Oak is the backbone of the Audemars Piguet collection and was used in 1993 to take it one step further (or ore extreme) with the Offshore collection.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST – Caseback

The 15202 is and was an expensive watch though and only affordable in my wildest dreams as a young watch collector. Then, in 2009, I was able to trade-up a Rolex Yacht-Master and an Omega Speedmaster for a Royal Oak Date. This was the 39mm 15300 reference that was introduced in 2005 with an in-house (caliber 3120) movement. It had the white dial, just like the one from Rubinsky and was in good condition.

Later that year, I received an unexpected call from a jeweler to ask me about a Royal Oak he just traded in. He told me it was a 15202ST. I asked him if you would consider a trade-in of a Royal Oak 15300 and he told me he would. After going a bit back and forth about the price to be paid on top of the trade, I agreed and rushed to his shop. A beautiful Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 with the famous charcoal dial (never call it blue or black dial when talking to an owner of such a watch). I couldn’t be happier.

So it took about 10 years to finally get the model that I saw in the Audemars Piguet catalog when being a student, but that was quickly forgotten.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST

The Royal Oak 15202ST is perhaps not the most important model in my modest collection of watches, but it remains one of my precious pieces in any case. This watch is so refined, with its brushed surfaces and polished angles, that it is truly a joy to take out of the safe and wear it for a couple of days. The movement inside, caliber 2121, based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber 920 (that they actually never used themselves) is one of the most beautiful time only self-winding movements I’ve ever come across. The dial looks amazing with its Clous de Paris and it appears that the hands are almost floating in liquid, as the space between the sapphire crystal and dial is so small.

When you finally have your Holy Grail of watches, another one eventually pops-up of course. I always thought this would be the Patek Philippe Nautilus, but after giving that watch a spin for a week (borrowed from a friend of mine) I decided that the Royal Oak is more my kind of watch. Where the Nautilus (also designed by Gérald Genta, a few years after the introduction of the Royal Oak) has a dressier apparel due to its smooth lines and finer brushed finish, the Royal Oak is more raw and really is a luxury stainless steel sports watch. So even after 6 years of ownership, I could say that this is my grail watch and I am not planning to let it go.

[...] The post The Iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

A. Lange & Söhne was founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange. His sons Richard and Emil improved the quality of German pocket watches to such a high level that they were competitive with Swiss watches. In 1898, the German Kaiser Wilhelm the Second gave a gift to the Turkish Sultan of A. Lange &Söhne pocket watch with his image encrusted inside. During World War II, just like all German manufacturers, Lange also produced wristwatches to be used by the pilots of the Luftwaffe, the famous B-uhr. This giant chronometer with the mechanism of a pocketwatch, was worm on top of the pilot’s jacket. The winding head had the shape of an onion so you could wind the watch without removing your gloves. To this day, B-Uhr remains the epitome among aviator watches.

After World War II, when Germany was divided into East and West, the city of Glashütte in Saxony, in which was based the manufacturing centre of A. Lange &Söhne, fell into the USSR sphere of influence. In 1948, the company was expropriated. The workforce and machinery were transferred to the directorship of the Glashütte Urenbetriebe- a national company, which united all watch manufacturers in Saxony. During the era of the German Democratic Republic (GDR) the company produced a much simpler model by the thousands each year.

Walter Lange – the great grandson of the founder of the company, was drafted into the German army during World War II. He remembers the horror of the war to this day. He was wounded in the leg and received treatment at a hospital in his native Glashütte. In 1948, after the nationalization of the company, the 24 year old Walter was strongly encouraged by the government of the GDR to work in the newly nationalized company, but he refused. Lange was consequently threatened with exile to a uranium production mill so he fled to West Germany.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall, Lange returned to Glashütte. Forty-two years had passed since the nationalization of the company. Despite being 66 years of age and retired, Walter resurrected the manufacturing business. Günter Blümlein, a genius in the craft of watch-making, helped him to create the first collection, which consisted of four models finally presented to the public in 1994.

The sensation on that occasion was the LANGE 1. The asymmetric watch face and a large date indicator were first of a kind in a serially made wristwatch. At this Timezone model the large dial shows the home time. The small sub dial within this home time dial shows the seconds and then there is this little day/night indicator located at 12 o’clock. The local time dial (sub dial at 4 o’clock) also has a similar day/night indicator. At 3 o’clock, you see the power reserve indicator. Simple, but Brilliant decision is the use of Roman numerals for the home time dial and the use of Arabic numerals for the local time dial.The current price 50,000 dollars.

But the height of innovation for the company was the GRAND COMPLICATION watch introduced in 2013. At a price of 2.6 million dollars. Inside this watch there are seven classic watch complications: the Grand Sonnerie and the Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, a chronograph with a double-split function, an indicator of the instant second changer and a perpetual calendar.

Walter Lange turned 90 years of age in 2014. He is certainly a living legend! What accomplishment! He returned the manufacturing business back to its historic site at the family residence and returned the brand A. Lange & Söhne to very top of Mount Olympus of watchmaking craft.

[...] The post The great comeback of A. Lange & Söhne – Video by Chronograph appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

This approach of course is not unique in the watch world. When thinking of watch brands that have tried to build a platform based on exclusivity and price any number of names spring to mind, all of which have experienced various degrees of success. What sets Greubel Forsey apart is the fact that the sole focus here is clearly not profitability.

Now I admit, that may seem like a strange thing to say about a company whose entry level offerings cost more than most high-end supercars but take a moment to really think about it and you’ll see there’s some truth to what I am talking about. Sure, there’s no doubt the company is doing well financially but at the same time they are spending millions and millions of dollars on research and development to breakthrough previously established technical and aesthetic boundaries. Add to that the founders’ – Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey – legendary refusal to compromise on any element of the watchmaking process, no matter how minor, and you quickly realize that the best way to make watches and the most efficient way to make watches are not the same thing, and one is vastly more expensive (and thus less profitable) than the other.

The Greubel Forsey GMT Black

The new Greubel Forsey GMT Black – officially unveiled at SIHH 2015 a few weeks ago – is a great example of this. Arguably one of the most popular and, dare I say, mainstream models in the Greubel Forsey line-up, the GMT has been offered in several limited variants (including a gorgeous platinum version) since making its debut back in 2011.

The Greubel Forsey GMT Black

Although it doesn’t look like it, the GMT is without a doubt the least complicated piece in the Greubel Forsey range, which makes it the perfect candidate to illustrate my point above.

You see, although it only features one tourbillon (gasp!) the research and resources that went into developing the GMT go so far above and beyond what anyone would suggest is rational for a company trying to make a profitable product it almost defies belief. To give but a small example of this, this is what Greubel Forsey co-founder Stephen Forsey told me about the construction of the GMT when I asked him about it during a recent visit to New York;

“It took us 18 months to get the first complete globe how we wanted it. We spoke with our machinist and he was confident it would only take three months, although we thought six to nine months was more likely. Twelve months later he was ready to throw us out but we knew how fantastic it would be when we got the final result we wanted and so we managed to convince him to have another go.

It’s challenging but that’s part of the whole adventure, it’s part of the whole difficulty that takes us to the level of this. We’re on the every edge of the technology of several different parts of each timepiece, of what’s possible technologically today.”

At Greubel Forsey they don’t talk about product life cycles in weeks or months, they talk about them in years, which if you really think about it, is pretty insane. Of course, if you’ve ever had the chance to hold a Greubel Forsey timepiece in your hands than you know it’s totally worth the wait. They really are the Pagani Huayra of the watch world, a custom-built machine engineered for maximum performance and beauty without any consideration for cost. Sure there are quicker and easier ways to do things but they don’t even enter into the equation. Ever.

So, with all that in mind, what’s the GMT Black like in person you ask? Simply sublime. I have been fortunate enough to handle at one point or another most of the exceptional timepieces in the Greubel Forsey range – including the insanely complicated Quadruple Tourbillons – and I have to say the GMT Black lives up to all the expectations you would have of Greubel Forsey timepiece and then some.

This is only the second time the company has used a titanium case and so the relative lightness of the watch on the wrist is particularly noticeable in comparison to the other GMT models, especially the platinum version, which I personally quite like. After all, at 43.5mm the case is reasonably sizable on the wrist and so the reduced weight makes it just that little more wearable.

Greubel Forsey GMT Black – Wristshot

As you can see the case has been treated with a black ADLC (amorphous diamond-like carbon) finish, hence the name, and this again completely changes the look and feel of the watch for me. Everything just seems to pop that little bit more, really highlighting the three-dimensional construction of the dial. The miniature earth Mr. Forsey was talking about before – or ‘flying’ globe, as it’s called by the brand – is exquisitely detailed, despite its diminutive stature. Secured at just one end of its rotational axis – the South Pole – it completes one full anti-clockwise rotation every 24 hours – mimicking the Earth’s natural rotational direction.

Complementing the globe is a small sub-dial at 10 o’clock which features a 12-hour second time zone to ensure the precise indication of the time in a designated second country or city. To set the second-time zone you simply use the quick-set, dual-function pusher on the case-band at 10 o’clock helpfully marked GMT. The dial also features a standard time-display at 1 o’clock, small seconds at 3 o’clock, sectorial power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock and finally at 5 o’clock, the other main attraction; the 25° inclined Tourbillon 24 Secondes. Try hard as you like, you won’t be able to stop staring at this black beauty.

The Greubel Forsey GMT Black – Caseback

On the back you will find a finely crafted ‘worldtime’ disc bearing the names of 24 cities, each representing one of the different global time zones. Aligning the relevant city with the local hour on the outer chapter ring – or inner ring for cities with summer time – sets the dial-side globe in the correct position. Completing the display-back is a gleaming sun, providing a visual reference for midday on the world-time disc. Again easy and intuitive to understand whilst at the same time being gorgeously attractive to look at.

Limited to just 22 pieces, the GMT Black will retail for US$565,000.

[...] The post SIHH 2015: The Greubel Forsey GMT Black Hands-On appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

As I am sure you will agree there are many watches that potentially meet the aforementioned requirements and so choosing one inevitably will come down to a matter of personal taste. After all, it is important, nay critical, that this watch reflects your personality and unique style. As such it is imperative that you don’t rush this particular decision. Instead take your time, do some research, maybe even road test several different models from multiple brands to really get a feel for what it is that you are really looking for.

Of course there is one brand that stands apart from all the rest in this particular field and that brand is Patek Philippe. Considered by many to be the greatest watch manufacturer in the world, a dress watch from Patek Philippe is arguably the most prestigious accessory a man can wear. That’s why today we are taking a closer look at modern-day classic from the brand that boasts a very impressive lineage; the Patek Philippe Ref 5059.

Patek Philippe 5059 – Dial

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5059

As the direct descendant of the highly collectible Patek Philippe Ref 5050 I think it’s fair to say that the Patek Philippe Ref 5059 channels three generations of greatness. After all, the lineage of Ref. 5050 – itself a gorgeous perpetual calendar – can be traced all the way back to one of Patek Philippe’s best known watches, the Ref 5016 tourbillon perpetual calendar automatic, both of which you may have guessed are now highly sought after by collectors (the latter of which will run you well over half a million dollars for a good example, assuming you can find one that is.) To fully appreciate the beauty of the Ref 5059 though I think it’s important to understand a little more about the timepieces that inspired it.

Featuring a perpetual calendar with retrograding date, tourbillon, and a minute repeating mechanism, the Ref 5016 was Patek Phillipe’s most complicated wristwatch until the release of Ref 5002, the Sky Moon Tourbillon. Thanks to its understated style however you would probably be hard-pressed to pick one out in a crowd unless you were a well-versed aficionado of the brand. The tourbillon for example is not visible on the dial side and the only indication that there is a minute repeater is the sliding pusher on the left-hand side of the case.

That same sense of balanced, understated style carried through to design of the Ref 5050, which was produced in the 1990s and featured a perpetual calendar, retrograde date display, leap year and phases of the moon. Once again all the complications were laid out in an attractive, easy-to-read manner striking that delicate balance between practicality and sophistication. Following in this same vein comes the Ref 5059.

The specific model we are looking at today was manufactured in 2000 and is presented in a 36mm x 12.8mm, three-part, 18k white gold Officer’s case (more on than in a minute). Admittedly it is a little on the small side – by modern day standards anyway – but the thickness more than makes up for this and it really does wear nicely on the wrist. As with the Ref 5050, the Patek Philippe Ref 5059 boasts several complications, including a perpetual calendar, retrograde date display, leap year and phases of the moon. All of which are laid out in the trademark style pioneered by the Ref 5016 and Ref 5050.

The porcelain white dial of the Patek Philippe Ref 5059 has something of a vintage feel to it, inspired in large part by its previously discussed heritage. Prominent roman numerals are responsible for indicating the hours, whilst the minutes and seconds tracked on the two smaller outer chapter rings. Unusually for a perpetual calendar it features a central sweep seconds hand. Three small apertures at 9 o’clock, 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock display the day, leap year and month respectively. The date meanwhile is shown on an inner chapter ring indicated via a retrograde hand that seamlessly flies back to its starting position at the end of each month. Finishing things off nicely at the bottom is the moon-phase display which adds just enough contrasting color to the dial to attract attention without seeming out of place.

Patek Philippe 5059 – Caseback

Beating inside is the Caliber 315/136, which has been stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal. This same movement was also used in the Ref 5050 however unlike that model the Patek Philippe Ref 5059 is presented in an Officer’s case (also known as hunter-style) which means it features a hinged caseback. Simply use your thumb to flip it open and you can appreciate the movement, complete with gold rotor in all its glory.

Best of all the Patek Philippe Ref 5059 is not quite as collectible at the Ref 5050 yet (the Ref 5016 is of course in a collecting category all of its own) and so it is still possible to find good examples for around the $40k – $60k mark. That being said the Ref 5059 is increasingly becoming a must-have for many collectors which means inevitably prices will go up, meaning this is not only a great dress watch, it could also be a great investment.

Patek Philippe 5059 – Wristshot

[...] The post Patek Philippe Ref. 5059 – Hands-On appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

The watchmaking and microtechnology sector currently employs nearly 56,000 people in Switzerland, a figure that has risen by 5.7% and has remained unmatched for over 35 years. Even though there has been a blip in the industry due to challenging market conditions in China and the Far East, the luxury watch industry is still generating plenty of work for the right individuals.

In fact, the last time the Swiss watch industry was as healthy as it is today is way back in the halcyon pre-crisis days of 1975. That’s the last time there were higher employment figures. The top three cantons for employment in the watchmaking industry are Neuchâtel (15,323), Berne (11,184) and Geneva (9,358). The watchmaking sector is also benefiting from increasingly more qualified staff in its workforce.

The DreamChrono Jobs Board will show the latest job offers from some of the leading names in the Swiss watch industry. Now we are actively encouraging leading employers to post their jobs with us.

As with all jobs in any industry, it helps if you know some basic facts about the business you want to work in before you apply for a job. However, in the case of the Swiss watch industry, this is not always easy, as watch brands are shy about releasing their figures, and prefer secrecy to disclosure.

But to give you a rough idea of the size of the Swiss watch industry, in 2012, Switzerland exported 29.2 million watches in 2012, which was a drop of 2.2% on the previous year. In the same period, 1.2 billion watches were manufactured worldwide over the same period. In fact Switzerland’s production figures are a drop in the ocean compared to that of China. China manufactures an average of 663 million watches per year, and is the world’s largest exporter of finished watches, followed by Hong Kong, which produced 354 million, with Switzerland some way behind in third place.

But when it comes to luxury watches, Switzerland is way out in front. Switzerland produces 95% of all watches sold at prices of over 1,000 Swiss francs. And the quality is certainly reflected in the price. A Swiss watch costs on average $739 dollars in comparison to just $3 dollars on average for watches manufactured in China.

Traditionally, December is the slowest month in the calendar for job hunting in the industry. January 2015 shows that watchmakers are still hesitant about hiring, with a 27% reduction on vacancies from the same time last year. But in the Swiss watch industry things can change quickly. A good showing at Baselworld, the watch industry’s largest show, which runs each year in March, can see things turn around almost overnight. A healthy order book from the event can see watchmakers start to earnestly seek out new workers, and the chill in the jobs market can suddenly become as warm as a sunny Basel afternoon.

Check in regularly on the DreamChrono Jobs Board and find the jobs that cover your specific skill sets, whether it be on the technical side of watchmaking, or in the equally important marketing and distribution side. Your future awaits.

[...] The post Find your dream job on the DreamChrono Jobs Board appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

To start of with I’m going to tell you what’s new at the ‘big boy’ booths. First up – Audemars Piguet and their new Concept watch that takes my vote for the ‘Most Awesome Watch’ award, which I just invented myself It features a tourbillon, a chronograph, and a minute repeater; with one of the loudest and beautiful chimes I’ve ever heard. It’s no secret that AP loves their complications as much as the more popular Royal Oaks and Offshores but with the peripheral rotor tourbillon presented earlier last year, and now a minute repeater they are taking it to a whole new level of high horology.

Audemars Piguet SIHH 2015 Concept Watch

Two more brands that really got to me were Montblanc and Jaeger-LeCoultre, especially with their higher end complications. While JLC presents a new version of the spherotourbillon with their twist on a moon phase, Montblanc comes up with their latest addition to the Villeret family – the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geospheres Vasco da Gama. Long name and an even longer explanation of the complications, but in short – there is a beautiful tourbillon at 12 o’clock with a 3D spiral made in a cylindrical shape, and a world time indication displayed by the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Only 18 pieces will ever be made, all in rose gold 47 mm cases with a 6-figure price tag.

Montblanc Tourbillon Cylindrique Geospheres Vasco da Gama

Of course there were more lower end novelties during SIHH 2015, but if you guys follow my posts you probably know I’m a sucker for all things complicated and watches out of your typical price range. Having said that here’s my favourite watch from SIHH with no high-end complications at all – it’s the Roger Dubuis Automatic Skeleton from their updated Excalibur collection. No fancy tourbillons or chronographs in this one, yet the look of it is so appealing and the finishing of the bridges so fine it’s hard not to fall in love with it if you are into big or skeletonized watches. The micro-rotor and the open balance wheel both add some dynamic to the piece and make the look complete.

Roger Dubuis Automatic Skeleton – SIHH 2015

Now to another one of the bigger brands exhibiting at the fair – Richard Mille has quite a unique novelty that everyone’s been talking about – it’s the RM19-02, otherwise known as the Tourbillon Fleur. Probably one of the most talked about watches this year – yet another one of Richard Mille’s complicated, exotic and bold time/art pieces that would cost you a fortune and have nothing alike in the whole world. The thing about this one is that apart from the running time in a small subdial and a diamond set case it has a tourbillon hidden in a flower sculpture that opens up every 5 minutes to reveal itself.

Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon Fleur

Another brand known for its artsy inventions presenting their new Tourbillon 24 Vision is Greubel Forsey. This young yet extremely credible and desirable brand among the biggest of collectors comes up with something extraordinary every year. This time they’ve created a new version of their most famous timepiece yet (the new black Titanium GMT) as well as revealed their latest novelty. It’s their simplest looking watch to date, as well as it is their least expensive one (somewhere around $325’000). However do not mistake it for a regular tourbillon three-hand. The dial is made of Palladium and if you turn the watch you’ll see why it’s really special. The tourbillon, inclined under 24 degrees is put so deep inside the watch that GF had to come up with a vertical asymmetry that looks like a bubble to keep it within the timepiece Surprisingly it sits quite comfortably on the wrist too.

Now before we get to the independent’s corner there’s one more watch I’d like to point out – it’s the Hublot Classic Fusion Calendar Moon phase. We usually see the big novelties from Hublot during Baselworld time, and of course I can’t wait to see what else they will surprise us with, but for the time being this is my new favourite model in the Classic Fusion line. A partially skeletonized annual calendar and moon phase fit this case perfectly, and unlike many other Hublot models that stand out from the design point of view this is actually something more technical, and that’s a good thing for the brand.

Hublot Classic Fusion Calendar Moon

Now to the independents corner – we have quite a few novelties that I personally was waiting for. First up – new HYT Skull. Before our favourite (and only) liquid time watchmaker presents it’s next revolutionary and entirely new model (H3) at Baselworld they’ve decided to have some fun with the round cased liquid hour display by creating an hour-seconds-power reserve watch with the liquid tube contouring a skull within the dial. Definitely not your every day watch (unless you’re Tony Stark) as you wouldn’t even be able to see the minutes, but then again – I don’t think one would buy a piece like this to monitor time, it’s more of a mechanical wonder on the wrist, and even when you know how it works you’d still question yourself if it really was made by human hands.

HYT Skull – SIHH 2015

Next up we have yet another unusual timepiece, but this one is from a renowned wrist instrument manufacturer – Breva. Their latest addition to the Genie family – the Genie 03 Speedmeter – is a real functioning speedometer for the wrist. All the wearer has to do is press on the pusher at 2 o’clock and see as the sub dial with the speed-reading lifts itself up from the case and reveals 3 little hemispherical cups that catch the air while you’re driving, cycling or moving with any other means of transportation at the speed of 20-200 km/h. Your current speed will instantly be displayed on the sub-dial with the small red hand, and it’s hard to believe that it’s an actual mechanical instrument that fits in a wristwatch. Speaking of the watch itself this is also the first time when Breva uses its own movement. Left side of the dial is all about time and I love the skeletonized barrel and the open balance wheel bring more life into the machine.

Breva Genie 03 Speedmeter

Some more independents showcased their novelties, such as the Urwerk UR110 Eastwood (that I have talked about in the previous article), De Bethune with their new sporty DB28GS, MB&F and a table clock they’ve displayed at the M.A.D Gallery, made by Frank Buchwald, or MCT and their new S200 with a touch of yellow. Overall – many novelties this year, no one is being lazy, and it’s nice to see more traditional brands get more creative while the independent watchmakers improve their technical features and quality. Hope you guys enjoyed the article and will stay tuned for more watch reviews coming soon.

[...] The post SIHH 2015 Recap and Novelties appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

Calibre de Cartier

Debuted in 2009, CdC (Calibre de Cartier) introduced new base for Cartier’s further mechanical developments – caliber 1904. It is significantly more difficult to create a reliable, robust and efficient mechanical movement that could be mass produced in the future, than to make an Haute Horlogerie masterpiece – and this is where the 1904 shines. While many other companies still stick to off-the-shelf movements, Cartier ventured into real “in-house” territory, and did it with style. 1904 is quite thin, automatically wound caliber with 50h of power reserve, 4Hz balance wheel, date and a stop-second. Set of basic but good looking decorations includes Geneva stripes on the bridges and winding mass as well as some perlage. As usual, time will determine if it actually is a reliable and long-lasting engine, I however had no problems with it. It works and sets easily, keeps good time and presents itself nice through the sapphire back.

Calibre de Cartier – Caseback

As I wrote, it is a basic movement, so we can expect many additions through the years. One of them – a chronograph – came out in 2012. And as much as I liked the 1904, thing that drew me to Calibre de Cartier in the first place was the design.

If you know Cartier’s watch-work you are well familiar with the specific style of the brand – bold Arabic numerals, sapphire cabochons in the crown etc. For the Calibre Cartier decided to created a very masculine, quite bold and very attractive package. Stainless steel case (comes also in steel-gold and full gold versions) measures 42mm in diameter and 13mm in thickness. It comes with set of bold and highly curved lugs, heptagonal crown with blue cabochon, protected by screw-in crown guards, sapphire back and sapphire, domed front glass, set inside a polished-brushed bezel rim.

Calibre de Cartier – Wristshot

Dial comes in two options for the steel case – sporty black and more elegant white. Both are adorned with outer minute ring, set of Arabic indices in the upper half (with bold XII at the top), open date window at 3 o’clock, small seconds sub-dial at 6 and a pair of central hands. The composition is monochromatic black&white, with some luminova to glow in the dark. I do like the design a lot – it has plenty of character and boldness to it, except maybe an open window for the date disk, which just isn’t my cup of tea. I see some automotive spirit in the design (especially in the case shape) and the quality is just superb.

A lot of attention was given to the finishing of the whole thing, from polished edges of the crown guards, through the different angles of the case, all the way up to the gilouche dial. In an entry-level piece it makes an impression for sure.

You can buy yourself the Calibre on either steel bracelet (nice, massive and well finished) or with a black alligator leather strap, smoothly integrated with the case. While the strap’s overall quality is good, the issue lies with the clasp. The fold-over buckle is too big, snaps very tightly and, because there are no safety buttons, you simply have to rip it off in order to open. It also secures the strap in a very bizarre way, where you have to cross the strap over the loop and then fold it back. Strange, and almost as if Cartier focused so much on the case and the movement, that the strap passed by unnoticed.

I would rate high the overall pleasure of wearing the Calibre de Cartier. Some might find its strongly bended lugs a bit to profiled and the clasp is terrible, but all in all I enjoyed the company a lot. For 42mm the piece wears a bit bigger than it is, and for sure it is more of a casual (even sporty) than an elegant watch. Thanks to very “Cartier” design it looks like nothing else on the market, and if you prefer you watch to have more sport in it – get the Diver version – very similar to the basic Calibre, but with ceramic bezel and rubber strap.

The best conclusion I can think of for this review is that if not already, you should pay more attention to Cartier’s watchmaking side. If a brand can offer products ranging from the basic mechanical piece (the Calibre) all the way up to High Complications and concept pieces (like the ID Two, using Calibre case made of sapphire) it deserves respect. Especially, if that products represent true value and quality. Calibre de Cartier from this text (steel, leather) costs around 7.500USD and you have to add another 650USD for the bracelet.

Credit © Photo: Mateusz Pawelski

[...] The post Cartier – Calibre de Cartier Hands-On review appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

There has been much discussion about the origins of the first Navitimers and a lot of mystery surrounds them since Breitlings records are deficient and nobody seems to know for certain the full story, there is a lot of disagreement by specialists on all the subtle details. What is for sure is that after the achievement of the Chronomat, the world’s first slide rule chronograph unveiled in the early 1940’s, Breitling made a second slide rule chronograph and according to Breitling launched it somewhere between 1952 and 1954.

Vintage Breitling Chronomat

The Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) logo can be seen on the dial of these first watches and it is believed they all had this logo. Some experts believe Breitling designed the watch and then AOPA asked for their logo to be placed on the dial while others think the watch was specifically designed for members of AOPA.

With much of Breitling’s own early records having been lost the true facts aren’t currently known but may be hidden somewhere in the records of AOPA. What can be roughly stated is that the Navitimer with 3 Subdials was produced in four editions.

Breitling Navitimer – The 1st Edition

According to Breitling the first Navitimers were produced in 1952, though some people feel it wasnt until 1954 that they first became available. The seed for the Breitling Navitimer was formed when Breitling & AOPA decided to create a watch with a built-in chronograph and navigation computer (sliderule). The Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association consequently decided to make it their official watch resulting in the wing logo appeared on the dial.

Breitling Navitimer (1952)

In these first models the renowned Valjoux 72 movement was used during 1954, and the first half of 1955, although at this stage no reference number was printed on the back. Not until 1955 did it officially become reference number 806.

The Valjoux 72 Navitimer has become a highly prized watch for Navitimer collectors all over the world due to the fact that nobody knows for certain how many of these Navitimers were produced with the Valjoux 72 movement during the 1954-55 period.

This model was produced with a black dial and subdials and a ‘beads of rice’ bezel throughout the 1950’s, only the Breitling logo ‘B’ and the name itself were engraved on the case back. Sometime in 1955 the movement was replaced with the Venus 178.

It seems that as early as 1959 the all-black dials were replaced with silver ones, and new designs for the hands and bezel started to appear from around about 1960. There were multiple variations of the silver dial version just as there had been of the black one.

Breitling Navitimer – 2nd Edition

By 1960 the Navitimer had become a great success, and its design was altered with the change in dial from black to white, redesigned hands also the AOPA logo on the dial was replaced with the official Breitling Navitimer logo, a design showing two aircrafts flying in close formation. 1959 to 60 is considered to be a transitionary period for the Navitimer resulting in the release of models combining both new and old features.

Breitling Navitimer from 1960

Nevertheless Breitling still continued to produce Navitimers the AOPA logo on the dial for AOPA. During this time the sliderulebezel was also remodelled a couple of times. Incidentally, in order for the sliderule to be completely legible its crucial that the Navitimer has a curved type of crystal, this is also considered to give the watch a nicer appearance overall.

Although remaining the same reference number – 806 Navitimers with larger subdials started to appear by the mid 60’s. The movement remained the Venus 178 but a limited number of Navitimers with Valjoux 7736 movements were released from 1967 at the same time, and this model (reference no. 806-36) as well as large subdials had the Breitling doublewing on its dial. It has been speculated that the reason for this was that the success of the Navitimer caused Breitling to run out of Venus 178 movements.

Breitling Navitimer – 3rd Edition

In 1961 , Scott Carpenter, one of the original astronauts in the Mercury space program, approached Breitling with the idea for a watch featuring a 24 hour dial instead of the normal 12 one. This feature being particularly useful due to the lack of day and night during space travel so it could be used to distinguish between midday and midnight. Before Carpenter could use it though it had to pass the rigorous NASA testing to make sure it was suitable for space travel. In May of 1962 astronaut Scott Carpenter went into space on the Aurora 7 wearing a Navitimer that featured a 24 hour indication.

Scott Carpenter inside Aurora 7

During the 1960’s it was produced with both AOPA’s logo and Breitling’s Doublewing logo on the dial. This model with the 24 hours indication was called the “Navitimer Cosmonaute” and was assigned reference number “809”. Although confusion has arisen with this model since inexplicably the name “Cosmonaute” is nowhere to be found on many reference 809 Navitimers. To clarify it, while all the reference 806’s are considered Navitimers, 809’s are all considered to be Cosmonautes.

Similarly as with the 806 probably due to a shortage of movements Breitling also made a small number of Cosmonautes using a modified Valjoux 7736.

Breitling Navitimer – 4th Edition

Many changes were made to the Navitimer between 1971 and 1974, internally the highly regarded Venus 178 movement was replaced with a Valjoux 7740, whilst on the outside the registers grew to their largest size. Many watch connoisseurs feel that after these changes it was no longer a genuine Navitimer, although a lot of people find it more attractive than the genuine 806 Navitimer due to the larger registers.

Breitling Navitimer Chrono-matic (1970)

Breitling Navitimer – Conclusion

Breitlings Navitimer is unlikely to be surpassed as their most famous watch, and despite various modifications over the years its remained very similar in design to the original.

While most people will have no use for the slide rule function and since cockpits went digital its application for pilots declined. It can still be of use to pilots though as they do still need to understand how to make the type of analogue flight calculations that the Navitimer provides though in case of cockpit electronics failure.

As to current models, for the first time In 2012 Breitling released the Navitimer with an in-house Breitling B01 movement and in 2014 an extra large 46mm version was released which featured an exhibition case back to view the Calibre 01 movement. All modern Navitimers are COSC certified and offer the opportunity to own a legendary watch.

[...] The post Legendary Watches: The Breitling Navitimer appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

However before we get to the wish list and start guessing what it is that we can expect from the brands this year let’s rewind it back to the last SIHH and take a look at some of my personal favorites.

One of the coolest brands to showcase last year was Roger Dubuis. Before SIHH 2014 they’ve come up with some novelties but it was really last year that they’ve re-imagined the brand, gave it a new twist and really got the attention of the audience by their teaser videos counting down to SIHH, their beautiful booth, and of course, the product itself – I’m talking about an entirely new collection of the Hommage pieces. This year we are expecting them to explore their skeletonized watches, a subject they have mastered over the years. Really looking forward to the new Astral Skeleton.

Roger Dubuis Hommage Collection – Skeleton Watch

Another big brand that has shined last year is Audemars Piguet, we’ve seen many re-done models from them, but apart from them a new version of the Tourbillon Chronograph during last SIHH and an entirely new Tourbillon Chrono with a peripheral rotor during Watches & Wonders. This year the brand is going to surprise us with a completely new Concept RD1; a tourbillon chronograph and what’s believed to be the loudest minute repeater ever made! Stay tuned for the photos and reviews of this one after the fair

Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Chronograph (SIHH 2014)

Richard Mille did a good job of implementing an entirely new material into their line of watches, and the most memorable of all would probably be their NTPT Carbon RM35-01 – the new ‘baby Nadal’ on steroids! Later on last year they’ve also presented the final version of the RM56, their full sapphire tourbillon piece worth well over a million dollars. I can’t imagine what they are going to surprise us with this time but hopefully it’s a new model.

Richard Mille RM56

Now if we get to the independents there’s a lot more to discuss. De Bethune came out with 2 major novelties last year, the DB28 digitale and the Dream Watch 5 (that I’m not so sure of). This year they’re going back to the roots and presenting a DB28GS (Grand Sport), water resistant to 100 m, old-fashioned De Bethune on a rubber strap. If you ask me, I prefer their less industrial models, but there will sure be many long time fans of the brand who would instantly fall in love with it.

De Bethune DB28 Digitale

2 More brands that I didn’t really expect any novelties from, but who managed to pull them off are Urwerk and Breva. Reason why I say I didn’t expect the novelties is because both of those brands tend to pull out the big guns during Baselworld… And yet here we are with a new UR110 Eastwood from Urwerk, made with a wooden case and a Timothy Everest tweed strap, and a Breva Genie 03, first ever watch to feature a mechanical speedometer! Also a lot more affordable than the last two models (retailing at CHF48’000).

Now there are many more brands that are going to be presenting this year, such as IWC, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and others. Of course I’m hoping for a crazy piece from GF, a dramatical booth and an interesting twist on an existing collection from IWC, something maybe a bit more contemporary from VC, and as usual, something technical from JLC and A. Lange & Sohne!

Hope to see many of you at the fair and stay tuned for a detailed review of the novelties after the exhibition!

[...] The post SIHH 2015 – Recap of last year and what to wish for in this one appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

Now anyone who knows me will tell you that despite being originally from Australia I am, surprisingly enough, not that much of a ‘beach guy’. Sure I like being by the water, sand in your toes, maybe the occasional dip beneath the waves, that sort of thing but I am certainly not a surfer and even less of a diver. Of course that doesn’t necessarily stop me from wanting to look the part, which is why I took a very colourful companion on the trip with me; the Clerc Genève Hydroscaph Chronograph.

Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph

Clerc Genève?

If the name Clerc Genève doesn’t ring any bells don’t worry, I am sure even some of the hard-core dive watch enthusiasts amongst us are probably getting ready to type it into Google right now. Let me save you the trouble though and give you a bit of background on the brand here first before I get into looking at the Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph.

As you probably guessed from the second part of the name Clerc is a Swiss watch company and a relatively small one at that. What it lacks in size though it makes up for with innovative designs that incorporate cutting technology tempered by learnings from the brand’s rich history, which spans some 140 years.

Founded in 1874 and based in Geneva, Switzerland, the company has undergone many changes over the years. What has remained constant throughout though is the desire to create timepieces that are unique, highly functional and of course innovative. The results haven’t always been pretty (google “Clerc Odyssey Lady Skeleton” for an example of what I mean) however each piece has, in its own way, contributed to the brand’s rich and inventive heritage which in turn guides future designs.

These days the company is helmed by Gérald Clerc, a direct descendant of the original founders and a man bent on keeping alive the family passion for exceptional horology that has been handed down from one generation to the next. Although clearly proud of the family heritage he has inherited Clerc’s focus is firmly on the future, envisioning his timepieces accompanying adventurers on their journeys to far-away places like space or the deepest parts of our oceans. He doesn’t just want to make watches; he wants to invent them.

At present the company only offers two models, both of which are dive watches; the Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph which we are looking at today and the Hydroscaph H1. It’s an interesting approach to be sure and one that has resulted in some seriously over-engineered watches that can only be fully appreciated when you understand just how much work has gone into making each one. And while the space travel part may still be a while away yet, the deep ocean exploration is very much a reality, which brings us back to the Hydroscaph Chronograph; a watch that looks like it could survive just about anywhere on the planet.

The Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph

Before I go into too much detail I should probably start out by saying the Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph is not your typical every day watch. You don’t wear this bad boy with a suit to the office or for leisurely Sunday golf games with your chums. No, this is a watch designed for adventure and exploration and besides, it’s simply too big and chunky to be suitable for day-to-day wear (in my opinion at least.) Now of course I realize the irony of that last statement when you consider that I chose to wear the Hydroscaph Chronograph on my adventure-free, super relaxed island escape but you have to remember that the whole point was that I trying to give the impression that I was being a lot more active and adventurous than I perhaps was.

Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph – Wristshot

As I mentioned before Clerc watches are seriously over-engineered and the Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph is no exception. Available in three different finishes: high-density steel, black DLC (diamond-like carbon), and 18K rose gold/black DLC steel, the multi-layered case is comprised of some 103 individual pieces and is wonderfully fun to play with. The flipside to this of course is that it sits a little high on the wrist and the extra weight does take some getting used to but again you have to keep in mind that this watch has been designed to be a functional tool watch first and foremost.

Guaranteed water resistant to a depth of 500m (about 1,640 feet) the Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph is equipped with the brand’s signature octagonal-shaped rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time when diving. A retractable flap on a separate dedicated crown at 10 o’clock allows you to turn the bezel to set the appropriate marker. Returning the flap to its initial position securely locks the bezel, thus avoiding any risk of accidental deregulation while diving.

In addition to showing the hours, minutes and seconds the dial also features a central chronograph display tracking elapsed seconds and minutes on an outside chapter ring, as well a 24-hour day/night indicator on the sub-dial at 9 o’clock and the date in a small window at 6 o’clock. Providing the power is the Clerc C608 self-winding movement, a small part of which is visible through the small sapphire window on the caseback.

Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph – Caseback

All in all I enjoyed my time with the Hydroscaph Chronograph. It did take a little getting used to at first but I loved the feeling of wearing something so well made on my wrist plus I didn’t even give it a second thought when I went swimming at the beach or hiking in Puerto Rico’s rainforests, I just knew it would be up to the challenge. The watch is $10,650 – the entire range of the central chronos goes from $9350 to $17,000 (that’s with 18K gold and black DLC on black hornback strap).

Limited to 500 examples in each of the aforementioned finishes you can find out more information about the Hydroscaph Chronograph at the official Clerc website here.

[...] The post Clerc Hydroscaph Chronograph Hands-On appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

The Garrick Shaftesbury SM301 is an impressive debut indeed. Immediately it is apparent that it has been designed and manufactured with the discerning watch collector in mind; everywhere little details combine to create a beautifully finished timepiece with its sights firmly fixed on the luxury sector. As we will learn in the next few minutes, at Garrick of London no effort has been spared in the pursuit of perfection.

Garrick Shaftesbury SM301

This first Garrick Shaftesbury is presented in an elegant round polished stainless steel case measuring 42mm across. Viewed side-on, its flank is tall and straight, curving only at the height of the bezel. The crown has a compressed segmented ‘onion’ profile, and as well as being a delightful detail, its shape and size makes for ease of use for winding or setting the time.

Beneath a sapphire crystal, the dial options include a classical fired enamel base, available in either white or black and pure save for the Garrick name. Fixed proud upon the dial two brushed steel chapter rings – large for the principal hours and minute references, smaller for the seconds at the 6 o’clock – have been attached by short steel pillars secured in place by oxidised blued steel screws. The minutes and seconds indices have been painstakingly milled right through the steel of the chapter rings, giving a captivating 3-dimensional depth to the face of the watch. The Shaftesbury’s elegant leaf shaped steel hands are brushed and can be blued if desired. An in-house feature, each dial is machined and finished by hand from a brass plate before being engraved for effect with a series of gentle ripple-like grooves around the dial rim, then undergoing the hand enamelling and firing process.

Garrick Shaftesbury SM301

As an alternative to the luxuriant presence of an enamel dial, Garrick also offers the option of ‘simple’ paint on the brass, or even an aluminium dial, which can be anodised in a variety of colours, revealing something of a playful side to the Company.

This range of options also displays a canny resourcefulness from the young company too, as Garrick can entertain offers from individuals or even corporate clients who would like to commission details, including the choice of dial options and colours as well as personalisation in the form of the addition of a logo or name on the dial. It does not harm for a new brand when it has an open and flexible approach so that it can fulfil orders for the unusual as it establishes itself.

A sapphire exhibition caseback provides a widescreen vista of the lovingly hand detailed movement within, thanks to the thin rimmed rear bezel which barely encroaches, giving up an unobstructed view beneath an expanse of crystal.

Garrick Shaftesbury SM301 – Caseback

Garrick make no secret about the NOS Swiss made Unitas 6498 hand-winding base movement within, but it has been breathed on heavily in London with refined bevel-edged in-house open bridges, blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration. However it is the Shaftesbury’s free sprung balance which underlines the company’s intent to innovate. The most intricate and delicate element of the watch movement, it is also one of the most challenging aspects to create for a watchmaker, and with the sensitivity required for the free sprung balance, getting it right was a painstakingly precise process, taking months in its development.

Making use of vintage watchmaker’s tools and techniques in a purpose built sterile, dust-free facility, Garrick have put much focus into creating or finishing as many of the components as possible by hand, in-house. For what cannot be done in their workshop, such as the cases, owner David Brailsford has sourced from local specialists.

What Garrick represents is the realisation of a dream by its founder and owner David Brailsford. A steely determination and unflinching ‘can do’ attitude has seen the Englishman achieve success in his numerous business concerns, and with a consuming penchant for a watchmaking heritage in long-ago London which, it is worth remembering, in the 17th and 18th Centuries was the inventive hub of horology, and as important to its foundations as anywhere else in the world, his Garrick watch company sets out to embody the mantle of its forebears. Mention English watchmaking in modern times and apart from the legendary horologic tour de force who was the late great George Daniels, only a very few names spring to mind, but think Arnold, Mudge, Harrisson, Graham and Tompion and this legacy of English watchmaking becomes more clear.

With influences such as these great historic figures to draw from, and a philosophy which stems from a passion for traditional watchmaking, Garrick are comfortable in their own skin, their approach one of dedication, precision and a lot of patience.

One might imagine that the intensive hands-on processes which goes into the production of Garrick’s Shaftesbury watch would doubtless warrant a hefty price tag, but surprisingly this is not the case, as another tenet of the brand’s strategy aims to keep pricing for this first edition to just £3,995 (c.€5,000). It is a lot of watch for the outlay and represents excellent value to the collector.

It has taken time for the new watch company to get to this point, but the Garrick Shaftesbury shows that they’ve arrived in quite some style. For further information this link will take you over to the Garrick website.

[...] The post Garrick of London and the new Garrick Shaftesbury SM301 Watch appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

These supercars are not just sources of great envy though, they can also be sources of great inspiration, which brings us to today’s timepiece; the Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Super Sport. No prizes for guessing which car in the above list was the catalyst for this miniature mechanical beauty, if the name didn’t already give it away, the unique case design certainly would. Like the car itself this is not a watch for the faint hearted.

Parmigiani x Bugatti

If you’re not already familiar with the Parmigiani name – and I’m sure a few of you won’t be – check out this article I wrote a few weeks ago, which details a bit of the history of the brand and why you should be paying them some attention. Although the company has produced several notable timepieces in its relatively short history none have achieved quite the same level of fame as the exceptional Bugatti series, and with good reason.

Created in direct collaboration with the supercar maker, Parmigiani’s Bugatti series is quite unlike anything else on offer in the brand’s line-up. In fact the Bugatti series is quite unlike anything else on offer period. The partnership between the two brands began back in 2004, born from a shared love for excellence without compromise.

To celebrate Parmigiani created the incredible Bugatti Type 370 featuring a cylindrical or drum-shaped case complete with exposed three-dimensional movement and vertical dial for easy reading whilst driving. The series proved to be incredibly popular with collectors and the brand continued to release new variants of the Bugatti Type 370. In fact the Type 370 Mythe was unveiled just last year to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the successful partnership.

For me though it wasn’t until 2010, when Parmigiani introduced the first Bugatti Super Sport in white gold at Pebble Beach (alongside the launch of the actual car itself), that things really started getting interesting. Sure, the Bugatti Type 370 is still exceptionally cool, not to mention extremely impressive from a technical standpoint but it still lacks the svelte aerodynamic feel of the supercars it is paying tribute to. The Super Sport changes all of that.

The Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport

Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport

The first thing you notice about the Super Sport, before you even pick it up, is the highly unusual design of the case. It’s smooth and streamlined and yet at the same time bold and aggressive, commanding attention wherever it goes without so much as lifting a finger. Much like the car itself, this is a timepiece that instantly elicits envious stares from all those who see it. They admire the confidence of the wearer and yet at the same time secretly wish it was them instead. It sounds strange I know but the Super Sport – in both watch and car form – just seems to have that effect on people.

The black opaline dial itself is a fairly simple affair, displaying the hours and minutes only. The central area of the dial is open-worked, creating a visually impressive backdrop highlighted by the hour wheel which encourages the wearer to look a little closer than they perhaps otherwise would. Like the Bugatti Type 370, the dial is vertical to ensure you don’t need to take your hands off the wheel when driving to view the time; rather you just glance over at your wrist.

My favourite view of the Bugatti Super Sport however has to be from the side. You could be forgiven for thinking that the sleek, sloping lines of the case have been taken from the car the watch is named for however this is not actually the case. Rather it is one of the brand’s own notable designs – the tear-shaped lugs that appear on the Tonda and Kalpa models – that have served as the inspiration here. Beautifully elongated they form two perfect tear drops on either side of the case, a style which is replicated by the two smaller lugs at the front of the watch which attach one end of the Hermes leather strap (the other end is seamlessly integrated into the end of the case.)

Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport – Sideview

On the inside is the manually-wound calibre Parmigiani 372, a wonderfully complex movement comprised of some 333 components, many of which can be admired through the multiple sapphire glass surfaces that adorn the case (there are 6 in total in case you were wondering). As you would expect from a movement this exposed the level of finishing is really sublime; Cotes de Geneve finishing on bridges, sandblasted mainplate, hand drawn bevels, the list goes on. Also visible on the back side of the watch is the power reserve indicator, which keeps track of the impressive 10-day power supply made possible by twin barrels. Below that the balance wheel, escapement and bridge-plates form arc-like formation, supposedly emulating the Bugatti logo.

Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport – Caseback

On the wrist the rose gold case is extremely comfortable, just don’t expect to be able to hide the Bugatti Super Sport away inconspicuously under your jacket sleeve. But then again, why would you want to? Like the car itself you don’t buy this type of watch if you don’t want the attention that comes with it…

Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport – Wristshot

[...] The post Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Super Sport Hands-On appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

As one whose personal interest in watches concerns military and sport pieces, with only passing attention paid to dress watches or complications and none whatsoever for bling, my choice among all the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking offerings, due for unveiling next month at SIHH, is atypical. Precious metals, skeletonising – these are not details that float my boat. But, damn, I’ve fallen hard for the Cartier Crash Skeleton.

Cartier Crash Skeleton

A little history: the Cartier Crash Watch is described on Cartier’s site with this succinct paragraph: “Created in 1967 in the heart of Swinging London, the Crash watch captures the incredible energy of the city at that time. With its asymmetrical dial, it revolutionised the aesthetic codes of watchmaking history. Always released in very limited series, this legendary piece carries the prestige of rarity.”

That may not be enough whet your whistle, so it’s worth recounting an oft-told tale, much of which is deemed apocryphal, but which has entered watch lore. It’s a story you couldn’t make up.

When the first Crash watches were released by Cartier of London, the territories were independent, London operating autonomously from Cartier Paris and Cartier New York. While one would love to believe that the watch was inspired by Salvador Dalí’s sublime 1931 masterpiece, The Persistence of Memory, it is more likely that the watch is more truly a product of its time and location … and a tragic event.

1960s London was the centre of the popular culture universe, thanks in no small part to the Beatles and the other “British Invasion” rock bands, including the Kinks, the Who, the Rolling Stones and countless others. Interwoven with the British conquest of rock music were peripheral and integral elements such as Carnaby Street for its fashions, the work of photographer David Bailey, who immortalised the scene, films like Blow Up and cars such as the E-Type Jaguar. And let’s not forget James Bond.

Cartier Crash Skeleton – Caseback

According to the mythology, one of Cartier London’s executives was involved in a fatal car crash. His watch, a Cartier Bagnoire Alongée, was consumed by the flames, melting into the abstract shape so reminiscent of Dalí’s work. It was this remnant from the ruins that inspired Cartier to reproduce a new watch in its post-inferno form as a tribute to their late employee, named because it was the result of the impact.

Now insanely collectible, the original 18k gold manual-wind Crash measures 39x19mm. Attesting to its origins, the word “London” appears on the dial and caseback. Inside was an oval, 17-jewel movement produced for Cartier by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Its dial was white with Roman numerals, the time indicted by blued steel hands, with the company’s signature cabochon in the winding crown. It looked exactly like what would happen to a Cartier watch if it survived a blaze.

Re-released periodically in limited editions, the Crash has appeared in various metals, with bracelets or straps, clad in diamonds – there’s even a platinum version with a burgundy dial from 2002. But the new one, by virtue of its full skeleton status and an all-new movement in the same shape as the case, stopped me dead in my tracks, enough to make me want to revise my attitude toward watches that aren’t, well, round and made of steel.

At SIHH, Cartier will formally unveil the Cartier Crash Skeleton Watch, containing the shaped Calibre 9618 MC manual wind movement. Its skeletonised bridges cleverly form the Roman numerals, their shapes also deformed to match the Crash’s melting look. The case – secure against water to 30m – is made of 950/1000 platinum, its dimensions a unisex-friendly 28.15×45.32mm with a thickness of 9.62mm, and – as befits a full skeleton – a sapphire case back.

Cartier Crash Skeleton – Calibre 9618 MC Movement

Naturally, the crown, also in 950/1000 platinum, is set with a blue cabochon sapphire, matching the company’s other signature feature: blued-steel, sword-shaped hands. Cartier completes the look with a grey alligator skin strap, that attaches with a double adjustable folding clasp in 18k white gold.

When I tried it on, I fell in love with the Cartier Crash Skeleton. The only thing that could keep me from wearing it is the caution that every watch brand offers to customers about full “see-through” skeletons: they look dreadful on hairy wrists…

[...] The post Pre-SIHH 2015: Cartier Crash Skeleton appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

The flip side to this popularity of course is that the luxury watch market is brimming – to the point of saturation – with tourbillon-equipped timepieces. Some, like the descriptively named Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon Escapement, have made the tourbillon (or in this case tourbillons) the focal point of their timepieces. Others meanwhile hide them away – think De Bethune’s gorgeous DB25 LT Tourbillon – reserving the privilege of appreciating their beauty for their owners alone. Regardless of your preference however one thing is for sure, there are a lot of tourbillon timepieces out there.

This is not a bad thing of course, in fact depending your perspective it can be seen as rather a good thing but if there is one thing watch collector’s love, it’s a bit of variety. Enter the Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback, a wonderfully complicated timepiece from Blancpain’s exclusive Le Brassus collection.

Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback

At first glance you could be forgiven for thinking this is just another tourbillon-equipped timepiece, albeit a very beautiful one. Closer inspection however reveals that this is not actually the case at all. Rather, as the name suggests, this particular watch is equipped with a carefully constructed, superbly finished Carrousel escapement, which is on full display just above 6 o’clock. This of course begs the question; just what exactly is a Carrousel escapement?

The Carrousel Escapement

At the superficial level the Carrousel style escapement is remarkably similar to the Tourbillon. As we know the balance wheel and escapement, the regulating organs of a watch, are influenced by gravity when they are positioned vertically. The role of a Tourbillon or a Carrousel is to counteract and neutralise these effects of deceleration and acceleration of the balance wheel caused by the gravitational attraction of the Earth, by rotating the balance wheel and escapement so that they pass through all vertical positions in succession, cancelling out these inaccuracies.

A Tourbillon achieves this feat by housing the balance wheel and escapement inside of a rotating carriage; a carrousel, in contrast, consists of a platform on which the balance wheel and its bridge go round like a wooden horse on a merry-go-round, hence the reason for its name. The distinction between these two devices lies in their construction. Whereas the tourbillon is linked to the barrel by one gear train, the carrousel has two: the first supplies the energy required to drive the escapement; while the second controls the rotation speed of the carriage.

The relative effectiveness of either system has been the subject of some dispute for many years now however when you’re talking about spending this sort of money accuracy is clearly not your top priority (otherwise you’d just buy a cheap quartz watch and use the change to get yourself another Porsche.) No, what we are talking about here is mechanical mastery coupled with aesthetic beauty, which brings us to the Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback.

The Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback

The first thing you will probably notice about the Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback is its size. Presented in a 45mm x 17.88mm round case crafted from 18k red gold the piece certainly makes its presence felt on the wrist. Given the complexity of the movement housed inside however this is more than understandable. The chapter ring is made from grand feu white enamel in classic Blancpain style, with the distinctive roman numerals also reminiscent of the brand’s popular Villeret collection. What really drew me in though was the stunning view of the open-worked movement visible in the centre of the dial, complete with the eye-catching 1-minute flying carrousel just above 6 o’clock. It doesn’t ‘whir’ quite like a tourbillon but is still somehow every bit as mesmerizing.

Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback – Caseback

Hours and minutes are indicated via the two central hands in gold, whilst a central seconds hand performs the timing function for the flyback chronograph. For those of you not familiar with the concept of a flyback chronograph this basically means that it is possible to instantaneously restart a time measurement while a first measurement is in progress, in this case simply by pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock when the chronograph has already been activated. Now, at first glance it would seem there is no benefit to having a flyback chronograph on a watch that doesn’t have any sub-dials for tracking elapsed time however look a little closer and you will notice that there is an additional red-tipped gold hand tracks that tracks the elapsed minutes on a 30 minute counter at the center of the dial.

As you’ve probably guessed by now incorporating a flyback chronograph complication, minute repeater complication and a carrousel escapement all in the same timepiece is no mean feat. In fact according to the brand this is the first time it’s ever been done. This is not entirely surprising as Blancpain is the only high-end watchmaker – that I’m aware of, at least – that is actively using carrousel escapements in its timepieces since bringing them back from the dead in 2008 with the launch of the world’s first flying carrousel.

To make it all possible Blancpain developed the self-winding Calibre 2358, which offers a healthy 65 hours of power when fully charged. This fully secured movement (meaning you can safely move the hands forwards or backwards without fear of damaging the movement) is comprised of some 543 components, including cathedral gongs for the minute repeater (which sounds heavenly by the way.) Visible through the sapphire case back, the beautifully finished movement features bridges and mainplate in matching 18-carat gold.

Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback – Wristshot

Finishing the look is an alligator leather strap in chocolate brown. And the price? A cool US$449,600.

[...] The post Blancpain Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback Hands-On appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Aluminium – Four Shades Make a Statement

Earlier this year Hamilton introduced solid aluminium watch cases to their portfolio for the first time, producing four new subtle shades of their Khaki Pilot Pioneer model, in khaki green, sand, black and navy.

The aluminium used to create these watch cases has been treated so that it will be durable, and dents will not be a problem for even the most clumsy wearer. This material also promises to wear super-light on the wrist, and it’s colour absorbing properties mean that aluminium receives these new tones better than steel – a quality which Hamilton have put to good use with a varied spectrum of shades with varying degrees of intensity.

Khaki Pilot Pioneer Aviation

These models take their design cues from pieces designed in the 1970’s for the British Air Force, so naturally the case overspills to a broad bezel in keeping with watch styling at that time. Each model features an asymmetrical case which measures 41mm across and each is powered by the Hamilton H-10 calibre with 80 hours of power reserve. The crown at the 4 o’clock position provides winding and setting functions while the other at the 2 o’clock turns the internal flange which features a 60-minute countdown timing scale. Uncluttered dials enhance the utilitarian characteristics of these pieces and their distinctive colours which carry through from the dials to the cases and the straps make quite a statement. All four models come presented on matching nylon NATO straps and are priced at $1,145.

Hamilton RailRoad Auto Chrono and RailRoad Small Seconds – On the Right Tracks

Two new RailRoad models assert Hamilton’s historical links with transport, and just like the precision timekeepers which railway employees would reach for in order to keep the network running on time, these models feature rounded cases which replicate the pebble-like profile of pocketwatches.

The Hamilton RailRoad Auto Chrono comes in two new editions, each with neatly arranged dial layouts, with counters to the centre and left of the dial and with a tachymetre scale which spirals to gently overlap them. The black dial edition has the contrast of a rich hazelnut tachymetre scale and the grey dial option is paired with blue. Each is powered by Hamilton’s H-21 self-winding movement.

Hamilton RailRoad Auto Chronograph

The Hamilton RailRoad Small Seconds models offer precision and an uncluttered dial arrangement. Just like the Auto Chrono models, two choices are offered – black dial with hazelnut or grey dial with blue accents. The quirky 8 o’clock position of the small seconds makes it the main focal point on the dials of these models, as if to emphasise the importance of precision timekeeping on the railroads where every second counts and must be accounted for. The Hamilton RailRoad Small Seconds models gain power from the Hamilton H-22 calibre.

Hamilton RailRoad Small Seconds

The new RailRoad Auto Chrono and Small Seconds models feature 42mm stainless steel cases and come presented on black leather straps which have stitching to match the dial accents, or on stainless steel bracelets. Prices range from €995 Euros to €2045 Euros.

Hamilton Collection 2014 – Hamilton Khaki Takeoff Auto

Finally, something unusual. It is no surprise that Hamilton are proud of their associations with aviation but their new Khaki Takeoff Auto Chrono Limited Edition is not simply a dashboard-inspired timekeeper, it doubles up as a real and usable timing instrument for your desk top, or better still, for use while flying. Clever styling ensures that this piece can easily be removed from its strap and placed into its special wooden presentation box where it takes on a whole new character, replicating the aesthetics and usefulness of a model which Hamilton created during World War II.

Hamilton Khaki Takeoff Dashboard Inspiration

For ease of use, the crown and the pushers have been relegated from the case side to the top of the case, which with a case which measures 46.3mm across also means that it will rest more comfortably on the wrist. Readability is enhanced with clean dial styling coupled with vivid yellow accents and a black PVD-coated steel case makes this a handsome and distinctive piece.

Hamilton Khaki Takeoff Auto Chrono Limited Edition

The Khaki Takeoff Auto Chrono model is powered by the Hamilton H-31 movement with chronograph function and it features a power reserve of 60 hours. The model comes presented on a leather strap with rubber lining which folds neatly away into the wooden display box when off the wrist. This piece will be limited to just 1999 pieces, priced at $3,295.

[...] The post Hamilton’s 2014 Collection Incoming appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

Now as I am sure you will agree, 20 years is a remarkable achievement for any company and so it is only fitting that a special collection was created to honour the occasion. I think it’s fair to say though that this particular milestone carries extra significance because it reflects the indomitable spirit of the brand and its founder, Walter Lange, who resurrected the Lange name in 1990 after it had languished in the shadow of the Berlin Wall for almost 50 years.

I won’t go into the details here (although if you are curious about the history of the Lange 1 you can read more about it in this article here) but briefly, during World War II and the subsequent Soviet occupation of Eastern Germany, many companies were summarily taken over and shut down. Lange, founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, was unfortunately one of them and so in 1948 operations ceased.

This extended period of forced inactivity persisted all the way up to 1990, until the collapse of the East German government finally paved the way for Adolph’s great-grandson, Walter Lange, together with watch industry veteran Günter Blümlein, to finally begin the process of restoring the company to its former glory (with a little help from their friends, such as IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre). It wasn’t until 1994 however, when the company launched its first collections, comprising the Lange 1 (obviously), the Saxonia, the Arkade and the Tourbillon “Pour le Merite” that it truly considered itself a fully-fledged brand, hence the reason the 20th Anniversary is being celebrated this year with the limited edition collection.

Still, as stunning as these pieces are however there was another celebratory timepiece that caught my eye even more and I’m sure you can probably guess what it was; the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst. Also created as a limited edition of just 20 pieces – all of which have already been sold so don’t even bother asking – the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is a nothing short of a masterpiece of modern watchmaking.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst

The Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst

The term Handwerkskunst translates to ‘craftsmanship’ in English and is a designation that Lange reserves for only its most elaborately decorated pieces. Presented in a discrete, 38.5-millimetre platinum case with a polished bezel the watch feels perfectly balanced both in the hand and on the wrist. Admittedly I don’t normally go for watches of this size and so the slightly smaller diameter threw me a bit at first but all it took was me wearing the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst for a minute or two to appreciate just how perfect the dimensions were. The platinum gives it a nice weight on the wrist however its relatively slim profile (it’s only 10.2 millimeters high) makes sure its presence on your wrist is felt rather than seen, in typical understated Lange style.

Up close though it’s a different story. There are so many fine details on the dial to appreciate that you are definitely going to want to stare. Don’t worry about being rude, this is a piece whose beauty has been made to be appreciated. To begin with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst features a stunning black enamel dial whose unique characteristics are just about impossible to capture on camera. What is clear to see though, even in photos, is how beautifully the hour markers and hands in rhodium gold contrast against this black as night backdrop, guaranteeing a high level of legibility without the need for contrasting colors, which in my opinion would only detract from the highly attractive yet sombre style of the piece. The same goes for the Lange 1’s trademark outsize date display, which features grey numerals on a black background.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst – Caseback

Further down the dial at 5 o’clock a small aperture reveals the superbly finished tourbillon mechanism, with the tourbillon cock in particular demanding you attention due to the challenging black polishing technique that has been applied to it. Meanwhile the contours of the aperture feature meticulously polished chamfers that capture the light as you move your wrist around. Of course, if you really want to high quality finishing you need to turn the watch over.

A sapphire exhibition caseback reveals the inner workings of Lange’s L961.3 manufacture movement, including a beautiful three-quarter plate hewn from untreated German silver which has been refined with very subtle solarisations. Your attention quickly shifts though to the elaborate relief engraving that adorns the tourbillon bridge, crown wheel and intermediate wheel cocks. Although not as extravagant as some other German-made movements we’ve seen, there is a level of intricate detail that only becomes apparent upon closer inspection. Like the dial, the finishing of the movement is not overwhelming and yet I found myself unable to stop staring at it.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst – Wristshot

Unfortunately my brief experience with the A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst was all too fleeting. I’m sure however that the twenty proud new owners will be getting not only hours but years of enjoyment from their new acquisitions, which seems fair enough given the $221,700 per piece each one has paid for the privilege.

[...] The post A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Hands-On appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

Are watch spotters the new train spotters? Train spotters were rife in the 50s and 60s when trains were a whole lot more interesting to look at as they ran on steam, and were gloriously mechanical. But by 1968, locomotives which had been designed to happily ply Britain’s railways, had been more or less phased out, and with them went the traditional train spotter, clad in his grubby anorak, carrying his thermos flask and notepad so as to hang around chilly railway embankments in the hope of noting down locomotive numbers.

Train Spotter

In contrast, the watch spotter has had a much better time of it. There’s no hanging around freezing train stations, no anoraks required, and above all, since the nadir of the 70s and early 80s, there has been a renaissance in mechanical timepieces for the watch spotter to marvel at from a multitude of top Swiss brands who dedicate their lives to developing innovative ideas around the theme of intricate and brilliantly conceived mechanical movements. Unlike train spotters, the heyday for the ardent watch spotter was not the 50s or 60s, it is right here right now.

With the rise and rise of celebrity culture, watchspotting has become almost an obsessive sport. Unlike trains, which are visible to the naked eye from hundreds of metres away, the watch spot requires high powered camera lenses to capture a fleeting glimpse of shiny wrist candy on a celebrity as it is glimpsed half hiding under an Italian bespoke suit cuff. Then the challenge really begins, it’s an IWC, a Rolex, or maybe a Cartier, but which model, which version? It looks incredibly familiar, but is it that exact model?

Arguably the best celebrity watch spot of all time

If you decide to post your latest watch spot on a Forum, you either need to be sure of your facts, or just ‘fess up and say ‘hey guys, anyone recognize this watch on David Bowie’s wrist? It’s usually certain to cause a lot of Forum heat as watch spotting experts wade in with their opinions. But it’s all part of the fun.

Watch spotters have huge advantages over train spotters, because while the paparazzi don’t tend to waste time taking pictures of trains, they do spend hours upon hours waiting in uncomfortable circumstances to all hours so as to grab candid pictures of celebrities emerging from houses or night clubs, or hotels. Often as not, as a happy coincidence, they are wearing an expensive watch that gets shown off in an attempt to by the celebrity to shield himself and his new girlfriend from the flashing, prying cameras.

When it suits them, celebrities are more than happy to show off their watches, and there are several celebrities well known for their love of them, these include the likes of Eric Clapton, Jason Statham, Orlando Bloom, Craig Daniel, Ben Affleck, Ashton Kutcher, Will Smith, David Beckham, Matthew McConaughey, Brad Pitt, Sylvester Stallone (said to have almost single handedly revived the fortunes of Panerai) and many, many more. ‘A list’ celebs are frequently seen in a range of different watches, even if they happen to be brand ambassadors for certain specific brands. And there are worthwhile watch spots not just from the world of entertainment but from politics, business, sport and adventure. A watch spotter has his work cut out just trying to keep pace.

Each new dawn presents a fresh watch spotting opportunity. With this in mind, DreamChrono has dedicated a section of the site to the contemporary noble art of Watchspotting. Several well known personalities from all walks of life will be profiled. You can check the watch they wear against the DreamChrono Watch Database so that you can study every detail of the watch worn by your favorite celebrity. But more importantly, the idea of the Watchspotting section is for it to take on a life of its own with contributors posting their best watch spots for everyone to savour. A good watch spot thrills the heart of every true watch spotter, so whether your shots are sharp and clear, or snapped on the fly with the model and make an uncertainty, send them in, so wthat readers may ponder, debate and wonder.

[...] The post The joy of watch spotting appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.

The idea of course was that you the reader may have been looking for a gift for that someone special in your life (which for some of you may in fact be yourself but hey, there’s absolutely no harm in wanting to get yourself a nice watch I always say!) Anyway, the point is the article was very well received and so given that holiday season is upon and the time of gift-giving nigh, it seemed like a good idea to do another one.

This time around we’ve chosen another high-end, although often underrated (in my opinion at least) Swiss watchmaker by the name of Parmigiani Fleurier, or just Parmigiani for short. Now don’t be surprised if that name is not so familiar to you, at just 18 years old Parmigiani is still very much a young brand – especially relative to the centuries old Ateliers that dominate the luxury watch industry – and as such is still establishing itself a serious player that’s going to be around for the decades to come.

That being said, it would be remiss of me not to mention what an achievement it is in this highly competitive industry to build a brand from scratch, earn the respect of your peers and be recognized as a maker of high quality, complicated timepieces. All without going bankrupt or succumbing to takeover offers from the much larger conglomerates that dominate this world. To do such a thing takes not only vision but also courage and fortunately Parmigiani’s founder, Michel Parmigiani, has both in equal measure.

With the support of the Sandoz Family Foundation as the brand’s principal, he used the skills acquired over a lifetime of restoring historically significant timepieces to build state of the art manufacturing facilities, enabling the brand over its relatively short history to introduce six collections featuring seventeen calibres developed in-house, including four world firsts. That’s more some than some of the more established brands have achieved in their lifetimes! And let’s not forget the gorgeous pieces of Haute Horologerie the brand has unveiled over the years, like the incredible Bugatti Supersport or the Tecnica Ombre Blanche. Suffice to say, these guys know what they’re doing.

Not everything Parmigiani do though is over the top complicated, in fact the brand has an excellent range of entry to mid-level pieces that suit a variety of tastes and budgets. We’ve picked out two for you today – one for him and one for her – to get you started.

Parmigiani Tonda Hemisphères Rose Gold

First up is the watch for him, the very masculine looking Tonda Hemisphères in rose gold. Presented in a nicely balanced 42mm case with something of an open-worked dial exposing the base-plate of the in-house movement beneath (more on that in a minute), the Tonda Hemisphères seemingly simplistic appearance underlies its rather advanced nature.

Parmigiani Tonda Hemisphères Rose Gold – Wristshot

As you might have inferred from the name (or from looking at the dial), the watch features a dual time-zone display, each equipped with their own hour and minute hands (a handy added extra that is not as common as you might think) as well as separate day/night indicators for each time-zone, making it the perfect gift for the frequent traveller. Rounding things out are a small seconds display at 6 o’clock and a highly legible date display at 9 o’clock.

As you can see on the side of the case there are two crowns for setting the two different time-zones. Initially I was a bit concerned by this design as I thought it might make the watch a little less comfortable on the wrist but after trying it on for a while I didn’t notice any problems. Turning the Tonda Hemisphères over we get a nice view of the in-house, automatic PF337 movement which offers a 50-hour power reserve. The movement has been nicely finished – although not elaborately so – with “Côtes de Genève” decoration and also features bevelled bridges. Best of all there are a number of different variants of the Tonda Hemisphères to choose from in various metals and finishes, with prices ranging from around US$27,000 – $40,000.

Parmigiani Kalparisma Ombellia

For her we have the slightly less complex Kalparisma Ombellia, although you should not take that to mean it is any less desirable. In fact, one may make the argument that it is more so for one simple reason; it’s a unique, one-of-a-kind piece. An absolutely stunning piece in every sense of the word, the first thing you notice about the Kalparisma Ombellia is the fact that both the dial and the case are adorned with diamond-set flowers. Not only does this endow the piece with a sense of delicate femininity it also ensures all eyes in the room will be on the wrist of the wearer, especially in combination with the striking reddish-pink dial.

Parmigiani Kalparisma Ombellia – Wristshot

Presented in a tonneau-shaped white gold case, the Kalparisma Ombellia is also powered by an in-house automatic movement; the Calibre PF 331. What I like best though when looking at this watch is how the shapely curves of the case ensure it hugs even the most delicate of wrists snugly, guaranteeing not only a comfortable fit but also an elegant one. The price for the Kalparisma Ombellia is $52,900.

[...] The post Shopping For Him and Her with Parmigiani Fleurier appeared first on DreamChrono where you'll find the complete article.