When it’s time to upgrade your company’s mower fleet, your decisions go beyond zero-turn or walk-behind and deck size. You also need to consider fuel options. There are many benefits of diesel mowers for commercial lawn care operations, but what’s right for your business will depend on your priorities and the type of properties you mow.

Diesel Mowers Offer Durability

Diesel mowers are long lasting and durable. They can power larger decks and run at higher ground speeds, making them a good choice for fleets that mow larger properties. Diesel fuel costs are slightly higher than gas; however, diesel engines are more efficient than gasoline engines, reducing fuel consumption.

As an example, Exmark’s Lazer Z diesel mowers feature our patented RED Technology. When paired with cutting-edge EPA Tier 4-certified Yanmar diesel engines, RED increases engine responsiveness and reduces fuel consumption. Which means these efficient diesel mowers have a lower cost of operation than gasoline machines.

For commercial lawn care companies that operate in residential areas, an added benefit of diesel mowers is their construction can reduce noise. Their shrouded, liquid-cooled engines, low-mounted exhaust, and reduced engine RPM mean diesel mowers are typically quieter than other engine types.

A downside to diesel is its higher up-front investment than gas mowers. There’s less choice in size and mower configuration. Typically, diesels are zero turns with large decks; Exmark’s diesel Lazer-Z is available in 60”, 72” and 96” widths. For commercial operations that mow small lawns, gas mowers have more options available.

Could your operation reap the benefits of diesel mowers? That depends on what you mow and your business model.  No matter what mower is the right fit for your business, your local Exmark dealer is the person to talk to.

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If you’ve got several acres (or more) to mow, you may have commercial mower envy. Mowers that professional landscapers use typically have larger decks and more powerful engines. They can trim mowing time as easily as they trim along borders, but the prices can carry some serious sticker shock.  Residential zero-turns designed with professional parts, so they deliver professional results, are a great fit for homeowners who mow their own acreage.

Exmark Quest residential zero-turns deliver professional cut quality at the lower price point than commercial mowers. However, it still has professional-grade features and provides the comfort and durability pros demand of their machines. The intuitive controls and improved stability of Quest mowers make them easy to use. Professional-grade features include a smooth hydro-drive system, V-twin engines, and fabricated and welded floating steel decks. And with a top forward speed of 7 miles per hour, Quest machines can mow at a professional rate.

No matter how much you love your lawn, you don’t want to spend hours keeping it in shape. (Let’s face it, there are better ways to spend time in your backyard.) Quest mowers are outfitted with decks ranging from 34” to 60”. An E-Series with a 42” deck can mow up to 2.37 acres per hour. With a 60” deck, the Quest S-Series can cut up to 3.39 acres in an hour. This means more time enjoying your yard with friends and family.

To help you get the lush, perfect lawn of your dreams with less effort, Quest’s standard side-discharge decks can be rigged for mulching or bagging. It’s easy to adjust the deck height in half-inch increments, from 1.5” to 4.5”, allowing you to cut areas close to the house shorter, but leave others slightly longer. With optional micro-mulching and turf striping kits, you can achieve the look of professional lawn maintenance.

Even if you’re spending less time, mowing is more enjoyable when you’re comfortable. Quest mowers feature improved ergonomics that help reduce stress on shoulders and arms. Both the E-series and S-series are equipped with high-backed adjustable seats. The premium ergonomic seating system delivers a smooth ride even on rough and uneven ground. The seat on the S-series is upgraded with a contoured foam back, padded armrests, and spring suspension.

Professional grade parts and engineering mean Quest is low maintenance and durable.  A few of these features are standard: A rear engine guard protects critical engine components. The transmission is built with heavy-duty components to reduce wear. Blade spindles are sealed and maintenance free.  Welded wear strips and 10-gauge steel provide solid, long-lasting deck construction.

See how homeowners rely on Exmark mowers to maintain their dream yards.

If you’re ready to stop envying the pros’ mowers, it’s time for a Quest residential zero-turn. To test one out, find your local Exmark dealer.

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If you’re new to lawncare, you might be wondering, is lawn aeration really necessary? We find that when people ask “is it necessary” about lawn maintenance tasks, they’re really wondering if the benefit will be worth the time and effort it involves. The answer is, of course, it depends upon your lawn.

The goal of aeration is to improve oxygen, nutrient and water uptake by your lawn’s roots. Whether you rent a core aerator or use one of many kinds of tine aerators, all those holes will improve the air flow, lawn drainage and allow more nutrients to reach the roots. So even if your lawn is in good shape, it will be beneficial to aerate in the spring or fall. If you aerate and then fertilize, it will make fertilizing more effective.

Lawn aeration is really necessary when nutrients and oxygen can’t get to the roots. Soil compaction can prevent air flow and proper drainage. Compaction can be due to heavy foot traffic, or to machine traffic, such as mowers or construction equipment. Soil composition is also a factor; if you live in an area with heavy or high clay content soil, your lawn will compact more easily than light or sandy soil.

Sure signs of compaction are that it’s hard to dig, slow drainage, even after light rain, in low areas, and high run off. Stunted plant growth, shallow tree roots, and bare areas can also signal compaction. Lawn aeration can help your soil recover from foot or machine traffic. For heavy or clay soils, you may also want to work organic material into the ground to help change soil composition.

Aerating can also be beneficial if you have a deep thatch layer. Thatch is organic material, like grass clippings and leaf mulch, that sits on top of the soil. A small layer of thatch is beneficial, but more than half an inch will prevent air and nutrients from reaching the roots. If your grass feels springy or spongy underfoot, your lawn probably has too thick a thatch layer. Aeration will speed up decomposition of thatch by increasing bioactivity. If you’re aerating due to thatch, you should use an aerator that pulls plugs of at least 1” of soil.

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Lawn care companies demand a lot more of their mowers than the average homeowner. Professionals’ mowers must be reliable, efficient and profitable to operate.  They must be flexible enough to mow lawns large and small, office parks or municipal properties on any given day. Performance mowers with electronic fuel injection (EFI) and RED Technology can answer that demand, by making mowers more fuel efficient, reliable, and profitable to run.

RED Technology On-Board Intelligence System

With Exmark’s patented RED Technology, the mower’s key systems communicate with each other. In addition to extending mower life, RED Technology improves performance, production, and fuel efficiency. Defined operating modes maximize fuel efficiency.

Running the mower in low mode allows you to operate during wet or damp conditions, and reduces the occurrence of deck packing.  The mower operates at peak performance in efficient mode, with reduced fuel usage and protection against wear and tear. Max mode delivers extended power for difficult conditions like thick, tall grass and steep grades.

RED Technology also has six customizable engine speed set points. Operators can easily switch between different power levels without interrupting the power and pace of the mower. Should a major problem happen, “Safe Transport Mode” allows for safe return for servicing.

Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)

A mower with EFI maintains engine RPM and blade speed, so you continue to operate at top performance and efficiency, no matter how tough the terrain and grass conditions. Traditional carburetors approximate the ratio of fuel to air, EFI mowers operate by using pressurized injectors to spray exact amounts of fuel into the air system. As a result, the mower experiences increased performance and efficiency. EFI has been tested and shown to improve efficiency by up to 25% over other traditional carburetors and mowers.

Performance Mowers

Two of Exmark’s performance mowers with EFI are the 48” zero-turn Navigator and the wide area walk-behind Turf Tracer. These mowers were designed for two different types of commercial operations.

Navigator is the mower you need for high-end properties. It delivers manicured lawns with no stray clippings, thanks to its dedicated collection system with a large diameter blower to improve hopper fill. A center-discharge deck with two-sided trimming increases clipping control, so flower beds and walkways remain free of debris. But with its efficient EFI engine, it reduces fuel consumption, saving operators up to 25%.

Turf Tracer X-Series and S-Series are engineered for speed, efficiency and durability, while providing a quality of cut that’s second to none. Full floating decks between 36” and 50” mean these workhorses are applicable to a wide variety of property sizes and types. Turf Tracer delivers unmatched operator comfort, keeping your crew productive all day long. Enhanced fuel efficiency and reliability help keep you profitable.

Want to see if any of the Exmark EFI mowers are right for your business? Contact your local dealer.

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Nothing makes a lawn look better than crisp lines. Whether it’s a simple stripe or a complex pattern, lawn striping makes a lawn look like a professional mowed it. If you’re struggling to get the look on your lawn, here’s how to mow stripes or patterns in your lawn.

What Causes Lawn Stripes?

Lawn stripes are nothing but reflected light. What happens is when you make a pass with your mower, the grass is bent. When you make a pass in the opposite direction, the grass bends away in a different direction than the first pass. The grass bent towards you appears dark, while the grass bent away from you appears lighter.

Do You Need a Striping Kit or a Fancy Mower?

While a striping kit will push the grass over further, you don’t need one. And any mower, even a 21” residential walk-behind, can be used for striping, although zero turn and riding mowers will make complicated patterns, like diamonds, easier. Mowing slightly higher makes stripes more pronounced, as the grass will bend further. Shorter blades will bend less, so if you want to make the most of your stripes, set your mower about half an inch higher than usual.

Another thing that will make your stripes stand out is a healthy and full lawn. Taking the time for spring lawn maintenance will pay off later in the summer, when your lawn is lush and green, with beautiful stripes.

How to Mow Stripes in Your Lawn

Decide which directions you want your stripes to run. Stripes that are perpendicular to the street will be more noticeable than ones that are horizontal. Start on an edge of the lawn and mow a straight line; to keep your pass straight, look about ten feet in front of the mower, not at the ground right in front of you. At the end of your row, be sure to lift the mower deck as you turn. Mow in a straight line next to the first stripe.

How to Mow Checkerboards

To mow a checkerboard, start with your basic stripes. Then mow the lawn at a 90% angle to your stripes. Finally, mow a strip around the edges of the lawn.

Other Mowing Patterns

For those that want to give their lawns the look of a ball field, there is the diamond pattern, which involves mowing one pass on a diagonal, then two passes in the other direction. Then mow in the same one-pass, two-pass pattern on a diagonal at 90 degrees to the first set of diagonals. For circles, start at the center of your lawn and mow in one direction. Lift the deck and mow a second circle in the opposite direction. Keep repeating until your entire lawn is mowed.

Want to see a pro mowing stripes? Check out this video of Brian Latimer lawn striping.

The post Lawn Striping: How to Mow Stripes and Patterns appeared first on Exmark Blog.

Any lawn, no matter how well cared for, can develop low spots, uneven patches and bare spots. Whether they’re caused by erosion or the ground settling around pipes or other installations, they can typically be resolved by top-dressing. Top dressing is also a good time to add organic matter to your soil. Here’s how to top-dress and reseed your lawn.

You can buy a high quality top-dressing mixture at your garden center, or make your own. To create your own, use a mixture of loam or topsoil, compost or peat, and sand. The proportions of these will vary depending on your lawn; for sandy soil, use more topsoil and compost, and for clay soils, increase the sand and compost to improve the soil composition.

If you’re top-dressing the entire lawn rather than a few problem areas, it’s a good idea to aerate beforehand. This will help the organic matter work its way into the soil, reduce compaction, and provide channels for air and water to reach the roots.

To apply the top-dressing, work in a few square feet at a time. Make a small mound of top-dressing on the lawn (2-4 shovels full) and spread it across the grass. The back of a garden rake is a good choice. Cover low spots and work it into the aeration holes. Ideally, you want a layer between half an inch and an inch over the grass. Work it until the grass begins to peek though the soil and the layer is even. Then flip your rake over and use the tines, raking until the top dressing settles on the soil.

For low spots that will require more than two inches of top dressing, remove the existing sod. Simply covering the existing grass can lead to underground decay, which can damage new grass and cause the ground to settle again. The sod can be replaced once you’ve filled the low spot. In extreme cases, you may need a multi-year plan, top dressing a couple of inches a year to gradually build the spot up to the level of the lawn.

Once the entire lawn is top-dressed and even, give it a gentle watering and check your low spots for settling. Smooth away bumps, and fill in any divots. If you dug sod out of low spots, replace it. (Learn how to choose the right sod for your lawn.)

The existing grass can grow through up to an inch of top-dressing, but if you had thin grass or bare spots, now is the time to reseed. The organic matter in the top-dressing will provide nutrients to the seedlings as they sprout and fill in.

Top dressing and reseeding is most effective in early spring, when cooler air temperatures and warmer soil temperatures will promote growth. Early fall is also a good time; you just need to allow enough time for new growth and to be able to mow three or four times before dormancy sets in.

For more lawncare tips, check out Exmark’s Backyard Life.

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While we often think of wildfires as being a western problem, the threat from wildfires has increased in almost all areas of the U.S. California and the Pacific Northwest get much of the attention, however, wildfires burned hundreds of thousands of acres in the southeast, mid-Atlantic, New England, the Midwest, the Great Plains, and the Rocky Mountain states in 2019.  For people living in rural settings, small towns or the farthest reaches of suburbia, wildfires are a real risk. Here are some landscaping tips to help reduce fire risk.

First, trees and shrubs close to the house provide the greatest risk to your home. They can catch fire and  easily spread to the walls and roof. Strong winds can also blow sparks onto your roof from tree limbs that are ten to fifteen feet away. Aim for a 30-foot safety zone around your house and any other buildings.  Relocate or eliminate existing trees that are less than thirty feet from your house.  Keep shrubs small, well pruned, and away from buildings. Prune tree limbs that come within fifteen feet of your roof or walls.

When possible, avoid highly flammable plants, including most pines, evergreens, junipers and fir trees. Two notable exceptions are Ponderosa pines and Western larches as they have thick bark and high water content in their needles. Additionally, deciduous shrubs are more fire-resistant than conifers. Consult with a garden center about good choices for your area. Choose low growing rather than vertical bushes, and prune back any dead branches.

A good rule of thumb is that plants with strongly scented oils are likely to be highly flammable. An exception is lavender, provided it is kept well-watered. Drought-tolerant plants are another good choice, as they will be less likely to turn dry and brown. The more green and lush your annuals and perennials are, the more fire-resistant they will be.

When designing planting beds, keep them five feet from the house. Create gravel or rock borders between the house and planting beds, and keep them clear of dead vegetation. Ground cover vines, like ivy and vinca, are good choices for creating visual interest and differentiating between lawn and beds, but be sure that they don’t start growing up walls or other structures.

Rather than tall ornamental grasses, which dry and can be fuel for a wildfire, consider planting sedges. They grow in short, tidy clumps, rather than spreading like grasses do, and they can be evergreen.  Succulents, like sedum, hens and chickens, and yuccas, are also good choices, as they store water and will be less likely to dry out.

Bark mulch can be a fire hazard if it dries out, so consider choosing gravel or rock instead. If you do opt for bark mulch or wood chips, be sure to water frequently enough to keep it damp. Rock gardens with a variety of succulents and perennials are a good choice when landscaping to reduce fire risk.

When designing outdoor living spaces, avoid wooden decks, especially if they’re built adjacent to the house. Choose brick or paver patios instead, with low (2-3 foot) walls that can act as a fire break. And rather than using stepping stones to connect areas, create gravel or paver pathways. If wide enough, they can help stop fires from spreading to your house.

With thought and care, you can design a beautiful landscape that helps reduce fire risk. But the most important step will be to maintain it. Keep grass mowed, debris cleared away, and trees and shrubs pruned.

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Now that the temperatures have soared and the sun is blazing, you may be wondering how much and how often to water your lawn. Watering the grass may appear simple, but your lawn’s water requirements change with the season. It’s important to find the balance between under-watering and over-watering to ensure your grass is obtaining all its necessary nutrients.

When considering what the right amount of water is, you need to take into consideration both regional and seasonal issues that can impact your growing. Water needs will vary depending on the type of grass in your lawn and the current weather patterns.   

COOL-SEASON GRASSES

Cool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass, fescues and perennial ryegrass, grow across much of the Midwest and northern US. They can survive both freezing winters and hot summers. The ideal growing periods for cool-season grasses are the spring and fall.

Spring

Heavy seasonal rainfall will keep soil moist, and grass will flourish as it emerges from dormancy.

You should only need to water if temperatures are above average, or there is below average rainfall.

Summer

Cool-season grasses need a recommended 1 inch of water per week to flourish and be healthy. If there is a constant rise or fall in temperature, then you may need to adjust this number accordingly. A best practice is to water once in the morning and once before sunset to ensure a full release of nutrients

Fall

Begin to cut down your watering by about 50%, but still focus on maintaining healthy levels of moisture. Grass will begin to turn brown as it goes dormant.

WARM-SEASON GRASSES

Warm-season grasses like Bermuda, St Augustine and zoysia, cover most of the Southern United States. They survive best in hot tropical regions that have elevated temperatures and high levels of moisture. These grasses grow best during warm summer months.

Spring

Warm-season grasses will begin their growing periods during mid to late February. Grass needs a recommended 1 to 1.25 inches of moisture per week (includes physical watering and rainfall). Start watering early to ensure full growth.

Summer

Pay attention to local conditions to maintain safe water levels. Unless there’s lower than average rainfall, warm-season grasses will flourish on their own.  Aerate your lawn if you’re not seeing desired growth.

Fall

Rainfall will increase, and temperatures will begin to fall so your lawn shouldn’t need much watering. Grass should not be getting more than 1 inch of water per week. Be sure to rake leaves to ensure grass is still getting sunlight.

If you’re in a drought-prone area, local restrictions may make it hard to get your lawn adequate water. Consider creating a drought-tolerant lawn that will stand up to your conditions better than a traditional lawn.

Not every lawn will follow the same watering and maintenance pattern, so it’s best to tailor a schedule that works for you. A local lawns specialist can help develop and maintain a watering schedule that works for your lawn, location and conditions.

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For many lawn care operations, a simple formula of mow more lawns, faster, yields financial success. A key component of that formula is the mowers you use. Larger, more powerful equipment can increase the number of properties you mow on any given day. Success of your business hinges on mowing more lawns, faster, without increasing staff. The trick is deciding which size wide-area mower is right for your business, so that you aren’t paying for too much mower.

How Wide are Wide Area Mowers?

Typically, wide area mowers have cutting decks larger than 48 inches and come in walk-behind and zero-turn models. They cut more with every pass and are designed for efficiency at higher speeds. A propane or diesel engine can increase fuel efficiency, reducing your operating costs. And because they’re designed for professional use, they’re built for reliability and daily use.

But before you replace your entire fleet of mowers with a couple of 96” flex wing zero-turns, review the properties you currently mow. Wide area mowers tend to perform best in open, flat terrain. Think parks, athletic fields and acreage lawns. If your current portfolio includes large commercial properties, or residences with 3-acre lots in the Great Plains, that 96” mower could be just the ticket. However, if you mainly mow on rolling terrain or uneven ground, a smaller sized walk behind mower might be better, as too wide of a mower will scalp areas. Additionally, if most of your properties have trees, shrubs and other obstacles, the largest deck sizes will make mowing around them more difficult.

Deck Size by Property Size

A good rule of thumb is to look at lot size. On lots the size of a football field (1.63 acres) or larger, deck sizes of 48” and up may be a good fit.  If you routinely mow areas larger than 2 acres, consider 52” or 60” decks; 72” and 96” decks could be the right choice for companies with municipal or cemetery contracts. If your business specializes in residential lots smaller than an acre and a half, you may be better served by a smaller mower with a deck between 36 and 42 inches with a bigger engine and faster mowing speeds.

Consider Wide-Area Walk Behinds  

While zero-turns are great choices for commercial mowing operations, advances in technology have made wide area walk-behinds more comfortable to operate and require less effort. Exmark makes walk-behind mowers with hydrostatic drives, more efficient engines, Enhanced Control Systems (ECS), and improved ergonomics that reduce operator fatigue worth taking for a test mow. Pair a wide-area walk behind like the Turf Tracer X-Series with a sulky and transform it to a stand-on mower for extra-large properties. And a wide deck on a walk-behind may help reduce scalping on hilly terrain better than a ride-on with a similar size deck.  In addition to hilly terrain, walk-behind mowers are also recommended near or around potential hazards like water features or steep drop-offs.

Transport

You’ve got to get the mowers to your job sites, so be sure to take your existing trailer size into consideration when making your decision. If a larger mower won’t fit on your trailers, factor additional trailers into your cost-benefit analysis. You’ll need a full width ramp for trailering many wide area mowers.

New for 2020

If, after running the numbers, you find that your business could support the additional expense of a wide-area mower, and you have the terrain that would make the widest zero-turn mower feasible, consider the new gasoline powered Lazer Z.

The post Wide Area Mowers: The Right Choice for Your Operation? appeared first on Exmark Blog.

2019 was a record year for flooding, and they caused serious damage and hardship. If you are a homeowner whose lawn was affected by flooding last year, you may just be getting around to your lawn, and you will have your work cut out for you. And if your lawn was under water for an extended period of time, had more than an inch of silt, or was flooded by salt water, returning it to its former beauty will take a lot of work. Follow these steps to get a lush lawn after flooding.

In extreme cases, you will likely have to re-sod your lawn because the turf has died. Ornamentals and trees may survive, but that will depend on their hardiness and species.  But there’s a chance your lawn can survive with attention. Here are the steps you’ll need to take to get it lush and green again.

Step One: Clear out any silt and items left behind by flood waters. You may find that silt was deposited unevenly, giving your lawn new contours and grades. Scrape off and haul away silt, even small amounts, as it will likely contain contaminants like petroleum products and industrial chemicals.  Fill in any washed out areas with top soil. You want your lawn to be as level and even as possible, so rake top soil into low areas.

If you had areas that didn’t drain well prior to the flooding, this would be a good time to address those. Installing a dry creek bed can provide visual interest and funnel high waters away from your property.

Step Two: Aerate your lawn. After being waterlogged, the root system needs help. Core aeration will increase oxygen and nutrients uptake by the roots.

Step Three: Consider your lawn a new one, and apply a starter fertilizer to support root redevelopment. This will also support new growth as you complete step four.

Step Four: Seed and/or over-seed. Seeding is best done in late spring or early fall. Look for hardier grass strands if you think flooding will be a recurring issue. Kentucky bluegrass, red fescues, and crested wheatgrass may be good choices, but consult with a garden center for grass types that would work well in your area.

It’s a good idea to take it easy on your lawn. Keep off the grass as it reestablishes itself. Avoid overwatering, and when you mow, cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade length off. Make sure that your mower blades are sharp because dull blades can tear grass; once torn, the grass can be susceptible to disease.

It may take some work to get your flooded lawn back into shape, but it will be worth it. In a few weeks, you will be able to enjoy your outdoor living space and your beautiful new lawn.

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