Exotic Pets

Nutrition Chelonian

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 03:40:00 +0700

The diet of aquatic turtles should consist of a variety of foodstuffs, including small fish, worms, insects, water plants, and dark green, leafy vegetables. Aquatic turtles like to eat their meals while in the water. Box turtles, on the other hand, prefer to eat on land. They, too, enjoy and need the same type of well-balanced diet as do their aquatic cousins, with the addition of some dark green or yellow vegetables and fruit. A balanced vitamin-mineral supplement should be added to the diet of all turtles for added protection against nutritional bone disease.

Housing snakes

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 03:22:00 +0700

Pet snakes can be categorized several different ways, depending on the type of living environment in which they are normally found in the wild. These can include arboreal snakes such as boa constrictors and Burmese pythons, which prefer living in trees; semi aquatic snakes such as garter snakes, which enjoy living both in water and on land; and terrestrial snakes like ball pythons and king snakes, which prefer solid ground.
Most snakes kept as pets can be housed in converted glass aquariums or custom acrylic enclosures. As a rule, provide at least34 square foot of living area per foot of snake housed within. Secure, well ventilated tops are needed as well to prevent premeditated escape. These tops should be constructed out of peg board, acrylic, or plastic instead of wire mesh, as the latter can cause snout abrasions. The configuration and setup provided within the enclosure itself should cater to your snake’s individual preferences, whether they are arboreal, terrestrial, or semi aquatic. Regardless of the type, plan on thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting the floor, walls, and contents of your pet’s home at least twice monthly.
Keep in mind that the two most crucial factors in providing a proper artificial environment for any reptile are temperature and humidity. In the wild, reptiles regulate their body temperatures (as necessary for various physiological functions) by changing their position in accordance with changes in environmental temperatures. As a result, snakes might choose to bask in the sun on a branch or rock to raise their body temperature, or to seek out shade to lower their body temperature. In captivity, such options should be available as well.
An incandescent light bulb with a reflector can be positioned over one end of the cage containing a basking branch or rock. Temperatures in this “hot” region should remain a consistent 93 to 97 degrees Fahrenheit. (Note: Commercially available “hot rocks” should not be used within the enclosure, since these can burn the underside of snakes.) Temperature gradients elsewhere within the enclosure should range from 85 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Heating pads can be placed beneath selected sections of the aquarium to achieve these temperature gradients. Ceramic heating elements can be utilized as well.
Aquarium thermometers should be placed at multiple locations within the cage to monitor these temperatures throughout.
A humidity gauge should be centrally located in your snake’s enclosure, away from heat and light sources. Relative humidity should be maintained between 40 and 70 percent. Environmental humidity kept too low can cause dehydration and shedding challenges. On the contrary, humidity kept consistently too high can predispose a snake to potentially harmful fungal and bacterial growth.
Artificial turf, indoor/outdoor carpet, aspen chips, or butcher-block paper can be used to line the floor of your snake’s terrarium. If either of the first two are used, keep two or three clean pieces available as backups to quickly replace soiled ones. Excretions and any uneaten food should be removed daily, and the flooring should be changed at least every other day. A quaternary ammonium compound or chlorhexidine diluted 1:10 with water is an ideal disinfectant for cleaning and soaking soiled pieces of flooring. If you have only one piece of turf to work with, be sure to rinse and dry it completely before placing it back into the cage. Failure to do so could predispose your snake to skin irritation and disease.
For arboreal species, provide plenty of branches of different types and sizes on which your snake may climb. Smooth rock formations, hollow logs, or other hiding areas should be placed at different temperature locations within the enclosure. Burrowing snakes, such as sand boas, will also need a substrate into which they can burrow. Aspen shavings or other commercially available substrates designed for snakes serve this function quite nicely.
Another item needed for your snake’s home is a sturdy ceramic or plastic water bowl large enough for the snake to crawl into. The bowl should contain a water level shallow enough as to not completely submerge the snake’s body. Use filtered water as a water source to prevent chlorine irritation to your pet’s skin. Change the water and clean the bowl on a daily basis.

Restraint snakes

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 03:17:00 +0700

Most snakes become accustomed to being handled by their owners without requiring any special restraint techniques. However, if a snake seems to be aggressive or hyperactive, restrain it by first gripping the snake just behind its head to gain control of this region. The body should then be supported with the other hand. Gloves can be worn if necessary to protect the hands. Also, to be safe, never handle a very large constrictor snake, especially one with a belligerent attitude, if no one else is around.

Care Of Snakes

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 03:15:00 +0700

Although thousands of snake varieties exist, the ones most commonly kept as pets include pythons, boa constrictors, garter snakes, milk snakes, king snakes, and corn snakes (rat snakes). Obviously, owner ship of venomous snakes should be restricted to those persons having special training in the husbandry and handling of these species. As a result, the information contained in this section focuses on the more popular nonpoisonous varieties mentioned above. As with most other exotic pets discussed in this chapter, pet snakes will thrive in those environments that are climate-controlled, are sanitary, and offer high quality sources of nutrition for their inhabitants. Many snakes kept in such conditions can live a healthy 10 to 20 years.

Preventive Health Care Rabbits

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 03:14:00 +0700

Routine vaccinations are not required for rabbits, but annual veterinary checkups and stool checks are highly recommended. The nails should be trimmed monthly (or more frequently if needed), and the haircoat should be brushed at least twice weekly (longhair varieties more frequently). Rabbits will shed their haircoats every 3 to 4 months. Feline hairball laxative should be administered weekly to prevent hairball formation. While administering this medication, take note of the teeth for any apparent overgrowth. If detected, contact your veterinarian. Fleas and ear mites can be controlled using safe topical products designed for puppies and kittens.
Adult does can be spayed to prevent further pregnancies and to reduce the incidence of uterine cancer as they grow older. Similarly, bucks can be neutered when they are 8 to 12 months of age. Ask your veterinarian for more details. Strict sanitation, environmental control, and high-quality rations must be given top priority in order to prevent disease. Keep a close eye on your pet’s behavior, eating habits, elimination habits, and physical characteristics. Notify your veterinarian of any changes. Care should be taken to prevent obesity, which can have the same deleterious effects in rabbits as it does in humans. And don’t forget to offer a liberal dose of attention to your pet each day to help fulfill its mental and emotional needs.

Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 02:44:00 +0700

Although more popular as laboratory research animals, mice and rats are occasionally kept as pets. They are relatively easy to care for, and most have gentle dispositions, making them easy to handle. The mouse, Mus musculus, and the rat, Rattus norvegicus, originated from the Asian continent, but soon spread with man throughout the world. They are both nocturnal creatures, becoming most active during the twilight hours. However, some mice may choose to be quite active during the day as well. Both have hairless tails, a fact that helps differentiate the mouse from its rodent cousin, the gerbil. While most pet rats are pure white or white with black or brown “hoods,” pet mice can be found in a variety of colors, including white, black, brown, and tan. The captive life span for mice and rats is around 2 to 4 years.

Restraint Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 02:42:00 +0700

Mice and rats are usually quite gentle and can be handled without much trouble. Feistier pets can be picked up and restrained by grasping the base of the tail with one hand and as you lift, encircling the back and ribcage with the other hand. For mice, you can also use your thumb and index finger to grasp the scruff of the neck. Be ready: Most rodents will urinate and/or defecate when handled.

Reproduction Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 02:34:00 +0700

Male mice and rats can be differentiated from females on the basis of their external genitalia and by the distance between the anal and genital openings (longer in males). Female mice and rats experience a heat cycle every 4 to 6 days. Once they have been bred, the gestation period is approximately 21 days. Litter size normally ranges from six to twelve. Baby mice and rats, like other rodents, are born hairless and blind. New litters should not be disturbed for at least 3 days after birth. Weaning occurs at 3 to 4 weeks, with the young reaching sexual maturity close to 2 months of age.

Preventive Health Care Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 02:32:00 +0700

Strict sanitation, environmental control, and high-quality rations must be given top priority in order to prevent disease in mice and rats. Monitor behavior, eating habits, elimination habits, and physical characteristics closely and notify your veterinarian of any noticeable changes.

Diseases and Disorders of Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 02:15:00 +0700

Table 1 shows selected diseases and disorders seen in chinchillas. If your chinchilla shows signs of illness, do not give it any medications unless prescribed by your veterinarian. Remember that with the appearance of any clinical signs, a qualified veterinarian should be allowed to make a definitive diagnosis. Identifying and treating diseases in their early stages are the keys to successful treatment and cure.

Disease or disorder	Clinical signs	Treatment and comments
Bacterial enteritis	Diarrhea; listlessness; dehydration; rectal prolapse	Nonspecific, including antibiotics, fluid replacement, and increases in dietary fiber; often fatal condition; usually due to unsanitary living conditions, poor diets, or abrupt dietary changes
Pneumonia	Breathing difficulties; swollen neck; nasal discharge; depression	Treat with antibiotics and fluids; improve housing conditions, including ventilation and temperature
Fur chewing	Fur on lower portion of body short, “lion’s mane” appearance (due to self mutilation); moth-eaten appearance (barbering by cage mate)	Possible causes include boredom, poor nutrition, stress due to poor husbandry, heredity, hormonal disorders, and/or fungi; separate cage mates to prevent barbering; offer fatty acid and/or zinc supplements
Malocclusion (tooth overgrowth)	Drooling; weight loss; loss of appetite; crooked, curling teeth; runny eyes; bleeding from mouth	Trim teeth under sedation; allow access to chew blocks or other chewing material to help “file down” teeth
Paraphimosis (hair rings)	Male infertility; irritation and swelling of penis and prepuce due to hair wrapped around these structures	Manually remove ring using sterile lubricant; check for recurrence monthly
Heat prostration	Rapid, open-mouth breathing; extreme weakness	Immerse in cool water; seek veterinary care immediately; can occur when environmental temperatures exceed 80°F, especially with high humidity
Metal toxicity	Weakness; weight loss; seizures	Caused by excess consumption of lead and/or zinc; usually secondary to chewing on galvanized metal or objects containing lead
Abscesses	Swellings on or beneath skin	Surgical removal or drainage; treat with antibiotics; usually secondary to injuries or bite wounds
Bacterial encephalitis	Seizures; incoordination	Caused by poor sanitation or food contamination; poor prognosis, even with treatment with antibiotics
Ringworm	Hair loss, dermatitis	Oral antifungal drugs; antifungal agent added to dust bath
Bloat	Reluctance to move; recumbency; lethargy loss of appetite	Decompress bloat using stomach tube; caused by overeating fruit or green feed; can also occur secondary to Enteritis
Constipation	Straining; unable to defecate	Increase fiber in diet; administer laxative (i.e., mineral oil) to facilitate passage
Conjunctivitis	Red, irritated runny eyes	Caused by upper respiratory infection or irritation from dust; treat with antibiotics (oral and/or topical); reduce the number of dust baths offered each week

Diseases and Disorders of Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sat, 29 Mar 2008 02:09:00 +0700

Preventive Health Care of Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Fri, 28 Mar 2008 02:07:00 +0700

As with guinea pigs, routine vaccinations are not required for chinchillas, yet a routine annual visit to your veterinarian is highly recommended. Always pay attention to your pet’s behavior, eating habits, elimination habits, and physical characteristics. Notify your veterinar- ian immediately of any changes. Obesity can be a problem in pet chinchillas, so monitor your pet’s weight frequently.
As a rule, chinchillas are hardy creatures and rarely suffer health problems. Most unthriftiness and ill health seen are direct results of poor diet and poor housing conditions. Taking special care to ensure that these two husbandry factors are optimized is the best defense against illness or injury in chinchillas.
The chinchilla’s soft, velvety hair coat requires little maintenance aside from its dust baths during the week. Weekly brushing using a soft cloth is also recommended to help remove any obvious dirt and shed hair from the coat. Your chinchilla will enjoy it as well!
Chinchillas enjoy exploring their environments with their mouths and will chew to maintain their long incisor teeth at proper length. As a result, don’t allow your pet to roam the house unsupervised, as one encounter with an electrical cord or similar hazard could spell disaster. As mentioned previously, chinchillas that don’t receive adequate amounts of fiber in their diets are highly predisposed to serious digestive disturbances. Any abrupt changes in diet can also cause enteritis. If introducing a new food to your chinchilla, always do so gradually over several days. If diarrhea develops, contact your veterinarian immediately.
Hot, humid conditions can pose a definite health threat to chinchillas. The ideal environmental temperature for them is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures exceeding 85 degrees Fahrenheit can quickly lead to heat stroke.

Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 02:30:00 +0700

Reproduction of Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 02:04:00 +0700

The age at which chinchillas reach puberty depends on the time of year they were born. For example, chinchillas born in spring will often reach puberty 4 to 6 months later, whereas those born in the fall months can take up to a year to reach sexual maturity. Breeding season runs between November and May each year. Females cycle every 6 to 7 weeks during this time. When introducing male and female chinchillas to each other, always supervise the initial interaction. Females that feel uncomfortable with a potential mate can become aggressive and do much harm to him. This is especially true when a younger male is paired with an older female.
Gestation for chinchillas lasts an average of 111 days. A small nesting box containing straw may be offered to the pregnant female nearing parturition. However, when the time comes, she may simply choose to give birth directly on the floor bedding. The average litter size is two, although litters of up to five have been known to occur. Birth usually occurs in the morning hours. Newborn kits are born fully furred, with eyes and ears functional, and a full complement of teeth. Chinchilla kits are usually eating pellets as early as 7 days of age, although full weaning won’t occur until 3 to 5 weeks of age. Note that once parturition has taken place, the female chinchilla will enter into heat again several days later.

Nutrition Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 02:02:00 +0700

In the wild, the chinchilla’s natural diet consisted of grasses, shrubs, roots, and the occasional berry. Fortunately, special food pellets designed for chinchillas are commercially available and make feeding a balanced diet quite easy. It should be noted that chinchillas like to grasp food pellets with their forepaws and eat from their hands. As a result, the size of the pellet offered is important. Short pelleted foods are difficult for the average chinchilla to handle, and will lead to mal nourishment.
Pellets should be offered in a sturdy, hard plastic, metal, or ceramic food dish. Feed your chinchilla approximately 12ounce of pellets in the morning and again in the evening. In addition to pellets, you can supplement your pet’s diet with nuts, raisins, or dried cherries. However, such supplementation should not exceed 15 percent of your chinchilla’s daily dietary intake.
Because their digestive tracts are designed to ferment foodstuffs in the lower portion of the bowel, chinchillas require a good source of dietary fiber. For those kept as pets, hay provides the best source of this nutrient. The average chinchilla will consume up to one cup of hay per day. Chinchillas that are not provided adequate dietary fiber will develop potentially life-threatening enteritis. Hay racks should be hung from the sides of the cage and kept full at all times to help prevent such a problem. Finally, because a chinchilla’s teeth are in a constant growth mode, provide a hardwood chew block and/or tree branches (e.g., elm, maple, birch, apple, pear, peach) to help keep the teeth worn down properly and to satisfy the chinchilla’s desire to chew. Avoid branches from trees such as cedar, redwood, cherry, and oleander, as these can be poisonous.

Nutrition Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 02:37:00 +0700

Rations for mice and rats should consist of commercial rodent pellets with a few vegetables or fruit pieces added. However, these treats should not exceed 5 percent of the total daily ration. Some mice and rats may prefer the treats over the regular ration, leading to nutritional imbalances. At the same time, be careful not to over feed regular rations, since obesity causes the same ill effects in these small animals as it does in larger ones.

The average mouse will consume about 3 to 4 grams of food per day; rats will consume 10 to 20 grams. Chew-resistant dispensers that hang suspended from the side of the cage can be used to deliver water and food. This method of delivery is much more sanitary than simply placing a food or water bowl on the floor of the cage.
Be sure the sources of food and water are easily reachable and that the delivery end of the water sipper remains accessible. Failure to heed this advice could lead to death from starvation or dehydration, especially in small or weak animals. Natural wood blocks or sticks for chewing should be placed in the enclosure as well to help keep the incisors worn down and healthy.

Housing to Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 02:00:00 +0700

When selecting living quarters for your chinchilla, keep in mind the dry, cool climate from where your friend originated. Ideal environmental temperature for chinchillas is between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures can drop to as low as 32 degrees Fahrenheit for short periods of time without ill effects as long as the humidity is kept low and the room is draft-free. Environmental humidity should be kept at 40 percent or lower. A humidity gauge attached to your pet’s enclosure can help ensure that this requirement is being met. Select a relatively remote, peaceful location within the home in which to place the cage. Since chinchillas are nocturnal creatures, distance the cage far enough from your family’s sleeping quarters so as not to be disturbed by your chinchilla’s nighttime activities.
Chinchillas need lots of room to move and roam in, so select a spacious enclosure. To prevent destruction due to chewing, your pet’s cage should be constructed of metal instead of wood. Chinchillas love to climb. Providing multilevel cages or shelving within a single cage would make your chinchilla extremely happy. The smooth flooring of the cage can be lined with aspen shavings or commercial rodent bedding. Cedar chips should not be used, as these can irritate the respiratory tract of rodents. Change this bedding at least twice per week to maintain proper sanitation. If you nplan on owning more than one chinchilla, they need to be housed separately, as chinchillas housed together within a confined space (especially two males) can become quite bellicose to one another.
Provide your chinchilla with plenty of places in which to hide and burrow. Wooden hide boxes, ceramic enclosures, or a 4- to 6-inch portion of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipe works great. Even better, an actual arrangement of smooth-edged rocks can be configured within the cage to create crevices and hiding places that simulate your chinchilla’s natural habitat. Obviously, make sure that the rocks are firmly seated and secured to prevent accidental injury to your pet from falling rocks.
Another important accessory you’ll want to provide your unique friend on occasion is a dust bath. In the wild, chinchillas clean their coats by rolling or dusting in volcanic ash found along the mountain slopes. The purpose of such behavior is to rid their special coat of excess oils. Captive chinchillas also need to roll in dust for the same reason. An 8x10-inch pan or dust bin with edges high enough to prevent dust from flying out yet low enough to allow the chinchilla to easily enter is ideal. Fill the pan with 2 to 3 inches of sanitized chinchilla dust purchased from a pet store. This finely granulated dust is the closest you will come to mimicking volcanic ash. Some experts use a home mixture consisting of 9 parts silver sand and 1 part fuller’s earth. Just know that regular sand or dirt won’t do the trick.
Offer your chinchilla its dust bath three times per week. Leave the bath in the cage for 1 to 2 hours, then remove it. Dust baths should never be left as permanent fixtures within cages not only for sanitary purposes but also because over bathing can lead to eye irritation. Dust can be reused if it is free from fecal or urine contamination when removed from the cage. Because chinchillas are creatures of habit, offer their dust baths on set schedules each week.
Both hay racks and water delivery systems should be mounted on the sides of the cage and kept off the floor. Be sure to verify the patency of such devices on a daily basis. The entire cage should be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized weekly.

Housing Mice and Rats

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 02:40:00 +0700

Mice and rats can be housed in any type of cage or container, provided there is enough room to maintain good sanitary conditions and to allow for an exercise wheel, nesting area, and feeding area. Mice tend to be escape artists, so the enclosure must be secure. Rats are social creatures and can be kept together, regardless of sex, with minimal hostilities. Male and female mice usually can be housed together, but male mice should not be housed together because of their tendency to fight.
You can buy wire-mesh rodent cages for your pet mouse or rat at your favorite pet store. A 5- to 10-gallon aquarium-type enclosure with a wire screened top can be used as well. Smooth plastic or metal floors are preferred over wire mesh, as the latter can pose hazards to both feet and tails. The floor of the cage should be lined with 2 to 3 inches of aspen shavings or commercial bedding. This bedding should be changed at least twice weekly to maintain good sanitation. Nesting material offered can consist of facial tissue, pieces of cloth, or cardboard. Exercise wheels, toys, and makeshift huts or sleeping quarters should be installed for your pet’s enjoyment.
When choosing a wheel for mice and rats, try to select one constructed of plastic. Avoid metal wheels with spokes, since they can cause serious injuries to tails that become intertwined. Ideally, the temperature of the room in which you house your rodent should be kept between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, with a humidity of around 55 to 60 percent. Twelve hours of both light and darkness should be provided daily

Housing Guinea Pigs

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sat, 22 Mar 2008 02:51:00 +0700

Male guinea pigs can be housed with females, yet two males living together will fight. Housing for guinea pigs should consist of a wire cage or aquarium at least 12 inches high and providing at least 2 square feet of space for each pig. The smooth flooring of the cage can be lined with aspen shavings (avoid cedar shavings), commercial rodent bedding, or hay. Bedding should be spot-cleaned daily and changed completely every week. Most guinea pigs appreciate a hiding box or enclosure made of plastic, ceramic, or wood in which to crawl and hide when the feeling arises. Also, guinea pigs like to climb. Providing multilevel shelving within the cage would make your pet extremely happy.
Water delivery systems should be kept up off of the cage floor for sanitary purposes. Since some pigs might actually regurgitate food bback up into the water sipper, be sure to check and maintain the patency of such devices on a daily basis. A sturdy, chew-resistant food bowl is a must. The entire cage and its contents should be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized weekly using soap and water.
Guinea pigs do not tolerate heat and humidity very well. Ideal environmental temperature for them is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures exceeding 80 degrees Fahrenheit can quickly lead to heat stroke.

Reastrain Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 01:56:00 +0700

Chinchillas are fairly easy to handle and require no special restraint techniques. They rarely bite when handled gently; however, they have been known to nip at a finger when frightened or startled. When picking up a chinchilla, grasp it gently at the base of the tail with one hand and scoop up the body under the belly using the other hand.
Chinchillas that are handled roughly can “slip” their fur, leaving large tufts of hair in the hands of the handler. This is a natural defense mechanism designed to leave potential predators with mouthfuls of hair.

Restraint Chinchillas

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 16 Mar 2008 01:46:00 +0700

Chinchillas (Chinchilla lanigera, Chinchilla brevicaudata)

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sat, 15 Mar 2008 01:41:00 +0700

Chinchillas (Chinchilla lanigera; Chinchilla brevicaudata) are members of the rodent family and close relatives of the guinea pig. These fascinating creatures boast compact bodies; squirrel like tails; large, bat like eyes; pronounced, thin, erect ears; and, of course, the famous thick, soft, velvety hair coats. Chinchillas were once native to the high, rocky slopes of the Andes Mountains, stretching from Peru to the tip of Chile. The Chincha Indians inhabiting these slopes valued the chinchilla’s fur as clothing for protection against the bitter Andean cold. As Spanish influence spread across the South American continent, chinchilla fur soon became a valuable export item to Europe. As a result, chinchillas were harvested to near extinction up to the early part of the twentieth century. Today, Chile is the only country still harboring a native population of chinchillas, which is under government protection. Chinchillas first began to appear in the United States in the early 1900s, where they were and are bred and raised commercially for their valuable fur. As the demand for natural fur declines in the United States, more and more chinchillas are finding their way into homes as pets. As a rule, they are clean creatures and harbor little odor. Fun, active, and full of personality, they love to interact with people they know and trust. Chinchillas enjoy being petted and scratched and often emit a soft cooing sound when such attention is afforded them. Their long, heavily muscled hind legs enable them to sit up on their haunches while nibbling on a morsel, and hop around like a kangaroo when the feeling arises. Their acute sense of hearing can cause them to become easily frightened or startled when they are confronted with loud noises or high-pitched sounds. When frightened, a chinchilla may let out a cry and scurry for cover. In fact, if the fright turns into anger, this cry could actually turn into a surprisingly belligerent bark or growl.
The standard chinchilla is blue-gray to dark gray in color, although mutant color variations do exist. These include charcoal, black, brown, beige, and white. Chinchillas weigh in at approximately 400 to 800 grams (with females often weighing more than males) and average about 14 inches in length from head to tail. Their lifespan in captivity averages 10 years, although there have been reports of some living to be 20 Years.

Diseases and Disorders to Amphibians

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 01:33:00 +0700

Improper sanitation, inadequate environmental parameters (such as temperature and humidity), and/or poor nutrition cause the vast majority of diseases and disorders seen in amphibians. If your pet is exhibiting clinical signs or any type of strange behavior, take it to your veterinarian immediately for a checkup. If your veterinarian does not work on amphibians, ask for a referral to one in your area who does so. By identifying and treating diseases in their early stages, successful treatment and cure is much more obtainable. Below are some of the more common diseases and disorders seen in amphibians. Others do exist, which is why a veterinary diagnosis is essential (Table).

Table Diseases and Disorders of Amphibians

Disease or disorder	Clinical signs	Treatment and comments
Red leg disease	Reddened skin on underside of pet; ulcers on toes; bloating; cloudy eyes	Treat with antibiotics; salt baths; sanitize amphibian’s environment
Edema syndrome	Generalized swelling or bloating of the body; breathing difficulties; weakness	Can occur because of liver disease, skin disease, toxins; also seen in amphibians living in and around distilled water; treat by veterinary removal of fluid with needle and syringe; salt baths; treat underlying cause
Water mold disease	White to brown cotton like lesions on skin; weight loss; lethargy; breathing difficulties	Seen in amphibians housed in water kept below 70°F; diagnose with skin scraping; elevate water temperatures to above 70°F; salt baths
Dehydration	Weight loss; emaciation; lethargy; dull, dark skin; sunken eyes; in coordination	Seen in terrestrial amphibians kept in high temperatures; also in amphibians with skin disease; treat with water and electrolyte baths
Parasitic disease	Skin ulceration and lesions; diarrhea; weight loss; breathing difficulties	Due to poor husbandry and stress; treat with antiparasitic drugs and antibiotics; clean and sanitize enclosure; improve nutrition
Hypothermia	Listlessness; loss of appetite	Maintain proper environmental temperatures
Poisoning	Skin lesions; seizures; skin color change; bloating; breathing difficulties	Sources can include disinfectant residues, vegetation or food contaminated with insecticides; contaminated water; remove inciting cause; support through good nutrition an husbandary
Bacterial skin infection	Nodules on skin; weight loss; skin ulcers	Treat with appropriate antibiotics; improve sanitation
Metabolic bone disease	Deformities of jaws and/ or limbs; limb fractures	Due to imbalance of calcium, phosphorus, and other vitamins and minerals in diet; treat or prevent by feeding or dusting food source with supplement prior to feeding to amphibian

Preventive Health Care to Amphibians

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Sun, 9 Mar 2008 02:29:00 +0700

Pet amphibians can benefit from annual veterinary checkups just like other pets. In addition to a physical examination, stool checks and cultures should be performed to ensure that your pet is and remains free of infection or parasitism. Because amphibians can be carriers of zoonotic organisms, special precautions should be taken when handling these pets.
Strict sanitation, environmental control (including temperature and humidity), and high-quality rations must be given top priority in order to prevent disease in amphibians kept as pets. Keep a close eye on your pet’s behavior and movements, eating habits, elimination habits, and physical characteristics. Notify your veterinarian of any changes that you see.

Nutrition of Amphibians

noreply@blogger.com (lucky) — Fri, 7 Mar 2008 02:27:00 +0700

Feeding live food to your frog or salamander is recommended in order to stimulate and promote normal natural feeding behavior. Crickets are the ideal food, as they are inexpensive and easy to obtain. Crickets can be purchased from most pet stores or can be gathered from around your home. Just be sure, however, that all crickets you feed are pesticide free. One day prior to offering them to your pet, feed the crickets tropical fish food or a commercial cricket diet loaded with nutrients to booster their nutritional value.
Terrestrial amphibians can also be fed fruitflies, mealworms, and aphids. Some of the larger toads may even make a meal of baby mice if offered to them! Aquatic amphibians enjoy earthworms, insect larvae, and small fish. Obviously, their food should be fed to them in the water. Feeding your amphibian once a day should be sufficient. Remove any uneaten food from the previous day prior to feeding a fresh meal.
You will soon discover that each frog or salamander will develop its own individualized eating habits. Some will prefer slow-moving prey while others enjoy the thrill of the chase. For instance, toads usually prefer to wait passively for prey to cross their paths, whereas frogs often take a more aggressive approach.