A Hamburger Today

Cook the Book: Plantain Shoestring Fries

Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:00:00 -0500

Plantains are not that popular in the U.S., but the rest of the world eats them up. They are a starchy staple of many tropical countries' diets. Wikipedia lists no fewer than 23 regional dishes that revolve around plantains. In the Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Colombia, Honduras, and Venezuela they are sliced into chips and called plátanos maduros. In Cuba they are mashed into a porridge known as fufu. Plantains are fried in Ivory Coast and served with a tomato onion sauce and grilled fish to make aloco.

This recipe for Plantain Shoestring Fries from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes is a great introduction to cooking with plantains. Most stores sell ripe and unripe plantains; they both look like giant mutant bananas, except that one type will be green and firm and the other will be black and soft. This recipe calls for the unripe, green variety, which is starchy enough to fry up crisp.

Win 'Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes'

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes to give away this week. Enter to win here »

Plantain Shoestring Fries

- serves 4 to 6 -

Adapted from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes by Bobby Flay.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons grated lime zest
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
5 cups peanut oil
4 green plantains

Procedure

1. Stir together the salt, lime zest, and cayenne in a small bowl.

2. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed medium stockpot over medium heat, or a tabletop deep fryer, to 375° F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.

3. While the oil is heating, peel the plantains. To peel the plantains: use a sharp knife to cut off the top and bottom ends. With the tip of the knife, make one slit in the skin of the plantain from top to bottom. Run the plantain under cold water and use your thumb and fingers to work the peel away from the fruit, beginning at the slit. Cut 1/2 inch off the ends of each plantain, then slice the plantains lengthwise with a U-shaped peeler or a mandoline into very thin strips ( about 1/8 inch thick). Cut each strip lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick fries.

4. Fry in batches, turning frequently, until golden brown, about 45 seconds. Remove with a mesh skimmer to the baking sheet lined with paper towels and season immediately with the salt mixture.

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 19:00:00 -0500

Best Hamburger in Anchorage, AK: Arctic Roadrunner Local Burgerman, besides being fun to say, serves up a solid burger in the cold reaches of the far north. [MetalSucks]
Sydney's New Burger Mania: Grill'd is a departure from the "greasy takeaway shop" fare where the philosophy is "healthy burgers, healthy mind." [Grab Your Fork]
Burger Truck Trend Continues in California: Johnny Rockets, the Southern California burger chain, is debuting a food truck on July 30 at the Washington Redskins training camp. [OCRegister.com]
Fries the Way to Go at Checkers/Rally's:The fries at this burger chain are battered with "seasoned crack." [Food in Mouth]

Houston Taco and Burger Mashup

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 18:00:00 -0500

Photograph by J.C. Reid

Googling "taco burger" mostly results in recipes for taco-flavored burgers. That's not nearly as cool as J. C. Reid's taco burger at Eating Our Words consisting of a burger topped with taco filling, thus combining two of Houston's most beloved foodstuffs. Reid grabbed some beef tongue tacos from a taco truck, brought them to Hubcap Grill, and joined the two in harmony:

This taco burger was amazing. The coarse texture of the beef patty worked great with the finer texture of the tongue. The spicy cilantro and onions were the perfect toppings for the burger. The hot sauces added an incredible kick to the whole assemblage. A true culinary fusion.

Yea or nay? I'd eat it.

Weekend Cooking Project: Burgers

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:30:00 -0500

Whenever I get the chance to use a photo of the Hamburger Fatty Melt, I take it.

Every week on Serious Eats we hold a Weekend Cook and Tell where we suggest a cooking project for the weekend for members of the Serious Eats community to make and report on the following week. This week's Fourth of July-appropriate project: burgers!

Check out AHT's recipes section if you need some inspiration. Here are some of our less conventional burger recipes:

If you're looking for something more involved this holiday weekend, you can go the Kenji Alt way with a 'Hand-Chopped, Dry-Aged, Grass-Fed, Beef-Fat-Basted, Bad-Ass Burger', or the Blumenburger. No matter what you make, I will gladly accept any invitations to your cookout. [Cough.]

McDonald's Releases New Angus Third Pounders Nationwide

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:00:00 -0500

Today McDonald's rolls out their first new burgers nationwide in eight years: Angus Third Pounders. Kevin Pang of Chicago Tribune has a rundown of the three $3.99 burgers, recommending the Mushroom & Swiss over the Deluxe and the Bacon & Cheese. Related: McDonald's Angus Third Pounder

Burgerpocalypse: White Diamond Closed?

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 13:10:00 -0500

A distressing comment was left yesterday by AHT reader mduda on my recent review of White Diamond:

Sadly, White Diamond in Linden appears to be closed. There is a paper "CLOSED" sign in the window, the listed phone number rings unanswered, and the restaurant was closed and locked when visited last week on two separate days for lunch and dinner. Very sad—I only had the chance to eat there once, but excellent burgers.

I have been calling in a frantic panic since yesterday but the phone just rings and rings with no answer. I actually went back to White Diamond the week after my review with Josh Ozersky and I have to say that it was even better than I described. Ozersky was as impressed and even blogged about it over at Rachel Ray

Hopefully they are just on holiday; we are coming up on the July Fourth weekend after all, although you would expect that the sign would indicate this. If it turns out that White Diamond is really closed, it is a real tragedy for it is truly one of the last of a dying breed of genuinely authentic slider emporiums. The hamburger I ate on my last visit was as close to the platonic ideal of hamburger perfection as any I have tried. In fact, it might have been the best hamburger I have ever eaten.

If any of our readers have further information please let us know.

Marcella Lassen's Hamburger Art

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:30:00 -0500

An email from Switzerland-based artist Marcella Lassen just alerted me to her new website, and I realized I've been remiss in highlighting her series of hamburger art here on AHT. She actually has a separate site for the series, www.hamburger-art.de, which gives the following explanation of her work:

Though her subject matter, the hamburger, has its roots in daily American life, in the 21st Century it has taken center stage on a global scale. Ms. Lassen’s consistent focus on this seemingly trivial subject manifests the significance of the hamburger being one of the very few cultural icons known in even the remotest corners of the world. Both formally and in content, her interpretations elaborate how this simple bun with a meat patty has found its way into our collective consciousness: what it represents for each individual consumer and non-consumer, and how individual interpretation is colored by social, political, economic, ecological, even personal factors. The content of Ms. Lassen’s interpretations is defined by a variety of perspectives: ironic, or philosophical, critical or with a humorous slant. "It contains an expanding powerhouse of potential for creative interpretation," she says.

Above, clockwise from left: "The Blue Burger," "The White Lettered Burger," and "The Squiggly Line Burger," all gouache on paper.

Is West Village Joe Jr's About To Be History?

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 09:45:00 -0500

From Serious Eats: New York

Photographs by Robyn Lee

This just in from United States of Arugula author and serious eater David Kamp:

Ed,
HELP! Just walked past Joe Jr's, my beloved local greasy spoon [Kamp is very fond of greasy spoons. —Ed], and they have big handwritten signs in the window saying they've lost their lease after 35 yrs. They are asking people to sign a petition to save Joe Jr. and to "spread the word," I guess in hopes of pressuring the landlord not to cut them loose.

Could Joe Jr's really be history? Say it ain't so, Joe! Where will hungover serious eaters who live in Greenwich Village go to recuperate?

Joe Jr. Restaurant

482 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (at West 12th Street; map)
212-924-5220

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 19:00:00 -0500

Burger Insanity for the 'New York Times': A Voodoo Doughnut Burger from The Original in Portland, Oregon, may rank as insane for this NYT blogger, but AHT readers already upped the ante months ago. [The Moment Blog]
How Should Burgers Be Cooked?: From medium rare to medium well, people may never agree on the way burgers "should" be cooked. [SE Talk, 6/29/09]
Best Burger Joint in Los Angeles?: The burger from 25 Degrees is "slightly pricey, but always delicious." [hambur.gr]
Food Network's Best Burger of Maryland Pick a Hit The "Heart Attack on a Plate" from Mother's Federal Hill Grille in Baltimore is an eight ounce burger that has been stuffed with cheese, battered, and deep fried. It's a novelty burger, well-executed. [Hamburger Calculus]
Another Opinion on NYC's Corner Bistro: A boring patty is saved by a toppings extravaganza and late night hours. [NYC Food Guy]
A Wine with Your Burger?: Try a glass of red from the Daily Herald's list of suggestions with your next burger. [Daily Herald]
Camel Burgers the Next Big Thing?: Three brothers in Saudi Arabia have turned a common food in the Middle East into a hit item at their new burger restaurant. It's apparently "light and isn't greasy." [NBC2 News]
Sweet Burgers in Deadwood, South Dakota: The Sugar Shack's sugar burger gets its name from the "sweet onions that are fried and put on top." [The Heavy Table]

Dear AHT

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 16:57:50 -0500

OK, I just got back to California after my yearly one-month trip to NYC. I did burgers at Shake Shack, Corner Bistro, Little Owl, Corner Bistro, and Dressler's. The winner was The Little Owl. Just ask to remove the bacon; it distracts from the burger rather than enhancing.
—Donald K.

Tips on How to Make the Perfect Burger

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 16:30:00 -0500

New York Times interviewed 30 chefs to get tips on how to make the perfect burgers—what kind of meat, how to form it, how to cook it, and what kind of bun to use, along with related recipes. There's also an interactive burger diagram. What do you think of their advice?

'Consumer Reports' Rates Fast Food French Fries

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 15:40:28 -0500

From Serious Eats

Unfortunately, Consumer Reports only hits the big three—McDonald's, Burger King, and Wendy's. The two redheads get "very good" ratings while the King merely receives a "good," with CR saying what I've always thought about BK fries: "coating detracts from the quality and makes texture a little tough, not crispy."

A Burger Simulation at Jewel City Diner in Glendale, California

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 14:30:00 -0500

Jewel City Diner

629 Americana Way, Glendale CA 91210 (map); 818-637-8998‎; americanaatbrand.com
Cooking Method: Griddled
Short Order: A postmodern burger failure
Want Fries with That? No. Did I mention NO?
Prices: Jewel City Burger, $6.96
Notes: Wednesdays kids eat free. Maybe they won't notice how bad the food is.

The fact that full scale mixed-use mall complexes have begun to blossom here in Los Angeles is, like our penchant for storytelling, not such a big deal in and of itself. What makes the construction of these instant-communities of note is that our malls (and their culture) have a way of sneaking into the lives of people all over the country. Like the Hollywood narratives that have for years vied for attention in America’s living rooms, Los Angeles’ newest iteration of the shopping complex is angling to become your living room.

Billionaire real estate developer Rick Caruso has re-imagined the mall as a mix of residential and retail space that is a funhouse attraction of the American Main Street seen through a Las Vegas lens. High-end shopping destinations and chain eateries surround facsimiles of the town square, anchored by gratuitous "dancing waters" attractions. Atop the retail outlets sit posh residences which allow shoppers to literally live at the mall. After a series of hugely successful developments across Southern California, Caruso set his sights on the sleepy bedroom community of Glendale and its waning credit limits.

The Americana at Brand is perhaps the premier example of Caruso’s vision (thus far). Hundreds of millions of Caruso's own dollars were transfused into equally valuable land that the City of Glendale gifted him in hopes that he might stamp out another success from his tested mold. And what has Caruso gifted the Serious Eater in return? A meticulously kept, terrazzo-paved hamburger stand. Jewel City Diner is a paean to America’s classic eatery and also, incidentally, a homage to one of Glendale's beloved restaurants from the bygone days. All this in mind, I set aside my mall aversion to try the Jewel City Burger.

The restaurant itself—a glossy, high-quality burger stand—sits in a crowded corner of the open-air mall. The inside space is limited, but beautifully rendered in light blues, whites, and stainless steel. Given Caruso’s rumored obsession with cleanliness and this being his first foray into opening a self-owned restaurant within one of his own developments, it comes as little surprise that the establishment looks primped and designed within an inch of its life and ready for franchise expansion.

I order the Jewel City Burger, which comes with lettuce that boasts hand-torn status. I’m not exactly sure what hand-tearing adds to the lettuce's success on the burger, but I imagine I’ll find out. There’s also tomato, pickle, and onion. The cheese options exclude American. Yeah, I know—I don’t get it either. I decide on a cheese-less burger and ask for it medium rare. I also ask for a 50/50 order of fries and onion rings.

The burger arrives looking like the American classic. It's an attractively paper-wrapped Southern Californian with a seeded bun that has seen some time on the griddle. Unfortunately, I quickly discover that this burger, like the putative town square outside, is pure simulation. I can barely believe how flavorless this sexy thing is. Like some dazzling postmodern art-piece that sucks you in with its beauty and reveals no substance, it’s all signifier. Bun, patty, and toppings all looked to be in order, but when I enter a place like this, I'm looking for that taste I call home. I felt like Gertrude Stein going back to Oakland: There is no there there.

The bun tastes like a commercial exercise in dissembling. It appears to be a delicious, spongy bun, but is instead a dry, bready, bun-type mass more akin to generic brand white bread. The veggies look supermarket-ready with their attractive sheen, but reveal themselves to be the flavorless, waterlogged products of a commercial farm designed to squeeze every possible truckload of yield per acre. Even the most passionate rending by human hands won't save tasteless lettuce.

The patty itself is a dessicated, underseasoned, gray hockey puck that, at only a 1/4-pound pre-cooked, was already too small to stand up to the mass of bread and toppings. I can barely get through half of it before giving up.

The fries and rings don’t offer any solace. Almost no crispness can be detected from the fries and the rings carry a sour tang that turns me off. When I take a look at the open kitchen I notice two disturbing realities. A patty sits unattended as its overcooking causes the meat to curl at the edges in some sort of inanimate gesture of surrender. When I spy the oil in the fryer, I notice a bubbling darkness that signals it’s time for me to move on.

And so I do. I make my way back across the emerald green lawn and past the dancing fountains and notice a subtle uneasiness creeping up my back like the incipient fever of a sickness yet to be named. Everything looks fine. There is no sign that anything is amiss. In fact, just the opposite; The Americana is a landscape chirping with signs that are there to assuage, but it all only intensifies my dissatisfaction.

I must admit, disliking the burger to this extent was somewhat of a shock. Despite my intrinsic suspicion of glossy private spaces designed to look public, I did expect to like this establishment just a little bit. As in a Hollywood blockbuster, I retain hope of encountering so seductive a spectacle that my pleasure erases the idea that a plot ever mattered. In the case of the Jewel City Diner, unfortunately, I couldn’t isolate a single aspect of their burger that pleased me. In the end, it seemed to counter those exact qualities the burger has come to signify about America: quality, simplicity, and accessibility. The Jewel City burger isn’t American—it’s just an attempt at Americana.

Guide to Burgers in Sasebo, Japan

Wed, 01 Jul 2009 12:30:00 -0500

Sasebo99

Don't visit Sasebo, Japan, without checking out some of their famous burgers. Sasebo99 has a Japanese guide and map (here's a Google translation) to 34 burger joints in the city accompanied by descriptions, burger measurements, and food porn. [via sleepytako]

Related: Sa Sa Sasebo

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 19:00:00 -0500

Wendy's Fries the Best: According to Consumer Reports, Wendy's fries reigns supreme over those from McDonald's and Burger King. [Ledger-Enquirer.com]
Bubba Burger wins 'Regis and Kelly' Grill-Off: The Cutting Board in Eureka, Montana, emerged as the champion in the Ultimate Hometown Grill Off with a mesquite-fired patty topped with spicy Cajun sausage, jumbo shrimp, chipotle sauce, and cheddar cheese. [Daily Inter Lake]
Angus Third Pounders Not So Bad: McD's makes up for the Big 'N Tasty fiasco of 2001 with new offering of Angus beef burgers. [GrubGrade]
Good Question: "How should burgers be cooked?" [SE Talk]

Hot Chicks Eating Carl’s Jr. and Hardee's Burgers Contest

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 17:30:00 -0500

If you think you're better than Audrina Patridge and you're a hot young female who loves Carl's Jr. or Hardee's, this contest is for you. Hardee's and Carl's Jr. are holding a Hot Chicks Eating Burgers Contest where women (of the "hot chick" variety) are invited to submit videos of themselves eating their favorite burgers from Carl's Jr. or Hardee's while saying "Hot Chicks Eating Burgers" at some point in the video. Upload your video to Break.com by July 12 and, based on how high users rate your video, you could win $1000 and a trip to Las Vegas.

There's only one woman whose video I'd want to see: Sarah Haskins.

Video: Audrina Patridge's Teriyaki Burger Commercial from Carl's Jr.

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 16:00:00 -0500

Here's another video of an attractive woman eating a burger in a way that no normal person would ever eat a burger. A bikini-clad, beach lounging Audrina Patridge of The Hills stars in Carl's Jr.'s latest sexed up commercial featuring the Teriyaki Burger. "To look this hot in a bikini, I gotta give up, like everything," she says. "But there's no way I'm giving up that Teriyaki Burger." Somehow I'm not convinced, but maybe I have to be a young male to get it. Watch the video after the jump.

Audrina Patridge's Teriyaki Burger Commercial from Carl's Jr.

In Videos: 'Target: Women,' Carl's Jr. Edition
In Videos: Padma Lakshmi's Bacon Western Thickburger Commercial

Cook the Book: Perfect Burger

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 13:00:00 -0500

From Recipes

Independence Day is a day for fireworks and barbecues and, most importantly—in my opinion, at least—burgers. There is no need to tell you that we are big fans of burgers here at Serious Eats; we like them so much that we have an entire blog devoted to them. Burgers are an American staple and it's no coincidence that they are the centerpiece of most Fourth of July get-togethers. Who doesn't love a juicy, perfectly charred burger?

Bobby Flay is a devoted burger lover. Not content with merely eating them, he opened a chain of burger palaces and wrote a book all about burgers and their partners in crime, fries and shakes.

While burger recipes in Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes get pretty crazy, one thing remains the same, and that is the quality and preparation of the burger itself. Flay is a purist, nothing more than ground chuck, preferably Certified Angus, and some salt and pepper. No additional spices, binders, or fillers are added to Flay's perfect burger. When you start adding onions, garlic, eggs, or breadcrumbs, you end up with a miniature meatloaf, not a burger. There are two important steps in making the perfect burger: The first is not over-thinking it, and the second is not overcooking it.

Win 'Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes'

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes to give away this week. Enter to win here »

Perfect Burger

- serves 4 -

Adapted from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes by Bobby Flay.

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds ground chuck (80 percent lean)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil
4 slices cheese (optional)
4 hamburger buns, split; toasted, if desired

Procedure

1. Divide the meat into 4 equal portions (about 6 ounces each). Form each portion loosely into a 3/4-inch-thick burger and make a deep impression in the center with your thumb. Season both sides of each burger with salt and pepper.

2. If using a grill: Heat a gas grill to high or heat coals in a charcoal grill until they glow bright orange and ash over. Brush the burgers with oil. Grill the burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the first side, about 3 minutes. Flip over the burgers. Cook burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, 4 minutes for medium rare (3 minutes if topping with cheese; see step 3) or until cooked to desired degree of doneness.

If using a grill pan: Heat a grill pan over high heat on top of the stove. Cook the burgers as for a grill, above.

If using a saute pan or griddle (preferably cast iron): Heat the oil in the pan or griddle until the oil begins to shimmer. Cook the burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the first side. Flip over the burgers. Cook burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, 4 minutes for medium rare (3 minutes if topping with cheese; see step 3) or until cooked to desired degree of doneness.

3. Add the cheese, if using, to the tops of the burgers during the last minute of cooking and top with a basting cover, close the grill cover, or tent the burgers with aluminum foil to melt the cheese.

4. Sandwich the hot burgers between the buns and serve immediately.

A Fantastic New York City-Style Burger from HB Burger

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 12:00:00 -0500

"The craggy, salty crust is as thick as that on a prime steak and the impossibly juicy innards gush torrents all over the squishy bun."

HB Burger

127 West 43rd St New York 10036; map); 212-575-5848; hbburger.com
Cooking Method: Griddled
Short Order: Perfectly cooked juicy burger served on a potato roll. What's not to love?
Want Fries with That? Potentially scrumptious home made tater tots failed to deliver—stale and tepid
Price: Cheeseburger, $8

Thanks to Louis-Camille Maillard, we know why hamburgers are a compelling dish. Back in the 1910s, the French chemist and physician started researching amino acids and the way they react to sugars. The result of his research—called the Maillard reaction—was the discovery that when amino acids and sugars are made to react together (usually by heat) they release aromas and flavors as well as produce a browning effect similar to the non-enzymatic one that occurs during caramelization. This reaction does not so much intensify the taste of food as much as create whole new flavors and aromas. The reaction has been indispensable in our understanding of taste—indeed, it forms the foundation for the entire flavoring industry.

There has been some speculation that the browning of meat from searing—especially on lean white meats that contain very few of the reducing sugars required for the reaction—might not be the Maillard reaction at all, but rather a result of the "breakdown of tetrapyrrole rings of the muscle protein" (whatever that means). In defense of the notion that the Maillard reaction does occur during the cooking of high fat foods, such as the hamburger, I present the HB Burger—a hamburger so juicy, fatty, and toothsome, with possibly the best sear I have ever had on a patty that it could be used in place of a lengthy white paper dissertation to prove the point.

The burger menu at HB Burger is refreshingly sparse and simple. While they offer two "specialty" burgers—a Philly cheesesteak (roasted peppers, onions, and provolone cheese; what, no Whiz?!) and a blue cheese-stuffed Buffalo-style burger (oxymoronically offered with "mild hot sauce")—the menu is basically an à la carte affair with a variety of topping for an additional charge. Seven varieties of cheese, the predictable bacon, and mushrooms go for between $1 and $1.75. Rabbit food and pickles are free, but you won't need any of it. Skip the cheese too. The beef is so good and the potato roll is such a perfect vessel (despite being a bit cool) that they are all one needs to reach burger Nirvana. Let the Californians have their mountains of lettuce and "special" sauce on thin waif-like patties, the Australians their fried egg and beets-topped burgers, the fancy chefs their stuffed, neutered abominations. The HB Burger screams, "NEW YORK CITY!"

And, like the city, everything about the HB Burger is done in perfect excess—the craggy, salty crust is as thick as that on a prime steak and the impossibly juicy innards gush torrents all over the squishy bun. Biting into the burger elicits an audible squelch and even before the saltiness and acridity from the sear has registered on your tongue, your mouth will be enveloped in the pure beef flavor—as intense as drinking au jus from a rib roast. The potato roll becomes juice logged, but rather than falling apart it becomes elasticized and manages to hold everything together.

In a city that has a seemingly endless variety of hamburgers, it is no coincidence that some of the most celebrated are simple griddle-cooked five to six ounce burgers served on plain buns using exceptional beef, such as those from J. G. Melon, P.J. Clarke's, and Shake Shack. HB Burger joins this noble tradition by offering a fantastic hamburger and adding credence to the notion that a distinct and refined New York City-style of burger is emerging. Too bad Maillard, who died in 1936, never got to try it. Not because it makes such a compelling case for his theory, but because it tastes so good.

Dear AHT: 'Help! I'm Allergic to Beef"

Tue, 30 Jun 2009 10:10:40 -0500

Buffalo burgers seem to be a substitute for one burger lover suffering from an allergy to beef. But is there a tastier solution? Photograph from mandj98 on Flickr

Dear AHT,
A great burger is my absolute favorite food in the world. About 20 years ago in my early twenties, I developed an allergy to beef. So whenever I ate beef, I would break out in severe hives and swell up like a blowfish. I would test his allergy regularly and ended up surviving on benadryl tablets as dessert until the allergic reactions stopped completely after about a year.
Suddenly about 8 months ago, I began having the same allergic reaction to beef. How ironic! I will still partake simply by sneaking a couple benadryls in before I eat then sleep for the next 12 hours. I will buy ground buffalo, which is an OK substitute, but this is limited and cannot be found at the great burger restaurants in the greater NYC area.
Have you heard of anyone or has any of your readers experienced a similar allergic reaction to beef? If so, how did they respond? I am desperately seeking alternatives to my burger fixation.
Bovinely challenged,
Bryan
Princeton, New Jersey

------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Bryan,
Wow. You have my deepest sympathies.

Never in all my years of involvement with AHT have I ever heard of anyone having a beef allergy. Wheat, peanuts, etc., sure. But beef, wow.

I am hoping someone out there has an answer to your question.

And I'm also hoping this recent round of allergies passes as did the first one you experienced.

Beef and sympathy,
Adam

Got a question for the AHT editors or the AHT community at large? Grill us: burger@seriouseats.com

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:00:00 -0500

Inside Out Burger a Bust in NYC: In the Financial District, The Federal Cafe lures in customers with a $9.99 special, but the previously frozen patty doesn't make the cut. [The BLD Project]
GQ's #1 Burger is Still a Hit: Le Tub, in Hollywood, Florida, is still serving up their nearly one pound burger. Thankfully, its sheer size is "overshadowed by the rich, juicy flavor." [AlwaysHungry NY]
No Love for Tuby's Tickler in Austin, TX: Hut's Hamburgers' burger with chili, jalapenos, and grated cheese is just blah. Plus, no milkshake overrun was offered—a cardinal sin. [Cook's Tour]
Bitchin' Caribou Burger in Anchorage, AK: Snow Goose Restaurant serves a Tundra Caribou Cheeseburger that is "totally bitchin'!" Leaner than beef, but with a wild game taste, it could be an interesting alternative to beefalo. [The Great Burger Conquest]
Japanese Burger Needs More Flavor: At Sasebo burger shop Ata-go in Kansai, Japan, has a nice toasted bun, but the meat's flavor falls flat. [sleepytako]

Dear AHT: Have You Ever Gotten Food Poisoning from a Burger?

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 15:00:00 -0500

Burger from The Spotted Pig.

Recently after talking to my dad about an excellent burger that I got at a local restaurant, my dad told me that “ You really should get your burger cooked more than medium-rare.” I told him that I am perfectly fine with my burger the way it is and if I get sick than it is my own fault, but I will still continue to order it that way even afterwards because it tastes so much better.
It got me thinking and I figured I would pose the question to "Burger Authority"; have your ever gotten sick from ordering an "undercooked" burger or do you ever wonder if it could happen to you?
—Josh "Loving the Medium-Rare" S.

------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Josh "Loving the Medium-Rare" S.,

No and no.

Chars,
Adam

Cook the Book: Perfect French Fries

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 13:15:00 -0500

From Recipes

I think that french fries are underappreciated. Sure, everyone eats them and enjoys them but do we ever really stop to think about the process of the french fry? I hadn't until I started working in a restaurant kitchen that prided itself on its fresh-cut fries. I quickly became acquainted with the long and painstaking evolution of the prefect fry. Hours of cutting, soaking, rinsing, re-rinsing, frying, cooling, and re-frying go into this classic burger accompaniment. French fries are not just fried potatoes.

Making the perfect fries is a learning process; it took Bobby Flay years to perfect his technique. Here are a few of his tips for mastering the art of the perfect fry from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes.

Russets or baking potatoes are the best, whereas waxy potatoes (such as Red Bliss or new potatoes) simply won't do. Soaking is key—this removes the starch, keeps the potatoes from sticking together, and eliminates the sugars that prevent the potatoes from achieving maximum crispness. As far as oils go, peanut oil is the best for deep frying. It has a high smoking point and a taste that is mild enough not to overpower the potatoey goodness of your fries. While countertop deep fryers are great you don't need one to make fantastic fries at home. A heavy-bottomed pot, a wire mesh strainer, a deep-fry thermometer, and a roll of paper towels are the only pieces of equipment you need for piles of golden brown, crisp and delicious fries at home.

Win 'Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes'

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes to give away this week. Enter to win here »

Perfect French Fries

- serves 4 -

Adapted from Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes by Bobby Flay.

Ingredients

5 large Russet potatoes, peeled or well scrubbed, if leaving leaving the skin on
1 quart peanut oil
Kosher salt

Procedure

1. Cut the potatoes lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, then cut each slice lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick fries. Put the fries in a large bowl of cold water and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours.

2. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed medium stockpot over medium heat, or in a tabletop deep fryer, to 325° F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.

3. Drain the fries well and pat dry in batches with paper towels. Fry each batch, turning frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes or until the fries are a pale blond color and limp. Remove with a mesh skimmer to the baking sheet lined with paper towels.

4. Increase the heat of the oil to 375° F.

5. Fry the potatoes again, in batches, turning frequently, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove with the skimmer and drain on clean paper towels. Season immediately with salt and serve hot.

Cook the Book: 'Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes'

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 13:00:00 -0500

From Serious Eats

Do you ever wonder what chefs eat? You'd think that with access to a well-stocked walk-in and state-of-the-art kitchen they would eat exceptionally well, on par or better than the food that we pay for in their restaurants. You might think that it is all white truffles, foie gras, and vintage Bordeaux—but the reality is a bit bleaker.

Chefs are usually too busy preparing for service to sit down to a proper meal. Days start early, end late, and there is no lunch hour. When the clock strikes 10 or 11 p.m., or later depending on what time the restaurant closes, chances are the people who've made your dinner have had nothing more than a few spoonfuls of food (to ensure proper seasoning) and perhaps a few bites of family meal. This brings us back to the original question, what do chefs eat?

To answer this question why don't we look to a chef, or even better the celebrity chef Bobby Flay? In the introduction to Burgers, Fries & Shakes, Flay writes that his all-time favorite meal is a cheeseburger with fries and a shake. He likes to eat simple things, and most of his favorite foods fall into the late-night cuisine category: pizza, tacos, sandwiches, and of course, burgers.

We all know Bobby Flay. He's a huge television star, a celebrity chef, and a restaurateur with places in New York, Las Vegas, Atlantic City, and the Bahamas. His most recent venture, Bobby's Burger Palace, is a chain of burger joints with locations in New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut. Bobby's Burger Palace is a realization of a long time dream, a place that doesn't just serve burgers but is all about them (and the fries and shakes, too.)

Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes lays out the basic guidelines for making the perfect burgers, shakes, and fries at home and expands on them. Everyday this week we will be sharing recipes with you for basics like Bobby's Perfect Burger and Perfect Fries along with variations on these classics, such as the Bolo Burger and Plantain Shoestring Fries.

Don't worry—we aren't going to leave out the shakes or condiments either. How about a Fresh Mint-Chocolate Speckled Milkshake or some Homemade Dill Pickles to go with your burger? —Caroline Russock

Win 'Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes'

Thanks to the good folks at Clarkson Potter, we are giving away five (5) copies of Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes this week. All you have to do is tell us about your all-time favorite burger in the comments section below.

Five (5) people will be chosen at random among the eligible comments below. We're sorry, but entry is only open to residents of the U.S. and Canada. Comments will close Monday, July 6 at noon ET. The standard Serious Eats contest rules apply.

Burger Eating Contest at Z-Burger This Thursday

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:30:00 -0500

Washington, D.C.-based chain Z-Burger is holding it's first Independence Burger Eating Championship this Thursday, July 2, at noon at its Tenleytown location. Although it's too late to register to compete, you can just watch the burger eating unfold and not wreak havoc on your digestive system. Whoever eats the most burgers in 10 minutes wins $1500, among other prizes.

Minneapolis Burger Flowchart

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 19:30:00 -0500

If you live around Minneapolis, Heavy Table has this flowchart to help you decided where to get a burger in the city and surrounding area.

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 18:30:00 -0500

Best Burger Spots in Victoria, British Columbia: The best burger according to Black Press is no match for Victoria Burger Blog's own personal picks. [Victoria Burger Blog]
Organic Burger Chain is Set to Expand: Elevation Burger, a North Virginia-based chain has signed a deal to open locations in over seven states led by the same company that helped Five Guys Burgers & Fries become such a success. [Chain Leader]
Decent Fast Food Burger in Santa Clara, Utah: Burger Bar, also known as Big Ben, has a decent burger, but go for the onion rings and lime rickys. [The Spectrum]
Another Effort at Conquering the Fifth Third Burger: Adam Richman, of the Travel Channel's "Man vs. Food" will attempt to finish the massive burger in an upcoming episode. All this for a free t-shirt. [wzzm13.com]

Grilled: Tommi Tomasson of Hamborgarabúllan

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 13:30:00 -0500

Note: This week we're grilling Tommi Tómasson, proprietor of Hamborgarabúllan in Reykjavik, Iceland. He fell in love with burgers as a teenager, a love that is still with him today at 60-years-old and shows no sign of abating.

Name: Tommi Tomasson
Location: Reykjavik, Iceland
Occupation: Owner, operator, and founder of Hamborgarabulla Tomasar ("Tommi's Hamburger Joint")

How often do you eat burgers? At least one every day for the past five years.

Where did you eat your most recent one? At my restaurant.

Cheese: American, cheddar, other? American and cheddar mix.

Ketchup or mustard? Ketchup, mustard, and mayonnaise.

Sesame-seed or plain? Plain.

Grilled, griddled, or broiled? Char-broiled.

And how would you like that done, sir? Medium to medium rare (depending on the quality of the beef).

Would you do us the favor of describing your perfect burger? 1/3-pound chuck/prime meat coarse grind, char-frilled medium rare with lettuce, tomato, red onion, and a small pickle with ketchup, Dijon mustard, and mayonnaise.

The hamburger is a food item with which most Americans have strong childhood associations. Do you remember your earliest encounter with this delicious dish? Yes; when I was 14-years-old. It was wonderful.

What's your favorite fast-food burger? In-N-Out.

What topping or condiment, in your opinion, should never grace a burger? Garlic.

What's the most unusual burger you've ever eaten? Reindeer burger.

What's the most overrated burger you've tried? Most underrated? Five Guys is the most overrated and the Hard Rock burger is the most underrated.

Burger Joint in San Francisco: An Airport Burger Almost Worth Missing Your Plane For

Fri, 26 Jun 2009 10:00:00 -0500

When I think about airport burgers, I don't think in terms of maximum deliciousness. Does anyone? Airports have a captive audience; they don't have to deliver delicious food, just something that will tide you over until you reach your next destination.

So imagine my surprise and delight when I ordered a medium rare cheeseburger at Burger Joint in San Francisco International Airport's food court in their International Terminal and a few minutes later received this, made to order, no less. Shocking, is it not? A juicy burger made with designer beef on a decent bun and properly melted cheese on top. I know the fries don't look bad, but they could have definitely used some improvement.

Although a burger like this can't make up for waiting hours sitting on plane on a tarmac waiting to take off, it does provide some small solace, nonetheless.

Burger Joint

San Francisco International Airport and multiple locations in San Francisco.

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

Thu, 25 Jun 2009 18:30:00 -0500

A Burger Chain Worthy of Praise: Blanc Burgers + Bottles serves delicious burgers at their two locations in Missouri. Don't leave without sampling the beer float. [Kansas City Star]
Try a Beefalo Burger in Clarksville, TN: Cheeseburger Charley's offers healthier burger options such as salmon, turkey, and most notably, beefalo. [The Leaf-Chronicle]
How a Local Burger Joint Manages to Persevere: Meister Burger in Kellogg, Ohio, struggles to survive the trials and travails of starting a restaurant. [Shoshone News Press]
No Service Staff, but Dozens of Free Toppings for Your Burger: In North Olmsted, Ohio, Brown Bag Burgers gives you the choice of free toppings amidst a no-frills atmosphere. [Cleveland.com]
Snag a Ride in the Burgermobile: Originating in New York City, the Burgermobile attracts attention everywhere it goes in Kansas City, Missouri. Driving tip: take extra care not to scrape the bun when parking. [Slashfood]