Serious Eats: New York

Annisa Destroyed By Fire: Anita Lo Vows to Rebuild

2009-07-06T00:45:19Z

We got an e-mail alerting us to a fire that destroyed the first-rate restaurant Annisa. I e-mailed Annisa chef-restaurateur Anita Lo for confirmation. She responded quickly: "Yes, we had a terrible kitchen fire in the early hours of July 4th, after everyone was gone. The fire marshall hasn't come yet, so we don't know what started it. And yes, we are going to rebuild--hopefully better than before." Our thoughts and prayers are with Anita and the entire Annisa staff.

Joey Chestnut Wins Again at the 2009 Nathan's International Hot Dog Eating Contest

2009-07-05T18:00:26Z

Yesterday morning in Coney Island, thousands of cheering people crowded the corner of Surf and Stillwell Avenue. But these cheers were not for independence—no, they were for something greater. Something meatier. Something log-shaped.

Hot dogs—more specifically, lots of hot dogs being shoveled down many gullets at the same time within a ten-minute period. This is the scene of Nathan's International Hot Dog Eating Contest, the oldest (since 1916) and most famous eating competition in America.

Joey Chestnut garnered first place for the third year in a row, at the same time breaking the world record by eating 68 hot dogs, or HDBs (shorthand for hot dog and buns in the competitive eating world), in ten minutes. Takeru Kobayashi came in second with a still-nauseatingly-high 64 and a half hot dogs. In third place was Patrick Bertoletti, who ate a mere 55 hot dogs. And let's not forget about the female champion Sonya Thomas, who set a new women's world record by chowing down 41 hot dogs. (For the full results, visit nathansfamous.com.)

I just summed up the whole contest for you. Somewhat. If you don't think you'll ever make it to the big day, here a more detailed look at the contest with lots of photos, after the jump.

If you want a decent view, you have to get there earlier than around 10:30 when the above photo was taken. The contest doesn't start until 12:30—die-hard fans are ready to endure hours of standing to see their heroes in action. Some of them came wearing hot dog-related costumes or wielding homemade posters. My favorite poster said, "Pandas for KOBAYASHI."

There's pre-competition entertainment in case pure anticipation of watching mass hot-dog-face-stuffing isn't enough to keep your attention. One of my friends said the entertainment was better this year than last. There was live music, world-class trampoline jumpers, performers from Ringling Bros. Circus (including some dachshunds; of course, that's what I took a photo of), a kid's Hot Dog Eating Contest where the contestants tried to eat as neatly as possible, cheerleaders who shot T-shirts into the audience, the Coney Island Strongman who lay on a bed of nails while holding an anvil and getting hit with sledgehammers, and more.

From left: Juliet Lee, Sonya Thomas.

The two women of the contest, Juliet Lee and Sonya Thomas, were brought out to a cheering crowd. Rock on, slim Asian women!

A special award for gas guzzling (not the real name; that may have been the "Carbon Footprint Award") was giving to the man who drove the most in the past year to attend hot dog eating contests.

Judges and contestants finally took to the stage minutes before the contest was to begin, with Chestnut and Kobayashi in the center. A few minutes before, a giant screen to the side of the stage showed Chestnut and Kobayashi sitting next to each other backstage looking about as excited as they would be if they were waiting at the DMV. There didn't seem to be any pre-contest jitters; it was just another year of eating an inhumanly large amount of hot dogs.

And they're off!

In the first 40 seconds, Chestnut and Kobayashi down seven hot dogs. About a minute later, Chestnut eats another nine hot dogs, Kobayashi another eight. (This is about the time when any desire I had to eat a hot dog has disappeared.) Four minutes in, they're in the 30s. Seven minutes in, Chestnut is in the lead with 53 hot dogs, with Kobayashi at 50. Chestnut hits the 60 mark with one and a half minutes left.

With two seconds left, Chestnut and his belly of 68 hot dogs gives a fist pump of victory, subsequently followed by the slump over of, "Oh god, there are 68 hot dogs in my belly."

Chestnut, draped in an American flag, raises his first place trophy to the cheering crowd.

Kobayashi may have finished second place with his 64 and a half hot dogs, but it's still his personal best. Here he shows off his distended belly to his fans.

In an interview with ESPN right after his win, Chestnut says he had the capacity to eat more than 70 hot dogs. Maybe next year. And what was for dinner that night? "Probably a Cobb salad. Something with ranch on it."

USA Wins! Joey Chestnut Defeats Kobayashi at Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest!
Nathan's Hot Dog Eating Contest Shortened to Ten Minutes
Bar-Graphing Nathan's Hot Dog Eating Champs

This Weekend in 'New York Times' Food News

2009-07-05T16:00:07Z

The Paris Bistro: The new bistro is inventive, affordable, and reliable.

Japanese Baseball: Attending a ball game in Japan is an opportunity to cheer nonstop, try takoyaki, and slurp soba noodles.

Dip Revolution: Dip no longer entails "sour cream mixed with Lipton onion soup mix, served almost exclusively with Ruffles potato chips."

Taste of Slovenia: The Karst, a limestone plateau bordering the Friuli region of Italy, has a rich culinary tradition and thriving agricultural tourism.

Urban Farming: Will Allen is bringing good food to the city with 14 greenhouses packed onto two acres in a Milwaukee working-class neighborhood.

Travel: Lobster Benedict and veal in Provincetown; 36 hours in Madison, Wisconsin; the Junction section of Toronto is home to artisanal chocolates and a "living foods" cafe.

BioMio in Copenhagen: It's an "entirely organic restaurant ," in which every aspect, from the wait staff’s Fairtrade organic cotton uniforms to the ventilation system, is thought through in terms of environmental sustainability.

An Urban Homestead: An Oakland family makes jam and pasta, cans tomatoes, and makes their own charcuterie.

Feeding NYC Kids: Summer meals are available to all children under 19, "regardless of their family income or whether they live in the city, to ensure that they have access to nutritious meals."

Dark ‘n’ Stormy: The Bermudan cocktail is all the rage these days in New York City.

Red Chilaquiles With Chicken: Chilaquiles is a stove top tortilla casserole with salsa, and sometimes chicken and eggs.

Smörgåsboard: Roast Pork; Beet Carpaccio; Onion Sandwich

2009-07-03T13:00:00Z

Photograph by bionicgrrl

Densely packed tub of roast pork and vegetables with rice for only $2.50 from Wah Fung [Bionic Bites]
Beet Carpaccio with baby artichokes, watercress, and pine nut-crusted goat cheese from Po [A Passion for Food]
Overly mayonnaised James Beard Onion Sandwich on crust-less bread with fried chicken livers from Prune [FoodMayhem]
Three kinds of beets with blue cheese and pumpernickel "soil" from Klee Brasserie [Writing with My Mouth Full]

NYC Food Events for the Weekend (and Beyond)

2009-07-02T21:45:00Z

Takeru Kobayashi and Joey Chestnut competing in Nathan's Hot Dog-Eating Contest 2008 during overtime.

Nathan's Famous International Hot Dog Eating Contest
Saturday, July 4, 12 p.m.-1 p.m.
The 94th annual contest is doubly intense this year as defending champion Joey Chestnut seeks to keep his title against Takeru Kobayashi, six-time winner. For those staying at home, you can also watch it live on ESPN. The record to beat? Fifty nine hot dogs. Free admission, but get there early for a good view. Nathan's Famous, 1310 Surf Avenue at Stillwell Avenue, Coney Island (map); event website

Blaue Gans PIG OUT!
Saturday, July 4, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Join this Austrian joint for their second annual all-you-can-eat feast with whole roasted pig, sausages, salads, and a Viennese Cake Bar. Tickets $35/person. 139 Duane St. (between Church Street and West Broadway) (map); event website

Pig Roast and Camp Out at Queens County Farm
Saturday, July 4-Sunday, July 5, 5 p.m. to 11:00 a.m.
Marlow & Daughter's Tom Mylan roasting a whole pig to accompany pulled pork sandwiches, and pies and other yummies from Sweet Deliverance. With a DJ, old school games like flashlight tag, and a farm-fresh breakfast the next morning, this is one tasty sleepover. FYI, it's BYOT (bring your own tent). Tickets $80/person. Queens County Farm Museum,
73-50 Little Neck Parkway, Floral Park (map); event website

Wine Film Festival at Enoteca on Court
Sundays June 28-July 26, 7:30 p.m.
Enjoy outdoor screenings of wine-themed films on Sundays this summer in Enoteca on Court's garden. If you love Keanu, "A Walk in the Clouds" will screen July 26. 347 Court Street, Brooklyn; (map); event website

Ommegang Brewery Presents Fight Club!
Monday, July 6, 6 p.m.-8 p.m.
Taste four craft ales paired with cheese at The Bell House. Additionally, Ommegang pints will be $3 all night! . $10/person. The Bell House, 149 7th Street between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, Gowanus Brooklyn (map); event website

Hudson Square Music & Wine Festival
Tuesday, July 7, 5 p.m.-7 p.m.
At the city's only non-park free concert series, City Winery sells its first wines made in New York in accompaniment with the weekly barbecue. There's live music, a wine and beer garden, and Thunder Pickles from the organic Katchkie Farm. Free admission. City Winery parking lot, 155 Varick Street between Spring and Vandam Streets (map); event website

After the jump, the street fairs.

Street Fairs

Saturday, July 4
The Great July 4th Festival: Water St b/n Broad and Fulton Streets; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Sixth Avenue Festival: 6th Avenue b/n 14th and 23rd Streets; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Stone Street Fourth of July Celebration: Stone St b/n Coenties Alley and Hanover Square; 12 p.m.–11 p.m.

Woodside Festival: Woodside Ave b/n Roosevelt Avenue and 63rd Street, Woodside Queens; 11 a.m.–6 p.m.

Sunday, July 5
Lexington Avenue Festival: Lexington Ave b/n 34th and 42nd Streets; 11 a.m.–6 p.m.

USO Avenue of the Americas Summerfest: Sixth Avenue between 42nd and 56th Streets; 10 a.m.–6 p.m.

Sugar Rush: Sweets at DBGB

2009-07-02T20:15:02Z

After dinner at DBGB last week, Ed, Robyn and I shared a trio of desserts. I tried to pick a favorite, as I always do when a crowd of sweets land at the table. But really, such a task is difficult when the options are so varied and equally tempting. First, a coffee-caramel sundae, complete with crumbled chocolate cookies, brownies, candied pecans, a tower of fluffy fresh whipped cream and chocolate sauce. It's hard to lose with such a pairing—who could refuse coffee, chocolate, and caramel smothered into one delicious mess of a sundae cup? If this particular combination doesn't strike your fancy, sundae combos are also offered with base flavors of kreik beer-cherry and apricot-pistachio. Ice cream by the scoop is also available. DBGB doesn't serve the top ice cream in the city, but is better than average—the texture is simply lovely, but flavors could be more aggressive.

On the lighter end is a strawberry and mascarpone tart, with berry-ginger ice cream on the side. Simple and clean cut, the tart is outfitted in a mascarpone base with sliced, fresh strawberries, gently macerated. Ginger in the ice cream provides a subtle and haunting kick, with the berry element clearly dominating the flavor profile. A fine, if not too memorable summer dessert.

The most "fun" by far was the Omelette Norvegienne, a baked Alaska flambéed tableside with Chartreuse. The chilly sweet incorporated vanilla, raspberry and verbena ice creams with an outer layer of sponge cake. Ice cream and all is enrobed in a billowy coat of fresh meringue flambéed a deep golden shade. It's the first time I've had baked alaska in ages—such delicious fun it was to poke my fork through multiple layers of meringue, cake and ice cream! More restaurants ought to bring back this dessert—or at least a modern day interpretation of one.

DBGB

299 Bowery, New York NY 10003 (at East 1st Street; map)
212-460-5777
danielnyc.com

Dom DeMarco Undergoing Minor Oral Surgery; Di Fara Pizza Closed Indefinitely

2009-07-02T19:59:33Z

From Slice

I just got back from a trip to Di Fara to check out unsubstantiated rumors of a Di Fara closing. The pizzeria was indeed closed, but Dom DeMarco's daughter, Maggie, was there and reports that her father was at the doctor for "minor mouth surgery."

~~No word on when the place will reopen. Stay tuned.~~

Update: It has reopened.

Off the Beaten Path: Jackfruit at Tony’s Art on Canal Street

2009-07-02T18:00:00Z

Long ago this Canal Street storefront must have sold art, or more likely knockoff handbags. These days it hawks something far more interesting: fresh jackfruit. The impressive array of huge green fruit looks like something out of a science fiction flick. At first I didn't know what they were. A sign with two Chinese characters and the English word “sweet” indicated that the mystery fruit costs $4 a pound.

When the couple working this hole in the wall told me the ginormous green ovoids were jackfruit, I jumped at the chance to buy some. Not willing to commit to a gigantic wedge, I grabbed a small container. They told me that many people cook the seeds, but that it was fine to eat the fruit itself out of hand, which is exactly what I did as I strolled down Canal Street. I had all intention of taking a closeup of the jackfruit flesh in Sara D. Roosevelt Park, but it was so damn good it was gone long before Grand Street.

Until very recently my experience with this tropical fruit has been limited to gudeg, an Indonesian preparation of young jackfruit stewed with cumin and coriander that bears a startling resemblance to barbecued beef. These fleshy yellow lobes were nothing at all like their younger cousins. They were sweet, but not overly so, and tasted slightly of bananas with a hint of pineapple. And at $2.50 a container, the price was pretty sweet too.

Jackfruit Vendor, aka Tony’s Art

194A Canal Street, New York NY 10013 (map)

Deal of the Day: Pera's Wine and Meze Special

2009-07-02T16:00:05Z

Pera's Wine & Meze special: Bottle of wine and three mezes for $39, until 7pm every night. 303 Madison Avenue (map); 212-878-6301. [via Wined & Dined]

Learn It, Don't Burn It: NYC Food Classes, 7/2 to 7/10

2009-07-02T15:30:00Z

Here's yet another serving of some delicious educational opportunities to get down and dirty for next week. All classes listed still have openings, but if you hear otherwise, please let us know.

Photographs by Robyn Lee

'Punches—The Original Mixed Drink' at Astor Center
Monday, July 6, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., $45
Phil Ward of Mayahuel guides you through the ins and outs of the perfect party drink—punch. Using Flor de Caña rum, Phil will show you various drink recipes, how making punch will save your wallet, and why it will never go out of style.
Astor Center, 399 Lafayette Street (at East 4th Street), Manhattan; 212-674-7501; astorcenternyc.com for info and registration

'Soups and Salads for Summer' at ICE
Tuesday, July 7, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., $105
Forget the stockpot: cold soups paired with refreshing salads make the perfect summer meal. Peter Berley will lead you through some of his favorite recipes, featuring spicy melon soup with crab, chilled avocado soup, quinoa salad, fresh tomato soup with ricotta crostini and basil oil, corn and lobster salad with tarragon, and more.
The Institute of Culinary Education, 50 West 23rd Street (at Sixth Avenue), Manhattan; 800-522-4610; web.iceculinary.com for more info and registration

'Kimchi' at The Brooklyn Kitchen
Tuesday, July 7, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., $45
Korean-Texan Sunny Bang will show you how to make different styles of kimchi, and will have students assist in the production of a kimchi pickle.
Brooklyn Kitchen, 616 Lorimer Street (at Skillman Avenue), Brooklyn; 718-389-2982; thebrooklynkitchen.com for info and registration

A beginner's cheese tasting, Argentine cuisine, and peach lavender jam—after the jump.

'Cheese 101' at Murray's Cheese
Wednesday, July 8, 6:30 to 8 p.m., $50
This is the best way to start your Murray's experience: learning the basics from the knowledgeable and friendly staff, who will feed your budding enthusiasm for cheese. You'll taste fresh, aged, cow, sheep, goat—and plenty more to help you next time you're at the cheese counter.
Murray's Cheese, 254 Bleecker Street (at Sixth Avenue), Manhattan; 212-243.3289; murrayscheese.com for info and registration

'Exploring Latin American Cuisine: Argentina' at Astor Center
Wednesday, July 8, 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., $125
To begin the new series on the varied cuisines of Latin America, Leticia Moreinos will lead this class on making a delicious Argentine meal, drawn from Spanish, Italian, and French cuisines. On the menu: empanadas, marinated skirt steak with chimichurri sauce, Argentine rice croquettes, churros with dulce de leche, and alfajores (traditional South American cookies). While eating your creations, you'll taste various wines straight from Argentina.
Astor Center, 399 Lafayette Street (at East 4th Street), Manhattan; 212-674-7501; astorcenternyc.com for info and registration

'Canning' at Sweet Deliverance Kitchen
Wednesday, July 8, 8 p.m., $40
Learn how to make peach lavender jam and pickled dilly beans from start to finish. You'll witness a demo on canning, pickling, and preserving using the season's best produce.
Sweet Deliverance Kitchen, 1287 Atlantic Avenue (b/n Nostrand Avenue and New York Avenue), Brooklyn; 718-389-2982; thebrooklynkitchen.com for more info and registration

Best Bites: RUB BBQ Burnt Ends

2009-07-02T14:00:00Z

I've said it before and I'll say it again: New York barbecue joints all seem to have one meat that they nail, one dish that is clearly superior to every other meat they cook low and slow. At RUB BBQ that one dish is the burnt ends, or the crazy smoky burnt ends of the fatty half of the brisket. RUB's burnt ends are alternately meaty and fatty, so if you're fat-phobic you should order something else.

Of course if you're fat-phobic you probably wouldn't have walked into RUB or any other barbecue joint in the first place. Don't worry, though. There's plenty of meat, both crusty exterior pieces and tender interior ones, on these burnt ends, and they give you so much Adam and I happily split the burnt ends dinner. If you eat them that way, they are even a bargain.

The burnt ends dinner comes with a choice of two sides and a slice of thick white bread. I like the vinegar cole slaw and the baked beans with mine, but that's just one man's preference.

For dessert, have the bacon chocolate-chip cookie. It's not the greatest chocolate chip cookie you've ever had (far from it, actually), but it is studded with bacon bits smoked and cured in house.

RUB BBQ

208 W 23rd Street, New York NY 10011 (map); 212-524-4300‎; rubbbq.net

Is West Village Joe Jr's About To Be History?

2009-07-02T13:45:00Z

Photographs by Robyn Lee

This just in from United States of Arugula author and serious eater David Kamp:

Ed,
HELP! Just walked past Joe Jr's, my beloved local greasy spoon [Kamp is very fond of greasy spoons. —Ed], and they have big handwritten signs in the window saying they've lost their lease after 35 yrs. They are asking people to sign a petition to save Joe Jr. and to "spread the word," I guess in hopes of pressuring the landlord not to cut them loose.

Could Joe Jr's really be history? Say it ain't so, Joe! Where will hungover serious eaters who live in Greenwich Village go to recuperate?

Joe Jr. Restaurant

482 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (at West 12th Street; map)
212-924-5220

Smörgåsboard: Zucchini Blossoms; Conecake; Soft-boiled Eggs

2009-07-02T13:00:00Z

Cheeseburger from La Cense truck. Photograph from Gastrodamus on Flickr

Start your meal with zucchini blossoms filled with minced blue prawns and scallop mousse, then deep-fried at SHO Shaun Hergatt [The Food Doc]
Blue Hill at Stone Barns' soft-boiled egg, crusted in panko, atop a pea pistou. [Food Mayhem]
The al pastor pork torta from Tacos Matamoros [Fork in the Road]
The Treats Truck's improved conecake features cake (separately baked) layered with frosting in the cone. [Blondie and Brownie]

Deal of the Day: Sake Tasting at Satsko

2009-07-01T21:00:00Z

Wednesday nights at Satsko, get six varieties of premium sake of the restaurant's choosing and complimentary appetizers for $25 ($35 if you want to choose the sake). 45 Eldridge Street, New York NY 10002 (b/n East Houston and Stanton; map); 212-358-7773.

Sugar Rush: Pistachio Blueberry Turnover at Bouchon Bakery

2009-07-01T20:00:00Z

I've never considered the marriage of blueberries and pistachio before, but Bouchon Bakery definitely made it work in this turnover ($3.50). At first you don't even notice the blueberries—which are whole and pop in your mouth, unlike the usual gelatinous kind found in pastries—but they're hiding behind the creamy pistachio clouds inside. It's kind of like a pastry hoagie with two long flaky slices, topped with pistachio bits for an extra crunch, holding all the goodness inside. This is definitely a two-handed responsibility.

Bouchon Bakery

10 Columbus Circle, New York NY 10019 (at 59th Street, third floor; map)
212-823-9363
bouchonbakery.com