The Far North Garden

Salt Damage On Plants

2012-02-09T09:00:00.001-07:00

During a cold, snowy winter, deicing salts help keep sidewalks, roads and highways clear and improve safety when walking and driving. Unfortunately, deicing salts leach into soils and are splashed onto plants by passing cars, where they can build up and often cause harm to plants. Even a light covering of salt on a large driveway can build up in nearby soils, as it mixes with snow which is then piled up on adjacent garden areas.

How to recognize salt damage:
Because excess salt in soils inhibits plants' ability to draw up water, salt damage can sometimes resemble drought damage. A strip of dead grass right next to a sidewalk or driveway that had salt applied to it is a sure sign of salt damage. Large, established plants in areas where salt has built up in the soil may show little or no signs of damage, but newly planted seeds are likely to have very poor germination and growth. Established plants that are splashed by salt spray can be recognized by stunted, twisted growth, and leaves that turn brown around the edges. Another clear indicator that damage is caused by salt spray is when the damage is clearly only on the side facing the road, where the salty spray comes from.

How to treat salt damage:
If you suspect your plants have been exposed to salt spray, wash the plants with fresh water when the temperature rises above freezing. Soils that have had salts leach into them should be watered deeply several times in the spring to dilute the effects of the salt.

How to avoid salt damage:
To avoid the damage caused by salt around your home, you can simply reduce the amount of deicing salts used on your property. When conditions are extremely icy, sparingly applied salts are unlikely to cause any damage if they are only used once or twice in a winter. For more frequent use, sand can be applied to icy sidewalks, and here in Edmonton, it is usually available for free at your nearest community centre. Kitty litter is also supposed to be quite effective at reducing icy conditions. If you wish to use an ice melter, a product with CMA (calcium magnesium acetate) will be effective in melting ice and should not damage plants, although it is generally more expensive than the chloride-based products. On the small scale required by most homeowners, however, the increased cost may be offset by the the savings of not having to replace plants regularly.

If the salt damage you are trying to avoid is out of your control because a neighbour or city crew is applying the salt, your options are mostly limited to planting salt-resistant plants. Some examples of salt-resistant trees are cottonwood poplars, honeylocust, Jack pine, Austrian pine, white spruce, Colorado spruce, bur oak, red oak, green ash, white ash and Russian olive. Some shrubs that might be successful are mugo pine, junipers, rugosa and scotch roses, caragana, saltbush, shrubby cinquefoil, Japanese spirea, lilac, alpine currant, arrowwood and European cranberrybush. When selecting perennials for salt tolerance, ones known to be drought tolerant will often have the most success. Some that are known to tolerate salt conditions are lady's mantle, sea thrift, 'Karl Foerster' feather reed grass, amethyst sea holly, blanket flower, blue lyme grass, wooly thyme, perennial flax and yarrow.

How to Grow Oyster Mushrooms

2012-02-03T15:35:00.000-07:00

Oyster mushrooms can grow easily in cold climates, and freshly gathered mushrooms are generally superior in flavour and shelf-life to those "gathered" from your local produce section. For those of us who can't or don't gather mushrooms in the wild, they can be cultivated in a shady place in your own garden. This could be a good solution for an area in a yard where there are not enough hours of sunlight for any other food crop.

What you need:
In early spring, make sure you have a source for oyster mushroom spawn (in Canada, try The Gourmet Mushroom Company). Mushroom spawn is not seeds, but when it is "planted" properly, it will produce the next generation of mushrooms. Once you have sourced your spawn, you will need to find a source for freshly cut logs, preferably poplar, but any deciduous tree species will likely work. The ideal size for the logs is about the size of firewood; four to eight inches in diameter and about a foot long.

What to do:
In late spring, stand your freshly cut logs on end. Cover the top end of each log with oyster mushroom spawn. Cover it with aluminum foil and secure it to the log to keep the mushroom spawn moist. When all your logs are complete, place them in black coloured garbage bags (to keep the light out) and store them in a sheltered place, such as an unheated garage or shed, for about 3 months. This gives the mushroom spawn time to colonize the logs. In the fall, dig a trench about six inches deep where you want the mushrooms to grow. Unwrap the logs and place them, upright, in the trench. Replace the soil around the logs and mulch the area with woodchips or leaves. Ensure that the soil doesn't dry out, and keep your eye out for mushrooms growing on and around your logs after the first hard frost. Mushroom logs like this can continue producing for up to five years.

If you don't have a garden at all, various online sources offer mushroom kits that can be grown indoors. Although you may never have heard of them, they are nothing new. My grandfather once told me that at one point in his sales career, may years ago, he sold mushroom kits.

How to Plant a Root-Bound Plant

2011-10-01T19:59:00.000-06:00

When buying new plants, most customers try to choose one that looks reasonably healthy. However, it is easy to buy a plant with healthy-looking foliage, only to discover that it is extremely root-bound when it comes out of the pot. Plants become root-bound when they have been grown in a pot that is too small for too long. They will have many woody roots circling the bottom and even the sides of the container.

If the problem is not too severe, the roots can be gently pulled apart before planting, spreading them around the planting hole when placing the plant in. However, if the plant is very root-bound, it may be impossible to pull the many circling roots apart. If the plant is placed in the hole with too many circling roots, it will have a very difficult time growing any roots out into the surrounding soil, severely limiting its water uptake. I planted a cranberry bush (Viburnum trilobum) a couple of years ago that was very root-bound, but, being in a hurry to get it into the ground, I neglected to adequately separate the roots. Although we watered it quite often, it constantly looked drought stressed and slightly wilted. The next spring, we dug it up and sure enough, it had only grown one tiny root outside of the original, intact circle the shape of the nursery pot. If we had left it long enough, it may have grown more roots and survived, but I doubt it ever would have been very healthy.

The best way to remedy this situation is to rearrange the plant's roots before putting it into the ground. To do this, fill a large bucket with water, then submerge the plant's roots into the water. Swish it around a bit and massage the roots; the idea is to wash off most of the soil so that you can see the structure of the roots. Once the roots are free of soil, they can be examined and, hopefully, untangled. This sounds pretty straightforward, but let me assure you that if you have a large plant, it can be a job for two people! Although the plant will almost certainly recover from a few broken or pruned roots, it is best to be as gentle as possible. Be sure the planting hole is ready before you strip the soil from the plant's roots, but if it is not ready immediately, the plant can wait a short time in the bucket of water (not in the blazing sun, however). When planting, make a small mound in the middle of the planting hole and spread the plant's roots around the mound, pointing down into the soil. Fill the hole with soil, being especially careful to avoid leaving air pockets around roots that could dry them out. Pat the soil down firmly and water the plant thoroughly.

Ensuring that a plant has healthy roots gives it the best possible start in your garden. If we had planted our poor cranberry bush this way the first time, it would have grown much better from the start. After we finally dug it up, washed and spread out its roots, and replanted it, it has been much healthier and happier.

Pollinators for Hardy Plums

2011-07-09T21:56:00.001-06:00

Many people are surprised to learn that good quality plums can easily be grown on the prairies. In fact, many good varieties are available that are hardy to zone 2, and some varieties, such as 'Pembina', are readily available even at big box stores. Although some people have poor yield on their plum trees, the problem is more likely a lack of adequate pollination rather than susceptibility to cold.

In an article in the Spring 2010 edition of the magazine Gardener for the Prairies, Rick Sawatzky outlines what kind of pollinators different plums need. In short, the main problem for many gardeners is that hybrid plums cannot be pollinated by other hybrids; they must be pollinated by wild plums, which are difficult to find. A city dweller's single apple tree will probably be well pollinated, as there is likely a compatible apple or crabapple tree nearby, but it is not as likely that their neighbour will have a plum tree suitable for pollination, and plums also need to be nearer than apples or pears for adequate pollination.

So what kind of pollinator do you need? There are three main types of plums: true wild varieties, salicina hybrid plums, and salicina plum cultivars (also sometimes called Asian plums). Wild plums can be difficult to find commercially, but you can look for the species names Prunus nigra, Canada plum, or Prunus americana, American plum. 'Dandy' and 'Bounty' are two cultivars sometimes sold as wild plums but which, according to researchers at the University of Saskatchewan, are not good pollinators and are probably actually hybrid varieties. Wild plums must be pollinated by other wild plums, but they will also pollinate all other varieties of plum, including hybrids, cultivars and even hybrid cherry plums.

Salicina plum cultivars (or Asian plums) are usually very hardy, with good tasting fruit that has a short shelf life. Some examples are the 'Ptitsin' series, 'Brookgold', 'Green Elf', 'Fofonoff' (also called 'Homesteader') and 'Ivanovka'. These plums will pollinate other plums of the same type only, and can be pollinated by either other salicina cultivars or wild plums.

The salicina hybrids were developed by crossing native wild plums with plum varieties from California that were not hardy, producing hardy trees with good quality fruit. These include 'Pembina' (sometimes called 'Prairie', 'Acme' or 'Elite'), 'Patterson Pride', 'Brookred', 'Geddes' and 'Perfection' (sometimes known as 'Superb'). These hybrids will only produce fruit if they are pollinated by a wild plum, and they do not provide pollination for any type of plum, including each other. This may explain why some growers have poor fruit production with these trees.

Hybrid cherry plums are crosses between the western sandcherry and Asian plums that grow into bushes three to six feet tall and produce smaller fruit. Any two of these varieties will pollinate each other, as well as pollinating sandcherries, and they can also be pollinated by wild plums.

Of all these varieties, 'Patterson Pride' is often considered to be a worthwhile cultivar, with sweet flesh and a thin skin, and a tree with an attractive weeping habit. But remember, it must be pollinated by a wild plum!

If you've been keeping track, you'll see that any planting of plums will require at least two trees. Two Asian plums will be sufficient, or you could choose a hybrid and a wild plum. But if you want fruit from the wild plum, you would need one hybrid and two wild plums (that's a lot of jam!). As long as you have one wild plum, however, you could plant any other type of plum or cherry plum and have adequate pollination. Some gardeners have success with grafting different varieties onto one tree, and some garden centres sell combination trees (but check to be sure the varieties are compatible). Of course, the most effective solution might be to convince your neighbour to plant a wild plum tree - good luck!

Do I Need Mycorrhizal Fungi When I Plant?

2011-06-08T20:02:00.000-06:00

I've noticed a huge surge in promotion for a product called "Myke" in my area, which is an innoculant of mycorrhizal fungi. Recent gardening books recommend is, blogs praise it, and I know of several garden centres that increase their usual one-year warranty to five years if you buy this stuff and use it when you plant. Since I always feel sceptical of miracle products, I wanted to find out if this is a genuinely effective product or just a money-maker. And, as always, the answer is probably somewhere in between.

The first question to answer is what, exactly, are mycorrhizal fungi? Simply put, they are a type of fungus that colonizes plant roots. The fungus and the roots form a symbiotic relationship with each other that is mutually beneficial. In exchange for nutrients from the plant, the fungi help plants absorb more moisture, phosphorus, nitrogen, and micronutrients from the soil, protect them from some diseases and even block the over-absorption of some heavy metals. There are many different kinds of these fungi, with probably more than 2000 species that have relationships with up to 90% of plant life.

The evidence is pretty clear that mycorrhizal fungi are beneficial to plant growth, and studies have shown that plants grown in sterile soils show better root growth when the appropriate mycorrhizal fungi are able to colonize the plants' roots. However, most commercial products are intended to be used in the garden, which is very far from a sterile environment. In fact, there are probably all sorts of these beneficial microorganisms already present in your soil. There are some situations, however, that might reduce their presence. These include fallow or monoculture situations, in which the appropriate host plants might not be present, recent fires, over-tilling, over-fertilization (especially with phosphorus), water-logged soils, or the application of systemic fungicides. After disturbance, mycorrhizal fungi will recolonize soils, but some types may move slowly and take many years to return. Many urban soils suffer from one or more of these problems, so many homeowners might feel that adding mycorrhizae could be beneficial to them.

Because there are so many different types of these fungi, commercial products contain a blend, in the hopes that one of the types included will be appropriate for the plant to which it is applied. However, the appropriate fungi may not be present in the blend, or the fungi added could actually be out-competed by native mycorrhizal organisms already present in the soil. The soil itself could also be inhospitable to the introduced species, having the wrong temperature, pH, or moisture level. Gardeners who use these products should avoid using it throughout soil, and ensure that it directly contacts plants' roots, where it has the best chance of survival.

On the topic of whether adding products containing mycorrhizal fungi when planting, the Ohio State University Extension tells us that "the available evidence is very inconsistent". These products will probably not harm plants, but whether or not it will help them seems to be a bit of a gamble. However, you can encourage the presence of beneficial fungi by nurturing healthy soils, and especially by avoiding the heavy use of phosphorus fertilizers. The old advice to add bone meal when planting to stimulate root growth may actually be harmful, as the excess phosphorus could inhibit the colonization of mycorrhizal fungi on the plant roots, actually slowing root growth.

Hopefully future research into this area will give us better answers about the effectiveness of these products; in the meantime, consumers should take marketers' claims with the proverbial grain of salt. For more reading on this topic, check out the fact sheets available from the University of Alaska Fairbanks and Ohio State University.

CowPots Review and Giveaway

2011-05-31T08:54:00.000-06:00

Many gardeners are familiar with peat pots, those square, grey pots you can start seedlings in and plant right into the ground. A new product on the market for gardeners who like to start their own seedlings is "CowPots", which are similar to the peat pots, but they are made from composted cow manure. This friendly company sent me several pots to try out, and they'd like to let you try them too! Leave a comment before June 10 for a chance to receive your own CowPots to try. (The winner will be selected randomly.)

Biodegradable pots are the best type of pot to use for plants that you want to start early but that don't transplant well, such as cucumbers or squash. Because the pot does not need to be removed, the roots are not disturbed and transplant shock is minimized. The simplicity of planting seedlings without removing the pot is ideal for children. And they provide convenience for gardeners who don't want to clean and store plastic pots. However, they are more expensive than plastic pots, and they cannot be reused.

CowPot with roots already growing out of pot

CowPots have some advantages over other types of biodegradable pots. The composted manure is more permeable to the plants' roots than other types of pots, such as peat. Many gardeners recommend tearing the peat pots off before planting, as roots are not always able to easily penetrate those pots. The CowPots I used, however, actually allowed the plant roots to grow out of the pots before they were even planted in soil! CowPots are also a good alternative to peat pots for gardeners who are concerned about the effect that peat harvesting has on fragile ecosystems, and the manure adds nutrients to the soil. Peat is also notorious for repelling water once it dries out. Because of this, gardeners must be extra careful to keep these pots well watered and make sure the edges of the pot don't stick out of the soil after planting, acting as a wick that dries the plant out. The CowPots did tend to dry out a little faster than plastic pots, but they absorbed water easily.

There were a couple downsides to these pots. Although the manufacturer claims that they are completely odour-free, I found that they did smell a bit like manure when I first planted in them and watered them. The smell was not strong, but it was distinctive, and it lasted for two or three days. After that, I didn't notice anything. Since I was growing them in the basement, it didn't bother me, but anyone using these might want to put them in an out-of-the-way place for the first couple of days, or until they germinate. The smell also may have been less if I hadn't put them on a heat mat. The other problem I experienced was in a flat that I had covered for a week or two while I was waiting for some seeds to germinate. I found some white mould grew right on the pots, but better ventilation may have prevented this.

Despite these small problems, I liked using these pots. One of my plants actually grew a root out of the side of its own pot and into the pot beside it, although most of my plants were better behaved than that. This made me feel comfortable planting the pots right into the soil without removing the pots. They also seemed to experience very little transplant shock, beginning to grow well only a couple of days after I planted them. I started some plants for my kids in them, and they were very easy for them to plant "all by myself". Overall, I was quite happy with the performance of these pots, since they did not break down before I wanted to plant them, but they appear to allow roots to easily grow into surrounding soil.

CowPots are available in Canada by mail-order from Vesey's, and will probably be available in stores next spring.

What Size of Fruit Tree Should I Plant?

2011-05-28T12:08:00.000-06:00

Four years ago, in the summer of 2007, I planted a "Cupid" cherry in our backyard. It was quite small when we bought it, maybe in its second year of growth, and cost $20. It is now in full bloom, almost six feet tall, carefully pruned into a tree form, and we are hoping to finally get some cherries from it this year.

Last week, in the spring of 2011, my parents planted a "Romeo" cherry in their backyard. Their tree, when they purchased it, was in full bloom, almost six feet tall, pruned into a tree form, and it cost $99. Transplant shock might affect their harvest this year, but they will almost certainly get a full harvest next year.

So who got a better deal on their tree? I saved $79, but lost out on four years of harvesting cherries. These plants are supposed to produce, when mature, twenty to thirty pounds of cherries per year. If I had planted a mature tree, it probably would have produced around eighty pounds of cherries over those four years. Even if I only valued the cherries at a dollar per pound (which is probably unreasonably cheap), I probably would have had enough cherries to at least pay for the increased price tag on a larger tree, and likely more.

Now, when I bought my tree, it was a new release, and not available in tree form. I also didn't have a hundred dollars to spend, but I was planning on staying in the house where I planted it for at least another five years, so I felt that I had more time than money. But if I ever have to buy a cherry tree again, I will consider spending more for a more mature specimen. When I look at how much fruit I had to forfeit to save $79, it doesn't really look like I saved anything after all.

How To Tell If Your Soil Is Ready to Plant In

2011-04-20T20:48:00.000-06:00

Although many gardeners here in Alberta "put the garden in" on the May long weekend, there are many kinds of vegetables that can be seeded in the garden much earlier, saving you the trouble of growing seedlings indoors and transplanting. For example, broccoli, beets, cabbage, Swiss chard, leaf lettuce, onions, peas, radishes, rutabaga, asparagus, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, turnips, parsnips and spinach can all be planted well before your last frost date. In fact, some seeding instructions will tell you to plant as soon as the soil can be worked. What does that mean?

Your soil is not ready to plant in if it is too wet. Working in wet soil compacts it, destroying the air spaces that are necessary for plant roots to grow in. Many prairie gardeners have clay soil which, although rich in nutrients, takes a long time to dry out in the spring and becomes very hard if it is compacted. To test soil for readiness, you could simply step in your garden and see if you leave wet footprints, or walk away with mud on your shoes. If you do, the soil is too wet. If you don't want muddy shoes, dig down a couple of inches and grab a handful of soil. If it easily squeezes into a round ball, it's too wet. It is ready for planting if it has a crumbly texture, instead.

If planting early in the spring doesn't sound like a fun idea, consider planting in the fall instead. When cleaning the garden up in the fall, prepare the beds as you would in the spring, and plant the spring seeds as close to the first snowfall as possible. This, of course, is a bit of a guessing game, but you don't want to plant them so early that they start to grow during a warm fall, and then die with the first hard frosts. Sow the seeds thicker than normal. They will usually lie dormant under the snow all winter, then sprout at just the right time in the spring! That's what I hear, anyway, but I've never been organized enough to try it myself.

Welcome Spring!

2011-04-15T14:19:00.000-06:00

It didn't look like spring this morning, with at least 10 cm of heavy, wet snow piled on the ground after yesterday's snowfall. But as I tried to brush the snow off my car this morning, it somehow felt like spring. Eventually I realised that it sounded like spring - was that a robin singing? Indeed it was, and I'm guessing the poor bird was wondering why it travelled so far to get here just to find everything under a blanket of white. But with more warm temperatures in the forecast, I'm sure this snow will slowly soak into the ground and provide us with that extra moisture we love for spring planting.

Gardening Books With a Local Focus

2011-04-06T13:10:00.000-06:00

Lone Pine Publishing is a Canadian company that focuses on publishing books about gardening and the outdoors with a regional focus. This year, they have published four new gardening books.

The best of the books is Gardening With Colour, by Rob Sproule. This book's main focus is on designing container plantings with annuals, specifically choosing plants that will thrive during the short growing season many Canadian gardeners encounter. (The author is co-owner of Salisbury Greenhouse near Edmonton, in zone 3.) The first section of this book explains how to design, plant and maintain a container garden and an explanation of the elements and principles of design, such as using the colour wheel, planning form, harmony or contrast, balance, repetition, scale and movement in the context of a container planting. The main part of the book gives "recipes" for container plantings (many of which are also suitable for beds). These recipes show where to place each plant to recreate the beautiful containers shown in the photographs. The recommended container size, height and spread of plants, sunlight, water and fertilizing needs are all included to help even beginning gardeners choose a design that will work in their chosen location. Next, each recommended plant is described in more detail, and several photographs are included of similar designs with some ideas for substitutions to help you create your own compositions. With sixty recipes, there are designs for every taste and level of experience. Beginners need only follow the instructions, but even experienced gardeners are sure to find some new ideas for filling baskets, pots and beds.

Vegetable Gardening for Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba, by Laura Peters, is also published in editions for British Columbia and Ontario. This book is a handy guide for vegetable gardeners who want basic information about growing specific vegetables. The growing needs of forty-one vegetables are covered, including most of the basics (tomatoes, onions, lettuce) and some uncommon ones, such as sunchokes, amaranth and dandelions. Each vegetable description includes information on seed planting, when to plant relative to your area's last frost date, light requirements, preferred soil type and moisture levels, when to harvest, recommended species or cultivars for the prairies, the most common pests or diseases, ideas for incorporating the plants into the design of your garden and photos. There is also a pest and disease guide with some pictures, but it is very basic and will most likely be only a starting point, especially for serious problems. Although this is far from being a comprehensive vegetable growing manual, it has enough information to get those veggies in the ground and on the table.

Just Ask Jerry, by Jerry Filipski, is based on the author's gardening column for the Edmonton Journal newspaper. He includes a list of important tools to get you started, with a discussion on improving soil, composting and mulching. Most of the rest of the book takes a Question and Answer format taken from the newspaper column, and covers soil, vegetable gardening, lawns, perennials, container gardening and trees and shrubs. The author's experience as a landscape contractor seems to give him a focus on basic construction, planting and maintenance issues, and his solutions, although generally based on his own experience, seem generally sound and will probably give local gardeners success. This book focuses on problems gardeners have and their solutions, and so could be a handy resource for local gardeners that are looking for ways to overcome problems they encounter while maintaining their yards.

Beginner Gardening for Canada, by A. H. Jackson, shows its biggest flaw right in the title. The author seems to consider our rather large country to be easily generalized. The recommendations for trees, shrubs and perennials include no hardiness ratings, and a large portion of them are not hardy in many parts of the country. Despite this, some of these plants include reassurances that they will grow in "northern urban centres" or that they can easily be protected or "winterized". My personal feeling is that any guide that wants to provide success for beginner gardeners should only lead them to buy fully hardy specimens to avoid the discouragement of losing expensive plants. While there is some good, basic information in this book to get a beginner started, a lot of the instructions are vague or, even direct you to just look it up on the internet. This might be a good book to get a gardener started if they, like the author, live in Toronto and they don't mind some very opinionated statements ("Decks: A Bad Idea"), but this probably isn't the book to get a cold-climate novice started.

All these books are available through the publisher's website. You may also see them on display in the gardening section of a local retailer like Canadian Tire, or at your local library.

Fungus Gnats

2011-03-09T22:00:00.000-07:00

Fungus gnats are a common pest of indoor plants. They generally feed on decaying matter in soil, but while in the larval stage, they also often feed on plant roots and sometimes even soft stems, which can especially damage seedlings. Even if they are not damaging plants, the adults, which resemble fruit flies or small mosquitoes, can be quite a nuisance as they swarm around your plants and your house!

Fungus gnat larvae are small, whitish maggots with black heads that are about half a centimetre at their largest. If you poke around in your potting soil with a dibber or a pencil, you can often see them if they are present. The adults are not strong fliers, and they are often found on top of soil or resting on plant stems and leaves. Fungus gnats can complete an entire life cycle within three weeks, so a small population can quickly explode. On the plus side, they are short-lived, so eradication, if an effective method is found, should not take very long.

Fungus gnat larvae on a dime

Fungus gnats can be prevented, controlled and eradicated. To prevent them, sterilize potting soil (especially if it has been stored outdoors) and isolate newly purchased plants and houseplants that are brought indoors after a summer outside until you are certain they are not infested (at least three weeks). To control them, yellow sticky paper can be used to trap some adults, which are attracted to the colour yellow. These traps can also alert you to their presence before they become too numerous. Plants should also never be overwatered; these flies prefer to live and reproduce in damp soil. A thin layer of sand over the top of the soil can prevent the flies from laying eggs, as it dries out quickly. To completely eradicate fungus gnats, there are several pesticides available. These must be applied several times to kill all stages of the life cycle. If you prefer not to use pesticides, you may wish to either discard affected plants or change the soil, then cover them to prevent the flies from laying new eggs. If you choose this method, be sure there are no other plants nearby that they could choose as a new home.

Thrips

2011-01-29T16:19:00.001-07:00

Thrips are small insects that are commonly found in garden plants, but occasionally turn up to infest houseplants during winter months. Their appearance can often be blamed on plants being brought indoors with insects, eggs or larvae on them, from which they can spread to other plants.

Thrips can be identified by their size; they are very small, less than a millimetre wide and only a couple millimetres long. There are several different types of thrips, but most of them are dark in colour. They are difficult to see because of their small size, but they will often appear in groups on buds and blossoms. They can run, fly weakly, and jump.

Thrips can also be identified by the damage they cause to plants. These insects feed by piercing and scraping leaves and flowers, causing damage that often looks silvery and spotted. Small, brownish specks are sometimes found, and are the bugs' droppings.

Thrips often don't cause severe damage, but they can stunt young plants, cause a lot of damage to flowers, and transmit diseases between plants. Unfortunately, they are difficult to control, since eggs are inserted into plant tissues, and young and adult insects are adept at hiding in plants and soil. Washing plants, removing infested flowers and keeping growing temperatures cool and humidity high can help control them, but if the infested plant is not valuable, throwing it out may be the best way to keep the infestation from spreading. Insecticidal soaps or oils can be effective against thrips, but they must contact the insects. Blue or yellow sticky cards can alert you to the presence of thrips and provide some control of adult populations. If pesticides are desired, use a spray containing bifenthrin, permethrin, resmethrin, pyrethrins or neem oil every one to two weeks.

Preventing Household Plant Pests

2011-01-22T20:22:00.000-07:00

Although it's possible to control or even eliminate most plant pests, it is easier and much more effective to prevent them.

One way to prevent insects from invading your house is to avoid bringing them in. Although nobody would ever purposely bring plant pests into their home, bugs often hitch a ride on plants that are brought into the house. Even plants purchased from the best greenhouses can harbour insect eggs or larvae, and any plants that spend the summer outside can easily cause a problem when they are brought in for the winter. Thoroughly washing the leaves of these plants will minimize the number of insects that remain on them, and keeping the plant separate from other plants for a couple of weeks will allow you to deal with any pest problems before they spread.

Avoid attracting bugs to your plants by removing any dead or dying leaves and disposing of them. Dead plant materials that are left lying around attract the types of pests that feed off them, and could harbour eggs or larvae as well.

Sometimes insect eggs or larvae can also be present in soil or potting mixes. This problem can be avoided by sterilizing the soil before planting. This can be done in the oven. Set the oven to about 200ºF and place the moist soil in a covered container. Use a meat thermometer to monitor the temperature. The soil must be heated to 180ºF and maintained at that temperature for 30 minutes. Do not let it get hotter than 200ºF, as this can make the soil toxic. Although I have never tried this, apparently it will make your entire house smell very strongly (and unpleasantly) of dirt. Using a microwave apparently is less smelly and equally effective, but since microwave ovens vary in power, it may need to be more closely monitored. Place moist soil in a loosely covered, microwave-safe bowl and heat on full power for about 90 seconds per kilogram of soil, or 45 seconds per pound. If you are using a plastic container, such as a yogurt container, poke a hole in the lid to allow steam to escape. Allow the soil to cool, covered, in the microwave before removing it. Another method of sterilizing the soil is to pour boiling water over it, but you will need to be fairly creative to prevent your soil from simply washing away.

If you are going to sterilize your soil, you might as well also sterilize seedling trays, pots, and any other equipment you might have. This is fairly easy compared to sterilizing soil: simply wash them clean and rinse them in a 10:1 solution of water and bleach (ten parts water to one part bleach). This is good practise for any previously used potting containers, but especially ones that had insect pests in them and may still be harbouring eggs or larvae.

Try not to overwater or underwater plants, as too dry or too wet conditions can allow certain types of pests to flourish. Good growing conditions also create healthy plants that are more able to withstand insect attacks. Checking plants every couple of days can give you an early warning of any problems, allowing you to keep a small problem from becoming a big one. Several plant pests are attracted to the colour yellow, so hanging a yellow-coloured card coated in a sticky substance, such as Tanglefoot or double-sided tape, can catch some pests and give you an early warning of their invasion.

Fall Wrap-Up

2010-11-08T15:04:00.000-07:00

What worked and what didn't this year? Fall is a great time to look back at the summer and decide what to try again next year, and what just wasn't worth the trouble.

Tomatoes: This year was too rainy and just not hot enough for a good crop of tomatoes. We hardly got any ripe ones off the vine, even though we planted early varieties. We'll just have to hope for better luck next year, but I can definitely say that the variety 'Celebrity' had much better flavour than 'Orange Blossom', although serving alternating red and orange tomato slices on a tray was visually pleasing.

Ground Cherry: The cute little seedling we planted in the spring quickly became a bit of a monster in the garden, so we'll plan for more space if we ever try this again. Unfortunately, we got a lot of flowers and no fruit, so I'm guessing that there was a pollination issue. Either we didn't have enough bees, or maybe they need more than one plant to produce fruit. Either way, it was a bust.

Carrots: This year we planted the variety 'Purple Haze'. The early carrots were only a little purple in the skin, but the ones we pulled at the end of the season were a very deep purple colour about halfway through, with a bright orange core. The flavour was about average, since they aren't the sweeter Nantes type, but I felt they were worth growing for the colour alone. I served them to some family members to varied reactions. Some people think purple carrots are neat, others won't eat them! They also grew quite large.

'Cupid' Sour Cherry Tree: The birds ate all five cherries. We'll have to try bird netting next year.

Alpine Strawberries: Our rainy summer was bad for the tomatoes, but the strawberries were abundant. Since this was the second year we've had them, the plants were much more established, and the berries were bigger, some the size of a dime. They were very sweet and delicious, producing from the last frost in spring to about the end of August, with a few sporadic berries into October. The birds enjoyed these too, but there were lots to go around.

Peas: We grew 'Super Sugar Snap'. The yield, as promised, was quite good, but I think 'Sugar Sprint' had better flavour for a snap pea. And the shelling peas we grew last year were even tastier, but the snap peas provide more food.

Sunflowers: We grew 'Moulin Rouge', a deep burgundy variety. The plants were about five feet tall, with lots of small to medium sized flowers. Because the petals were so dark, they didn't stand out very well. I would like to try one of the bitones next time for more contrast. We're leaving them up over the winter in the hopes that they'll attract birds (and because we're too lazy to pull them out).

Cucumbers: I have transplanted cucumbers successfully in the past, but this year they didn't make it. I've always read that they don't transplant well, but now I know. I think the trick to moving them successfully is not to start them too early. If they get rootbound in the pot, they won't go into the ground easily. I managed to save most of the plants, but they sort of struggled on most of the summer, only putting out a couple (not too tasty) fruit before finally giving up.

Garlic: We planted the kind that's meant to be planted instead of buying it at the grocery store. The bulbs weren't any bigger (but they might have been if we weeded more), but the bulbs separated into cloves much better.

We also put in some perennials this year. Some flowered and some didn't, but we won't really know what was a success until they've been through a winter.

Is It Too Late to Plant?

2010-07-19T21:32:00.000-06:00

At more than halfway through July, some gardeners may be wondering if it is too late to put in trees, shrubs or perennials. After all, many garden centres have some very attractive prices at this time of year, as they try to clear out some of the extra stock they received in the spring. As long as the plant you are considering is healthy, it is not too late to add it to your garden. Remember, a neglected, half-dead plant is never a bargain, unless perhaps it is free.

In fact, this has been an ideal summer so far for establishing new woody plants and perennials. Although we had some hot weather in the spring, the mild temperatures and extensive rains that Edmonton has received recently are perfect for plants trying to develop their root systems. Even drought-tolerant plants need extra water in the first year or two after planting to help them become established, and extra rain saves gardeners the trouble of standing outside with a hose every couple of days. Mild temperatures also prevent plants with small root systems from being scorched by the sun.

Although spring is generally the best time to plant, most trees, shrubs and perennials can be planted throughout the summer. Many gardeners even recommend planting trees and shrubs in the fall, but that practise generally works better in climates less prone to early frosts than it does here in zone 3. However, as long as the plant has adequate time to develop its roots before becoming dormant in the fall, you are likely to have success with later plantings. During the winter, when the plant is dormant, it still requires some water, but usually cannot take it up from the frozen ground. Since this will be a bigger problem for a plant with a limited root system, special care should be taken to water recently planted plants into the fall, even if they appear dormant.

Even if a newly planted tree or shrub experiences some winterkill during its first winter, as our hardy cherry did, it is likely to do better in subsequent years, as it becomes more established. Although this seems like a setback, it will allow the plant an earlier start in the spring than if it was only planted that year, so summer planting can be a great idea.

Gardening During Pregnancy

2010-07-07T20:45:00.000-06:00

If you are young, female, and want both a garden and a family, there is a good chance that you will, at some point, be gardening while pregnant. If this is the case, here are some things to think about before and during your pregnancy.

Always wear gloves: This is good advice for anybody, but it is especially important during pregnancy. Free-roaming cats often deposit faeces in gardens that can infect anyone who comes in contact with them with a parasite that causes toxoplasmosis. Although many people are infected with this disease, and the symptoms are usually very mild, they can be severe for pregnant women infected for the first time, as well as causing harm to the developing foetus.

Get up to date on vaccines: Although good garden gloves can prevent some exposure to the bacteria that cause tetanus, there is always a risk from puncture wounds. Getting your shot before you become pregnant is a good idea, but if there is any possibility of exposure, the tetanus shot is considered safe to receive during pregnancy. Some combination shots, however, are not, so be sure the doctor administering the vaccine knows you are expecting.

Plan a spring baby: I know, babies don't always come when it's convenient, but there are several advantages to having a baby in the spring. You won't have to work in the garden while heavily pregnant, and when the baby does come, some peaceful work in the garden can be just the break you need after rocking a crying baby for hours. Other advantages to having a spring baby include not being pregnant during the hottest part of the year (torture!), avoiding cold and flu season while your baby is still very young, and being able to let older, preschool-aged sibling entertain themselves outside during good weather when you most need them to.

Don't be ambitious: If you are having a summer baby, don't spend all winter reading seed catalogues and planning to redo your yard. I guarantee that you'll regret it when you discover that stooping over and digging are much harder than usual, and that your husband's promises to help don't include every item that you imagined. If that new bed really can't wait, try to get the hard work out of the way as early in the year as possible. Use tools like mulch, automated watering timers and soaker hoses to reduce chores like weeding and watering for the rest of the summer. And, of course, don't worry about perfection; there's not much chance for that once you have kids anyway.

Consider planting a tree: Some families plant a tree for every child that is born. This seems like a very nice idea that you might like to try. However, it might not be a good idea if you are planning on moving, you have a small yard and are planning a large family, or you don't think you can keep it alive (the tree). Another option might be to plant a long-lived perennial, such as a peony, or a shrub. I've never done this, because as bad as it is to kill a tree, shrub or plant, I imagine it's much worse to kill somebody's special tree, shrub or plant.

And if your pregnancy seems to be never-ending, I've heard that digging new garden beds is a great way to induce labour. I'm not recommending that, of course, but I hear it can be very effective!

Growing Sweet Woodruff

2010-06-16T21:33:00.000-06:00

Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) is a perennial groundcover generally considered to be hardy to zone 4, although some sources put it in zone 5, while others claim it is hardy to zone 3. There are varying opinions about this plant, from "invasive nuisance" to "beautiful groundcover".

In our fourth year of growing this plant in zone 3, I think of it as a wonderful groundcover, although I can see why some gardeners might view it as a nuisance. The tiny clump we first planted has now spread to cover a large area, and although it's taken over a couple of sweet peas planted from seed and a delicate alpine plant that was failing anyway, we have high hopes that it will beat out the lilac suckers that come through our fence from our neighbours' yard. In short, it is a thick groundcover, about 15 cm tall, that easily crowds out weeds. However, the roots and spreading stems are quite shallow, so transplanting and controlling the spread of this plant are both fairly simple. Although it isn't too picky, it seems to prefer some sun to full shade in cold climates, and appreciates some amendments to the soil before planting.

Although this plant grows very well for me in my backyard garden, I have killed some by transplanting it in front of our house. I also gave some to a relative in Calgary (also zone 3), in whose shady bed it never really took off. However, a stem that appeared to have no roots that my three-year old "planted" in our newly dug and amended front garden this year is actually growing and flowering. I believe that this plant will grow well in our area, as long as it gets a little sun, a little TLC before planting, and good snow cover over the winter.

Sweet woodruff: tough enough to plant around the sandbox

Besides crowding out the dandelions and chickweed, what else is this plant good for? Even during our cold winters, it often emerges from the under the snow with some green growth, giving it a good head start when your garden needs it most. The tiny white flowers appear in clusters above the leaves in the spring, giving it the alternate common name "wild baby's breath". In a large clump or mass, the display is very pretty, and the plants sometimes rebloom in summer. The tiny flowers are also sweetly scented, and stems will last about a week in a glass of water. An established clump can also supply plenty of flowers to pick even for very enthusiastic children, without showing the bare patches. And the foliage itself also smells wonderful and may repel moths when it is dried, making it a good ingredient in homemade potpourri.

Cupid Cherry in Bloom

2010-05-19T21:15:00.000-06:00

'Cupid' cherry is part of a line of very hardy bush cherries developed at the University of Saskatchewan for superior flavour and hardiness. Although technically they are sour cherries, several of the cultivars are supposed to be sweet enough for fresh eating. All of them grow between 6 and 8 feet tall, making them either a large shrub or a dwarf tree.

We purchased our 'Cupid' cherry as a small plant in 2007, so it is now going into its fourth summer in our yard. Last year it produced only a few blooms and two shrivelled cherries, but it may have done better if we hadn't moved it. This year, however, it has burst into bloom, giving us high hopes that we'll finally get to taste some fruit.

'Cupid' Sour Cherry

You may also notice that I am attempting to prune this into a tree form. From everything I'd read, this seemed like it would be fairly simple, but at about five feet high and with a bit of a crooked "trunk", this tree looks a little odd so far. I'm hoping it will look better when it reaches its full size, since there's been far too much time and energy invested into this plant to even think about replacing it. And we really want to taste those cherries!

Lindenberg Perennials

2010-05-14T14:42:00.000-06:00

This year is the first year I've ordered seeds and bare-root perennials from a mail-order catalogue. I ordered from Lindenberg Seeds because their catalogue, while not glossy, has good selection, their prices are reasonable, and they offer free shipping if you order $40 or so. They sent all the seeds a long time ago (plus a free packet of sweet peas), but the perennials get shipped out later in the season.

When the box of perennials finally arrived, the roots looked reasonably sized and healthy, but most of them were already sprouting. I planted them as soon as I could so they wouldn't waste away, but then an unexpected spring blizzard rolled in. We piled leaves over them to protect them, and we were lucky to get a good blanket of insulating snow that stayed as long as the temperatures were low. Although all the roots should be hardy, I was afraid the new growth (which probably sprouted in a warm post office) would not be acclimated to cold weather.

Now that we're having nice weather again, most of the perennials appear to have made it through the cold. Most of them are green, and many appear to be growing. In fact, the cool temperatures and extra moisture may have helped them settle in better than this hot, dry weather would have. I'll have a better idea how successful we've been later in the year, but so far, I think I'm happy with the shipment that we received. I would even order from Lindenberg again, if I had any money left!

Spring Gardening

2010-05-03T14:53:00.000-06:00

This past weekend was perfect for getting some work done in the garden, not only because of the decent weather, but because my box of bare-root perennials arrived from Lindenberg's, most of them already starting to grow. This pale, unhealthy-looking growth means the plants need soil, water and light right away, so we either had to pot them up indoors (but I didn't have that many big pots or enough potting soil) or plant them outside. So we really couldn't procrastinate any more.

The best thing we did was take down our last, ugly lilac bush. We also dug a new bed in our front yard, which up until now was mostly bare dirt and moss anyway. Then we planted all the perennials that came in the mail, mulched them with last year's leaves, and now we're praying that we don't get any hard frosts, since that new growth probably isn't acclimated to cold weather. If it does get cold at night, we'll just have to throw more leaves on them and hope for the best. So far, the coneflowers and the ostrich ferns are starting to look green, and hopefully the rest of them will perk up soon.

The alpine strawberries we planted last year are already blooming, so we have high hopes for more strawberries this year. The arctic kiwi is starting to leaf out, although it appears to have suffered some die-back. Our cupid cherry is also leafing out and showed no die-back, but it looks a little sad because I pruned quite a few of its branches off. I'm trying to train it into a small tree, but it looks pretty pathetic right now. Hopefully it will look better when it grows a bit more. The hardy rosebush we planted last year looks great, with lots of leaves right to the ends of its branches. We were also pleasantly surprised to find a lily coming up that I thought had died, although it was a little disconcerting to find it with a shovel while digging a hole for something else.

It's wonderful to see so many things that we planted a year or two ago coming back and making good progress, so now we're just hoping to see some success with the plants we put in this year.

Things to Do Right Now

2010-04-14T15:03:00.000-06:00

Although it's still pretty windy and cold outside today, the weather is warming and it could hit 20 degrees this weekend, a perfect day for some work in the garden. If you haven't already started, there's plenty to do to get the garden started.

Care for trees, shrubs and perennials: If you haven't already, be sure to pull any mulch away from the crowns or trunks of these plants. You want to allow them enough air so they don't rot, and enough light so they can grow. It might be a good idea to leave the mulch on the beds, however, to protect against any cold snaps that come. And with a dry spring so far, with more dry weather forecasted, all your perennial plants, but especially your trees, will appreciate a good soaking.

Start seeds indoors: It's not too late to start tomatoes, peppers, and basil from seed, either under lights or in a sunny windowsill. Melons, summer and winter squash, and cucumbers can all be direct seeded in the garden at the end of May, but you can give them a head start by planting them indoors within the next couple of weeks. Many annuals can also be seeded indoors to give them an early advantage.

Plant seeds outdoors: Many vegetables are frost tolerant and can be planted outdoors even this early. These include broccoli, beets, cabbage, Swiss chard, leaf lettuce, onions, peas, radishes, asparagus, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, parsnips and spinach. Garlic sets should also be set out right away to give them time to mature before fall.

Care for your lawn: As long as your grass isn't still soggy from melting snow, now is a good time to apply a topdressing of compost or manure (if you didn't in the fall), lightly aerate, and reseed any bare patches. The grass seed will germinate better with less supplemental watering if it is planted before the weather gets hot.

Although it may seem early for gardening, early spring can be a much more pleasant time to get some hard work in than the sweltering days of summer. This is also a good time to dig new beds, move sod, remove large shrubs... or just make a list of all the things you'll get done this fall!

Emergency Surgery for Tomatoes

2010-04-07T15:09:00.000-06:00

My spring seed starting is going well, with quite a few seedlings coming up. Alpine strawberries, Jacob's ladder, bee balm and columbine have all germinated reasonably well, but my tomatoes seem to be having a few problems. This might be partly because of the low temperatures they are subject to in my basement, but I'm hoping that once they germinate, they will grow stronger and stockier at the cooler temperature.

Two of my tomato plants that came up seemed to have a difficult time breaking through the seed coat. One in particular (the variety 'Celebrity') had been up for almost a week, but it was just a stem with the seed still on top, unable to get its leaves out. I left it for so long to see if it could manage to break out, but after so many days I was afraid it would soon use up all its stored energy and die if it couldn't get any light on its leaves. The only thing to do was try to break the seed myself.

The stems of new seedlings are very fragile, so I was very careful to handle only the seed coat (which was very hard). I cracked it with my fingernail enough so the leaves, which I could see inside, should be able to unfurl. I didn't pull it off, as that could have pulled the leaves off with it. Hopefully it will now be able to grow successfully. The other tomato that had the same problem hadn't been trapped as long, and was much easier to free. This operation may also have been easier with a pair of tweezers and some sharp scissors.

I've never seen a seedling with this problem before, but something unusual often turns up. Last year, one of my tomato seeds produced twins, two small plants growing from a single seed. Apparently this is common when growing citrus fruits from seed, and the two plants will be genetically identical.

Storing Potatoes

2010-03-18T15:26:00.000-06:00

I grew some tasty pink-fleshed potatoes last summer, and I was hoping to save some of the smaller tubers to replant this spring. Unfortunately, they decided to get a jump-start on the season and start growing a little early:

I kept them in a dark cupboard in my kitchen, but potatoes prefer a cooler location than that. Ideally, they should be stored at a cool temperature, between 6 and 15 degrees Celsius or so, and with a high relative humidity. Storing them in a perforated plastic bag, like they come in at the grocery store, can help to maintain humidity around the potatoes while still allowing them to breathe. A cool, dark place in an unheated part of the basement may have been more successful. Unfortunately, I won't be able to try this variety again this summer because of my storage failure.

Early Spring Weather

2010-03-08T09:37:00.000-07:00

Although it's only early March, we have been having beautiful, spring-like weather lately. In fact, quite a bit of the snow in our yard has melted, revealing a few surprises.

Our alpine strawberries, which I worried about all winter, appeared a bit flattened, but still green, with new growth appearing. In fact, they didn't look like they went dormant at all this winter. Now that their protective snow cover is gone, however, the heavy frosts at night are turning the leaves the brown and reddish colours we expected to see last fall. I'm hoping this damage doesn't hurt their chances of growing well this summer - they should be able to cope with the cold temperatures as long as their root systems are strong enough to regrow when the weather is a little more appropriate.

Alpine Strawberries

Our chives have also been trying to emerge for a few days. There are several shoots of green growth with brown ends that have also obviously been damaged by cold temperatures. Our creeping thyme, however, looks about the same as it did in the fall.

Creeping Thyme

Although it's exciting to see so much growth so early in the year, early warm weather followed by hard freezes can cause more "winter" damage than cold temperatures in the middle of winter do, since it is tender, new growth that is damaged. Although mulch should be pulled away from the stems of woody plants to prevent rot, it can be left on the soil to keep it cool and prevent plants from breaking dormancy too early.

How to Grow Gooseberries

2010-02-17T08:39:00.006-07:00

Why have I never eaten a gooseberry? These tart, green or red berries were once very popular in North America, as they are very hardy and easy to grow. However, early in the 1900s, gooseberries and currants were discovered to be an alternate host of the white pine blister rust disease that was threatening populations of pines. Because of this, many gooseberry (and currant) plantings were removed, and growing these plants is still illegal in some areas (special permits are required in Idaho, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Vermont and Washington). Removing these plants hasn't been very successful in combating the disease, however, so gooseberries and currants are regaining some of their popularity.

Gooseberries are very hardy, and are even said to grow better in latitudes further north. They can tolerate some shade, and may even appreciate some protection from hot afternoon sun. Good air circulation will help reduce their susceptibility to mildew, as will planting newer, mildew-resistant varieties. Gooseberries will also grow in most soil conditions, although they prefer a soil that is not too acid, or slightly alkaline. In fact, it seems that they will grow almost anywhere, as long as they get some sun. They are usually quite compact, with most varieties growing no more than about three feet tall, and are self-fertile, which means they don't need another plant nearby to set fruit, which makes them a welcome addition to a small garden.

Most gooseberries are quite tart in flavour and sport large thorns. Like tart, prickly raspberries, they are often used in preserves, although there are many new varieties that are sweet enough to eat right off the bush, and won't attack you for your troubles.

Pixwell and Welcome are two varieties with tart, red berries. Pixwell holds its berries away from its thorns, making picking easier, and Welcome has few thorns at all. Pembina Pride and Invicta have tart green berries. If you are looking for a gooseberry that can be eaten off the bush (when it's fully ripe!) try
Thoreson, which is very hardy and prolific, as well as having few thorns, or Hinnomaki Yellow and Hinnomaki Red, which are both fairly sweet and very hardy.

Gooseberry bushes need little pruning, but they can be thinned by cutting out canes that are more than four or five years old to improve their production. They are also easily propagated by cuttings or layering, and will generally bear a large crop in their fourth year.