Cinderella' Slipper

2.3 - Carrie is back!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 31 Aug 2017 12:46:00 +0000

Do you remember Carrie Bradshaw? The women' s hero fighting in love with Mr.Big? Well, it seems this character never leaves one of my favourite actresses I met for the first time in Hocus Pocus movie: Sarah Jessica Parker.

We admired her "metamorphosis" from that always-glamorous dark pointy hat side by side with her witch-sisters played by Bette Midler and Kathy Najimy to her daily fashion outfits on Sex and The City set. It seems the shoe love she showed by the amazing Carrie was true!

Rumors speak about a Fall Winter 2017 Capsule Collection (Amazon exclusivity) in footwear. This new line ofc branded with the full name of this actress regards shoes and boots with heels....dear Sex-And-The-City fans, get it?

When I read this for the first time I immediately thought about that blue Carrie's Manolo...that Hangisi pumps.

Pin as follows: I discovered this evergreen-item-in-the-whole-female-genre-wishlist will be updated with a lace version by the wonderful Manolo Blahnìk himself soon (further details here: Updated Hangisi).

Well, the SJP' s collection will include something similar: the Fawn decolletè (in the pic) available in three blue tones (Dash, Flirt and Wink) - to Amazon's delight.

To be honest this brand has been founded by the actress since 2014. Last March SJP launched a made-in-US bag collection. Thanks to this collaboration with Amazon Fashion (fully made in Italy) this brand will burst into the European market.

Sarah, better known by female fans as Carrie, remarks her choice to invest in high quality footwear leading her to start producing her shoes in Tuscany, Italy, by third-generation hand-crafts (category aka artists to me). Ofc this means also medium-high prices (from EUR 170 to 500) .

Check the website here: SJP Collection

In the homepage of the above mentioned website you can easily stop on a sentence well summing up Sarah's concept of her shoe collection:

"Created with a Commitment to Quality, the Single sole and using color as a Neutral"

Meanwhile we're now excited in waiting for the Capsule Collection feat. Amazon Fashion, the Pre-Fall 17 footwear collection of the brand is already available in said website. Many trending colors, shapes, heels among which you can choose a new pair of shoes to start a new office outfit after your summer holidays in perfect Carrie's style!

...Does SJP let any woman feel like Carrie just for one day?

Sources:

2.2 - Michael Kors' eyes on Jimmy Choo

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 22 Aug 2017 19:59:00 +0000

Hei man, do you think your wife/ girlfriend/daughter spend lots of money to buy one pair of shoes? Well, I'm almost to shock you.

Since last Tuesday the web community has been going crazy for the last "gold" (I'm not using this word by chance) fashion news. Fashion victims, influencers, journalists and business professionals are tweetting on the coming-most-expensive-fashion-acquisition of the year: Michael Kors is buying Jimmy Choo for $1.2 Billion. The global Stock Exchange reacts to the announcement of this acquisition as follows: "shares of Michael Kors edged up 1% in pre-market trading, while shares of Jimmy Choo surged 17% in London" (Forbes).

This deal involves two of the most loved fashion brands by celebrities although they appeal different segments of worldwide population.

MK Holding group is improving its business strategy in combining new shoes with its famous bags so to build a bigger international luxury brand. Its intention to give new pull to the brand justifies its eyes on the fabulous JChoo.

Jimmy Choo, on its side, occupies a higher price range between $425 (Open-toe slip-on sandals) and $3,000 ( crystal-encrusted shoes with the brand’s signature sky-high stilettos). This means different customer targets, ofc, but also hefty profit margins and an upmarket aura. The British brand was put on sale in April and Mr. Kors (here below) wants it!

Mr. Michael Kors himself said:-""We admire the glamorous style and trend-setting nature of Jimmy Choo designs"

Fashion customers traditionally loyal to middle market (finding a balance between style and price) have been satisfied by e-commerce. This have facilitated, on one side, some brands like Amazon, Zara, H&M as well as some top brands such as Gucci. The same exposed some companies, on the other side, such as Michael Kors - "once the runaway leader of the “accessible luxury market”".

Despite the general trend of fashion retailers facing said recent fierce competition by e-commerce, Michael Kors is additionally "in the process of closing 100 to 125 of its standalone stores, renovating another 100-plus stores and doubling down on more innovative designs". (Forbes)

Michael Kors' strategy to build a great American fashion luxury brand seems therefore well matching with the chance by Jimmy Choo.

So far, MK has usually focused on a balance between fashion-forward designs and competitive prices. It invested on outlets and department stores, where deep discounting is common. According to The New York Times Michale Kors needs an update to divert its recent market trend, btw: the one-decade-effects of its charismatic designer and founder ask for new inspirations always based on his motto:

every woman wants to look “pretty and rich.”

The below table shows how the market trend of this brand has languished since 2011. In particular, it downgraded its sale forecasts for the second half of that year so to close "as many as 125 of its full-price retail stores". In 2017 its share price has lost almost a fifth of its value (now $34,91).

Now things seem changing in favour of MK's plans. Proof of this is the recent strange "battle" between these two brands: meanwhile Jimmy Choo was putting in the market its Molly crushed velvet high heel sandals ($875), Michael Kors answered with its Annaliese leather platform sandals ($140)." Since April (time to sale) Jimmy Choo has tried to avoid the Chinese interest on its assets. At this regard Mr. Pierre Danis, its chief executive officer (with previous executive experience non-other-than for LVMH), said as follows:

“I was afraid it would fall into the hands of a Chinese private equity fund with no experience in luxury and I think John Idol is a successful man who has built a great business with Kors, I think there are a lot of synergies — in bags for Jimmy Choo and shoes for Kors.”

The MK Chief Executive, Mr. Idol, is instead focused on increasing the number of acquisitions involving luxury companies "that “lead in style and trend” but also “have got some size and scale” as well as “some heritage.”" All this to reach the above mentioned MK's goal about a big American fashion luxury brand. Particularly, Mr. Idol said:

“Acquiring Jimmy Choo is the beginning of a strategy that we have for building a luxury group that really is focused on international fashion brands,”

This deal then could represent a great opportunity for MK (1) to enter in the high luxury market, (2) to increase sales and (3) to diversify/ improve this decreasing trend.

Terms&Conditions of this deal should set that Jimmy Choo would maintain its current management (including the chief executive Pierre Denis and its Art Director, Sandra Choi). Reason why Company's board of director support this business transaction by promoting this to shareholders. According to the New York Times, behind the Contracting Parties: Goldman Sachs and J.P. Morgan advised Michael Kors, while Bank of America Merrill Lynch and Citigroup advised Jimmy Choo.

MK forecasts are to open new Jimmy Choo stores and expand its fashion offerings (even online) to reach the goal of $1 billion sales/year. This in an overall perspective increasingly investing in e-commerce and social media, by leaving the new entry independent. MK's top management seems sharing JC's business plan so to promote its further implementation. Moreover, the already mentioned MK's plan to get in fashion luxury under US flag seems considering men's footwear, as well. In this view, thanks to this acquisition MK could get in new markets (in Asia, for example, where Jimmy Choo is already playing its role).

What does this mean to other shoemakers?

Other European luxury groups focused instead on long-term strategies to maintain "an illusion of exclusivity", while their US colleagues have been preferring short-term sales despite the luxury reputation.

The MK strategy well reminds to the one of Coach, rather than to LVMH and Kering, which focuses on true luxury brands. In particular, these last two groups are at a more advanced stage of development by already controlling dozens of brands.Who knows if MK Holding group succeeds in such a "fashionable" run-up?!

Sources:

2.1 - Painters of Stilettos

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 22 Aug 2017 19:54:00 +0000

Recently, I've been fascinated by shoes drawings. Usually Shoe Designers draw the model they've got in mind before starting making prototypes for their production. In the Manolo Blanhìk Exhibition I had chance to personally watch some of MB sketches matching with their prototypes.

In addition to Shoe Designers there is another category of artists focusing on the same subject for portraits. Let me introduce you just three of the most creative ones.

First, Inna Panasenko. This Caucasian multicultural artist based in Germany has got two main topics for her art: bulls as to her objection to Corrida; high heels as inspired to modern feminism and her fashion studies.

Particularly thanks to her academic studies in fashion in Russia the shoe-lovers are quite aware of her talent in drawing Stilettos. By googling this artist you can download a huge variety of postcards, posters, prints, etc. Panasenko's art shows her concept of heels as straightening...

"women up so tremendously, that men become midgets. The lords of creation have no other option but to stand on their tip-toes, unnoticed in the rain."

Her ability to draw high heels while representing a new concept of feminism out from stereotypes where womanliness leads the whole portrait including male characters almost "overwhelmed" by the height of the stiletto. Colors, styles, themes (cocktails, flowers, dance, folks, etc.) make each of her drawings unique in its genre. I think her portraits on this theme show strength, behaviour and femininity.

The very tiny heel fascinates every shoe lover who is wondering about any physics rule balancing such an extremely pencil heel and the toe where men are usually sitting down or standing up, rather than reading a newspaper. Personally, when I admire one of her portraits on Stilettos my question is the following: "If I were that man...." That micro-male character is like a black point in the dizzying Stiletto. He's fascinating me. Is this another reaction Inna Panasenko would like to get from her viewers?

The second artist I want to mention here is Marilyn Robertson. She explained her cats on pumps and bags (called "Catitudes" Collection) as follows:

My much loved feline range, featuring ‘Jasper-the-Cat’ and his friends Thomas, Felix and Sebastian, (the ‘cats with attitude’), have been trademarked as “Catitudes TM”. With the rest of their friends they are found on a growing product range.

Like for Inna Panasenko, many of Robertson's paints have been put in the global market through posters, greeting cards, Ceramic pimpernel, etc.

The very tiny heels as painted in her works remind me to the same shoe concept by Inna Panasenko. "Catitudes" regards beautiful cats laying down on the sole of some dizzying pumps giving a general idea of luxury, class and relax to the whole portrait. Agree?

The third (last but not least) shoe painter I would like to focus on is Michel Tcherevkoff. The peculiarity of his works regards creating female stunning pumps by flowers. He reminds me to the amazing SS2016 Collection by Manolo Blahnìk I had chance to admire during MB Exhibition last Spring. Each part of the flower contributes to the whole shape of the shoe.

His design has been put in practice by Po-Zu, an "ecological footwear brand that naturally invigorates walking feet". The resulting shoe collection (called Shoe Fleur Collection) matches with standards of a "Responsible Shoe Business" according to the construction so-called "Fits-and-Turn", "by which the upper is stitched to the sole and turned inside-out". (shoefleur.com)

The Shoe Fleur Collection is designed for the woman who appreciates fine art as much as she values comfort, the woman who indulges her wildest footwear fantasies without sacrificing her sole.

Sources:

2.0 - Seven Shades of Nude.

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 22 Aug 2017 19:51:00 +0000

Christian Louboutin: " A nude for every woman"

Some years ago I thought " Finally, someone got it!". I was referring to the "nude" concept by the wonderful Christian Louboutin (hereinafter also CL). His "Nudes" Collection in 2013 (when it was launched) included up to 5 tones (now 7), considering all the varieties of skin tones women have got across the Globe.

In response to popular demand from women around the world, Christian Louboutin is pleased to announce an extension of the brand’s innovative Nudes collection. Originally launched in 2013 with five shades of nude and four styles, the Spring/Summer 2016 collection sees the spectrum extended with two new skin-friendly hues, the porcelein Nude #1 and deep chocolate Nude #7, bringing the current range of colours available to seven. The expansive collection ensures that every woman can find a nude perfectly suited to her complexion. (ChristianLouboutin.com)

I loved this effort by him. It returns to my idea of "Responsible Shoe Business" as introduced in my post #1.4. This Red-Sole collection means respect, inclusion, acceptance, globalization, civilization, humanity, smartness and (why not?) business sniff. It's sad to realize racism is still in many "civilized" Countries all over the world. Perhaps some politicians are increasing divergences on this topic to feed what I call a "war among poors" just to get votes - no matter what then on (at least here in EU - but this is another story...).

Linda Sandino recognized this Red-Sole Collection as one of the "major moments in history that touch the world of design and manufacturing" (Politics, Crockery and the V&A, L.Sandino, 2014). At the Victoria&Albert Museum in London: in 2014 this CL Collection was exhibited by ceramic hands holding his Nude shoes (see pic here nearby).

To be honest many (if not all) of the CL tones have been already existing for years. Initially fashion community referred to PANTONE 12-0911 as "Nude" (Pantone on Fashion: a Century of Color in Design, Di Pantone, LLC,Leatrice Eiseman,E. P. Cutler). Louboutin' smartness in 2013 focused on branding almost all skin tones of women worldwide as a new avanguard concept of "nude" in footwear. It seems to me he's going to make this new concept of nude as the only one possible from now on. That's great to me!

In 2015 CL upgraded his Collection by extending to 7 the number of skin tones among which you can choose your best pair of nude shoes. So far, the lightest one is "Lea" (N.1) while "Ada" (N.7) is the darkest. These are the last two added in 2016. "Nats", "Maya" and "Safki", above all, range in between. (Pursuitist.com)

In 2016 Solasofia, a delicated pointed toe ballerina, joined Pigalle Follies 100 and Senora 100 in this Collection.

Let's check out what the Cinderella' Slipper Designer suggests us in this way. Nearby the already mentioned Solasofia flats and Degrarivierina Pumps, in his website the luckiest ones of us can choose among new Summer 2017 sandals, such as:

1. Christeriva, 875$

This perfect-Summer-party stiletto combines "carefree espadrille laces with a 100mm stiletto heel".

2. Cherry Sandal, 895$

This Summer Sandal has got "dazzles with a hint of illusion" by mixing transparent PVC slingback in a leather nude platform sandal having a "minimalist silhouette with high impact".

The innovated item in this stunning Collection is the material: a soft, flexible, matte nappa leather. The well-thought shades of colors mixed with these materials give to these shoes the right feeling of nudity.

Mr. Louboutin explains his new collection as follows:

“The shoes are there to give the woman an extra lift, not to take attention away from the legs and what she is wearing.”

"Nude" is not matter of colors! It regards the woman' silhouette by elongating her legs. These shades of nude give to female legs versatility, fluidity and allure of the whole body which this Shoe Designer goes on inspiring to. Moreover nude means neutral. This leaves women free to choose the rest of the outfit, including further accessories - not necessarily matching footwear. It's like a second-skin!

Deepik, 995$

Christian Louboutin’s Nudes Collection remains the only offering of its kind within the world of luxury footwear, even three years post-launch.

If you're already thinking about your fall season at the office, CL have the right nude pumps for you then! It's the case of Deepik (pic here above) and Dorissima, which in 2015 joined the classic Red-sole pumps, above all Pigalle, Simple Pump and Bianca. Deepik is a scalloped-edge, peep-toe stiletto. Love its "snake/new wave-heel"! Dorissima stands up as a single-sole, timeless pump with a heart-shaped toe box and a thin sky-high heel...perfect for the office! “It’s important to evolve the style and have fun with it” - CL said about Dorissima.

So Kate Nude, 675$

Another evergreen nude pumps is So Kate Nude (here on the left): thanks to its ideal heel height as “re-arranged in terms of toe cleavage,” it resembles the label’s most popular shoe "Pigalle". (Pursuitist.com). In celebration of The Nudes, this is an iconic shoe by CL.

Watch the video here about the full interview by CNN Lauren Booker to Christian Louboutin about his Nude Collection. From porcelain (N.1) to dark chocolate (N.7) the Nude Collection by Christian Louboutin is a flag of inclusivity challenging "the fashion industry's tendency to cater to paler complexions" (Debika Ray, 2014).

Sources:

ChristianLouboutin.com
Politics, Crockery and the V&A, Linda Sandino, 2014.
Victoria&Albert Museum
Pantone on Fashion: a Century of Color in Design, p.20, Di Pantone, LLC,Leatrice Eiseman,E. P. Cutler, 2014
Pursuitist.com
CNN.com
Iconeye.com

1.9 - Interchangeable Heels.

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 11 Jul 2017 18:11:00 +0000

Once in a while wishes come true, ladies!

There are days when I wish to have different heights of heels for my shoes depending on my schedule. Usually women like wearing medium-high block heels in the office, something slower for a friendly walk and something higher for a romantic dinner. What if we have no chance to go back home and change our outfit for a chic night-out after work - at least our shoes? Well, it seems someone took care of us, ladies!

WO 2016179675 is a patent regarding "Women's shoe with detachable high heel, convertible into flat shoes, flat sandals and the like". Isn't this amazing? Basically, Roberto Stiefelmann, its assignee, provides different heights of heels for the same sample sole:

a women's heeled shoe with a shank having a recess for a quickscrew fastener which allows quickly removing and replacing the heel, and which, together with a flexible insole, preferably a PVC moulded insole, and an elastic junction in the quarters or vamp, allows a closed shoe with a heel to be converted into a flat shoe or a sandal-like shoe with a heel to be converted into a flat sandal, for example, or vice versa. The shoe also comprises a second screw or pin arranged radially in relation to the screw already available in the front side of the heel, thus remaining hidden under the shoe, this second screw the central, heel-fastening screw from becoming accidentally loose. The shoe also comprises a flange with an inner screw thread incorporated into the insole by pressing in such a way that screw positioning imperfections can be corrected by rotating the flange.

In the related Prior Art, patent US3646497 already claimed "Shoe with interchangeable heels" in 1972. The subsequent patent US4610100 (1986, therefore expired) opened the way to several new inventions in this field. Until 2016 when thanks to Mr. Stiefelman' s genius, a German company, Mime et moi, put shoes with five interchangeable heels in the market. Now their video is "viral" on the web (here above)!

Another brand producing this kind of shoes is Tanya Heath who seems combining luxury fashion design with multi-heels. She provides a mechanism ( based on US7954256 (2011) and US20130067770 (2013) ) typified by clicking the new heel on the sole of the shoe. The related clicking sound means a complicated gimmick "dimensioned to be pressed 5000 times and that you are using a very robust mechanical system". In her website you may find different kind of heels, in terms of height, material, design and pattern. Parisian style never disappoints!

A further brand in this field is Mestrae, from Malaysia. In its website you may read as follows:

The road to Mestrae started from humble beginnings, it came from wanting to fulfill the needs and wants of the everyday woman, the mothers, the corporate climbers, the professional, the chef, the sisters and daughters, the modern woman who tries to do it all.

This is to remark the very aim for which this kind of interchangeable heels-shoes were born, as I mentioned at the beginning of this post. It's quite pretty to me to read in this Malaysian website about the company's efforts to balance between technology and style setting in footwear.

At Mestrae, we look forward to being trend setters and to continuously be creative and innovative in the world of fashion and technology.

It sounds familiar to me since my last posts regard just this futuristic relationship, aka "Engineering Footwear Industry". Whatever is the brand of your interchangeable heels, I hope you'll agree with me in including all these among the so-called "Smart Shoes" in terms of comfort.

In my home-country (Italy) they're still to be appreciated. I really believe in their potential and hope they'll reach the market success they deserve - for the good of our poor feet!

1.8 - Men Fashion Weeks SS2018: high-tech footwear.

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 07 Jul 2017 11:23:00 +0000

This is time for Men Fashion Weeks SS2018. Here's below the calendar with upcoming events:

London, LFWM, June 9-12, 2017;
Florene, Pitti Uomo, June 13-16, 2017;
Milan, MFWM, June 17-20, 2017;
Paris, PFWM, June 21-25, 2017;
New York City, NYCFW, July 10-13, 2017.

This is my first post entirely focused on men fashion footwear. I think this website must regard footwear both for men and women, according to my overall interest in this sector.

During those of the above listed dates just ended some fashion designers showed new and innovative concepts of footwear for men. Engineering Fashion Industry (not only footwear) now boasts Virgil Abloh who put LED on coats during Pitti Uomo catwalk (theme: immigration from Ghana).

Innovation in footwear arrived in PFWM thanks to the always-up-to-date brand Salvatore Ferragamo which "inhaled" the stage. The new SF Footwear Design Director, Paul Andrew, "brings finesse to feet" (Vogue). Already in the last NYFW he announced the new line of innovative sneakers for men to be showed during PFWM 2017. The new collection Salvatore Ferragamo Men SS2018 by Mr. Andrew so shown in Paris titled him as the "Accessory Designer of the Year" (CFDA's awards). This British-born and New York-based designer provides a new concept of "classic/sport men shoes". He declared to the Vogue journalist Suzy Menkes:

Men Footwear SS2018, Salvatore Ferragamo.

“We totally revolutionised the measurements and the fit with almost every shoe that is in the collection, changing the length of the arch and the volume of the toe box. And one of the most important things was that I added to every single shoe a memory foam, so that it actually cups around the ball of your foot.”

First SS2018 footwear trend. The new shoes by Mr. Andrew have got vivid colors, traditional funnel heels and shiny leather straps. The very innovative SF item in heels regards the inspiration to the same process as for car finish (e.d. super-matte-black effect borrowed from the surface treatment of Mercedes cars). Moreover, modern SF man can wear tech-knit sneakers and malleable ankle boots, as inspired to Japanese geishas. Vogue already nominated him as the "21st-century’s king of shoes".

Second SS2018 footwear trend. In addition to Salvatore Ferragamo, many shoe designers, above all Giuseppe Zanotti, welcome the huge advantages by 3D printing to leather shoes for their Men Footwear SS2018 Collections. In other words, 3D printed leather (e.g. crocodile pattern) will be one of the best SS2018 trends, men!

Third SS2018 footwear trend. According to Browns’ menswear buyer Lee Goldup, sneakers will still be another footwear trend in Summer Spring 2018. In particularly, the so-called "slip-on socks" updates the current concept of "sneakers" even for men. This trend is already on the ways of Milan thanks to some IT-boys, like GCDS and Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan.

Fourth SS2018 footwear trend. Bicolor is the keyword. Church's, Bikkembergs, Tod's and Emporio Armani are just some examples suggesting this trend on their Pitti Uomo runways. If possible, combined with high-fine leather both for elegant and sport shoes.

Fifth SS2018 footwear trend. Mocassins. Yes, they're back once again! This classy and comfortable evergreen item in Men Fashion will walk streets again next sunny season. This is what brands like Tod's (ofc!) and Jimmy Choo, above all, promote next year. Personally I like this chic and not-easy-to-fit men shoe a lot, both for men and for women. Mocassins can give a classy touch to any outfit.

Alberto Guardiani, Men Footwear SS2018[/caption]

Emerging Brands. SS2018 runways at Pitti Uomo and MFWM introduced some new interesting shoe designers. Many of them focused on sport men with an high-tech outfit. To me some of the most promising ones are the following:

Filippo Fiora and Filippo Cirulli - working for Edhèn Milano and now lunching their own brand called "3F" ("the threef") - suggested "brightly hued monk strap loafers" characterised by sleeker and more elongated shapes (FootwearNews.com). These remind me to jazz Époque adding the trending colors for stylish dandy. Nevertheless the signature of these emerging shoe designers is the Brera loafer, between Italian and English styles.
Marcelo Burlon Men Footwear line fully inspires to sporty chic '90s skaters shoes/slippers as well as neoprene sneaker boots.
Diego Vanassibara designs men footwear characterised by brogues and sneakers layered with apron-style overlays and mosaics. To the Mini runway at Pitti Uomo he provided elegant men shoes with diamond-shape motif and laster-cut perforations. Keep in mind his name because he's going to collaborate with Yoox for his unisex collection at PFWM in September.
VFTS suggests a new concept of sneakers as inspired to architecture and stylish streetstyle. The innovation of this brand regards the use of new materials: calf leather and raw-edged suede, with strong geometric shapes, hand-painted edges, shock absorbers and a neoprene inner sock.

Conclusion. Spring Summer 2018 is going to be a season of exaggerate fashion footwear both for men and for women. Extremes, colors, contrast and surprise are the coming keywords. Nature and technology; classic and sporty; beauty and performance; roughness and luster. "Externally shoes are made out of soft suede and a classic shape, while the inside features technical high-performance meshes" in the name of techno-futurism. (FotoShoeMagazine.com)

Just few deserved words about.

Goodbye Carla.

It seems Angels are going to be quite glamour this year! Laura Biagiotti left us just last month. Now it's the turn of Carla Fendi (1933), the fourth in the line of five sisters leading the stylish Fendi Maison. Carla was the honorable chair of this brand (after 2001 acquisition of the brand by LVMH, France) as well as founder of Fondazione Carla Fendi (2007) to support arts and social commitments. Thanks to her efforts in public relations, particularly with US market, the "double-f" succeeded worldwide. Her friendship with Karl Lagerfeld signed the discovery of this talented and glamorous fashion designer. She left a big "glamorous" heritage to fashion industry and arts.

Sources:

1.7 - "Smart" Shoes

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 29 Jun 2017 08:21:00 +0000

High-Tech" is the new key-word. Engineering developments are fastly running beyond our mind capabilities. Fashion footwear industry seems willing to join this trend! In one of my most succesfull posts (3D Printed Shoes) I wrote about the innovative 3D printing machines in footwear. It was just the beginning!

During the last fall season you might have got chance to meet people wearing footwear with lights. These are special sneakers "switching on/off" balancing with your walk. In a first time I was convinced this was just "field" for children (like that footwear with wheels which invaded the fashion kids market few time ago). With my huge surprise I have then been meeting adults, boys and girls, donning lights on their feet. This made me quite wondering about the original brand, how it works, any linked patent, etc. Well, here below what I've discovered so far and, starting from this, new developments about high-tech sneakers!

First, this "firefly" footwear works thanks to a LED system installed on its heels. Patent US 9,526,294, B2 (Applicant: Troy Larsen, US; Date: Dec. 27, 2016) regards "Footwear with insertable lighting assemby", having

"a sole structure with a cushion layer wherein a lighting assembly, having a switch, a power source, and at least one light source or LED, can be inserted and attached into the sole structure to provide external illumination from the footwear. The cushion layer exhibits a means for transmitting light from the lighting assembly secured within to the exterior of the footwear, the means for transmitting light can take the form of a polymeric material of at least partial transparency, in some cases having a fluid enclosed within or the form of a plurality of light transmission channels."

This system seems taking advantage from a previous patent on the same topic: US 3,008,038 (Date: Nov. 7, 1961; Applicant: M.L. Dickens) titled "Shoe with electric bulb providing illumination". Particularly, this old invention focused on people walking in darkness "or in dimly lighted areas" so to avoid any injury. It was just the beginning of a new footwear industry branch aiming to support new needs by Millenial customers.

Just one website for all: Led-Sneakers.com

Fashion industry, therefore, is trying to adopt new high-tech innovations to improve footwear, in terms of comfort, safety, responsability and health (aka, "smart shoes"). I may define this interesting branch as "Engineering Footwear Industry" (EFI). To what concern "responsible" shoes, I would like to suggest you to read my post 1.4.

If LED system was inititially installed on the soil of footwear to "switch on" the way to nightly runners, I've just discovered another innovative concept of sneakers involving the modern need to always connect to world.

Yes, readers! Cloud-connected sneakers are already in the market! In particular, these special shoes, as a result of collaboration among Fujitsu, SnowRobin and two universities in Japan, "use in-built sensors to track your data and create 'walking experiences' and games for the wearer." In the article by wearable.com Conor Allison writes that their tech is currently tested in lab, while already practical experiments are ongoing (aka PA-League Walk) to support professional Japanese baseball team.

Further inputs by this new tech regards the chance to simply track step data linked to a proper app on your mobile. See, you don't need to be a professional athlete to enjoy it. It seems not just a game. Many companies are already offering their option about "smart shoes".

Digitsole seems the first sneaker capable to connect, interact and shock absorb via smartphone.

The NIKE Patent n. US 9, 656, 146 B2 titled "Athletic Performance Sensing and/or Tracking System and Methods" (May 23, 2017) seems running towards this way by claiming a method linked to a user device receving data by its performance.

According to the above mentioned article by C.Allison nobody has already explored "the gaming element" to these smart shoes. I think it's just matter of time!

My concept of "Smart Shoes" now goes far beyond cloud/LED devices. Shoe industry seems quite fascinated by high-tech. I suggest you another article at this regard by Techflier.com. Recently I could even speak about a "wedding" between a branch of this fashion industry and engineers.

In the market you may even find pumps with a color-changeable heel (as, ofc, linked to a proper app in your mobile) by Volvorii. If you're a ballet dancer, like me, you may be even more addicted to the futuristic ballet slippers (aka, E-Trace Ballet Shoes) enabling to capture any dancer's foot movement and trasform it into vibrant, multicolor and digital drawings on your smartphone.

Inventors have already moved far beyond! Can you think about a shoe to tip/tap/type your friends via whatsapp! It's just here, dears, and its name is Dorothy. Never imaged shoes connecting with Google Map? The answer is "Sneakairs"!

After reading this post, can you guess what glamorous step forwards the EFI is making just now? This topic is "thrilling" my curiousity more and more. I'll keep you posted on any further futuristic step by this fashion branch. Stay tuned.

Sources:

1.6 - Summer Trend 17: Rainbow

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 12 Jun 2017 10:45:00 +0000

Did you hear about one of the last Summer trends: rainbow? My favourite season is almost here. To me this means colors! I think that's why rainbow is one of the most successful trends during the coming hot months. Ofc, troughout decades it has meant peace, pride, and joy (we'll go deep on this later on). No matter what's your opinion about, this pattern will involve you soon!

As a fish in the river, I would like to let this trend lead me during the coming days on the beach, in a party at a chalet, and (why not?) in the city. Colors, as known, have got a positive power on human beings. They're able to change your vibe. If you're wearing something colorful your reflection in a mirror can make you smile - even during a bad day! Well, I want this trend gets involved me even more this year!

Let me focus now on rainbow footwear. This amazing "fever" has infected many excellent shoe designers. In this post I'm listing few of them (my favourite ones).

Sophia Webster, Rosa Jelly T-Strap sandals, 260 EUR.

This shoe designer, as we've seen in post 1.3 has got a special preference for colors in her style. You may get an embarassing wealth of options!I chose this one. Moreover, the jelly t-strap sandal ( from '90s) is another Summer trend 2017!

2. Chloè, Jody leather wedge sandals, 351 EUR

3. Rocket Dog Bigtop, 35.40 EUR

Platform flip flops for the beach come back from '80s - '90s as further Summer 17 trend...watch out!

4. Alexander Birman, Mary Bow Colorblock Suede Sandals, 389 EUR

5. Gucci, Metallic leather platform sneakers, 642 EUR

...Get ready to the Fall Season!

6. Silvian Heach, Montefano Sandals, 91 EUR.

Montefano is a small town in Marche Region (Italy) where many Italian shoe factories seat. Should be this why of this name?

7. Alexander Birman, Multicolor Lace-Up Sandals, 616 EUR ( as 4.)

8. Dolce and Gabbana, Fringe Embellished Leather Mary Jane pumps, 1.048 EUR.

9. Valentino Garavani, SS2015 (even Rainbow Collection: sandals, mules, ballerinas, pumps).

10. Valentino Garavani, leather flat sandals, 590 EUR.

How crazily in love with this pattern is this Italian shoe designer among years!

11. Casadei, Blade, Embellished Sandals, 1.039, 15 EUR

This is one of my favourite shoe designers ever - as my followers know well.

As already mentioned at the begging of this post, "rainbow" has got many symbolic meanings dealing, particularly, with some serious ju-ju in myth and culture. It also stands for powerful stuff like: creation, divinity, good luck, duality and liminal spaces.

In her blog, Avia Venefica analyses the different symbolic meanings rainbow gets across the Globe in many different cultures and their wisdoms. It may be reproduced as a mythological Chinese dragon interceeding on behalf of human beings; as the Norse's Bifrost (bridge to the land of gods, aka Asgard); rather than a Navajo's multi-colored serpent to be ridden by young braves as initiation to the Great Spirit. Rainbow has been also linked to feminine divinity meaning prosperity, fertility, magic and provision, as for Celtics. I truly recommend to read her post to go through this topic.

"More research into rainbow meanings made me realize there's a lot more to them than just glittery symbols adorning juvenile tubes of strawberry flavored lip gloss." [...] "One of the most intense references to the rainbow is found in Hindu and Buddhist Tantra. Apparently, those who have surpassed their earthly ties are in a position to achieve the highest meditative state, and experience the "rainbow body". This has also been described as a "body of light" when ultimate ascension has been reached. The rainbow body phenomenon is an ultimate oneness, and typically happens at the time of death." (What'sYourSign.com)

When you decide to wear any rainbow pattern, even on your feet, don't be suprised then about the positive energy this will give you!

More rainbow shoes in this post by Tuesday Sh oesday. Enjoy your rainbow Summer! Leave me your like and your comment to contribute in improving this website. Follow me further on the main Social Networks!

1.5 - Goodbye, Laura

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 29 May 2017 10:21:00 +0000

Three days ago Mrs. Laura Biagiotti left us all. Another glamorous fashion designer reaching Mr. Versace in clothing angels. I'm Italian, this post is more than deserved.

She was one of the modern Italian fashion artists (the so-called "Cashmire Queen" or the "White Lady") who contributed to the huge success of the "made-in-Italy". Her work in the fashion industry started when she was very young at her mother's atelier in Rome. Her mother, indeed, designed the Alitalia uniforms in 1964.

It's just in 1972 when Laura acquired MacPershon factory in Pisa that she really brought herself on the international fashion "balcony". She showed her interest in white, semplicity and innovative shapes of cashmere by putting in place runways in China (the first Italian fashion designer doing so) (1988), Russia (1995) and Egypt (1998).

Today her maison called "The House of Biagiotti" in Rome, is one of the largest fashion houses in Italy. In 2015 the brand celebrated its 50 birthday setting a new partnership with Anegelini in producing and distributing, which followed the previous one with Protecter and Gamble. At the end of that year these were the data available on the brand: 16 licenses, 37 male and female collections and 21 workers.

Laura Biagiotti was able to build in parallel two "empires": one in fashion, as worldwide know, and the other one about real estate businesses, particularly castles (e.g. Castello Marco di Simone di Guidonia, Rome).

At the finance perspective, few data are available: in 2015 Biagiotti Group's turnover was 4,9 billion euros for a whole yearly business about 90 billion ones.

The White Lady joined actively the fashion industry revolution in '80s and '90s providing the made-in-Italy the deserved rank closed to the main French maisons. Many Italian celebrities (e.g. Nancy Brilli, Carla Fracci and Natasha Stefanenko) weared her masterpieces, on red carpets as well as on films. She got many awards, above all:

1992, Woman of the Year, NYC (US);
1995, Kinght of Labour by Italian President O.L.Scalfaro;
2001, Prix Femmes d' Europe;
2002, Marisia Bellisario Awards and Lifetime Achievement Award, National Council of Italian Fashion. Meanwhile, the Italian post office issued a 41 EUR cent stamp with her name;
2004, Laura Biagiotti wrote the chapter about Fashion in the Treccani Encyclopedia. Meanwhile, she got the Lupa Capitolina award by the Rome Mayor, V. Veltroni;
2007, Crystal Lion Lifetime Achievemnet - Venice Casino Award
2008, Leonardo Award by the Italian President G. Napolitano.
2011, the Marco Polo award by Chinese government and the America Award of the ITA-USA Foundation.

Recently it seems her brand was slowly hiddening on the international arena, compared with its huge success during few decades before. Her collections in net-a-porter became accessible to mass, meaning: cheaper, increased sales and sometimes lower quality than during '80s. My opinion is that the brand was then suffering the strong Chinese competition (even in Tuscany where the italian - Chinese textile district is).

Today her daughter, Lavinia Biagiotti Cigna, already side by side with her mother during the last runways and sitting in the National Council of Italian Fashion, will lead the brand to the future.

I hope the new generation will give LB brand back the old fame re-investing in quality and innovation (as the Cashmire Queen did during her whole life).

Here's Laura Biagiotti Official Website

Sources:

1.4 - Pin these dates in your Agenda!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 22 May 2017 15:09:00 +0000

We may say this is one of the best years for Italian shoe lovers (like me)! Indeed, since its beginning exhibitions about stunning shoe designers have been managed throughout the "Boot" (as we, as Italians, usually call our peninsula 'cause of its shape).

In this post I would like to post the main events you should not miss if you are planning to visit my Country during the coming 7 months!

Ofc, I couldn't miss Manolo Blahnìk in Palazzo Morando (Milan) on which I wrote post #07 . Unfortunately this exhibition lasted few weeks between March and April. You can still have a virtual tour thanks to the related video on my YouTube Channel.

On May 13 at the Venice Biennale a special area (Padiglione Italia) opened as focused on luxury Fashion Brands, among which Renè Caovilla (Padiglione Venezia) ( pic here above), selected as representative of made-in-Italy footwear. The Venice-based brand particularly invested on luxury footwear making all women dream. The exhibition will last until Nov 26. Tickets are a bit over the standard range (20 EUR) due to the fact you're supposed to visit the whole event. By surfing on the web you can easily find articles and videos already about this, btw. It may be even a good chance to visit the Othello's city while drinking a Spritz "Al Merca" in a "bacareto" closed to Canal Grande or on Ponte Vecchio.

Moreover, few days ago Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence opened a new "vintage" exhibition inspired to his '20s collection. This shoe designer weared the feet of some Icons, like Marylin Monroe and Audrey Hepburn (here on the left with Mr. Ferragamo himself). This brand dictated footwear trends, particularly, between '20s and '60s. The exhibition will last almost for a whole year - you have time to arrange it! Ticket price: 6 EUR. You could get chance to visit Gucci and Pitto Palaces, as well. If you like wine, take time to drink a glass of Chianti on the Rinascente terrace during the sunset.

So far that's all! Pin these in your agenda! I'm already planning my visits to the last two. I'm confident they'll make my eyes bright once again, as it was with Manolo.

1.3 - The "responsible" side of Shoe Business

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 15 May 2017 10:02:00 +0000

We're quite aware of thinking about Fashion Firms as business-oriented which means profit-oriented - no matter what! We often hear about those brands taking advantage from child-labour rather than new shapes of slaveness, or without considering enviromental risks at all. Since the best Solidariety silently walks underground with humilty beyond-human kindness, we know just a bit about those ones, instead, working for a better world. In this post I would like to mention some of them, giving them somehow space they deserve in this whispered "ant" work.

As Italian Shoe Blogger I must start with Tod's which supported San Patrignano Community (Italy) in producing leather bags (more details here: http://bit.ly/2pB5dns). SanPa, as commonly known, is a recovery community welcoming people suffering drug addiction and marginalization. It gives them a "second chance" in life by a rehabilitation programme (based on love). In this way Tod's gives opportunity to some of SanPa guests to get into labour and business markets.

Moving to the Netherlands, Vimpex International Footwear group got the Dutch Royal Warrant award in 2014, above all, for its particular committment to improve employment conditions.

TOMS Founder, Blake Mycoskie (in the pic here above), started his career in Shoe Business in 2014 inspired by necessity of children growing up without shoes. Today the company is in over 70 Countries giving over 60 million pairs of shoes to children worldwide. This Shoe Firm is today committed also on clean water, safer birth and employment.

On the side of Child-friendly shoes (according to India Committee of the Netherlands), 19 companies, among which the 12 ETI members such as H&M, Primark, Inditex, Marks & Spencer, Next, TESCO, Sainsbury joined the Leather Working Group and MVO Nederland, to face adverse human rights and environmental impacts in their supply chain (data as up to 20 March 2017). Moreover, few days ago (12 May 2017) the Indian shoe company P A Footwear Ltd achieved the Gold Medal Award by Leather Working Group, above mentioned.

We can get a few news about this whispering virtuous trend. Such approach to solidal shoe business can as absurd (?) spread profits towards more-conscious consumers worldwide. Social Networks, particularly Twitter, show how people are increasingly demanding "responsible" products - within fashion industry, too. An example was the huge campaign boycotting Nike Child-labour production in Asia few years ago.

1.2 - Mom & Daughter matching shoes

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 09 May 2017 15:43:00 +0000

Mother's Day is coming! I would like to wish Her all the best by some shoe designers and their Mom and daughter matching shoes.

I was inspired by Sophia Webster (pic here below) and her collection for Moms and their little princesses. I think this was also a very smart marketing insight by this brand: the cute combo Mom-daughter is an increasing trend worldwide (even among celebrities!) and the best chance is indeed this celebration.

Lady Webster was not the only shoe designer thinking about wearing "family" feet. Some of my favourite brands had the same idea: Valentino (here below) and Christian Louboutin - to mention just two.

From the stunning heels to casual footwear (by Converse, Vans and Lamberjack, e.g.) and summer sandals (by Etsy). Many shoe designers are surfing on this "parental" trend. I must say "parental" because it regards parents, in general: both moms and dads (particularly sport brands, like Adidas and Nike).

When I was a child I used to play with my Mom's shoes. Who didn't? I could even not image my feelings in case of such a shoe-combo with her. Now as a young woman I'm moving rather on Mom's side ( it's not time for me, yet).

Although my Mom and I had no chance to wear matching shoes during my childhood, nowadays I often don one of her pair of shoes I used to admire as a child (those few ones for which I could reach the right size, ofc). She was a shoe-lover more than me, jelously preserving vintage Chanels or Colettes in a big wardrobe today matching with my increasing footwear collection there inside, as well (poor Daddy!).

I didn't got from her just some of her glamorous shoes. I got her bravery as self-made-woman, her resilience to life-challenges, as well as her moody and strength. It's not necessary wearing matching shoes with your Mom to resemble her. You'll do in any case and anyhow!

....I'm pretty sure I will wear matching shoes with my future daughter ( if any), btw.

1.1 - The new Challenge of 3D Printing Shoes

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 24 Apr 2017 13:05:00 +0000

I was planning to write my coming post about mules as mentioned in some previous posts. Recently I read many interesting articles at this regard. I then decided to focus my attention on one of the very trending topics in Footwear business which is increasing my curiosity about: 3D printing shoes. I’m sure this post will grow up your interest in new developments of footwear industry. I apologize in advance for its necessary length.

Before going deep on the “hot topic” of this post, I would like to have a look at how traditionally shoe factories work. You can find many articles, posts and videos about this topic. Obviously I made the whole process quite easier than what’s in reality in order to facilitate understanding.

1. STEP: DESIGN

As everything to plan, the very first phase is to “invent” something. Shoe designers put their idea on a paper. I love this step meaning the creativity of these artists and the very birth of a shoe. I remember when I had the chance to go into a shoe design office: all those shoe draftings on the walls, those desks with pens and pencils, samples, etc. It was like being in the brain of the factory itself.

2. STEP: PROTOTYPE

Once bosses approved the project drawn by the shoe designer and before starting producing thousands and thousands of that shoe, the drawing passes to the production unit aimed to make a Prototype. Here, artisans use their equipment and knowledge together with proper machines which nowadays have made their work easier. However, the very first tool is a shoe-custom last from wood or plastic. Artisans use it to model leather and other materials to make shoes. In a shoe factory you may find billion of these shoe-customs according to volume of production, sizes, heel-weights, genre models. Once artisans made the prototype both by their own hands and some machine help, this item has to pass over the new approval by bosses and designers before starting the subsequent phase.

3. STEP: PRODUCTION

Let’s assume Prototype has been approved. Now it’s time to produce thousands of it to put in the market (meaning, first, figuring new runways and events out where to promote it). In this step machines support artisans in their daily work to increase production, quality and efficiency. I called this phase as “executive” due to the workings among colors, materials, men and machines, customs, heels, and further details.

Consider how crucial are every of these steps, particularly in terms of profit, work, intellectual property, production amounts, therefore costs and investments. What 3D machines “rub out” regards the third step (perhaps the second one, as well). This means rubbing out the related costs. Anyhow, how do 3D shoe-machines work? Basically, a 3D printing machine allows to create a 3D model with a CAD program, then a printable file is used to create a layer design which is printed afterwards. This machine build things “by depositing material, typically plastic or metal, layer by layer, until the prototype or final product is finished” (wired.com).

This new technology seems matching with new consumers’ preferences. Shoes are tailored for each person’s unique feet. Particularly for wide or thick feet is hard to find a suitable pair of shoes, due to the common sizing system is based on half-integer measurements (6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, etc.). 3D Printing solves all this. Instead of trying many pair of shoes box by box this technology allows the computer to “create an accurate 3D model of the person’s feet”. This information combined with further costumer’s details, such as weight, height, activities which the shoes is engaged for. After inputting all these data, the costumer must just wait for printing.

An increasing number of footwear companies is now using 3D printing technology (above all, Nike, Feetz, United Nude, Adidas, New Balance and Under Armour) to give customers their very personalized pair of shoes, made in store or on the spot. Early this new technology was used just for rapid prototyping (wired.com).

In the last twenty years the rapid advances of the so called “3Digital Accelerators” (processing power, storage and bandwidth) has developed this 3D printing as “a tool for manufacturing end-products, such as shoes, jewelry, and dresses (within fashion business). As seen above this technology can be particularly useful for therapeutic applications. This is the case, for example, of SOLS Systems which makes orthotic shoes to alleviate foot pain and improve comfort for customers. Additionally, Nike has introduced its new Nike Vapor Ultimate Cleat American football boot, which combines 3D knitting and 3D shoe printing to give players an athletic shoe that delivers both lightweight speed and strength.

Although the majority of shoes sold nowadays are traditionally-made, the 3D technology is globally advancing quickly on the international market according to its “add values”: “On-demand, anytime, anywhere, by anyone manufacturing.” (wired.com) As for any innovation even for 3D printing there are already some objections. Some experts in footwear production in confirming the advantages by this tech as above listed use btw the cellphone metaphore to describe this new tech: “the 2016’s designs are similar to brick cellphone of yesteryear which was laborious and cucumbersome.”(highsnobiety.com).

An example of very receptive shoe designer, the Italian Cristina Fraceschini, who soon became a Shapeways designer. Her peculiarity is the almost-sculpture heel as an intricate 3D printed nylon cover, combining metallic finish onto a plastic through high product pressure. (3DPrintingIndustry.com). Another advantage highlighted by this female shoe-designers by Fermo (Italy) regards the production amount: with 3D printing it’s possible to produce even one unique shoe – which was impossible in the past. An immediate result of this open-mindness by Cristina is that a lot of her shoes are exhibited in the contemporary section of Fermo’s Footwear Museum).

This enthusiastic shoe designer declared: “I love playing and experimenting with materials and I believe that the Italian shoe industry needs to get on board and explore with next generation designs. It is time to take Italian shoe making traditions and creativity into the future of manufacturing.”

The 3D printing has been just discovered. We can already note its pros and cons. Of course it will arise new issues, above all about the future of the traditional footwear market as well as new levels of intellectual property rights protection. My opinion is that we have still to discover a lot about 3D printing. Although traditional factories must be preserved we could deeply know and use potential advantages related to a balance between tradition and innovation in footwear production. The example of Cristina Franceschini may contribute in this direction.

1.0 - Easter Slippers

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 17 Apr 2017 10:19:00 +0000

Today morning I made my Social-check by mobile as usual. One of my best friends as well as my sister-in-law, Madi, gave me her "good morning" with a pic of bunny sneakers perfectly suiting with our Easter Holidays. This post inspires to her. Thanks, my dear!

Did you think shoe designers missed the chance to celebrate Easter with any crazy-funny shoe? This post would like to make you smile with some funny footwear inspired to this holiday. Whether in sneakers or in mules, bunnies, eggs and pastel colors can wear your foot during these days.

Starting from these Bunny-flats by Minna Parikka (MP). Bunny ears and pom pom tail seem characterizing her style.

This Helsinki-based designer started her career when she was only 15-year-old. Currently her designs are sold in 25 different countries globally in some of the best fashion retailers, such as Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty London, Luisa Via Roma, Le Bon Marché, Galeries Lafayette Beijing, Shopbop, Harvey Nichols UK & HK, I.T, Isetan and Level Shoe. Her shoes are crafted in Spain from the finest materials, such as Spanish and Italian leathers.

MP is not alone! Other designers have got something to say about. You can find a lot of (sometimes, too much) excentric Easter footwear, here below the best slippers I choosed for you. Keep anyhow in mind pastels lead this celebration, even on shoes.

Enjoy and Happy Easter to whom celebrates!

Minna Parikka, women's sneakers, 305 EUR

Gray Matters, Mildred Egg Mules, 493 EUR

Sophia Webster, Skye sandals, 704 EUR

Katy Perry's The Jessica, 121 EUR

Minna Parikka, Kids glitter flat, 118 - 258 EUR

Sources: Footwearnews.com , Minna Parikka

0.9 - Trending Pearls

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 07 Apr 2017 14:42:00 +0000

Nicholas Kirkwood mules, "Casati" collection, 725 EUR, farfetch.com

In previous posts we saw the last trends on 2017 runways: stripes and block-heels. We stay to speak about the further two: pearls and mules. Here I would like to rest on pearl-heels.

Throughout the most recent runways many shoe-designers suggested this item for SS2017. According with my love for pearls both in jewelry and in clothes, you can easily understand my interest in this post. Let start from some examples: Casadei and Nicholas Kirkwood ( designers already mentioned in posts, respectively, 0.2 and 0.8) "weared" our SS2017 with pearl-heels, no matter if pencil or block ones rather than into plateau or in the plantar arch.

To be honest, this trending item walked on Gucci runways already last year. It's anyway in this season that many designers focused their attention on this chic evergreen feature, still including Gucci. Other designers, like Sophia Webster and her Rosalind sandal (495$) as well as Cristian Louboutin with his Cataconico espadrille (795$), inspired to these gemstones for their last collections. For what concerns Nicholas' Kirkwood footwear, this item seems developing further the following patent of this brand: US D740,010 (October 2015) titled "The ornamental design for a heel with studs, as shown and described".

This "escamotage" by shoe-designers can revolutionize the spreading idea that pearls belongs to chic-rich old women. Recently pearls have been put on clothes giving them that "quid" enough to be unique meanwhile casual-chic. Having now put them on heels of different types of footwear (from heels to boots and boyfriend shoes) can even more change our common thinking about this hard object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle) of a living shelled mollusk or another animal, such as a conulariid. Stating that the majority of pearls as ornament to shoes may be factory-produced, here below I would like to briefly introduce this to-me-amazing gemstone.

Just like the shell of a clam, a pearl is composed of calcium carbonate (mainly aragonite or a mixture of aragonite and calcite) in minute crystalline form, which has been deposited in concentric layers. The ideal pearl is perfectly round and smooth, but many other shapes, known as baroque pearls (my favoruite ones), can occur. The finest quality natural pearls have been highly valued as gemstones and objects of beauty for many centuries. Because of this, pearl has become a metaphor for something rare, fine, admirable and valuable.

Whether wild or cultured, gem-quality pearls are almost always nacreous and iridescent, like the interior of the shell that produces them. However, almost all species of shelled mollusks are capable of producing pearls (technically "calcareous concretions") of lesser shine or less spherical shape. Although these may also be legitimately referred to as "pearls" by gemological labs and also under U.S. Federal Trade Commission rules, and are formed in the same way, most of them have no value except as curiosities.

Sources: Wikipedia

0.8 - Block Heels Trend SS2017

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 27 Mar 2017 11:08:00 +0000

Fashion Community passed through Mercedes Benz - Moscow FW last week, too. Spring started few days ago. Sun is coming to warm our hearts. We're almost up to renew our wardrobe for the usual season cover where colors lead our outfits. In this context I would like to briefly pause on one of Spring Footwear Trends as suggested by all the Fashion Weeks so far: the so called "block-heel". Weather you're wearing a sandal or a pumps rather than a pair of boots this is one of last trends I like the most. As heritage of 90's mixed with comfort and a bit of extravagance, the "block-heel" has already conquired runways in NYC, London, Paris and Moscow. No doubts in its success in the next Rome Fashion Week early in April, too!

This trend, indeed, started few years ago: already in 2014 Summer we could donned a pair of such a comfortable sandals! This year heels over 5inches or higher are fully banned. Kirschenbaum notes: "Women nowadays are way more focused on comfort and practicality (and value investing in a shoe that is both stylish and comfortable enough to walk or commute in) which is why there has been such an increase in demand for sneakers and low block-heels."(Elle)

Brand-new is the "rounded" version of block-heel: geometry leads our coming sunny season mixing pastel and main colors, shiny with metallic items embellishing the shoe, lace-up/ bound/ mule pattern. We could admire those items throughout runways by, above all, Nicholas Kirkwood, Ted Baker, Sam Edelman, Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Celine, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Jaquemus, Missoni, Marni, D&G, Marques' Almeida and Mariana Jungman.

Focus on the lace-up shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood ( $1,130) as here on the right: a sample of this trend. This triangular basis-prism heel was patented under US D728,211S in May 2015. This stacked sandals sums up all the requirements above mentioned for a glamourous SS2017:

lace-up
colors (main ones, in particular)
block-heels
under 5 inches high (1.5")

Interesting to read also the article in StyleCaster.com, to whom is wondering how to combine this footwear trend for a daily outfit.
Enjoy your comfortable Spring!

Sources: InStyle.com, Vogue.com, Nicholas Kirkwood

0.7 - Manolo Blahnìk's Art

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 13 Mar 2017 20:53:00 +0000

From 26th January to 9th April in Morando Palace, Milan (Italy) it is arranged an exhibition of Manolo Blahnìk's shoes titled "The Art of Shoes". I was there last weekend. It was an amazing "dive" in his art within a delicious framework as in this eighteenth-century building next to Via Montenapoleone in Milan. Luckily it was allowed to make pics so I could make some. In this exhibition: 212 shoe models and 80 drawings signed by the stylist in its 45 years of activity. You can watch the full video on my visit there by my YouTube Channel.

The exhibition is divided into six sections: in the first one, footwear dedicated to historical and contemporary characters that inspired the designer (from Alexander the Great to Brigitte Bardot until Anna Piaggi, lead editor of Vogue Italy). After an excursus on the materials used by Blahnik, the exhibition examines his passion for art and architecture before passing into the fourth section about selection of the most imaginative models of the designer. Here you'll find shoes he designed to queen Marie-Antoinette movie (2006) (starring Kirsten Dust). The fifth section is devoted to the love of Blahnik for nature, while in the last section there are showed models inspired by Spain, Italy, Africa, Russia, England and Japan.

Before starting our virtual itinerary, let me introduce this famous shoes-designer.

Manolo Blahnìk with "Madrid" pumps (2017) on his shoulder.

Manuel "Manolo" Blahnik Rodríguez (hereinafter, also as "MB") is a Spanish fashion designer (1942) founding his eponymous high-end shoe brand. His Czech father's family owned a pharmaceutical firm in Prague while his mother's family owned a banana plantation in Santa Cruz de la Palma (Spain). He was homeschooled during his childhood until he started studying Diplomacy (Politics and Law) in Switzerland. During that time he became increasingly interested in Literature and Architecture. In 1965 he got his degree in this last field and then moved to Paris to study Art at the École des Beaux-Arts and Stage Set Design at the Louvre Art School.

We'll see throughout the above mentioned exhibition how these studies of him have influenced his shoes design. His career in fashion industry jumped up when he started working as a buyer for a fashion boutique in London called "Zapata" ("shoe" in Spanish). At the same time he was writing for L'Uomo Vogue (and Italian men's version of Vogue). It is just in 1978 when Ossie Clark invited him to create shoes for his runway show that " Manolo Blahnìk", as worldwide known, was born. This let him work for other major footwear brands, such as Jean Muir and Zandra Rhodes. With a loan of £2,000 Manolo acquired Zapata so to open his own boutique.

In two years he became the second man on the cover of UK Vogue (after Helmut Berger). In 1977 his brand "bursted into" US market through Bloomingdales and opened his first boutique there. His flagship store is still in Old Church Street in the fashionable Chelsea district of London. By this biography it is surprising how this very talented designer has never learnt how to make shoes in school. Rather he enhanced his skills on this by working in- and visiting shoes factories, by talking with fashion producers and taylors. He started by focusing on men footwear and then he became one of the most famous female shoes designers in the world.

Like any great couturier, MB’s shoe style is kept to small exclusive production numbers and his signature is easily recognizable. His classic Stiletto Heels are the followings: BB Pump; Hangisi Pump; Swan Pump; Campari Pump; Chaos Sandal.

Now you're ready to start visiting the exhibition through the report I made last Saturday for you (further details on my new YouTube Channel, as already cited: Cinderella' Slipper).

In welcoming visitors to this itinerary a big black wall signed by Manolo Blahnìk himself (first pic here above) where three cubes showcases shield beautiful heels of his brand. The consequent astonishment in your mind probably let you be confused in how to procede. No problem! Whether you choose to turn on the right or on the left of this black wall beautiful shoes and their related drawings are waiting for you to be admired.

Let turn on the right, as above mentioned the first section of the exhibition regards footwear dedicated to historical and contemporary characters that inspired the designer (from Alexander the Great to Brigitte Bardot until Anna Piaggi, lead editor of Vogue Italy). Here below I would like to mention just few samples of the main shoes fascinating me the most then.

In the early rooms we can admire heels with fur, lace-up, and sicilian corals. In Pic1, "Permin" pumps (2011-2012 - suede and fur shoes). Moving to subsequent rooms showcases shield multicolor leather shoes from 70's till now, ankle-boots as well as crazy neon fischerman-boots (resulting by a collaboration with Vetements), denim-country boots, bone bottoms and further fringes.

A couple of rooms later there's a glamorous heel waiting for your eyes in a showcase among eleven shoes in satin. It's "Pacrabor" ( a gold brocade sandal with hand embroidery made in 2015 - Pic2). I love this color comb. Maybe that' s why they were like calling me at the end of that corridor!

Then, we can move through further showcases with pumps as from Disney fairytales ("Guagnione" pumps (2011-2012) and "Gonul" mule (2008) in gold-velvet-lilly-white satin). A curious jump into japanese culture then faces us on strange sandals inspired to Geishas in spotted pony with aluminium four pronged heels. This is "Jetta" (2011), indeed, Pic3. At the beginning I was quite wondering about its comfort. It was not one of my favourite but here it deserves special mention as much as it is so unique. Leave back the Japanese room to move to an exotic eastern room with floral-blu printed walls hosting "savage" shoes inspired to Africa and Russia with further leather, fringes, patched style, tartan, fur, army details.

Then stop in one of my favourite rooms of this exhibition dedicated to SS2016 where flowers, fruits, trees, leaves and parfums welcome us in a fairy atmosphere. The fab "Clizia" boots are here (Pic4): mesh ankle-boots decorated with chiffon and vinyl flowers and glass beads. I loved this section where the panel explained that collection called "Nature", where a botanic flavour reminds viewer to Manolo Blanhìk childhood in Canary Islands and his fascination to " formal qualities of flowers".
The artist designed a shoe included in this collection called "Lagartija" (lizard - here on the right), "which is the result of this everlasting memory of his childhood". Nature world has been a perennial inspiring source for MB ever since his first collection made for the already mentioned Ossie Clark in 1972: a pair of shoes with featuring red suede cherries with ivy.

Subsequently, an entire room regards Marie-Antoinette movie, as already mentioned. Shoes in this room show his studies on that age to achieve results as performed in this movie (Pic5 - "Tourzel", satin mule with crystal buckle which I love the color of): a TV at the end of this section shows some scenes from that film.

Special mention to the physics-challenging heels in the subsequent sections show once more the abilities and studies of this artist in Architecture and Art: Pic6, "Armadillo" (1999) mule closed to "Plutania" (2012). His interest in nature comes back somehow anticipating the YSL pumps introduced during the last Paris Fashion Week by Anthony Vaccarello's Collection as topic of the previous post to this blog (0.6).

Let me end this post with the iconic "Hangisi" pumps performing in Sex&TheCity (here on the left): a made-in-Italy satin almond toe pump featuring Swarowski crystal buckle and a spin high heel. Sole: 100% cow leather. Lining: 100% kid leather. Heel measures 105mm. In this exhibition we'll find its pink version although we know it in blue as donned by Carrie Bradshaw (965,00$).

About this iconic pumps, Manolo Blahnìk said "I always had a fondness for brilliant accessories, so we created a court shoe with this beautiful embellished buckle, which I found in Italy. The whole shoe was inspired by Napoleon I, Josephine and Pauline Bonaparte."
I can be very satisfied by such a beautiful exhibition on footwear design art by MB. It was like visiting neither a shoes factory nor a shop. It was somthing more! It was like falling into heaven to admire this jewelry and dreaming room after room while adrenaline was increasingly controlling my senses. A unique emotion every footwear-lover like me should feel!

sources: Manoloblahnik.com, Exhibition site, Wikipedia.

0.6 - No-heel pumps on PFW17 by YSL

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 06 Mar 2017 14:45:00 +0000

In following Paris Fashion Week I bumped into Yves Saint Laurent FW17 runway. Shoes donned by the model Aviv Schneider then shocked me so much to write this post on its crazy innovation.

We're already aware of YSL genius not-only applied on footwear. In London this brand put charming pumps with its logo as heel ("Opium" pumps) on runways. Brand-new item during PFW17 is the no-heel pumps donned by models during YSL Collection by Anthony Vaccarello: "A pair of sleek black patent leather heels stepped out onto the runway without a traditional heel" (Vogue). It was minimalism winning as itself!

Difficult footwear is nothing new. In 1993 already Vivienne Weswood provided 9-inch-high platform-chopine heels. During these recent Fashion Weeks 2017 we enjoyed, above all, the disco-shaky heels by Marc Jacobs, as well as footwear by Iris Van Herpen and Maison Margelia. It's like brave designers conquering runways this year!

However, these new no-heel pumps designed by Vaccarello stroke me due to the fact I could not fully understand how they worked.
First, sentence on the bottom is almost unreadable to me. I do not know French so far: is it written "Kvuelle Moi" (not sure of this! It may be a graphic mistake instead of "Quelle Moi" = my own thing)

Secondly, my curiosity pushed me surfing on the web until I met a very interesting Vogue's post on the interview to a Physics Professor of Columbia's University (US) at this regard. To sum up the chair of Physics Prof. Michael Tuts wrote as follows: "Essentially, the foot exerts a force on the shank. That force is then transmitted to the flat heel, which, in turn, exerts a force on the ground at both ends of the flat heel. In that sense, it is not different from the regular shoe where the foot exerts a force on the shank and the shank exerts a force on the ground through the actual vertical heel and the toe, which is in contact with the ground."

Moreover, to demonstrate how the Vaccarello's pumps can successfully work otherwise getting wrong the physics scholar explained that "From the physics point of view, there is a safety concern, namely for the new shoe, the bottom piece has to extend past the point where most of the weight is pressing down on the shoe. If the bottom piece is too short, then you will tip over backward. If the bottom piece is long, then it will be stable." On the left here, the Prof. Tuts' diagram better explaining this mechanism.

By searching on USPO, EPO and WIPO databases I could not find any patent application concerning this item from YSL FW2017. This may suggest me that the French maison preferred not to promote the concerning patent request at the first step (I guess until the Vaccarello's runway above mentioned): the so called "authorization to prior public access" (which is different step by step Country by Country - as explained on WIPO website). This could explain why I could find neither any clue nor any drawing in any of the above mentioned proper websites so far. Otherwise I was not able to successfully check those databases: I will keep you posted, btw.

To complete this post let me briefly introduce Mr. Vaccarello, the italian-belgian fashion designer who, as above mentioned, debuted in YSL staff last year to substitute the fab designer, Hede Slimane, at this French maison. His debut refreshed the brand by renewing it as 80s' kitsch and kaboodle.

Prior then Anthony Vaccarello (1982) performed as Creative Director at Versus Versace, while designing his own eponymous line. Throughout his resume he boasted collaborations with another big fashion brand such as Fendi (under Karl Lagerfeld). He started studying law (one year) before enrolling at a Cambre in 2000 to study sculpture. This justifies his ability to express such arts on his collections, particularly on shoes as seen here.

During Paris Fashion Week we could admire his arts at his second collection branded Yves Saint Laurent. I think he's going surprising us all runway by runway. His career in fashion industry is just at the beginnig!

Sources: Vogue.com , AnthonyVaccarello, Fashion Week, TFL

0.5 - Oscar 2017: Jewellery walking on the Red Carpet

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 01 Mar 2017 20:30:00 +0000

Last night on the Oscar 2017 Red Carpet we saw some amazing heels donned by Hollywood stars. It's now time to focus on some of the heels walking on that Red Carpet.

Let's start with Teresa Palmer (2017 Oscar Nominee as Best Supporting Actress) in her Prada gown combined with babies by the London-based designer Sophia Webster in her last Bridal collection (pic here). A pair of satin silver sandals with crystal heels called "Effie".

Even during the 89th Academy Award Christian Louboutin weared feet by some of the stars (male and female) shining that night. That was the case, above all, of Felicity Jones, Isabelle Huppert, Justin Timberlake, and David Oleyowo. Focusing on ladies, Felicity Jones (2011 Sundance Special Jury Price, Like Crazy) showed off her golden nude-sandals with butterflies details reminding me to Cinderella' slippers (the same as designed by Louboutin himself for Disney movie as analysed in post 0.1). Isabelle Huppert (2017 Oscar Nominee as Best Actress, Elle) donned Red Sole platforms fully covered up by that brighting silver dress branded Armani.

Never miss Jimmy Choo whose jewelry walked on that charming carpet, as well. This was the case of Laura Dern (2012 Golden Globe Best Performance by an Actress in a Television Series - Comedy or Musical, Enlightened, and in 2009 as Best Performance by an Actress in a Supporting Role in a Series, Miniseries or Motion Picure Made for Television, Recount) , Leslie Mann (2014 CinemaCon Award as Comedy Star of the Year and 2007 Goden Schmoes as Best Supporting Actress of the Year, Knocked Up) and Privanka Chopr.

Unfortunately as for Mrs. Huppert their fab gowns covered up their feet, as well, so we cannot show you any pic of the above mentioned shoes. On the contrary, Emma Stone (Best Actress winner, La La Land) during the After Oscar Party showed off her classy-chic Jimmy Choo pumps after her Givenchy hat-to-toe look during the Awards Cerimony. Even Louise Rue proudly choosed Jimmy Choo in her minimal plum suede Holly 120 sandals (774 EUR).

It seems Stuart Weitzman may be nominated as another of the main footwear designers as donned on that red carpet, due to choices made by John Legend's wife Chrissy Teigen, Ginnifer Goodwin (SnowWhite in Once Upon a Time), Viola Davis (2017 Oscar as Best Supporting Actress, Fence) and Octavia Spencer (2017 Oscar Best Supporting Actress nominee, Hidden Figures).

Other celebrities weared designers such as Louis Vuitton ( Alicia Vikander, 2016 Oscar as Best Supporting Actress and 2016 Empire Awards as Best Actress, Danish Girl), Aquazzurra ( Brie Larson, 2016 Oscar as Best Performance by an Actress in a Leading Role, Room), Laurence Decade (Cynthia Erivo, musical artist performing in 2015 The Color Purple in Broadway which let her win Tony Award, Theatre World Award, Drama Desk Award and Outer Critics Circle Award), Vincent Camuto (Halle Berry, above all, 2002 Oscar as Best Actress in a Leading Role, Monter's Ball; in 2000 Golden Globe as Best Performance by an Actress in a Miniseries or Motion Picture Made for Television and Emmy Awards as Outstanding Lead Actress in a Miniseries or a Movie, Introducing Dorothy Dandridge;), Brian Atwood (Janelle Monae, singer and actress in Moonlight), Christian Lacroix ( Kirsten Dust, 2012 EDA Special Mention as Best Depiction of Nudity, Sexuality or Seduction and 2011 Cannes Award as Best Actress, Melancholia) and Calvin Klein (Naomie Harris, Moonlight Best Supporting Actress nominee, here in the pic).

I'm particuarly fascinated by sunflower yellow be-jeweled CK heels donned by this last actress above listed. We're quite aware of Naomie Harris' preference for colors even on her feet. To walk on the red carpet of 89th Academy Awards she choosed these "oh-so-elegant" crystal-embellished sandals as balancing between yellow suede and asymmetrical crystal straps from Calvin Klein Fall 2017 Collection (seen during last New York Fashion Week).

These modern evening shoes sign Raf Simons' debut in Calvin Klein team with crystal motif on the right toe and on the left ankle. The Belgian fashion designer, indeed, began in furniture design. In 1995 launched his own menswear label before his collaborations with brands, such as the followings:

Jil Sander in 2005 (as Creative Director);
between 2008 and 2009: Fred Perry (feat. Linda Farrow about Sunglasses SS2008), Asics (FW 2009 footwear collection), Adidas ( 2009 plus his own limited-edition footwear collection FW 2013), Eastpack (as for Adidas this collaboration pursued for FW2013);
Christian Dior in 2012 (as Art Director);
Capsule Denim Collection and a co-designed FW2014 feat. artist Sterling Ruby in 2014 putting in place a joint-label with their names;
the Danish design and textile company Kvadrat in 2014 included in Raf Simons' FW 2015 Menswear Collection; and
Calvin Klein itself starting from 2016 (as new chief creative officer).

2017 Oscars let all of us dream once again with glamour, brightness, beauty, talent and love shine from the red carpet until its After Party. I deliberately choosed not to mention any info about movies, awards, gaff, performances and speeches. The purpose of this blog is focused on footwear and this is the content of this post, as well.

sources: Oscar.org , footwear news.com

0.4 - Bold Stripes as Fashion Trend for the whole 2017

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 20 Feb 2017 21:01:00 +0000

After London Fashion Week (LFW FW17, 16 - 21 February) now it's Milan turn (MFW FW17, 22 - 28 february) before moving to Paris (28 February - 8 March). Let's try to have a first look at one of the main trends on the runways so far. As topic of this post, one of the main trends arisen throughout this fashion month regards colourful bold stripes as texture both in clothes and on footwear. The evergreen classic stripe with new bold size and brightness has already crowded our wardrobes last Summer when this addicting trend started. Already during Fashion Weeks on September 2016 (SS2017) many designers started putting bold stripes everywhere in their collections. This was the case of brands, such as Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Mansur Gavriel, Rag & Bone, Carven, Thom Browne, Christian Sirano, Creatures of the Wind, Salvatore Ferragamo, Getty, D&G, Emilio Pucci, Versace, Fendi, Gucci, Arthur Arbesser, Marco De Vincenzo (boots in the pic on the left here below), Marques Almeida, Topshop Unique, Paul Smith, Roksanda, and Tommy Hilfiger, Valentino.

After SS2017 collections, February 2017 has been the yearly fashion month for FW2017. First, during New York Fashion Week (9-17 February) some designers, like Tibi, kept on using bold colourful stripes on shoes, as well. Then, LFW and the ongoing MFW seem still remarking this trend. To make just few examples, footwear collections by Ashish, Charlotte Mills, Charlotte Olympia, LAX, Sophia Webster, Le Silla (in the pic here above on the right), Fendi, Prada, Miu Miu, Nine West, Loeffler Randall, Gucci, Kate Spade, Louboutin. The new item is the dizzying platform (something from Disco Inferno 70s') characterizing 2017 fashion trend no matter wheather they're pumps, sneakers or flats neither if the texture is horizontal, vertical, curvy or whatever. Once again keyword is "shock!". Stripes can cover sole, toe, plateau, heel and/or platform of your shoes so you'll ever be fashionable this year. This optimism-spreading texture is flexible, quite easy to combine and classy-chic. Fashion suggests us it's suitable in every season this year! It seems designers aren't fed up yet!

sources: Elle.com , FWO

0.3 - EU - Canada CETA and footwear sector: first peek.

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 16 Feb 2017 02:00:00 +0000

Today the EU Parliament approved the EU- Canada CETA (Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement) (previously approved by Parties on 30 october 2016). To enter into force within Europe this new agreement (hereinafter, simply "CETA") needs to be approved by EU Parliament and EU national Parliaments, as well. First step (EU Parl) done. Now, voice passes to EU citizens through their national representatives. Major targets of this new trade deal between EU and Canada seem to be: (1) to cut up to 98% of tariffs between them while boosting trade and investments; (2) to uphold Europe's high standards in areas like food safety, workers' rights and the environment; (3) to respect democracy. According to the concept of "liberalization" CETA implies the prohibition of distort competition (such as cartels, abusive behaviour by companies with a dominant market position, anti-competitive mergers, otherwise anti-dumping and countervailling measures) in favour of cooperation granting, above all, transparency and fair behaviour of all the actors involved (Ch. III - IV). In the EU Commission website it is published that "will overwhelmingly benefit small companies, create new opportunities for farmers and food producers and benefit the EU's 500 million consumers". Supporters of CETA are confident this "will increase Canadian-EU trade by 20% and boost the EU economy by €12bn (£10.9bn) a year and Canada’s by C$12bn (£7.4bn)" (guardian.com).
Taking into account, therefore, how more focused this trade deal is on sectors other than footwear, this article tries to figure out potential business chances in this field. In preparation of CETA, the EU Commission launched (2008) separated consultations processes with members of private sector and civil society plus questionnaire covering various aspects of this new trade deal and related investment relationship which anyone interested could fill in. In turn, private sector associations carried out internal consultations to get feedbacks by their members. Of course majority of participants were interested in transatlantic business and consequent outputs highlighted still many obstacles and much potential to improve bilateral relationships.

Moreover, the EU Commission' s focus on textile and clothing sector is embedded in the framework of the Market Access Strategy (MAS) as relaunched in 2007. Among MAS' major aims the followings seem anticipating CETA goals: (1) to reduce barriers to European textile exports in growing markets abroad; (2) to promote participation of European textile and clothing sector to public procurement services; (3) to ensure a fair and equal treatment focused on IPR protection and fighting counterfeiting (Partnership EU - Canada on textile and footwear). The MAS promoted a joint forum among economic operators, Member States and the Commission itself which started meetings in 2009 on a regular basis (approximately 3 times per year). Problems about supplying of raw materials have arisen lately in textile and clothing sector then the EU addresses related problems within the framework of its Raw Material Initiative. CETA provisions try to face difficulties struggled by EU footwear sector about, first, high / non-tariffs barriers affecting its exports in several markets, and, secondy, counterfeiting and piracy. As above mentioned CETA art. 2.4 - "Reduction and elimination of custom duties on imports" remarks one of the major pillars of this deal with the aim to promote trade liberalization in goods (stating exemptions as per this deal). Subsequent art. 3.1 introduces the concept of "rules of origin" in Ch. III titled to anti-dumping and countervailling measures (another CETA pillar and among the targets of the above mentioned EU MAS).In particular, "Rules of Origin" (RoO) as defined by an ad hoc CETA Protocol set conditions under which products can be qualified as "European" and "Canadian" relevant for tariff preferences by the trade deal itself (Change of Tariff Heading, CTH). In other words, EU companies producing footwear will now have duty free access to the Canadian market if their products are wholly made in EU with EU materials. Otherwise restrictions still remain for that footwear made in the EU with uppers are imported by extra-EU contries as attached to the insoles to be finished. This leds to "customs and trade facilitation" (Ch.VI) aiming to "streamline customs procedures and make them more efficient", therefore remarking the following principles: transparency, streamlined and risk-based procedures, certainty and predictability.
"Hot topics" in EU - Canada CETA for the purpose of this post are rather the followings:

this trade deal opens up to investments, on one hand, (Ch. VIII), by focusing on foreign direct ones (FDIs) which seem being promoted by ad hoc dispute settlement clauses (further info on Germany's claims as background to said clauses here: euractiv.com). On the other hand, its Ch. XIII rules financial resources towards increasing liberalization (btw, financial firms can provide cross-border services only in a limited number of sectors - eg. certain insurance and banking);
e-commerce, which I must say footwear (and not only) market is increasingly based on: Ch. XVI explicitly refers to "any business done electronically (e.g. online shopping)" providing warranties that online services will not include customs duties;
intellectual property rights (as defined by TRIPS Section 1 through 7 Part II):Ch. XX provides standards and regulations as well as outline procedures to protect against IP violations so to reach "an adequate and effective level of protection and enforcement of intellectual property rights" (art. 20.1 (b)). Before CETA some EU - Canada differences on IPRs protection regarded, for example, digital media: lack of strong protection for TPM (technological protection measures) affecting contents in digital form when shared. Moreover, the new joint approach between these Parties in protecting IPRs under CETA could contribute in developing a more unified front by OECD countries.
Finally, public procurements: Ch. XIX includes government contracts (i.e. federal governments as well as provinces, regions, cities and state-owned enterprises). This seems correcting the less openness of Canada market for this type of contracts rather reaching a balance with EU in standards, common definitions and policies. More probably this will be a key-issue for further discussions between EU and Canada.

Few conclusions for footwear sector.
First, among the main CETA targets the reduction of tariffs and custom duties could risk to act as a disincentive to trade by EU: low tariffs, indeed, could work as a competitive disadvantage towards diverting trade. Despite CETA provisions on tariffs, for EU private sector Canadian duties still remain in place on, among others, textile/apparel (18% vs 17% EU tariffs faced by Canadian private sector. These EU data refer also to footwear and leather), other manufactures (18% vs 16% EU tariffs for Canadian products), and leather (20%). Canadian enterprise had no preferential access to European market before CETA which then puts the basis to improve this (Assessing the cost and benefits of a closer EU - Canada economic partnership - A joint study by the EU Commission and the Government of Canada). Consequently, EU shoes are quite cheaper in Canadian market.
Many of EU-Canadian divergences in terms of technical standards and regulations on health and safety, and environmental protection seem still affecting merchandise trade (despite CETA provisions on compliance and some previous agreements on specific sectors, i.e. pharmaceutics).
Many open issues, therefore, still remain even in footwear sector. The following comment by John Saunders,CEO of the BFA (British Footwear Association) well shows different and sometimes divergent interests (depending on economic and political evaluations) to the new EU - Canada CETA:

“With a lower value of Sterling – CETA does offer a real opportunity for many UK manufacturers and brands to increase sales of domestically and European produced footwear to Canada” (footweartoday.co.uk)

0.2 - Casadei Patented Sole

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 13 Feb 2017 21:00:00 +0000

Now I wanna focus on one of my favourite made-in-Italy footwear designers: Casadei.

This brand was born in a small factory at San Mauro Pascoli (Italy) in 1958 as founded by Quinto e Flora Casadei. First target of this brand was focused on turists in Riviera. Thanks to the economic boom and the so called "made-in-Italy miracle", Casadeis have increased production, market and profits in 10 years. Soon this small lab became an enterprise exporting in Germany and U.S.. Today its business growing is up to 20%/year with 16 flagship stores and a pretty new show-room in New York. Its' upon to open shops and corners in Russia, Cina and Middle East. Many worldwide celebrites love wearing a pair of C.'s pumps: to make just few examples: Beyoncè, JLo, Lady Gaga, Jessica Biel, and the Italians Eva Riccobono and Ilary Blasi. Last Casadei patent regards a new ornamental design on the sole of its shoes: a chain (USD730,033, May 26 2015). The State of Arts behind this patent attaches, above all, another interesting Casadei patent on this "chain sole" for heels (USD 657,944, Apr. 24 2012). One of the major differences between these two Casadei's inventions regards the extension of this motif along the sole of the shoes: while in the last one (2015), it seems running along the whole shoe - with predominant use in sneakers as we'll see in a bit - , in the previous one (2012) it appears just in the plateau. Differences between these two, then, are about new and innovative use and distinctiveness of the design. This motif therefore leads all Casadei collections from then on. As already mentioned, in Casadei Sneaker Collection SS2013 the rubber sole recalls this iconic item: "in soft nappa leather or suede, feature distinctive elements such as a hidden 8 centimeter wedge heel and a double face structure, which allows for them to be worn as a boot or bootie". In Casadei New Arrivals - SS17 Collection this motif comes once again. Particularly interesting to me the T-sandals (heirs of the above mentioned patent USD 657,944/2012) in Montana blue (one of SS17 trending colors.): leather heels, 140 mm with 40mm plateau and 100% made in Italy; price: 750 EUR (see pic here). This color leads all Casadei new collection, as shown in the last Insta-video. This blue is so gorgeous that reminds me to the sea where I come from!

Sources: US Patent and Trademark Office; Casadei website; Montana Colors website

0.1 - Modern-Day Cinderella

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 06 Feb 2017 08:21:00 +0000

11 of the world’s hottest footwear designers (above all, Manolo Blahnik, Nicholas Kirkwood, Rene Caovilla and Stuart Weitzman) have matched to create their interpretation of Cinderella’s glass slippers according to Dinsey Movie in 2015 (starring Downton Abbey’s Lily James, Cate Blanchett and Helena Bonham Carter..have you watched it? Fab!) Here I'm gonna mention some of them and leave you free to check more deeply here: Metro.co.uk.

Jimmy Choo Creative Director Sandra Choi has rethought the evergreen babies for all Cinderellas worldwide. Based on the the iconic pointy toed pump of this brand, Choi's new design adds thousands of Swarovski crystals to Disney Princess heels. What's peculiar in this model is a 'crystal cluster' hand embroidered to the toe of the upper....what magical art in designing them! This jewelry has been made in Italy with a shimmer suede upper, leather sole and insole. Each shoe has 7000 crystals and 46 embroidered stones fixed to the upper. Heel height measure 100mm/3.9 inches. Available to order online for a limited time on: Jimmy Choo website . This is a fairytale pair of shoes which can be easily added to the dreamlist (more than wish-one) of many Cinderellas worldwide at the price of 3.495,00 USD.

The winner of the above mention "crystal" competition under Disney umbrella was the parisian Christian Louboutin. The glamorous partnership with Disney provided a pair of slippers where crystals, lace and butterflies shine on Cinderella's feet. During 2015 Haute Couture Paris fashion week it was revealed "Louboutin’s Cinderella heels perfectly encapsulate the beauty and fantasy of Walt Disney’s legendary film. Featuring delicate white lace uppers embellished with twinkling crystals and two sparkling butterflies" (Stylist) This artist explained: -“Her character and her story dictated the design to me, It was all there in the pages and the words of this tale. The slipper is the magic wand of transformation which conjures confidence, beauty and love.” Louboutin patented this jewelry as USD715034 titled Footwear and awarded on October. 14, 2014. (click here for details).