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10 Best Chainsaw Sharpener Machines

2021-06-21T09:32:00.005-07:00

Chainsaw Sharpener Machines

With chainsaw sharpener machines you can professionally and quickly sharpen the dull blades of the chainsaws. Unlike olden days, you have several choices to choose from such as bar-mounted or wall-mounted, manual or hydraulic assist, hand-powered or electric, and so on.

While on the job, if your chainsaw plays up excessively, doesn’t cut straight, or behaves unusually, the blades may have turned dull. In the olden days, there is no choice but to contact the service centers or to purchase new ones.

Nowadays, using chainsaw sharpener machines, you can sharpen the blades in your garage itself. They perform the job professionally and quickly. You can spend the saved time on your business, rather than traveling to service centers or shops.

1.) Oregon 520-120 Chainsaw Sharpener (Bench Mounted 120V)

Oregon 520-120 chainsaw sharpener fits perfectly for both commercial and personal use. This heavy-duty machine has a manual self-centering chain vise. It fits on benches and operates at 3,400 RPM.

This machine also has a built-in light for good visibility. It also features one-way motor rotation for higher safety. This product comes with one wheel for depth gauge maintenance, two grinding wheels, manuals, and a dressing brick.

Specifications

Power: 120 volts

Max speed: 3,400 RPM

Mounting options: Bench

Pitch compatibility: 5 pitch choices

Chain clamp: Manual (self-centering)

2.) Oregon 620-120 Chain Saw Sharpener

The Oregon 620-120 is a professional-grade chainsaw sharpener. This is a heavy-duty machine that can sharpen in large volumes. Operating consistently at 3,400 RPM, it can be mounted on a bench, vise, tripods, or walls.

The hydraulically assisted chain clamp provides automatic, hands-free chain clamping. This unit includes a dressing brick, a profile guide, and three nos. of grinding wheels.

Specifications

Power: 120 v

Max speed: 3,400 RPM

Mounting options: wall, bench, or vise

Pitch compatibility: All

Chain clamp: Hydraulic assist

3.) Buffalo Tools - Electric Chainsaw Sharpener (ECSS)

The Buffalo Tools ECSS is a powerful, budget-friendly, and also easy to use product. You can mount it on vise, benches, or walls. This unit is compatible with all major chain designs.

Operating at 4,200 RPM, this is one of the fast, efficient machines available. While you operate the machine, its ergonomic handle gives you total control over it. Due to its anti-vibration design, operator fatigue is very minimal compared to most other machines.

Specifications

Power: 120 volts

Max speed: 4,200 RPM

Mounting options: Vise, Bench, and Wall

Pitch compatibility: 5 pitch options

Chain clamp: Manual adjust

4.) Timber Tuff CS – BWM Benchtop/ Wall Mount Chainsaw Sharpener

Timber Tuff BWM Chainsaw Sharpener delivers professional-grade sharpening. This machine is suitable for both heavy and occasional users. Its durable steel frame fits perfectly on benches and walls.

This product also features 15-watt work lights for greater visibility. The motor operates smoothly and consistently at 3,600 RPM. It also has a beveling grinding head to suit any pitch. This product can be used to sharpen chains from all leading manufactures.

For safety, this product includes thermo-overload protection. It comes with three grinding wheels (1/8”, 3/16”, and 1/4”) and easy-to-read user manuals.

Specifications

Power: 110 volts

Max speed: 3,600 RPM

Mounting options: Bench or wall

Pitch compatibility: 5 pitch options

Chain clamp: Manual

5.) Legendary- Yes Electric Grinder Chainsaw Bench Sharpener

The Legendary-Yes electric chainsaw sharpener is an affordable machine that provides near-professional quality results. It has a sturdy design with chain rotation rollers to advance the links easily. It also has large side safety guards for protection.

For easy operations, you can also adjust its height and scale positions. Its multi-functional mounting design makes it easy to mount on walls, benches, and vise. It is also one of the best budget-friendly machines available in the market.

Specifications

Power: 120 volts

Max speed: 4,200 RPM

Mounting options: wall, vise, or bench

Pitch compatibility: All pitches

Chain clamp: Manual

6.) Oregon 310-120 Compact Chain Grinder

The Oregon 310-120 is a compact machine. With a 5,000 RPM motor, it sharpens quickly and is also a great alternative to other heavy machines. It is an ideal choice for smaller volumes of chains.

Mounting on several types of tables and benches, this machine is perfect for workshops and garages. The unit comes with manual chain clamping vice. One-way motor rotation ensures additional safety.

This machine can be used to sharpen chains made by most manufacturers including Husqvarna, Stihl, and Timberline. The package includes a profile guide, a dressing brick, two grinding wheels, and also operating instruction manuals.

Specifications

Power: 120 volts

Max speed: 5,000 RPM

Mounting options: Bench

Pitch compatibility: 5 pitch options

Chain clamp: Manual

7.) Oregon 410-120 Chain Grinder

Oregon 410-120 chain grinder is a user-friendly machine. It can be used to sharpen saw chains made by all leading manufacturers including Oregon, Husqvarna, and Stihl.

For operator safety, this machine has One-way motor rotation. It also comes with a built-in wheel wear indicator and a built-in light that provides greater visibility. Providing consistent outputs, this unit suits well for both regular and occasional use.

This product mounts on both benches and walls perfectly. You can use it in garages or workshops. Typically, the package includes three grinding wheels, a grinder, dressing brick, and a grinding template.

Specifications

Power: 120 volts

Max speed: 3,500 RPM

Mounting options: Bench or wall

Pitch compatibility: 5 pitch options

Chain clamp: Manual

8.) Oregon Chainsaw Sharpener Kit

Oregon chainsaw sharpener is a heavy-duty, compact kit. It comes in a compartmentalized case with all necessary tools neatly arranged. You can use these tools for sharpening saw chain teeth in a near-professional manner.

Some of the components like screwdriver and wrench can be used for multiple purposes also.

The product comes with round files, flat files, file guide, depth gauge, file handles, and other important tools. The handles provide sufficient grip to perform the task quickly and easily. This minimizes the operator toll to a large extent.

While you work on the saw chain, the Stump vise holds it perfectly in place, creating a good working bench on the stump. To identify the component sizes, the measuring tools are also included in the kit.

Specifications

Power: Manual

Max speed: Manual

Mounting options: Bench

Pitch compatibility: 3 pitch options

Chain clamp: None

9.) Boxgear 8-in-1 Chainsaw Sharpener Kit

Boxgear Chainsaw Sharpener is a high-quality, easy-to-use kit. It lasts longer and withstands daily wear and tear. It helps to maintain the chain edges razor-sharp, thereby reducing the cutting time on the woods.

The kit comes with 3 round files, a hardwood handle, a flat chainsaw file, a depth gauge, and also a file holder. The hardwood handle provides excellent grip while sharpening.

The product also includes a high-quality roll-up bag. It has individual pockets for storing each component.

Specifications

Power: Manual

Max speed: Manual

Mounting options: Handheld

Pitch compatibility: 3 pitch options

Chain clamp: None

10.) Katzco Chainsaw Sharpener File Kit

The Katzco Chainsaw Sharpener is a manual tool. It contains three round files suitable for 5/32 inch, 3/16-inch, 7/32-inch chain pitches. The hardwood handle provides excellent grip while sharpening chains.

The package includes flat-file and depth gauges for precise sharpening of the saw chains. Being a manual kit, it lacks the power of electric sharpeners. However, it provides smoothness and precision while sharpening chains. The portability adds to the convenience.

Specifications

Power: Manual

Max speed: Manual

Mounting options: Handheld

Pitch compatibility: 3 pitch options

Chain clamp: None

Ficus Bonsai Trees

2021-06-13T10:43:00.002-07:00

The Ficus bonsai trees (bonsai fig trees) are members of the Moraceae family which contains mulberry plants. This genus grows commonly in tropical regions throughout the world.

Ficus genus has more than 800 species. Among them, only a few subtropical and tropical species are fit to for growing as bonsai trees.

In forests, they thrive on shady floors. Hence, they can tolerate poor indoor lights and dry air. However, they cannot tolerate temperatures below 15 c (59 F). So, bring them indoors during cold winters, if you have placed them outdoors.

Growing Ficus Bonsai Trees (Bonsai Fig Trees)

With thick-waxy leaves, Ficus bonsai trees can tolerate poor indoor lightings and dry air. However, for thriving healthy, they need a bright space or full sunlight. They also require very high humidity to develop attractive, gnarled aerial roots.

To create a high humidity environment, place the Ficus bonsais pots on trays that contain water. Keep this arrangement away from the heating sources.

These plants do well when the temperature is between 59°F and 86°F. Hence, it is recommended to place them outdoors when the night temperature stays above 54°F

Watering

Water moderately, aiming at the base of Ficus bonsai trees (bonsai fig trees). Do not let the soil dry completely. However, these trees can survive a little bit of under watering and over watering fluctuations. In addition, mist them occasionally from the top.

They may require more water as you keep them warm in winters. Similarly, they may require less water if you keep them normal or cool in summers.

Fertilizing

You can feed the bonsai trees with organic or liquid fertilizers two times a month during summers and one time a month during winters. However, reduce the fertilizing frequency as the trees mature.

How to Shape Ficus Bonsai Trees (Bonsai Fig Trees)

Pruning

Most Ficus trees can be pruned throughout the year. However, it is best to prune them during spring as they produce more milky white sap liquids in this season. This helps in faster wound healings. The stubs dry after a few days. Then remove them from barks to minimize the scar marks.

Regular pruning is essential to maintain the shape of the trees. Since most of these trees develop large leaves, you can use defoliation methods to reduce the leaf size.

To grow thick trunks, leave the trees to grow undisturbed for one or two years. After that, these trees develop the ability to withstand shortcuts with almost no health issues. New stems sprout out readily from the pruned trunks quickly.

Wiring

Generally, thin to medium branches have the most flexibility. You can use wiring methods to shape them. But check the wires regularly as they can cut through the branches.

Strong branches are not flexible. You can use guy wires for shaping as they can be left out on branches for longer periods.

Approach-Grafting

In this technique, different branches, roots, and trunks are fused together and pressurized to form appealing structures. You can also use simple grafting techniques to heal wounds of any size quickly.

Propagation

Ficus bonsai trees (bonsai fig trees) can be grown throughout the year. However, for high success rates, cutting propagations can be done in summer. Seed propagation or Air-layering can be done in spring.

After propagation, repot the bonsai trees every year in spring. Use high-quality bonsai mixture for repotting. You can also trim the roots to encourage fresh growth.

Most fig species can resist pests and diseases. However, poor indoor environments like low light, dry air, etc., can weaken them. This may cause leaf drop. Some common pests like scales and spider mites can also infect weak indoor plants including Bonsai trees.

Use insecticidal sprays or neem oil sprays to deter the pests. Keep the plants every day under plant lights for about 12 -14 hours. In most cases, these steps can help the trees to recover from weakness.

Common Varieties

Ficus Benjamina

Ficus Benjamina is one of the rare species. This slow grower needs typical caring. Also known as ‘weeping fig’, these trees are often pruned 3- 6 feet tall to fit indoors.

Arching gracefully, the slender branches provide appealing looks. The light grey trunk is sometimes decorated for festivals and events.

The leaves are dark green in color and have glossy textures. These trees shed their leaves under stress.

When you relocate them indoors, these plants think it's time to produce new leaves according to the new environment. So, they shed their existing leaves appearing barely for some days. Hence, avoid shifting these trees often.

Ficus Retusa

Ficus retusa is one of the rare fig species that can be grown both outdoors and indoors. They usually have thick, small trunks. Most commonly, the trunks of these trees are wired to form “s” shapes. The dark green leaves have oval shapes.

Like most other fig species, these trees need plenty of sunlight to thrive healthily. With a beautiful appearance, these trees are perfect for modern homes and also for natural spaces.

Ficus Salicifolia

If you are a beginner, start bonsai culture with Ficus Salicifolia trees. Also known as Willow Leaf Ficus Bonsais, these trees are easy to care.

They also have a miniature appearance with their small, narrow, and willow-like leaves. The trunks turn into thick caudex within a few days. Like most fig species, these plants like to grow under full sun. With their great adaptational abilities, they can also grow in partial shades and also indoors.

Surviving several years, these trees are most active in summers. They are mostly shaped with wiring techniques.

Ficus Ginseng

With thick roots posing above the soil, Ficus Ginseng trees have unique looks. The appears is as though the plant stands on its multiple legs. The reddish-grey stems have tiger-like stripes.

The densely growing dark green leaves have oval shapes. Comparatively, these trees require very little caring.

Top 10 Rare Succulents

2021-06-10T10:22:00.011-07:00

10 Best Rare Succulents

Nowadays, many gardeners like to grow rare succulents along with their plant collections. These plants have peculiar colors and different anatomical adaptations. They also provide unique looks to your gardens.

However, it is difficult to find them in commercial plant markets. Sometimes, they produce fewer seeds or have rooting issues. Propagating and caring for them can be an unusually difficult task. Hence, maintaining rare succulents in gardens can be challenging.

1. Tephracactus Articulatus (Paper Spine Cactus)

The stems of Tephracactus Articulatus have flat, long pseudo-spine-like segments. These segments stack up against each other. They may also fall apart easily as they have lesser bonding arrangements. The fallen segments regrow as individual plants again.

Growing about 12 inches tall, these rare succulents are disinclined towards blooming. However, the sprouted blooms are white in color. These plants cannot thrive in heavy frosts. During winters just bring them indoors and grow them in a sunny spot or under grow lights.

These plants prefer to grow under full sunlight and cacti soils with good drainage. Water them less frequently and make sure the soil is completely dry before watering. These plants may die in soggy soils.

2. Pachyphytum Compactum (Little Jewel)

The short stems and tightly branched leaves of Pachyphytum compactum form a beautiful rosette at the top. These plants tend to spread as they grow.

The fleshy leaves, with many colors, appear showy in a jewel pattern. This is the source of their nickname, “little jewel”. The species of these plants are indigenous to the rocky slopes of Hidalgo, Mexico

Typically, the leaves appear in bluish-green color. They also have a powdered natural wax coating (farina). When stressed by cold or hot climates, the foliage sometimes turns violet.

These plants cannot survive hard frosts. They may even die at temperatures lower than - 6°C. To avoid these problems, just bring them inside your homes during the cold winter months.

They thrive well in succulent soils that have good drainage. Do not overwater them as they can die in soggy soils.

3. Haworthia Truncata v. Maughanii

Haworthia Truncata v. Maughanii is native to South Africa. These plants tend to retreat underground to protect themselves from high heat and foraging animals.

The thick leaves are blue-green in color. They have epidermal windows at the top for fenestration. Most common pests and diseases do not bother Haworthia Truncata v. Maughanii plants frequently.

These drought-tolerant plants prefer more sunlight than other succulents. They also have strong rooting systems and need less water.

These slow growers develop new offsets in clumps around their bases. Simply leave them to form new clumps or remove and transplant them in other locations.

During summer peaks, these plants tend to go dormant by gradually decreasing their activities. Therefore, do not overwater or fertilize them. Unlike other succulents, these plants tend to grow in winter. Hence water them a bit more in winters.

4. Ariocarpus Trigonus (Living Rock)

Ariocarpus Trigonus is a low-lying rare succulent. Growing slightly above the ground, these plants reach 10 inches in height and spread wide about 12 inches. These plants have stern globose stems and beautiful whitish-yellow flowers with reddish or purplish midribs.

Ariocarpus Trigonus plants should be grown in cacti soils. Otherwise, they may suffer from lesser aeration and inadequate drainage. They should also be grown in full sun. However, if the climate becomes very hot, provide them with shades.

These plants thrive well in low humidity and room temperatures. Hence, watering them often is not required. During cool dormant months, it is recommended to avoid the watering process completely.

5. Adromischus Maculatus (Calico Hearts)

With different color combinations and unusual shapes, Adromischus Maculatus can beautify any type of garden. These low-growing succulents are perennial plants. They grow about 6 inches tall and 1.4 inches wide.

Typically, the grey-green leaves turn scarlet with purple spots under stress. The yellow-green tubular flowers sprout in winters. These plants do well in conventional cacti soils that have good drainage.

During the cold months, if the temperature drops under 20° F, bring these plants indoors. They cannot tolerate heavy frosts. Also, completely stop watering during winters.

6.Othonna Capensis (Ruby Necklace)

Othonna Capensisis is native to South Africa. These plants require deep watering occasionally for growing healthy. However, make sure the soil becomes dry completely in between the watering schedule. Avoid watering them during the winters when they go dormant.

Make sure to use appropriately sized containers so that they can grow freely. They also require full sunlight. However, they can tolerate partial shades also.

These herbs grow quicker and spread immensely. They grow vertically for about 5 cm. After that, they begin to trail towards the ground. The beans are usually in green color. It can sometimes be in red or purple color also.

The stems usually have purple to red colors. Small, daisy-like flowers, are in yellow color. They bloom all around the year. These plants can grow well in most of the soils that have good drainage. These plants also do not demand much. Hence, you can maintain them easily.

You can beautify your desert gardens, greenhouse, and indoor spaces with these rare succulents. They will never fail to impress with their unique, stylish looks.

7. Astrophytum Asterias (Sand Dollar Cactus)

Astrophytum Asterias from cactaceae family is one of the rare succulents available in commercial markets. The other names for these plants include Sea Urchin Cactus, Sand Dollar Cactus, and Star Peyote. These plants are native to the hot plains of Mexico.

These slow growers measure 4 – 5 cm in height and spread about 15 cm. they also have small white spots on their green skins. About 8 slits divide them into 8 sections externally.

The flowering season for these plants is from spring to early fall. The flowers are yellow in color and sprout at the top. Mostly, these plants are grown in small pots due to their compact size.

These plants do well under full sun and also in partial shades. Use cacti soils with good drainage to propagate Astrophytum Asterias plants. Water moderately when the soil becomes completely dry. These plants are sensitive to water and may die in soggy soils.

8.Conophytum Subglobosum

Conophytum Subglobosum is a perennial, stemless succulent that forms clumps at the base. These rare succulents grow slowly. A couple of succulent leaves fuse together and form succulent mounds. These mounds also have pea-shaped heads and various colors including grey-green, red and purple.

The small flowers have nocturnal characteristics, faint scents, and spidery petals. These flowers also appear in various colors including white, cream, and yellow.

Typically, these plants have a very rudimentary filamentous root system. The flowering season for these plants is usually during fall.

Conophytum Subglobosum plants prefer to grow under full light. They can also thrive in partial shades. These easy-to-grow plants have minimal watering requirements.

9. Echeveria x Imbricata (Blue Rose Echeveria)

Blue Rose Echeveria (Echeveria x imbricata) is considered to be one of the oldest echeveria hybrids. It is a hybrid cross variety of Echeveria metallica and Echeveria glauca species.

This slow-growing vigorous succulent reaches about 4 – 8 inches in height and 4 -6 inches in wide. The bluish-green leaves form tight rosettes at the top. Sometimes, they also have purple tips.

Clusters of small, yellow, bell-shaped flowers appear in spring or early summer. They do not have fragrances. These hardy, slow growers are easy to care for. They grow well in succulents that have good drainage. They also need a minimum of 4 -6 hours of sunlight, if grown indoors.

During the initial stages of growth, these plants require more water. However, as they grow, their water requirement lessens gradually. Make sure the soil is dry before watering.

10. Albuca Spiralis (Frizzle Sizzle)

In the gardening world, Albuca spiralis (Frizzle Sizzle) is among the unusual, rare succulents. The short stems emerge out of underground blubs. The leaves grow upon the stems and have spiral tips.

The blooming season of these plants is usually spring. Yellow flowers sprout on spikes with a pleasant, sweet fragrance.

Albuca spiralis (Frizzle Sizzle) requires plenty of sunlight to thrive healthier. Grow them in well-draining cacti soils for best results. Always check the soil for dryness before watering. If the soil is dry completely, start watering. Otherwise, avoid watering.

These plants are not often infected by common diseases or pests. However, the complex requirements may be challenging for a new gardener.

Types of Lawn Mowers available in the Market

2021-06-03T03:35:00.004-07:00

Lawn Movers

In the maintenance of lawns, yards, or gardens, lawnmowers have an important role to play. You may simply want to cut down the overgrown meadows or maintain the gardens in a neat way. In any case, you require these wonderful machines.

However, there is a number of factors you should consider while purchasing one. This includes their power, drives, usage, and much more. We have elaborated some of them below

1.Riding Lawn Mowers (Powerful, Convenient)

For large spaces, you can use riding lawnmowers. These high productive machines make the job easier. They help in saving time and increase efficiency. These machines can be categorized broadly into three types.

Lawn Tractors

The common type of ride-on mowers is lawn tractors. Having front-mounted engines, these machines have large decks, usually about 42 – 54 inches. They are mostly powered by 18 -25 Hp engines.

You can find basic models with single cylinders and expensive ones with twin cylinders. The top-priced models also have auto transmission. Ranging between 1000 to 3000 USD, these machines are comparatively priced.

However, these machines are not good maneuvers especially when the surfaces are not even. This can cause uneven grass cuttings here and there.

Zero-turn Lawn Mower

In the past few years, Zero-turn mowers have become most popular among gardeners. The lap bars are positioned to operate from the front seat. These bars control the transmission systems fixed at the rear wheels.

These machines are built in essence for easy maneuverability. Hence, handling them is easy and stress-free. These machines provide excellent performance while mowing the lawns, especially in irregular-shaped lands.

In a short time, these machines provide better finishing. They can get much closer to the obstacles or edges and mow down the grasses.

2. Walk Mowers (Affordable)

These machines are suited for small lawns up to half acres. It may take hours to mow such lawns manually. However, it is a good exercise also! There are different varieties of walk mowers with a wide price range.

Cylinder Mowers (Reel Mowers)

These machines usually have vertically rotating cylindrical blades fitted at the front. When you push the machine, these blades rotate, trap grass against a stationary blade, and cut them finely.

Higher-priced models have up to 12 blades, providing more fine, precise cuts. These machines are designed for flatlands. Hence, they may not work well on rough surfaces.

They also work finely with smooth grass and do not work well with coarse grass and long grass. Hence, it is recommended to use mow the grass at least two times a week, particularly in the growing season.

Periodical maintenance is essential as the blades tend to fade with usage. The blades are usually fixed in less accessible positions. Spare parts availability is also less. Hence, you may face difficulties while repairing them.

Rotary Mower

These are one of the most commonly used walk along with mowers. The rotary mower has a long, horizontally rotating blade. As in food processors, this blade rotates at very high speeds. It cuts down the grass as it contacts while moving.

These machines are well suited for medium to long grass. However, the cuts are less precise compare to reel movers. This difference is not much visible on average lawns.

Push Mower

Push mowers require manual force for clipping the grass. Being strenuous, these machines are suited only for small lawns on level grounds. These simple, environmentally friendly mowers do not make noise or emit hazardous gases like the powered machines.

These machines have similar vertically rotating reel blade arrangements as with the case of reel mowers. While you push these machines, the rotating blades mow down the grass.

These lightweight, least expensive machines are easy to handle and offer high maneuverability. You can steer them around any type of obstacle to cut the grass more precisely.

On the flip side, these machines exert more physical force. Hence some people may avoid using them, especially on hilly lawns.

Self-Propelled Mower

Self-propelled lawnmowers use advanced mechanisms to propel themselves forward. You just have to operate them. These machines are easy to operate and save a lot of time by completing the job quickly.

Maintaining consistent speed, they can mow the lawns more perfectly than humans. As a result, the lawns have a neat and professional look.

With advanced machinery, these systems need regular maintenance. They are more expensive but worth every penny you spend on them.

Hover Mower

While mowing lawns, the hover mowers, sit on a cushion of air above the ground by a few inches. This results in less friction and becomes easy to maneuver anywhere as needed on the surface. You can easily mow the grass around the edges or at uneven borders.

The main disadvantage of these relatively inexpensive mowers is that they lack power. This becomes more apparent while clipping large lawns. Hence, these machines may suit well only for small lawns. Most of these machines are electrically powered.

3. Power Mowers ( Powerful )

There are different types of mower machines with various power sources available in commercial markets. You can any type or model depending on your lawn area.

Manual-Powered Mower

Manual powered mowers just push mowers. They suit well for small areas. These machines are inexpensive and a single motor. This motor is only used to rotate the blades and not for momentum.

Hence, the users have to push them tirelessly with muscle power. For this reason, many gardeners avoid these machines.

On the positive side, these Eco-friendly machines do not produce much noise and are easily portable.

Electric Powered Mower

Electric motors operate electric-powered mowers. These machines are best for small to medium lawns. These compact, lightweight power mowers are easy to operate and handle. It is also easy to store them in small places.

Being powered by electricity, these machines do not require battery charging or refueling. Operating at constant speeds, these machines provide superb consistency while mowing the lawns. Typically, the cost of these machines ranges between 100 -250 USD.

On the flip side, the cables are always attached to these machines. These trailing cables may come between rotating blades or tangle you. So, you always have to mind these cables while operating these machines.

Also, you have to measure the length of the cables with respect to your lawns while purchasing. Otherwise, you may not be able to mow every corner of the lawns.

Gas-Powered Mower

Gas-powered mowers run on petrol engines. They suit large lawns and gardens. These powerful machines can mower dense, large, small, and almost any type of grass efficiently and quickly. This helps in saving a lot of time.

You can easily steer and maneuver these machines around trees, rocks, and almost any obstacles. The larger, powerful petrol engines increase the weight of these machines by many folds.

Petrol engines are a source of noise and pollution. Hence, you may feel disturbed while operating them. However, some advanced models are designed to produce less pollution and less noise.

For smooth operations, regular maintenance is essential. It is also recommended to watch for oil and fuel levels every time you use these machines. These most expensive machines cost about 200 – 1000 USD.

Battery-Powered Mower

Battery-powered mowers run on battery engines. Modern engines are powered by lithium-ion batteries. In general, battery mowers are easy to operate, have less weight and also offer good maneuverability.

Without chord restrictions, these machines carry all benefits of electric mowers. They are also slightly heavier than electric mowers.

These machines suit well for small to medium lawns. For large lawns, you may have to recharge the battery several times. These machines require battery replacement every few years.

Battery-powered mowers also cost a little more than electric ones. The price of good quality machines may exceed 500 USD.

4. Drive Types (Drive Trains)

For maximum performance, select a mower with an appropriate drive train, specific to the terrain of the lawns. There are three types of drive trains. They are the all-wheel-drive (AWD), rear-wheel drive (RWD), and front-wheel drive (FWD).

Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)

In rear-wheel-drive mowers, the power is transmitted through the rear wheels. Simply speaking, rear wheels push these mowers forward. These systems work well for open lawns. They also work well on steep inclines, rough surfaces, bumps, and terrains.

On the flip side, these types of mowers struggle while traveling backward (reversing). Changing directions, maneuvering in small or irregular lawns can be also difficult with these machines.

Front-Wheel Drive (FWD)

In FWD Mowers, the power is transmitted to the front wheels. Simply speaking, the FWD mowers are pulled by the motion of the front wheels. These types of mowers work well for plain and level lawns.

Being easy to steer, these machines can be maneuvered easily around the obstacles. This is especially useful while clipping lawns that are irregularly shaped.

However, these mowers do not perform well on rough terrains and steep inclines.

All Wheel Drive (AWD)

The AWD mowers move forward by the motion of all four wheels. The power source distributes the power evenly to all four wheels. Also, some modern more expensive mowers increase the power to a single wheel on demand.

The main advantage of AWD mowers is their power and speed. You can use them to mow almost any kind of land including rough surfaces and steep inclines. However, these machines fall behind the FWD mowers in terms of maneuverability.

These machines are powered by 450 – 700 cc engines and have decks ranging in sizes between 32 – 60 inches. You can purchase them for around 1000 - 6000 USD, depending on the models.

What is Loam Soil

2021-05-05T09:05:00.002-07:00

Loam

There are different types of soils available in nature. Loam is one among them. Different types of plants prefer to grow in various types of soils. However, most of them prefer to thrive in Loam soil. Even if your soil is unsatisfactory, you can fix it and transform it into loam in many ways.

Loam soil and Topsoil

You can find most planting instructions often suggesting to plant in loamy soils. But you should know what is loamy soil in the first place. Loam soil is a balanced, healthy mix of clay, silt, and sand.

Usually, the uppermost 30 cm (12”) of ground soil is called topsoil. It need not be loamy soil. Depending on the location, this soil may contain sand, clay, or silt to the most part. Even if you purchase topsoil, there is no guarantee that it will be loam soil.

Soil Types

Sandy soil – when dry, it is coarse. It will run smoothly in between your fingers when you pick them. When damp, if you make a ball out of this soil, the ball will crumble away. It will not be stable. Naturally, this soil cannot hold water. However, it has plenty of space for oxygen to spread.

Clay soil – when wet, it feels slippery. You can easily create a ball out of it. When dry, the soil is compact and rough.

Silt soil – This soil is a mixture of sand and clay. Hence, it is soft. When wet, you can make a loose ball, neither hard nor crumbling.

Loam

In fact, loam is a proportionate mixture of sand, clay, and silt. It can hold wetness for a shorter period. Then it will start draining at a rate of about 15-30 cm per hour. This soil also contains both minerals and nutrients in enough quantity for most plants.

The plant roots can travel easily through this soil, sucking nutrients and water as needed. Hence plants thrive well in this soil. Rains, watering, etc. are other factors that wash away the soil nutrients. With age, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients and minerals.

Hence, add organic matter like fallen foliage, wooden barks, etc. to the soil every year. This replenishes the soil with the fresh matter. This also caters to plant health and sustainability.

Finding Soil Type

Using a mason jar, you can easily find the type of soil in your garden. Purchase a 1-quart mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Using a trowel, dig about 8 inches deep in your garden. Collect the soil in a pan. If you have large gardens, collect soils from different areas in your garden, following the same process.

Combine the soils and pour them into a jar about half of its capacity. Then fill the jar with water about three-quarters. Add a teaspoon of liquid dish soap. Close the lid tightly and shake the jar well for at least three minutes.

After that, leave the jar undisturbed for about a day. If your garden contains clayey soil, you may leave the jar undisturbed for about 2 days.

On the third day, check the jar visibly. Generally, heavy materials like gravel or coarse sand will sink to the bottom. Smaller sand particles reside above that. Clay settles on the top.

Some other common results you may expect are:

Sandy soil – a layer of heavy particles settles at the bottom. The water above will have a clear appearance.

Clayey soil – a thin layer of dust particles settles at the bottom. The water above will have a cloudy appearance. Silty soil also has similar results.

Peaty soil – a thin layer of sediment settles at the bottom. The water above will have a murky appearance as a lot of debris floating in it. However, the water will not appear as cloudy as the case with clayey soils. Peat is acidic soil.

Chalky soil – a layer of white fragments settles at the bottom of the jar. The water will have a pale grayish appearance. chalky soil is alkaline soil.

Loam soil - About three distinct layers of soil settle at the bottom of the jar. The bottom layer consists of sand. The middle layer consists of silt and the top layer consists of clay.

if all the three layers are of almost similar size, you have the best loamy soil in your garden. Otherwise, you have to work the soil to make it loamy

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Powdery Mildew Disease

2021-05-02T10:51:00.003-07:00

Powdery Mildew

A common fungal disease, powdery mildew spreads among almost any type of plant in moderately warm, humid environments. Unless specially bred, no plant is safe from this disease. The most vulnerable plants include roses, lilacs, cucumbers, squash, phlox, red bee balm plants, and flowering crab apple trees

Mostly, the fungal spores reside in the buds. They readily overwinter in vegetative debris. These fungal spores can travel in mediums like water, air, and also on insects.

Identification

Upon infecting, this disease leaves cream or white-colored dusty splotches on the infected portions. Mostly, the infection starts from the underside of the leaves. Then it covers the upper leaves. The infection may also start in other portions such as stems, flower buds, fruits, etc.

Some fungal pathogens of this disease are specific to some types of plants. But many of them can infest a wide range of plants.

Symptoms

The powdery mildew is rarely fatal disease. However, it robs the nutrients and water causing weakness in plants. As a result, the plants become vulnerable to other diseases as well.

Upon infection, the leaves turn yellow, wilt, and fall off prematurely. It also disrupts the photosynthesis process, lessening the sugar production in plants. This disease can also cause stunted growth in plants.

Treating Powdery Mildew

1.) Remove the visible infected portions using sterilized plant clippers. After that, wash your hands with alcohol wipes. Do not compost the infected foliage, as they can cater to the fungal regrowth.

2.) Use sulfur, copper, bicarbonate fungicides to curtail the infection. Neem oils have provided mixed results in the past. You can also use homemade remedies such as baking soda or milk solutions.

3.) Prove the plants enough room to breathe’ by pruning and thinning them periodically. Also, avoid fertilizing the young plants and infected plants. This may spread the infection quicker.

4.) Watering the plants from above can dampen the foliage, encouraging the spores. So, avoid this action.

Prevention

Maintaining a plant environment unfavorable to disease is the best defense against most diseases. While purchasing itself, buy powdery mildew-resistant cultivars. If not possible, purchase healthy plants after a thorough inspection.

Grow the plants under the sun. Avoid growing them in shades as it encourages dampness, thereby increasing the chances of disease infections.

Plant at an appropriate distance and thin them as they grow following the recommendations. Prune the plants regularly and remove the dead matter. Make sure to dispose of the debris as soon as possible. These steps are essential to provide an air passage around the plants.

Growing plants with sufficient air path and also under sun depriving dampness helps to curtail the powdery mildew infection to a great extent.

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Whiteflies Infection and Control

2021-04-30T09:32:00.008-07:00

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are small winged insects with soft bodies. They look like moths than flies. They have a powdery wax coating protecting their bodies. They usually live underside of the leaves in clusters.

Globally, these insects are active throughout the year. During winters these flies go dormant, especially in the north.

The whitefly infection is common in summer. In warmer regions, these insects reproduce year-round. Both outdoor and indoor plants are vulnerable to these insects.

In cooler regions, outdoor plants are comparatively safer than indoor plants from these pests. Whiteflies cannot survive in freezing outdoor temperatures. However, if you have bought infected plants, you may have to deal with seasonal infections.

Species

In fact, there are more than 1550 known species of whiteflies. While most are specific to plant types, few are not. These few species can infect almost any type of plant.

Silverleaf, greenhouse, citrus, giant, bandedwinged, etc., are some of the well-known species globally.

Greenhouse, citrus and Silverleaf are most common in the US and can infect almost any plant. They are not plant-specific. Among them, the greenhouse species are easy to control. Silverleaf is slightly smaller in size and most is most commonly found in Sothern parts of the US.

Life cycle

The whiteflies develop through several stages from eggs. The final stage is the pupa stage in which the young pests change into adults.

Within a week of emerging, adults start to lay eggs. The small eggs are usually laid in hidden locations like under leaves. Then, the young pests emerge out from the eggs and start to feed on plants almost instantly.

The time frame of development is usually less than a month. But it can extend up to a year, under unfavorable conditions. Regardless of the timeframe, the host plants’ damage is inevitable.

Identification

Like aphids, while flies have piercing mouthparts. Hence, they suck the plant juices easily and excrete honeydews. This liquid further causes fungal infections such as sooty mold on leaves.

In addition, this sugary liquid lures other pests like ants or beetles that cause their own infections.

As these pests feed on, the plants lose their vital sap juices and become extremely weak, losing their ability to carry out photosynthesis. Turning yellow, the foliage wilts, shrivels, and ultimately drop off from the plants. The plants may also suffer stunted growth.

Controlling

You can control whiteflies using different methods. If you have found the infection, start the treatment as immediately as possible.

Initially, you can use traps to catch the whiteflies. This confirms the infection. After that, blast the infected plants with hose waters. This eliminates mild infections.

You can also use vacuum cleaners to suck the pests out of the plants. Repeat the process every 2-3 days.

If the infection still persists, you can use insecticidal soap sprays to kill the pests. Follow the directions in the package and repeat the process as necessary. You can use either purchased insecticidal soaps or homemade ones.

Prevention

There are a number of ways to prevent whiteflies.

While purchasing new seedlings, inspect them for possible infection. keep them away from other plants in the initial days. if any symptoms of infection appear, treat them immediately.

Introducing natural predators like spiders, dragonflies, ladybugs hummingbirds, etc., is the best way to prevent these pests. In any case, avoid using harmful chemicals. Whiteflies are resistant to these chemicals. On the other hand, these chemicals kill beneficial insects more than pests.

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Growing Avocados in Gardens

2021-04-28T21:07:00.000-07:00

Avocado Tree

The avocado tree bears avocado fruit. The fruits are also known as avocado pear and alligator pear. These trees are native to southcentral Mexico and are members of the flowering plant family Lauraceae. Cultivators of many countries with Mediterranean and tropical climates grow these trees commercially. Most of them use grafting propagation to maintain the quality and quantity of the yield. These trees also have self-pollinating capabilities.

The avocado fruits are botanically large berries with large seeds. The ripened fruits have butter like smooth flesh. The fruit skins have various shades like green, black, brown, or purple depending on the cultivar. Their shapes also differ such as pear, egg (oval), or sphere.

History

In the 1696 index of Jamaican plants, Hans Sloane was the one coining the word ‘avocado’ in English, initially. These plants were first introduced in Spain in 1601. Then they were introduced in Indonesia, Mauritius, Brazil, and the US in 1750, 1780, 1809, and 1825 respectively.

Later, they were introduced in South Africa and Australia in the late 19th century. In the US avocado was planted in Florida and Hawaii in 1833, followed by California in 1856.

Until the California Avocado Association referred to these plants as “avocados”, Californians called these fruits ahuacate and Floridians called these fruits “alligator pear”.

Description

Normally, the matured avocado trees measure about 20 m in height. The leaves are leathery and dark green in color. They measure about 12 -25 cm long. The flowers are about 5–10 mm wide and yellowish-green in color. Since an endocarp covers the seed, this fruit is biologically a berry. This fruit weighs about 100 – 1000 grams.

Types of Avocado Trees

There are three main types of avocado trees. Viz., Guatemalan, Mexican and West Indian. Among them, the Mexican type tolerates the coldest, and the West Indian type tolerates the least cold.

The most popular variety in the united states is Hass. It is a Guatemalan x Mexican hybrid.

Rudolph Hass found this variety accidentally’ in his garden. He patented the variety in his name. This variety gained huge popularity. Presently, more than 80% of US -Grown Avocados are Hass Avocados.

Sharwil variety of avocados are grown in Hawaii. They are also a Guatemalan x Mexican hybrid. They grow taller than most other varieties. However, this variety is not available in all the states due to complex USDA regulations.

Pollination

Naturally, the avocados are self-pollinating trees. They produce flowers in excess of a million during the flowering months to attract the pollinators. However, only a few of them fruit and most of them fall off.

Both female and male parts are contained in the same flower. Hence, they behave unusually. This behavior is called protogynous dichogamy. Over the period of two days, all the flowers in a tree act as females on day 1 and males on day 2. They open only for about 6 hours a day and remain closed for the remaining 6 hours.

They also need temperatures about 70°F for this sequence to happen. Also, the opening sequence varies depending on the type of tree.

Type A

Day 1 (Morning) - Female

Day 1 (After noon) - Closed

Day 2 (Morning) - Closed

Day 2 (After noon) - Male

Type B

Day 1 (Morning) - Closed

Day 1 (After noon) - Female

Day 2 (Morning) - Male

Day 2 (After noon) - Closed

To increase the pollination, it is recommended to interplant both types (A & B) nearby in the garden.

Propagation

Avocado trees thrive well under full sun. They also can grow well in many soil types with different pH levels. However, these trees do well in sandy, loamy (coarse) textured soils that drain well. Avoid soils with high saline content to grow these trees. It is recommended to start the propagation in the spring.

Seedlings

You can purchase the seedlings online or from any garden center nearby.

Dig a large hole enough to accommodate the seedling pot itself. With loose dirt, backfill the hole for a few inches. Adding fertilizer or compost is not necessary.

Without disturbing the sensitive roots, take out the seedlings carefully from the pot. Place them in the hole and close the hole with mud. Mulch around the plant and water deeply.

Grafting

Grafting involves a scion (twig) and a rootstock that provides the lower trunk portion and the roots. This method is faster and can produce fruits in about two or three years.

With seeds, you can grow the rootstocks yourself. Normally they take around four to eight months to form rootstocks. If you wish to reduce this waiting period, you can grow seeds of West Indian varieties. Comparatively, they grow quicker.

Caring

After planting, water the plants twice or thrice in the first week. After that, gradually decrease the watering to about at least once a week.

Feed the plants with 10-30-10 fertilizer every two months in the initial years. When the trees mature, switch to 10-5-20 fertilizer feeding twice a year.

Pruning is often not required. If you prefer to control the height of tall-growing varieties, prune the heads carefully as needed.

Pests and Diseases

The common pests that infest avocado trees include lace bugs, scales, borers, mites, caterpillars, and thrips. But they do not damage these trees severely.

Most of them can be treated with neem oils or Bacillus thuringiensis. Fungal infections can be treated with corresponding fungicides.

Prevention includes planting the right varieties in locations, keeping the weeds under control, and maintaining cleanliness in the gardens. Rake the gardens periodically and dispose of the debris immediately.

Harvesting

Harvesting avocados, in general, is a challenging task. Usually, avocados are harvested while they are still green and hard. They are allowed to ripen off tree. Ideally, these fruits are harvested in September.

As of September approaches, note the color change on the fruits. If the color dulls a bit, pick one or two large fruits and allow them to ripe at room temperatures for about 3 – 7 days. If they become soft and ready to eat, you can continue the harvest.

If they taste bitter and become rubbery, shrivel, rot, etc., the other fruits are not yet ready to harvest. Repeat the testing process after some days.

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Growing Mexicola Avocado Trees

2021-04-26T08:01:00.005-07:00

Mexicola Avocado

There are many varieties of avocadoes available to purchase in the nurseries. Among them, Mexicola Avocado is a cold-hardy, vigorous variety that produces high-quality fruits. It can thrive well in cooler areas even where the temperatures fall about 20 F. After maturing, every individual tree produces about 30 pounds of yield (fruits). These species are native to Mexican highlands.

Weighing about 5 – 7 ounces, the fruits are medium to large in size. The ripened fruits have thin skins with purple-black color. The inner flesh has a nutty flavor and yellowish-green in color. The large seeds at the center are easy to remove while preparing the fruits.

USDA Hardiness Zones

Based on climate and temperatures, the USDA zones indicate the regions where certain kinds of plants can grow. In zones 8 – 11, Mexicola Avocado trees can thrive outdoors. This simply means, if you live in regions from South Carolina to Texas, you can grow these trees outside.

In Zones 4 – 11, these trees can be grown in containers outdoors. However, you have to get the containers indoors during cool winters.

Propagation

Spring or Summer is the best season to start the propagation. Select a space that receives full sunlight at least for about 6 hours every day. These trees can thrive in partial shades also. But the fruiting quantity and quality decrease proportionally to shade.

Mexicola Avocado trees can be propagated through seeds, seedlings, grafting, and layering.

Seed propagation

In this method, the fruits produced by the offspring may not be identical in quality to those produced by the parent. It may also take in excess of 6 years for fruiting. So, this method is not recommended.

Seedlings

This is one of the most successful and easiest methods.

After purchasing a seedling, remove it from the container carefully. Do not damage the roots. Dig a hole so as to accommodate the root ball. Plant the seedling in the hole and backfill the soil. Water the plant thoroughly.

Other Propagation Methods

Other methods include layering and grafting. These methods are also easy and have good successful rations.

Pollination

Mexicola Avocado trees are self-pollinating trees. The flowers of these trees distribute pollens through pollinators for pollination among themselves. To attract the pollinators, these trees produce flowers in excess of a million in the flowering periods. The sad part is, most of the flowers fall off without developing fruits.

The avocado flowers have both male and female parts in them. They open as females on the first day and males on the following day. They also open only for a few hours either in the morning or in the afternoon. This unusual behavior is known as ‘protogynous dichogamy’.

Depending on the behavior of the flowers, avocados trees are classified into type A or type B.

Mexicola Avocado, Gwen, Hass, etc., are type A trees. The flowers of these trees open as females in the morning of the first day and close in the afternoon. They remain closed in the morning of the second day and open as males in the afternoon.

Nabal, Shepard, Ettinger, etc., are type B trees. The flowers of these trees remain closed in the morning of the first day and open as females in the afternoon. They open as males in the morning of the second day and close their petals in the afternoon.

Interplanting type A trees with type B trees increases the effective yield.

The Mexicola Avocado trees develop fruits in about 3 – 4 years. You can harvest these fruits by September. The matured fruits have black or purple skins. They also will become soft. You can pluck these fruits with your hands or using poles. These delicious fruits have high oil content. They also have a mild nutty flavor.

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All about Root Rot Disease

2021-04-24T04:58:00.007-07:00

Root Rot Disease

Root rot is a lethal plant disease. It can be caused due to waterlogging or various types of fungi. Waterlogging can be caused due to poor drainage, rainfall, or overwatering.

However, poor drainage is the primary cause of waterlogging. Water flows out through sandy type of soil. But clayey soils, often found in gardens hold the water for longer periods. This causes waterlogging.

The plant roots require oxygen to breathe. But the logged water prevents them from breathing. Being soaked in wet soils, they also decay. Hence, they lose their ability to absorb the essential nutrients and water.

Under these conditions, the plants are deprived of essential nutrients. They wilt, decolorize, and also have stunted growth. Ultimately, the plants die out sometimes in a couple of weeks.

Root rot is caused by soilborne Fungai also such as Phytophthora. This Fungai thrives well in wet soils. Failing the roots, it also causes the plants to die.

Usually, the infested plants are easy to pull out, as they are weak.

Identifying Root Rot

In fact, the disease starts with the underground roots. After the disease intensifies, the leaves and other above-ground parts show signs of infection. At this stage, the damage is already done to the plants.

Normally, the leaves of the infected plants turn yellow. They may also appear unusually small, twisted, curled, etc., Finally, they drop off from the plants. if you inspect the roots, they may appear blackish or dark brownish. They may also stink with rotten threads.

Another sign is, no matter how much you increase watering quantity, the leaves or other visible parts always appear wilted.

Preventing Root Rot

Preventing measures are simple than many people think. Just avoid overwatering and provide good drainage for the plant soils. These two steps can help prevent the disease to a large extent.

Watering

In terms of measurement, it is difficult to determine the quantity of water, considered as too much water. The best practical way to find whether the plant is receiving enough water is, to dig the soil, just outside the root zone.

If the soil is soggy, decrease the water, and if it is dry increase the water. Normally, the soil in and around the root zones should be evenly wet.

Drainage

There are a number of ways to increase the drainage capacity of the soils. Some of them are:

1.) Installing French drains in the field

2.) Growing plants in the raised beds

3.) Amending the soil with compost or other agents

4.) Pry off the soil and aerating periodically

Treating Root Rot

If you see the symptoms in the plants, just dig them out immediately. Wash the roots and check the damage. if the damage is excess, you have to destroy the plant immediately, so as to avoid further transmission of disease to other healthy plants.

However, if you damage is lesser, you can simply remove off the diseased portions with sterilized garden tools. Then, replant the plant in a fresh new location that has good drainage. Make sure to add Friable soil to avoid the root rot infection in the future.

Plants for the Wet Soils

If your soil is always wetter or soggy, grow plants that can tolerate these soils. For instance, willows (like Salix discolor) and Northern blue flag (Iris versicolor) can thrive well in wet soils.

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Cotton Root Rot Disease

2021-04-21T01:58:00.006-07:00

Cotton Root Rot

Cotton Root Rot has different names such as Texas root rot, Phymatotrichum root rot, Phymatotrichopsis root rot, Ozonium root rot (in olden literature), Etc., It is a hazardous pathogen. You can commonly find it in the southwestern US, some parts of south-central US, and Mexico regions.

Generally, Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) causes wilt and ruins affected plants, particularly during the summer months. This soil-borne fungus (Phymatotrichopsis omnivore) directly attacks the roots of the vulnerable plants.

This disease has affected more than 2,300 species of healthy plants and ruined them.

Generally, this fungus spreads from infected trees to other healthy trees across the garden. Hence, controlling this disease is an extremely difficult task.

Normally, this Fungai mostly targets dicots (dicotyledons) as they are more vulnerable to soil-borne fungus and other diseases.

Generally, monocots (Monocotyledons) have high immunity and can survive this disease.

Favorable Environment (Texas Root Rot)

Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) prefers to thrive in humid and hot weather conditions. It is because this disease can infest more vigorously under these conditions.

During this type of environmental condition, the plants become more dependent on their roots for essential water and nutrients. Thus, this disease can infest the whole plant quickly through the roots.

Moreover, this fungus prefers alkane calcareous soils. It is because this type of soil rarely freezes and also can survive cold weather radially. It is also known to retain warmth to some extent.

Due to the above facts, this disease is largely restricted to southwest US regions.

Infecting methods

When the plants suck water and other nutrients, this fungus enters the trees through its roots.

Using infectious hyphae, this fungus covers the epidermis of the plants and infects them. Then, it infects the vascular systems. It also neutralizes the defense systems and infects the whole tree. Ultimately, the infected trees die with no option to resist.

Identification of Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot)

Normally, you can find the symptoms during warmer months especially from June to September. During this period, the soil temperature rises more than average. In addition, the air temperature also exceeds 100-degree Fahrenheit.

At the initial stages of infection, the upper leaves of the tree die, followed by lower leaves. Simply speaking, the leaves turn brown and remain sticking to the plants.

It looks the tree is suffering from water stress. But in fact, the Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) disease is at the initial stages. After that, the tree starts wilting, loses shine, and finally dies.

Mostly, you can find the decayed roots with a blurry tan-colored mold covering them. You can also easily peel off the barks. Upon doing so, you can find the inner white woody tissue showing a reddish-brown stain. You can also see white spore mats on affected trees often.

If you examine further, you can find extensive discoloration of the host plant’s vascular system. There will be more observable signs under the soil, especially on the roots.

If you examine the root structure with a microscope, you can find Distinct cuniform branched hyphae on infected roots. In addition, you can find mycelial strands covering the taproots.

After the trees die, Sometimes, white spore mats develop on the surrounding soil too. These white spores slowly turn tan. Finally, they disappear after a few days, without further spreading. This is the unique feature of the Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) disease.

The Lifespan of the Disease

The life span of the Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) inside the soil is almost indefinite.

The corresponding fungus creates sclerotia (tiny resting structures) inside the soil. Thus, the disease shelters inside the soil. Some soil experts found these seed-like structures as deep as 12 feet inside the soil.

The sclerotia germinate radially when the soil temperature rises above average, thereby infecting the plant roots in the vicinity. After that, the infected roots transmit the disease to other plants’ healthy roots upon contact. In this way, the disease spreads abruptly.

This disease also survives in some native vegetation roots like mesquite roots. Therefore, they can spread across the area vigorously.

Treating Cotton Root Rot (Texas Root Rot)

Most soil-borne fungus diseases are very difficult to control, especially, Cotton Root rot (Texas root rot).

Generally, there are some methods available to reduce the intensity or severity of the disease. But none of them are proven to be highly effective.

Cutting the Infected Portion

If you find the disease at the initial stages itself, cut the top growth of the tree by almost half. After that, keep the affected tree moist for some weeks.

In this method, you can technically reduce the stress on the tree roots. So, there is a chance that the roots fight back the disease and attain normal growth once again.

Treating the Soil

You also try your luck by changing the alkaline properties of the soil. This may not work every time.

Along the drip line, form soil ridge. Dripline is the approximate root extension of the tree. It is approximately the same as the spread of the tree.

Fill the inner ridge with raw cow manure or other organic matter for about 1-2 inches deep.

Also, mix sulfur and ammonium sulfate at a proportion of 1 pound every 10 square feet individually to the inner dripline basin. This helps to change the alkaline properties of the soil to a greater extent.

After that, flood the basin with water so as to soak the soil minimum of 3 feet deep.

Repeat this procedure every year. Otherwise, the soil may return to its original alkaline state, thereby catering to the deadly disease.

Amending the soil with Chemicals

You can also try amending the soil with chemicals, thereby increasing soil microbes.

Add some organic matter or green manure to the soil. This will increase the count of the soil microbes. They can effectively compete or sometimes even neutralize soil fungus.

In addition, some studies indicate the green manure decomposes and releases chemicals into the soil. These chemical compounds can inhibit soil fungus.

The next reason for preferring this method is, the tree roots grow vigorously and healthy in manure-rich soil. This growth, in addition to health, will help resist the fungal disease to some extent.

This method is often proved a success in resisting some other fungal-infested soil diseases also.

Plowing the Surface

Try plowing 6-8 inches deep. In this method, you can destroy the fungus in the upper layer of the soil. Most plants and some trees spread their roots in the upper layer of the soil. So, this method can prove to be effective for such plants.

But there are some plants and trees which grow roots deeper and deeper. If the disease survives in lower layers of soil, it can affect such roots. This method may not be much effective for such trees.

Planting Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) in the Infected soil

If your soil is already affected and you have lost some of your trees, do not replant them in the same spot. This disease can survive in the soil almost indefinitely.

So, consider planting some plants which can resist Cotton Root rot (Texas Root Rot) disease. For Instance, Monocots (grasses) are known for their resistant characteristics against this fungus.

Economic losses Due to this Fungai

This pathogen has adversely affected the economies of many countries including the US.

For instance, the cotton industry suffered a huge loss amounting to $100 million annually in the previous years. You can find this data in the National Cotton Council of America’s database.

This disease can also cause a substantial yield loss in horticultural crops such as ornamental trees, apples, peaches, peanuts Etc.

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All about Aphids!

2021-03-24T11:24:00.009-07:00

Aphids

The Aphids are members of the Aphidoidea family. They are basically sap-sucking insects. These insects have different names including greenfly and black fly. About 5,000 species of aphids have been described till now in Aphididae family.

Reproduction

The flightless female aphids give birth to small female nymphs, which may also be pregnant. These nymphs mature rapidly and give birth profoundly. Thus, they grow in large numbers. All this happens without the involvement of males. This process is called telescopic development.

Later in the season, these females may develop wings to colonize new plants. However, reproduction occurs sexually also in temperate regions during autumn.

Species of Aphids

There are about 5,000 species of aphids in the family Aphididae. Among them, 400 species are known to feed on food and fiber crops. Damaging the crops seriously, some species feed on a single type of plant while most of them feed on several types of plants.

In addition to sucking the sap out, they act as vectors for several types of plant viruses. Aphids are known to deposit honeydews on the plants they feed on. Subsequently, sooty molds grow on foliage.

The dairying ants feed on these honeydew deposits and protect aphids from predators.

Characteristics

Aphids mostly measure under 1/4 inch. So, they are nearly invisible to bare eyes. They may have different colors including white, black, grey, pink, brown, and even pink!

They have pear-shaped bodies. Some species of aphids may also have waxy or woolly coatings on their bodies. They usually have two long antennae in front and two short tubes called cornicles at back. Their mouthparts have special needle-like structures to force suck the sap from the plants.

Generally, they colonize plants in large numbers. It is very rare to see them singly or as a small group.

Aphid Damage

Most species of aphids, readily infect succulent fresh growth. Being said that, even healthy matured plants cannot escape aphids under favorable conditions. Aphids mostly hide the underside of the leaves. These pests inflict the most damage on plants in warm temperatures (65 – 80 F). In fact, these pests mostly infect plants in mid - late spring.

The infected foliage may shrivel, curl or decolor. Also, the infected parts may have honeydew’ stuck on them. This leads to the growth of a fungus called sooty mold that causes black formation.

The infected flowers and fruits distort and deform, thereby losing their flavor. Some species can damage roots too! The infected plants may attract other harmful viruses that may kill the plant by causing deadly diseases.

Treating Aphids

You can control these pests with natural or organic methods instead of chemicals. Some insects and birds are known predators of these insects. Since they tend to move slowly, you can remove them by hand too.

These insects are known for their prolific multiplication. Hence, you may have to try different methods to control them which may take time. So, until you see the results, you have to be patient!

You can just remove them with hands wearing gloves if they are less in numbers. Alternatively, you can just cut off the affected portions from plants. Either way, put the Aphids or cut out infected portions in soapy water contained bucket. In this way, you can completely destroy these pests.

In the initial stages of infection, you can use pressure water from hoses to blast Aphids off the plants. You can practice this method in matured plants and not in tender seedlings.

Plants that Keep Aphids Away

By nature, some plants can attract beneficial insects that can eat away aphids and some other plant pests. Some plants are known to repel these pests. Similarly, some variety of plants can lure Aphids so that your target plant is protected.

Plants attracting beneficial insects - Dill, fennel, mint, clover, yarrow

Aphid repellent plants – Garlic, allium, onion, chives, catnip

Plants luring Aphids – Nasturtium, Zinnias, asters, mustard, cosmos, dahlias

Natural Predators

Lady beetles

This method is effective, particularly during a heavy Aphid infection. But this may also be time-consuming.

Purchase lady beetles from nurseries and release them during cooler parts of the day (early morning or evening). Before that mist the plants. This helps the beetles to halt for drinking water as most of them fly away within a few days.

The remaining beetles feed on the Aphids, mate readily and lay eggs. The resulting larvae are more ferocious predators of these pests than the adults.

As the beetle population decreases, repeat the application a few times more until the pests are completely gone.

Green lacewings

Green lacewings larvae can further accelerate the process of removing aphids. They too are known predators of plant pests including Aphids. You can purchase them online or at local nurseries.

Birds

You can attract bug-eating birds such as wrens or chickadees to get rid of Aphids. Install birdbaths or provide birdhouses to them. Or grow small trees and shrubs so that they can build their nests.

Organic Methods

Insecticidal soap solution

You can prepare insecticidal soap solutions at home easily. Just mix pure liquid soap such as Castile (one tablespoon) in water (per quart). For maximum effectiveness, use as quickly as possible after preparing the solution.

Avoid using detergents that contain harmful chemicals. They may be dangerous to your plants. Also, hard water decreases the effectiveness. So, use soft water for preparing the solution.

Spray the solution on infected parts thoroughly. It dissolves the outer cover protection of soft-bodied insects like Aphids and kill them. But it is not dangerous to beneficial insects (they have hard bodies) and birds.

Neem oil

Neem oil effectively controls pests and other harmful viruses. However, it may repel garden-friendly beneficial insects also. Hence, practice caution while spraying neem oils.

Root Aphids

Mostly, root aphids attack indoor plants. They do attack outdoor plants too! You can identify the infection by common signs like curled or yellowed leaves. The infected plants become vulnerable to other harmful diseases like root rots.

In addition to common aphid treatments, the introduction of beneficial nematodes is also essential to the infected soils. These nematodes protect plants from various soil-borne pests including root Aphids. However. They will not harm beneficial invertebrates like earthworms.

You have to careful while working with infected plants. The infection spreads easily when the infected soil is transmitted to other areas through shoe soles or hand drops.

Preventing Aphids

Most pests including Aphids love to settle on some type of weeds like sowthistle. Hence, remove the weeds regularly. Over-fertilizing causes excess nitrogen, which promotes leafy growth in plants. Aphids love to feed on this type of foliage. So, only use slow-release fertilizers or organic matter to feed your plants.

Protect young plants with floating row covers. Prune matured plants on recommended seasons (not before). While doing so, remove and dispose of the infected parts immediately.

In addition, rake your gardens periodically and dispose of the debris completely. These steps help to prevent Aphids and other pets to a large extent.

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How to Grow Tomatillos in Gardens

2021-03-18T09:40:00.006-07:00

Tomatillo Plants

Tomatillo, in Spanish, means little tomato. They both are different fruits. Tomatillo is also known as tomate verde (green tomato) and Mexican husk tomato.

These plants are a member of the nightshade (Solanaceae) family. Tomatoes and peppers are also members of this family. Almost all the members of this family develop the same kind of flowers.

Tomatillos are native to Mexico. The growers in Mexico have been cultivating this crop right from the pre-Columbian days. Tomatillos are stable foods in Mexico. Mexicans eat them raw or cook them.

History and Distribution

The scientists discovered ancient fossil tomatillo in the Patagonian region of Argentina dating back to 52 million years BP in 2017. Playing important roles in Mayan and Aztec cultures, these plants domesticated in Mexico before the arrival of Europeans.

Except for the far north, tomatillo and related plants grow abundantly in the entire American continent. Mexico has the most density of these plants particularly in Hidalgo and Morelos states and also in the highlands of Guatemala.

In the United States, these plants are discovered to be cultivated since 1863 and sold commercially under various names like Mayan husk tomato, and jamberry.

The distribution of these plants further extends to Jamaica, Puerto Rico, the Bahamas, and the plains of Florida. By the middle of the 20^th century, the Americans started exporting these plants to South Africa, Australia, India, and Kenya.

Description

The tomatillo plants grow about 15 – 60cm tall. The stems have a few hairs on them. They usually grow in a compact, upright manner. Sometimes they may prostrate too with less densely populated canopies.

The leaves are broad and serrated. Mostly the leaves are smooth. But you can find them with hairs (pubescent) in some locations. The flower can have different colors including white, light green, purple or yellow. The color of the anthers too can vary from pale blue to dark purple.

For successful pollination, the involvement of more than two plants is essential. This is because the isolated plants rarely set fruit being self-incompatible.

The husk is developed from the calyx. This inedible husk covers the tomatillos. The fruits fill the husk with time and split open it. As the fruits ripen, the husk turns brown from green. The freshness and greenness of husk are among the quality criteria of tomatillos. The matured fruits may have different colors ranging from yellow, green purple, or pink.

Varieties

Depending on tastes, traits, and ripening colors, there are numerous varieties available in commercial markets.

Toma Verde – produces golf ball-sized green fruit

Grande Rio Verde – Produces larger (2-3”) sweeter fruits.

Amarylla - produces sweeter yellow fruits. This variety does well in northern zones.

In addition, there are many common varieties like purples, Cisineros, Verde Puebla, Pineapple, Etc., which can be found most widely in the markets.

Propagation

Generally, the tomatillos grow well under full sun. so, select a sunny location. Work the soil well with compost (at least 2 inches) before planting. The ideal soil pH is around 7. To improve the drainage facilities, you can aerate the soil if required. These plants can tolerate droughts for a short period. Humidity levels are not the general concerning factors.

Seeds

You can easily purchase tomatillo seeds online or from local garden centers. Start this process indoors, at least 2 months before the expected last frost date.

Sprinkle the seeds on the pot surface randomly. They require light for germination. so, just cover them slightly with soil and water minimally. You can expect the seeds to germinate within a week. The true leaves may develop shortly after that.

Wait till the frost is over. Then harden the seedlings gradually for about 7 – 10 days before transplanting them.

Cuttings

This is proved to be one of the successful methods of propagating tomatillos. From a healthy plant, cut out about 6-inches of the stem. Remove the leaves from the bottom portion and dip the bottom end in a rooting hormone.

Then plant it in a container. Maintain the soil moist by watering regularly. When the cuttings are rooted and fresh leaves grow, transplant the seedlings carefully in the gardens.

Pollination

Tomatillos are not self-pollinating plants. For effective fruiting, you need to grow them in groups. These plants can attract bees and other pollinators with their bright yellow flowers.

However, growing companion plants like nasturtium, marigold, etc., attracts more pollinators. This is useful for effective pollination. As a result, the yield can be increased many folds.

Caring Tomatillo Plants

Tomatillos are drought-tolerant plants. Still, watering them an inch every week is necessary to ensure their healthy growth. Fertilizing is not enquired during the growth cycle of these plants. However, working the soil with organic matter before planting is preferred.

Use organic mulch to control the weeds. It also helps to preserve soil moisture. The sprawling branches may need your support. So, installing stakes or cages may be required as the plants (branches) grow.

Harvest and Storage

The time taken from propagation to fruiting is about 2 -3 months. When the fruits are under ripened, they are small and hard. The husks are airy and loose.

When the fruits are over-ripened, they turn yellow. They develop large seeds and lose flavor.

The right time to harvest is when the fruits fill the husk. At this point, they soften a bit with small seeds and have their best flavor. The husks begin to dry and split.

You can simply store them in cool, dark locations for about a week at room temperatures. If you wish to extend their shelf life by about 2 -3 weeks, wrap them in paper bags, and store them in the crisper box of your refrigerator.

Peel the husks just before consumption. Wash the fruits in running water to remove the residual liquids sticking on their surface before using them.

Uses

You can eat these fruits raw or use them in dishes. Most green sauces in America and Mexican foods have tomatillos as their main ingredients. The unusual flavor and green color are the main contributions of this fruit in culinary.

Most people use these fruits in salads, soups, stews, and curries. You can also cook them with meats and desserts. The sweet flavor of red/purple varieties is used in jams. These fruits are rich in pectin. So, they are also used to thicken jellies and jams.

The flavor of these fruits is used to blend the flavor of Latin American dishes' infusion cuisines.

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Growing Purslane Plant (Portulaca oleracea) in Gardens

2021-03-14T09:10:00.002-07:00

Purslaneplant (Portulaca oleracea)

The Purslane plant (Portulaca oleracea) is known in many names including little hogweed, common purslane, parsley, and duckweed. These plants have a close association with humans throughout history. Hence, they have thousands of names around the world in different languages.

In fact, Purslane plant is a succulent growing annually. It belongs to the family Portulacaceae. Oleracea is a Latin name meaning Herb/Vegetable and also a form of holeraceus (oleraceus).

Purslane plants are rich in minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants. These nutritional powerhouses have about seven times more beta carotene than carrots. You can consume them raw or cook them in a variety of dishes. In the US, most restaurants serve purslane foods.

Contrastingly, the United States Department of Agriculture sees these plants as noxious weeds. Therefore, the cultivation of Purslane plants (Portulaca oleracea) is limited or restricted in some regions.

Distribution

Due to human impact or anthropogenic, you can find these plants naturalized in most parts of the world. They are distributed abundantly from Northern African regions to the south European lands. Purslane is considered to be indigenous to these regions.

Their distribution further extends to Australia through the middle east, the Indian subcontinent, and Malaysia.

The Crawford Lake deposits contain species of these plants that exist from pre-Columbian periods. There are also pieces of evidence of native Americans consuming and foraging these plants. However, the data on the entry of these plants into America and the species status of these plants in America Etc., are not clear.

Description

Purslane plants (Portulaca oleracea) grow about 40 cm in height. The reddish smooth stems tend to grow in a prostrating manner. The green leaves develop in clusters and are arranged in alternate or opposite fashions.

Depending on the rain, the 6 mm yellow blooms may develop at any time during the year. The flowers open individually for a couple of hours or more in the sunny mornings.

Tiny seeds are developed inside the pods. The pods break open when the seeds in them mature. The secondary fibrous roots (developed on taproots) help the purslane to survive in droughts and poor soils.

Propagation

Purslane plants thrive well in locations that receive part to full sunlight. They prefer to grow in drier types of soils (pH 6.0 – 6.5). USDA recommends zone 8 to grow these plants.

You can grow these plants from seeds, stem cuttings, divisions, or transplantations.

Seeds

The Purslane plant (Portulaca oleracea) seeds are easily available online for purchase. These plants can develop over 50,000 seeds in the course of their lifetime. So, there will be no necessity of purchasing the seeds again ideally.

You can start this process after the frost, when the soil temperatures rise above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Just sprinkle the seeds on the moist soil and leave them uncovered or barely covered. New seedlings will emerge within 7 -10 days’ time. Make sure to thin them about 8 inches after they develop a set of true leaves.

Alternatively, you can start the process indoors at least 3 weeks prior to the last frost date. Just sprinkle the seeds on a pot that is filled with potting mixture.

After the last frost date is passed away and a set of true leaves are developed, start hardening them gradually for a week. Then, you can transplant them into the outdoor spaces.

Stem cuttings

This is one of the safest and efficient method of propagating purslane plant (Portulaca oleracea).

Select a healthy plant and cut off a stem about 6 inches from the top. After removing the leaves and other debris from the bottom half, gently dip the cutting end in the powdered rooting hormone.

Then, plant the stem cutting in a container filled with potting soil. Place this container in indirect sunlight. Water the plant and maintain the moisture. Avoid over-watering. otherwise, the resultant waterlogging can damage the plants by inviting pests and diseases.

Under normal circumstances, the cuttings would root within a couple of weeks. After that, transplant the cuttings carefully.

Nursery plants

The easiest way to grow purslane is to purchase it from the nursery and transplant it outdoors.

Dig out the entire plant from the package. In the garden, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root ball of the plant. Place the plant in the dug hole in an upright position and cover it with soil.

Maintain the soil in moist to dry condition. You can find the plant to be replenished with new energy and fresh growth in just a few days’ time!

Caring

Purslane plants (Portulaca oleracea) do well in temperatures more than 70°F. They can thrive well even when the temperatures exceed 100°F. However, these plants bloom well under partial shades.

Fertilizing is not essential. Just maintain the water moisture evenly for leafier growth. Mulching keeps the vigorous growth of the plant under check.

Purslane Microgreens

Purslane microgreens are delicious to consume. They are tarty and juicy. It is easy to grow them indoors.

In a seed tray, fill potting mixture and sprinkle the purslane seeds gently. Press them inwards and keep the tray in a space that receives indirect sunlight. These microgreens grow better in spaces that have temperatures above 75°F. You can also use heat mats to keep the arrangement warm.

Maintain the soil moisture by watering regularly. The seeds sprout out in about a week. Then, the first leaves develop in about 2 – 3 weeks. You can pick them right away and consume them.

Harvest

From seeds, purslane plants require about 2 months to develop the matured succulent leaves. Under ideal conditions, they can be harvested about three times a year.

While harvesting, cut the plant out leaving below about 2 inches of stems at the base. This enables them to regrow quickly. Make sure to place the harvested yield immediately in a cool space.

Preservation

You can increase the shelf life of the harvested plants by preserving them in the refrigerator. Just wrap them in a cotton cloth or plastic bags without washing them. Then refrigerate them in a crisper box and use them as needed for about 1 - 2 weeks.

You can also dry them in dehydrators. Just spread the leaves in a cookie sheet and heat them in dehydrators (135°F setting). Take them out after they become brittle.

You can use them in your daily cooking. Dried purslane can act as thickening agents in soups and other liquid foods. They can also be used in powdered form for flavoring foods.

Nutrition

Generally, purslane plants are rich in Vitamin A, Vitamin C, magnesium, iron, and potassium. Moreover, these plants also contain alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and gamma-linolenic acid (LNA) omega 3 fatty acids that are found in fish.

CAUTION

If you have purchased purslanes, be aware that they may have been grown by spraying chemicals. These types of plants are not suitable for consuming or foraging.

Uses of purslane plant

The Purslane plant (Portulaca oleracea) is used in various medical applications. It is an effective caffeine antidote, Insulin Booster, and also an immune booster. Purslane reduces arrhythmia risk and lowers blood pressure. It is used to treat skin irritations, asthma, headache, wounds Etc.

You can use purslane in salads, stir-fries, soups, or cook as vegetables like spinach. You can also pickle purslanes and use them as side foods.

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Growing Asparagus Fern in Gardens.

2021-03-10T06:48:00.005-08:00

Asparagus Fern

Asparagus fern is a common name given to some plants in the genus Asparagus. Some of the varieties of those plants include A. aethiopicus, A. densiflorus, A. plumosus, A. setaceus, A.virgatus

In fact, Asparagus fern is biologically, not a fern. These plants set seeds and have cladodes. They also have dual growing characteristics. They grow aggressively in USDA Zones 9 to 11 and restrictedly in pots.

These plants are native to southern African lands. They are toxic to humans and animals. Particularly, children must not be allowed to gain access near these plants.

Characteristics

The US Traders largely sold Asparagus fern plants commercially in the latter part of the nineteenth century. A. retrofractus, A. setaceus and A. densiflorus are the most commonly sold Asparagus fern varieties. Some other varieties like A. africanus and A. racemosus can be found growing vigorously in the wild.

Normally, these plants grow like shrubs in upward fashions with layer upon layer of delicate stems. The flowers are white and the berries are usually orange or red in color that turns into blackish-purple upon maturing. You can find well-developed seeds inside these matured berries that can be collected and stored for future use.

These are biologically dioecious plants. Both female and male plants bloom respectively. But, only the female plants fruit. Unless fruits develop, you cannot differentiate female and male plants visually while purchasing.

These plants grow on an average of 3 feet in height and 3 feet breadth. They can live up to 10 years or more depending on the nature of caring.

Propagation

If you live in USDA Zones 9 or higher, you can grow Asparagus fern as a perennial plant in your outdoor spaces. If you live in other zones, you can grow them completely indoors or as annual plants in your outdoor spaces.

Although they can tolerate a little amount of sunlight, grow them in dappled shades. Avoid exposing them to direct, bright sunlight, as it can damage the plant in the initial stages.

These plants thrive well in mild warm temperatures about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they cannot tolerate temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for prolonged periods.

If you prefer to grow them indoors, use good quality, loose and well-draining potting soil mix. If you plan to grow them outdoors, use slightly acidic, rich, well-draining soils. You can expect these plants to grow in less-than-ideal soils also.

Seeds

The Asparagus fern seeds are easily available online for purchase. You can also use your own seeds for propagation. This method may be challenging, as each berry has only about 1- 3 seeds and germination is not 100 % guaranteed.

Weaken the hard outer shells by scrapping them and soaking them in water overnight. In Zones 9 – 11, plant them outdoors directly. In other zones, start by planting them in seed starter trays.

Moist the soil by pouring water. Place the seeds on the surface. Then, press the seeds down gently about 1/4 ‘’ deep and cover the soil barely. Be aware, they need light to germinate!

Apply water regularly and maintain the soil moist. Do not let the soil dry. In this way, you can expect germination in about 4 – 8 weeks.

Division

This is the fast, easy and successful method of propagation for Asparagus fern plants. Start division in spring.

Dig out the entire healthy Asparagus fern plant. Remove the infected parts in the roots and divide them into sections with growing shoots.

Plant the sections into containers or in locations that have shades. Maintain the soil moist but not soggy by watering appropriately.

Caring Asparagus Fern plants

Water the plants every day and maintain soil moisture. Asparagus Fern prefers to grow in warm, humid conditions.

Fertilize the plants with all-purpose fertilizer as required. During the growing periods, feed them more and gradually lessen the feeding as winter approaches.

Spring is the ideal season for pruning. Prune the decayed/decolored parts from the base. Remove the dead woods, spent blooms, and other debris regularly. This increases the flow of air and prevents plant diseases.

Other Tips

Container Gardens:

The Asparagus Fern plants grow vigorously. Hence, their roots may pinch out through thin plastic plant pots. To avoid this scenario, grow them in large study planting pots that have good drainage outlets.

You can also start growing them in small pots and transplant them into large containers as they grow. In this method, the plants may have to bear transplant stress that can be risky.

Berries:

When your plants have berries, wait until they decay. Then, pluck them off and remove the outer pulp. Store the seeds in cool, dry, and dark locations.

Make sure to keep the seeds and berries out of pets and children.

Pests and Diseases

The growing environment of Asparagus Fern plants like wet conditions, indirect lighting Etc., attracts various pests and diseases.

Asparagus beetles, mealy bugs, aphids, spider mites, whiteflies Etc., often infect Asparagus Fern. Slugs and snails also may trouble this plant due to wet conditions.

These pests chew foliage or suck out the sap, causing infected parts to shrivel and die ultimately.

Diatomaceous Earth can kill snails and slugs effectively. You can also use insecticidal soaps or neem oils to treat most of the other pests.

Asparagus Rust, cercospora blight, phytophthora crown, fusarium wilt, and spear rot are some of the diseases that can infect these plants. Treat them with chemicals as organic means are not effective. If the problems persist, just remove and destroy the infected plants immediately.

Cultivars

A. Densiflorus – Myeri (foxtail fern)

You can find various variations of this cultivar while shopping such as Myersii, Myers, Etc. These plants grow 2 feet in height and 3 feet wide

The conical shaped stems resemble pine needles. They are tightly packed with flattened stem portions called cladodes. The blooming season of these plants is during the summer. You can expect the berries to form in the fall following the blooms in summer.

Asparagus Densiflorus – Sprengeri (Emerald Fern)

These plants have mounding character. They grow around 2 feet in height and 3 feet wide. The stems resemble small pine needles and are loosely packed with leaves. They flower in summer and fruit in fall followingly.

Asparagus Setaceus

A. setaceus is also called as Protasparagus setaceus or A. plumosus. In appearance, these plants typically resemble fern.

The attractive twisting climbing stems are adorned with minute soft needles. These stems grow longer with age. Pruning helps them to grow denser.

Toxicity

The Asparagus Fern plants are toxic to both pets and human (especially children)

In human, the sap contact may result in skin irritation and dermatitis. The mechanical injuries arising due to ‘prickles may cause uncomfortableness.

In pets, due to dermal exposure, it causes Allergic dermatitis. If the pets swallow berries, they may most likely be affected by gastric problems like vomiting, abdominal pain, Etc.

Uses

The Asparagus Fern plants are used primarily as filler plants in summer mixed flower gardens. You can grow them in all sorts of planters including hanging baskets and wall boxes.

They can also be simply trailed across shelves or accent tables to decorate boring spaces. You can grow them with combination plants like tuberous begonias.

In fact, the Asparagus species are known for their biological properties. For instance, they have one of the best antibacterial, antioxidant, antihepatotoxic, and immunostimulant properties compare to most herbs.

A. laricinu Burch s, A.densiflorus (Kunth) Jessop, A. africanus Lam., A. officinalis L. and A. racemosus have scientifically proven their anticancer properties.

Asparagus Fern plants are also used to cure dysentery, diarrhea, urination problems, skin diseases, pulmonary infections, and andrology and gynecology problems.

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Growing Blue Balloon Flower (Platycodon Grandiflorus) Plants in Gardens

2021-03-05T21:04:00.006-08:00

Blue Balloon Flower

Platycodon grandifloras (blue balloon flower) is a species of herbaceous flowering perennial plant (Campanulaceae family). It is also a lone member of the genus Platycodon. These plants are native to east Asia (the Russian Far East, Korea, Japan, China)

These plants are commonly called balloon flower plants, referring to their beautiful balloon-shaped flower buds.

These are easy to grow, hardy, and disease-resistant plants. They grow in clumps and are perfectly fitted for border plantations. You can find them in gardens all over the world including the USA.

Description H2:

In general, the Platycodon Grandiflorus (blue balloon flower) plants grow about 60 cm (24 in) tall and spread about 30 cm (12 in). The lance-shaped thick leaves have serrated margins and are dark green in color.

These plants bloom in summer. The swollen flowers buds resemble small balloons in shape. They form beautiful blue flowers which measure about 2-3 inches across. The colors may vary depending on the environment from bluish shades to pinkish ones. The prominent veils in petals are sometimes visible to the eyes.

When handled carelessly, the fleshy taproots are susceptible to damages.

The original botanical species are found to grow in excess of 36 inches tall and more than 18 inches wide, in native wildlands.

There are different varieties of cultivated blue balloon flower plants available in commercial markets. The dwarf varieties grow 4-6 inches in height and equally wide. The medium-sized plants grow 12 -18 inches in height and equally wide.

Propagation h2:

Generally, these plants thrive well under full sun. But they require part shades during hot afternoons. When exposed to direct sunlight (at least 6 hours) on most days, they bloom more flowers.

Through the ideal temperature range is about 60 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit, these perennials can withstand higher temperatures when provided with sufficient afternoon shades. USDA recommends zones 3 – 8 to grow these plants.

The young plants die readily in frosts. Even the established ones’ dieback and fall on the ground under severe frosts.

These hardy plants thrive well in organically rich, well-draining, moderately moist loamy soils. The ideal soil pH is about 5.5 – 7.5. These plants can also tolerate high humid and dry air environments when soil moisture is rightly maintained.

From seeds

At least a couple of months prior to the last frost date, sow the seeds indoors in a container filled with seed starter mix or normal potting soil. Cover the seeds about 1/16 inch of soil barely. Platycodon seeds need light to germinate.

Then, place the container carefully in a warm space. Maintain the moisture of the soil by watering regularly. But avoid overwatering. You can expect germination within a few weeks.

After the dangers of frost is passed and seedlings have developed at least 2 sets of true leaves, harden them off for at least 5 days. Then transplant them in gardens carefully, without damaging the fragile roots.

You can also plant seeds directly in gardens after the frost. But the plants may not bloom until the second year.

Nursey Grown plants

You can easily purchase nursery-grown plants from the garden centers nearby. If you prefer your plants to bloom in the first year, transplant them in early spring. You can also transplant them almost anytime throughout the growing period. but they may not bloom in the first year.

Dig a hole with the same depth and width as the root ball. Remove the plants carefully from pots without damaging the fragile roots. Plant them carefully in the holes. Water the plants and maintain the soil moist.

From cuttings

Start this process in early spring. Cut about four inches of stem from matured plants. Pinch off the foliage from the bottom portion of the cutting. Then, dip the end portion in a good quality rooting hormone and plant it in a container filled with potting medium.

Water as needed and maintain the soil moist. The cuttings will root in a few weeks’ time. After that, transplant them in the gardens.

Caring blue balloon flower Plants H2

Blue balloon flower plants are one of the easy maintenance plants. They even do not require regular intervention after establishing themselves.

When the plants are young, maintain the soil moisture by watering as needed regularly. You can also use mulch to retain moisture. The established plants do not require frequent watering except on long dry spells.

Unless the soil is poor, fertilizing is not needed. However, feeding the plants with compost after the growing season replenishes energy in them.

If you prefer compact and bushy growth, simply cut the stems by half in spring. Avoid disrupting emerging stems. To make the airflow better, remove the dead stems, withered foliage, and other debris in the fall.

By deadheading the spent blooms, you can prevent self-sowing. Another option is to remove the stem itself that has spent blooms. You can also dry the removed stems to collect the seeds. As most of these plants are hybrids, the new plants propagated from seeds may not have the same characteristics as that of the parent.

Cultivars H2

Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series

These dwarf, compact plants have double rows of white, pink, or blue petals in flowers. Seed propagation is best suited for this variety.

Platycodon grandiflorus Fuji series

These are tall plants with 30-inch stems. You can find them commonly in almost all garden centers. They have deep blue, light pink, or creamy white flowers.

Platycodon grandiflorus 'Komachi'

This compact plant grows about 18 inches tall. The bell-shaped flowers of this plant have exotic baby blue colors. They look like tiny colorful umbrellas in top view. The eye-catching display of these flowers makes them an excellent choice for vase flower arrangements.

Platycodon grandiflorus 'Sentimental Blue'

This is another popular dwarf variety of balloon flower plants. These plants grow about 6 -12 inches tall and 12 -18 inches wide.

The flowers are purplish in color and measure about 2 -3 inches in diameter. These low-profile plants suit well for borders and edges.

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Growing Spearmint in Gardens

2021-02-25T21:51:00.005-08:00

Spearmint

Spearmint plant is native to Europe and southern temperate lands of Asia. It has many names including garden mint, common mint, mackerel mint, and lamb mint.

Nowadays, these trees have naturalized in most of the temperate regions on the planet including American and African continents.

The spearmint specie and subspecies have many synonyms including Mentha crispate, Mentha crispa and Mentha viridis.

The spearmint and its aromatic oils are used for flavoring food, herbal teas, and also as scenting liquids.

Description

The spearmint plant (Mentha spicata) is an herbaceous perennial plant. It grows about 30–100 cm tall. Its stems usually have a square-shape. In fact, it is a defining characteristic of mint family herbal plants. Sometimes, the stems also have hairs.

The leaves have a serrated margin. They measure about 5–9 cm in length and 1.5–3 cm in breadth. These dimensions vary depending on the environmental condition even from plant to plant. The plant derives its name from the pointed leaf tips.

These plants bloom in summer. The flowers usually grow in slender spikes. They measure about 2.5–3 mm in length and breadth. The seeds of this plant usually measure 0.62–0.90 mm.

History

The mentions of spearmint plant dated back to the early 1st century AD. The Bible and the notes of Pliny (naturalist) refer to this herb in various chapters. The ancient mythology scripts also confirm the usage of these herbs. As confirmed by modern studies, the use of these herbs became widespread domesticated by 14^th century.

During 5^th century, the roman introduced these plants in England. Various botanists and herbalists of England including John Gerard have recommended spearmint for various medical ailments.

These herbs were introduced by the English colonists in North America. This plant functioned as an important cash crop during the American Revolution in Connecticut. Since mint tea was not taxed, it became popular among the general public.

Even today this herb serves as a valuable crop (commercially) in Washington, Idaho, and Oregon. spearmint plants have naturalized themselves almost everywhere in the USA.

Propagation

Although spearmint plants can tolerate partial shades, they thrive well under full sun. You can also grow them on bright window sills or under grow lights indoors.

Make sure to plant them in well-draining, moist and rich soil with a pH of about 6.0 – 7.5. If you opt to grow mint in pots, use a rich, organic soilless mixture. USDA recommends zones 4a – 11 to grow these plants as they cannot thrive in cold climates.

The spearmint is grown from stem cuttings, seeds, division, or layering methods.

Seed Propagation

You can grow spearmint plants easily from seeds. Start the sowing process after the risk of frost is passed or about eight weeks before the last frost date.

Sow the seeds about 1/4 inch deep in garden soil or starting mix and water thoroughly. Normally, mint seeds grow well in constantly warm (about 70 f) and moist soils. So, cover the sowed spot with a plastic bag or glass cloche.

You can expect germination in about a couple of weeks.

For indoor plants, harden them off gradually when they grow about 4-5 inches, before transplanting them in gardens.

Stem cuttings

In spring, Cut off the top stem portion, just below a set of leaf nodes from a matured plant. Then remove all leaves and other matters from the cutting’s bottom half.

Plant the cutting in a good quality seed starting mixture after dipping its bottom end in rooting hormone. The roots would form in about 2 -3 weeks. Then plant the cutting outdoors after hardening off.

Layering

This is one of the easiest methods of propagating spearmint. As long as you have frost-free weather (at least for two months ahead), you can layer all-around the year.

Select at least six inches long branch from a matured plant. Remove the leaves from the portion that is about to be layered underground. Then bury the trimmed portion keeping the branch attached to the parent.

You can also arrest the layered portion to prevent it from coming out of the soil by placing a rock on it or other similar arrangements.

Within a few weeks, the roots develop and new shoots emerge out of the soil. After that, you can dethatch the branch from the parent plant and dig out the newly formed shoots.

Transplant the new shoots in your garden and water them well.

Rooting

Spring and Autumn are considered as best seasons for rooting plants. However, you can root mint all year round

Just dig out a mint clump with a sharp spade and split it into six-inch-wide sections with garden knives. Trimming off the stem tops encourages fresh growth. Then replant the parent and rooted sections in individual holes.

Spearmint is a resilient plant. So, it just needs a small rooted portion with one or two stems attached to grow.

Growing

Spearmint demands plenty of water. Maintain the soil moist by watering at least 2-3 times a week. Avoid overwatering. You can also use natural mulches like compost or grass to retain the moisture level.

Generally, spearmint does not require fertilizer. However, amending the soil with well-rotten moisture every annum rejuvenates the growth.

Spearmint tends to spread faster. You can just pull the spreading plants up or install deep barriers to contain them effectively.

Pests and Diseases
SpiderMites, Loopers, FleaBeetles, Aphids, Cutworms, Thrips Etc., are some of the common pests that bother spearmint Plants

Anthracnose, Black Stem Rot, Mint rust, Powdery mildew, Septoria leaf spot, Verticillium wilt, Stem, and stolon canker Etc., are some of the diseases that commonly affect spearmint

Harvesting

If you want to produce mint oil, start harvesting in summer, just before the plant blooms. These herbs produce more oils in summer due to the heat stress.

If you determine to save seeds, allow the plants to bloom. From the blooms, you can gather seeds and store them.

Just pluck out the leaves and stems for domestic use, whenever needed.

Preservation

Just pack the mint leaves in normal plastic bags and store them in the refrigerator. This helps to extend the shelf life of spearmint to about 4 days.

Another way is to freeze the herb. Just wash it off thoroughly in running water and chop the leaves using sharp knives. Then place the ice cube trays and freeze them.

Drying is also a better way of preserving spearmint. Hang the bunches upside down or spread them across screens and place them in dark, cool areas. The mint leaves dry in a few days

Heating them in oven or food dehydrator at low-temperature settings can dry them in a few minutes.

Medical uses

Spearmint is used to treat various diseases in the medical field. They include digestive disorders, sore throat, colds, cramps, cancer, inflammation of the respiratory tract headaches and toothaches.

Some people around the world also use it as a stimulant, pain-killer, and germ-killer.

However, some studies indicate excessive consumption of mint tea can cause uterus disorders in women. It can also increase liver and kidney disorders. So, it is advisable to consult a certified medical practitioner before consumption.

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How to Grow Golden Zucchinis in Garden

2021-01-04T02:48:00.009-08:00

Golden Zucchinis

People have been cultivating Zucchinis since 5,500 BC. For decades, they are grown as backyard vegetables.

Yellow or golden zucchini is a modern hybrid. It is called Cucurbita pepo. You can harvest it in about 30 - 60 days, depending on the cultivar type you grow.

You can find “Goldfinger” “Golden Delight” and “Gold Rush,” cultivars radially available in the market.

Propagation and harvesting:

You can find seeds online. Purchase from a reputed vendor. You can also buy them from nurseries.

Sow the seeds in the garden beds. After germination, harvest the fruits when they become at least 6 inches long. Make sure to maintain the plant by feeding it with recommended fertilizers. Look out for pests and diseases

You can store the harvested zucchinis in refrigerators for up to 2 weeks.

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Growing Perennial Kale

2021-01-04T02:46:00.008-08:00

Perennial kale

Perennial kale is a cruciferous vegetable. It is easy to grow. It also requires very low maintenance. In general, it is a tough, tasty, and very productive plant.

There are many varieties of Perennial kale. Out of them, Daubenton kale (Brassica oleracea ramosa) and jersey kale (B. Oleracea Var. Longata) are very popular.

Perennial kale belongs to the Brassica oleracea species, which also contains many other common food cultivars like Brussels sprouts, collard greens, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Savoy cabbage, gai lan and kohlrabi,

Historically, these plants are believed to be cultivated since Roman times.

These plants can grow in a variety of soil types. It is hardy to zones 6-9 (USDA). Unlike other annual kales, these perennial varieties can live up to 5-6 years. Even their maintenance is very low. They grow quickly. But they are not considered invasive.

They can provide yield in winter also. Moreover, they are more delicious for consumption than annuals. In addition, they are rich in essential nutrients like vitamin C. For more detailed information, Click Here!

How to Grow Parrot Tulips in Gardens

2021-01-04T02:44:00.007-08:00

Parrot Tulips

Parrot tulips are beautiful ornamental plants. Many of its varieties have won prestigious awards as ornamental plants. For example, the apricot variety and Black variety of parrot tulips have won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
In general, the Parrot tulips have large flowers blooming on almost 18” stems. These beautiful flowers enhance the looks and values of the cut flower packages. They can also decorate your indoor and outdoor spaces with their natural and mesmerizing looks. In addition certain scented varieties like Tulip ‘Verona’, Tulip ‘Angelique’, Tulip ‘Ballerina’ etc., can fill the space around with their trademark fragrances too.
You can plant them in your boundaries for both beautiful looks as well as fragrance.
Propagation is normally through” bulbs”. Normally, these plants are easy to grow. But they need a little bit extra care than standard normal tulips

For more detailed information on parrot tulips, click here!

Asiatic Jasmine

2021-01-04T02:41:00.010-08:00

Asiatic Jasmine

Asiatic Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum) is famous for its ground-covering capabilities and fragrant flowers. However, this plant is not related to the common jasmine.

This plant is native to Korean and Japanese lands. In the USA, it is hardy to zones 7b – 10. It grows and spreads quickly. It also requires very low maintenance. As a ground cover, it can grow up to 18 inches in height and spread about 3 feet in breadth.

Its fragrant flowers are star-shaped, yellow to white-colored. They look almost similar to jasmine. They almost stop blooming in very hot temperatures. In cold winters, these plants go dormant.

They form an excellent addition to the hanging type of gardens and baskets. You can find more information like characteristics, propagation, varieties, and uses, Here!

How to Grow Wax Begonia Plants

2021-01-04T02:39:00.010-08:00

How to grow Wax Begonia

The wax Begonia plants are popular ever since British queen Victoria’s regime. There are more than 1800 species of these plants. The modern cultivars have more color choices than the older cultivars. They also can tolerate more hot temperatures.

You can use wax begonias as indoor plants as well as outdoor plants. In warmer climates, they thrive as perennial plants. But in cooler places, you can grow them as annual plants.

These plants go dormant or even die in frosts. However, if you overwinter them indoors and provide adequate warmth, they can thrive flawlessly. In this method, you can extend their blooming season too which is normally during the summer.

The height of a well-matured plant varies between six inches to two feet. They have beautiful glossy, oval-shaped leaves. Some verities have beautiful greyish foliage whereas others have green foliage.

The flowers are usually creamy white, light yellow of mild pink colored. Some varieties have a pleasant fragrance too.

These plants have a fibrous root system. They are mildly resistant to short drought periods. Wax Begonia is less troubled by pests and diseases.

You can grow them as bedding plants in your gardens or mass plant them to fill your empty spaces. The contrasting color combination of flowers and foliage is a treat to watch. They serve well in container gardens and hanging gardens.

For more detailed information like propagation, caring Etc., Click Here!

Growing Asian Pear Tree

2021-01-04T02:38:00.004-08:00

Asian pear trees

Most Gardeners including me, love to grow Asian pear trees. The dwarf varieties grow only about 3 – 6 meters tall. Hence, you can maintain them easily.

These trees always usually crop well. These delicious, crispy fruits are known for their sweetness. They have many names including apple pears and nashi pears.

These trees are native to East Asia. You can expect them to produce fruits after 4 -5 years. But they have very low-temperature requirements to produce fruits (500 hours or more). Once, this requirement is met, they will keep on producing fruits for about the next 20 years during seasons.

Planting

Asian pear trees love to grow in sunny locations. They need a well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH of about 6.5. These trees have a tendency to self-pollinate partially.

Still, it is best to facilitate cross-pollination by planting two Asian varieties nearby. They can also cross-pollinate with European varieties. In any case, make sure to plant both trees that have almost identical growing characteristics.

Caring

Asian pear trees require fruit thinning. It helps to deal with complications like small fruits, broken branches, reduced crops. Etc. Just snip off two or three big fruits in a cluster. That is more than enough!

Prune these trees at least once a year by 20%, particularly in winter. Remove the debris immediately. This facilitates adequate airflow. This also helps to prevent common diseases and pest infection.

Harvest

Mid to late August is the perfect time for harvesting. This time period may change a little bit depending on the variety. Unlike European varieties, Asian pears ripen fully on trees. They also bruise easily. So, handle them with care while harvesting.

After that, you can store them in refrigerators for up to 3 months. At room temperatures, they can withstand only about a week after which they start to decay.

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Growing Poinsettia Tree (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

2021-01-04T02:35:00.010-08:00

Poinsettia Tree

The poinsettia tree is a species from the Euphorbiaceae family. This tree is indigenous to Mexico and other Central American countries. In 1834, It is described as a new species by botanists.

This tree is named after Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US minister to Mexico. In the 1820s, he introduced the poinsettia tree to the USA.

wild poinsettia trees grow in the central American regions widely from Mexico to Guatemala. One population from Guerrero (Mexican) is believed to be the ancestor variety of the modern forms. These wild forms, however, face extreme fragmentation due to the human act of deforestation.

Ecke family commercially grows these plants. They serve about 70% of poinsettia demand in the US market and 50% of poinsettia demand in the world market.

Being shrubs, these trees can grow up to 4 meters. You can find them commonly in Christmas floral displays. They are well known for their fantastic red and green foliage combination.

They are not so toxic as coral trees. But their consumption could lead to nausea, diarrhea, vomiting, and other diseases

Poinsettia tree in the USA

Albert Ecke emigrated from Germany to the USA in 1900. He settled in Los Angeles. He opened anorchid and dairy in the Eagle Rock area. He grew poinsettia trees and sold them.

His son, Paul Ecke used grafting techniques to grow various cultivar types.

Paul Ecke Jr, his grandson succeeded in associating these trees with Christmas celebrations by promoting them in various television shows.

The Ecke family relocated to Encinitas (California) in 1923. They developed a method that facilitates the busy growth of the poinsettia tree. This helped them to attain almost a monopoly in the market.

However, this success did not last long. In the late1980s a university researcher named John Dole discovered the technique and published it. As a result, many local nurseries developed almost the same kind of poinsettias and the competition toughened.

Finally, the Ecke family stopped the poinsettia business. Until 2008, they contributed about 50% of their share in the world poinsettia market and 70% of the same in the domestic USA market

Description

In general, the poinsettia tree is also an herb that grows 0.6 – 4 meters tall. The length of its dark green leaves is about 2.8–6.3 inches. They also have dentate edges.

Naturally, the bracts have a flaming red color. Depending on cultivar variety, the bracts can have various colors including white, pink, and pale green. Though they look like flowers, they are leaves naturally.

This color is a result of photoperiodism. It required long dark nights as well as broad daylights to develop and enhance the color of the bracts.

The poinsettia flowers develop within cyathia and do not attract pollinators. However, the pollination process is not studied completely. Some sources indicate the occasional visits of small insects like wasps to these cyathia.

Propagation

In warm areas such as USDA Zones 10 and above, these trees can be grown as perennials. Just plant them directly in the gardens. They prefer warm outdoor environments.

In colder areas, it is advisable to grow them indoors as they cannot tolerate the frost.

Select a space that gets sunlight and afternoon shades. Amend the soil with a good quality organic compost.

Established plants

This method is known to be the easiest for propagating poinsettia tree. You can just purchase this tree online or at any nearby local nurseries. Then, you can collect the stems and seeds for additional planting.

Purchase poinsettia pot during Christmas. After celebrations, remove the wrappers. Water regularly and maintain the moisture.

In the spring, the cut off the tops of the stems about 8 inches. They can be used for replanting. Apply well-balanced fertilizer at least once a month.

In the summer, you can start the transplantation process. Dig a hole and plant the tree upright. Backfill the soil and water thoroughly.

Apply mulch for at least 2 -3 inches in the plant surroundings. Mulching prevents weed growth, retains moisture, and keeps the soil cool.

If you live in cold areas, it is advisable to grow the plants indoors in pots. Just make sure to add good quality potting soil. If you like to place them outdoors, make sure the outdoor temperature does not fall below 65 F. This may be possible in summers.

From cuttings

The propagation procedure is the same as mentioned above. Just dip the bottom end of the stems in powdered rooting Harmons before planting them.

From seeds

There are two ways to collect seeds. You can purchase them or you can harvest them. Purchasing is easy as the seeds are available in many online shops like Amazon or Walmart. You can also purchase them from leading nurseries.

If you want to harvest them yourselves, wait till the foliage begins to turn a brown color. Then, collect the seed pots and dry them. You can wrap the seed pods in paper bags for drying. When the pods open themselves after drying, you can collect the seeds from inside.

Sow the collected poinsettia seeds deep (one inch) in a pot filled with potting soil mixture. Make sure to plant every seed in a separate pot. Place the pot in a room which gets abundant indirect sunlight. Maintain the soil moisture by watering regularly.

Normally, the seedlings appear in about two weeks. After they firmly root and establish, transplant them during summer. Follow further procedures as stated above.

Caring

Apply a well-balanced fertilizer like NPK 12-12-12 or compost in the growing season. You can also apply repeatedly every month if the soil is of poor quality.

Water regularly to main the soil moisture. Avoid overwatering as it may cause several fungal diseases.

Cut off the unhealthy shoots during every growing season to facilitate new growth. Remove the weeds regularly. You can keep the weed growth under check by applying mulch around the plants. Mulching also helps to keep the soil warm during winters.

Uses

Poinsettia tree serves as a Christmas tree during Christmas celebrations. It is also used in floral decorations in various events. In fact, you can even paint these trees with your wished colors to suit the environment.

If you grow poinsettias indoors, they can absorb formaldehyde from indoor airs. This is beneficial to human health. Some people use these trees and their latex as medicines too. However, the medicinal effects of these trees are not proven scientifically.

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Growing Swan River Daisy Plants

2021-01-04T02:30:00.007-08:00

Swan River Daisy

There are limitless choices when a gardener decides to grow flowering plants to beautify his landscape. The swan river daisies are known to reward its growers with a profusion of delicate, small, cute blooms with a lovely mild fragrance.

Swan river daisies are native to the Australian continent. They are mostly grown as annuals in cooler regions and perennials in warmer regions. However, they bloom less or even stop blooming in extremely hot temperatures

They can grow to a height of about 1.5 feet (30 cm.). They bloom with a wide range of colors ranging from white to violet. In addition, it has a delicate sweet fragrance. It attracts pollinators too such as butterflies, hummingbirds, etc.

The flowers are small measuring about an inch across. However, the flower clusters provide beautiful scenery when mass planted or interplanted with other companion plants.

Growing swan river daisy plants

In general, the swan river daisy is a drought-tolerant plant. Being hardy, it is easy to grow and maintain this plant. It prefers to grow in cool summers. Under humid and extreme temperatures, these plants begin to experience stress. Hence, they may bloom very less or even stop blooming.

Start the growing process about a couple of months before the last frost date. Sow the seeds in a container filled with a good quality potting soil. Make sure the pot has good draining facilities. Water completely and place in a room for indirect sunlight. Water periodically to maintain the soil moisture.

In about a couple of weeks, you may notice germination. After the danger of frost is passed, transplant the seedlings in the garden. Make sure to space the plants at least 6 inches apart.

Alternatively, you can plant them in gardens directly after the frost. Growing and maintain these plants are relatively simple and easy.

Caring

If you grow swan river daisy plants in containers, apply 5-10-5 fertilizers every week. In addition, you can feed them with liquid foods to enhance growth.

If you grow them in gardens, feed them with liquid foods, and also fertilize the soil at least at least every month.

After maturing and establishing themselves, these plants do not require watering. They may sustain with occasional rains. However, if they encounter very long dry spells, water them occasionally.

Avoid overwatering, as it may cause fungal diseases and root rots.

Mostly, small animals such as rabbits, or even deer do not damage these plants. So, you can be relatively care-free.

Companion plants

There are many companion plants for swan river daisies available in the market. However, we recommend Geranium, Gazania, and Lisianthu. These beautiful companion plants match perfectly with daisies in both beauty and most of the characteristics.

Pests and diseases

These plants are mostly not affected by any major pests or diseases. However, be watchful for snails and slugs. They may chew out the foliage and destroy the whole plant. However, you can treat them easily with baits or chemicals.

Powdery mildew, a common plant disease often attacks these plants in warm and humid environments. You can use specifically formulated sprays like “powdery mildew sprays” to treat this disease effectively.

Final thoughts

You can decorate your garden spaces by mass planting swan river daisies. If you interplant with compatible companion plants, they provide very beautiful scenery.

You can use them as border plants and also inhouse plants. They will surely gather attention with beautiful looks and pleasant fragrance.

For more detailed information, click here!