In our first year of full time travel in 2017, we were traveling in Europe for a full nine months. Lots of people asked me how I was able to pack for that length of time. I feel pretty comfortable sharing what I did, and it’s the same way I pack for trips to this day!

On that initial journey, we had everything from 90-degree days to below freezing weather. And I have learned a few things over these years of extensive travel in Europe. Let me tell you how I packed for that 9 month Europe Travel Itinerary, admit a couple mistakes, and then you can use what you like.

First, let me tell you what I brought in the way of clothing. If you have been following the blog or our Facebook page, you will notice me wearing the same clothes a lot. Unless you want to be lugging around a giant suitcase, this is just going to be a reality. Pick clothes that are comfortable, work together in several outfits, and aren’t prone to excessive wrinkling. Since I knew we were going to be going through all sorts of weather, I had to be even more selective. Here is an annotated list of what I packed. I’ve included manufacturers where I felt you may be interested. I’m not endorsed by any of them but when they have worked well, I’ll point them out.

• 2 t-shirts-black and grey - Banana Republic Pima Performance

           Very comfortable, goes with anything

• 2 long sleeve t-shirts - One cotton, one polyester (Columbia)

           Comfortable as it got cooler, also used for layering

• 2 short sleeve button downs - Banana Republic

           Just a little dressier than a t-shirt

• 2 long sleeve button downs - Banana Republic Non-Iron

           Work with jeans or nicer

• 2 pair shorts - Chaps

           Warm weather musts

• 1 pair swim shorts - Columbia

For swimming, can also be worn as casual shorts

• 1 pair jeans - Banana Republic

• 1 pair hiking pants - Columbia

Double as work pants when needed

• 1 pair Chinos - Banana Republic

Can be casual or dressed up

• 1 pair dress pants-charcoal grey - Kenneth Cole Reaction

• 1 winter jacket - Columbia, light-weight

Very packable, not too heavy for mild weather

• 1 rain coat - North Face

Can use as a wind-breaker layer on top of jacket

• 1 sport coat - Michael Kors

• 1 V-neck sweater

Good layer, light enough to wear under a jacket

• 1 pair pajama pants

Good for lounging in the evening

• 1 wide brimmed hat

Great for picking grapes in the sun

• 1 scarf

• 1 knit hat

• 1 pair gloves - Columbia glove liners w/touch

• 10 pair socks - 8 pair Wigwam hiking, 2 pair dress

• 8 pair underwear

• 2 belts-brown and black

• 1 pair of hiking shoes - Merrell All Out Blaze-waterproof

• 1 pair black dress shoes

• 1 pair shower sandals - Nike slides

OK, that’s the bulk of it. You can see a lot of black and grey with a few splashes of color and earth tones. Things that may stick out that you may not see on other packing lists-dress pants, shirts and a jacket. I like to dress up when we go to a nice restaurant or a concert. I may not wear these as often as some of my other clothes but I am very happy when I have them. I also think it helps in not being treated as much like a tourist. Europeans dress up for an event, whether it is a nice dinner or a theatrical show. I like being able to “fit in” when we attend these types of events. I also wear the jacket when we travel from location to location. I think you make a better impression when you get on a plane or train looking decent. I believe you are treated better than if you show up in pajama bottoms and a sweatshirt. Call me old-fashioned but I’m sure it’s true.

Underwear. I’ve read some of these posts where people recommend very expensive silk or microfiber. Mine are cotton, Walmart’s finest. They are comfortable, dry just fine, and don’t cost $30 a pair. I’m fine with that.

The hiking socks however, make a big difference to me. I really like the Wigwam socks and they are much more affordable than many.

Shoes take up so much space. This is as minimal as I can get. My everyday/travel day shoes are my hiking shoes. They are also my waterproof hikers and good work shoes. My black dress shoes are comfortable, and pack tighter than the hiking shoes, dress up my jeans, and of course go with my dress pants and jacket. The sandals have come in handy for casual evenings, on the beach, by a hot tub, and in a questionable shower or two.

My winter stuff (coat, hat, scarf, gloves) stayed in the bottom of my bags for the first three months. A few months into our Europe trip, my shorts and short sleeve button downs were occupying that space.

As the weather got colder, I just started layering more and more. I also finally broke down and bought a warmer sweater and gloves. In the lake district we took some very windy, subfreezing hikes. Our coldest day was in the mid twenties, snow on the ground and wind whipping. Keeping my core warm, I layered a short sleeve tee, long sleeve tee, sweater, winter jacket and raincoat and I was fine. My hiking pants are rather thin but with my core warm, this worked great.

Moving on to the other stuff:

• 1 toiletries bag

• Toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, shaving cream, blah, blah blah

• Sunglasses, reading glasses, prescription glasses…I’m old!

• MacBook Air, iPhone, external hard drive, Bluetooth speaker and requisite cords

• Adapters

• Flute

Just a few comments needed. Any liquids I have go in the toiletries bag. It a more permanent version of a zip lock and has worked going through security checks. The computer and phone keep us connected. The Bluetooth speaker gives us a little better sound quality than the computer or phone and helps make our rooms feel more like home. Adapters are all we need. No heavy converters needed for these devises. (Note: UK and European plugs differ from ours and from each other.) I brought my flute to help me keep active musically. I’ve sat in with a couple bands, played at a couple gatherings of friends (with iReal Pro and the speaker), and just played to relax.

Finally my luggage. I have a Travelpro Maxlite 4 International carry on and an Osprey Talon 22 backpack. That’s it. I’ve carried them both on a plane. The backpack is small enough to double as a daypack when we hike. I also have a Camelback 2.5 liter bladder that fits into the backpack that I completely forget about…until we hike and then it comes in very handy.

That’s it. I can completely pack or unpack in just a few minutes. There is still room in my bag to fit a bottle of wine or two in if need be. I am very happy not to have any more every time we move. Sometimes we have a 30-minute walk to the train station. No worries. I see people lugging around these massive suitcases in the airports and train stations and I’m thankful not to be one of them. They are also probably only traveling for a week or two!

I have made some mistakes. I really like my chinos and the chambray shirt I bought to go with them. I can wear anything I have with the pants, however they look a little funny with hiking shoes. The shirt however, only goes with these pants. It just doesn’t work with jeans or dress pants. I also could probably have done without the brown belt.

I recently jettisoned a towel. It seemed like we might need it at some of our Work Away experiences, but after schlepping it around unused for four months, I finally donated it.

As I said earlier, I am not endorsing or being sponsored by any company. That being said, I would like to give a special shout out to Columbia. I think their products are fantastic, economical, constructed well, look good, and last forever. There are days I feel like a walking Columbia ad. The first products of theirs we ever bought were winter jackets we got on sale for our first European trip in 1990. We finally got rid of those coats when we moved in May 2017. They were still in great shape after years of travel and multiple ski trips, but I was sick of my kids making fun of us for having the same coats for so long. All the Columbia stuff I have now is no longer in their catalog. It just lasts and lasts. The only issue we’ve ever had with one of their products was a seam that ripped out of my son David’s winter jacket in NYC one year. They replaced it, no charge.

Well that’s it. I can’t say I don’t look forward to wearing something else every time I get home, but I get along great with my limited choices, even when we travel for months at a time! My suggestion to you is find a suitcase the size you feel comfortable with and don’t bring more than you can easily fit in it. Happy travels!

Are you planning a trip somewhere in Europe? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the United Kingdom and all of Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — I'm always available to talk about travel!!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to Italy, Ireland, the Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

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]]>How to Pack Like A ProItaly TravelGreg BallThu, 26 Feb 2026 00:27:00 +0000https://www.eurotravelcoach.com/blog/two-great-hikes-in-val-dorcia-tuscany57c9edba2994ca8c81a1a8f1:57cc53039f7456813a24fb4b:5c770948ee6eb06100e610e7

hike in tuscany on your italy travel itinerary

Hiking in the Tuscan hills is a dream for many. We highly recommend it! We want to share two of our favorite hikes in the Val d’Orcia region with you that offer a real sense of the beauty of Tuscany. We’ll also share a bit about how we found them. A little trial and error helped us find what we think are some of the best hikes in the area. You can learn from our mistakes and just enjoy the beauty surrounding you in this part of Tuscany!

When we were first putting together our Small Group Tours of Tuscany back in 2017, we knew we wanted to have a couple of nice hikes available to our guests. During our research we found several that sounded great and narrowed it down to two.

Before our first small group tour to Tuscany, the ETC team took a practice trip to the area to scope out all our planned activities. We ate at family restaurants, visited our Tuscan villa, met our guides, and toured Brunello wineries.

We also tried our hikes and did not like them at all. They either were not as picturesque as described or hard to follow and difficult to find the trailhead. We had to reconsider. 

After some more research we found two more hikes that were much better and we tried them out before our first guests arrived. Here are the hikes we shared with them on our Tuscany Tour. Now we also like to include these as an option in our custom travel itineraries when we have clients visiting this part of Italy who like to hike.

Tuscany Hike 1 | Rocca d’Orcia to Bagno Vignoni

Our first hike is from the top of Rocca d’Orcia down to Bagno Vignoni. There is a parking lot just outside of town where we park and walk up into the medieval village.

Sometimes there is very interesting art along the way. One year there were lovely sculptures made out of a wire mesh scattered about town. It is always fun to see what is on display, as it does change. There is a fortress tower at the top of the hill and from there you can look onto the neighboring village of Castiglione d’Orcia.

After exploring the village you head down hill toward Bagno Vignoni. The trail is well marked and winds its way through vineyards, farmyards, and open pastoral fields. The views are stunning. The walk is about 4 km down to the Orcia river and is almost all downhill.

After crossing the river you find yourself at the bottom of the thermal springs that flow down from Bagno Vignoni. You walk up paths past a series of pools that get warmer the closer you get to their source. Depending on the weather, families will be taking a dip in some of these pools.

Enjoy the tuscan town of Bagno Vignoni

Once you make it to the top you’ll find the picturesque village of Bagno Vignoni with cute shops, tasty restaurants, and the Albergo Le Terme, a spa where you can enjoy the thermal waters and spa treatments. Our favorite spots to enjoy lunch are Il Loggiato with its vaulted ceilings hidden beneath the bookstore and the delightful Osteria del Leone.

This is our first full day of our Tuscany Tour and a good way to stretch your legs! After a nice afternoon in the village we head back to the villa for a cooking class. It’s a great way to begin an amazing week.

If you are doing this on your own, you can hike back up the hill to your car or arrange for a taxi. Either way, you’ve had a wonderful hike.

Bagno Vignoni Circular Route Hike

It is possible to do this hike as a circular route. We did this to test it and decided it was too much for the tour but we had a great time! We started in Bagno Vignoni and hiked the route just described in reverse. In Rocca d’Orcia we had a light lunch at Il Cerchio delle Streghe.

We then left the village from the other side and made our way down to the river taking the more western route. This one is not marked very well and we got confused/lost a couple times. Still, we were beginning to think this was the more beautiful route and were thinking this is how we would go with our guests…until we hit the river!

What looked like a bridge on Google Maps ended up being a ford. Even that was unclear as the water was pretty high and we couldn’t see the path. But turning around meant at least an hour back to the top of Rocca d’Orcia. I finally discovered the ford with my feet and slowly worked my way across with no gear. Once I discovered I could get across I came back for Betsy and Chelsea and our backpacks etc. It ended up being a highlight of our trip but not something we would want our guests to have to do. This is why we do practice trips!

The rest of the hike follows the Orcia river back to Bagno Vignoni. It really is a gorgeous hike and the whole circular route takes about 3 hours.

Tuscany Hike 2 | Pienza

A second hike we like to recommend is in the hills surrounding Pienza. We like to visit a wonderful organic sheep farm called Podere il Casale that specializes in pecorino cheese. They also make wine, grow their own organic vegetables, and run a very successful restaurant.

After a tour of the farm and a hearty lunch featuring their pecorino cheeses and other produce from the farm, we enjoy a great little trek to Pienza. The walk leads us through the farm and down amongst the fertile landscape surrounding the medieval village. Part of the walk follows the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage between France and Rome. In the spring, poppies and wildflowers surround you as farmers tend their fields and work the vines. This hike highlights all the things you think of when you think of Tuscany - winding lanes, tall cypress trees, beautiful villages and lots of grape vines. It’s glorious on a nice day!

The path takes you through a valley pass with some very steep hills to trek up. However, you are rewarded with stunning views of Pienza you will not get any other way. And once you make the final climb into the village, your prize is one of the most beautiful hill towns in all of Tuscany. There are numerous shops to scout out, and several restaurants and bars where you can enjoy a glass of wine or a Campari Spritz. The views over the Val d’Orcia from Pienza are amazing!

Pienza Circular Route Hike

The walk is about 4.5 km but if you wanted to make a day of it, start in Pienza and hike to postcard perfect Montichiello. There are several routes you could take to make it a circular route that would be 12-14 km in total. I can’t think of a better place to spend a day than walking under the beautiful Tuscan sun through the rolling hills of the Val d’Orcia between the villages of Montichiello and Pienza. 

We think the Val d’Orcia is one of the most beautiful spots in Italy. With world-class wines, delicious Tuscan restaurants, and warm friendly people, it is the perfect place to come for a visit. We hope you can join us for a Small Group Tour of Tuscany sometime, or let us create an amazing custom itinerary just for you!

Are you planning a trip to Europe? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to European destinations. Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England.Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

If you love mountain scenery, you want to go to the Dolomites in Italy! There is a lot to see and do while you are there, but if the only thing you end up doing is sitting and looking at these spectacular rugged mountains, that will be time well spent.

We love Italy so much that we keep returning again and again. We tend to focus on the wine, the food, the art, the culture, the people and the history. We also love the scenery – the patchwork vineyards in Piedmont, the soft rolling hills and beautiful cypress trees in Tuscany, the gentle waves on the water in the Italian Lake District, and the incredible views of the Mediterranean in the Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast and Sicily.

But until a few years ago, we had not visited the Dolomites. I am kicking myself for not coming here sooner. For clients who tell us they enjoy mountains and scenery, we now often include this region in their custom trip itinerary. If you love the mountains, the Dolomites should be on your Italy Travel Itinerary too! It is an amazing example of the diverse landscape Italy has to offer and a nice change of pace from the museums and sites often included on other days of your Trip to Italy.

What are the dolomites?

The Dolomites are a magnificent mountain range in the northern Italian Alps. There are 19 peaks that rise above 10,000 feet. The area features some of the most beautiful mountain landscapes anywhere, with vertical walls, sheer cliffs, and narrow, deep and long valleys. The area is a ski haven in the winter and a hiker’s paradise in the summer. We like staying in Castelrotto and exploring the Alpe di Siusi from there. This is a great home base, very near the Val Gardena.

Located on the border with Austria, the region offers a fascinating mix of cultures. Even though you are still in Italy, the food, language and general feel are all different than what you will find in other parts of the country. The journey from Milan to Bolzano takes a little over 3 hours, and Venice is only two hours away, if you are traveling by train. But you may prefer to go by car.

To make the most of a drive from Venice, we recommend that you go a little out of your way and put Cortina d'Ampezzo into your GPS. Cortina is a ski village and hosts many ski races and events in the winter. In the summer it is one of the more beautiful passes in the Dolomites. You can stop for a wander through the village, enjoy lunch with a spectacular mountain backdrop, or simply relish the view as you drive through.

How to reach the dolomites

If you take the train to Bolzano, you can likely get most of the places you want to go in the mountains by bus, but a car will make it easier to explore the mountain villages that aren’t on public transportation routes. 

Using a car to get to your destination and enjoy the mountain roads to their fullest extent provides freedom and flexibility. That said, you may want to leave it at your hotel when you are not road tripping. You can rely on local busses and gondolas to reach most of the places you want to go, once you are high into the mountains.

The Dolomites Offer Spectacular Scenery and Amazing Activities Year Round

The scenery in the Dolomites is absolutely stunning. It is hard to describe how beautiful it is. And there really is something for everyone to do in the Dolomites. The area’s versatility is one of its most enduring features. It is a year-round destination, with plenty of cold-weather sports in the winter, and a wide variety of outdoor activities during the summer months.

Known for its natural landscapes, there are plenty of things for every age, level, and ability to enjoy. Visitors can hike, bike, climb, camp, ride a cable car up to famous passes, parasail, drive curvy mountain roads, and more.

And you do all this with beauty surrounding you everywhere you look. As you hike through lush green fields speckled with wild flowers in the summertime, expect to be greeted by the sound of cow bells. As you bike (e-bikes are often available!) or drive through the area, you’ll notice that each peak offers its own unique and dramatic appearance. The wooden barns and huts are charming and inviting. From rolling green meadows to spectacular turquoise lakes, the beautiful landscape in the Dolomites completely envelopes you. There is gorgeous natural scenery everywhere you look.

There is Absolutely Incredible Hiking throughout the Dolomites

If you like to hike, the Dolomites are a dream destination, whether you are a beginner, expert, or something in-between. There are trails of all lengths and difficulty, and every one includes spectacular, jaw dropping views and memorable experiences.

The ski infrastructure is in place for winter months, but it is leveraged in the summer so that you can hike up to a vista and take the gondola down, or visa-versa. My knees aren’t great. One day when we were here we hiked an awesome 14 miles. After that, my knees were just DONE. Taking the lift down the last 2-3 miles and then taking the bus back to where we started was a fantastic option. We had a glorious hike, and my knees were thankful we made it to the lift just before it closed for the day. Note: as you plan your hikes, be aware of closing times if you plan to take the lifts!

The trails are really well marked and well worn, and with hundreds of miles of trails, the possibilities are endless. There are great guidebooks that offer details on each hike including length, difficulty, and what time to be back in order to catch a bus. They offer comprehensive route instructions and maps that can be very helpful. Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena is a good one.

You can pack a picnic, but it’s really a lot of fun to enjoy the extensive network of rifugios (mountain huts) that are dotted along the trails. Some offer simple amenities that are enjoyed and appreciated mid-hike. Others serve delicious hot food and even offer accommodations for through hikers. They are absolutely charming! There is nothing like delicious local food and a cold beer while gazing at the mountains after a long hike.   

There is Delicious Alpine Cuisine in the Dolomites

You know that we love food and wine, and the Dolomites do not disappoint! Food in this region is a really unique blend of Italian and Austrian cuisine.

Visiting these mountains gives you a chance to experience rustic local foods like mushrooms, polenta and barley. We love the sauerkraut with crispy speck (smoked ham) and plates of incredible local cheeses. The Canederli dumplings are a fun surprise! These balls of deliciousness are a great way to use up stale bread, and are often flavored with cheese and speck. I’ve never had anything else like them. There are also lots of sausages, game and goulash, and don’t leave without enjoying some apple strudel!

As you drive north from Trento to Bolzano, you will see many vineyards with a very unique training system on the mountain slopes. This is where Alto Adige wines are produced.

Like much of Italy, the Dolomites are home to a long winemaking tradition. Alto Adige is one of Italy’s smallest winegrowing regions, but because of the geography here, it is also multifaceted. These are authentic wines with their own original character.

Most of the grapes are white varietals including Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay. Two indigenous varieties of red grapes are also cultivated here. These are Schiava and Lagrein. Pairing local wines with cheese and speck from the same region, is absolutely delicious. There are wine trails that you can travel on by foot or by bike so that you can visit local vineyards and sip and savor along the way.

There are Fantastic Spas in the Dolomites 

I think of the towns and villages here as ski towns, and many of them have stunning spa facilities you can enjoy all year long. Many of the hotels are “wellness hotels” and may include a sauna, steam room and hot tub. It can be wonderful to treat yourself to some time in the spa after a long day of hiking, biking or skiing, depending on the time of year you are here.  

There are Beautiful Hotels in the Dolomites Italy

There really are some stunning hotels in the Dolomites. There is a wide variety to choose from including luxury hotels, boutique hotels, and local budget hotels. Finding the one that will work best for you depends first on where you want to be located.

We like to stay in Castelrotto and a locally owned hotel called Hotel Zum Turm has served us well. It is run by a husband and wife team and we enjoy their warm hospitality, excellent breakfasts and delicious dinners in the on-site restaurant. It is very easy to take a bus to the gondola that takes you up to the Alpe di Siusi for some amazing hikes. You can also drive up if you reach the mountain road before 9:00 am. After that, traffic is limited to those with reservations, until after 5:00 pm.

If your budget allows, you can also stay in more upscale accommodations. We often have clients traveling for a special birthday or anniversary. and it’s fun to book them in a place that is truly celebratory. One recent example is an itinerary we created for a couple celebrating their 15th anniversary. They stayed in this region for 3 nights before moving on to Venice and we recommended they stay up on the Alpe di Siusi. This gave them the chance to be closer to the hikes and biking trails they wanted to explore. We suggested the Hotel Goldknopf and it was a wonderful choice for them. There are SO many incredible options and it all depends on what you and your travel companions will enjoy most.

Quintessential resort towns like Corvara, Ortesei and Cortina are ideal places to base yourself while visiting the Dolomites. They have a wide range of accommodations available. Once you decide on your home base, look for lodging that meets your budget and has all the amenities that are most important to you. Or you can always hire us to find the perfect place for you and plan your whole trip!  

If you love mountain scenery, amazing food and wine, great outdoor activities and wonderful, welcoming accommodations, I highly recommend including the Dolomites in your Italy Travel Itinerary!

Dreaming of travel to Italy and/or other destinations in Europe? We can help with that! We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

travel plans to ireland

We absolutely love Ireland and it is such a joy to help people travel there. I hope that Ireland is on your list of places you want to visit in Europe. You will love it! If you’ve been there before, you know what I mean, and maybe it’s time to go back!

Where should you go and where should you stay while you are traveling in Ireland? We have some great ideas for you. Or, let us plan it all for you! Contact us to put together your custom vacation. We’d love to design a unique itinerary for you and your travel companions! We can even focus your tour on golf, traditional music or Irish whisky & Guinness if you want – when you hire us, it’s all up to you!

Ireland Road Trip

So, you are headed out on an Ireland Road trip! You can certainly travel through Ireland on a train or a bus, but the best way to see it is by car. You want to be on your own schedule – you really do, and touring Ireland by car allows you to do that. Part of experiencing Ireland is to slow down, soak in the view, meet the people and listen to the music every chance you get. It’s easiest to do that if you are able to come and go – but mostly stay – as you please.

Linger in a pub and carry on a conversation with someone who lives nearby. You are very likely in their neighborhood pub, and I bet it won’t be hard to get them to tell you all about where they live. One of the wonderful things about traveling in Ireland is they speak English – and sometimes you can even understand what they say! For sure, strangers will become friends, and you will remember your encounters and conversations for long after you return home.

Where should you go on a 7 Day Ireland itinerary?

This is not a simple question to answer, unless the answer is “it depends.” There are so many different ways to experience 7 days in Ireland. Each traveler is different and each group is unique, so they will get the most out of differing itineraries.

You will need to ask yourself some additional questions before you know where you should go. No two itineraries are the same whether you plan it for yourself or a travel advisor plans it for you. All the trips we create are unique and customized to our clients’ very specific dreams and desires. We ask lots of questions so we can discern what their perfect trip will be: Have you been to Ireland before? Are you traveling with kids? Teenagers? Parents? Do you enjoy traditional Irish music? Do you want to go Coasteering? (yes, look it up — it is awesome!) Are you comfortable driving a car on the left hand side of the road? Would you like a driver/guide to help you explore? Are you an outdoors person? Do you like to hike? Bike? Do you have a specific interest in history? Do you want to explore your family connections in Ireland? The list goes on, but you can see that where you should go involves a lot of thought and discussion before coming up with the best plan. But let’s start with a truly great 7 day Western Ireland Travel Itinerary.

Choose between Dingle and the Ring of Kerry

I am imagining that you are already on the west coast of Ireland. On this itinerary, with only 7 days, you will need to choose between the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula. The Ring of Kerry is spectacular. Know that it is bigger and busier than the Dingle Peninsula.

I like the idea of staying on Dingle, in or near Dingle. You may want to explore this quintessentially Irish town for part of a day. Take your time. Relax. Go to Murphy’s Ice Cream . Dive into the flavors and savor every cool refreshing lick. This ice cream is made with fresh farm milk from Irish cows, lots of local cream and free range eggs. You must visit a pub, or several. Have that conversation with a local and see what they love about living there.

Then head out on the Slea Head Drive. This article by Rick Steves is a great self guided tour and discusses all the major points of interest along the way. Be sure to visit Dunbeg Fort at 12.5 km, the beehive huts at 13.4 km, as well as all the view points along the way. Slow down and stop when you see something interesting, which will be often. You will be blown away by the beauty of the Wild Irish Coast.

If you have enough time, you could hike Mount Brandon, Ireland’s second highest mountain. The Mount Brandon from Baille Breac hiking route in Ballybrack takes 3-4 hours up and down and is a moderate hike. This is the most direct route up the mountain. If you would like a guide to take you, Celtic Nature Walking Tours does a fantastic job. I love hiking on my own, but going with a guide gives you a chance to learn more about the nature surrounding you and the people who have survived on this rugged landscape. It also gives you a chance to meet another local, and (as mentioned) I think meeting the people is really one of the best parts of traveling in Ireland.

I also recommend spending some time in Killarney National Park. Head over to Killarney early one day and wander this quaint, wonderful town. If you like biking, then you can check out Killarney Bike Rental to rent some bikes. Directly across from where you can pick up your bikes, you can take the cycle path to the national park.  Biking here is safer than on the roads on Dingle, and it is absolutely beautiful.

Another great plan is to bike the Gap of Dunloe. You can take a 2-hour boat trip through the Lakes of Killarney. You then cycle back through the Gap of Dunloe. Killarney Bike Rental will give you details if you ask. Take a picnic lunch with you (make arrangements in Dingle before you leave or pick up supplies in Killarney).

Which Direction should I go on the Dingle Peninsula?

On Dingle, tour busses drive clockwise. For the Slea Head portion of the drive, you will also want to go clockwise on Dingle. That way, you are not trying to get past them on an extremely narrow road coming from the other direction. If you are going clockwise, you are also on the coast side of the road so you’ll have better views.

Which Direction should I go on the Ring of Kerry?

In making your plans, know that tour busses drive counterclockwise around the Ring of Kerry. Therefore, you will probably want to drive clockwise any time you are on “the ring” if you want to avoid getting stuck behind a bus. Don’t try to travel the Ring of Kerry too fast. It is meant to be enjoyed. Again, stop when something is interesting (you’ll be stopping a lot!).

Spend 2-3 nights in Dingle, exploring this area. Really settle in and enjoy it. Take your time. Soak it in. Talk to the locals. You may not want to leave. However, you only have 7 days, so it’s time to move on. Plan to go north.

Head north to Doolin

Doolin is a tiny little place, but I love it and I think you will too. Lots of other people love it too, though, so it can get busy at times. Staying overnight gives you a chance to enjoy it without all the other people. You’ll likely be out and about during the day, so staying overnight here gives you a chance to feel more like a local. But if you don’t want to stay in this little “hub” you can stay in the surrounding area, but be sure to visit Doolin while you are nearby.

In order to save some time coming from Dingle, I recommend taking the ferry from Tarbert across the Shannon River. Booking your ferry reservations in advance will save you some money but not guarantee you a spot on the ferry. Shannon Ferries has noted that the ferries run on a first come, first served basis, so be sure to arrive early. Taking the ferry is really a lot of fun! Your drive from Dingle to Doolin should take about 3 hours. Again, be sure to stop and see anything that you find intriguing along the way. This is all about the journey.

Once you get to Doolin (assuming you decide to stay there), settle into your lodging and then explore the great outdoors. In order to miss some of the crowds at the Cliffs of Moher, I recommend a beautiful hike from Doolin to the Cliffs. It is possible to hike one way and take public transportation back to Doolin. You could also arrange for a taxi to pick you up at the end of your hike if you want, or take a picnic with you, take your time, and hike both ways.

The hike is about 4 miles and takes about 2 hours each way. If you would like to go with a guide, I recommend Pat Sweeney, for a really unique and wonderful experience. His tour starts at 10:00 in front of The Coffee Dock at the Doolin Inn. His hike takes 4 hours or so, one way, as he explains things as you go. The walk fee is only €25 per person and after the walk ends at Guerins Path, includes a taxi ride back to the starting point.

Finding good Craic in Doolin

Once you are back in Doolin, you really must go to Gus O’Connor’s Pub. Once you visit here, you may never want to leave. They have good food, good craic, and traditional Irish music sessions 7 nights a week. This is Ireland.

What is “craic” you say? If you are unfamiliar with this term, you will get to know it soon enough as you explore Ireland. You won’t find this word in Webster’s, but Wikipedia says “Craic or crack is a term for news, gossip, fun, entertainment, and enjoyable conversation, particularly prominent in Ireland.”

That is such a bland definition for such a lively term. When I took university students on study abroad trips to Ireland, they would often hear locals talk about a pub saying “There’s good crack in there”. The students were shocked!  Of course they thought the Irishman was talking about cocaine -- but what he or she really meant was good lively talk and great fun. It was fantastic introducing them to this particularly Irish expression. You’ll experience it all over Ireland, but there’s great craic in Gus O’Connor’s Pub in Doolin.

Visit the Aran Islands

Spend a day on one of the Aran Islands. It is an experience you don’t want to miss. I recommend that you go to Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands. You can get there by ferry from Doolin Pier with Doolin Ferry Company. Departure is at 11:00. Return ferry is at 4:15. Make sure to return to the pier before 4:00 to catch your ferry. If you miss it, you’ll be waiting until the next day to go back to the mainland.

Once you arrive on Inis Mor, you can rent a bike as soon as you get off the ferry. Aran Bike Hire does a terrific job. You can ask them all kinds of questions and they will tell you where to go and what to do while you are on the island. I like heading toward Dun Aengus Fort. The cliffs there are unbelievable – maybe even more spectacular than the Cliffs of Moher, without fences, barriers, or busses. You can also check out the Worm Hole if you have time. Ask about a map from Aran Bike Hire.

If you find that you are tired of biking or running out of time as you return to the pier, you can catch a bus to get back faster. Ask about this too when you rent your bike. I recommend asking about it even if you don’t think you need it. You may spend more time than you think exploring the island. It’s possible that getting back to meet your ferry could require taking the bus. You may get to chat with some locals in the process!

Poignant Stories in Ireland

When you take the time to talk with local people, you will often hear stories you didn’t expect. Beautiful hand knit Irish sweaters are incredible. You will see them everywhere, especially on the west coast. I learned that these sweaters actually have an interesting and sad history. They were originally knit for fishermen, going out to sea to catch food for their families and to sell. Each family had a different pattern knit into the sweater so that if their men died at sea, they would be able to identify them when they washed to shore. These are the kinds of things I want to understand as I travel. It makes my sweater both beautiful and meaningful.

Spend 2-3 nights in Doolin (or the area), exploring the area, visiting the Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands.

Driving from Doolin to Galway

On your drive between Doolin and Galway, I highly recommend visiting Moran’s Oyster House. Plan to be hungry when you head this direction. This is a very special place. If you don’t have time on your way in to Galway, you could come for dinner one night as it is only about a 20-25 minute drive.

We rarely go to the same restaurant twice because we want to try lots of different places. That said, we have been to Moran’s Oyster House many times and we keep going back. Their smoked salmon is like velvet in your mouth. Literally – like velvet. The restaurant is in a thatched cottage that is everything you think of when you think of Ireland. The oysters are out of the bay right in front of you. This is an exceptional place.

You could also drive through The Burren on your way to Galway. If you would like to really experience the Burren, I recommend hiking through the area. Heart of Burren Walks does a great job and they have a tailor made walk that is about 2 ½ hours.

Alternatively, it might be fun for you to travel along the flaggy shore and enjoy an oyster tour and tasting.

If you choose to drive through The Burren on your way to Galway, you could travel through Kilfenora and Carran stopping at Poll na Bron (a megalith) and maybe Caherconnell Fort. Then go on to Galway.

Galway

I also recommend that you spend 2-3 nights in Galway. I say 2-3 nights in each place so that you can choose how you want to spend your 7 days, and it offers you some flexibility. This is your trip after all! If you have the time, you might even want to extend your trip!

There is so much to see and do in Galway. The New York Times wrote a great article sharing what to do in 36 hours. That’s just about the right amount of time on this itinerary as you will also want to day trip to Connemara. You may also enjoy our 10 Reasons to Visit Galway post for more details on this great Irish city.

You can take a full day and visit Connemara, traveling through Moycullen, Oughterard, Maam, and Leenane. From here, if you are interested, you could visit visit shell fish farmers Kate and Simon Kennedy or go to Killary Sheep Farm and see a sheep dog demonstration. You will also want to visit Kylemore Abbey, Connemara National Park and the gorgeous town of Clifden. There is just so much to do and so little time! Choose carefully so that you don’t feel rushed through this spectacular scenery!

When is the best time to travel to Ireland?

In my mind, there isn’t a bad time to visit the Emerald Isle. That said, it can be a rather rainy and dreary country in the winter months. Expect rain and be prepared for it at any time of year.

You might want to be in Ireland for St. Patrick’s Day. It’s a special time to be there with shamrocks worn on everyone’s lapels as they watch a local parade to celebrate the day. Or, you might want to avoid the island at that time of year. Dublin is especially crazy on St. Patrick’s Day. It just depends on what you want to see and do!

I recommend going in May/June or September/October if you are able. That way, you can beat some of the crowds and the weather tends to be nicer. But really, go whenever you can – just go!

10 Days in Ireland Itinerary

This post is about western Ireland, but you might want to add on 3 or more days so you can see Dublin and the surrounding area. You might like to check out our Dublin Blog post, or you can check out our 10 Day Itinerary in Ireland for more ideas. You also haven’t considered kissing the Blarney Stone on this Western Ireland Itinerary. If that’s important to you, you’ll need to add more days to your journey.

In order to make the most out of your 7 days in western Ireland, you may want to fly into Shannon. If your flights are in and out of Dublin, you will want to add days to your vacation as it’s about a 4- hour drive across the country. And be aware - driving in Ireland always seems to take longer than you think it will. Sometimes you have to wait for sheep to cross the road!

Prepare for your trip to Ireland

Learn as much about Ireland as you can before you go. Watch movies about this remarkable country. Read some good books by Irish authors or about Ireland. I like Angela’s Ashes. It’s sad, but gripping.

What are your favorite movies about Ireland? The Quiet Man? Michael Collins? There are lots to choose from. Ireland’s difficult history has helped produce incredible writers and artists. You will be enriched by learning more about them.

I also encourage you to seek out opportunities to learn about the 1845-1849 potato famine (when ⅓ of the population died, ⅓ of the population left the country - many to go to the US, and ⅓ of the population stayed), and Ireland’s rocky history with England. Investigate the Troubles in Northern Ireland, and rejoice that there is a much better relationship between these two parts of the island now.

Before I leave you, please let me share my very favorite Irish joke. I try to get my friend to tell it to me every St. Patrick’s Day. You have to say it with an Irish accent, and it helps to have enjoyed some Guinness or Irish Whisky with friends before sharing:

What’s Irish and stays out all night?

Patty O’Furniture!

Enjoy Ireland! It is grand!

Would you like to visit the amazing Emerald Isle? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

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On that first Trip to the Cinque Terre, we flew from the U.S. to Florence, picked up a rental car, drove to Vernazza, parked the car outside of town, and walked to our hotel where we stayed for only 2 nights. I remember enjoying a glass of wine at the end of the harbor while waiting to check into our room. We enjoyed a fresh seafood dinner on the piazza with a cool sea breeze in the air. It was awesome.

We used jet lag to our benefit and got up early the next day to start hiking. We ended up going all the way to Riomaggiore (taking our time to explore each little village a bit on the way), taking a ferry back up the coast to Monterosso and then hiking back to Vernazza. We were exhausted, but extremely happy when we sat down to our second dinner of fresh fish in the piazza by the sea.

We have since returned several times, as 2 days was definitely not enough! I mean - if you only have 2 days, you can still see a lot…but if you can stay longer, you’ll be able to take your time and really soak it all in. We love hiking the trails, dining by the Mediterranean, eating gelato, enjoying fried seafood in a cone, swimming in the sea, getting to know the people, and taking more breaks along the way. We can’t get enough of this part of Italy!

Whether you have a day, or a week, or longer, spending time here will bring joy to your life. You will make wonderful memories, and if you’re like me, you’ll want to return again and again. Planning your time well is the key to getting the most out of your visit.

5 Towns of Cinque Terre

There are 5 stunning hillside villages in the Cinque Terre. Monterosso al Mare is the most northern town. Moving north to south you will come to Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and then Riomaggiore. Each one is similar, yet unique. There are both train and boat connections between most of the towns, making it very easy to visit them all.

They are also linked by footpaths which connect all 5 villages. The Sentiero Azzurro is closest to the water, easiest, and most famous. It is about 7.5 miles long if you hike from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. A devastating flood in October 2011 caused the southernmost sections to close for many years, but these are expected to open up soon. Checking with the local Tourist Information Offices (TI) in any of the towns will give you the most up to date information.

The trail between Vernazza and Corniglia is open. You can also hike the trail between Monterosso and Vernazza, although some signs say it is closed. There are also upper trails between villages that are open, and command spectacular views for those who are ready for some steep climbs. There’s also fewer crowds on the upper trails, which is an added reward for going up and down these amazing hills!

The trails lie within a national park, so you will need to pay to enter. It’s easy – there is someone in the booth at the entrance of the open trails who will sell you a ticket for about €7.50 for one day (€15 during the high season).

Monterosso is the largest of the 5 villages, and has the only long and sandy beach in the area. You can rent chairs and umbrellas and enjoy the sun and the waves crashing against the rocky coastline. Or you can sit and enjoy a spritz while people watching. That’s always a great option.

Vernazza is probably the most photographed village in the Cinque Terre. It has a natural pier and a tiny port surrounded by colorful traditional Ligurian houses. The inviting piazza is a spectacular place to enjoy a leisurely lunch, a spritz for aperitivo (do you see a theme here?), or a late seafood dinner. 

Corniglia is the middle village, and the only one that is not right on the sea. This lovely town is perched up on a cliff 100 meters above the Ligurian Sea. Corniglia probably has the least number of tourists, making it a little quieter than the other villages. The train station is right on the water, with the town high above the platform. Visitors climb nearly 400 switchback stairs in order to reach the village.

Manarola marks the beginning of the famous Via dell’ Amore (Lover’s Lane). It is a beautifully scenic footpath that takes you to Riomaggiore in only about 20 minutes. The village of Manarola has a tiny picturesque harbor with a boat ramp. Colorful houses face the sea and the tiny main piazza has lots of seafood restaurants ready to serve you

Riomaggiore is one more example of a beautiful village with colorful houses cascading into the Ligurian sea. They are gathered around a lovely natural harbor that is carved out between the rocky hillside.

These villages have overcome the disadvantages of a steep, uneven terrain. The history of people living in this region over the past millennium is absolutely remarkable. The area is truly a cultural landscape of incredible importance, with spectacular scenery all around. You will love it!

Best Places to Stay in Cinque Terre

The 5 villages of the Cinque Terre can be quite crowded, especially during the day in the summer. Travel off season if you can, but it’s always wonderful to stay in one of the villages overnight and experience how quiet they can be after most of the visitors are gone for the day. That said, there are limited accommodations, and they can be rather pricey. It’s best to plan early, and reserve your spot in the town of your choice as soon as you have your dates set. This is especially true if you are traveling there between May to October, as rooms book up quickly. 

There are more options in La Spezia and Levanto, and depending on where you stay, prices may be a little lower. You can easily reach the 5 towns by train from either of these villages as they are on the same train line. Portovenere is another wonderful option, and deserves visiting in its own right. There are good boat connections, and many towns and some little islands close by.

We tend to stay in Vernazza and love it. If you stay there, be prepared to climb a lot of steps to your accommodations. Once we stayed on the top floor of a building just off the main piazza. We climbed 71 steps each time we went to our room. It had a fabulous view from our very own terrace at the top (see picture, above). We definitely earned our fresh pasta, as we hiked all day, and then climbed lots of stairs before we could roll into bed at the end of our day! The accommodations, while very nice, were quite modest, and extremely reasonable at about $100 per night. That was in 2021 and prices have gone up post-pandemic, but places like this are still remarkably affordable (partly because of the stairs!).

How Long Will You Plan to Stay in the Cinque Terre?

The answer to this question is very unique to the people traveling. You could take a day trip to the Cinque Terre from Florence, and have a wonderful time, but I recommend staying longer. There is something very special about wandering the quiet, cobblestone streets and listening to the waves crash against the nearby rocks while enjoying your dinner, that is more enjoyable after most visitors have gone. It’s also nice if you don’t have to think about getting to your next location right away.

So, stay a while. Try to stay at least 2 nights. If you can stay longer, do. If you have the time and energy, stay as long as you can. If you can stay 4-5 days or longer, you’ll get to settle in and relax, take some incredible hikes, dine on fresh seafood every night, and truly soak in the ambiance of this beautiful slice of Italy.

What Should You Plan to Do While you are Visiting the Cinque Terre?

Whether you are able to stay in the Cinque Terre for a day, a couple of nights, or most of a week, you will have the chance to experience the beauty of this majestic area in a few primary ways. These include taking hikes, boating on the Ligurian Sea, and dining on fresh seafood and pasta every chance you get.

Hike in the Cinque Terre – You can hike a lot, or a little, while experiencing amazing views. So, we recommend hiking as much as you are able, limited only by time and energy. You will not run out of spectacular viewpoints. Visit the Tourist Information Office in any of the towns and get some advice, pick up a hiking map or book, fill up your water bottle, don your hat, slather on some sunscreen, and start hiking. You won’t have to go far before you reach another village where you can enjoy a gelato, or a glass of local wine, or a delicious meal.

Get Out on the Water in the Cinque Terre – You may want to take a ferry between towns, rent a boat to explore secret coves where you can swim and snorkel, or take a boat to a nearby island for dinner. Whatever you choose, having the chance to see these five villages from the perspective of the water is refreshing, beautiful, and fun!

Enjoy the Food and Wine in the Cinque Terre -  We are all about the food here at Euro Travel Coach, so we simply can’t recommend this aspect of the region enough. The Cinque Terre is the birthplace for pesto, so enjoy it on pasta, on focaccia, or any other way it is presented. You could even take a pesto making class while you are here!

You’ll see vines planted on ridiculously steep terraces throughout this region, so you know there is good wine here too! Enjoy it! Most of the wine is white and pairs beautifully with seafood. And there is simply nothing better than dining on fish that was caught just that afternoon, so take your time and truly savor it.

You will want to plan your time well in order to make the most of your day(s) in the Cinque Terre. But take the time to soak it all in – and plan to return for more.

Do you want to explore the Cinque Terre? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — I'm always available to talk about travel!!

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

The most popular of these paths is the Sentiero Azzurro (blue trail) and it shows up as blue on most maps. Although it can be rigorous at times, it is the easiest, most direct route between Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso.

However, since the devastating floods of 2011, this trail has been in a constant state of repair and sections are often closed. Checking with the local Tourist Information Offices (TI) in any of the towns will give you the most up to date information.

The last few times we were there, the only section that was officially open was between Corniglia and Vernazza. However, we discovered that Vernazza to Monterosso was being used, and was not blocked like the other lower sections. It is now officially open as well and more will be opening up soon.

Fees for Hiking the Cinque Terre

All the paths are maintained by the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre. There is a daily fee to use the coastal trail of €7.50 or €14.50 for two days. The prices double during high season to €15 or €29 for 2 days. If you have not purchased a pass in advance there are booths at the trail heads in each village to collect the fees. Info on passes, trail availability, maps, and more can be found on the Park’s website.

There is an extensive network of trails above the coastal trail and use of these higher trails is still free. While these trails are often quite strenuous, they are not heavily trafficked and offer some amazing views you can only get from these elevations.

Hiking the Cinque Terre Coastal Path

The Cinque Terre is a delight for day hiking. There are trails to keep you busy for days, there is always a place to grab lunch or panini and fruit for a picnic, and any of the villages make a perfect location to come back to every evening for a delicious dinner by the sea.

When we first visited in 2006 we hiked the whole Sentiero Azzurro in one day. Leaving early from Vernazza we hiked south through Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. From there we took a ferry up to Monterosso and hiked back to Vernazza. It was an amazing day but fair warning: the path out of Monterosso is a long, steep, tough climb at the end of the day. It becomes longer, steeper, and tougher if you spend a couple of hours in the wine cellar of a local you happened to meet in Riomaggiore!

Some of our Favorite Cinque Terre Hikes

On one of our most recent visits we specifically wanted to hike some of the higher trails and, in some cases, we were forced to if we wanted to walk between all five villages. We also stayed longer and had the luxury of exploring the villages themselves while spreading our hiking out over several days.

For us the most breathtaking hike was between Manarola and Corniglia. We started early from Corniglia while the temperature was still relatively cool. Trail 587 takes you steeply out of town and rewards you with beautiful vistas back over the village and along the coast. When the trail splits you can take 856 toward Volastra. The walk from there is relatively level as you follow the contours of the mountainside. Volastra is a small village with a restaurant and a mini mart. You can wander the streets and have a drink before plunging down to Manarola where you can take a dip in the dark blue swimming hole hiding behind the panoramic viewpoint on the edge of town.

The hike between Manarola and Riomaggiore is a steep up and down either direction. The view at the top is nice but the rest of the time you are concentrating on the climb or descent so much you have to remind yourself to look up if you want to enjoy the scenery.

We did a circular hike from Vernazza that turned out to be a lot more work than we anticipated, but it was still amazing. Leaving town towards Corniglia we headed uphill to the left just past the park “toll booth.” And by up, I mean up! This was the steepest, most difficult section we encountered. There are some amazing coastal vistas and bird’s eye views of Corniglia and Vernazza along the way.  The trail took us to San Bernadino where it leveled out some but was a long hike on trail 8a around to bring us back into Vernazza. There is another loop trail from Vernazza suggested by the park I plan to try next time.

The trail between Vernazza and Monterosso is the longest and perhaps most beautiful of the coastal trail segments. We left Vernazza one morning and enjoyed the hike, meeting very few people. The trail takes you through vineyards, woodlands, and a cat sanctuary. When we arrived, we explored Monterosso and had lunch before hiking back. From the Monterosso harbor it is possible to see all five villages down the coastline.

Maps for the Cinque Terre

Finding the right map for hiking the Cinque Terre can be frustrating. The map on the park’s website shows the whole system and color codes the trails. Blue=Tourist (easiest), Green=Hiking, Orange=Skilled, and Black=Closed. You can zoom in on sections you want to hike, but unfortunately it doesn’t show elevation or the trail numbers.

The site does provide some itineraries and suggested routes which may be helpful picking out a hike, but it doesn’t help too much when you are out on the trail.

They also have an app that has suggested hikes and a map that you can use while hiking. This map actually includes the trail numbers, which is much nicer. Search “Pn5t plus” on Apple or Google Play. Just be aware that connectivity can be a problem on the trails.

What we found most useful was the free map that is widely available at the TI Booths and hotels, etc. It is accurate and detailed and includes all the trail numbers. It’s easy to pick one up when you get there, and it gives you a chance to talk to a local about your plans, which is always informative and fun.

Getting Around in the Cinque Terre

All five villages are connected by a train system as well as ferries. We suggest trying both. The trains are fast and efficient but the views from the sea are spectacular. It also makes it easy to start or end a hike in any village and easily get back to where you are staying.

The longest we have stayed here at one time is five days, but we could have stayed longer, and we keep coming back because we love it here. The scenery never gets old and we still have not taken all the hikes we would like. It seems many people just hit the Cinque Terre for a few days at most, but there is plenty to see and do here to enjoy a longer stay. See our Planning a Trip to the Cinque Terre blog post for more info.

Do you want to visit Italy and hike the Cinque Terre? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy and all of Europe. We are experts in crafting custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — we are always available to talk about travel!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, the Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

From the golden light that inspired Van Gogh and Cézanne to the breezy charm of the Côte d’Azur, Provence is a real feast for the senses. It truly is a dream for any traveler looking to soak up some of the best of what France has to offer. It’s no wonder that Peter Mayle’s book, A Year in Provence, was a best-seller and watching the movie reminds me how much I want to return!

How to Spend your Time in Provence

There are so many things you could do during your time in Provence, and time is (sadly!) almost always limited. So it’s a good idea to have a plan for how you would like to spend your time when you are there!

Spending time in Provence gives you a chance to really enjoy a nice mix of activities that highlight the area’s rich culture, landscapes, and cuisine. Here are some different ways to make the most of your time there:

Explore Charming Villages: Wander through picturesque villages like Gordes, Roussillon, and L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, known for their narrow streets, historic architecture, and vibrant markets.

Visit Lavender Fields: Depending on the season (typically June to August), witness the beautiful lavender fields in full bloom, especially around the Plateau de Valensole.

Wine Tasting: Discover the region's renowned wines by visiting local vineyards and participating in wine tastings. Areas like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes de Provence offer excellent choices. We especially love Châteauneuf-du-Pape which typically blends Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre to produce a fantastic full-bodied red wine. And on a hot summer day there really is nothing like a Provence rosé.

Cultural Sites: Explore historical sites such as the Palais des Papes in Avignon, the Roman theater in Orange, and the Pont du Gard, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Outdoor Activities: Enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking in the Luberon Regional Park, cycling through vineyards, or kayaking in the Verdon Gorge.

Art and History: Immerse yourself in art at the Fondation Vasarely in Aix-en-Provence, visit Paul Cézanne’s studio to see how he worked and lived, visit the Carrieres de Lumières, and/or follow a self-guided path the some of the scenic spots where Vincent van Gogh lived and created many of his masterpieces. You can also delve into history at the Roman ruins of Glanum near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence or in Vaison-la-Romaine.

Provencal Cuisine: Indulge in Provencal cuisine with its emphasis on fresh produce, olive oil, herbs like thyme and rosemary, and dishes like ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and tarte tropézienne.

Relaxation: Take time to relax in the tranquil surroundings of Provence, whether it's lounging by a pool, visiting a spa, or simply enjoying a leisurely meal at a local café.

You’ll have to pick and choose what you want to do, but Provence offers a great blend of relaxation, culture, and natural beauty that can be tailored to suit your personal interests, and those of your travel companion(s).

A Week in Provence Travel Itinerary

A Road Trip through Provence is a wonderful way to see a great deal of what this region has to offer, and you can do a lot in about a week. Traveling by car offers a fantastic way to discover the area’s diverse landscapes, charming villages, vineyards, and historical sites. It will also give you the most flexibility to go where you want and explore to your heart’s content. It’s nice to have a home base and take day trips to many of the places you will want to visit in Provence. Having a plan will help you make the most of your time there.

We find that most of our custom itinerary clients have a better time if they stay longer in fewer places. Although you could travel through the region and stay in multiple places, it’s nice to find great accommodations that you love, and take short trips from there. That way you can really settle in to a place. So here we have a suggested itinerary for a memorable trip to Provence, using Avignon as a home base and taking days trips from there. It doesn’t include everything in the list above on how to spend your time in the area, but it will give you a great taste of the region and you can pick and choose the things you want to do most. Then, plan to return another time and see even more!

Day 1: Arrival in Avignon

• Morning: Arrive in Avignon and explore the historic city center. Visit the Palais des Papes, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and stroll across the Pont d'Avignon.

• Afternoon: Enjoy lunch at a local bistro and visit the Musée du Petit Palais for its impressive collection of medieval and Renaissance art.

• Evening: Relax with a dinner at a traditional Provencal restaurant, sampling local specialties like ratatouille and Côtes du Rhône wines.

Day 2: Explore the Luberon Region

• Morning: Depart from Avignon and drive to the Luberon region, stopping in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Explore its antique markets and canals. Visit the village of Gordes, known for its stunning panoramic views and ancient stone houses. Explore the Village des Bories nearby.

• Afternoon: Continue to Roussillon, famous for its red and ochre-colored cliffs. Take a walk through the Ochre Trail and visit the village's art galleries. Explore the Village des Bories and the Senanque Abbey (in season, typically June-July for lavender).

• Evening: Return to Avignon for dinner or dine in one of the charming villages of the Luberon like Bonnieux, with its panoramic views, or Ménerbes.

Day 3: Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

• Morning: Drive to Arles. Explore the Roman ruins, including the Amphitheater and the Roman Theater. Visit the Fondation Vincent van Gogh and stroll through the historic center of town. Explore the Van Gogh trail.

• Afternoon: Head to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Visit the Saint-Paul de Mausole Monastery, where Van Gogh stayed and painted. Explore the old town's boutiques and art galleries. Then drive to Les Baux-de-Provence. Explore the medieval village and visit the Carrieres de Lumières for a unique art experience where art and technology meet in an old limestone quarry.

• Evening: Return to Avignon and enjoy dinner at a cozy restaurant offering Provençal cuisine.

Day 4: Aix-en-Provence

• Morning: Travel to Aix-en-Provence. Visit the Cours Mirabeau, lined with cafes and shops. Explore the historic old town, including the Cathedral of Saint Sauveur and the Pavillon de Vendôme.

• Afternoon: Visit the Atelier Cézanne, where the painter Paul Cézanne worked. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at a café in Aix-en-Provence.

• Evening: Return to Avignon or stay in Aix-en-Provence for dinner, trying out local Provençal food and wine.

Day 5: Pont du Gard and Uzès

• Morning: Visit the Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman aqueduct and UNESCO World Heritage site. Take a walk along the river or explore the museum.

• Afternoon: Drive to Uzès, a charming medieval town and have lunch. Visit the Duchy of Uzès and stroll through its narrow streets lined with shops and cafes. Then drive to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, famous for its wine and visit one of the vineyards there for a tasting.

• Evening: Return to Avignon for dinner, savoring traditional Provencal cuisine.

Day 6: Departure

• Morning: Depending on your departure time, take a last stroll through Avignon or visit any sites you may have missed.

• Afternoon: Depart from Avignon, reflecting on your unforgettable journey through the heart of Provence! Begin planning your return trip!

This itinerary allows you to experience the highlights of Provence with its a mix of historical sites, beautiful countryside, cultural experiences, and culinary delights. It allows you to enjoy the essence of Provence at a relaxed pace, and you can adjust the schedule based on your interests and the time you have available.

Best Time to Travel to Provence

The best time to travel to Provence depends on when you can make time to go, your overall preferences and what you want to experience. Each time of year has its advantages.

1. Spring (April to June):

• Weather: Pleasant temperatures, ranging from mild to warm.

• Landscape: Vibrant with blooming flowers, especially lavender fields from late June onwards.

• Events: Cherry blossoms in April, local festivals, and outdoor markets.

• Advantages: Less crowded than summer, ideal for outdoor activities like hiking and exploring villages.

2. Summer (July to August):

• Weather: Hot and dry weather, with temperatures reaching their peak in July.

• Landscape: Lavender fields in full bloom, vineyards lush and green.

• Events: Numerous festivals and cultural events, such as music festivals in Aix-en-Provence and Avignon.

• Advantages: Long days for exploring, lively atmosphere, and outdoor dining.

3. Fall (September to October):

• Weather: Warm days and cooler nights, comfortable temperatures for outdoor activities.

• Landscape: Vineyards harvest season, changing colors in the countryside.

• Events: Wine festivals and harvest celebrations.

• Advantages: Crowds thinning out after summer, ideal for wine tasting and enjoying local produce.

4. Winter (November to March):

• Weather: Mild winters with occasional rain, colder in higher altitudes.

• Landscape: Quiet countryside, snow-capped mountains in the distance.

• Events: Christmas markets in December, truffle markets in January-February.

• Advantages: Lower prices, fewer tourists, ideal for exploring cities and indoor attractions.

Peak season is late June to August for lavender fields and vibrant festivals. It’s a wonderful time to be there, but it is busy. Shoulder season is my favorite time, April – May and September-October. During that time period you’ll enjoy comfortable weather and fewer crowds. If you go in the fall, you may also hit the harvest season, which can be fun. Off season is November to March. Visiting then would be quieter and you would find lower prices, but be aware that some places you’d like to visit and select restaurants may be closed or have reduced hours.

I recommend that you choose the time based on your interests: whether it's enjoying outdoor activities in mild weather, experiencing local festivals, or exploring in a more serene atmosphere.

Does planning a trip like this just seem a little overwhelming? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — I'm always available to talk about travel!!

Betsy Ball –  Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe.  She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients.   Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

Tuscany is such an extraordinary part of Italy.  I love visiting Florence and Siena and soaking in the history, art and architecture that escape from every brick and cobblestone.  But my favorite way to explore the Tuscan region is to spend several days in its beautiful, iconic countryside.  At a gentle pace, it is possible to stroll through hill towns and taste the beautiful wines that are some of the best in the world.  A 3-day itinerary in Tuscany for those who love wine is pure joy.

After the hustle and bustle of the beautiful Italian cities, you may wonder what to do with 3 days in the countryside. Let us plan it all for you!  Contact us to put together your own custom itinerary.  We would love to create a unique vacation plan just for you, or book the one described below for your small group.

Beautiful Toscana Wine

Certainly, Chianti is a famous and important Tuscan red wine, but I want to concentrate on the part of Tuscany’s wine region that produces Brunello and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  This slice of Tuscany is enchanting and in order to really get into the rhythm of the place and enjoy its unique food and wine, you need several days.  You also will likely need to have a car, especially if you want to visit some of the wineries.  Or you can book a driver or a driver/guide to take you from place to place. There is a lot to see – and taste!  You can read about the specific characteristics of these two wines in our blog Comparing Brunello and Vino Nobile Wines.  If you would like to experience the differences for yourself, spend several days in the area, and then plan to return.

Where to Stay to Taste Famous Tuscan Wine

I like to stay in one place for several nights so that I only have to unpack once.  If you look at a Tuscany Wine Map you’ll see that the lovely village of Pienza, famous for its pecorino cheese, is in between Montalcino to the west and Montepulciano to the east.  Pienza and its surrounding area is a lovely place to settle in for a few days.  If you remember the movie, The English Patient, or even the 1960’s version of Romeo & Juliet, you may already know Pienza, as this is where parts of these movies were filmed.

Choose a farmhouse or agriturismo or even stay at a winery to really get the flavor of the place.  Palazzo Massaini is an example.  This winery has several farmhouses where you can stay and enjoy an extraordinary view.  Then, take day trips, being careful to have a designated driver or a slow enough pace to allow you to negotiate the winding roads and rolling hills on the way home.  You could stay in Montalcino or in Montepulciano but I like Pienza because it’s in the middle.  Oh, and it’s also beautiful, with spectacular views of the Val d’Orcia. 

On your first night, ask your hosts for dinner recommendations for the last night of your stay.  Let them know if you would like an upscale restaurant or a spot where the locals dine regularly.  Share how far you are willing to drive and ask them to call and make a reservation for you. They will most likely be happy to suggest their very favorite places and help you decide where to dine on your last evening in Tuscany.

Day 1 - Explore Montepulciano and Montichiello

The town of Montepulciano is incredible for those who enjoy exploring all that Tuscan hill towns have to offer.  If you enter the town from the main gate at the bottom of the village, know that you will have a steep climb to get to the top.  Along the way, you will pass cellars and wine bars where you can taste this famous wine.  Montepulciano is littered with spots to try Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is made from the same grape as Brunello, but is somewhat less complex, with a little more finesse.

We really enjoy La Vineria di Montepulciano for a great selection from different makers, accompanied by beautiful charcuterie boards with local cheeses and dried meats.  One winery you can visit within Montepulciano’s historic walls is Talosa, whose historic cellar dates from 1500.  It is located under Piazza Grande and if you don’t want to be on any sort of schedule, you can simply visit their wine shop.  If, however, you’d like to have a tour and tasting, it is easily arranged, by appointment.  Be sure to call ahead and ask for a time when an English-speaking guide will be available.

On the way back to your home base of Pienza, stop by Montichiello and wander through the narrow alleys of this tiny hill town.  If your timing is right, you can enjoy a glass of wine al fresco while enjoying the sunset.  Then, enjoy dinner at Ristorante Daria and enjoy a selection personally selected for you from her cellar.

Day 2 -Tour of Tuscany in and around Pienza

On this day, there will be plenty to do in and around your home base. If you happen to be staying at a winery, ask to have a tour in the morning before you embark on the rest of your day.  Be sure to ask them questions about the area, and discover their personal story.  Learning about the winemakers themselves makes what you taste in the bottle all that more memorable.  Take the time to connect with some of the people who make Tuscany so special.

Spend part of your day strolling through the beautiful town of Pienza and be sure to stop inside some of the cheese shops and taste the local pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheese that is so important in this area.  Taste the different kinds – pecorino fresca, aged pecorino, pecorino with grape must, pecorino with red peppers, pecorino with truffles…. you get the idea.  Each one is delicious and unique.

Book a tasting at Enoteca di Ghino in Pienza and you will not be disappointed.  Here you will find wine from some of the best producers from some of the best vintages.  This enoteca also has wine from other parts of the world, but you are in Tuscany, Italy, so I recommend concentrating on the wines from this region.  But here you will find wine from some producers that make beautiful Italian wine from Tuscany, outside of Montalcino and Montepulciano.  For example, try Sassicaia from Bolgheri.  This region is still in Tuscany, but farther west. This Super Tuscan is a Bordeaux-style blend so it will be different than the 100% Sangiovese wines of Brunello and Vino Nobile.  Enjoy the many nuances of these different and spectacular wines.

After your tasting, why not pop in to several of the small shops and pick up some of the lovely cheese you tasted earlier, along with some spectacular charcuterie?  Select some homemade bread as well, remembering that Tuscan bread is unsalted. Historically, salt was expensive and Tuscany was a poor part of the world.  Those living there couldn’t afford salt for their bread.

Choose a nice wine to accompany your picnic and ask the vendor to uncork the bottle for you.  Request some plastic cups or maybe you can borrow some nicer ones – just be sure to return them when you’re done.  Take your fabulous meal to the edge of the city and find a bench or a low wall where you can relax and soak in the incredible views of the Val D’Orcia while you enjoy your picnic.

After lunch, visit a sheep farm where they make pecorino cheese. Podere il Casale offers a remarkable visit. It is not easy to find, but it provides a spectacular setting once you get there.  You could enjoy a tour (by appointment) or even take a cooking class with Sandra.  She and her husband are Swiss but they moved to Tuscany before there were very many visitors and they have made this beautiful land their home.

Alternatively, drive south to Bagno Vignoni and visit this ancient town that was likely known even in Etruscan times.  See the steam from the thermal waters drifting up toward the sky before their crescendo down the cliff.  Peek into the ruins of Roman baths and see where pilgrims stopped for rest while traveling along the Via Francigena, the ancient road that led from France to Rome.  You may want to spend some time soaking in the hot spring fed pools and relaxing in a Roman Sauna at the Albergo Le Terme Spa.

You may enjoy dinner in Bagno Vignoni at Osteria del Leone or head back to Pienza and duck into Latte di Luna, a traditional trattoria with local dishes such as handmade pici pasta, roast suckling pig, and duck with black olives.  This can be accompanied by a lovely bottle of wine from the Val d’Orcia.  You just drove through the vineyards that produce the grapes for what’s in your glass.  Be sure to leave room for some simifreddo alla nocciola (hazelnut ice-cream) for dessert.  In the summertime, you can dine al fresco in the piazza in front of the restaurant, shaded by large umbrellas.  You will want to book ahead, even if it’s not the high season, and note that Latte di Luna is closed on Tuesdays.

Day 3 - Enjoy some of Italy’s most prestigious wines from Montalcino

Today, take a leisurely drive west over the undulating hills of Tuscany and spend time in beautiful Montalcino.  Parking can be tricky, especially in the summertime.  Your best bet is to park near the Fortress at the top of town.  Walk inside the ancient defensive walls and visit the Enoteca la Fortezza inside.  Here, you can taste several Brunellos and compare the difference between traditional producers and those who use more modern techniques.  The staff speak good English and will answer your questions and offer advice.  From inside the enoteca, ask for permission to go upstairs which provides access to the wall walk where you can see vineyards in every direction.  Some sommeliers can tell you which side of the hill your wine came from by the aromas and taste in the glass. 

Take your time exploring the nooks and crannies of Montalcino.  Visit the wine shops and ask lots of questions.  Admire the coats of arms that adorn the Palazzo dei Priori, built in the early 14th century.  When your legs get tired, have lunch at Re di Macchia and try the pici pasta with ragu, or the nettle pesto and porcini ravioli.  Or, return to the enoteca in the Fortress for a nice lunch.  You can either enjoy your meal inside, surrounded by hundreds of wine bottles, or dine outside in the sun, within the castle walls.

After lunch, visit one of the beautiful Brunello producers for a tour and a tasting.  You’ll want to make an appointment to ensure availability and an English-speaking guide.  Getting to know more about a specific wine – how it is produced and the family who makes it – is an amazing experience, and part of why you visit Tuscany’s wine region.  If it’s a wine that is imported to your home country, every time you see a bottle made by that producer at your favorite wine shop, you will remember setting foot in the vineyard where the grapes grow to make that wine.

Two producers that offer wonderful English tours are Banfi and Altesino.  These vintners make excellent wine that is exported to North America, so you’ll be able to find their wine at home.  They both offer visitors a chance to tour their facilities and taste a variety of their wines in a spectacular setting.  Alternatively, request a recommendation for a smaller producer from one of the wine shops in Montalcino.  If you ask them, they may even set up an appointment for you.

Enjoy the dinner arranged by your lodging hosts on the night you arrived.  As they live in the region, they are a wonderful resource and often know the very best choices for their guests.  Put yourself in their hands and trust their recommendations.  In the morning when you have to depart, let them know about your favorite dishes and the wine you shared the night before.

This 3 Day tour of Tuscany for wine lovers is just enough to whet your appetite.  If you’re anything like us, you’ll want to return again and again.

Are you planning a trip somewhere in Europe? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — I'm always available to talk about travel!!   

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

We wrote about our first trip to the Loire Valley in 2017 when we visited with our family over spring break. We used our own Trip Planning Services and shared our Travel Plans as we prepared for that trip which really fostered our love for the region. We have since created Custom Itineraries for many clients so they could also explore this special part of France only 2 hours from Paris. We would love to plan an amazing trip for you, too! Send Betsy an email if you’d like to talk about what you might enjoy most while you are there!

Visit the Iconic Chateaux of the Loire

The Loire River actually stretches from the middle of the country to the Atlantic but we suggest staying in the heart of the Loire Valley in the city of Amboise. It is centrally located and has easy access to many of the region’s popular sites. Other nice towns that work well as a base are Blois, Montbazon, and Villandry. There are easy trains from Paris to the city of Tours and from there you can rent a car for the easiest way to get around the area.

The central Loire Valley has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and from Amboise you are surrounded by the chateaux built by the kings and nobility that used this area as a retreat from the hectic city life of Paris. There are literally hundreds of castles and elaborate residences dotted along the valley, as well as spectacular churches and abbeys.

Amboise has a beautiful chateau right in town. Some of our other favorites include Chenonceau, Villandry, and Usse. Perhaps the most famous is the opulent Chambord. If you only have 3 days, plan to go into one or two and simply admire the others from the outside.

Taste what the Loire Valley has to offer

Of course, being France, the culinary delights are plentiful. There are Michelin starred restaurants dotted along the countryside as well as nice little bistros in every little village.

We absolutely love a family run country restaurant called Vincent Cuisinier de Campagne. This farm-to-table spot is popular among the local winemakers and grows much of its own food including fruits and vegetables, chickens, and rabbits. One night when we were there, our daughter left her scarf in the restaurant and ran back inside to retrieve it. Inside she found a bunny hopping down the hall. She thought it was probably going to be dinner soon. I prefer to think of it as a house bunny, but I must say, the rabbit on the menu was delicious!

Take a Bike Ride from Chinon

Chinon is one of the bigger cities in the valley as well as the name-sake for one of the more famous wines in the region. It is a nice place to spend several hours wandering the streets, doing a little shopping, and checking out the fortress there.

For a taste of the local wines we suggest La Cave Voltaire. You can taste some wines along with some light fare and pick up a bottle or two to take with you.

We also like renting bikes from La Petite Reine and following the path by the river. Pick up some bread and cheese in town and bike to the Enfin du Vin wine store in Candes Saint-Martin. Chat with the owner and purchase some wine based on his advice. Ask him to open it and lend you some glasses and enjoy a picnic by the river.

Visit some Loire Wineries

Though not as well known as Burgundy and Bordeaux, the Loire Valley produces some of the best wine in France and there’s something for everyone. From the sparkling Crémant that rivals neighboring Champagne, to the bone dry Sancerre made with Sauvignon blanc, to the red Cabernet franc of Chinon, the region abounds in high quality wine.

We like how unassuming many of the wineries are. When you stop for a tasting here, it is often the owner serving you and showing you the cellar. Many places don’t require a reservation and often the tastings are free, but we usually buy a bottle or two to show our appreciation. Plus these are very good wines and are quite affordable.

One of our favorite wineries to visit is Vincent Gaudry in Sancerre. Although it is a bit of a drive from Amboise, if you’re a fan of the stony minerality of these famous white wines, it is worth the drive. Vincent was one of the first biodynamic growers in this region and likes to offer tastings in his small cellar. His wines are a remarkable expression of the terroir and he is a gracious host. When we were there with our daughter, he asked her what year she was born and pulled a dusty bottle of 1992 to let us taste!

Wander through a Village Market

Many of the villages have market days where local growers sell their produce. We love visiting these local markets and often pick up picnic supplies for later in the day. On Saturdays the village of Blois hosts a wonderful market. There is also a local chateau (of course!) so pick up some meats and cheeses, some fruit and a baguette and enjoy a picnic on the grounds of the Chateau de Blois!

Take a Balloon Ride

The natural beauty of this area is what attracted the wealthy here to build their chateaux. What more romantic way to see it than from a hot air balloon? Sip a Crémant (sparkling wine made outside of the Champagne region in France) while watching the vineyards, chateaux, and rolling countryside from above. We have used France Montgolfières and can highly recommend them.

A Loire Itinerary of about 3 Days

Let’s put it all together. Choose a village to stay and get settled in to your hotel. Check out the area and visit the local chateau. On the next day, visit a winery or take a bike ride along the river and enjoy a picnic lunch with supplies from a local market. Celebrate your visit with a balloon ride and a meal in a fabulous restaurant. Wow, I may have to join you!

Do you want to make this trip without investing all the time and research necessary to arrange it? We can help with that! Remember, we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. You can always send Betsy an email to discuss the possibilities. We would love to help you make your travel dreams to Europe come true!

We do recommend that you consider travel insurance when you are planning your trip. We offer travel insurance through Squaremouth, to help you compare quotes and evaluate your options. We feel this is a good way to make the best decision based on your needs. Just so you know, your coverage may be void if you have been drinking, so you will want to consider this as you look at different policies. You can find an in-depth explanation of the subject through Consumer Advocate.
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Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

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How long should you spend on a Barolo wine tour in Piedmont, Italy?

What a good question!  The answer is that it really depends on your interests and your travel pace.  How much do you love this wine? Are you doing other Piedmont wine tours in the area?  How much time do you have?

Piedmont means "foot of the mountains" and on a clear day you can see that the region is aptly named.  You can drink wine anywhere, but drinking a Barolo while looking at the Alps in the distance and the vineyards where the grapes that are in your glass were grown makes a visit here a distinctive experience.

We find the Barolo wine prices overall to be a good value for the quality.  The Langhe is a sub-region of Piedmont and is where Barolo and the surrounding towns of this wine region are located.  It is spectacularly beautiful and we love it all so much that we spent two harvest seasons here!  We haven’t gotten enough yet so we keep coming back and we enjoy sharing the region with like-minded wine lovers. If you enjoy the Barolo region’s offerings, you could stay here for a long time and be very happy, but 4 days here will give you a good taste, both literally and figuratively.

I will give you five items I would definitely include in an itinerary for the Barolo region.  All of this is feasible in about 4 days.  Insert some amazing hotels and restaurants and you’ll have a great time!  If you’d like help planning, Euro Travel Coach is here to make it an absolutely incredible trip!

Visit each of the 5 hill towns where Barolo wine is produced 

Barolo is called the “king of wine” for good reason.  Made from the Nebbiolo grape (Nebbia means “fog” in Italian), this deep, rich, red wine is one of the best in all of Italy. The vineyards used to produce Barolo and Barbaresco DOCG wines (the highest regulatory level) in Piedmont were given UNESCO World Heritage status in 2014.  

The area that makes up the Barolo wine region consists of 11 communes, but there are 5 major villages that are most important to visit when you are there.  These are: Barolo, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto.  Each one is an historic village and most have medieval castles that are just waiting to be visited. 

These are tiny hill towns and you can visit several in a day.  Many of the local villages have markets and the market moves to a different village each day.  It’s a great idea to look up where there will be a market on the days you’ll be in the area, and plan to visit that village on the day you are exploring.  Get some great charcuterie, some cheese from Piedmont, a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine for a picnic.  Find a bench or a rock or a spot with a view of the surrounding vineyards and enjoy your lunch.  This is a wonderful way to enjoy an afternoon.

Many of these towns also have festivals at different times during the year. For example, Montforte Jazz is in July & August and the famous Alba White Truffle Fair is in October & November.  Plan to attend one of these – or go at a different time so there are not so many people and lots more parking spaces available in each town.

Taste what the Barolo area has to offer

The flavors of Piedmont are legendary and you will want to taste them all.  There are 42 Michelin starred restaurants in Piedmont and about 1/4 of them are in the Langhe.  This is the home of the famous Alba white truffle. If you are here in October or November, you will have a chance to have these precious tubers shaved onto your pasta, or included in other incredible local dishes.

Know that you don’t have to visit a Michelin starred restaurant to enjoy an amazing meal here.  Some of the most special evenings are spent in modest osterias and trattorias with people who simply serve the food they have been making all their lives.  They are warm and wonderful people who extend their hospitality graciously.  You would have to work very hard to find a disappointing meal in this area.

The Langhe is also a center for hazelnuts.  Nutella is produced at the Ferrero factory in nearby Alba and hazelnut products are everywhere.  Bagna cauda, carne cruda and agnolotti al plin pasta are just some of the other wonderful dishes that are typical on a Barolo menu that represents the region.  Why not take a cooking class and learn how to make some of them?  Then you can enjoy what you made for either lunch or dinner, accompanied by wine, of course!

To discover more of the tastes of the area, read our Favorite Restaurants in the Barolo Region.

Wine tasting in Barolo and at your favorite Barolo wine producers

There is a wine shop in Barolo called La Vite Turchese that provides a truly individual experience for each guest.  Of course you can go to wine shops elsewhere -- but here, the passionate owners do not simply serve you a glass of something from the region.  They listen to what you think you like, discuss what you think you want, and then bring wines to taste along with maps and knowledge of the region that is unsurpassed.  We have tasted a lot of wine all over the world and this place, with Stefano and Elisabetta at the helm, is like no other shop we've ever visited.  You leave La Vite Turchese knowing more about the region, its wine, its history, its future and what you like.  A visit here will help you appreciate the wine list at local restaurants and visits to Barolo producers in the area even more.

Touring and tasting at a winery is also a great way to spend an afternoon here – or if you’re up for it, start in the morning and taste all day with different producers!  You will want to make an appointment.  Smaller wine makers may not speak English so you will want to consider this as you make your reservations for a tasting.  We recommend Marchesi di Barolo or Vietti but there are many others.  When you find a wine you particularly enjoy, see if you are able to get an appointment with an English-speaking host.

If you want to learn more about the wines from this region check out our blog, Comparing Barolo and Barbaresco Wines.

Hike through the Barolo vineyards

There are trails between all the hill towns in this area and they take you right through the beautiful patchwork of vineyards of nebbiolo grapes.  Hiking from Barolo to Monforte d’Alba, having lunch with a bottle of Nebbiolo and then returning back to where you started, is a great way to spend your day.  Another option is to begin in Barolo and hike uphill through the vines to La Morra.  Enjoy the panoramic views and then go to a tasting at Marcarini, either in their tasting room, or make an appointment for a tour and tasting in their winery, which lies just below the city walls.  Make it a full loop by returning through Annunziata and back to Barolo. 

If you would like to try some of the great wines from the Barolo region see An Insider’s Short List of Favorite Barolo Wines.

Ride a vespa or a bike between each iconic city

Another great activity here is to rent a vespa or a bike for the day and ride between all the little villages, stopping in each one to explore the cobblestone streets, galleries, enotecas and people that make this area such a joy.  They call them hill towns for a reason – most of these villages are on the top of a hill, so if you choose a bike instead of a vespa, why not try an electric bike?  That will make your return easier, especially if you decide to enjoy some grappa or moscato d’Asti after your meal. 

A Barolo itinerary of about 4 days

Now let’s put it all together!!  Visit each one of the five Barolo hill towns on a vespa or a bicycle, dine on some of the best food Piedmont has to offer, attend a cooking class, hunt truffles or visit a hazelnut farm, hike through the vineyards between villages, and enjoy wine tasting at wine shops, enotecas and wineries.  Magnifico!!.  

Where should I stay?

You might wonder which town you should stay in when you are in the Barolo wine region.   There are pros and cons of each one.  Do you want to stay in a B&B, an agriturismo, a spa or a resort?  If you like, we can talk in detail about your options and plan it all for you!  Contact us to put together your custom vacation.  We’d love to design a unique itinerary just for you or your small group.  If you are planning the trip yourself, we recommend staying in Barolo, La Morra or Monforte d’Alba, but there are other good choices, too. You will love this part of Italy!

Listen to a podcast of us talking with Chris Christensen at The Amateur Traveler. We had a fun time speaking with Chris and this blog is a reflection of that broadcast. Travel to the Piedmont Region of Italy – Episode 662

Would you like to visit the Barolo region or other parts of Europe? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — we’re always available to talk about travel!!

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the Texas A&M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

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Venice is on nearly everyone’s wish list for good reason.  It is unique, romantic, historic and truly one of the world’s most amazing cities. It also seems to be a destination for many cruise lines sailing in the Adriatic Sea. Venice certainly is one of our favorite stops on our 10-day Italy Itinerary. Because of all this, it can be quite crowded and busy. But if you plan well, you can spend a couple of days in this dream city and have a wonderful experience.

Plan to Explore Venice on your Feet

We love exploring this city by foot, taking the little side streets and getting lost along the smaller canals. If you want to stay in a less crowded, less touristy area, look into the sestieri (districts or neighborhoods) of Cannaregio, Santa Croce, or San Polo. Not only are accommodations and restaurants more affordable, you’ll stay away from the crowds even in the middle of the day. You can check out our favorite hotels in Venice, and soak your feet at night.

Get to Know Venice

Venice is divided into six sestieri with the Grand Canal snaking its way through the middle. The winding of the canal makes keeping your sense of direction a challenge at times. Get a map from your hotel or at a Tourist Information Center (TI) and get a good feel for the city and what you might want to see. Cannaregio is home to the Jewish Ghetto and Museum and some of the most characteristic streets for wandering. In Castello you will find the old shipyard of Arsenal and the Naval History Museum. San Marco is full of tourists during the day who are trying to see Piazza San Marco, the Bridge of Sighs, Doge’s Palace, Campanile, and Rialto Bridge. Cross the Rialto Bridge into San Polo to find the food and fish markets. Santa Croce is probably the oldest, least crowded part of Venice and a good choice for budget hotels and restaurants. Dosoduro is home to both the Guggenheim and Academia museums and also has lively nightlife. 

Things to do in Venice in 2 Days

Start early! Even though large cruise ships are now banned from the center of Venice, by 10:00 many cruise passengers will have begun to flood the streets. The major sights become inundated with people, especially in the summer. But if you get an early start it can be surprising how empty the city seems. Get up early and visit Piazza San Marco and the Bridge of Sighs, then make your way over to the Rialto Bridge to avoid the crowds that will fill these sites later in the day. We can help you plan a trip with a custom Italy Itinerary if you’d like to explore more than Venice.

Explore the Rialto Food and Fish Markets

We love the open-air markets in Europe and the markets near the Rialto Bridge in the San Polo sestiere are some of the best. Coming from San Marco, cross the bridge and make your way along the Grand Canal to explore these markets and get some great views across the canal. The produce is lovely and the colors are a treat for the eyes. The fresh fish is brought in on boats and unloaded early in the morning. You can see chefs buying fish for their restaurants as well as locals looking for something for their table.

Be sure to remember the market is closed on Sunday, so you will want to plan around that.

If you choose accommodations with a kitchen, you could make fresh Venetian Vongole e Cozze (Venetian Seafood with White Wine Sauce) using the food purchased at the local market!

Cruise the Grand Canal

We love walking the streets and alleys of Venice but it is essential to see it from the water as well. You have several options with the most economical being a Vaporetto. Essentially a water bus, this is one of the main forms of public transportation in Venice. These big boats move up and down the Grand Canal, as well as out to some of the other islands, all day long. There are also companies that offer cruises for smaller groups. Check the TI for a company that best suits your needs. You can also book a private water taxi that can take you down some of the smaller canals that the bigger boats cannot navigate.

Take a Gondola Ride

One of our many visits to Venice was with our kids when they were 11 and 14 (that was a while ago!). Our Gondola ride was one of the more memorable events during our 25 day European holiday.

Your Gondola ride does not have to be pre-planned. Avoid the busy stations on the Grand Canal and find a spot on one of the side streets. Also talk to your Gondolier to agree on a price, length of ride, and where the ride will take you. It will also help you know if the gondolier’s English is good enough to tell you about what you’re seeing. And find out if he’ll sing if that is important to you! The boats are beautiful and well appointed. It also takes great skill to navigate the canals and watching the gondoliers work is part of the fun. You can even find boats with accordion players, but you’ll pay more. If you want, you could even bring your own bottle of wine and some glasses on board to enjoy.

Visit a Major Venetian Site

Enjoy some of the major sites in Venice.  These include Basilica San Marco, Doge’s Palace, Campanile, Gallerie dell’accademia, Peggy Guggenheim Museum, and San Sebastiano. You really can not tour all of these in two days. Pick one or two that you most want to see. Consider booking a private guide. They can help you avoid the lines and give you a more immersive experience.

Visit Lesser-Known Churches

San Marco is spectacular but everyone wants to see it.  Even if you “skip the line” it is often quite crowded. It’s nice to also see some less visited churches while you are in Venice. One of our favorite churches is the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa. It is a Franciscan church and also known simply as the Frari Church. It is also home to some incredible art by Donatello, Bellini, and Titian and well worth the nominal entrance fee. Other churches worth a visit are San Giorgio Maggiore (with a great tower view back into the city), Santa Maria della Salute, and Santa Maria Assunta (I Gesuiti). Or simply wander into any of the numerous churches you will pass as you get lost along the canals!

Sample Some Cicchetti in Venice

As you explore the streets in some of the less touristy areas, look for the spots that have plates of food on the bar. These cicchetti are somewhat like Spanish tapas (don’t mention that to a Venetian!) and a fun, inexpensive way to have lunch or a light dinner. You can usually get a small glass of house wine for about €1-€2 and choose from a menu on a board for the daily snacks. Get a couple that look good and move down the street to try another location. It’s a fun way to explore and meet some locals. For more about food in Venice check out our Venetian Vongole e Cozze post.

Experience Things To Do in Venice at Night

Stay out late! Sometime near dinnertime the cruisers head back toward their ships and the streets begin to clear again. Nighttime in Venice can be magical. Do at least one Vaporetto ride at sunset or later. Or save your cruise or Gondola ride for the evening, but be warned, prices rise considerably at night. Many of the major buildings are lit up and the city is beautiful. The cafes on Piazza San Marco spill out onto the square and musicians serenade the clientele. If you don’t want to overpay for a coffee or cocktail, stroll slowly by and enjoy the vibe, then cut down one of the side streets for a more affordable nightcap. If you’d like something more upscale, that can easily be accommodated too!

Visit One of the Neighboring Islands

If you are staying more than two days you might consider a day trip to one of the other islands in the lagoon. Murano is a mecca for glass blowing while Burano is famous for its colorful houses and lace. Lido features long sandy beaches while San Giorgio Maggiore has a beautiful church and a tower that rivals the Campanile with better views of the city. Pick one and enjoy a day with fewer tourists and an alternative to the Venetian lifestyle.

Venice has struggled with over tourism over the years, but they are working to combat that challenge. The city has started charging an entry fee to daytrippers - anyone not staying overnight - during the busiest months of the year. As this itinerary is for 48 hours, this won’t apply to you, but it may help to keep the crowds to a minimum. And with this plan, you’ll be able to thoroughly enjoy Venice and at times feel like you have it to yourself!

Are you ready to visit this amazing city? We can help with that! We can find you a great hotel, restaurants, and activities/guides that will make your visit to Venice one you will never forget. Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — we’re always available to talk about travel!!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, the Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

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Lately, I have found myself really enjoying my KÜHL FREEFLEX Roll-up Pant. Greg has enjoyed KÜHL for a while now, but this is my first pair and I’m so glad I gave them a try!

Worn in Italy

One of the first times I wore these pants was on a full day of hiking in the Dolomites. We were staying near Badia, which is a great home base for hiking in this region.

We went to a local bakery to pick up cornetti and quickly enjoy a few espressos. I know that’s not exactly the healthiest breakfast before for a big hike, but it worked for us! Then we stopped in a small local grocery store to pick up supplies for the trail, and drove to the trail head.

We hiked about 12 miles that day, with a stop for lunch at a great rifugio frequented by hikers and bikers on the trail. When we returned to town we got a spritz with a mountain view and then headed to dinner on a family run farm. I was comfortable in my hiking pants all day and didn’t even feel that I needed to change for dinner.

Comfort You Don’t Have to Think About

So, they are great for a long hike, but I have to say, these pants are really comfortable, even on a plane! They fit nicely, the waistband is wide and soft, and the fabric stretches without losing its shape. Not having to keep pulling my pants down throughout the flight is a real plus too. I hate it when my pants continue to ride up throughout the flight. These pants fall nicely back into place just as soon as you stand up. It’s a very nice improvement over some other choices I’ve made over the years.

Roll Them Up, Stay Cool

Another feature I really like are the roll-up snaps. It gets really hot in the middle of a summer afternoon in Europe and with these pants I can roll them up to capri length and keep going. No need to change, no need to be uncomfortably hot – I can just make a quick adjustment to my pant length and I’m good to go.

Easy Packing, Easy Care

Like most travelers, I’m always thinking about luggage space. These pants are lightweight and pack down small, which is a big win when you’re trying to fit multiple weeks of clothes into a carry-on bag. They also dry quickly, so you can wash them in a hotel sink, hang them overnight, and wear them again the next morning.

From Trails to Tables

And these pants really pass the “super versatile” test. I can wear them hiking during the day, brush off the dust, and wear the same pair to dinner at a great osteria or bistro at night. With tennis shoes or sandals, a t-shirt or a blouse, they work really well! With a scarf as an accessory, I even feel dressed up while still in my hiking pants.

The Little Things Make a Difference

The deep pockets are perfect for most of what I want to take with me, and the stitching is subtle enough that they don’t look like purely “outdoor pants.” Add in the UPF sun protection and wrinkle resistance, and you’ve got a pant that works hard without ever looking fussy. That said, I really wish the side pockets were a little deeper. My phone doesn’t fit all the way in so that I can snap it into the pockets completely. That is really the only thing I don’t like about these pants.

Why They’ll Always Be in My Bag

When I pack for Europe, I want every piece of clothing to earn its spot in my suitcase. The KÜHL FREEFLEX Roll-up Pant has officially made the cut. They’re comfortable enough for long flights, versatile enough for both city strolls and hikes, and stylish enough to wear out to dinner. That combination is hard to beat.

So if you’re looking for a travel pant that will carry you from morning espresso to evening aperitivo—and on to digistif—I can wholeheartedly recommend these.

Guys, if you are looking for a great pair of hiking pants, check out Greg’s review of the KÜHL Radikl. Pant.

Dreaming of a hiking trip in Europe? We can help with that! We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Betsy Ball –  Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe.  She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients.   Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

Planning Your Rome Itinerary

When I create itineraries for clients going to Italy, they often want to include Rome.  And why not?  Rome is absolutely amazing!  It is romantic, historic, beautiful, enchanting and famous for good reason!  Rome can also be overwhelming.  Trying to visit its most important sites in just a few days can be daunting.  You also have to keep up with how and where to get tickets because sometimes things change! Planning the right itinerary for you and your travel companions is key to getting the most out of your time here, whether you are traveling as a couple, as a family, or with friends.

Find Lodging in a Central Rome location

Find a place to stay in a central location.  It may cost a little more, but being centrally located is worth the investment.  Pockets of Rome are extremely walkable.  For those places you want to see that are a bit further away, public transportation can get you where you want to go and save you a lot of time.  Taxis are also readily available.  You will not want to have to deal with having a car.  Traffic, parking and ZTL (Limited Traffic Zones) will make your time in Rome more stressful, which is definitely not what you want!  So ditch the car and enjoy the city for all its worth, starting with lodging near the center.

Plan ahead for your Rome Itinerary

It’s nice to visit Rome in the off season if you can.  This city can be really hot in the summer, and full of tourists.  If you do go there in the summer, remember that not all accommodations have air-conditioning so you may want to consider that in making your reservations. Also, some places close in August so the owners can go on vacation themselves.

You will want to plan ahead in order to see some of the best sites.  Reserving your entry time at key attractions can save you loads of time.  You will see those who didn’t make reservations standing in line in the hot sun and you will whisk past them at your pre-reserved time slot.  If you don’t make reservations, you may even miss out on your opportunity to see an important site.  So planning ahead is very helpful.

If you have enough time before you visit, it’s even fun to read a few great books before you travel to Rome.  I love both Angels and Demons by Dan Brown and The Agony and The Ecstasy by Irving Stone.  If you read these before your travels, some of the images will come alive for you and it will further enhance your time in this magical city.  The movies are great, too, if you would prefer! 

What to Include in a 3 or 4 Day Itinerary for Rome

The following sites are the ones that I would include in a 3 or 4-day itinerary for Rome.  Putting the elements of your own personal schedule together depends on when you arrive, how many people you are traveling with, their ages and energy levels, the interests of the group, the timing of your visit, etc, but if your time is planned well, you can look forward to visiting the following main sites.

Vatican City

The Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel and Saint Peter’s Basilica are high on our list of must-see’s in Rome.  It’s high on a lot of lists – during the summer, approximately 20,000 people crane their necks to see the wonders of the Sistine Chapel each day!  You won’t be alone!  There are lots of different ways to visit and your strategy really depends on your time, budget, stamina and level of interest.

We recommend purchasing a ticket beforehand so that you can skip the line.  Also, if you can, go early in the day. One way you can buy your ticket early is to purchase it directly from the Vatican.  Even better, if you want to splurge on one place in Rome to hire a guide, this is the place. Having a fantastic guide who can answer all your questions and lead you to those special places and pieces that interest you most can make this vast site come alive for you and your travel companions!

The last Sunday of the month, it is free to visit the Vatican.  That said, we don’t suggest going when it’s free.  There will be massive crowds, it will be super noisy and once you’re inside, it’s really difficult to get out!

One final suggestion, if it is a nice day and you would like to enjoy a spectacular view of Rome, we recommend going to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica.  This likely won’t be included as part of a guided tour and it will be a separate entrance and ticket, but if you’re up for it, it’s definitely worth it. It is a humbling and inspiring experience to stand behind the host of saints and look down onto Saint Peter’s Square and across toward the city of Rome.

The Colosseum and the Roman Forum

The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in the world and it is an impressive site to see!  It is one of Rome’s most popular attractions so lines can be quite long, especially in high season.  It’s also outside, so it can get hot and crowded.  If you would like to avoid standing in line, there are some tips you can use to help you get inside more quickly. 

You can buy a combination ticket to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill online from the official website. Book your time early as these time slots fill up!  If times are available, you can also buy your ticket when you are in Rome.  If you are buying your ticket there, we recommend getting it at the nearby entrance to Palatine Hill, which rarely has a line (unlike the amphitheater itself). Even if you have your timed ticket in hand before you go, there very well may be a line for the security check.  You will want to arrive at least 15 minutes before your reserved time. Some tour companies offer skip the line tickets with a guide, which can be nice.  You will still have to go through the security check.  Some groups are bigger than others.  Typically, if you pay a bit more, the size of the group will be smaller.  Check on group sizes before you purchase.  You may enjoy having a tour with an actual guide to help really bring these sites to life.

Your ticket is good for 24 hours. The “Full Experience” is only a few euro more and is good for 2 days so you don’t have to see everything all in one day if it doesn’t fit into your schedule, or if you get tired and want to come back the following day.  Don’t miss the Roman Forum. It is incredible to walk through these ruins where citizens and Ceasars stood 2000 years ago.

Trying to see the Vatican and the Colosseum in the same day is really too much.  There is a lot to see, soak in, enjoy and appreciate, and trying to stuff it all into one day would be exhausting.  We recommend separate days for these sites.  If you don’t have enough days, plan to come back so you can really enjoy each one to the fullest.  Your vacation should not be so jam packed that what you remember is how exhausted you were the whole time!  These are unbelievable sites.  They are historical, impactful, and amazing places to see.  We find that taking enough time in each day to absorb and appreciate as much as possible will give you more value at the end of each day.

Borghese Gallery

We love the Borghese Gallery!  This is a private collection assembled by Cardinal Scipione Borghese in the 17th century.  It is located in his Roman garden villa so the setting is quite unique and lovely.  The artwork is exquisite and full of ancient Roman, Renaissance and Baroque pieces by artists including Bernini, Caravaggio, Raphael and Rubens, among others. Visiting here gives you a chance to admire this incredible art collection without the crowds that you will likely experience elsewhere in Rome.  Entry is restricted and timed so you will have the chance to visit with a limited amount of other people in the space. 

Having a ticket in hand long before your visit to Rome is a must if you would like to have the chance to see this collection.  Your pre-planning will be well worth it.  Our daughter’s experience at the age of 14 led her to take art electives in university that I’m sure she wouldn’t have taken had we not visited the Borghese Gallery.  I hope your family and travel companions enjoy it as much as we do.    

Enjoy Walking through the Streets of Rome

Finding the right balance in your itinerary is tricky.  A tactic that helps is to break things up by spending part of your day at museums and other sites and the other part enjoying the streets of Rome.  We love walking tours.  They can be with a guide, but they don’t have to be!  You can create your own walking tour or follow one written by an expert like Rick Steves, who offers several for Rome.  We recommend the following walks to help break up your day of heavy duty sites.

I always visit the Trevi Fountain when I am in Rome.  You’ll know you’re getting close when you hear the crowds, but it’s worth it.  Turn your back to the fountain and throw a coin over your shoulder with your right hand.  This ensures that you will return to Rome.  It has worked for me every time!  From the Trevi Fountain, head toward the Spanish Steps, named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See.  If you like to people watch, this is a great place to do it.  Take a break near the steps and observe the populace as they pass by.  If you would like to do some shopping, or even if you just enjoying looking in the windows of beautiful shops, your walk can continue down the Via del Corso to the Piazza del Popolo, which was once the northern gate of Rome.

If you start at Campo de’ Fiori in the morning, you’ll have a chance to visit the stalls in this famous flower, fruit and vegetable market.  Enjoy the flowers and see what’s in season from the food vendors.  Head toward Piazza Navona and appreciate the Bernini fountains.  If you read Angels and Demons, remember the story line as you admire this artist’s work.  Move on to the Pantheon.  Watch your bags and personal belongings here as this area is known for pickpockets.  Marvel at the Pantheon’s dome and think about what it took to build it between 118 and 125 A.D.  After your walk, be sure to get some gelato!

Gelato

Eat lots of gelato when you are in Rome…..lots and lots of it.  The first time we visited Rome, we enjoyed gelato once the first day, twice the second and on the third day – you guessed it – we had gelato three times!  It was hot and gelato helped us slow down and cool down – and it was delicious.  We started rating the different gelaterias and found several favorites.  Our research continues.  It’s a tough job! For now, let me share just one of our favorites: Giolitti. When you go, be sure to purchase your gelato at the front and get a receipt before going to the back to make your selection.

We came here with our kids when they were 14 and 11 (now they are adults and we are grandparents!).  It was a hot day at the beginning of June.  We purchased our cones and went around the corner to perch on a window sill, lick the delicious cold ice cream and enjoy a reprieve from the heat.  Our daughter was a bit overly cautious about germs at the time.  Her strawberry cone melted too quickly for her to keep up and the ball of gelato literally fell onto the dirty Roman street before us.  It was so delicious, however, that she overcame her concern for dirt or bacteria; she didn’t think twice about scooping it up and finishing her cool treat.  THAT is how good the gelato is in Rome!

Restaurants

There are so many amazing restaurants in Rome, including some hidden gems for the best pasta you’ll ever taste.  Try to avoid the overly touristy ones on some of the main piazzas.  Where you will dine will likely depend on where you happen to be when it is dinner time.  Remember that in Rome, that is around 9:00 pm!  If you want to go to a special restaurant on a particular evening, you will likely want to make a reservation so you are sure to be able to get a table.

If you would like someone else to sort out the puzzle pieces of your Rome itinerary or you’re just not sure what activity to put on each day (Some places may be closed!  Some sites may be crowded later in the day! Some attractions may be too far from one another to see in a day!), we would love to plan this trip for you!  Let Euro Travel Coach save you time and stress and craft a custom itinerary just for you! Check out reviews from some of our happy travelers and see our Europe Trip Planning Services here on our website.  Feel free to reach out via email — I’m always available to talk about travel!!  We would love to plan a custom trip just for you and your travel companions!

Betsy Ball –  Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe.  She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients.   Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

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I first became acquainted with the KÜHL brand when I bought a pair of their Deceptr pants for our hike of the Tour du Mont Blanc. I love those pants, so I was delighted when KÜHL contacted me about reviewing some pants for them. This time I chose the Radikl and I’m very happy I did.

Comfort & Fit

The standout feature is the comfort. KÜHL’s clever use of knit stretch panels makes these pants move with you instead of against you. Unlike many technical pants that advertise stretch but still feel restrictive, the Radikl legitimately wears more like an athletic jogger while maintaining the structured look of a classic hiking or work pant. The articulated knees and gusseted crotch only add to that freedom of movement.

Performance

Breathability is excellent — they keep cool on warm days yet have enough heft to hold up when the temperature dips. I’ve worn them on long hikes and while traveling, and they handle both scenarios equally well. The fabric dries quicker than standard cotton, and the stretch panels allow for serious mobility, whether you’re scrambling over rocks or crouching around camp.

I’ve had these now for several months and worn them on many hikes in all kinds of conditions. I will say on the hottest days they got a little warm but overall, they are extremely comfortable and well built. After several washing they still look new!

Design & Durability

KÜHL nailed the balance between technical function and everyday style. The Radikl doesn’t scream “hiking pant,” which makes them great for wearing straight from the trail to town. Pockets are deep, functional, and well-placed, easily accommodating a phone or multitool without feeling bulky. After plenty of wear and washes, the pants still look sharp, with no fading or fraying — a testament to KÜHL’s build quality.

The drop in cell phone pockets are a standout for me. These are a feature in both the Radikl and the Deceptr and it really makes accessing your phone for pictures during a hike very easy.

One thing I miss from the Deceptr not featured in the Radikl is the hidden, zipper secured, security compartment in right rear pocket. This is a fantastic feature when traveling and I wish it was included in the Radikl.

Verdict

The KÜHL Radikl Pant is a rare piece of gear that truly bridges the gap between outdoor performance and casual style. If you want one pair of pants that can handle backcountry trails, airport terminals, and dinner out with friends, the Radikl is worth every penny. Comfortable, durable, and versatile — it’s no surprise these have earned a permanent spot in my rotation.

Dreaming of a hiking trip in Europe? We can help with that! We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

We have tried so many great bottles since by smaller producers that I think I will write a follow up soon. For now let these whet your your appetite for some of our favorite wines anywhere.

For those not yet familiar with Barolo, it is 1) a village, 2) a small wine region in Piedmont in northwest Italy, and most importantly 3) one of the world’s most sought after wines. The Barolo DOCG (Italy’s highest level of certification) was one of the first four to be granted in Italy.

Barolo Wine

It is made from the Nebbiolo grape, a variety nearly exclusively grown in this region, which can produce very complex, age worthy wines.

Wine has been made here for centuries and there are strong traditions that come with Barolo production. In recent years younger wine makers have experimented with using small French oak barrels, changing maceration (skin contact) time, and producing some very special Cru (important single vineyard wines). Suffice it to say, these experiments have stirred up a bit of controversy between the traditionalists and the new guard. Luckily for us, both camps are making outstanding wines!

This happens to be one of our favorite places to visit in Italy and we’d like to share our Insider’s Short List of Favorite Barolo Wines with you. We have picked grapes in the area during two harvest seasons and we just keep coming back.

We also love the stories associated with wine. We hope you enjoy the reasons why these have become some of our favorites.

You can’t go wrong if you choose any of these wines:

Poderi Aldo Conterno – Bussia, Cicala, Colonnello, Romirasco, Grand Bussia

Marcarini – La Serra, Brunate

Massolino – Serralunga, Margheria, Parafada, Parussi, Vigna Rionda

Bartolo Mascarello

Rivetto – Serralunga, Briccolina, Leon Riserva

Vietti – Rocche di Castiglione, Lazzarito, Brunate, Ravera, Riserva Villero

Sciavenza – Serralunga, Broglio, Cerretta, Prapò

Viberti - Buon Padre, Bricco delle Viole, San Pietro, La Volta, Ravera

Poderi Aldo Conterno

 They say you always remember your first love. For us, it was Poderi Aldo Conterno. We were introduced to the wines by Franco Conterno at a tasting at Jimmy’s, an outstanding Italian grocery store in Dallas. Franco is one of three brothers, sons of Aldo, who now own and run the winery. Several years after that Dallas meeting we had the privilege of being hosted by Franco at a tasting at the winery in the middle of the Bussia Cru near Monforte. They produce an “entry level” Bussia Barolo, three single vineyard labels, Cicala, Colonnello, and Romirasco, and in the best years, a riserva called Grand Bussia. We have enjoyed many bottles and vintages over the years and it’s still one of our favorites. The clay soils of the Bussia produce a wine with aromas of cherry and red berries, tar, licorice, and leather. We love these Barolo wines!

Marcarini

On the first night of our first visit to Barolo we were served a bottle of Marcarini Lasarin during dinner at La Cantinetta in Barolo. The Lasarin can be described as a “baby Barolo” made from Nebbiolo grapes macerated and aged for shorter periods than a DOCG Barolo. Langhe Nebbiolo are fresher tasting and made to be consumed young and made by most of the Barolo producers. Because of their freshness they are a good choice to pair with many foods and are much more economical than their big brothers. Marcarini makes two single cru Barolos. La Serra is lighter and more elegant with nice minerality complimenting red fruits. The Brunate is a bolder expression with darker fruits and stronger tannins. Both are gorgeous! Their cantina and tasting room are both in La Morra and are recommended stops when you visit the area. We recommend stopping in for a tasting in our suggested 4 day Barolo wine tour itinerary.

Massolino

Our first visit to Barolo in 2014 happened to coincide with the release of the great 2010 vintage, one of the best Barolo vintages. What that fortunately meant for us was the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo was sponsoring a release party. For €15 you were given a glass and access to over 100 open bottles of Barolo 2010! We tried many wines over several hours and picked our favorites. Betsy’s was the Massolino from Serralunga. We enjoy the rich, balanced fruits, floral, and baking spice notes of this wine. They also produce four crus which you can taste in their very elegant tasting room in Serralunga.

Bartolo Mascarello

The unassuming door on this winery in the heart of the village of Barolo is only marked by a sign with a hand painted frog. Behind that door lies one of most highly regarded and traditional wineries in all of the Barolo region. Bartolo Mascarello Barolo wines are made by blending all their grapes from various vineyards into a single Barolo bottling each year.  Aging only in large, neutral Slavonian oak barrels, the wines do not have any of the characteristic vanilla flavors of the smaller French barrels favored by some newer wine makers. Making some of his wine even more valuable are the hand painted and designed labels. His daughter Maria Teresa now runs the show with the same traditions as her father. The winery has no website, does no marketing, and it helps to have a local expert call to reserve a tasting for you. It is worth the effort if you can get in!

Rivetto

If you have read any of our blogs about Barolo or Piedmont you know about our favorite wine shop in the area, La Vite Turchese. On one of our first visits to the shop, Stefano introduced us to the wines of Enrico Rivetto. During our first year picking grapes in the area we got to meet the wine maker when he led a tour and tasting at his winery. This is a wine maker who is passionate about his craft! He loves experimenting with different techniques including using clay amphora in the cellar. Most importantly he is committed to biodynamic farming and returning the vineyard back to a more natural state. He has planted many trees around the vineyard, grows herbs among the vines, and has even given up some precious land that previously produced grapes to plant ancient wheat strains to encourage biodiversity in his vineyard. We highly recommend all of his wines which includes a sparkling made from the Nebbiolo grape!

Vietti

Another wine we were introduced to at Jimmy’s was Vietti Barolo. We always have a bottle or two of theirs in our cellar and we were excited to visit the winery in Castiglione Falletto during a trip in 2016. We were greeted by Elena, the wife of Mario Vietti’s grandson. Mario was the patriarch of the family and started making the first Vietti wines in 1919. Elena took us on a tour of the cellar, told us the history of this winery, showed us some of the original artwork for the labels, and finally took us back up to the tasting room.  She is very proud of her family’s history and their wine. We loved hearing her stories and tasting a lot of wine! What was supposed to be a 45-minute tour turned into a nearly three-hour visit! The only reason we left was to make our next tasting, which we had made for what we thought was safely later in the day!

Schiavenza

We have enjoyed some bottles of Schiavenza we bought at Jimmy’s over the years but our first visit to the cantina in Serralunga was a happy coincidence.  We had actually finished our tasting at Rivetto and came into Serralunga for lunch. As we came into town we noticed a nice looking restaurant with a lovely view over the vines. It was after we were seated on the terrace that we realized the restaurant was run by the small family run winery of Schiavenza. The restaurant serves handcrafted, traditional Langhe dishes and features the family’s wines. It is one of our favorite spots in the whole area to eat!

Viberti

Located in the small village of Vergne between La Morra and Novello, Viberti is a family run winery over 100 years old which also runs a traditional restaurant. It is now lead by third generation wine maker Claudio who combines tradition and vision. Tastings are often conducted in the basement cantina and if you plan it right you can enjoy dinner upstairs after the tasting. Their Trattoria del Buon Padre is a lovely, small restaurant that, “ecalls the old hospitality of a cozy tavern, a meeting place, a certainty.” Highly recommended if you are visiting the area!

There are so many more bottles we could share with you. Every time we visit this area we discover a new one! And we haven’t even talked about the Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto, Chinato, and more that you can discover there as well! If you are a red wine lover you owe it to yourself to visit the Barolo wine region. We can help with that! We’d love to share some of our favorite spots in Barolo. Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — we’re always available to talk about travel!!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

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Galway is a bustling Irish city that is rich in history. Its thriving university contributes to the vibrant atmosphere, while the city’s welcoming character and intimate feel add to its appeal. It’s also especially beautiful with cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and a rapid river running through it, that spills out into the Irish Sea. It really is as charming and enticing as it sounds.

If you are reading this article, you likely already know that Ireland is an incredibly special place to visit. Each destination on this island country has its own unique appeal. But I want to share with you how particularly charming Galway is for those who travel to the west coast of Ireland.

Just 2 ½ hours on the motorway from Dublin, Galway delivers the convenience of a city with 80,000 people, with a distinct charm all its own. It offers a great traditional music scene, a beautiful setting, fantastic food, cozy pubs and great places to stay. We have stayed in Galway for several days nearly every time we visited Ireland, and it yields new riches every single time.

These are 10 great reasons we think you will love including Galway on your itinerary when you visit Ireland.

1)    Galway makes a terrific home base for day trips

One of the best aspects of Galway’s location is that you can set up your home base there for several nights, and take amazing day trips in the region. Then you can return to Galway for dinner and a good night’s sleep at the end of your day of touring.

Galway is located right on the coast, in the center of some of the most incredible places to visit on Ireland’s western shore. From Galway, you can travel north to Connemara National Park, Kylemore Abbey, and the Quiet Man Bridge, the setting for the 1950 film “The Quiet Man” starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. On another day, you can go south and east to experience the unique rocky landscape of The Burren and gaze at the beautiful Cliffs of Moher.

If you want to hike or bike or ride along the Wild Atlantic Way, you’ll find Galway on the southern edge of the Bay Coast Region.

Galway is also a great gateway to the Aran Islands. To get there, you can take a passenger ferry year-round from Rossaveel (weather permitting), which is about an hour west of Galway. Cars are not allowed on the ferry, but you’ll be able to enjoy the wild, rugged landscape and easy pace of island life by walking, biking or taking the local bus. Be sure to note the time the ferry returns to the mainland, or choose to spend a night and experience the islands with those who live there. Be sure to make it to Dún Aonghasa on Inis Mor. The views are stunning from this ancient stone fort perched on a cliff 300 feet above the Atlantic Ocean.    

2)  There are Great Places to Stay in Galway, Ireland

Whether you would like to stay in a traditional hotel, Bed & Breakfast, hostel, or AirBnB, you’ll be able to find what you are looking for in Galway. If you want to stay in County Galway but go a little further out from the city, you can even find a beautiful castle where you can rest your head for the night!

I was a hotel restaurant management major in my university days and really do love every kind of accommodations. But when I’m in Ireland, my favorite places to stay are almost always B&Bs. It is here that you will likely receive a warm Irish welcome, loads of local recommendations offered with a fantastic accent, perhaps a dram of Irish whisky, a comfy warm bed, and a full Irish breakfast in the morning. That will likely include fried eggs, rashers (a fattier, better version of Canadian bacon), sausages, grilled tomatoes, baked beans and Irish soda bread toast, among other greasy and delicious items. There are lots of B&Bs to choose from in Galway! 

The accommodations that will be perfect for you depends on your budget, your travelers and the dates when you’ll be in Galway. One of the services we provide at Euro Travel Coach is finding just the right lodging for our clients. Some of our very favorite B&Bs in town include the following: 

Corrib House Tea Rooms & Guest Accommodations right in the heart of Galway City,

St. Jude’s Lodge which is a traditional B&B with a fantastic staff, great location and amazing breakfast, and 

Sea Breeze Lodge in Salthill where you can experience comfort and luxury overlooking gorgeous Galway Bay. t’s a bit further out from the center city, but a wonderful walk, and well worth it.

3)    Galway is a Foodie’s Paradise!

There really is an amazing food scene in Galway. It’s true, you will find a lot of potatoes as you travel throughout Ireland, but the restaurant scene here is on par with the best. Galway offers fantastic restaurants offering a wide array of options for every palate as you meander the cobblestone streets of this charming town. From Michelin-starred restaurants, to slow food options focusing on local provenance, to pub grub, to tapas, the city is full of possibilities.

I highly recommend the seafood. Perched on the edge of the bay, Galway has access to the freshest fish you can find, and today’s restaurants do it justice all over town.

Know that you can spend as little or as much as you like, and dine for a quick bite or enjoy a multi course meal. So there are lots and lots of options, but I want to highlight just a few. 

A number of years ago, Greg and I took students to Ireland on a study abroad trip over spring break. One of our students got sick and getting her the care she needed was a bit stressful. When we reached our hotel in Galway, and we knew she would be OK, we were ready to relax and enjoy a nice meal to celebrate Greg’s birthday. We chose Oscar’s Seafood Bistro and we could not have been more delighted. They made the evening special. We enjoyed the quaint setting, the catch of the day, beautiful scallops and lovely wine. We rarely return to the same restaurant because we like to explore the options, but the next year we came back to Oscar’s for another great seafood meal.

Our very first trip to Ireland was just as using the internet for researching trips was becoming more important. In other words, it was a long time ago, and I got most of my information from guidebooks. I’m not even sure how I ran across a piece that described Moran’s Oyster Cottage as one of their favorite places, but I was absolutely determined to go there. The article I read said their smoked salmon was like velvet in your mouth.

We didn’t have a car on that trip, and it’s not an easy place to get to without your own transportation. We ended up taking a cab, and then calling another cab to take us back into town. Moran’s is about a 25 minute drive southeast Galway, right on the water. It is absolutely worth the drive to get there. We’ve been back multiple times.

This charming spot is an oversized, thatched-roof cottage that sits right on the banks of the Dunkellin River where they source their oysters, every single day. It is a family-run restaurant where the seafood chowder, spectacular oysters, Irish lobster, and of course the smoked salmon, are the stars of the show. I am literally salivating as I write this. I can’t wait to go back.

I want to highlight one more place to dine in Galway. There are just so many choices! The next time we travel there, I really want to eat at Ard Bia at Nimmos. We are always looking for favorites frequented by the locals, and this is one of those places. Ard Bia is unpretentious, while taking advantage of its great location by the River Corrib. Try to get a seat by the window if you can. They highlight the abundance of local produce in Galway, and change the menu daily depending on what is fresh. I can’t wait to try it, maybe for Sunday brunch!

4)    There are Interesting Sights You’ll want to Visit In TOWN

Just wandering around Galway and soaking up the atmosphere is a great way to spend an afternoon. That said, I also love to explore churches and museums, and there are a number of these in Galway. They are especially good places to visit in town if it happens to be a rainy day, which can happen pretty often in Ireland. The following are some of my favorite sights to visit in Galway City. As an added bonus, these are all free! Of course, donations are always accepted and appreciated.

a.    Galway Cathedral 

In a country where you can visit churches that were founded nearly 800 years ago, Galway Cathedral is quite new. Completed in 1965, this stone cathedral has beautiful mosaics instead of stained-glass windows. The architecture is quite modern and includes an intricately decorated dome and spectacular Romanesque arches.

You’ll find Galway Cathedral a bit north of the city center, on the west bank of the River Corrib. It is usually open during the day from 8:30 to 6:30, but do check the times if you want to visit during the holidays.

b.    Galway City Museum

Spending time in the Galway City Museum offers a great introduction to the area’s history. The museum is centrally located, just behind the Spanish Arch (which we’ll talk more about later). Many of the exhibits are interactive and the focus is on the history of Galway from prehistoric times to the 20th century. It covers topics from archaeology to oceanography, with Galway as the backdrop. You can even see a full-scale Galway hooker up close. No, this is not what you think – an Irish hooker sailboat is a traditional fishing boat used in Galway Bay. They are quite beautiful and this is a chance to see one up close. 

c.     Saint Nicholas’ Collegiate Church 

If you enjoy visiting historic churches, you will love Saint Nicholas’ Collegiate Church. This beautiful structure is the largest medieval parish church in all of Ireland that has been in continuous use since its completion in the early 14th century. It is said that Christopher Columbus prayed here when he visited Galway in 1477. Cromwell’s troops also used the church as a stable for their horses in 1652 after the siege of Galway. You can blame this use of the building for the fact that many of the carved figures in the church no longer have heads or hands. Nevertheless, the interior is well-preserved and it is a great place to contemplate the lives that have been nurtured here over the centuries.

Saint Nicholas’ Collegiate Church is on the east bank of the River Corrib. If you go on a Saturday or Sunday, (plus Fridays in July and August) you can also stop by the Galway Market, which has operated here for centuries. The market sets up right outside the church and you can find everything from oysters to art.     

5)    You Can Enjoy a Stroll through Medieval Galway with its Spanish Arch      

I never get tired of wandering through Galway’s Latin Quarter, along the cobblestone streets in the old center of the city. As you are strolling, I highly recommend ducking into Murphy’s Ice Cream.  Murphy’s is made in Dingle with milk from cows from County Kerry. If you include Dingle in your itinerary, then you are probably already familiar with Murphy’s. If not, this is your chance to taste some of the best ice cream in the world. Murphy’s is located in Dingle, Galway, Killarney and Dublin, so I suggest you duck into Murphy’s in each of these cities (if they are on your itinerary) as you tour around Ireland.

Enjoy your ice cream as you stroll from the Latin Quarter to the Spanish Arch. You’ll pass many of Galway’s favorite bars, pubs, cafés, art galleries, restaurants and shops. If you are looking for classic Irish arts and crafts, you’ll be able to find them here. You’ll also enjoy the buskers and other entertainers along the way. 

Close to the Galway City Museum, you’ll see the arches that still survive from the Ceann an Bhalla, or Front Wall. Really two arches, this is known as the Spanish Arch. It is believed to be part of the defensive walls of the city. The Spanish Arch was built in the 16th-century to provide protection for the ships that came in with products from Spain.

6)    People Watching in Eyre Square is the Best

 Eyre Square is a great place to watch the people of Galway, both locals and visitors alike. This area was once the town green in front of the old gates of the city, and was used for traditional markets. It was re-landscaped about 20 years ago and is now Galway’s main public space.

Located just up from the Latin Quarter, there are interesting works of art, a bust of John F. Kennedy (Ireland was his ancestral homeland and he visited in 1963), and flags bearing the family colors of the 14 Tribes of Galway. These were the families that controlled trade and politics in Galway from the 13th to the 19th centuries, and the reason Galway is often referred to as the “City of Tribes.”

My very favorite way to enjoy this lively town square is to grab a fish & chips from McDonagh’s, find a park bench around the square, and sit and enjoy my greasy goodness while people watching. It’s a great way to spend a casual outdoor lunch hour while soaking in some of Galway’s great atmosphere and character.

7)    It’s Only a Short Walk to Salthill for Beaches and a Diving Platform

It is a spectacular 2-kilometer walk from the edge of Galway to Salthill.  Along this promenade by the sea, you’ll enjoy the picturesque coastline of Galway Bay, with amazing views toward the Aran Islands.

If you are there in the summer months, you might want to dive off the Blackrock Diving Tower. On one of our study abroad trips to Ireland, my students were desperate to jump off this diving platform as soon as they heard about it. But it was March, and once they got there, they changed their minds and decided to return another time, when the water would be warmer. But it’s fun to see this diving tower where people enjoy plunging into the crisp waters of Galway Bay. It’s an iconic structure, and one that you won’t want to miss when you are in Salthill.

8)    You’ll Find Great Craic in Galway’s Pubs

Craic is an Irish term for news, fun, lively conversation, gossip and entertainment. When you are looking for good craic, you’ll be sure to find some in Galway’s pubs. Galway has an incredible pub scene, with amazing live music. You would be remiss if you did not spend your evenings in Galway enjoying some traditional Irish music sessions. You’ll enjoy the craic, the Guinness and the music. 

We recommend walking through the city and listening and finding your own preferred pubs, but you won’t go wrong with Tig Coili, The Crane Bar, and The Roisin Dubh (Black Rose in Gaelic), known for its live music scene. You’ll have fun exploring and discovering your own favorites, but these are some of ours.

9)    It’s a Short Drive to Dunguaire Castle

On our first trip to Ireland back in the 90’s, I remember being surprised by how many castles there are all over this island country. One of our traveling companions said “You can’t swing a dead cat without hitting a castle around here.” I’m not sure why that is a phrase, but it has always stuck with me as we travel around Ireland.

Dunguaire Castle is one of the most picturesque castles in all of Ireland, and it is only a half hour drive from Galway, on the south side of the bay. This 16th-century tower house is surrounded on 3 sides by water, and is everything you think of when you imagine an Irish castle. There is a 23-meter tower that is circled by a stone wall that dates back to 1520. It was restored in the 1920’s by Oliver St. John Gogarty, who hosted some of Ireland’s literary greats including W.B. Yeats and George Bernard Shaw. I have to say that it is a bit touristy, but also kind of fun to attend a “Dunguaire Castle Banquet” in the summertime. This is a chance to dine on medieval-style fare and be entertained by performers dressed in period costume who may share some of the poetry of these legendary authors.

10) Galway has a Terrific Christmas Market

If you happen to be in Ireland as the Christmas holidays approach, you won’t want to miss the Galway Continental Christmas Market. Christmas Markets in Europe are so much fun and Galway’s is one of the best in the country. In the US, we mark the Christmas holiday as beginning after Thanksgiving, but Europeans don’t wait to start celebrating. Christmas markets begin mid-November and carry on until just before Christmas.

You can expect a wide variety of entertainment, local crafts, artisan food products, the German Bier Keller, Santa’s Grotto and more. This is pure family fun and you won’t want to miss it if you are in Ireland at this special time of year. 

Bonus: Galway is home to the Claddagh Ring

You may be familiar with the Claddagh Ring, a traditional Irish ring with great meaning to those who give it, and those who wear it. The ring shows two hands holding a heart that wears a crown. The hands on the ring represent friendship, the heart represents love, and the crown represents loyalty. The design of the ring, and the story behind it, originates from the Irish fishing village of Claddagh (which means “shore”), in Galway. It became particularly popular in the 1800s when Queen Victoria started wearing one. The ring also symbolizes pride in one’s Irish heritage.

The original maker of the Claddagh ring is Dillon of Galway. Now known as Thomas Dillon’s, they are the oldest jeweler in Ireland. They have been making the Claddagh ring since 1750 and even hold a Royal Patent. You can visit them when you are in Galway and learn even more! If you own a Claddagh ring made by these jewelers, you own an original. 

Dreaming of travel to Ireland, and/or other places in Europe? We can help with that! We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

 Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A&M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries (including Ireland!) and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

Plan a trip to the Mosel Valley

When we spent 4 nights in Bernkastel-Kues, Germany in the Middle-Mosel, I had no idea how much I would love it.

The Mosel River is a tributary of the well-known and highly visited Rhine River. It winds its way through France, Luxembourg and Germany cutting a deep valley through the slate soils on either side of the river.

Noteworthy castles and ruins top the incredibly steep hills high above the Mosel, which makes the region an even more romantic and memorable destination. Combine the splendor of the landscape with picturesque wine villages, unbelievably stunning vineyards, and traditional taverns that offer exquisite Rieslings and hearty German food, and you have the makings of a wonderful, relaxing holiday.

When we came to visit , we had just finished our first Small Group Tour of Piedmont. We had such a great time leading our tour, but now we were on our own making decisions moment-to-moment, rather than a year in advance like we do for our tours.

It was the off season so we didn’t feel we needed detailed plans for our time in the Mosel. Pace is important when you travel, and for these few days, we wanted to take it pretty easy in this beyond the obvious German destination.

We rented a car in Cologne and drove to our accommodations in Bernkastel-Kues. I rented a little apartment on the opposite side of the river from Bernkastel. It was about a 15-minute walk into the insanely charming fairy tale village, filled with gorgeous half-timbered historic buildings and wine shops selling beautiful Rieslings.

We booked our stay at Ferienwohnung Röschen on the Booking.com link on our very own site. The rate was $70 a night, which included the use of very nice bicycles. It couldn’t have been a better place for us to unwind!

Why Would You Want to Visit the Mosel Valley?

There are a number of reasons why we have been trying to get to the Mosel ever since we started traveling full time in Europe.

We have wanted to visit the Mosel Valley ever since we were preparing for our Wine and Spirits Education Trust Certification test in 2015. In our intensive 4 day tasting training at the Napa Valley Wine Academy, we had an instructor who was extremely partial to highly acidic wines. It was there that we first tasted beautiful Rieslings from Germany’s Mosel Valley and discovered one of our favorite expressions of this important grape.

In past years, we visited the Alsace region of France, another important area in the production of Riesling. We were anxious to compare what we had tasted there with the Mosel wines. In general the German wines have a little more residual sugar but the acid levels are so high they are well balanced and never cloying. Even the sweetest examples we tried were bright and fresh tasting and never reminded us of “Blue Nun,” the wine so popular in the 70s and 80s which gives this grape a bad name. If you haven’t tried Riesling lately, do yourself a favor and try an Alsace or Mosel Riesling with your next dinner. It pairs exceptionally well with spicy foods but is an incredibly versatile food wine.

In addition, Chelsea and her husband Sam visited the Mosel Valley several years ago and fell in love with the area. They stayed in Cochem and traveled the 45 minutes to Bernkastel for wine tastings. We have learned that if they love a place, we are going to love it too.

The reasons to visit the Mosel include tasting wine, visiting castles, hiking, biking, and enjoying truly spectacular landscapes. You can learn a little history too if want! We were hooked.

Making Plans for Visiting the Mosel Valley

It was really lovely to be so relaxed while we were in this area. We expected to drive from quaint village to lovely town, experiencing what each one had to offer, and moving on to the next one. Instead, our car never moved until the morning we checked out of our accommodations.

We got around by bicycle and by foot. It was so great! There was plenty to do right there in the Middle Mosel. We did not find the need to go beyond where we were. There was plenty to do right there. We do, however, want to return, and continue to explore. There is a lot more to see!

Our plans really consisted of renting the car and making a reservation for a place to stay. We also did reach out to some wineries so that we would be able to visit some special places. Beyond that, we took each day as it came along, talked to the outstanding representatives in the tourist information office and to locals at the wineries, and made plans on the fly. It was great! You can certainly make more concrete plans if you want, but because we were visiting in the off season, making decisions at the last minute was much easier.

When we create custom itineraries to Europe for our clients, we sometimes book activities for each day of the trip. And sometimes we leave their itinerary open for several days with recommendations based on their particular interests. It all depends on the client, who they are traveling with, what they are most excited about, and the pace they want to enjoy while they explore.

Being Immersed in German Culture

When we were in Berlin and Cologne, most people spoke English wherever we went. In the Mosel Valley, that wasn’t always the case, and that is part of its charm.

On our first night in the Mosel, we walked all over the darling town of Bernkastel and ended up eating at a restaurant called Weinstube Am Doctorberg. It had 3 tables. They were all full. Everyone seemed to be a local. We sat at the same table with a man who was eating schnitzel. It looked really good so we followed his lead and ordered some schnitzel. We also got some bratwurst and 2 glasses of wine. It was all delicious! My schnitzel was topped with a flavorful, creamy mushroom sauce, and it was fantastic.

The experience was all very funny, actually. We are pretty good conversing in French or Italian, but we do not have many German language skills, and the husband and wife team running the restaurant did not speak English. The man eating schnitzel spoke a little English and helped us out a bit. It was all great, and part of the experience.

To make it even better, the restaurant only accepted cash and we were out! So Greg ran to the ATM to get some money to pay. It was fun and funny. They were very nice and very patient with us. It was a cozy little spot! We loved it.

That is all to say, don’t expect people to cater to tourists here. They do, to a degree, and in high season, I expect they cater even more to foreigners. But when we were there, we were left to enjoy fully the puzzle of communicating without a common language. It actually works just fine, makes for great stories, and encourages us to laugh at ourselves. We never went hungry and we always reached our destination. It was great.

Wine, Dine and Bike along the Mosel River

It was so much fun getting to all our wine tastings by bike or by foot! We visited 3 different wineries. We set up appointments with each one before we visited. 

We absolutely loved our tasting with the historic and family-owned Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm. Their wine is beautiful in every respect. Our host, Mihailo, showed us marvelous hospitality while explaining the wines and letting us taste a wide variety of vintages and single vineyards. He was knowledgeable and friendly, and we shared our tasting with guests from Paris who were equally engaging.

This was our first tasting in the Mosel and I wish it had been our last. We learned a lot, but it would have been better to have arrived with more understanding of the region under our belt. Nevertheless, it was wonderful and the wines were truly amazing. 

After our tasting at J.J. Prüm, we crossed the river and rode our bikes to Selbach-Oster. We had contacted them before our arrival too, but they said that any time would be good – if the door wasn’t open, just ring the bell.

We were greeted warmly, while being told the family was “on break” – which I think really meant that we had interrupted their lunch, but they didn’t seem to mind. Our host, Barbara, is one of the owners of this family run winery, and she was pleased to share Selbach’s beautiful wines with us.

Selbach has a new tasting room with a glorious view. They can accommodate more guests, even though there were only 2 others in the tasting room while we were there. Their attention to quality is evident in each bottle. Barbara explained more about the region and its idiosyncrasies, the slate soil and the prime vineyards.

Barbara gave us some restaurant recommendations and we went to one of them that night for dinner. Graacher Tor turned out to be great! We had a half carafe of Riesling with our dinner that set us back €8.60. It is so nice to be able to enjoy wine with dinner without breaking the bank.

Greg had chanterelle cream soup and I had a delicious fish soup/bouillabaisse. Then we shared a kind of sausage lasagna that was fantastic – layers of thin sausage with sauerkraut and a sauce with cheese – it tasted a bit like a Reuben without the bread. It was a delicious meal and a great recommendation!

The following day we walked through the vines to visit Dr. Loosen. This is a wine that is reasonably easy to find in the States and Canada and has a great reputation, for good reason. Our tasting was supposed to be 90 minutes long, but ended up being nearly 2 ½ hours!

The other guests were from the Netherlands, Michigan and California. We learned more about the soil structure, the history of the region and Dr. Loosen’s importance to the industry in this area. Visiting here was a great way to round out our tastings.

We ate at a cute little restaurant that night called Café Thiesen. Greg had paprika schnitzel with potatoes and I had pork (like a pork chop without the bone) with mushrooms, onions and bacon, with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut mixed together. We also each had a nice green salad and ½ liter of dry Riesling. The bill was €36. It was such a nice dinner!

Hiking to Castles and between Villages in the Mosel Valley

We enjoyed 2 fantastic hikes while we were in this region. We logged a lot of steps while we were there, which helped to burn off the sausage and potatoes that were plentiful at nearly every meal.

As mentioned, there are a lot of spectacular castles in the Mosel Valley. We will have to return to visit more of them, but we did enjoy hiking up to Burg Landshut. This castle high above Bernkastel has been converted into a nice restaurant with outstanding views of the valley below.

We didn’t make the best choice for a route, but we got there. We went through the tunnel that put us on the other side of the mountain – and then we walked up the trails. We were a bit lost for a bit, but we figured it out. We got to see a nice waterfall and walk through some beautiful woods on our way.

The view from the castle was spectacular – the vineyards all along the river valley were yellow and gorgeous. I can’t imagine how hard it would be to harvest grapes from these steep slopes.

We ate a nice little picnic at the top, enjoying the view. Then we climbed the tower. There was a group of men at the top who were very well prepared with nice wine glasses and a bottle of Riesling to enjoy while admiring the view. We walked around the castle some more and looked inside the windows of the restaurant, which was closed for lunch at this time of year. It was all pretty amazing.

On the way down the mountain we visited the St. Anna Kapelle, which is from the late 1800s. The mosaic is beautiful. The chapel is the 14th station of the cross. We saw each station as we hiked down the mountain.

On a different day, we hiked from Bernkastel to Traben-Trarbach. We walked up through the vines and then through the forest and down the other side of the mountain. It was a steep descent into the valley where these two cities lie across from one another.

We went across the bridge to Traben and sat beside the river to enjoy a nice lunch. We had picked up a sandwich and a kind of strudel at a bakery in Bernkastel as we went through town. We enjoyed these with an apple, water and Riesling we brought with us. We had already enjoyed a really great ham and cheese croissant at the summit of our hike.

We wandered around the town a bit and went to the Tourist Information Office (TI) to ask about cellar tours. We were told they are by appointment only, with a guide, and the next one would be on November 8. As this was Halloween, we’ll have to return in order to do that sometime!

We hiked back over the mountain and took a different route to return to Bernkastel, going to Maria Zill lookout. It was absolutely beautiful, even though it was a bit hazy. It was really a wonderful day and a great hike!

Every evening we walked into Bernkastel for dinner and we passed the river boats that cruise the Mosel River. On 2 evenings we saw the Viking River Cruise longships docked at Bernkastel. We thought about taking a Mosel River cruise when we booked our cruise to Eastern Europe. It would also have been a great way to visit this remarkable region, as seeing the steep vineyards from the middle of the river would be a remarkable sight!

We highly recommend traveling to the Mosel Valley. It is such a beautiful area and it has so much to offer. We thoroughly enjoyed a relaxing 4 days in the off season, making decisions each day based on how we felt, what we wanted to do, and the advice we received from the locals.

 Would you like to plan a trip to the beautiful Mosel Valley or another European destination? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

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Kilkenny is a great stopping point as you drive from Dublin to other parts of the country. You can spend as much or as little time there as you want. No matter how long you decide to stay, you will be sure to be delighted by its charm, history, architecture and warm Irish hospitality.

The city is only an hour and a half from Dublin, so it’s the perfect place to stop and have lunch, explore, and then continue on to further parts of the Irish countryside. If you decide to stay longer, you’ll be glad you did!  If you stay for the whole day and overnight, you can really see a lot of what this town has to offer. If you don’t have that much time, stay for lunch and stroll the Medieval Mile, and plan to return another time. You will love this enchanting Irish town and all it has to offer.

Things to Do in Kilkenny, Ireland 

Explore Kilkenny Castle and its beautiful grounds

Kilkenny Castle is everything you want in an Irish castle. It’s beautiful, well-kept and has gorgeous grounds for you to explore at your leisure. The River Nore runs right through the center of town and the view of Kilkenny Castle from the bridge over this river is really quite spectacular.

Kilkenny Castle was a symbol of Norman occupation in Ireland. It was built in 1195 to control an important point on the river where it was possible to cross. With its four corner towers and enormous ditch, it would have been an important part of the town’s defense.

It doesn’t cost anything at all to walk around the beautiful, extensive grounds. You can also meander around the old stables, which have been turned into craft shops and art galleries. It’s fun to browse and admire the artisan pottery and textiles.

There is a fee if you would like to tour the inside of the castle. Tours are usually self-guided, and it takes about an hour to see everything. There are two wings that have been restored and remodeled to show what it would have looked like in Victorian times in the 1800s.

Take a Tour of the Smithwick’s Brewery

On that first trip to Ireland, we were also introduced to Smithwick’s beer, and have been hooked ever since. Of course, we love Guinness, but if you feel like having something other than a stout, “Smitticks” is a great choice. Be sure not to pronounce the “w” when you order. If you pronounce it the way it’s spelled, you’re likely to be kindly corrected. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it is a good way to strike up a conversation, which is easy to do all over Ireland!

The Smithwick’s Experience is about a 5-minute walk down the street from Kilkenny Castle, and is housed in a Franciscan Abbey where monks brewed ale beginning in the 1300s. John Smithwick founded Smithwick’s Brewery in 1710, and the ale was a part of Kilkenny life for 300 years. The brewery was bought by Guinness in 1965 and was Ireland’s oldest operating brewery when it closed in 2013.

Now it is a great place to visit when you are in town. You can learn a little bit about the beer, the town and the people of Kilkenny during your visit, which includes learning how brewers milled the malt and stirred the mash. You’ll also have a chance to smell the hops which have a fantastic aroma. The tour lasts about an hour and a pint is included in the price of admission. Sláinte!

Visit the Medieval Mile Museum

Meandering along the Medieval Mile is a wonderful, casual walk through time. The Medieval Mile stretches through the very center of Kilkenny between the Anglo-Norman Castle and St. Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower at the other end of town. You will encounter narrow streets and laneways, as well as historical buildings and landmarks along the way. About half way along the route, you will encounter The Medieval Mile Museum on the site of St. Mary’s 13th-century church and graveyard.

The museum really does provide an international standard attraction for anyone visiting Kilkenny. They have completely renovated the church and included an enormous treasure trove of artifacts that tell the story of Kilkenny and its history as the medieval capital of Ireland. For a fee, you will be guided through the museum and have a chance to learn more about the work and lives of Ireland and its people across more than 800 years of history.

Stop for a Pint at Kytelers Inn 

We absolutely love Kyteler’s Inn. Established in 1324, this place has been welcoming visitors for seven centuries. Imagine the stories that have been shared inside these walls, including those about its first owner, a woman accused of witchcraft! This pub is filled with atmosphere, history and charm. Each nook and cranny is worth exploring and a trip to the bathroom here can yield all kinds of fun and interesting treasures.

We ate here with our friends the very first time we visited Kilkenny, again with students when we led study abroad trips in Ireland, and when it was just the two of us. This place has amazing character, serves good pub grub and is a great place for a pint! The last time we were at Kytelers Inn, we had bangers and mash, tomato soup and a Smithwick’s. It was just what we were looking for at that moment. Lunch here is a quintessential Irish experience.

Discover the Cathedral Church of St. Canice and its Neighboring Round Tower

At the far end of the Medieval Mile, you will find St. Canice Cathedral. Built in the 1200s, it is an absolutely stunning church, and well worth a visit if you have the time. The ceiling is truly remarkable and be sure to take notice of the baptismal font. It is original. Christians have worshipped on this site ever since the 6th century.

I love visiting places where people have gathered to pray, baptize, marry, bury, encourage, inform, and care for each other for hundreds of years. It makes me feel connected to those who came before me. What can we learn from their journey?

The church now belongs to the Church of Ireland and has been carefully preserved in its original Early Gothic style.

If you’d like a great view of Kilkenny and the surrounding beautiful countryside, you can also climb St. Canice’s Celtic Christian Round Tower, adjacent to the church. Constructed in the 9th century, it was built to protect both people and treasures. It was once a watchtower and a refuge. It is the oldest standing structure in Kilkenny, and on a nice clear day (not guaranteed in Ireland), the view from the top is totally worth the climb.

Wander the Streets of Kilkenny

If you are not in a hurry, this is a place where you can meander for hours and just explore with no plan and very little agenda. If you have time, I recommend just wandering the streets of Kilkenny and discovering some of its nooks and crannies at your leisure. If you’d like a specific place to find as you wander, ask someone in the tourist office, or a local on the street, where to find Butterslip Lane. This little part of town is quaint and charming and looks like it came right out of a scene from a Harry Potter book.

If you happen to be in town on a Sunday evening, check out the Left Bank, just down the street from the castle. This place used to be a bank, but it has been converted into a terrific bar with live jazz on Sunday nights. On some evenings, local dance instructors bring their students here to dance! You can watch or join in, but either way, you’ll have a great night out in a truly extraordinary Irish village.

It is easy to spend a wonderful day in the charming village of Kilkenny. There’s friendly people, lots of history and numerous places to explore. It’s a terrific jumping off place for the rest of your time in Ireland.

Dreaming of travel to Ireland or some other European destination? We can help with that! We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Betsy Ball – Betsy is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group trips to Europe. She is a passionate and culturally curious traveler who thoroughly enjoys sharing her love for exploring Europe with ETC clients. Prior to founding ETC, Betsy taught International Business at Tarleton State University in Texas (part of the A & M System) where she led study abroad trips to multiple European countries and other worldwide destinations. She retired from teaching in 2017 and since then, Betsy and her husband, Co-founder and Partner, Greg, have been traveling through Europe multiple times per year for as many as 9 months at a time. She has a degree in hotel, restaurant management from Michigan State University and an MBA from Southern Methodist University in Dallas. She also holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust.

I absolutely love this place, and everything about it. The wine was our first draw but the beautiful countryside, the food, and the people just keep me coming back.

Much like the wines in my Comparing Brunello and Vino Nobile Wines in Tuscany post, Barolo and Barbaresco are produced with the same grape, situated only a few kilometers away from each other, and are both DOCG wines, but they are distinctively different.

What’s the Difference between Barolo and Barbaresco?

First, let’s talk about the grape, Nebbiolo. Named for the fog, nebbia in Italian, that often forms in the valleys in the morning, it is a highly acidic and tannic grape making it ideal for highly structured, long aging wines.

For such high levels of tannin, the skin of these grapes is relatively thin and wine is usually much paler than you might expect from a wine with this much body. The color tends toward a pale garnet but even with wines aged just a few years there is often a bit of brown detected at the rim.

Some producers are even using Nebbiolo to produce a sparkling “blanc de noirs.” It is one of the world’s great grapes and this area of Piedmont is its home.

Barolo

Of the two, Barolo is considered to be the fullest, and is often referred to as the King of Wines. To be clear, Barolo is the name of a wine. It is also the name of the only region where this wine can be produced, and is also a village in that region. We visited a few of the Barolo regions on our wine tasting tour!

The biggest, boldest wines here are produced in the communes of Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto. Here the soils are poor clay and sandstone, the beige tinged Helvetian soil. The wines are fully structured and built to last. Aromas of dark cherries, ripe strawberries, and roses are often detected with anise, baking spices, tar, and truffles, often described as secondary flavors. 

In La Morra and Barolo (the village) the Tortonian soil has a bit of a blue shade and is more calcareous. This produces a wine that is a little more fruity and aromatic. The red fruits seem brighter and the style is more elegant. But make no mistake, these are still full-bodied wines with great aging potential. Some of the most classic producers are situated around these villages.

All Barolo wines must be aged for a minimum of 3 years, with at least 18 months in barrels. A Riserva must be aged a total of five years before release.

Traditionally, it was advisable for Barolo to age at least ten years, sometimes much longer, before the astringent tannins and high acidity had softened to a point where they should be consumed. But more modern wine making techniques have made many of these wines more approachable upon release. Still, the best wines will age gracefully for ten, twenty, thirty years or even longer. An aged Barolo with tertiary flavors of leather, licorice, and tobacco is a special treat indeed.

Barbaresco

Situated about 20 kilometers northeast of Barolo is Barbaresco, where the unique climate and soils combine to produce a more elegant expression of the Nebbiolo grape. Like Barolo, Barbaresco is a village, a region, and a wine. In between the two villages lies the city of Alba, home to the International Truffle Fair.

Although lower in elevation and technically warmer than Barolo, the best vineyards here are influenced by breezes coming off the Tanaro River which winds its way through the region. The soil here is also more fertile and rich in limestone and contains more sand. The four communes allowed to produce this wine are Neive, Treiso, San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, and Barbaresco itself. 

Barbaresco wines have the common rose and anise notes of the Nebbiolo grape but the fruits are brighter and strawberry and raspberry are commonly used as descriptors.

Barbaresco wines must be aged for a minimum of 26 months with 9 of that in wood. Riserva age for at least 50 months with a minimum of 24 months in barrels.

These wines are even more approachable young, but they are still very complex, age worthy wines. The elegance and femininity found in these bottles earn them the title of the Queen of Wines and are easier to pair with food.

What’s the difference between Barolo and Nebbiolo Wines?

Barolo and Barbaresco are not your only choices for getting to know the Nebbiolo grape. Wine labeled as Nebbiolo d’Alba or Langhe Nebbiolo are wines that can be sourced anywhere in the region and do not have the long aging requirements of the DOCG’s. They are much more affordable and don’t require aging to enjoy them at their full potential.

Roero Nebbiolo

Across the Tanaro from Barbaresco is the Roero region. Famous for their white grape Arneis, the sandy soils here produce a wonderful Roero Nebbiolo which is also a DOCG.  These wines are as intense and structured as Barolo, while also having Barbaresco’s sweet fruit. They offer some of the best value in the area.

When you visit the area there are so many small producers to try it never gets old. Here are a few of our favorites that are relatively easy to find in the US. You can see my post An Insider’s Short List of Favorite Barolo Wines for some of our favorites.

Here are a few Barolo we have discovered recently.

Viberti Giovani - We visited this winery on our last Small Group Tour of Piedmont and fell in love with the wine, the people, and the cantina. It is a traditional family run winery just outside of La Morra. Its flagship Barolo “IL Buon Padre” is also the name of their traditional restaurant above the cantina. In addition, they recently opened a more contemporary restaurant in Barolo called Locanda La Gemella

Elio Altare - On a visit to the area, we stopped into our favorite wine shop, La Vite Turchese, and asked Stefano to pick out a special bottle of wine for us. We spent the next few hours savoring this extraordinary wine as it slowly evolved in our glasses. This was one of the best bottles we’d had in a long time. The next day at an Easter Dinner with our friends at La Giolitta, we met the winemaker!

Virna - On a trip to Barolo, we were invited to a lovely dinner hosted by Virna Borgogno. A special evening with just a few friends, she shared some wine from a trip to Portugal and of course some of her wine as well. She and her sister Ivana now run the winery passed down to them from their father Lodovico.

Some of our favorite Barbarescos include:

Sori’ Paitin - A very traditional producer who creates beautifully elegant wines. They are also relatively easy to find in the US.

Bruno Rocca - We bought a case of their 1990 Rabaja several years ago and enjoyed it immensely. Later we visited the beautiful cantina just outside of Barbaresco and it is still one of our favorites.

Produttori del Barbaresco - Originally founded in 1958, this is now a collective of 51 growers who combine their resources to produce many outstanding wines including several single vineyard labels.

For a more economical introduction to the Nebbiolo grape try one of these:

Produttori Langhe Nebbiolo - In addition to several Barbaresco wines, the Produttori makes a marvelous Langhe Nebbiolo. This was our first exposure to the Nebbiolo grape purchased at Jimmy’s Food Store in Dallas where we met so many great wine makers at their wine tasting dinners over the years.

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo delle Langhe - One of our most memorable tastings we ever went to was at Vietti in Castiglione Falletto. We met with Elena, wife of 4th generation owner Luca. What was supposed to be about a 45 minute tour turned into more than two hours which we only cut short because we had another appointment we had to make. We later met Luca back at Jimmy’s!

Paolo Scavino - A quality family producer whose wines are widely available in the US. Their focus is on the three primary red grapes of the region, Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto.

Also check out our 3-day Tuscan Wine Itinerary! Dreaming of travel to Italy or some other European destination? We can help with that! We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel!

Greg Ball – Greg is co-founder and partner of Euro Travel Coach (ETC), which crafts custom European vacations for independent travelers and leads small group tours to Europe. In his previous life he taught Woodwinds and Jazz at the university level for 30 years. As a professor he took his bands to England, Ireland, Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, and England. Since “retiring” in 2017, he and his wife/ETC co-founder, Betsy, have been traveling through Europe for up to nine months of the year. Together they have visited over 40 countries and counting! He loves cooking, hiking, listening to and playing music, and wine. Greg holds a Level 3 certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust.

How to Make Sticky Toffee Pudding

Traditionally, this decadent dessert was steamed, but my favorite recipe for it is baked, which makes it a little more accessible to the average home cook. The base recipe is similar to a typical yellow cake with a few key additions – molasses (known in the UK as black treacle) and dates that have been soaked in boiling water and then mashed with a fork. If you’re not a big date fan, don’t let them scare you off from making Sticky Toffee Pudding, they melt right into the cake and you can’t even tell that they are there (don’t even think about skipping them, they make the cake super moist). While the cake is baking, you make a super simple, booze spiked caramel sauce. Once the cake comes out of the oven, pour half the sauce on the cake and save the rest for serving. Sticky toffee pudding is best served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of whipped cream.  

Sticky Toffee Pudding Makes every occasion better!

Although I think of this as a cold weather recipe, I can’t think of a more comforting, delicious, dessert (pud!) to make and enjoy any time of year (especially with some ice cream in the summer). If you’re feeling a little ho hum, or just want to get together with friends and family, perhaps this will give you a little taste of traveling to the UK without leaving your kitchen. Of course, you may not want to share because it’s so darn tasty!

What to Drink with Sticky Toffee Pudding

Because it’s quite sweet, sticky toffee pudding pairs with most wine and beer about as well as toothpaste pairs with orange juice. If I were you, I’d finish your drink before indulging in the pudding…and then maybe after you’re finished, have a wee dram of a single malt whisky from Scotland. Or try our Isolation Bourbon Cocktail alongside your pud.

Sticky Toffee Pudding Recipe

For the Cake

6 oz pitted dates, roughly chopped
2/3 cup boiling water
6 tbsp butter
¾ cup light brown sugar 
2 large eggs at room temperature
2 tbsp molasses
1 ¼ cups flour
1 ½ tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/3 cup whole milk

For the Toffee Sauce

½ cup butter (1 stick) 
1 cup brown sugar
1 ¼ cup heavy cream
1 ½ tsp salt
1 tbsp molasses
Glug of bourbon, scotch, dark rum (really, any brown liquor you like)

1. Preheat oven to 325° F. Generously butter an 8x8 baking dish.

2. Put dates and boiling water in a bowl and set aside. 

3. Meanwhile, cream six tablespoons butter and ¾ cup brown sugar until light and fluffy. Then beat in eggs one at a time, followed by the molasses.

4. In a separate bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

5. Fold in the 1/3 of the flour mixture into the butter mixture, then 1/3 of the milk. Repeat until all the flour and milk are gone. 

6. Use a fork to mash the soaked dates into a pulp and stir in vanilla. Add the dates with their liquid to the batter and stir to combine.

7. Bake in prepared dish for 50 minutes, or until the cake has risen and the center is firm to the touch.  

8. While the cake is baking, make the toffee sauce. Melt ½ cup butter in a medium heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat. Stir in brown 1 cup brown sugar, 1 ½ tsp salt, and half of the cream. Once the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is bubbling, stir in the molasses and continue cooking until the mixture has a rich golden color and smells like caramel (3-4 minutes). Take the pan off the heat and stir in a glug of your liquor of choice and the rest of the cream. Keep warm. 

9. Once the cake has finished baking, remove from oven and cool for 15 minutes or so. Skewer the cake all over with a toothpick, then pour half of the toffee sauce over top of the cake. Allow it to sit for a few minutes to absorb the sauce. Serve while still warm with the remaining sauce (I like to put it in a little pitcher on the side so that people can add as much or as little as they’d like) and vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.  

Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family to help you dream about travel to Europe, and create amazing trip plans when it’s safe to travel. We are here for your custom trip planning to Italy, France, Ireland, the UK and all of Europe. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips to European destinations. We also book European cruises! Feel free to reach out via email — We’re always available to talk about travel! 

Chelsea is one third of the Euro Travel Coach team (and is the daughter of the other two thirds of the team, Greg and Betsy). She has a passion for food and wine and has a background in hospitality. She attended Cornell University's School of Hotel Administration and interned with two of New York City's best restaurant groups while she was in school. After graduation she worked at the number one wine auction house in the United States, Chicago's Hart Davis Hart Wine Co. There, she organized various wine centric events for HDH's most valuable clients. She and her husband moved to Copenhagen, Denmark in 2016 and then to Bristol, UK in 2018 and traveled through Europe extensively during their time living abroad. Her expertise in food and wine and her experience living in Europe helps her to find amazing accommodations, delicious restaurants, and unique experiences for Euro Travel Coach clients.

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