EQ | Epicurean Quest

Pie All-Nighter, Prize Winning Day

Tue, 20 Sep 2011 08:38:00 +0000

Our favorite Runaway Mormon Girl Elizabeth Lovins introduced two new lookers at the KCRW "Good Food" Pie Contest Sunday at LACMA — The Black Betty Berry and The Saucy Suzy Chick. As a returning 2010 finalist in the Cream pie category (Coco Chanel Coconut Cream Pie), Lovins' venture into the crowded Fruit category and the Savory gamut required months of study and strategic consultation with the best of local purveyors to fill her pies with distinction. In fact, it took the village of Los Feliz to turn out these two special pies.

Lovins loves her morning Gibraltar coffee and baking banter with pastry goddess Katherine Anne at the Deli at Little Dom's. Here she learns the key to the tender, flaky crust she so desires after test rounds of recipes by Thomas Keller, Nigella Lawson, and Alice Waters -- 25% lard and 75% butter. But not just any butter. It had to be Beurremont or nothing, which she finally stumbles upon across the street at McCalls.

When Lovins tells proprietor Nathan McCall that she's interested in a blackberry pie, he steers her to the Padwill Farms stand at local farmers markets, swearing upon their sweetness. To enhance the berries and deepen the flavor, she visits our Barnsdall-Friday-night-heavy-pour pals at Silver Lake Wine for a cabernet sauvignon recommendation (Cannonball) to macerate the berries in, along with lime zest, lime juice, Nielsen-Massey vanilla paste, sugar and freshly powdered ginger from the Spice Station on Sunset.

The Spice Station also provides the tapioca pearls that Lovins experiments with as a thickening agent. The tapioca starch proves to be fatally soupy while the tapioca pearls leave gelatinous gobs throughout the pie. None of this will do. Corn starch might result in a thick, cloying filling, so she decides to go with instant tapioca for the competition. The pie needs 6 hours to cool down and set up after baking, so she begins the Black Betty Berry process at 3 am on Sunday as the pies need to be delivered between 11am - 1pm that day.

The transition from an auspicious Saturday evening of art openings in Chinatown to late night pie workhorse is smoothed by a midnight-hour cup of coffee with friends and side of mashed potatoes at the Brite Spot.

At the same time, Lovins begins the stock for her chicken pot pie. The Saucy Suzy Chick is based on Thomas Keller's chicken pot pie recipe in the Ad Hoc cookbook. Again, Nathan McCall provides the chicken source and code for the stock — chicken carcass (cook 40-50 minutes), then add the breasts (cook 15-20 minutes more), then two legs (another 15-20 minutes). He also recommends a saucy modification on TK's bechamel in the pie -- substitute 1 of the cups of milk with chicken broth.

By 8 am the blackberry pie is cooling and now it's time to make the chicken pot pie. Enter yours truly to provide sous-chef support and coffee. The mandolined potatoes and carrots have been parboiled separately in TK's court boullion, celery blanched in salted water and sitting in ice bath, white and dark meat cooked and cooling, so I start on the pearl onions around 9:30 am using TK's method. Cut to 10:30 am when I've now managed to peel and parboil the pear onions per TK. Lovins tends to the bechamel, which is taking forever to thicken. This pie needs about 1 hour to bake and we've got a lot to assemble before we get into the oven.

Once the bechamel is complete, Lovins rolls the dough for the crust while I gingerly (with care not spice) combine the seasoned sauce with the veggies and then with the chicken and then combine those two. By the time we egg wash the bottom crust to seal it from sogginess, put in the filling, get the crust on top and finally pop the potpie into the oven, it's 11:30 am. This leave us one hour on the nose for baking and then speed to LACMA like lunatics to get the pies there by the 1 pm entry cut-off time.

We realize there is a flaw in this plan -- the contest entry states no "hot" pies will be accepted. We're gonna have one steaming mother on our hands. Enter Brett Cody. We task him to make a pie transporter with a built in cooling-system. No problem! He locates a milk crate, fits cardboard on the bottom and lays ice packs from the mini-cooler along the bottom. He then places the wire cooling rack on top of that and zip-ties it to the crate to stabilize it. A kitchen towel goes on top of that so the pie dish won't slide around. Voila!

It's now clear this is going to have to be a pie shuttle situation. The first shuttle leaves with The Black Betty at 12:25 pm while The Saucy Suzy Chick follows behind in Car Number 2 at 12:35 pm. We each race down 6th Street at top-speed and get there with minutes to spare. Saucy Suzy is pretty hot still but there's a long line that gives us 30 minutes more of cooling time -- directly on top of the ice packs.

The competition is fierce this year as the number of entrants and pies seem to have tripled from 2010. In the end, Evan Kleiman does not call out "Lizzie," Betty or Suzy's name, but with all the new learning, local expertise and friends behind her there's no question that Elizabeth Lovins is winning.

Spring Pea and Ricotta Torte with Lemon and Mint via Food52.com

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 21:01:00 +0000

Appropriately green and delicious. Bookmarking this for a spring weekend or even a dish for the Easter holiday dinner.

Spring Pea and Ricotta Torte with Lemon and Mint - Blog - food52 - food community, recipe search and cookbook contests

Mer e Terra

Tue, 19 Oct 2010 01:17:00 +0000

This weekend's fall dinner party menu mixed French and Italian. A fine combo -- we'll hang out near the French/Italian border anytime, especially the environs of Roquebrune or Cap Martin.

The raw materials:

Scallops from McCalls in Los Feliz and Butternut Squash from a local farmer's market.

The result:

Baby Romaine Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette and Salt & Pepper Seared Sea Scallop (U8)

Fresh Pappardelle with Melted Leeks, Roasted Butternut Squash in a Brown Butter Sage Sauce

Recipes follow.

Salade //

Baby Romaine Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette and Salt & Pepper Seared Sea Scallop

Toast 1/3 c. whole hazelnuts (in toaster oven or iron skillet on stove top or in oven) until fragrant, browned, but not burnt. Let cool slightly.

Place hazelnuts in plastic bag and pound with mallet until coarsely chopped. Put in bowl, add 1/2 tsp finely diced shallot, then add 2 tsp Sherry Vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes so the flavors combine. Add about 1/2 cup olive oil (to taste really) & then mix with a fork. The vinaigrette should appear broken and loose, not emulsified. Put aside until ready to compose salad.

Wash/soak baby romaine or any other mild market lettuce with ice cubes in water to crisp (1-3 mins), then remove cubes and spin dry. Pat dry gently with paper towel or tea towel to remove any moisture. Put dried lettuce in bowl and toss with spoonfuls hazelnut vinaigrette until salad is nicely dressed, but not drenched. Plate the salad on individual plates, as you want each serving ready to be crowned with a seared scallop.

Put iron skillet on high heat. Add olive oil. Rinse scallops and pat completely dry. Season each side w/ kosher salt & freshly ground pepper. When oil is smoking, add scallops to the pan, but space them far apart as possible. You may need to cook them in two batches if you have more than 4 or 5 scallops. Cook for 2-3 minutes on first side to get a nice caramelized, crusty sear, then flip with thongs to the other side. Cook for 2 minutes or less. Immediately transfer each scallop to the awaiting salad plate and place on top at an appealing angle.

Primi //

Fresh Pappardelle with Melted Leeks, Roasted Butternut Squash in a Brown Butter Sage Sauce

Heat oven to 450 degrees F. Peel and cut butternut squash into bite-sized cubes. Put cubes in a bowl and toss with olive oil, salt & pepper, and fresh grated nutmeg. Place butternut squash cubes on baking sheet and roast about 30 minutes.

While the butternut squash cooks, begin the leeks. Cut the white part of 2-3 leeks into 1/8-inch thick discs. Rinse in a bowl of water to remove any dirt between layers. Melt 3-4 Tbsp unsalted butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Add leeks to melted butter & season with salt & pepper, fresh thyme leaves if you have them. Cook until they begin to wilt, 5-10 minutes, then add 3 Tbsp water. Once liquid boils, lower heat and cook until liquid is almost evaporated and leeks are very soft, another 10 minutes. Remove from heat, place leeks in a bowl and set aside until later.

Begin cooking water for pasta, lightly salted.

Cut sheets of fresh pasta (I had 8 sheets) into wide pappardelle ribbons. Set aside.

Check butternut squash after 20-25 minutes to see how done it is and turn with spatula. Remove from oven when soft & slightly caramelized, but not burnt. Save for later.

Clean 6-8 large sage leaves with a damp paper towel and then pat completely dry.

Next, cook the fresh pasta. Throw it in the boiling water for between 2-3 minutes -- but no more than 3 minutes! Drain & immediately put in large pasta serving bowl.

In a small saute pan or sauce pan, throw healthful caution to the wind and melt 2 sticks of unsalted butter. Watch the butter closely, once it start to slightly caramelize and turn brown, toss in the sage leaves (they will crackle and spatter in a lively manner), then quickly remove the pan from heat so the brown butter doesn't burn.
Remove the sage leaves with thongs and set aside on a small plate.

Pour the brown butter sauce over the pasta and toss gently until it is thoroughly coated. Add the melted leeks and butternut squash and toss again gently until evenly distributed. Crumble sage leaves over the top.

Enjoy. Start with a Chablis, end with a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and envision the Med.

Lunch Hour: Smokin' Willie's BBQ Truck

Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:25:00 +0000

There's nothing worse than showing up late to a barbecue because of a conference call that went too long, and having only scraps remain. (And missing the raucously fun live honky-tonk pop band to boot.)

Being such a lover of good 'cue, I was ready to hunker down and salvage the last savory bits of pork and potato salad. Luckily, Camille was there to save me from myself and point me in the right direction: Smokin' Willie's BBQ truck was parked just a few steps away down the patio ramp. Enter ray of hope!

The LA food truck sensation has been widely reported by my fellow food bloggers, and with all the local varieties out there we've nearly reached critical mass. So I guess I'm a little late to this party as well. Though I must admit, the Great Hot Dog Letdown of 2008 at the much-lauded Let's Be Frank truck in Culver City left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth for "gourmet" mobile meals.

As I approached the truck, I saw a frenetic Willie drenched in sweat and working overtime to serve the lunch rush. People were no longer ordering, Willie was just maniacally tossing tacos, sliders, and sandwiches out his window. He gave me one look and shouted, "OK, she's gotta get my killer one!!"

What arrived was a no-frills BBQ Meatball Sandwich on a bun with two slices of mozzarella cheese. I appreciated that Willie's meatballs came lightly dressed in his signature tangy barbecue sauce and that the cheese wasn't melted. It was just the right balance for a hot day -- nothing too sticky, sloppy or unwieldy, and the flavors presented themselves in a bright clean way. The meatballs were dense and succulent, as one would hope.

Next up was a Pulled Chiptole Chicken Slider. The first bite had very surprising zingy citrus palate and made me realize what an over-chipotletized world we live in. Well done, Willie -- you've mastered that fine line between flavorful and flavor-overload.

New Concept, High Spirits: Bar Bouchon

Sat, 16 Jan 2010 00:34:00 +0000

Today, I found myself in Beverly Hills before the lunch rush and decided it was high time to pay a visit to Thomas Keller's recently opened Bouchon Beverly Hills.

Thinking I'd try my luck for a lunch reservation or at the very least scope it out for a later date, I arrived to find an unexpected and even more enticing option for the solo patron: the Bar Bouchon wine bar.

Intimate, no reservations taken, a newly crafted small plates menu, and chic outdoor tables alongside a perfect European-inspired garden -- my heart quickened as I eyed up all the empty spaces.

After a quick tour of the stunning and grand bistro upstairs, I decided to grab a seat at the more casual wine bar for lunch.

Bar Bouchon is appointed with all the elements that characterize Bouchon Bistro (and the bistros of Lyon, France, for that matter): the pewter bar, classic bistro mirrors, chalkboard menus, gladiolas, vibrant floor tiles, as well as a window into the kitchen à la Bouchon Bakery.

The bar hosts a modest 8 chairs, plus 6 more at a side counter bar and probably 8 tables outside. The delectable creations by the pastry chef sit atop the end of the bar in glass cake plates near the kitchen. An abbreviated raw bar display of succulent pink shrimp and oysters on an ice bed rests below a variety of vegetables perfectly preserved in glass mason jars.

Dizzy with the thrill for this kind of food and its culture, I felt I had found a new home in LA.

Ryan, Bar Bouchon's manager, and Jesse who was manning the bar gave me the lowdown on Thomas Keller's new concept. Bouchon Bar is the more relaxed cousin (no bow-ties), but same high-quality food as Bouchon, and features a tapas-style menu of smaller plates. They've added a "Jardin" section of vegetable appetizers -- fennel, beets, cauliflower, etc -- and include some of Bouchon's greatest hits: olivade, salmon rillettes, macaroni gratin with truffles, tartines, salads, seafood raw bar, cheeses, charcuterie and special Plats du Jour. I opted for two items on the Plats du Jour menu: a chicken curry tartine and a bowl of cauliflower soup. Both were divine.

The bar is stocked with artisanal and carefully curated spirits. You won't find Grey Goose, Belvedere or any of the well-known premium brands. Instead their vodka choices are Russian Standard and Charbay from California. Beers on tap include White Apron, made for French Laundry by Russian River Brewing Company and Blue Apron, made for Per Se by Brooklyn Brewery. Bar Bouchon also introduces the Vin de Carafe label -- a partnership between Keller's team and various producers and winemakers in the Napa valley -- at a very nice price point. I had the white Vin de Carafe with lunch, which was a very lively and yummy Chardonnay.

Keller opened Bar Bouchon three weeks ago and is testing the concept here in Los Angeles with hopes of expanding the brand and opening in more locations. I, for one, consider us extremely lucky!

Chef Theo Peck's Cook-off Quest

Wed, 13 May 2009 20:28:00 +0000

Cooking competitions are all the rage among New York's young and hyper-social culinary enthusiasts, as reported in today's "Dining In" section of the New York Times.

EQ takes special interest as we covered the cook-off competition circuit in November 2008, interviewing the then newly crowned "King of Casseroles" Chef Theo Peck. The article, "In New York, the Taste of Victory," profiles Peck as the "man to beat," having since acquired three more championship titles and consistently ranking in the Top Two of all cook-offs he has entered.

Peck is characterized as something of a comeback kid as these sweet culinary victories follow a crushing defeat earlier in the Fall when his plans to open his first restaurant in Fort Greene Brooklyn were crushed as his funds fell victim to Bernie Madoff's ponzi scheme. The Times reports:

Mr. Peck, 37, has spent most of his life around the restaurant business. His family owned Ratner’s, the venerable Lower East Side kosher dairy restaurant, where he often worked as a cashier. After college, he and a friend opened the Lansky Lounge in Ratner’s back room, briefly the hottest bar in the newly gentrified neighborhood. He ended up at the New England Culinary Institute and cooked at Blue Hill at Stone Barns and at Hugo’s in Portland, Me.

He returned to New York last year, planning to open his own restaurant in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. He acquired partners and was ready to put up his own money — money he had saved and invested. Unfortunately, he said, it was invested with Bernard Madoff.

“I was devastated,” he said. “I didn’t know what to do.”

Killing time online, he discovered the local competition scene. His girlfriend nudged him to participate.

“She said, ‘Why don’t you just go and do this casserole contest and get your mind off it? You’ll get yourself back in the game a little.’ ”

So Mr. Peck showed up at the Fourth Annual Casserole Party — held last November in a Greenpoint bar — bearing a casserole he had prepared in his Stuyvesant Town apartment. It featured roasted orange cauliflower and thinly sliced purple potatoes, mixed with apples and bacon. He had bound the vegetables with garlic-infused cream and Gruyère, and covered the top with fried onions and crisp shredded phyllo sheets. It took first prize.

Ms. Erway proclaimed Mr. Peck “King of the Cauliflower Casserole.”

Having known Theo for many years, EQ is thrilled to see him in the spotlight. His passion and commitment to cuisine is in his blood. He is a gifted and visionary chef with a very bright future (not to mention highly personable, hilarious, exceptionally telegenic, and primed for a book deal).

Follow Chef Theo Peck on his food blog, Carnivore Hearts Herbivore. And if you're in NYC, don't miss Chef Peck's latest creations at the First Annual Brooklyn Beer Experiment -- a cook-off featuring dishes made with beer, as well as home brewing competition -- on June 7 at the Bell House.

Toronto's Top Locavore

Mon, 04 May 2009 16:15:00 +0000

We were doubly lucky in Toronto to attend the beautiful wedding celebration of our dear friends Jed and Jess, and then feast upon exceptional food at the reception from local purveyors prepared by top Canadian chef Jamie Kennedy.

During the cocktail hour, Jamie manned an open blini bar while chatting with wedding guests. He served up cured local salmon and whitefish on fresh-off-the-griddle blinis with a bed of pickled radishes and topped off with roe.

Jamie is known for being a fervent supporter of cooking with locally produced ingredients and the Slow Food movement in Canada. This is how he approached the wedding menu: everything including the wines (a Syrah and a Riesling) came from the Ontario region.

The dinner featured seasonal standouts including pickled heirloom beets with blue cheese and watercress, a Pistou soup studded with green garlic and fiddlehead ferns, a just-caught Georgian Bay Day Boat whitefish in a Spring herb migonette with leeks, green garlic, and new potatoes, and a roast galantine of capon with spring carrots, braised greens and chive mashed potatoes.

Similar to his wildly successful American celebrity chef counterparts there was evidence of the cottage industry of all things Jamie, from signature bottled water to crystal wine glasses etched with his logo.

1 Birthday, 3 Cakes

Thu, 30 Apr 2009 15:33:00 +0000

This month, my adorable anti-blogging agent, aka "Baby Van," had his first birthday. Given our bicoastal collection of family and dear friends, he was thrown not one, not two, but three different parties to celebrate. Van had a kids patio party in Los Feliz, a family luncheon in Syracuse, NY, and a chic Upper East Side affair in NYC.

Each of the cakes were delicious and very different -- a marble cake molded in a classic Wilton Winnie-the-Pooh cake pan, a rich carrot cake with tangy cream cheese frosting, and a black and white triple layer cake with fresh strawberry filling and whipped cream frosting. See if you can match each cake to its respective party.

Obama's Feast

Tue, 20 Jan 2009 18:16:00 +0000

Care to eat like the most awesome leader to grace the free world who will change the face of our planet as we know it? Here's what Barack Obama is having for his first meal as 44th President of the United States.

OBAMA'S INAUGURAL LUNCHEON MENU
(recipes to follow)

Seafood Stew
paired with Duckhorn Vineyards 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

A Brace of American Birds (Pheasant and Duck)
served with Sour Cherry Chutney and Whipped Molasses Sweet Potatoes
paired with Goldeneye, 2005 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley

Apple Cinnamon Sponge Cake
and Sweet Cream Glacé
paired with Korbel Natural Special Inaugural Cuveé, California Champagne

----------

+ RECIPES, courtesy of the Joint Congressional Committe on Inaugural Ceremonies

First Course

Seafood Stew
Yield: 10 servings
Ingredients
6 (1 Lb) Maine lobsters
20 medium size Sea scallops
36 Large shrimp, peel, cleaned and tail removed, aprox. 2 lbs.
10 (1 oz) pieces of black cod
1/2 cup small dice carrots
1/2 cup small dice celery
1/2 cup small dice leek
1/2 cup small dice Idaho potato
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground white pepper or black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 quart heavy cream
1 cup dry vermouth (can be made without)
10 (5 inch) puff pastry rounds

Equipment
10 (3 1/2 inch) terrines/ramekins or serving dish of your choice

Directions
1. Bring 1 gallon of water to a boil; poach lobsters, then shrimp, then black cod and last scallops. After seafood is cooked, remove from water; reserve water and bring to boil.
2. Cook all vegetables in liquid that was used for the seafood, remove vegetables when tender. Allow the liquid to continue to boil until only 1qt of liquid remains. This will be the base for the sauce.
3. Bring seafood liquid back to a boil and add the vermouth and heavy cream and reduce by half, season with salt, white pepper and nutmeg to taste. You have reached your desired thickness when the sauce will cover the back of a wooden spoon. Set aside to cool.
4. Cut Maine lobster, shrimp and scallops into bite size pieces.
5. Pre-heat oven at 400 degrees.
6. Fold seafood and vegetables into cool sauce, being careful not to mix too much as this will break up the seafood. Scoop mixture into terrines or oven proof baking dish of your choice.
7. Cover terrines with puff pastry rounds, brush them with egg wash and bake them until golden brown about 8-10 minutes, allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving. You can cook this 2-3 hours ahead of time and keep warm at 150 F degrees.
* All seafood can be substituted with other favorite options of your choice and availability.

Second Course

Duck Breast with Cherry Chutney
Yield: 10 servings
Ingredients
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion (1 small)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Scant 1/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper (1/2 medium)
1 plum tomato, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup dry red wine
1 to 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 can (3 cups) Bing cherries, quartered *Oregon brand
1/2 cup Golden Raisins
10 (6 oz.) boneless duck breasts with skin
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or chives  

Method for chutney and glaze
Heat oil in a 2 to 3 quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook onion, garlic, and shallot, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 7 minutes. Add tomato paste, black pepper, cumin, hot pepper flakes, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, 30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium and add bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in wine, vinegar (to taste), and sugar and simmer approx 5 minutes. Stir in mustard, 1 1/2 cups cherries, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and simmer 1 minute. Allow to cool slightly and reserve all but • cup of the mix to the side. Place1/4 cup mix in a blender and puree until very smooth, about 1 minute (use caution when blending hot liquids). Reserve for glazing duck. To finish the chutney, add the remaining 1 • cups of cherries, tarragon, chives and all the golden raisins. Can be prepared one day ahead.
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F. Score duck skin in a crosshatch pattern with a small sharp knife and season duck all over with salt and pepper.
Heat water in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over low heat until hot, then add duck, skin side down. Cook duck, uncovered, over low heat, without turning, until most of fat is rendered(melted) and skin is golden brown, about 25 minutes.
Transfer duck to a plate and discard all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet. Brush duck all over with cherry glaze and return to skillet, skin side up.
Roast duck in oven until thermometer registers 135°F, about 8 minutes for medium-rare. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes.
Holding a sharp knife at a 45-degree angle, cut duck into slices. Serve with cherry chutney and molasses whipped sweet potato.

Herb Roasted Pheasant with Wild Rice Stuffing
Yield: 10 portions
Ingredients
10 Pheasant breast, boneless, remove tenders and reserve for stuffing, cut small pocket in side of breast for stuffing
1/2 cup Olive oil with chopped rosemary, thyme and sage
1 lb. Wild rice, long grain
2 quarts Chicken stock or canned chicken broth
2 Carrots, diced
1/2 Onion, diced
1/2 cup Dried apricot, small diced
1 Tablespoon Salt and pepper mix
2 Tablespoons Garlic, roasted

Directions
1. Boil the rice with the chicken stock, cook until soft and most of the liquid is gone.
2. Add the onion, carrot, garlic and apricot. Cook until the vegetables are soft and all liquid has been absorbed. Refrigerate rice mixture until cold.
3. In a food processor, puree pheasant tenders to a paste consistency to use as a binder for rice mix.
4. When rice is cool, add the pheasant puree to the rice until well mixed. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and return to refrigerator until ready to stuff.
5. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
6. Make 10 small football shaped patties of the rice mix, stuff inside the pheasant, being careful not to overstuff the pheasant. Rub herb/oil mixture on top and bottom of the pheasant, season with salt and pepper. Place the pheasant on a heavy gauge roasting pan and then in a preheated oven for approximately 8-10 minutes. Remove from oven and cover with lid or foil and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Serve over sauté of spinach.
*Pheasant can be substituted with chicken.

Molasses Whipped Sweet Potatoes
Yield: 2 quarts
Ingredients
3 large sweet potatoes, about 3 pounds
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup orange juice
1/2 tablespoon of brown sugar
1 tablespoon of molasses
1 teaspoon of ground cumin
2 tablespoons maple syrup

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Place sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and roast until easily pierced with a fork, about 1 hour.
3. Peel the skin off of the sweet potatoes while still hot.By hand or mixer, smash potatoes until all large chunks are gone. Combine the potatoes, butter, salt, orange juice, brown sugar, ground cumin, molasses and maple syrup in a large bowl. Continue to mix all together until all lumps are gone. Adjust any of the seasonings to your specific tastes. Can be made the day before.

Winter Vegetables
Yield: 10 servings
Ingredients
2 bunches Asparagus, green, bottom 1/3 of stem removed
2 lbs. Carrots, peeled, cut oblong or large dice
1 lb. Baby Brussel Sprouts, fresh,cleaned or frozen can be used
1 lb. Wax Beans, ends snipped
2 oz Butter
1 each Zest from orange
4 oz. Olive oil
Salt and Pepper to taste.
Directions
Asparagus: preheat grill or large heavy bottom sauté pan. Rub 2 oz of olive oil on asparagus and season with pinch of salt and pepper. Lay flat on grill or sauté pan until lightly browned. Using long fork or tongs, rotate the asparagus to brown other sides. Usually 2 or 3 minutes per side. The asparagus is done when you can use a fork to cut through. Do not overcook, this will cause asparagus to become stringy. Keep warm until ready to serve.
Carrots: bring 3 qt salted water to a boil, add carrots to water and cook until fork tender, meaning a fork will easily pass through the carrot. Drain the water from the pot and toss 1 oz butter and zest of orange and mix until carrots are coated. Season with pinch of salt and enjoy. Keep warm until ready to serve.
Brussel Sprouts: For Fresh: Bring 3 qt salted water to a boil, cut into the stem of the sprout with a pairing knife to create an X on the bottom, this will allow the stem to cook more evenly. Place sprout in boiling water and allow to cook until bottom of sprout is tender and easily cut with a knife. Preheat a heavy bottom sauté while the sprouts are cooking. Remove sprouts from water and allow all water to drain completely. Add 2 oz oil to sauté pan and add the sprouts, season with salt and pepper while tossing the sprouts around to evenly brown in the pan. If sprouts are too big, you can cut them in half, keep warm until ready to serve.
For Frozen: Bring 3 qt salted water to a boil and drop frozen brussel sprouts into water, these are precooked so you are only thawing them out. Remove from water and sauté as above.
Yellow Wax beans: bring 3 qt salted water to boil, add snipped wax beans to water and allow to cook until fork tender or to your liking of doneness. Remove from water and toss with 1 oz butter and season with salt and pepper.

Third Course

Cinnamon Apple Sponge Cake
Yield: 10 servings
Ingredients
Apple Filling
4 lbs Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup water
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup apple sauce
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
Grated zest from 1 lemon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Bread Crust
14 tablespoons unsalted butter, melt 10 of tablespoons
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
34 slices brioche bread (or white bread)

Equipment
10 Ceramic baking ramekins or metal molds (3” diameter)

Sauce
2 cups caramel sauce(store bought)
2 cups granny smith apples, peeled, cored, diced small
Pinch sugar
Pinch cinnamon
1 tablespoon butter

Ice Cream
1 quart vanilla ice cream

Preparation:
Filling
1. Melt butter  1. Melt butter in 6-quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Add apples and caramelize, add water, cook, stirring occasionally for 15 to 20 minutes, or until apples are completely soft. Remove cover and add sugar, nutmeg and salt. Increase heat to medium-high and continue to cook, stirring apples frequently, until liquid has completely evaporated, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest, apple sauce and vanilla. Set aside to cool while making crust. The filling can be made one day ahead.
Making crust and assembly
1. Position oven rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 425°F. Grease 8 ceramic dishes with 1 tablespoon butter. Sprinkle sugar in dish and tilt to coat bottom and sides. Tap out excess sugar and set aside.
2. Using a bread knife, remove crusts from bread. Center the bottom of mold over one of the bread squares. Cut around mold to form circle to use as the top. Make a total of 20 of these round pieces. Ten will be for the bottom and 10 will be used for the top. Dip each one in melted butter and place at the bottom of mold.
3. Cut each of the 15 remaining slices of bread into four rectangular pieces. Dip one side of each strip in the melted butter and arrange strips, upright, around the inside of molds, buttered-sides against mold and overlapping by about 1/2” to completely line mold. Use 6 rectangles to line the mold.
4. Spoon the apple filling into bread-lined molds, mounding it slightly in center.
5. Take the remaining ten rounds of bread and dip pieces of bread into the melted butter and place on top of filling, buttered-sides up. Press down lightly.
6. Bake for 30 minutes, then cover top loosely with aluminum foil. Bake for an additional 15-20 minutes, until top is deep golden brown and side slices are golden brown (slide a thin-bladed knife between bread and pan to check). Remove from oven, uncover, and let rest for 15 minutes on wire rack. Run thin-bladed knife around edges of molds to be able to flip the mold out onto serving plates.
7. For the apple cinnamon caramel sauce, sauté 1 cup of peeled and diced Granny Smith apples in butter, add a pinch of sugar and cinnamon. Allow to cook until apples are lightly browned and all sugars have dissolved. Remove from heat and add 2 cups caramel sauce to the apples and stir to coat apples.
To Assemble: Pour caramel apple sauce over warmed apple cakes and serve with your favorite vanilla ice cream.

Talk Soup

Sun, 11 Jan 2009 01:04:00 +0000

The 6th Annual Soupsköl in Aspen, CO, held much promise for steamy cauldrons bubbling over with new flavors as more than 25 local restaurants participated in the competition, but instead we were served up multiple renditions of fowl chowders, tortilla soups, and bisques from the sea. Not to mention the very long lines. I typically have a high threshold for these kinds of events, but even I bailed after 10 dixie-cup sips in more than an hour's time, and constant elbow-bumping with the alpine elite.

It wouldn't be Aspen if we didn't spot a few soup enthusiasts sporting what we will affectionately call the Western douchebag look. You know the type (or maybe you don't) -- the beefy and tan, monied mountaineer in a roughed-up cowboy hat with a floor length mink coat and ostrich skin cowboy boots. It's probably the closest we'll see to a public soup kitchen (the original concept for the event, btw) for recession-era financiers.

One soup standout worth mentioning was the Lobster Hot Chocolate from the restaurant Social. Their lobster bisque variation was the most adventurous flavor pairing, heavy on the cocoa and garnished with a cream froth and finely chopped chives.

The reigning champ, chef Clark Church of Garnish café, won again for the third year in a row with his rendition of New England-style clam chowder. Clark's chowder is more brothy in consistency, but dense with flavor and packs an extra spice kick, which he revealed is owed to "good ol' black pepper."

Christmas 2008 Dinner in Los Angeles

Sat, 27 Dec 2008 05:56:00 +0000

Not Your Grandma's Brittle

Sat, 20 Dec 2008 23:38:00 +0000

'Tis the season for confections of all kinds, but let me turn you on to the most delectable ones I've come across this year. Echo Park-based chef Max Lesser updates the classic holiday peanut brittle with an artisinal hand and high-quality ingredients. His brittle branches out into new flavor territory such as Indian Curry and Pistachio; Cocoa Nib, Coffee Bean & Pecan; Chai Tea and Cashew (my personal favorite); New Mexico Chili and Pumpkin Seed; and Fleur de Sel and Peanut.

Max raises the bar and the results are delicious! If you're dying to try it, visit Morning Glory Confections on the web, or if in Silverlake, stop by the Cheese Shop on Sunset where they carry the locally made brittle.

Peck Nabs Brooklyn "Casserole King" Title With Cauliflower Clincher

Thu, 13 Nov 2008 21:28:00 +0000

Brooklyn is home to many, but there's only one King of Casseroles, and his name is Theodore Peck. On Monday evening in a heated competition, Peck took first place among 28 other casserole contestants in the fourth annual matchup of culinary grit.

EQ caught up with his highness to learn of the savory taste of victory -- and get the winning recipe for Peck's cauliflower, purple potato and bacon casserole.

EQ: When you heard the word "casserole" what was the first thing that popped into your mind?

Ted: Honestly I thought mushroom soup and cheese. You know, like most people try to put as much garbage like mushroom soup and cheese into a casserole. I thought, wow, there's gotta be a way to make it lighter. Casseroles don't need to feel heavy. So I decided to enter the competition with that goal in mind.

EQ: Was there any kind of cuisine or school of cooking in your approach to the casserole?

Ted: Seasonal, as you can imagine someone coming from the school of Dan Barber. I thought to myself, if Dan Barber made a casserole this is what it would be like. There's a different way of thinking about it when you are in a professional kitchen. So then I considered what I've been seeing at the farmer's maket. I've been eating a lot of cauliflower lately -- really digging it -- so I thought: This is it.

EQ: Were there any childhood casserole memories that inspired you?

Ted: What a charming question. I think a lot of people from the mid-west might have that, but I'm from New York, so no. The closest childhood memory I have to a casserole is potato dauphinois (said with tongue firmly in cheek and a French accent). It's sad, but it's actually true.

EQ: What was your reaction when you heard your name called out as the winner?

Ted: I never won anything in my life except for this contest. I think I almost went into cardiac arrest.

EQ: If you were invited to contend in the Iron Chef "casserole" battle, which Iron Chef would you challenge and how do you think you'd fare against him/her?

Ted: If I had to go into a Battle Royale, I think I could kick Bobby Flay's ass. Because I think Bobby Flay would make some mayonnaise-y chipotle casserole. Tostada, cumin, queso fresco -- it would be so easy to predict exactly what he would make. Basically, I think he'd be a dead man. He should just stay at home.

EQ: What's next for the Casserole King of Brooklyn?

Ted: You gotta take it one casserole at a time. But I will tell you this much: I see many culinary competitions out there in the future. I will happily enter into the Fondue Slam -- actually, Fondue Take-down -- in two weeks.

+ RECIPE
Caulifornication Casserole
by Theodore Peck

3 to 4 heads Cauliflower (Purple, Cheddar, or Regular)
2 ½ Cups Garlic Cloves, trimmed
1 ½ Cups Olive Oil
1 Lbs Bacon, cut into lardoons
4-6 ea Potatoes, waxy varieties
6 T Parsley, chopped
3 Cups Milk, whole
4 Sprigs Thyme
1 ea Apple, peeled, diced
1 T Honey
1 tsp Nutmeg, fresh grated
2 T Butter
1 to 2 Cups Shredded Cheese, like gruyer
½ Cup Shredded Parmesan
1 Cup Fried Onions
2 Cups Panko Crumbs
2 Cups Phyllo, shredded

Pre-heat oven to 350 and butter your Pyrex dish. Cut Cauliflower into small florets, trimmed of stems and place in large bowl. Take ½ Cup of garlic and slice lengthwise in half.
Place a generous cup of olive oil in a pan with the sliced garlic and heat over a low to medium-low heat until the garlic starts to brown (15 – 20 min).
With slotted spoon, remove garlic from oil (reserve the oil for use in topping) and place in the bowl with Cauliflower along with a couple of tablespoons of garlic oil, splashes of olive oil, kosher salt and pepper, toss, and let sit while you do some other stuff.

Slice the potatoes on a mandolin, not too thin, toss with oil and salt and scallop layer the bottom of your dish. Place in the oven till the potatoes are slightly crisp and brown on top.
Then place the cauliflower in a single layer on a sheet tray, use two if necessary, and roast in the oven until there is some browning, and some moisture has evaporated.

Fry bacon until almost crisp and drain.

To make the garlic cream: Place two cups of garlic cloves in a pot and cover in cold water and bring up to a simmer. Strain the garlic, return it to the pot and cover again in cold water bring to simmer and strain. Strain the garlic, return it to the pot, add the milk, apple, thyme, nutmeg, salt & pepper and bring to a simmer. Let it cool, remove the thyme sprig, and place the rest into a blender along with honey and butter, make a puree…

In large bowl combine the cauliflower, bacon, 3T parsley.

In a large saucepan, heat the garlic puree, add 1T butter, and whisk in 1-2 cups of shredded cheese until smooth and melted. Add the puree to the bowl with the cauliflower and stuff, and mix well. Place the mix into the Pyrex on top of the potatoes. Press the mix into the Pyrex using a spatula.

For the recipe that never ends: Now for the topping. Heat a pan and add 3 T garlic oil, two cups panko crumbs, 1T parsley, and salt. Toss and heat until toasted. Place in a bowl with the fried onions. Heat the pan again add 3T garlic oil, the phyllo, parsley, salt and toss until toasted. Place into the bowl. When the bowl cools, add ½ cup parmesean and toss. Press onto the casserole.

Bake at 350 until crust browns and there is some bubblin’.

Chez Panisse + Dosa in Downtown LA

Mon, 10 Nov 2008 01:31:00 +0000

At the intersection of food and fashion this weekend were creations celebrating the local and artisinal alike. Housed in the airy loft space of fashion and housewares label, Dosa, artist/designer Christina Kim co-hosted an afternoon event with chef Alice Waters to benefit the Chez Panisse Foundation's Edible Schoolyard project.

Dosa showcased its discounted fall/winter "Casa Malatesta Franzini" traveler collection -- inspired by Kim's recent journeys and interaction with far-flung traditional cultures and craftsmanship -- while Waters held court and catered the party, bringing her trademark sustainable, local, and organic cuisine to a captive audience of Angelenos. It was a simple but visually stunning marriage of parallel approaches and philosophies to Waters and Kim's respective arts.

A small staff from Chez Panisse crafted an autumnal bounty gathered from local farmers' markets here on Saturday in Santa Monica and on Sunday in Hollywood. They staged a delectable still life of persimmons, pomegranates, apples, almonds, grapes, plums, and meyer lemons, plus a plate of fresh-pickled veggies including fennel, carrots, and radishes.

Chez Panisse servers emerged from the open kitchen with platters of rich farmer-fresh egg salad sandwiches, tangy watercress and cucumber sandwiches, and savory flat-pressed paninis with prosciutto, arugula and a fresh mozzarella made by a local gentleman who attended the event. A cleansing mint tea was offered to soothe and wash down the small bites.

The only imports on the menu were the roasted almonds from Chez Panisse's local provider in Berkeley, CA, reported the restaurant's general manager Jennifer Sherman, and the spectacular Fleur de la Terre cheese from Traders Point Creamery in Zionsville, IN. Sherman lauded the Mid-Western diary's sustainable practices and 100% organic milk from grass-fed cows (no grain whatsoever), which produces a heavenly raw-milk, natural rind cheese.

For the eco-minded and taste-conscious, the event was not to be missed. Not to mention a chance to chat with the affable revolutionary and inspiration to many market-to-table cooks, chef Alice Waters.

- by Jennifer Eno

Election Night Nibbles

Wed, 05 Nov 2008 07:36:00 +0000

Since nervously gnawing on our fingernails could only get us so far, I decided to whip up some election night hors d'oeuvres for our viewing party. Working with only what was already on-hand, I drummed up a spontaneous stuffed mushroom concoction. The results were well received and seem worth noting, so here goes:

+ RECIPE
"Yes We Can" Stuffed Mushrooms With Scallops

12-15 whole baby Portobello or Crimini mushroom caps
Canola oil
8-10 large scallops, diced
a pinch of dried red chili pepper flakes
1 T fresh ginger, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 scallions, thinly slivered
1-1/2 c. fresh spinach, finely chopped
1/4 c. Mirin wine
Dash of soy sauce

Clean the mushrooms with a damp paper towel and trim the stems and cap area so it's primed for stuffing. Place mushroom caps in a glass Pyrex dish and drizzle with Canola oil, toss until they are lightly coated. Place in broiler to pre-cook for 5-7 minutes, just until they start to release a little liquid. Remove from broiler.

In a wok or skillet over medium heat, place 2 tablespoons of Canola oil and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Wait for oil to heat up and red chili flakes to begin to infuse the oil, then add ginger, garlic, scallions, gently stirring constantly with spatula for 1-2 minutes. Add diced scallops and continue to cook, gently stirring constantly until they start to turn opaque, 1-2 minutes. Then add spinach, cook stirring for 1 minute. Add Mirin wine and dash of soy, increase heat a little to cook wine off quickly until a loose reduced sauce remains, 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Use a teaspoon to place scallop stuffing mixture into partially cooked mushroom caps -- put enough so the cap is heaping with the stuffing. At this point you could sprinkle the top with Panko breadcrumbs, but I didn't have any.

Place Pyrex dish with stuffed mushrooms in preheated 350 degree oven for 5-7 minutes more to reheat. Shout "YES! OBAMAAAAAAAA!!" and serve.

Also on the finger food menu that night:
+ Terikayi Tri-Tip
+ Roasted Asparagus Spears with Ponzu sauce

+ LIBATION
Blue-State-tinis
3 oz. Vodka
1 oz. Blue Curacao

Chill, stir, pour into martini glass. Watch the red states turn blue!

Desperate Times Call for More Frugal Ingredients

Sat, 11 Oct 2008 03:57:00 +0000

Time to save those truffle shavings for another day. Tonight we're gonna menu plan like it's 1929! Here are my Top 5 austerity budget meals.

1. Tomato Bread Soup
Don't let that day old baguette go to waste. Also, it's still high season for tomatoes at the farmers' markets here in the Southland.

2. Arroz con Pollo
This dish makes great use of the cheaper (and tastier) cuts of chicken: thighs and legs.

3. Pasta with Tuna, White Bean, Arugula
Might be a bit of a stretch given the arugula factor, but hopefully you can find a bunch for $2.00 or less at your farmer's market.
Note: Just add a can of cannelli beans when the recipe calls for adding the tuna.

4. Red Snapper Livornese
I recently found great quality snapper fillets at our local fishmongers, Santa Monica Seafood and Fish King in Glendale, CA, for around $7.99/pound. Capers and olives are always on hand in my fridge or pantry.

5. Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino
A deliciously minimal dish that brings big returns on flavor, if properly executed. Some believe this dish to be the benchmark of a cook's competency in Italian cuisine.

+ RECIPE
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
1 peperoncino (dried red chili pepper), seeded and torn into small pieces
1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley, chopped
12 ounces spaghetti
freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the oil in a small pan, add the garlic and chili and cook over low heat for a few minutes until the garlic is golden brown. Season lightly with salt, remove the pan from the heat and add the parsley. Cook the spaghetti in a large pot of salted, boiling water until al dente, then drain, toss with the garlic and chile oil.

Tell us about your favorite financial meltdown meals in Comments.

Looking for Lobster Rolls

Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:58:00 +0000

On our recent trip to Montauk, Long Island, NY, the local East-Enders led us to the Chowder House for what they consider to be the best lobster roll in Montauk.

What makes for a number one lobster roll? In my opinion, scant mayo is key -- only for loosely binding nearly a pound of sweet succulent lobster meat. Then just a touch of celery, parsley and perhaps a squeeze of lemon. Best served at room temperature with a crisp cool leaf of romaine lettuce.

The roll needn't be fancy. A classic hotdog bun works far better than more gourmet interpretations such as toasted brioche rolls.

West Lake Chowder House
352 West Lake Drive
Montauk, NY
(631) 668-6252

Ad Hoc Inspiration

Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:01:00 +0000

Whenever I would head over to the Union Square Greenmarket in NYC, I'd first stop at Union Square Café to check out their menu for the latest seasonal ingredients and preparations. Armed with inspiration, I'd then tackle the farmers' produce stands.

Now that I live in LA, my strategy must come from a different source. Lucky for me, Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc Restaurant in Yountville, CA, recently started sending out their daily menu to email subscribers. Ad Hoc serves a daily single prix fixe menu of four courses featuring standout seasonal ingredients -- sometimes from the French Laundry garden itself.

Ad hoc's family-style approach makes for more straightforward (yet still sublime) dishes from Keller's arsenal. Great ideas abound -- but how you go about executing them is up to you.

Wild Rocky Mountain Asparagus

Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:00:00 +0000

On a recent trek to the Harvey Gap Reservoir in Silt, Colorado, my father-in-law found himself in a patch of wild asparagus. Naturally, it ended up on the dinner table that night. His method: steamed and served with lemon butter.

As it's high season for this vegetable, the NYTimes.com recently posted its compendium of asparagus recipes. One of my favorites is the asparagus risotto from Mark Bittman in 2007.

I Want Scandi

Sun, 25 May 2008 06:09:00 +0000

My latest guilty TV pleasure is New Scandinavian Cooking on local SoCal PBS affiliate KLCS. In episodes titled "Food Where the Lilacs Bloom," "Seabed Soil," and "The Lure of the Mountain," Danish chef Claus Meyer transports us to Denmark on his local ingredient purveying adventures. He plucks just-ripe fruit off treetops and grabs still-slithering eels out of a fishmongers' net with his big bare hands boatside from his sea kayak. It is, in a word, awesome.

Chef Claus is passionate and brutal in his delivery when telling his audience how to cook something -- especially when talking about "apple must" or commanding us to "Skin," "Scrub" or "Slice." His stripped down recipes simply instruct: "This is how you do it...." For me, the novelty of his approach is endlessly entertaining.

Once he seeks out the necessary ingredients, Claus wastes no time and immediately assembles an IKEA-esque cooking station on location -- be it on the seashore among the craggy rocks or in the midst of an orchard, marshlands or open meadow -- and begins to prepare his meal. It's like the "man in the wild" of Werner Herzog's Grizzly Man meets the stark storytelling (and production values) found in a Lars Von Trier Dogme film. At the same, New Scandinavian Cooking leaves me reeling from peals of laughter over Chef Claus' uber dry cooking-related jokes. Chef Claus is truly a breath of fresh air from the rampant Rachel Ray-ification of cooking shows.

RECIPES

+ Shrimp Sandwiches with Mayonnaise and Dill

+ Halibut with Leeks in Caper Vinaigrette

+ Pot-roasted grouse served in its own sauce with mountain berries

+ Celery root baked in straw and clay on a campfire

+ Apple punch

+ Syllabub with marinated berries and raspberry liquor

Posh Paris: Cocktails at George V

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 14:44:00 +0000

As we're entering the height of the holiday season, lavish cocktails in outrageous settings are in order. In Paris, there are many options for this. The Four Seasons' Hotel George V is one such place.

The bar at George V is opulent but comfortable with a warm cozy fireplace and plush intimate seating. There are a number of specialty cocktails on the menu -- and the table-side martini-shaking is a fierce ritual of pouring precision.

Luckily, they offer equally chic cocktails sans alcool, for the pregnant or non-partaking crowd. Pictured above, the Lucky Star -- cranberry juice, soda water, fresh mint, strawberries and raspberries and a Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

HOLIDAY CHEER AT GEORGE V

Royal Couscous

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 11:39:00 +0000

Tonight we were Moroccan princes -- or at least feasted like ones.

On the recommendation of the kind folk at George V, we venture a short distance from the Arc de Triomphe (Charles de Gaulle Etoile) into the 17th arrondissement to the restaurant Timgad. We enter into an ornate interior with stark white lattice-work walls, a fountain surrounded by a profusion of plants and flowers, and regal red carpets. The tuxedoed staff are charged with a sense of occasion and urgency.

We begin with an arrangement of spicy and pickled Moroccan mezze -- carrots scented with cumin, lemon, coriander; piquante green olives; oil-cured black olives; pickled cauliflower, carrots, peppers; and toasted hazelnuts. This was served with a round load of whole wheat bread.

The menu consists of a variety of couscous, tagines and grilled meats. We opt for Couscous Merguez and Tagine de poulet fermier aux olives et citrons confits.

Timgad's presentation of couscous is something of a spectacle. First the couscous is served from a large decorative platter into individual serving bowls. The server takes the backside of the oversized serving spoon to form a deep depression in the couscous mound. Then they arrive with a large terracotta pot of stewed zucchini, carrots, turnips and scoop them into the well, making sure to provide ample sauce. Next come the garnishes: chickpeas in a sauce, plump golden raisins and Harissa sauce. The couscous itself is incredibly light, fluffy and perfectly salted; the vegetables cut in large portions are plumped with flavor from the broth.

The merguez is served on the side. We realize up until this point, we have only eaten charred, overcooked merguez. Timgad's is a completely different -- cooked with dry heat in a wood-burning oven, it remains tender and juicy, bringing life the lamb sausage's delicate spices and mint. The food is simple, but a revelation.

Our tagine took on an intense yellow color from the spices -- matching the vivid level of flavor. A dreamy succulent chicken topped with onions, black olives and half of a preserved lemon.

We should note, this is an enormous amount of food for two people, so dessert was out of the question. Though we couldn't refuse a service of famous Moroccan mint tea.

Eat a Crepe (or Two)

Tue, 27 Nov 2007 10:46:00 +0000

In Paris, crepes are a staple. We found our first crepe destination, Des Crepes et des Cailles, on a charming small street in the La Butte Aux Cailles area (13eme). Translated as "hill of the quails," La Butte Aux Cailles is like a little village unto itself and offers an authentic experience of an older Parisian neighborhood.

The restaurant is small and sweet with little flourish except a maritime theme. Best to keep it simple. We chose:

Complet: Ham, cheese, egg

La Raclette: Raclette cheese, potatoes

Nutella: The delicious hazelnut spread (and nothing else)

Watch the pros compose a crepe:

Vive La Froth

Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:50:00 +0000

BLANQUETTE DE VEAU "COMME A LA PAINBLANC"

For our first dining experience in Paris, we decide to seek out a local restaurant in the 13th. L'Ourcine comes recommended by Conde Nast Traveler, Time Out and Zagat alike for its “Basque and Bernais classics.”

The sober interior with an open view of the kitchen tells us the focus is on the food. The menu (à 30 Euros) offers a choice of three courses, ranging from veloutés, ravioli, composed salads to classic entrées and updated desserts.

To start, we are offered a canapé of Mousse aux poireaux (Leek Mousse) -- a highly aerated, savory verdant cloud topped with well-oiled croutons. This leaves our lips smacking with salty goodness, ready for more.

Next arrives the appetizer course. I choose something completely foreign to me -- bulots in a curry rémoulade with granny smith apples, chestnuts, topped with microgreens (Rémoulade de bulots au curry, pommes granny smith, marrons). I continue to ask myself, what the hell is a boulot, guessing it is something between a mussel and an escargot. The gentle creamy curry and tart apples envelop the meaty little boulots with subtle piquante flavor.

Later, I spot boulots at an open-air market and learn they are whelk (which doesn't do much to clear things up) -- an ambiguous mollusk.

With Brett’s ravioli appetizer, we begin to detect a theme: foamy froth. The Raviolés d’araignée de mer, émulsion crémeuse à citronelle come bathed in a fine foam emulsion. Brothy and buttery, the fresh seafood ravioli may have suffered from the foam, as it left a watery feel in the mouth.

For the mains, I go straight to la tradition: Blanquette de Veau. The chef offers a version from his native village of Painblanc in Burgundy (Traditionelle Blanquette de Veau, trompettes de la mort “comme à la Painblanc”). The dish’s highlights are a tie between the powerful triumverate of succulent stewed veal, aromatic vegetables (carrots, leeks, crosnes, parsnips) and insanely flavorful mushrooms (champignons de Paris and trompettes de la mort). Again, the stew sits in a light broth enhanced with foam, which works quite well this time, distinguishing it from the heavier cream-based blanquettes I’ve had in the past. Trompettes de la mort qualify as some of the most exotic mushrooms I’ve ever tasted - when cooked they are dark like hijiki with a deep earthy, salty flavor.

Brett follows with another traditional dish: Noix de Saint Jacques rotiés en coquille au beurre persille, endives meunières (roasted scallops in a parsley butter with endives meunières. This dish is straight-up good. The chef achieves an exceptional texture with the sweet scallops that is reminiscent of lobster. A kiss of foam and oily croutons top this dish.

Finally, dessert: Bouchon de chocolat guanaja, coeur coulant, sorbet à l’amande. Our hearts melt away in this oversized timbale of bittersweet chocolate cake. A beautiful quenelle of homemade almond sorbet cools our jets.

This is a fine start to our séjour à Paris.

Surprising Pizza Topping Success Story

Thu, 13 Sep 2007 22:39:00 +0000

PHOTO BY DANIEL TA

Free pizza lunches at work are always a boon. Fun prizes make it even better. But being introduced to new flavors that I would never think of combining -- and love -- that's just unheard of.

Today's inspired combo:

sausage
jalapeno
pineapple

The result is something of a spicy Creole influence with a sweet Southern kick. CBS.com's Craig Hibbard is the brainchild of the winning combo and Tomato Pie in Los Angeles crafted the pie.

I can feel my NYC street cred diminishing as I type. Although, one could easily envision this pizza at Two Boots. We'll call it: The Tennesee Williams.