{eazy traveler}

A Day in Mandalay: Mahamuni Paya, Mandalay Hill, U Bein Bridge (Amarapura) & Sagaing Hill

2012-01-27T17:09:00.000+08:00

Sutaungpyei Pagoda at Mandalay Hill provides expansive views of the city, including the old palace and moat

Arriving at 3:30 AM on a bus from Bagan to Mandalay - it's streets dark, quiet and obviously abandoned - can be pretty unnerving especially right after the guidebook reveals to you that this booming city in northern Myanmar owes its burgeoning economy to the "red, green and white trades" - that's rubies, jade and heroine. On the other hand, the last-minute read revealed that our arrival at unholy hours was timely... and, well, quite holy.

Mahamuni Paya houses the country's most venerated Buddha covered in six inches of gold leaf!

After negotiating for a full-day tour with a friendly driver of a rundown blue pick-up taxi - the most practical way to see the Mandalay region in 12 hours - we rushed to Mahamuni Paya to catch the daily ritual washing of an 18th century Buddha image. The ritual happens before day break, at 4 AM. We arrived at the temple right on time. Accompanied by prayers and chanting, a procession of monks unlock the iron grills that secure the altar. After the devout and gentle washing, male pilgrims enter the central altar, and affix gold leaf on the image. A friendly temple caretaker ushered the men in our group to enter the central altar, and allowed us to observe how the gold leaf is applied on the statue. Women worship the image behind the men. As the most venerated Buddha image in Myanmar, it has accumulated over six inches of gold on its body!

U Bein Bridge in Amarapura is the longest
teak bridge in the world!

After yummy breakfast of rice noodles at Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe (our cabbie's recommendation) and purchasing our onward bus tickets to Inle Lake (via Taunggyi) at the city terminal, we drove to the foot of Mandalay Hill, where two white giant chinthes (mythical leogryphs) stand. Here, we caught a mini-taxi or "line car" to the top, and descended the hill on foot to save time. Since Mandalay Hill is holy ground, we left our footwear at the pick-up and explored the entire hill barefoot. (Note that visiting the hill before 8:00 AM is a way to avoid paying the USD 10 entrance fee.)

At the summit, Sutaungpyei Pagoda offers a spectacular panorama of the city - including the old city walls and moat, the surrounding plains and the Ayeyarwaddy River. Descending the saungdan (covered stairway), we reached another temple further down the hill, a giant statue of Buddha with his right hand pointing down towards to the city is an imposing sight.

Surrounding the city Mandalay are the townships of Amarapura, Sagaing and Inwa, all former capitals of Myanmar. We only got to visit the first two, as we were pressed for time. The star attraction of Amarapura is U Bein Bridge. A 200-year-old wooden footbridge spanning across the Ayeyarwaddy River for 1.2 km, it is the longest teak bridge in the world, built by salvaging over 1,000 unwanted teak columns from the old palace during the move of the capital from Amarapura to Mandalay in the early 19th century. At sunset, this bridge and its pedestrians are a photographer's darling, providing a stunning silhouette to the retiring orange sunlight.

A spicy breakfast of rice noodles

Our last stop was the township of Sagaing, best known for its green hills peppered with more temples and pagodas, similar to Mandalay Hill. Getting here, we traversed the Ayeyarwaddy on the scenic Ava Bridge, a modern cantilever bridge built in 1954. The Burmese are some of the kindest people; our cabbie in Mandalay was particularly the kindest I've encountered. On our way to Sagaing, he stopped by a fruit stand to buy us a bunch of sweet longan. "A gift," he insisted with an equally generous smile.

Courtesy of our clever cab driver, we also managed to bypass paying the entrance fees for foreigners (That's another USD 5 saved per head!). Since we look Burmese, he suggested we dress up like locals by putting on our longyis (men's tube skirt) and keeping quiet as we passed through the military checkpoints, while he hustled his way and paid only the minimal car fee. Sitting right next to the driver, I nervously pretended to be asleep as our driver spoke with the border guards.

Our driver then took us to base of the stairway to the top of Sagaing Hill, where, according to our trusty cabbie, entrance tickets are not regularly checked. At the top of Sagaing Hill was Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda, overlooking the other temples and monasteries perched on the surrounding hills... By 4PM, we had to return to Mandalay to catch a bus to Inle Lake.

From Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda on Sagaing Hill, one can admire the stupa-peppered countryside

For information on how to get to Mandalay, check out my seven-day itinerary in Myanmar.

DIY Walking Tour - Roxas City

2012-01-25T19:01:00.000+08:00

Location: Roxas City, Capiz

Starting Point: Manuel Roxas Shrine

End Point: Roxas City Museum (Panublion Museum)

Distance: 1.5 km

Duration: 2 hours

Though much father from famed Boracay Island - four hours, to be exact - the city of Roxas in Capiz province makes for a much more pleasant, laid-back gateway to Western Visayas, compared to neighboring Kalibo in Aklan or even industrialized Iloilo City. Roxas City (formerly Capiz town) was established when Captain Diego de Artieda, who was sent by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi from Cebu, moved the Spanish capital from Pan-ay town in 1569, since Capiz was right next to the coast and made for a strategic location for the purposes of trade and naval defense.

Manuel Roxas Shrine - birthplace of Capiz' greatest son

When Capiz town became a city in 1951, it was renamed Roxas after its greatest son, President Manuel Acuña Roxas. The city sits at the base of mangrove forests and aquaculture ponds that fan out to the sea, supplying an abundance of marine life that make it the self-proclaimed "Seafood Capital of the Philippines". It's also called the "Venice of the Visayas" after the Panay River that cuts through the town center surrounded by some colonial structures.

Beautifully-maintained interior of the Roxas Ancestral House

• The old quarter is centered on the city plaza. Start off at the farthest spot, the Manuel Roxas Shrine at the corner of Rizal and Zamora Streets is the ancestral house where Roxas, the last president of the Commonwealth and first President of the Republic of the Philippines was born on Janury 1, 1892. Today, the shrine is a private residence owned by the Acuña family. Ask the proprietors or caretakers for a tour of its airy, beautifully-preserved interiors filled with hardwood furniture and memorabilia. Donations for the shrine's upkeep are encouraged.

• Walk up Rizal Street to the city plaza. At the Halaran Plaza is a beautiful bandstand built in the 1920s. A popular venue for political rallies and program launches, its an earthquake-proof structure built by Jose Roldan, the first Filipino principal of the Capiz trade school. Next to the bandstand is a gazebo that houses tourist information center and a police outpost.

Immaculate Conception Metropolitan Cathedral

• The Roxas City Bridge (Old Capiz Bridge) over the Panay River was built in 1910. The bridge provides the best vantage point overlooking the other attractions of the plaza such as the Roxas City Fountain, which was renovated in 2008. It features four sculpted golden horsemen carrying a heavy arch, symbolizing unity and cooperation, especially in times of crisis.

• Another impressive structure in the plaza is the Capiz Provincial Capitol built in 1915. It was designed by American architect William Parsons, blending 19th century Spanish-Filipino architecture with neoclassical American styles.

• The centerpiece of the plaza is the Immaculate Conception Metropolitan Cathedral Parish (Roxas Cathedral). The stone church was finished in 1876, after a primitive original structure was destroyed by typhoon in 1698. The church was severely damaged during Second World War, and was rebuilt in 1954. Don't forget to peek into the woodsy, air-conditioned adoration chapel on the right side of the cathedral.

Panublion Museum used to be water tank built in 1910

• Passing along quaint cutflower stands, a new industry in Capiz province, head to the white-painted Ang Panublion (Roxas City Museum), a water tank built 1910 converted into a small museum showcasing President Roxas memorabilia and artifacts of the Panay Bukidnon, an indigenous tribe that lives in the highlands of Capiz. Donations for the museum's upkeep are encouraged.

Diwal clams - a Roxas specialty

• No trip to Roxas is complete without feasting on delicious sea critters. After all, it's not dubbed the "Seafood Capital of the Philippines" for nothing. After the walking tour, one may hop on a tricycle (PHP 20) to the seaside boulevard along Baybay Beach, where there are native restaurants selling affordable seafood. A generous dinner for two of blue marlin, squid, crabs and clams was only PHP 420! Sample the province's specialty are diwal (angel wing clams)...

HOW TO GET THERE: There are direct flights between Manila and Roxas. The city center is 10 minutes from the airport. Ride a tricycle (PHP 10/pax). From Kalibo, Roxas is 1.5 hours by van (A/C: PHP 120, non-A/C: PHP 100). From Iloilo City, Roxas is 2.5 hours by van (PHP 140). Van terminals are located at KM 1, Roxas Avenue.

WHERE TO STAY: Halaran Plaza Hotel, a house built in 1910, sits along the Panay River, near the Bandstand. This rustic place offers spacious rooms starting at PHP 500 for a double fan room. Address: P. Gomez cor. Washington Sts, Roxas City. Tel: (+6336) 621-0649

Caramoan Peninsula: Sabitan Laya, Lahuy, Cotivas & Guinahoan Islands

2012-01-24T18:05:00.002+08:00

The gang strutting our stuff at Sabitan Laya, ala Survivor

My travel buddy Jessica and I spent our birthday weekend with friends at Caramoan Peninsula in Camarines Sur, an anvil-shaped piece of land jutting out of southeast Luzon that fractures into numerous islands, some of them boasting karst formations akin to El Nido and Coron. This island paradise catapulted to world-wide stardom starting in 2007 as the setting of the French, Swedish, Bulgarian, Serbian, Israeli and, most recently, Indian franchise of the hit reality TV show, Survivor. The islands are leased by the franchise for 25 years. (Consequently, some of the islands are off limits to tourists when there are shootings.)

The vanishing Manlawi Sand Bar in Lahuy Island

Due to the choppy condition of the Pacific waters, our island-hopping activities centered amidst the sheltered waters of Caramoan's western isles just north of the jump-off jetty of Bikal. First stop: Sabitan Laya Beach on an arrowhead-shaped island with a cluster of karst outcrops at its tip, from which two stretches of fine beaches radiate from.

The less-visited Guinahoan Island boasts of Batanes-like rolling pastures and dramatic cliffs

Further north is the large island of Lahuy, where a large sandbank called Manlawi Sand Bar appears only during low tide. It's a great place to have lunch; for PHP 200, local villagers can instantly assemble a makeshift bamboo cottage for your food and belongings. Make sure to finish lunch before the tide rushes in! Next to Lahuy is Cotivas Island, a smaller island with a more permanent sandbank on its eastern end, and striated rock formations on the other.

Friendly islanders welcome us in their village of nipa (palm) huts at Guinahoan Island

Unfortunately, due to the unpredictable weather last weekend, the postcard-pretty karst spots of Gota Beach, Matukad Island and Lahos Island were crossed out of the itinerary. (I'm hoping to return within the year to check out these remaining islands.) In lieu of them, we were taken to Guinahoan Island, next to Cotivas. Because Guinahoan is not often frequented by travelers, our arrival prompted a sunny welcome by the villagers, many of them children who eagerly offered to guide our group to the lighthouse at the highest point of the island. According to our boatman, only guests of West Peninsula Villas are permitted to visit Guinahoan Island since a staff member of the resort is from this island. Just when I thought that Caramoan Islands were all about jagged limestone islands, Guinahoan was a welcome surprise with its rolling pastures, dramatic cliffs, crashing surf and languid cattle, very reminiscent of the famed isles of Batanes!

Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Caramoan town

Back in Caramoan town, not to be missed before leaving the peninsula is the red-brick Church of St. Michael the Archangel, which harps back to the Spanish period, when the town was first established as a settlement called Baluarte amidst impenetrable rainforest by a zealous missionary named Francisco de la Cruz y Oropesa.

Small bangka at Guijalo Port, Caramoan

HOW TO GET THERE: Frequent buses ply between Manila and Naga (7 to 8 hours). A deluxe Peñafrancia Bus (with onboard toilets) to Naga costs PHP 900 per way. There are also flights between both cities.

Getting to Caramoan involves transfering from Naga to Sabang port (1 hour) in San Jose, then catching a lantsa (outrigger ferry) (PHP 120, 2 hours) or ro-ro ferry boat (PHP 150, 2.5 hours) to Guijalo port in Caramoan municipality.

Though connected to mainland Luzon, Caramoan proper is more accessible by sea because the road that connects it to the rest of the province remains undeveloped. From Guijalo, it's a 20-minute ride to Caramoan town, where most of the budget guesthouses are, halfway to the northern jetty of Bikal where bangkas (outrigger boats) take tourists to the numerous offshore islands. A full-day boat rental would normally cost 1,500 to 2,500 depending on the distance of the islands to be visited.

For a DIY budget breakdown, check out this entry by Tripadora.

West Peninsula Villas offers best-value accommodations!

Since we were 12 in the group, we opted for an ALL-IN hassle-free 3D/2N tour package from our accommodation, West Peninsula Villas (westpen.i.ph) in Caramoan town, at only PHP 3,500 per head. After comparing several packages promoted online, this was the best value we found, which included all of the following:

• Round-trip A/C van transfers - Naga Airport to Sabang Port
• Round-trip boat transfers - Sabang Port to Guijalo Port (Caramoan)
• A/C Villa Accommodation with CATV, CR and free wifi zone (4 pax per room)
• Six (6) meals (breakfast, lunch & dinner)
• Boat rental for two (2) days of island-hopping
• Service Vehicle within Caramoan town
• Entrance fees
• Friendly tour guide
• Free souvenir
• Free one (1) night karaoke at Lake Bar

For inquiries, contact Mr. Jean "Dens" Sancho Jr. of West Peninsula Villas at +63 9153295669 or +63 9212642538.

WHERE TO STAY: West Peninsula Villas offers the best value in town with A/C thatch-roofed rooms that accommodate 4 to 6 pax each. The 4 pax villa is only PHP 1,500. Billiards. Amenities include a floating bar, videoke room, mini gym, free wifi, dart game, pool table and basketball court. When filming the Survivor series, some of the production crew stays here. Some props and obstacles used in the show decorate the resort grounds.

Kalibo Detour: Jawili Falls, Afga Point & Tangalan Church

2012-01-19T18:17:00.000+08:00

Swim or cannonball into the natural jacuzzis of Jawili Falls in Tangalan, Aklan

The neighboring town of Tangalan provided a quick escape for me, my mom and my sister from the madness of the Ati-Atihan Festival in Kalibo. The primary reason people visit this town is to check out Jawili Falls, located some 15 mins from the highway. A series of seven cataracts surrounded by dense greenery, Jawili Falls is very swimmable. Unlike other popular waterfalls in the Philippines that have unsightly swimming areas built with concrete, the naturally formed jacuzzi-like rock pools carved by the cascading water was a pleasant surprise. And these pools were very deep! It was exciting watching several children cannonballing into the bowl-like reservoirs.

Ramble across the fascinating wave-rock formations of Afga Point

Between Brgy. Jawili and the highway, we stopped by Brgy. Afga. A small white lighthouse marks Afga Point, a precipice overlooking a rough coastline. A narrow and steep path concealed by foliage leads down to the fascinating rock sculptures shaped by sea called "wave-rock formations". A congenial youngster from the village named Cyren offered to show us the way to the shoreline below. The limestones and coral stone used to build San Juan Nepomuceno Church (Tangalan Church) were quarried from this area by natives under the polo (forced labor) system during Spanish rule. Finished in 1889, the church took 28 years to build. Don't miss out on dropping by this edifice before returning to the highway.

San Juan Nepomuceno Church was finished in 1889

HOW TO GET THERE: Take a Kalibo-Tangalan jeepney (PHP 23, 30 mins) at the common transportation terminal in Kalibo. Alight at the Tangalan public market along the highway, and take a tricycle to Jawili Falls (PHP 20/pax, 15 mins). Best to ask the tricycle driver to wait for you, as tricycles do not frequent the falls. On the way back from the falls, you can stop by Afga Point and Tangalan Church.

WHERE TO STAY: There are several accommodation options in Kalibo, but if you want to spend the night near Jawili Falls, there are a few newly-built native cottages (PHP 400, good for 2pax) next to a house across the entrance to the falls. Contact Cethlyn - +639215965330.

Ati-Atihan Festival - 800 Years Onwards

2012-01-18T20:40:00.000+08:00

Ati-Atihan traces its roots to the early 13th century when the Ati people sold land to Malay settlers

One of the oldest celebrations in the Philippines - a country known for its many colorful festivals throughout the year - the Ati-Atihan traces its roots to as far back as 1212 AD, when it is believed that ten Malay datus (chieftains) from Borneo, escaping the oppressive rule of Datu Makatunaw, arrived aboard balangays (sail boats) near the present-day town of San Joaquin, Iloilo.

Led by Datu Puti, they purchased land from the aboriginal Ati with a gold saduk (wide-brimmed helmet), a chain of pure gold necklace, and some gifts consisting of colored clothes, decorated arms, and fanciful trinkets.

Dancers apply soot on their skin to portray Atis

Celebration followed, with the Atis thanking their anitos (nature spirits) through vigorous dance. Upon the colonization and evangelization of the archipelago by the Spanish Crown in the 16th century, this tribal revelry was assimilated into Christian worship as a tribute to Santo Niño, the Holy Child Jesus.

Though far much larger in scale and popularity, the Sinulog and Dinagyang festivals of Cebu and Iloilo, which was established only in the 1980s, were inspired by the Ati-Atihan festivals of Aklan province.

The Feast of the Santo Niño culminates every third Sunday of January. But as early as Saturday, the town revs up the celebration with tribal dancing around the town plaza. The main festivities center on Pastrana Park, fronting the Kalibo Cathedral, where "tribes" from Kalibo's barangays (villages) and associations shuffle to the beat of drums and xylophones in fanciful tribal-inspired costumes with impressive headdresses.

Revelers young and old join the procession

Most dancers are covered in soot to portray dark-skinned Ati people, shouting "Viva Señor Santo Niño!" (Long live the Holy Child!) and "Hala bira!" (Go for it!).

The parade also becomes a Halloween extravaganza with some individuals playing dress up as wild animals or famous personalities (eg. Michael Jackson) to spike up the merriment. The festival climaxes the following day with a religious procession interspersed with free-for-all dancing and drunken merrymaking by locals and visitors alike that start mid-afternoon and continue well into the night. Some "tribes" in full costume reprise their performance.

HOW TO GET THERE: Local airlines fly to Kalibo from Manila and Cebu. There are direct international flights to Kalibo from China and Korea.

WHERE TO STAY: Book accommodations at least a month before the festival. And expect a minimum stay of three nights, and paying double or triple the regular rate. Bakhawan Inn in Brgy. New Buswang offered 4D/3N stay in an A/C room for four people for only PHP 2,700! It's located in the outskirts of town, 15 minutes by tricycle (PHP 20/pax), but provided a quiet retreat from the raucous celebration. It's a short walk from Bakhawan Park, one of Kalibo's main attractions - a lush mangrove forest that one can explore along an 800-meter long bamboo boardwalk.

End the night clubbing at Abregana Bar & Restaurant!

WHERE TO EAT: Forget Mezzanine Cafe, which guidebooks recommend. And head to Kitty's Kitchen instead, across the street. They have a wide range of delicious Filipino and Western fare. Bestsellers are their burgers and pizzas. Try their yummy back back ribs meal at only PHP 110! Address: Rizal Street, Kalibo. Tel: +63 (36) 2689444.

WHERE TO PARTY: Head to Magsaysay Park (entrance fee: PHP 50) for splendid fireworks displays and open-air concerts. Or to Abregana Bar & Restaurant at Judge N. Martelino St. for some awesome clubbing!

Osmeña Peak: Summiting Cebu's Crown

2012-01-18T13:03:00.000+08:00

Osmeña Peak in Dalaguete is the highest point of Cebu province.

Villager uses a vegetable basket for firewood

Having been born and raised in the "Queen City of the South", I thought I've explored every significant corner of my home province. The hidden gems of the south, however, prove me shamefully wrong.

Traveling with blogger friends to southern Cebu over the holidays to swim with Oslob's whale sharks and revisit Boljoon's heritage, our one-day sojourn climaxed at Dalaguete town where we hiked to the highest point of the pencil-thin province.

Lording over the cool-weathered vegetable valleys of Mantalongon village - the self-described "Little Baguio of Cebu", as one farmer we encountered affirmed - the mountain is a collection of karst outcrops with the highest one rising 1,013 meters above sea level. During the wet season, temperatures here range from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius, providing conditions most suitable for vegetable farming.

Among the vegetables grown here are cabbage, pechay (snow cabbage), carrots, sayote (chayote) and eggplant. Along the way, one will encounter local farmers carrying huge baskets of produce on their backs. These vegetables will make their way to the Mantalongon public market, and shuttled to Carbon Market in Cebu City to be distributed around the region.

Entrance to the summit of Osmeña Peak

The undulating landscape reminded me of Batanes (from photographs, that is, as I've yet to visit this much-heralded island province). At the top, one can admire both the eastern and western coastlines of Cebu and, when the weather is clear, see the neighboring provinces of Negros and Bohol as well. Looking westwards, there's the beach and diving havens of Badian and Pescador Islands.

With travel bloggers Christine, Edcel, Andrew and Doi.
Photographed by Edcel Ceniza

HOW TO GET THERE: From the Cebu City south bus terminal, take a bus heading for the southern towns of Oslob. Alight at Dalaguete town (1.5 hrs, PHP 100). At the junction of the Dalaguete-Badian road along the highway, take a habal-habal motorbike (30-40 minutes, PHP 100/pax) to the jump-off point to the summit of Osmeña Peak.

From here, it's an easy 30-minute hike to the karst peaks at the summit (entrance: PHP 20/pax, if the caretakers are around). Best time to visit? Sunset. Just ask for a local to wait for you and guide you down the mountain at nightfall.

More adventurous hikers camp here, and traverse the following day to Kawasan Falls in Badian. For a detailed profile of the mountain, check out Pinoy Mountaineer.

I would like to make a shout out to my travel companions for this trip: Christine of Jovial Wanderer; Edcel of Solo Flight Ed; Edcel and Sheena of The Wandering Couple; Doi of The Travelling Feet and Andrew of Trippings by Drew.

DIY Walking Tour - Vigan City

2012-01-10T22:08:00.001+08:00

Location: Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

Starting Point: Crisologo Museum

End Point: Crisologo Street

Distance: 3 km

Duration: 8 hours

Along cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages clip-clop through beautifully weathered mansions finished with terracotta roofs, capiz shell windows and wrought-iron grillwork. No other town in the Philippines evokes old-world allure better than the provincial capital of Vigan in Ilocos Sur, 408 km north of Manila.

Chinese merchants frequented this trading post, strategically located on the mouth of the Abra River, long before the Spanish Crown, who colonized the archipelago for over three centuries, established it as the political and religious centre of northern Luzon in 1572. The town took its name from the bigaa (giant taro) plant that thrived along its rivers, which served as conduits of commercial and cultural trade for centuries. Because of its direct links with China, the town supplied goods for the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade between the Philippines and Mexico until 1815.

Street lamps intensify Calle Crisologo's charm at sundown

Exploring the historic core of this city is like stepping into a time machine. With its unique blend of Asian design and construction with European architecture and planning, the townscape transports you centuries back when the Philippines was a Spanish colony. Unlike other colonial towns in the country that have been largely destroyed by war, neglect and urban development, a significant number of landmarks built from the 18th to 19th centuries remains intact. The old quarter is composed of more than 180 ancestral homes, administrative buildings, religious structures and public squares.

Time travel on a kalesa (horse-drawn carriage)!

The town’s saga continued well into the 20th century. ‘After the Second World War, many families abandoned their ancestral houses and moved to Manila to seek a better life. Vigan was like a ghost town,’ explains Marjo V. Gasser, one of the first heritage advocates who campaigned for the town’s conservation. ‘It took us more than a decade to resurrect the city.’ Their hard work and perseverance paid off when the Historic Town of Vigan was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, as the best-preserved example of a planned Spanish colonial town in Asia.

Syquia Mansion, home of Pres. Elpidio Quirino

• This walk is circuitous, so one can start it at any point. However, most of the bus terminals are on the southern end of the city center. The bus stations of Dominion and Aniceto are near Crisologo Museum and Simbaan a Bassit, so I'd recommend you start here, especially if you're visiting Vigan as a day trip from elsewhere. Crisologo Museum (entrance fee: donation only) is the ancestral home of a prominent lawyer and politician, while Simbaan a Bassit, which means "small church" in Ilocano, is a cemetery chapel built in the 1850s.

• Walk up Quezon Avenue to the Burgos Museum (entrance fee: PHP 10), residence of martyr-priest Fr. Jose Burgos and a branch of the National Museum.

Garlicky Vigan longganisa

• Stroll to Plaza Salcedo where revolutionary heroine Gabriela Silang was hanged in the 18th century. Don't miss the empanada (sausage turnover) and okoy (shrimp pancakes) sold at the food stalls!

• Nearby is the Arzobispo, the only Spanish-period Archbishop's residence in the Philippines that's still in use. It houses the Museo Nuevo Segovia (entrance fee: PHP 20), which has a collection of paintings, manuscripts and religious articles.

• Next to the Arzobispo is the impressive St. Paul's Metropolitan Cathedral (Vigan Cathedral), a reinterpretation of European baroque architecture made to withstand tremors, hence the term "earthquake baroque." The first church was established in 1574 by conquistador Juan de Salcedo. Adjacent to the cathedral is Museo San Pablo (entrance fee: PHP 20), another religious museum.

• Traverse Plaza Burgos to cobblestone lane of Calle Crisologo, lined with beautiful mansions of Chinese and Spanish mestizo (creole) families. Many are converted to quaint shops selling antiques and souvenirs. Others are nice restaurants like Cafe Leona, Cafe Uno at Grandpa's Inn and Tummy Talk, which serves eat-all-you-can miki noodle soup for only PHP 40 from 2-5pm! Don’t leave Vigan without trying the local specialties like bagnet (deep-fried pork belly), longganisa (pork sausage) and pinakbet (vegetable stew).

Simbaan a Bassit, cemetery chapel built in the 1850s

• Detour along Salcedo St towards the Syquia Mansion (entrance fee: PHP 20), residence of President Elpidio Quirino and his wife from the Syquia clan.

• A few blocks down is another exquisite example of bahay na bato (stone house) architecture: the Quema House. It's a private residence, but the caretakers occasionally allow visitors to tour and photograph the house. Just ask politely.

Fisherman at Mindoro Beach

• Return to Calle Crisologo. You may continue wandering its streets until dusk when the street lamps light up to intensify its charm, and enjoy a lantern-lit al fresco dinner at Cafe Leona. Another option, if you have spare time, is to hop on a tricycle to Cristy's Loomweaving (+63 9164919320) in Brgy. Camangaan to watch how abel iloco (Ilocano cotton fabric) is crafted. Or to RG Jar Factory (+63 777231550) along Gomez St in the Burnayan quarter to watch how burnay jars and other pottery are shaped and fired in 19th century kilns.

• A less touristy way to end your day is to watch the sunset at Mindoro Beach, a short tricycle ride (PHP 20-40, 15 mins) away from the city centre, as villagers catch fish the traditional way along the pounding surf of the South China Sea.

Tom Cruise once stayed at Villa Angela Heritage House!

HOW TO GET THERE: Vigan is 7 to 8 hours from Manila by bus. Popular bus lines are Partas (PHP 605) and Dominion (PHP 580), which depart from Cubao, Quezon City. The cheapest ride is Aniceto Trans at Sampaloc, Manila for only PHP 420, but they don't have frequent trips, so call them at +632 7315180 for the schedule. The bus from Vigan to Manila leaves once daily at 9:00 PM along Liberation Blvd, near Simbaan a Bassit.

WHERE TO STAY: Complete your time travelling by sleeping on a splendid four-poster bed in an airy colonial mansion. A bahay na bato (stone house) built in 1870, Villa Angela Heritage House was once the residence of the gobernadorcillo (municipal governor). It offers exclusive bedrooms in a spacious home furnished with hardwood furniture, antiques and family memorabilia. No wonder Tom Cruise enjoyed his stay here while filming Born on the Fourth of July. Villa Angela Heritage House, 26 Quirino Blvd, tel: +63 (77) 7222914. Double A/C rooms start at P1,500, inc. breakfast.

A cheaper option that doesn't sacrifice on rustic ambience is Grandpa's Inn (Tel. +63 77 7222118) is a Spanish ancestral home converted into a cozy hotel with rustic ambiance, great customer service and delicious food. And starting at PHP 650 for a double fan room (common T&B), it's the best value in town!

Special thanks to local travel blogger Edmar Guquib of http://edmarationetc.blogspot.com/ for touring me around Vigan on his motorbike during my revisit last weekend!

Pathways to the Past: Boljoon's Heritage Trail

2012-01-05T13:58:00.000+08:00

The Patrocinio de Maria Church (1783) of Boljoon is the oldest remaining original church in Cebu.

Established between 1598 and 1600, the town of Boljoon (pronounced Bol-ho-on) along the southeast coast of Cebu island is one of the most scenic in the Visayas. After a sharp curve around a large boulder called Ilihan Rock along the coastal road, the seaside settlement appears in its tranquil beauty, centered around an austere church, convent and watchtower, set next to the mountains. Having been born and raised in Cebu City, I've stopped by this town a number of times before, during our family road trips around the south. My mother's hometown is Argao, another historic town also along the province's southeast coast a few towns closer to the metro. Growing up, we'd frequent Argao to visit relatives - both living and deceased - especially during holidays like Holy Week and All Souls' Day.

19th-century graffiti of Spanish steamers
in El Grande Baluarte

Over the Christmas holiday, a visit to the south with fellow travel bloggers to swim with the whale sharks of Oslob and to hike Osmeña Peak in Dalaguete afforded me an opportunity to revisit Boljoon's heritage. I was surprise to find many secrets of the past which I've overlooked in my previous visits! While the most imposing attraction would be the church complex, a marked heritage trail leads visitors to other less-visited important sites in town. Look for the explanatory signposts and route maps in each attraction. Start at the church complex, and passing through arched gate to the left of the Escuela Catolica, see other colonial edifices in town.

Escuela Catolica as seen from the
El Grande Baluarte watchtower

1. Patrocinio de Maria Church Complex

The church complex is composed of the church, rectory, belfry, plaza cemetery, Escuela Catolica (school), El Grande Baluarte (watchtower), gates and walls. Constructed in 1783, the Church of Patrocinio de Maria is the oldest remaining original church in Cebu and was declared a National Cultural Treasure in 1999. Currently, it is on the tentative list to becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the Baroque Churches of the Philippines.

The rectory houses the Boljoon Parish Museum (free admission, but donations encouraged) that features religious articles from the Spanish period, as well as, more interestingly, pre-colonial artifacts recovered from an archeological dig in the church grounds that yielded an extensive burial site of 53 human remains dated to the 14th to 15th centuries. Among the interesting finds are jewelry of gold and precious stones, and exquisite ceramics from as far away as Japan!

The El Grande Baluarte, a Spanish watchtower, conceals another fascinating secret. On the first level is a prison cell with several graffiti of Spanish steamers believed to be made by its incarcerated occupants during the late 19th century. The type of marine vessels drawn indicates that these drawings were made no earlier than 1848. This watchtower is kept under lock and key for most of the day; wait for the bell-ringer to open it at noon, when he rings the bells on the second level.

Dr. Dionisio Niere House (1928) was occupied by the Japanese Imperial Army during WW-II

2. Dr. Dionisio Niere House

Built in 1928, during the American occupation, this beautiful two-storey house of wood and concrete belonged to the first Doctor of Medicine in town, Dr. Dionisio Niere. During the Second World War, it was used as headquarters for the Japanese Imperial Army.

3. Cirilo Sestoso House

Built in 1881, this pastel-colored two-storey house is the oldest in Boljoon built by Cirilo Sestoso, a gobernadorcillo during the Spanish period and one of the prominent workers who built the Boljoon church.

A villager washing clothes at Baño sa Poblacion

4. Boljoon Bridge

A dilapidated wooden bridge built in 1913 runs parallel to the modern one that motorists now use. Townspeople had to cut a huge boulder to divert the river which once ran through the poblacion.

5. Baluarte sa Fuente

Tucked away behind some houses off the highway and strangled by ficus trees is a two-storey octagonal watchtower built in the 1880s by military priest Fr. Julian Bermejo.

6. Baño sa Poblacion

A cold spring believed to be the spot where pre-colonial Bolhoanons first encountered the Spanish colonizers. To this day, townsfolk still bathe and wash their clothes here. Clean, fresh water still flows, as one laundrywoman pointed out to me.

7. Gabaldon Building (Boljoon Central School)

Built in 1913, the Gabaldon Building served as a garrison of the Japanese Imperial Army during the Second World War.

Ilihan Rock provides a dramatic entry point upon arriving at Boljoon town proper

8. Ilihan Rock

Ilihan Rock is a rocky peninsula that extends to the sea. Vehicles from Cebu circumvent this landmark upon entering Boljoon proper. Having been used as natural watchtower for Muslim pirates during the Spanish colonial period, this formation offers a great vantage point overlooking the Bohol Sea and the entire town of Boljoon.

HOW TO GET THERE: Take a south-bound bus passing by Boljoon (PHP 120, 2 hours) at the Cebu City south bus terminal. Alight at the church complex along the highway.

El Nido, Palawan: Paradise Found

2012-01-04T01:16:00.000+08:00

This unedited article is for a commissioned travel feature
in Travel 3Sixty magazine of AirAsia, January 2012.

The map was beautifully colored in… Then on one of a cluster of small islands I noticed a black mark. An X mark. I looked closer. Written underneath in tiny letters was the word ‘Beach’.

- Alex Garland, The Beach

“Slow and steady,” I muttered to myself, drawing perseverance from the small brown snail beside me inching its way up the precipice. What my friends and I expected to be a manageable “hike” up the citadels of marble and limestone guarding El Nido town in northern Palawan turned out to be an unnerving climb up bladed boulders and gaping sinkholes. Above us, a troop of long-tailed macaques slipped into the overhanging foliage. “We’re almost there,” our tour guide Mahie Ermino lied again. Looking ahead, we were no more than halfway up the 230-meter high taraw or limestone cliff. “I once accompanied a 72-year-old Australian lady to the top,” he assured us in Filipino, “If she can do it, you can too.”

El Nido is characterized by dramatic karsts like these ones in Matinloc Island

Thankfully, Ermino’s step-by-step supervision (and bagful of encouraging half-truths) delivered us unscathed to the mountain’s jagged crown where our determination rewarded us with the incredible vista that intrepid travelers risk life and limb to see. Before us, a languid seaside village awoke to the citrusy sunshine pouring onto an amber crescent of sand, lapped up by azure waters. “A view to die for,” a friend aptly described it. Distracted by the morning spectacle, we managed to play oblivious to the 40-storey sheer drop as we posed for proofs of our audacity, flashing cheesy smiles at our cameras like everything was simply a walk in the park. On the left side of the cove, Cadlao Island – the largest of the offshore islands in the Bacuit Archipelago – peered at the white outrigger boats scattered across the bay, one of them we hired to continue our adventures offshore.

Fresh coconut at Seven Commandos

Besides admiring such screensaver-pretty views, fearless locals called busyadores have been climbing these karsts for centuries for a lucrative reason. Chinese traders began visiting these Philippine shores during the Song Dynasty (AD 960 to 1279) to trade for edible bird’s nest or nido in Spanish, a strange delicacy that eventually gave the settlement its name. The so-called “white gold” consists of solidified saliva from black swiftlets residing in the craggy skyscrapers that characterize much of Palawan’s northern coastlines.

Eating gourmet nido soup is traditionally believed to provide many health benefits such as aiding digestion, raising libido and improving the immune system. “Today, the finest grade of bird’s nest can fetch up to USD 4,500 per kilogram,” reveals tourism officer Bong Sabenacio, whose family once owned the largest concession of swiftlet caves in town.

Sunset over the islands of Bacuit Bay

However, most residents have now turned to more environmentally friendly industries such as sustainable tourism to earn a living. For centuries, El Nido remained far removed from the rest of the world until three decades ago, explains resort owner Henri Fernandez of Entalula Beach Cottages. In 1979, a fishing line disabled the propeller of a Japanese dive boat, forcing the crew to spend a night in an inlet. The next day, the divers awoke to the surreal seascape of jade forests and impressive cliffs rising out of sparkling lagoons. “They had to slap their faces to make sure they weren’t dreaming!” Fernandez recounts.

After the incident, word of paradise spread quickly. In the following years, a gravel airstrip was built to fly in luxury travelers to the high-end resorts put up by Filipino and Japanese investors on a few offshore islands. Later on, backpackers began arriving in the main town, where affordable guesthouses, restaurants and dive shops have sprouted, mostly along the beachfront. More recently, El Nido appeared in The Amazing Race 5 and Koh-Lanta, the French franchise of Survivor. Remarkably, despite earning global attention, the place has preserved its laid-back appeal. “To minimize the impact of tourism on the environment,” explains Fernandez, “we advocate a ‘low density, high value’ policy.” Convivial locals complement the relaxed, uncrowded atmosphere. Unlike the touristy beaches of Puerto Galera or Boracay Island, this destination is fortunately free of aggressive touts. And, most surprisingly, electricity is only available at night, when the most happening spots in town are a few beachside drinking holes serenaded by acoustic guitar and percussion.

Drink in the underwater marvels of Shimizu Island and other snorkeling spots

Our stupendous climb whetted our appetite for more adventures. We boarded a motorized bangka (outrigger canoe) to explore the archipelagic dreamscape of Bacuit Bay, which encompasses some 45 islands and islets. These coralline formations were born 250 million years ago – that’s long before dinosaurs roamed – in a shallow sea covering the area that North Vietnam and South China now occupy. Sculpted by nature’s whim and wrath, this limestone labyrinth now spelled one word: “idyllic”.

As the stone sentries of Miniloc Island drew our boat into the turquoise embrace of Small Lagoon, we gaped at the unbelievable scenery – not unlike those stranded divers in 1979. “There’s something magical about this place,” says Hugo Herrera, a Panamanian friend studying in Manila who joined the trip. His sister Jessica couldn’t agree more. “El Nido really transports you away from all the stress of the city,” she says, “It’s the perfect place to get lost.” Indeed, organized island-hopping tours are the most convenient way to explore the isles, but you can kayak to discover a beach hideaway all to yourself, or – for a Robinson Crusoe experience – camp overnight at one of the islands.

Enjoy a seafood picnic by the beach!

With over 50 sugar-white beaches and 30 dive spots, you are definitely spoilt with choice. For sun-worshippers, there are broad stretches of soft sand at Seven Commandos Beach and Helicopter Island, to name the most popular. Shimizu Island and Tapiutan Strait, on the other hand, were great places to snorkel and enjoy a fiesta of underwater life. As part of the El Nido-Taytay Managed Resource Protected Area – the largest marine sanctuary in the Philippines – the Bacuit Archipelago is refuge to over 100 species of corals, 800 species of fish, six species of marine mammals (including the native dugong) and four species of endangered sea turtles, which are frequently sighted in the area.

In Matinloc Island, an intriguing terrain is Secret Beach – an enclosed tidal pool accessible only by swimming through an underwater passage – that, so the story goes, inspired British novelist Alex Garland to write the 1996 bestseller-turned-movie, The Beach. While set in Thailand, the novel was largely influenced by the author’s experience in the Philippines, where he lived for six months. Secret Beach was attractive, but we were more impressed by its grander sibling: Hidden Beach, a glassy cove concealed by jagged outcrops. During our visit, we encountered a juvenile blue-spotted stingray patrolling us from the shin-deep shallows.

At Seven Commandos Beach, an explosion of tangerine daubed the sky, signaling our departure. “Can you see the face?” Ermino asked, pointing at Cadlao Island as our boat retreated back to the mainland. “When the sunlight hits that mountain just right,” he explained, “you can see a smiling face on its peak.” Through the lavender glow of dusk, I could barely make out the fabled smile on Cadlao’s face. Nonetheless, as I daydreamed about getting stranded in this tropical bliss, I couldn’t deny the one I harbored on mine.

El Nido Cliffside Cottages

GETTING THERE

AirAsia flies to Clark (Manila) from Kuala Lumpur and Kota Kinabalu. Visit www.airasia.com for full flight schedules.

From Manila, fly to El Nido or Puerto Princesa. Lio Airport is located 4km away from El Nido town. Alternately, one can take a public bus or van to El Nido from Puerto Princesa for 5 to 7 hours.

The best time to visit is between December and May, during the drier months.

Island hopping, kayaking and cliff climbing can be arranged through guesthouses and tour operators. Boat tours include snorkeling gear and picnic lunches. Don’t forget to pay the conservation fee of PHP 200 (USD 5) per person, valid for ten days.

WHERE TO STAY: El Nido town offers several budget resorts such as El Nido Cliffside Cottages (+63 9197856625) and Entalula Beach Cottages. For upscale options, check out El Nido Resorts.

CURRENCY: Philippine currency is called peso (PHP) and is sub-divided into 100 centavos. 1 USD gets you around PHP 43. It is advised that you bring enough cash for your entire stay, since there are no ATMs in town. Only a few establishments accept credit cards.

Siargao Surprises: Magpupungko Tidal Flats, Pacifico Beach & Taktak Falls

2012-01-03T12:17:00.001+08:00

Taktak Falls in Santa Monica

While most travelers gravitate to the southeastern coasts of General Luna and Cloud Nine for surfing and island-hopping, northern Siargao's rough roads lead to surprising finds: uncrowded surf breaks, turquoise tidal pools and lush waterfalls.

Magpupungko Rock

Chasing the December monsoon, we hired a habal-habal (motorbike) at Dapa town for a day to tour the less-visited attractions on the island. Siargao's version of the habal-habal is fashioned with a wooden canopy, not only to shield riders from sun and rain, but to conveniently carry surfboards as well. From Dapa, we looped around the entire island, passing all eight municipalities of Siargao. We shuttled past carabaos (water buffalo), small palm huts and rice fields flanked by verdurous hills. There were also mangrove forests and marshlands, where endangered saltwater crocodiles still live, especially in the town of Del Carmen.

Low tide reveals a turquoise tidal pool at Magpupungko Tidal Flats in Pilar

Our first stop was Magpupungko Tidal Flats and Lagoon in Pilar. Despite the intermittent rains, this seascape still revealed its unique beauty. The area is characterized by a stretch of rocky beach, with strong currents and whirlpools - so it's best to be cautious when taking a dip.

Magpupungko Pool

At one end of the beach are tidal flats. At low tide, the receding waters reveal a "lagoon" - actually a tidal pool - guarded by a large boulder teetering off a small cliff, as if defying gravity. This imposing rock formation gave the place its name, rooted in the Visayan, pungko, meaning "to squat". I suppose the name may very well also refer to waders sitting on the rocky ledges surrounding the crystal pool before taking a swim.

Another hour's ride northwards on unpaved roads lead to Pacifico Beach in San Isidro. We regretted having not spent more time in this incredible stretch of surfing beach, perhaps the most beautiful on mainland Siargao.

Because of its long stretch of clean sand, Pacifico can both be enjoyed by surfers and non-surfers alike, compared to the rocky coastline of Cloud Nine and other surfing spots on Siargao. A few resorts offering rental surfing gear and lessons can be found in the area. This is definitely a beach I've love to revisit.

Pacifico Beach in San Isidro can be enjoyed by surfers and landlubbers alike

After San Isidro, we looped around Burgos, Siargao's northern point. From the coastal road, we could see magnificent surf breaking across lonely beaches. Surfers escaping "Crowd Nine" head here to catch secluded waves.

Eventually, we reached Taktak Falls in Santa Monica, located some 400 meters from the highway. While Taktak make not be as grand as other waterfalls I've seen before, it provided a refreshing change of scenery. Fed by the incessant rains, whitewater pummeled down a large concrete pool. Chased down by strong afternoon rains, we made the long haul back down the southern part of the island back to the town of Dapa. The tourist attractions of northern Siargao are few and far between, but what I enjoyed most was drinking in the bucolic countryside scenery aboard a motorbike as it negotiated muddy roads and braved the temperamental local weather.

A canopied habal-habal

HOW TO GET THERE: A day tour to Magpupungko Tidal Flats and Lagoon (entrance fee: PHP 50), Pacifico Beach and Taktak Falls (entrance fee: PHP5) on habal-habal (motorbike) costs PHP 1,000 with 1-3 persons per bike. Jong-Jong Espinosa is a reliable habal-habal driver we hired - +639498951159.

WHERE TO STAY: Check out my previous Siargao post.

Siargao Hotspots: Cloud Nine & General Luna

2012-01-03T00:00:00.000+08:00

Flung out eastwards to the Pacific Ocean from peninsular Surigao del Norte, the rugged islands of Siargao turn huge swells into the best surf breaks in the archipelago.

The epicenter of this surfing Mecca is Cloud Nine, a laid-back village with rocky coastline where thick, tubular waves form. First discovered by traveling surfers in the late 1980s, this surf spot was named and popularized by American photographer John S. Callahan, who first published a feature on the island in March 1993.

Since then, thousands of international surfers flock to these Pacific islands. While there other quality waves in Siargao, this particular spot is the most accessible and has gained the most publicity, leading to overcrowding especially during the peak season that some have also dubbed it "Crowd Nine".

Local surfers check out the morning surf at Cloud Nine Boardwalk

Non-surfers can also enjoy Siargao, especially when stationed in General Luna town. There's a nice public beach and boulevard in the middle of town. GL is also the jump-off point for island-hopping at the handful of isles offshore, namely, Dakô, Guyam and Naked.

Guyam Island offers some OK snorkeling and a small beach

Naked or Pansukian Island is essentially a sandbar with nothing but clumps of vegetation that provide a resting place for sea birds. Guyam, a smaller island with both sandy and rocky coastlines, has some snorkeling near the reef break. Dakô, meaning "big" in Visayan, is naturally the largest of the three, offering the best stretch of beach and some rental cottages (PHP 200). During our visit, local kids were riding the waves with their short boards and skimboards. This is definitely the best island to eat lunch and linger. On our way back to our resort from Guyam, we stopped by a shoal of crystal clear waters where our bangka anchored for us to take a swim before calling it day well spent.

A young surfer practices at Dakô Island

HOW TO GET THERE: There are direct flights to Siargao from Cebu City. Transport around the island is slightly more expensive than other island destinations, as there is very limited mass transportation (i.e. jeepneys). From Siargao (Sayak) Airport, take a van to transfer to General Luna (PHP 300, 40 mins) or Cloud Nine (PHP 500, 1 hour). If the weather is good, take a motorcycle-for-hire. Share a canopied habal-habal (motorbike) with friends; a motorbike can accommodate 2-3 persons. A habal-habal to Dapa (20 mins) is only around PHP 200, and Cloud Nine is P500 for example.

Native cottages at Jadestar Lodge

WHERE TO STAY & EAT: Budget non-surfers are better off staying at General Luna town or "GL" than Cloud Nine. GL has sandy beaches, and serves as a jump-off point for island-hopping to Dakô, Guyam and Naked Islands.

Jadestar Lodge is an old favorite with non-AC cottages at PHP 600, good for four. The resort can arrange island-hopping day tours; boat rate at PHP 1,500, up to 10 pax. They can prepare generous lunches for island hopping as well for PHP 100/pax. Rental motorbikes available at PHP 500 per day (excluding gas). Rental vans available at PHP 4,000 per day. Contact Anita Quintas at +639192344367.

Habal-habal from Jadestar Lodge to Cloud Nine is PHP 30/pax. For budget meals, check out Laida's Restaurant, across the Cloud Nine Boardwalk. Laida's - home to champion surfer siblings - offers board rentals at PHP 500/day (or only PHP 900 for three days), and lessons at PHP 300/hour.

Local children play at General Luna's beachfront

The biggest town is Dapa, where ferries to/from Surigao City and Socorro (jump-off point to Sohoton National Park) dock. Very cheap accommodation can be found here - MNRB Pension House along Jacinto St (only few minutes walk from the pier) has non-AC doubles starting at PHP 250. Mobile: +639215135306.

For great food, don't miss homey Decolores Restaurant along Sto. Niño St; they have affordable breakfasts (eg. tapsilog for PHP 45) and oh-so-delicious fish and chips (a platter for three for only PHP 180).

Only Dapa town has ATMs - Green Bank and Cantilan Bank.

Bucas Grande Islands: Secrets of Sohoton National Park

2012-01-02T17:29:00.001+08:00

Boats enter the cove through a low-hanging cave. Sohoton is Visayan for "to go under"

To exit Magkukuob Cave, one has to jump off a cliff!

South of the surfing Mecca of Siargao, at the Bucas Grande Islands, is a national park that's slowly making a name in the tourist circuit for its unique seascapes. Not to be confused with the natural bridge and cave system in Samar of the same name, Sohoton National Park of Surigao del Norte consists of several emerald lagoons surrounded by broccoli-like karst islands. They're similar to the ones in Hundred Islands National Park in Pangasinan but more densely covered in foliage.

As our knowledgeable tour guide pointed out, some of them are covered in magcono (ironwood), which yields one of the hardest timber, and, surprisingly, also red and yellow pitcher plants, dangling over the water! I've always thought these carnivorous flora were only found inland in higher elevations.

The only way to enter the main cove by boat is through a low-ceilinged cave, a process which gave the park it's name, sohoton, which is Cebuano for "to go under". The cove harbors some islets and is bordered by dense foliage and rock formations, such the Dagongdong Rock Formation, a tall, white cliff face believed to be the home of engkantos (forest spirits); and a strange rock shaped like a horse's leg.

Satellite image of Sohoton National Park from Google Earth

There are also around a dozen caves in the area, some of them largely unexplored. Two along the water's edge called Hagukan and Magkukuob are popular with tourists. The first one, Hagukan, is named after the snoring sound (haguk in Cebuano) the water makes as it passes through its entrance when the tide is high. One has to swim into the entrance of the cave, covered in shellfish. Sunlight from the outside brightens up the cave through the turquoise water.

Magkukuob, on the other hand, has more impressive stalactites and stalagmites, which one has to climb up through to get to the cave's exit, located some 20 feet above the water, explaining why it's nicknamed the "Diving Cave". As the most exciting part of the tour, one has to jump off a wooden platform and plunge into the lagoon to return to the boat!

Horseshoe Rock Formation

After leaving the visitor's center, we stopped by the mouth of the national park for some snorkeling. The coral formations were impressive, hosting colorful fish. We spotted a crown-of-thorns starfish snacking on table coral!

Entrance to Sohoton National Park

HOW TO GET THERE: One can go to Sohoton National Park from Siargao Island or from mainland Surigao del Norte. Day trips from General Luna or Cloud Nine in Siargao Island to Sohoton National Park costs at least PHP 4,500 (up to 10 pax, return). Some resorts (like Jadestar Lodge) may include a side trip to the islands of Dakô, Guyam and Naked. This is great if you're pressed for time, but I believe these islands deserve a separate day tour.

A cheaper option, especially if you are a small group, is to go via Socorro town in Bucas Grande Island. From Siargao Island, take a ferry at Dapa pier to Socorro (PHP 100, 1.5 hours). First trip leaves at 8:00 AM daily. At Socorro, hire a bangka (outrigger boat) to Sohoton National Park. Depending on the capacity, boat rates are between PHP 1,300 to 2,000. We hired a boat for P1,700 (up to 8pax, return) from Charrie Quiriban +639198223128.

Upon arrival at the visitor's center at the park entrance, one has to pay several fees to tour the sights, including hiring another smaller boat to explore the cove:

• Entrance fee: PHP 25/pax
• Environmental fee: PHP 25/pax
• Life vest and helmet: PHP 40/pax
• Docking fee: PHP 100-200, depending on the size of your boat
• Table charge (optional, if you're eating at the visitor's center): PHP 50
• Pumpboat: PHP 500, up to 8 pax
• Tour guide: PHP 330/boat

Our small group of three people spent a total of P1,130 (P377/pax) to tour the park for an hour or so. For inquiries, contact Nesan Canta +639214285854 or Vincent Tamayo +639308028704.

Sohoton National Park offers impressive snorkeling near the mouth of the cove

WHERE TO STAY: There are a few high-end resorts located within Sohoton Cove, like Hidden Island Resort and Club Tara Island Resort. But the budget-conscious can opt for cheaper stays at the town proper. The last trip back to Dapa from Socorro was 1PM, so we spent the night in town to catch the first trip next morning at 6AM. Island Vacations Country Inn, a newly built hostel few minutes walk from the pier, offers clean dorm-style AC rooms for only PHP 250/pax. Address: A. Taruc corner Burgos Sts Socorro, Surigao del Norte. Mobile: +639199897331. Free wifi zone (unavailable during our visit).

BEST TIME TO SEE THE STINGLESS JELLYFISH? Unfortunately, one of the highlights of Sohoton Cove, the stingless jellyfish likened to the ones in Palau, were not around during our visit. Apparently, they are seasonal and move from one part of the cove to another; the staff said they were around from March to October.

Goodbye 2011, Hello 2012!

2012-01-01T19:52:00.000+08:00

The year that has passed, 2011, has been the most incredible for EAZY TRAVELER, which this year finally had its own domain (www.eazytraveler.com).

Aside from continuing to contribute stories for SMILE of Cebu Pacific Air, I've begun writing for Travel 3Sixty of AirAsia as well. My feature on Myanmar's Inle Lake even landed on the cover!

Abroad, we chased some of the most violent volcanoes in Indonesia; survived the streets of Kolkata, picked tea at the Himalayan foothills of Darjeeling, and cruised down the Ganges River in northern India; and immersed in the exotic wonders of Myanmar.

Back home, we reveled at the festivals of the Black Nazarene, Sto. Niño de Tondo, Dinagyang and Kadayawan in Manila, Iloilo and Davao; we visited the ancient fire mummies of Benguet, the whalesharks of Cebu, the traditional musicians of Maguindanao, and the dreamweavers of Lake Sebu; and we savored the best seascapes in the country: El Nido, Hundred Islands, Pagudpud, Siargao, Sarangani and Tawi-Tawi.

To the great friends I’ve made online and on the road, a big THANK YOU for joining the roller coaster ride. Cheers to yet another year filled with travel and adventure – HAVE AN AWESOME 2012 EVERYONE!

Swimming with Oslob’s Whalesharks (Tukî)

2011-12-31T22:09:00.002+08:00

A juvenile whale shark comes up to the surface to feed

While whale sharks (Rhincodon typus), locally known as tukî in Cebuano, are occasionally seen in Visayan waters, it’s only in recent months that a group has been sighted frequently off the southeast coast of Cebu. Almost a dozen animals have checked in off the coast of Oslob since October 2011. While most of them are 12 to 15 feet long juveniles, a large adult measuring over 27 feet in length reportedly shows up occasionally. Their appearance has began drawing tourists who hire small fishing canoes to get up close to these fascinating leviathans.

Whale shark watching in Oslob, Cebu

Whale sharks are the largest extant fish species, living in tropical seas throughout the world. They can grow up to over 40 feet in length! The rich waters of the Philippine archipelago are feeding and birthing grounds for this vulnerable species.

While conservationists frown upon the current practice by local fishermen of hand-feeding whale sharks with uyap (small shrimp) as it might adversely affect their behavior, what’s admirable is how local fishermen have learned to appreciate and value this endangered marine animal, which used to be hunted down. “Before, we regarded them as a nuisance since they eat the uyap we use to lure fish,” explains one of the fishermen-turned-tourist guide. Hopefully, a more sustainable eco-tourism framework will soon be put in place to steward these gentle giants for visitors. According to a news report, Oslob is planning to make and implement an ordinance to protect the whale sharks.

Watch whale sharks responsibly: KEEP YOUR DISTANCE & NEVER TOUCH THE ANIMAL

HOW TO GET THERE: Take a bus at the Cebu City south bus terminal to Brgy. Tan-awan, Oslob (PHP 147, 2.5 hours). Watch out for resorts with whale shark watching signboards along the highway. As of the time of writing, there are no standard rates for the whaleshark boat tour. The best deal we found was through Marilyn Resort - +639065869895. It’s best to make reservations at least two days in advance. Boat rental: 200 per head, 40 minutes, 1-2 persons/boat. Snorkel for rent at PHP 100. No life vests are provided.

SWIM WITH WHALE SHARKS RESPONSIBLY. Even if not enforced, strictly follow these international whale shark watching guidelines:

• Do not attempt to touch, ride, or chase a whale shark

• Do not restrict normal movement or behavior of the shark

• Maintain a minimum distance of three meters from the whale shark

• Do not use flash photography

• Do not use underwater motorized diver propulsions

Psychedelic Firefly Watching in Puerto Princesa

2011-12-21T16:27:00.000+08:00

“Everyday is Christmas here,” our boatman muses, as he coaxes the fireflies with the red light from his cellophane-covered torch. The conspicuous insects respond, lighting up the mangrove just like a Christmas tree. It was late in the evening and we were the last to be toured, so we had the entire river to ourselves. My friends and I sat still in the bangka (outrigger canoe), steeping ourselves in the somewhat soothing pitch-black darkness and, occasionally, letting out irrepressible ooohs and aaaahs at nature’s light show.

Enjoy nature's light show along the Iwahig River in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

The 45-minute Iwahig River Firefly Watching Tour takes visitors through 1.5 kilometers of the Iwahig River, also known as Balsahan River in Barangay Irawan, half an hour from the city center of Puerto Princesa in Palawan. Launched by the ABS-CBN Foundations and the government in October 2008, this award-winning eco-tourism project is now managed by the local community. This is one of the legacies of the late environmental activist Gerry Ortega, who was assassinated in January 2011 allegedly because of his anti-mining advocacy in Palawan.

Visitors wait for their turn to take the boat tour

The clusters of fireflies along the mangrove riverbanks are complemented by the omnipresence of bioluminescent plankton in the brackish water. They glow green when the water is disturbed, as our canoe slips into the eerie stillness of the river. Overhead, the night sky performs its own psychedelic light show, as constellations, planets and shooting stars convene for a bravado. If a chill night over San Miguel Beer and tamilok ceviche is your only picture of Puerto Princesa’s nightlife, think again.

HOW TO GET THERE: There are direct flights from Manila to Puerto Princesa. From the city, one can hire a tricycle to Iwahig River (30 to 45 mins, PHP 600 return, up to 4 pax).

The firefly watching operates from 6 to 10 pm daily. The 45-minute boat tour costs PHP 600 (3 persons per boat). Make reservations especially during holidays and weekends: +63 9185725598. Look for Nelia David. Flash photography is not permitted during the tour. Free-wifi available at the site entrance!

Weaving Hope in Maguindanao

2011-12-16T13:24:00.001+08:00

A young weaver at Al Jamelah Weaving Center, Datu Odin Sinsuat

As I write this, another bomb blast rocks the politically volatile province of Maguindanao in central Mindanao less than two weeks after our visit. A name stained by corruption, violence and impunity magnified by the press, we forget that "Maguindanao" stands for a rich ethnic culture that forms a significant part of our Philippine heritage. The Maguindanao, which means "people of the flood plains", are part of the larger Islamic Moro ethnic group, the sixth largest in the Philippines. Their populations are concentrated in the province of Maguindanao, where ethno-religious insurgents and warring political clans have unfortunately, for decades, impoverished a place that, otherwise, possesses a wealth of history and culture. Islamic faith and customs are traced back to the 15th century when Arab-Malay preacher Shariff Muhammad Kabungsuan arrived from Malacca and founded a sultanate centered in present-day Cotabato City.

At Datu Odin Sinsuat, a municipality bordering the city, we met a family of Maguindanaon cultural workers struggling to preserve the fading practices of inaul weaving and playing traditional music. Haji Bai Aleizzah Albaya B. Wampa - or "Ate Alby", as she wanted us to call her - founded the Al Jamelah Weaving Center primarily to teach young disadvantaged mothers how to earn a living by learning the age-old craft of inaul weaving. Young weavers from the local community patiently master their skills on wooden hand looms, creating both indigenous and modern designs.

Founder Bai Albaya Wampa (second from right) joins in playing traditional Maguindanaon music

Inaul is a Maguindanaon handwoven fabric most often used as tubular skirt called malong traditionally worn by both men and women. Its colors symbolize different values and emotions: yellow and orange represent royalty while red means bravery. Green signified peace and tranquillity, while white, the color of purity, reflects sadness and mourning. And, lastly, black means dignity. As a malong, inaul becomes a versatile piece of clothing that can be fashioned into men's trousers, a turban or a baby cradle, among other things.

The weaving sells a variety of inaul products, like these scarves (PHP 650 each)

Like most indigenous cultures and traditions, the art of inaul weaving is quickly fading away in the face of modernization and the indifference of younger generations. Hitting two birds with one stone, Albaya seeks to preserve a fast disappearing heritage by providing livelihood to the underprivileged. "We teach them how to weave so our traditions will live on," she says. Besides weaving inaul, the center also sews traditional Maguindanaon decorations used during weddings, festivals and other special occasions. These include colorful flags, sail-like curtains and other trimmings made from brightly colored fabric and sequins.

An impromptu musical performance led by cultural worker Akmad Wampa

To entertain us, Ate Alby invited us to watch an impromptu performance of Maguindanaon music, led by his brother Akmad Wampa, who despite feeling ill insisted on playing for us. "Music is my passion," he asserted. Akmad, who leads a community dance troupe for underprivileged and out-of-school youth in the community, was joined by septuagenarian musicians Dayang and Amina Baraguir, who are expert inaul weavers as well. At one corner of the center are a set of traditional brass gongs set on intricately carved wooden frames. They played different rhythms on the kulintang (xylophone-like gongs), gandingan (hanging gongs), agong (large single gong) and dabakan (drum).

Akmad was generous in sharing how music played a role in traditional Maguindanao society. A most intriguing anecdote he shared was how young lovers in the past would bypass strict social norms and manage to secretly convey their mutual affection for each other through their gong playing. On that note, I hope that through the Wampa family's love affair with Maguindanaon culture and arts, this colorful facet of Filipino identity will continue to thrive and inspire for generations to come.

A mosque in Ampatuan town, en route to Cotabato City from General Santos

HOW TO GET THERE: Al Jamelah Weaving Center is located across the municipal suboffice near Tamontaka Bridge in Datu Odin Sinsuat, along the border of Cotabato City. There are direct flights from Manila to Cotabato. The Cotabato City Airport (Awang Airport) is actually located in Brgy. Awang, Datu Odin Sinsuat, ten minutes away from the weaving center. Ride a tricycle to the highway (PHP 7), then a Cotabato-bound jeepney (PHP 8). Mobile: +63 9177851737.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Cotabato City and neighboring municipalities of Maguindanao (i.e. Datu Odin Sinsuat) can be safely explored during the day. However, due to the political volatility of neighboring provinces such as North Cotabato and Maguindanao, occasional bombings of public areas, and infrequent cases of kidnap for ransom, it is strongly advised to take a local guide, especially if you are a foreigner. For tourist assistance, contact the Department of Tourism - Regional Office XII, Tel no. +6364 4211110. Address: 2nd Flr., Hua Hing Bldg., #17 Sinsuat Ave

For other sights, see my DIY walking tour of Cotabato City and Datu Odin Sinsuat.

Kabayan, Benguet - Abode of the Fire Mummies

2011-12-12T14:48:00.009+08:00

Ever since my first visits to the Baguio Museum as a child, I've been fascinated by the fire mummies of the Ibaloi people in Kabayan, Benguet. More than two decades after, a spontaneous weekend hiking trip with fellow blogger Christine Fernandez of Adventures of a Jovial Wanderer and a college friend finally brought me face to face with these ancient wonders in their hometown of Kabayan, Benguet.

Fire Mummies of Mt. Timbac, 500 to 1,000 years old

Ten hours worth of bus rides from Manila via Baguio City will take you to the remote town of Kabayan - the epicenter of the Ibaloi, one of the indigenous highland peoples who live in the Cordillera mountain range. Before seeing the mummies at Timbac, there are a couple of sights worth checking out in Kabayan poblacion, namely the Opdas Mass Burial Site and Kabayan National Museum. Discovered by Ibaloi hunter Banan Berong in 1971, the Opdas Mass Burial Site is the final resting place of over 200 ancient Ibaloi individuals who lived some seven centuries ago. Piles of skulls are displayed on stone shelves designed during a major renovation in 1991. Meanwhile, a small mummy from Pongasan Cave is displayed at the modest National Museum branch at Kabayan town, together with other artifacts of Luzon's highland tribes.

Pathway to the mummy caves of Mt. Timbac

Some of the best mummies, however, that may be viewed by visitors are a long hike from Kabayan town to Mt. Timbac - the fog-capped third highest peak of Luzon - lording over the hamlet. Aside from the mummies, the grueling climb from Kabayan town to Timbac caves entertains hikers with majestic views of the Agno river valley and a stopover at the Tinongchol Burial Rock, a three-storey high boulder where ancient Ibaloi carved out holes to inter their dead in wooden coffins.

Majestic views of Agno river valley along the hiking route

Believed to be 500 to 1,000 years old, the Kabayan mummies are entombed in oval and rectangular-shaped hardwood coffins hidden away within "caves" - actually cramp rock shelters - along steep mountain slopes. Some of the coffins have anthropomorphic and geometric designs etched on the outer surface. And traditional tattoos have been preserved on some mummies. The Ibaloi people mummified their dead by smoking them dry, hence, the nickname "fire mummies". The World Monuments Fund website explains the mummification process: "Dying members of the tribe drank salty mixtures to begin the process. After death, their bodies were cleansed, rubbed with herbs, and heated while their mouths were filled with smoke. These steps were performed continually over a period of weeks before the deceased were placed fetal position into oval-shaped wooden coffins with decorative carvings. These practices endured until the arrival of Spanish colonialists in 1500 and the caves themselves remained untouched until the 19th century."

Stopover at Tinongchol Burial Rock

Unfortunately, many of the mummy caves have been vandalized or looted to be sold in the black market. To protect them, the locations of the 50 to 80 caves are known only to Ibaloi elders. According to recent reports, the mummies are also being attacked by natural agents such as water, rodent mites, insects and mold. Tribal beliefs hinder the transfer of these mummies to another location to prevent their further deterioration. Some Timbac mummies were on display at Kabayan National Museum, but "asked" to be returned to their original site, our Ibaloi hiking guide explained. While mummification is no longer practiced, present-day Ibaloi consider the mummy caves as sacred and still perform rituals in the area.

Ascending Mt. Timbac through cauliflower terraces and pine forests

HOW TO GET THERE: From Manila, take a Victory Liner bus to Baguio City (AC, 5 hours, PHP 455). A Liner buses (formerly Norton Bus) bound for Kabayan (non-AC, 5 hours, PHP 135) depart at 10:00 AM and 12:00 PM daily at the Slaughterhouse bus terminal along Magsaysay. Upon arriving in Kabayan, make you sure you register at the tourism desk of the police station, near the municipal hall. In town, there's the Opdas Mass Burial Site (entrance fee: PHP 50) and Kabayan National Museum (PHP 20).

The Timbac Mummy Caves (entrance fee: PHP 40) are a grueling five to seven hour uphill hike along paved roads and dirt trails up Mt. Timbac - the third highest peak in Luzon. Take a guide: I recommend Ibaloi guide Vince "Bobot" Gapuz - Mobile: +63 9198524410, Email: vincegapuz@yahoo.com. Standard guide rate to Timbac mummy caves is PHP 1,000 for 1-5 pax.

To save time, we hired a jeepney (PHP 1,700) from a vegetable dealer's house halfway along the trail to take us to the jump-off to the caves and then down to KM 55 along Halsema Highway, where we hailed a GL Bus back to Baguio City (non-AC, 2 hours, PHP 80). During the dry season, tour groups can hire a jeepney or 4X4 from Kabayan town to Timbac Caves for PHP 2,500 to 3,000. You can arrange this with the tourism assistance desk at the police station.

The shortcut route - only a two-hour 6 km hike - to Timbac mummy caves can be done by entering from the junction at KM 55 along Halsema Highway. There's a welcome sign directing visitors to the caves at the junction.

For a map, altitude profile and other trail details, check out this blog entry by Lagataw.com.

WHERE TO STAY: At Kabayan poblacion, the only place to stay is the Kabayan Coop Lodge, which has cozy dorm-style rooms (with shared T/B) at only PHP 200 per head.

Opdas Mass Burial Site at Kabayan poblacion, discovered in 1971

REMINDERS:

1. The culturally sensitive way to visit the Timbac mummies is to hire an Ibaloi guide from Kabayan town; and to register and pay the entrance fee at the official caretaker's house near the caves.

2. Mummy caves are sacred sites for the Ibaloi people. Avoid making loud noises and horsing around at the burial sites. Ask permission from your guide before taking photographs.

3. Respect the dead and prevent further deterioration of the mummies by refraining from touching them.

Ormoc City: Sweet Pineapples, WW-II Ruins and a Placid Lake

2011-12-09T14:22:00.009+08:00

Lake Danao National Park - a guitar-shaped lake in upland Ormoc

After spending a few days exploring the beaches, lakes and caves of Camotes Islands (Cebu), I took a spontaneous detour to Ormoc City in Leyte before going back home to Cebu City due to its proximity to the islands. From Santiago Beach, I hired a habal-habal (motorbike) to take me to Puertobello pier in Tudela, where I caught a lantsa (ferryboat) to Ormoc via Ponson Island.

The downtown area of Ormoc is pretty much like every other Philippine city with its buzzing tricycles and grimy streets. There are only a few things to see in the city. There's the Dominador Tan ruins from World War II near the floodway. And, at night, the seaside BBQ Park is a relaxing place to enjoy quintessential Visayan grill of meat or seafood.

Giant mussels (tab) fresh from Lake Danao

Since the massive flashflood of 1991 that killed over 6,000 people, Ormoc has been pretty much low-key these past two decades. But, on a positive note, I've long known that this port city has some of the sweetest "Queen" pineapples in the country, which I grew up eating in Cebu. You can see rows of stalls selling the spiky produce whole near the bus terminal, and vendors hawking skewered slices downtown. The best bargains, however, are found at the warehouse of Ormoc Farmers, Inc. (OFI) at 806 C. Aviles St, where fruits can be sold, depending on the grade, to as cheap as P8 per fruit! Upon my mother's request, I ended up lugging around 12 pineapples back home after the trip.

Sen. Dominador Tan Ruins are remnants of WW-II

The most pleasant surprise of the spontaneous stopover, however, was visiting Lake Danao National Park just located 30 minutes away from the city center. A northbound jeepney dropped me off a turn-off where a habal-habal took me through an uphill dirt road to the lake. Along the way, there were interesting views of geothermal power plants releasing steam in between the faraway forests. Lake Lanao is a "guitar-shaped" body of freshwater three kilometers long at an elevation of 2,100 feet (640 m) above sea level. The motorbike driver took me to a viewpoint overlooking the lake, then offered to become my boat guide as well for a quick paddle around the foggy lake.

Ormoc's Pride - the sweetest Queen pineapples

Lakeside vendors sold pako (edible fern) and large freshwater mussels called tab with soft yellow flesh like stuck out like tongues. Because of their tab-ang or bland taste, these mussels are best enjoyed adobo-style flavored with soy sauce, vinegar and spices. After the boat ride, I ended my lake visit with a hefty serving of adobong tab with rice before heading back to the port to catch a fastcraft home.

HOW TO GET THERE: There are direct flights to Ormoc from Manila. By sea, there are fast crafts between Ormoc and Cebu City: http://www.supercat.com.ph/destinations.asp

Why Travel with VISA Debit Card? [SP]

2011-12-07T17:56:00.003+08:00

My trip to Singapore last September gave me the first opportunity to use a debit card while traveling. It was fun and exciting to experience firsthand the benefits of traveling with VISA Debit Card.

With the VISA logo, your ATM card from your bank of choice is also a VISA Debit Card that you can use for convenient cashless transactions around the world that instantly debits from your bank account back home. VISA Debit Cards provide you with the choice to ”buy now and pay now”, compared to Visa credit products which allows you to ”buy now and pay later”.

Using VISA Debit Card provides a more SECURE, RESPONSIBLE and CONVENIENT way to pay, compared to cash or credit.

Here are the benefits of using a VISA Debit Card in greater detail:

• It can be a valuable financial management tool for budgeting, monitoring funds on deposit and for keeping track of spending.

• Just like a credit card it can be used at the point of sale to pay for purchases at various merchant locations like restaurants, gas stations, department stores and hotels

• Visa Debit cards are accepted worldwide in more than 200 countries and territories as well as on the internet when you go online shopping

• Visa Debit cards allow access to foreign currency from ATMs around the world that carry the Visa logo

• Debit cards are tied to the cardholder’s existing checking or savings bank account. Thus, for example, when a cardholder uses his debit card to pay in a restaurant, the amount automatically gets deducted from his bank account

• There are no monthly payments or debt accrued

• Debit cards can be used in ATMs to withdraw cash just like an ATM card

• Debit cards are perfect for students and the young professionals who frequently need cash for various purchases at the point of sale or online

When using VISA Debit Card, take note of these practical tips:

• Keep sales receipts as reference

• Remember to account for any bank fees that may apply

• Review statements carefully. If a cardholder suspects a mistake, he must contact the bank that issued him the card as soon as possible

• Always follow up with a confirmation letter for the bank; this would eliminate suspicions of identity theft

For more of Visa’s financial literacy materials visit www.practicalmoneyskills.com.

Disclaimer: This is a sponsored post. While the advertiser provided the topic, this blog post - while based on a press release - is supported by firsthand experience with the product or service. I accept advertisers as long as they are relevant to travel, adventure, outdoors and tourism. For advertising inquiries, please send me an e-mail at eazy@eazytraveler.com

DIY Walking Tour - Cotabato City & Datu Odin Sinsuat (Maguindanao)

2011-12-05T10:12:00.012+08:00

Location: Cotabato City & Datu Odin Sinsuat (Maguindanao)

Starting Point: Old Cotabato City Hall, Cotabato City

End Point: Lourdes Grotto, Datu Odin Sinsuat

Distance: 10 km

Duration: 8 hours

While not part of the region, Cotabato City is the administrative center of the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (ARMM). Geographically located at the heart of Maguindanao province, which it is politically independent from, it sits on the river delta of the Rio Grande de Mindanao, the second largest river system in the Philippines.

Once the center of the Sultanate of Maguindanao and later on occupied by the Spaniards in the late 19th century, the city is a convergence of Muslim and Christian Filipino cultures, with a diverse population of Moro indigenous people, such as the Maguindanao, Maranao and Iranun, as well as Christian migrants from Luzon and Visayas.

Cotabato City and neighboring municipalities of Maguindanao (i.e. Datu Odin Sinsuat) can be safely explored during the day. However, due to the political volatility of neighboring provinces such as North Cotabato and Maguindanao, occasional bombings of public areas, and infrequent cases of kidnap for ransom, it is strongly advised to take a local guide, especially if you are a foreigner (contact details of tourism office below). This "walking tour" involves exploring clusters of sights on foot and taking public transportation.

Sultan Hadji Hassanal Bolkiah Masjid, largest mosque in the country - Cotabato City

• Start your tour at the Old Cotabato City Hall, a century old structure inspired by Maguindaoan art. The Maguindanao are one of the Muslim tribes of the much larger Moro ethnic group.

• Walk down Sinsuat Avenue to the Sultan Kudarat Monument, where you can start your climb up Pedro Colina (PC) Hill, once the tantawan or lookout of Sultan Kudarat, the 17th century Muslim ruler who successfully opposed Spanish colonization. A marker at the small park at the top explains the history of the hill. While most of the overlooking views of Cotabato City have been obstructed by houses, one can catch a glimpse from the balcony of one of the police quarters. Just ask for permission.

View from Pedro Colina Hill, Cotabato City

• Descend the hill to its base where you can find Kutawato Cave, which gave the city its name. It is the only cave in the country found in the middle of a city.

• Time for lunch! Ride a jeepney or habal-habal motorbike to the corner of Sinsuat Avenue, then another jeepney bound for Awang. Tell the driver to drop you off at Aling Precy, a homey eatery best known for beef sinina, a tasty Muslim beef dish stewed in turmeric and other spices. Cotabato City is also known for its crabs; the restaurant only serves them through an advanced order (PHP 500/kg).

Beef sinina (Muslim-style beef stew) at Aling Precy - Cotabato City

• Hop on a southbound Awang jeepney again and alight at the Husky bus terminal. Across this is the road to Sultan Hadji Hassanal Bolkiah Masjid (Grand Mosque), 5 km away. Ride a habal-habal motorbike (PHP 100 return, with waiting time). Funded by the King of Brunei, the newly built mosque costs $48 million to build. With a capacity of 1,200 people, it is the grandest in the country.

Tamontaka Church, center of the first Christian settlement - Cotabato City

• Return to Sinsuat Ave and walk to Tamontaka Church. Established in 1872 by the Spaniards, the Immaculate Conception Church (Tamontaka Church) was the center of the first Christian settlement in Cotabato City. The original structure was completely destroyed by major earthquake and a politically-motivated arson fire in 1976 and 1994, and the one that stands today is a much less beautiful reconstruction. However, its historico-cultural value makes it worth a visit. According to a long-time resident, the original image of the Virgin Mary (which was stolen before the fire) was miraculous. Before the earthquake, the image was said to have evacuated the church on its own, and was seen walking back into the church by a Muslim resident after the disaster.

Traditional Maguindaoan music at Datu Odin Sinsuat, Maguindanao

• If you have extra time, there are a couple of interesting places to visit past the Tamontaka Bridge, which has a good view of Tamontaka River. This river is part of Rio Grande de Mindanao (Mindanao River), the second largest river system in the country. On the other side of the river is the municipality of Datu Odin Sinsuat in Maguindanao province, where Awang Airport is located. Al Jamelah Weaving Center is a short walk across the Datu Odin Sinusuat Municipal Suboffice, after the bridge. Here, you can watch how the traditional Maguindanaon handwoven fabric called inaul is made. Occasionally, there are cultural performances for visitors. Best to inform them of your visit in advance: +63 9176427611.

Purple herons at Lourdes Grotto, Datu Odin Sinsuat, Maguindanao

• Another sight is the Lourdes Grotto (entrance: PHP 10), 1 km south of the bridge (catch the Awang jeepney), a Roman Catholic compound with lots of greenery, playgrounds , a mini zoo and, of course, a grotto. Hop on a northbound Awang jeepney to return to the center of Cotabato City.

IMPORTANT REMINDERS:

1. Due to infrequent cases of kidnap for ransom by insurgent groups and other lawless elements, foreigners are strongly advised to monitor the current situation before their visit and to take a local guide with them. Military presence throughout the city maintains the peace and order. For tourist assistance, contact the Department of Tourism - Regional Office XII, Tel no. +6364 4211110. Address: 2nd Flr., Hua Hing Bldg., #17 Sinsuat Ave

2. Stick to main thoroughfares, and do this tour only during the day. Do not travel around Cotabato City at night, without a trusted local companion.

4. Dress down conservatively, especially when visiting religious sights both Christian and Muslim. Keep an eye on your belongings. Be alert: watch out for hold-uppers and other lawless elements.

HOW TO GET THERE: There are direct flights from Manila to Cotabato City. The airport is located at Brgy. Awang in the neighboring municipality of Datu Odin Sinsuat, Maguindanao. By land, the safer route to Cotabato City by bus is from Davao City, via North Cotabato province. The route from General Santos City (Husky bus, PHP 250) is riskier since it passes through politically volatile areas in Maguindanao province.

WHERE TO STAY: Grand Rio Hotel, near Weena bus terminal (where you can find buses bound for Davao City) and South Seas Mall, offers clean and spacious accommodation at a central location. Rooms for two start at PHP 600/night. Address: #80 Don Rufino Alonzo Ave. Telefax: +6364 421-8770; Cellphone: +63 9196555167.

Temples of Bagan: Myanmar's Stupa-fying Heritage

2011-11-25T14:51:00.006+08:00

Panorama of Temples of Bagan, Myanmar (Burma) on CleVR.com

It was 4:00 AM when we reached the township of Nyaung U, gateway to the Bagan Temples. As with the most part of our 11-hour bus ride from the capital of Yangon, it was pitch black here. The inn we visited would be charging us for a night's stay if we checked in before sunrise, so we decided to watch the day break from a vantage point first, as one of the horse cart drivers we met at the bus terminal suggested. We trotted away from Nyaung U to the open fields. I could barely make out the surroundings. The silhouettes of trees and what I thought were small temples melted into an amorphous backdrop.

A friendly smile brightens up Sulamani Temple

An hour later, the shapeless shadows defined themselves as sunlight dappled the sky from light blue to tangerine. Atop a large stone platform above some ruins, Bagan gracefully unraveled its glory - a 360-degree expanse of over 4,400 temples peppered across a dusty plain flanked by the mighty Ayeyarwaddy River. The expansive heritage site could easily rival more popular ancient monuments such as Angkor Wat, Borobodur or even the Great Wall, if it wasn't for the political isolation of the country, ruled by a military junta.

Dhammayangyi Temple, the largest among the temples of Bagan

Later, a teenage Burmese girl named Htay Htay joined us to admire the sunrise. Her family looks after some of the nearby temples. Together with her younger brother Ko Ko, she invited us to visit her home where her relatives showed us how to don a longyi (a plaid tube skirt similar to the Philippine malong) and wear thanaka (a natural cosmetic made from tree bark worn by both men and women). Meeting Htay Htay's family was one of the best experiences from our week-long Myanmar trip.

Htay Htay's family taught us how to wear longyi and thanaka.

Can you distinguish the locals from the wannabes?

Covering an area of over 40 sq km, a majority of the temples were built between the 11th and 13th centuries, when Bagan was the capital of the first empire in Burma. Visiting every temple will take forever, so most visitors hire a horse cart to visit the most popular edifices. Most of us in the group opted to rent a bike, while the rest got a horse cart. The most impressive structures were Thatbyinnyu Temple (the tallest), Dhammayangyi Temple (the largest, and because of its pyramidical shape, looks like a Mayan temple), Sulamani Temple, Ananda Temple, Mahabodhi Temple (modeled after the original in India), and Bupaya Pagoda.

A schoolboy biking home at Nyaung U

While horse cart tours are a convenient way to see the major temples, biking provides the opportunity to explore the temples at your own pace. On the second day, we rode a bike from Nyaung U to New Bagan, stopping by small temples along the way that afforded us secluded views from atop their spires. It was exciting to hunt for a way to climb the temples, looking for small passageways and stairwells that led to a vantage point overlooking the vast fields punctuated by countless stupas.

Bupaya Pagoda along the Ayeyarwaddy River

Aside from touring the grounds on bicycle or horse cart, riding a boat down the Ayeyarwaddy offers a different perspective of the temples. From the riverside Bupaya Pagoda, we boarded a motorized longboat with took us on an hour-long tour upriver. Aside from the ancient temples peeking above the treeline, we admired the the riverside villages and teak monasteries. Our boat floated past villagers washing their laundry and taking a swim in the river. Whether it be by horse cart, bicycle or boat, Bagan will surely not disappoint even the most obsessive of temple-holics.

For information on how to get there, check out my seven-day itinerary in Myanmar.

DIY Walking Tour - Zamboanga City

2011-11-22T16:56:00.007+08:00

Location: Zamboanga City (Downtown)

Starting Point: Rio Hondo

End Point: Cawa-Cawa Boulevard

Distance: 2 km

Duration: 3 hours

Owing to its prominent Spanish heritage, the city of Zamboanga in Western Mindanao is dubbed "Asia's Latin City". A significant aspect is the Spanish creole called Chabacano spoken primarily by the Christianized population. However, the city is cultural crossroad shaped by centuries of immigration and colonization. The settlement was established as early as the 12th century, with the earliest inhabitants being the Subanen, an indigenous tribe of Malay Origin. Later on, Islamized tribes such as the Tausug, Samal, Badjao and Yakan arrived. The Spanish colonizers arrived in 1569, having chosen the settlement as the site of a strategic fortification against Muslim pirates and foreign invaders.

• The adventurous can start the walk at Rio Hondo, a stilted Muslim village where you can admire how pre-Spanish Zamboanga would have looked like. Due to safety issues, explore this area with a local guide. More information here.

• Stroll to Fort Pilar - or, in full, Real Fuerza de Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza (Royal Fort of Our Lady of the Pillar of Zaragoza) - a Spanish fortification established in 1635 in honor of the patron virgin of Spain, Our Lady of the Pillar. The fort houses a branch of the National Museum (Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm;

Saturdays, Sundays and holidays by appointment) that showcases endemic marine life and archaeological finds from an 18th century shipwreck.

• Nearby is Paseo del Mar, a seaside parkway lined opened in 2009 with views of the Moro Gulf, Basilan province and Santa Cruz Islands. Return to this spot at night, when the place comes alive with al fresco dining and live bands.

• En route to the Zamboanga City Hall, drop by Lantaka Hotel by the Sea - a 50-year-old seaside hotel that grew from an American Officers Club. Sample their mouth-watering seafood dishes at the restaurant. Try the Zamboanga specialty, curacha (red frog crab)!

• Admire the period structures surrounding the Plaza Rizal: Zamboanga City Hall (built 1905 to 1907), Plaza Manila Building (est. 1928) and Plaza Pershing (est. 1915). Originally known as “Plaza de Don Juan de Salcedo” in honor of a 16th century Spanish conquistadores, Plaza Pershing was renamed in 1915 in memory of General John J. “Blackjack” Pershing, former governor of the Moro province.

• End your walk at Cawa-Cawa Boulevard (presently Gov. Lim Avenue) - best enjoyed during sunset. Another option to end your walk is to catch a jeepney bound for Sinunuc at the public market to get to the Yakan Weaving Village, 7km away. Or catch a jeepney to Brgy. Mercedes, where you can take a motorbike to the Taluksangay Mosque (est. 1885), the oldest mosque in Western Mindanao.

Plaza Rizal, Plaza Manila Building & Zamboanga City Hall

Young villagers at Rio Hondo

Royal Fort of Our Lady of the Pillar of Zaragoza

Taluksangay Mosque

Reminders:

1. Foreigners are strongly advised to take a local guide, most especially when visiting Rio Hondo village. For tourist assistance, contact the Department of Tourism - Regional Office IX, located at Lantaka Hotel by the Sea, Tel no. +6362 992 6242.

2. Do this walk only during the day. Best to avoid walking around alone at night, especially if you are not familiar with the city.

3. Despite its proximity to Basilan Island, Zamboanga City is not a stronghold of the Abu Sayyaf terrorist group. However, stay relaxed yet be alert and maintain a low profile when exploring the city.

4. Dress down conservatively. Keep an eye on your belongings - watch out for touts, beggars, pickpockets and other lawless elements.

Iloilo's Underworld: Bulabog Puti-an National Park

2011-11-15T17:31:00.006+08:00

Philippine Orange Tarantula (Selenobrachys philippinus), endemic to Panay & Negros

Covering an area of 854 hectares, the Bulabog Puti-an National Park in Dingle, Iloilo, Philippines is a nature reserve with limestone outcrops and 34 caves. It is home to monkeys, wild chickens, 18 bat species, endemic snails, and native orchids. Because of a strong, sudden downpour, I spent a night in this park en route to Roxas City. The forest ranger offered me to stay at one the huts at the park entrance.

Entrance to Bulabog Puti-an National Park

Early the next morning, we set out to visit some of the caves following an old mining trail flanked by century-old dao (New Guinea walnut) trees. Maestranza Cave is a historical site of revolutionary leader Don Francisco Jalandoni's headquarters and ammunition factory during the turn-of-the-century Filipino-American War. Spanish graffiti - which my guide misattributed as Latin - were scribbled across the walls by Jalandoni and his men. One of them read: El que ama verdaderamente a su patria no mira su provecho propio (He who truly loves his country does not see his own advantage). Another patriotic message read: Los Republicanos Juran Morir Antes Que Entregarse (The Republicans Swear To Die Before Surrendering). Meanwhile, smallish Tuko Cave boasts of phallic formations (as with many caves in the Philippines).

But the most exciting spot was Guizo Cave - the largest cave system in the park - which harbors strange critters like giant crickets, tailless whip scorpions and orange tarantulas! Prized by spider collectors all over the world for its rarity and beauty, the Philippine Orange Tarantula (Selenobrachys philippinus) is found only in the islands of Negros and Panay. They possess a mild venom and their bite can be very painful. So scrambling through a pitch-dark cave armed with nothing but flashlights was pretty unsettling. Guizo Cave was also home to hundreds of bats. We observed some juveniles up close, roosting in the crevices of the low-hanging ceilings. It was my first time to encounter such a diversity of wildlife inside a cave system.

Entrance to Guizo Cave

How to Get There: From Iloilo City, hop on a public bus bound for Roxas City and alight at Dingle town (1 hour). Motorbikes (habal-habal) or tricycles can take you to the entrance of the park. Barebones accommodation available at the park entrance. Ask for a mosquito coil, or wear repellant lotion at night.

Gold of Ancestors: Pre-colonial Filipinos were 'Kings of Bling'

2011-10-25T12:51:00.008+08:00

"Filipinos were the original kings of bling!" I overheard an American visitor exclaim at the Ayala Museum in Makati City last weekend when he beheld over a thousand ancient artifacts made of 22 to 24 karat gold. They are from the 10th to 13th centuries, a time when the archipelago was ruled by many small kingdoms that flourished, establishing trade links with the Far East and Southeast Asia to as far away as India and Persia. I was well aware of the rich culture of pre-Hispanic Philippines, but I did not expect such exquisite and extensive proof to have survived to this day.

Gold image of a kinnari - a half-woman, half-bird creature in Hindu-Buddhist mythology

Gold of the Ancestors, a priceless collection of pre-Spanish Era gold artifacts from around the Philippines, was truly the most breathtaking and enlightening exhibit at the museum, providing tangible proof of the breadth and richness of the Philippines' cultural influences before Spanish colonization. More than their weight in gold, I was overwhelmed by the artistic and historical value of the collection, which is the most impressive archaeological exhibit in the country.

I first learned about the golden treasures of pre-Hispanic Philippines from history class back in college. I remember seeing illustrations from the Boxer Codex, a 16th century manuscript, depicting pre-colonial Filipinos heavily adorned with gold ornaments.

The 16th century Boxer Codex depicting Filipino noblemen decked in gold

A significant part of the collection belongs to the "Surigao Treasure" accidentally discovered in 1981 by a bulldozer operator working on an irrigation project in Surigao del Norte. There are also gold artifacts on display recovered from other excavations across the archipelago: Camarines Sur, Mindoro, Eastern Visayas and Agusan, to name a few. The most spectacular pieces on display were ear ornaments with garuda designs, identical to the ones I've seen as stone carvings at ancient temples in Indonesia; delicate burial masks from Butuan; the image of a kinnari, a deity that's half-woman, half-bird; and a ceremonial cord (as illustrated in the Boxer Codex) made of woven gold wires that weighed almost four kilograms!

The piece de resistance: a ceremonial sash weighing almost four kilograms!

HOW TO GET THERE: Alight at the Ayala MRT Station, and take a 15 minute walk to Greenbelt Park. Ayala Museum is located at Makati Ave corner Dela Rosa St, Makati City. View location map here. Entrance for resident/non-resident of the Philippines (Ground to Fourth Level: PHP 225/425. One-year membership: PHP 500. For more information, visit http://www.ayalamuseum.org

Photographs: Ayala Museum (Gold Artifacts) & Wikipedia (Boxer Codex)

Tawi-Tawi: Pearl of the South

2011-10-18T19:06:00.001+08:00

The following is a commissioned article I wrote for this month's issue (October 2011) of SMILE, the in-flight magazine of Cebu Pacific Air. You may browse the magazine online at http://www.cebusmile.com

My prayers on Bud Bongao — the sacred peak that juts out beyond Tawi-Tawi’s provincial capital skyline — were answered. On my last day, the weather ripened to give me my only opportunity to venture further south to the final frontier of Sitangkai. With the blessings of Juana Sahali — the governor’s wife and provincial tourism council chairwoman — who graciously hosted my visit, our speedboat ripped across the white-capped currents, sea spray seasoning the smiles on our sun- toasted faces.

Bud Bongao guarding the provincial capital

Like the lonesome sailfin of some undersea leviathan, Bud Bongao’s limestone karsts shrank to a blue grey silhouette in the endless ocean. The day before, we ascended its summit with bananas in hand to bribe the simian mafia for a hassle-free passage. While mostly a seascape of stilted houses, mushroom islets, coral reefs and sandbars, Tawi-Tawi’s smattering of formations inland are equally impressive, especially on the main islands of Bongao and Sanga-Sanga where rocky outcrops punctuate the skyline, hosting populations of wild animals such as tropical birds, fruit bats and monkeys.

One of Bud Bongao's mischievous residents

“Conquering Bongao Peak is a place that grants you unforgettable encounters with its resident long-tailed macaques in the heart of several tampats (sacred places in Islam) in the forest,” says travel photographer Ferdz Decena, who has visited the province twice out of sheer curiosity. During my climb, a Tausug mother joined us, carrying her infant son to the peak so as to win him good health. Aside from the expansive views at the top, Bud Bongao offers a cultural glimpse at the customs of the Muslim Tawi-Tawians, who scale the peak to offer prayers with the guidance of an imam (priest) at the shrouded royal tombs.

Pakistani pilgrims at Sheik Makhdum Mosque, oldest in the country built in 1380.

True to its name rooted in the Indo-Malay word “jaui,” meaning “far away,” the archipelagic province of 307 islands is most suited for those seeking an adventure, worlds away from the mainstream tourism circuit. More than its geographical isolation, the ethno-political insurgency marring the rest of the Sulu Archipelago also prevents the influx of tourists enjoyed by the country’s more popular frontiers like Palawan and Batanes. Even the mere mention of visiting Tawi-Tawi is always met by anxious reactions. By monitoring current affairs and seeking the guidance of locals, you can make visiting this untapped corner of the archipelago a safe and enriching experience. The province’s rich combination of Malay-Islamic heritage, sea-oriented cultures and incredible natural vistas, at high and low tides, make it a unique tourist destination that is unmatched by any other spot in the country.

Badjao elder weaving tepo (pandan mat)

While the province is comprised of mostly Sama-Badjao people, succeeding settlers such as the Tausug from Sulu, Christian migrants from the rest of the country, as well as Chinese merchants from Sabah, Malaysia have continued to shape a vibrant and harmonious society. “Surprisingly, people respect each other here despite the difference in religion,” adds Decena. “At first I thought Tawi-Tawi was a purely Muslim area, but different religions coexist peacefully here.” Joining him for bukah — the daily sunset meal that breaks the fast during Ramadan — at his stately home in Bongao, Governor Hadji Sadikul Sahali shared the insights he has gleaned from leading this province for a total of 10 years since 1998. “Peace is made possible in Tawi-Tawi, not because of arms or authority,” he reveals, “but because we all choose to live in harmony, whatever our creed or culture.”

Remnants of an ancient land bridge, this island chain now swathed in swift currents, has served as stepping stones of civilization for a millennia. In fact, archaeological excavations at the Bolobok Rock Shelter in Sanga-Sanga Island yielded Neolithic tools made of stone, shell and animal bone, which peg Tawi-Tawi’s prehistory to more than 9,000 years ago, when the first inhabitants arrived. Later on, the Sama majority — including their “sea-gypsy” cousins, the Sama Dilaut or Badjao — arrived in Tawi-Tawi more than 1,000 years ago, tracing their ancestries to as far away as Johor, Malaysia. According to Sama-Badjao folklore, they reached the Philippine islands when a chieftain secured the boathouses of his villagers to a mooring pole and, upon sticking it to the seabed, accidentally poked the eye of a sleeping giant stingray, which awoke and swam away, towing their boathouses along with it.

Badjao women wearing herbal facial whitener called 'borak'

Under the protection of the Srivijayan Empire based in Sumatra, Arab traders eventually reached Philippine shores by the 12th century, trading linen, wool, metalwork and bullion with Chinese silk, porcelain, camphor and spices. Arab missionaries led by Sheik Karimul Makhdum who established the first mosque in the country at Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island in 1380, introduced the Islam faith to the people more than 140 years before the advent of Ferdinand Magellan and the Spanish colonization. A mystic sufisaid to have been endowed with magical powers, Sheik Makhdum could walk on water and fly through the air. He was extremely tall as well. Behind the mosque, a sandy grave mound said to cover the actual length of his body measures more than 8ft long. Others believe Makhdum was buried in Sibutu Island, where another tomb of the pioneering missionary can be found.

Sitangkai - 'The Venice of the Philippines' - the southernmost frontier of the country

Past the floating wharf where larger passenger ferries dock, our speedboat finally ran aground a couple of kilometers off Sitangkai, in knee-deep shallows covered in sea grass, orange starfish and black urchins. My guides and I hopped on a passing motorized canoe to better negotiate the low tide and reach the main village. Built over a vast sandbank off a sliver of land only 14km away from Borneo, Sitangkai is an unconventional town. It’s a water- world free of any form of wheeled transport, and navigable only by foot across narrow catwalks linking stilted houses, or by wooden longboats called tempel on canals that give the Sama settlement its nickname, the “Venice of the Philippines.” Offshore, Badjao fishermen unfurl their white sails to catch the morning’s first breath.

In Tawi-Tawi, I realized that one could be geographically farthest as can be from Philippine civilization, yet closest to the heart of its legends, traditions and culture. For visitor assistance, please contact provincial tourism officer Salve Pescadera at +63 (910) 671 6367 or +63 (939) 837 3221.