It’s sad to say that I missed the 2013 So Cal VW Classic. However, our pal Timm Eubanks was on location, camera in hand. A huge thanks to Timm for providing his photography time and talent to 1967beetle.com.

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If you own a ’67 Beetle, sooner or later you’re going to have to experience the intimate task of replacing the muffler. It can be a dirty job. Not to worry; 1967beetle.com is here to make sure you get the job done right. Let’s discuss the task.

With the engine cooled down, elevate your car with a floor jack at a comfortable working height. To allow for easy access to the muffler’s mounting location, support vehicle with jack stands (this also spares your knees from abuse).

Remove the rear engine tin (breast plate) and proceed to remove the old muffler. Due to the extreme changes in temperature, the securing hardware often becomes seized, making them difficult to remove. If excessive force is exerted, you risk shearing the studs from the cylinder head. Re-placing broken cylinder head studs is a tech tip in itself, BE CAREFUL. Do not hesitate to useheat on the nut, or invest in a nut cracker to break the nut(s) free.

With the removal of the old muffler finished, I like to clean-up the heater box tube with a pair of channel locks. Adjust the channel locks to the proper size and lightly grip onto the tube and slide back and forth while rotating the channel locks. This strips the layers of rust and makes the installation of the sealing rings much easier.

One more detail, as long as you have the rear engine tin out, inspect the engine to body seal and replace this if necessary. This keeps heat from the muffler from rising into the engine compartment. As we all know, heat deflection is an element which needs to be avoided, especially with air-cooled motors.

Now we’re ready to install the new muffler. Always compare your new muffler to the old muffler, thus insuring that the replacement is correct for the car. If the motor is a 40 h.p., make sure that you have the correct version to match the heating system (stale or fresh-air). Are the lower heater box to muffler connections the same length and distance apart? A quick measurement here avoids hours of frustration later.

After confirming that the muffler is correct, install the exhaust tips. Not only is it easier to install these while the muffler is outside of the car, they make great handles for maneuvering the replacement muffler into place.

Run a tap through the preheat pipe flanges (the pipe that is connected to the intake manifold and flanges into the muffler). The flanges are often caked with primer, making the thread channels obstructed. Fitting the flanges is often the most difficult task in muffler replacement and clean threads sure come in handy (as you will find out later!).

A V.W. Master Mechanic showed me this trick. On all of the fresh-air replacement mufflers available on the market today (yep, even the German units), you will find a baffle located directly inside the inlet tube (the part of the muffler that connects to the heater box). This baffle consists of a number of holes that for some strange reason, are a great deal smaller than the factory installed mufflers. If left alone, your engine will run hotter, and could prematurely end your engine’s life. Open the baffling with the use of a punch or screwdriver. Simply insert the punch or driver into the inlet tube, and strike with a hammer.

As we mentioned earlier, the hardest part of the fitting process involves the preheat pipe flanges. Because of this I always inspect/install these first before starting any other nuts. I use a combination of tools to twist the flanges into alignment. Channel locks, large vise grips and a pry bar to mention a few. Be patient in threading the bolts into the flanges as cross threading can easily occur.

To aid in the installation process, use a rubber mallet to help the muffler find its home. A rubber mallet gives the extra needed force for fitting the muffler, without bruising the surface.

Always leave the lower heater box to muffler clamps the last step in the installation process. This will insure that this connection is fully seated.

Now, lets look at video on how to do the job. It’s on a ’72 Beetle, but the general process is about the same.

I hope this information helps. Doing the work yourself on these old cars is really simple and will make you feel good, knowing you don’t need to rely on anyone but your own two hands.

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Sent over by our good pal Tom Griffin, Jeremy Goodspeed of Goodspeed Motoring was spotted with a ’67 Beetle chassis at The American Graffiti car show in Modesto yesterday. The show was sponsored by Kiwanis International (of which Jeremy is a member), and they are expecting to raise about $100K for children in need. There were upwards of 1,000 cars, including 4 Beetles and one special ’67 chassis.

Jeremy Goodspeed is a great guy and contributes articles to 1967beetle.com.

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East Coast pal Chris Vallone’s L620 savanna beige ’67 has been featured here at 1967beetle.com a few times during its restoration process. This car originally came to Chris as a true time capsule. During the restoration, Chris added his own flair and style to the interior with close attention to detail. The car just went to a new owner! It’s a very respectable example of what many consider the best year of the VW Beetle; 1967.

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Congrats to 1967beetle.com reader Charlie Link on winning the ’67 Beetle quiz. Enjoy your 25% off in the 1967beetle.com boutique store. Now, let’s talk about how Jay was able to fix his car.

The man at the parts counter asked me, “do you have a fuel filter on your car?”

When I replied that I did, he asked if I might remove it in order to show him. When I did, he tried blowing through it from the nether end and could not force even air through it! There was the problem all the while! Was my face red!!! He did not have a VW filter so we altered the ends of a Honda one and, after installation, we were on our way like a shot out of a gun! We made the rest of the trip without incident.

However, the next day in Lubbock, I drained, removed and cleaned the gas tank. Here’s what we discovered later. We had been unaware of the addition of Ethanol to the gasoline at the station where we were trading. This was in the beginning days of that gasoline mixture. The Ethanol dissolved moisture in the “dirty” tank and carried it and all impurities through the mesh sleeve at the bottom of the tank, through the line and right into the unsuspecting filter.

You can bet that I cleaned the tanks on my other Volkswagens (we had several). And…installed clean in-line filters. This led us to the abandoning of that line of gas stations and took us to another, which, at the time, added no Ethanol to the gasoline.

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Another quiz here at 1967beetle.com. Know the answer? If so, you’ll get 25% off in the 1967beetle.com boutique store. The first person to chime in correctly below wins. Jay Salser will be moderating. The winner will be notified within 48 hours as well as announced. Good luck.

Around 1980, I came home a little early one blisteringly hot summer day and told the family to pack so that we could head to Lubbock to visit my parents.

I was in my 40s in those days and thought nothing of striking out at the drop of a hat in one of our Volkswagens. Soon everyone had a sack packed and Neva had some goodies readied as well.

We already had discovered that packing in one of our ’67 VW Beetles was more efficient if each person packed his possessions in one or two large, brown-paper grocery bags; these “squashed“ into relatively small spaces whereas a suitcase will not. Even the miniature dachshund would run to the back door where his leash hung and beg to be put on it. In a matter of a half hour or so, we were in the car and off.

We sped through Dallas on I-30 with no problem and had gotten practically through Fort Worth when I noticed that I was having more and more difficulty coaxing speed from The Red Baron, our ’67 Beetle sedan. As we neared the western outskirts of the city, I began to think about “vapor locks“. I never had experienced one, but I thought about the metal gas line that comes through the firewall and into the engine compartment. Given the tremendous heat of the day, coupled with the heat of the engine, I decided that a vapor lock it must be.

I pulled into a gas station at Las Vegas Trail and explained my situation to the mechanic on duty. He agreed and soon had pulled the metal line and had replaced it with a standard woven gas line. I paid the bill and we pulled away from the station. As we left Fort Worth, the car could barely reach 15 mph.

I knew that there would be no help past Fort Worth, so we turned around and used the shoulders to limp back into town with traffic speeding past us. It was a memorable and hair-raising trip into town.

Years later, Neva and I made a trip across Fort Worth and on to Mineral Wells. This brought to mind that ill-fated trip of long ago. As Neva and I traversed the same route, we rehearsed each harrowing moment, cringing sometimes and laughing at others.

Finally, we made it back to Las Vegas Trail, exited to the South and found a large auto parts store in the first block. I had decided that the problem had to be the fuel pump. I bought a pump and set out to find some shade so that I could swap it out.

At a vacant shop, I put the family into a shady spot while I changed the pump. Soon, I had us going again, but the car was going only more and more slowly!

The day was wearing on so I decided that we should return home. As we neared downtown Forth Worth, I thought that perhaps a carburetor rebuild might do the trick. We were not going to make it home at the rate we were moving (actually NOT moving!). I exited I-30 and soon found another auto parts store. I went inside and explained our plight to the man at the parts counter.

What was the question that this person asked that led to the solution to the car’s problem? Chime in below with the answer!

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Tell us about the history of your ’67 Beetle?
This is an interesting car as it’s a full RHD Australian spec which did not follow the USA or European cars changes to design and specification/components, hence as a ’67 car it still has sloped headlights and uses older spec equipment. As these VW’s started off being imported as knock down components and then assembled in Australia, they then moved to being completely manufactured in Australia and the older parts were still used that did not follow the changes to other countries upgrades.

It was in original form, a 1300 and has some interesting mods by previous owners. One being the inlet manifold, it has the pipes to the exhaust removed, Australia being a very hot climate reduced the need for heating the fuel for easy starts. It also has the USA bumpers and not the European single bar at the front and rear. Obtaining parts can be an issue as I need to be very sure of which year the original component was used. It can follow that either the 1966 – 1967 and earlier parts were used to make up the car, sort of bits and pieces approach. The old girl now has a 1600 motor which still started after years of neglect, a fresh battery and some juice was all it took to get a heartbeat going again.

I usually look only towards early English cars as a passion. The last model I restored was a 1956 split screen 850cc Morris Minor, but looking for a new project I found this VW just a few houses going for song of a price at $850. Really battered and bent, the upholstery a complete shambles and a lot of rust. The previous owner started rubbing it back to respray and then quit which caused a lot of damage as it rusted in the coastal conditions of Perth, Western Australia. The wife was distraught as the old girl was parked in the front garage for the world to witness but my little boy just loves her to death and is a great tool boy. My eldest daughter was not very complimentary of my purchase, but as I have made some inroads to restoring it she now demands ownership when the work is done, so much for first impressions. The middle girl also heaps love and attention on the car as she passes each day. There is little to salvage internally and requires a complete makeover. Hard work that requires a multitude of ability and skills, most of which is learnt in the process and intermingled with curses, blood, sweat and maybe a tear or two. Why do we gets these passions in the first place is quite beyond me, but off we go again, tools in hand.

When did you start the restoration?
January 2013

How long did the restoration take?
Still in build and expect to take a year to complete, some parts are not available in Australia and requires supply out of Germany and the UK.

What were some of the challenges you faced during the process?
The rust damage to the pan, panels and doors, I cannot get new doors or good second hand parts so I have to cut and weld in plates which is a huge task.

In your opinion, what makes the ’67 Beetle so unique?
The sloped headlights is a compelling feature for me, not many on the roads here anymore and is a stand out car. But perhaps the very original VW Beetle splutter as it goes down the road and heads turn often with fond memories for the older folk and great amusement to the young.

What parts were the hardest to find?
Doors, interior controls and knobs, chrome parts…. well just about everything maybe is the correct answer. The only parts I absolutely cannot locate at all are the two front vent window latch plates, are they still produced? If you have any, please contact me!

What is your take on doing a 100% stock restoration VS non stock?
I believe is keeping to complete original specification, however I draw the line at the brakes. This needs to be upgraded to disc so the car is safe in modern traffic. Whilst this is a personal take on restoring cars, I do however admire those folk who create fancy cars, but this is not my passion.

Any ’67 Beetle specific tips or words of wisdom you would like to offer?
Fancy car colours are great, but prep the car correctly. Rub it back to bare metal if you can and have the time. Otherwise, all the effort to make a great car can be undone by a terrible paint job.

Thanks, Graham, for sharing your ’67 with 1967beetle.com.

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The noble Volkswagen Beetle has been much maligned. One of the main criticisms has been lighting.

In the day of the 6 volt system, eventually connectors would corrode and an approaching Beetle’s head lamps glowed as two yellow-flamed candles!

Even with the 12 volt systems that generated so much excitement when VW unveiled its ’67 Models, one needs to keep a watchful eye on the electrical system, including the battery, generator, regulator and all connections. Left to themselves, these components will degrade with time and one will find himself fighting to see at night.

There is an additional concern. The tail lights and brake lights are there for the purpose of keeping those behind us aware that, one, we are there, and two, that we are braking!

If you have followed a Beetle, you likely have noticed just how dim the tail lights and brake lights are.

Two of my Volkswagen friends, came upon an ingenious method for remedying the situation. They polished the bulb reflectors on their Bug!

They removed the reflectors and pulled the bulbs. This is an easy process, as you will soon discover. The work comes in the polishing. However, the rewards are worth it in increased reflection.

Let me add a word of caution: do not attempt to polish the upper reflector! It is coated with a special mirroring and can be damaged by cleaning. A damp cloth can be used gently to remove any dust or light deposits that may be present.

It’s best to start with reflectors which are not rusted. If the bottom reflector surface is greatly damaged, the chances of bringing it back to life are slim. So, find some good reflectors, if yours are damaged.

We used Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish which can be purchased at most automotive product stores.

While my friends used a Dremel Tool with a polishing wheel, I chose to do my work using a rag and my fingers.

After some polishing, you will find that something like the Dremel will offer a quicker method and will be less tiring to the fingers.

I polished the lower reflectors as well as the tops of the dividers (taking care not to touch the upper reflector, mind you).

As you can see in the test photo in this article, the reflector, when polished, is going to be much more effective. And, that’s going to translate into safety!

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About this item
Spruce up the interior of your ’67 Beetle with a period correct dash grab handle. These are high quality, made in the USA, have the proper curvature, and will fit ’60-’67 Beetles. Includes mounting hardware. Offered in Black, Ivory, and Grey.

Thank you for your business!

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You may be asking yourself, “why is there a mention of something other than the ’67 Beetle here?” Well, the crew over at Circle The Wagen are personal friends of 1967beetle.com. Their fantastic film about the vintage Volkswagen will be shown to the world on June 9th. You can get your tickets here. Sounds like the perfect road trip for a ’67 Beetle. Congrats guys on all your hard work; looking forward to seeing the film. Check out the trailer below.

“Circle The Wagen is a feature-length buddy/roadtrip/docu-dramedy that follows Dave, an idealistic adventurer and automotive ne’er-do-well, and his convivial co-pilot Charlie—on their journey down Route 66 in a baby blue ’72 VW bus. Through mishaps and murals, gasoline baths and breakdowns the two discover a teeming underground of vintage VW diehards willing to help save “The Croc” from the scrap heap and rally her beleaguered owner on to California.”

Circle the Wagen marks the first feature film for both director Ryan Steven Green and producer Charlie Pecoraro (Dave’s co-pilot).

Both graduates of the University of Southern California’s school of Cinema-Television, Ryan’s filmic background started with short subjects such as his award-winning short documentary Between the Upper Lip and Nasal Passageway, and has recently found him directing commercial projects for the likes of PowerBar, NASA, and Torani.

Charlie is a working actor and drummer. He hosts musical colloquiums and a collective of working artists in the greater Los Angeles area committed to sharpening thought and work through discussion and critique.

Other notable members of the crew include:

• Cinematographer Lawson Deming has lensed three features in addition to CtW. His VFX work can be seen in shows such as CSI: New York, Ugly Betty, and Body of Proof.
• Multi-talented Jeremy Graham created the exquisite hand-made stop-motion animations that appear throughout the film.
• Original music for the film was composed by Long Beach-based Seth Shafer and includes a special contribution from Allessandro Allessandroni, the “whistler” in the soundtrack to the classic The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly.

The filmmakers are pleased to have made a film that is unrepentantly optimistic and that celebrates both the unique place these iconic vehicles enjoy in American culture, as well as that lifestyle devoted to helping those in need, even complete strangers.

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