Slice

Pizza Girl: Future Technology

Sat, 13 Mar 2010 16:00:00 -0500

Every week, Pizza Girl (Diary of a Pizza Girl) stops by with insights and a behind-the-scenes look into the world of pizza-delivery drivers. Take it away, PG! —The Mgmt.

Domino's Triton No. 1, an experimental pizza-delivery vehicle, at the Pioneer Auto Show, a museum in Murdo, South Dakota. It's a future that never came to pass, as most pizza drivers use their own cars for delivery. [Photograph: Hugo90 on Flickr]

Once upon a time, long, long ago, there were no such things as a GPS. This was before the "delivery fee" was even a twinkle in the Noid's eye. Cellphones were built like bricks, and pizza delivery dudes were all dudes. And in this land of my pizza-delivery forbears, drivers carried maps made of trees but mostly carried maps in their heads.

Whenever one of the older drivers starts going on about maps and stopping in at convenience stores for directions I shudder. Not only do I have a terrible sense of direction (though being a delivery driver has improved it at least within my delivery area) but I have a smartphone. My phone is my best friend out on deliveries. I can look up directions (I won't get started on how Google Maps seems to have a fundamental misunderstanding of one-way streets and solid objects), find where I am, call the store, call the customer, Twitter my tips. Granted, that last one probably isn't essential to a good delivery, but it keeps me sane.

I have no idea what technological improvement is going to come in next and make delivery better. My chain is supposed to be moving to "smart routing" soon, which I'm not enthusiastic about. When I was in Podunk, there were plenty of places that were physically near each other but with a long drive between them due to the positioning of the roads, and I have my doubts about whether a computer can understand such a concept.

Here are some of my ideas (far-fetched or not) that would be cool to see in the future:

Augmented reality, where my windshield displays house numbers superimposed on houses. It could also integrate while I'm on the job to track my mileage, give turn-by-turn directions, gather traffic information from other drivers, tell me how old each delivery is.
A database that tracked a household's historical tipping amounts. Of course, there would have to be a super pain-free way to access it, as I'm far too busy (and sometimes too lazy) to try to access a website to either do data entry or to look up houses. Maybe it could integrate with my phone's map feature. I suppose there's also some privacy issues to consider.
A convenient way (maybe in my trunk) to integrate a machine that makes the pizza as I drive to the house so that it's straight out of the oven (and sliced and boxed) when I get there.

Any ideas for what's going to change pizza delivery in the future? Will we even need pizza delivery in the future?

From Serious Eats Talk: 'How Is Paulie Gee's Doing? Any Experiences?'

Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:35:28 -0500

Over on Serious Eats Talk, RJelli asks: "I live in Idaho, and would like to know how Paulie Gee is doing...I hope he is knocking them dead!"

If you've got intel, go drop a dime »

Comment of the Day: Hip Pizza Pundits

Sat, 13 Mar 2010 11:55:12 -0500

"Guys, guys—it's really cool right now to sound like you know a lot about pizza. This means that lots of people are going to try to sound like they know a lot about pizza. You probably should ignore them. At the end of the day, what you like is what you like, whether it's Luzzo or Papa John's. That said, good quality ingredients and a good measure of skill certainly can't be bad, no?" —djwackfriz

This Week's Tasty 10

Sat, 13 Mar 2010 08:00:00 -0500

From Serious Eats

According to our handy site-metering utility, the top 10 most delicious items across the Serious Eats family of sites this week were ...

1. How to Cook En Papillote
"After a week of cooking almost exclusively en papillote, I've found there's a lot to like about foods wrapped like little presents. Veggies, meat, fish, or whatever else you decide to stuff into the little package, comes out aromatic, tender, and flavorful— not at all the1980s-style health food you may be picturing."

2. The 5 Commandments of Sautéing Food
"When food is sautéed properly, it gets that golden, crispy crust and juicy, tender interior. But there's more to pulling it off than food-to-pan contact. Here are the five commandments of sautéing so that you can go forth against the evil that is gray, steamed food."

3. Dinner Tonight: Moroccan Ragout with Poached Eggs
"Those who are down with tomatoes and eggs might love this Moroccan-inspired twist on the classic Eggs in Purgatory. Not happy with a boring tomato sauce, the recipe amps up the flavor with merguez sausage, fire-roasted tomatoes, and a hit of complex spices."

4. Talk: You Might Be a Foodie If ...
"...you describe a night out at a show by beginning with what you ate beforehand.

"...your spouse's Christmas list for you can be completely filled at Williams-Sonoma.

"...you treat going to the supermarket as a field trip.

"...your reading list yields as many recipes as it does story lines.

"...you start navigating to a website where you might need to do banking, or studying, or some other pertinent task and your fingers just naturally type seriouseats.com."

5. The Food Lab: Slicing Meat Against the Grain
"Can you spot the difference between the two hanger steaks? They were both cooked to a perfect 130°F medium-rare in the same pan, both cut from the same piece of meat, and both sport a beautiful brown, crackly crust. Yet one of them is more tender than Otis Redding on a good day, while the other has more in common with a rubber band. What's the difference? It's all got to do with the angle at which it's sliced."

6. Scenes from a Pizzeria: Antonio Starita's One-Night-Only 'Secret Show' at Kesté
It was sort of like one of those secret rock shows where your favorite band comes to town and puts the word out via Facebook or Twitter that it's doing a one-night-only gig in an intimate setting. Only here, it was pizza. And the star was Antonio Starita, of Pizzeria Starita in Naples, Italy. Here, a beautiful photo set from his appearance at Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York City.

7. Sandwiched at the Whitney: Chefs, Lunch, Art, and You
"I was fascinated when I heard that Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group was going to open a sandwich joint in the Whitney Museum, featuring items designed by its chefs and pastry chefs. Why? Because it raised so many questions. First among them: Are chefs necessarily the best sandwich architects? We ate our way through the menu to find out."

8. Cakespy: Homemade Thin Mints
"Smug, smug little Girl Scouts. Those sweet-looking sugar-pushers can be found all over this time of year, lurking outside drugstores and markets with their addictive little missives of sweet cookies. Oh, they seem so friendly and accommodating now. But what happens in a month or so, when they're gone and you've got a serious jonesing for some Samoas or Thin Mints? You make your own, that's what you do."

9. Talk: Which Is Your Favorite/Least Favorite Culinary Herb?
"...in regard to the basic, fresh and readily available herbs (not lemon thyme or Thai basil), choose one favorite and one least favorite and explain why you chose these...."

10. Taste Test: Store-Bought Tofu
Not all tofu is created equal. Some tofu has a mild, sweet beany flavor and a smooth consistency, while other brands have flavor defects and strange textures. Our Seriously Meatless columnist Michael Natkin took one for the team and tried six brands of firm or extra firm tofu to help you out on your next grocery trip.

From Serious Eats Talk: 'Kesté — So What Did I Miss?'

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:35:52 -0500

Over on Serious Eats Talk, talent101 asks:

OK so after reading all the hype and hoopla surrounding Keste I gave it a try last week. Maybe it's my fault because everytime I read reviews before I go to a place that gets rants and raves I have been disappointed. I got the classic pie and while it was ok it was not great or even close to earth changing. The dough really threw me off and I cant exactly put my finger on it but was to doughy and seemed undercooked if you get what I mean.
I will try it again as everyone has an off night but my first impression of the place was ehhh it's ok. Little side note all three of us agreed which most of the time rarely ever happens, maybe I am over the artisinal pizza thing and just want my classic ny pie.

Head on over to discuss! »

UPDATE/CLARIFICATION: Portland, Oregon, Has Not Three But Four(!) Pizza Carts

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 10:50:17 -0500

Reaching in to the Slice mailbag, we've got ...

Give Pizza a Chance's menu board. It's more a "slice cart" than a "whole pie cart." Click it bigger for reference. [Photograph: I Dream of Pizza]

I sent your post to my pal from Portland (ppppp!) and he was surprised this one didn't make the list: givepizzaachance.com.
—Erin Zimmer

----------------------
Dear Erin,

Even though you are sitting not more than 10 feet from me here in the Slice–Serious Eats office, I have chosen to answer you publicly on the internetz. Why? Because I need to post something in my mid-morning slot on Slice today.

Hahahah. Just kiddin'. Actually, I'm posting so that Slice'rs will have a wider picture of the Portland pizza cart/truck/shack scene.

Yes. There is another cart. Give Pizza a Chance.

In the comments of the reblog I posted about Nick Zukin and Adam Lindsley's Portland pizza cart tour, Nick popped in and clarified why Give Pizza a Chance wasn't on their tour:

Give Pizza a Chance is primarily a slice joint. You go and order an already-baked sliced of pie. These other three all make pizzas to order only. Also, these three make 12" pizzas, whereas GPaC makes 16" pizzas. I'm not sure they work with the same sort of hot oven these others are working with. They even make calzones and Chicago pies, which I'm not sure you could make it an 800°F oven. And finally, they're only open at lunch, whereas these other three are dinner spots. So it's just a different animal. But when I worked downtown, it was on my regular rotation and despite the wheat crust ;-) is a darned good pizza.

I paraphrase Nick's explanation in terms fellow Big Applers can understand:

It's like, maybe, the difference between, say, Motorino and Artichoke Basille's*. The difference between "whole pies only" and "by the slice."

Of course, this all gets into the gray area of trying to classify pizza styles, etc. Most of the times it's clear cut, sometimes there's something that throws you for a loop the way a platypus would. This is probably one of those times, and I can see the logic in Zukin's methodology here.

Still, if I were to craft a post that was titled "Portland Cart Pizza," Give Pizza a Chance would have to be on it.

* If you don't like Artichoke Basille's and think it is overhyped and/or has gone downhill, substitute in this analogy your own highly regarded by-the-slice place that you think is a notch or three above the standard slice joint.

Naples 45: Skip the Neapolitan Pizza Here and Get Their New York–Style Slice Instead

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 09:00:00 -0500

"VPN accreditation aside, the regular New York slice is more authentic, truer to type and just plain tastier than the Neapolitan pies."

Naples 45

200 Park Avenue, New York NY 10166; map); 212-972-7001; website
Pizza Style: Neapolitan, VPN-certified
Oven Type: Wood-fired
The Skinny: This VPN-certified pizzeria fails to live up to the promise of the ingredients and oven, but there is an unexpected pleasure in the take-out section. Avoid the sit-down side of the restaurant and opt instead for the to-go slices
Price:Dine-in, Individual 10-inch pie, $16.95; take-away Neapolitan slice, $2.75; take-away NYC-style slice, $1.90
Notes: Pick-up and delivery available: 212-972-7000

Naples 45 is a sprawling, glittery restaurant located within the MetLife building that happens to be VPN-certified. Having eaten at the two other VPN-certified restaurants in New York (La Pizza Fresca [March 5, 2010] and Kesté [March 8, 2010]) just last week, I thought I should venture up to Midtown and see how Naples 45 stacked up.

The restaurant is not strictly a pizzeria; the menu offers a range of pastas and other Italian fare, and the place is certainly more upscale than your average pizzeria. It is staffed by hosts in suits and offers an extensive wine list. While the restaurant seems to attempt to create a casual mood, the place feels a bit stiff and a bit corporate. A fact not helped by the building's overzealous security guards, who will pounce on you for merely taking a picture of the restaurant exterior. That's never happened to me at a pizzeria before. Come to think of it, that's never happened to me at any sort of restaurant before.

Three ovens are used to pump pies for the restaurant as well as take out and delivery.

The Margherita DOC, surely the litmus test of a true Neapolitan pie, is the first thing on the the pizza menu and the last thing I would order here again. It is a pie with such potential—San Marzano tomatoes, hand-made fior de latte, Caputo flour, all cooked in a wood-burning oven, several factors involved in meeting VPN standards. Yet the resulting pizza is only spectacular in its mediocrity.

The cheese, a fior de latte, is completely dried out to the point of being pockmarked with black blisters—something I only want to see on the crust of a DOC pie; sadly the crust here was completely missing them.

The dough is dense and far too crisp. It has no resilience, no puffiness, no life. Unlike the cornicione of the best Neapolitan pizzas, which rise up like an inner tube of a bicycle tire and with almost as much air, the crust at Naples 45 is flat, barely rising above the cheese, and is crackerlike in consistency. I almost always finish the crust on Neapolitan pizza but this one was so dense that it was a chore to eat, the crust equivalent of a Monday morning. The center of the pie, which should require a knife and fork to consume, can easily be eaten by hand. I have seen more tip sag on New York street slices. Frankly, the dough feels overworked.

A sausage pie turned out to be much more palatable, though not because the foundation was any better. The sausage (despite being rather anemic and lacking succulence) was redolent with fennel.

I wonder what happened along the way that led to the pizza at Naples 45 devolving to its current state. Assuming, of course, that when they initially earned VPN certification they served a pie in keeping with what is served in Naples—a soft, liquid center surrounded by a soft, puffy cornicione. Perhaps the kitchen got sick of people complaining about the pies being undercooked and just started sending them all out well-done.

If so, it does raise a question about VPN certification: Are there any follow-up visits? And shouldn't part of the certification ensure that the restaurant educate its customers rather than cater to their whims? The mission of the VPN—a mission I wholeheartedly support—is to preserve a particular way of doing things rather than merely sanctioning ingredients and equipment.

Or perhaps the problem is that two different sizes of pizzas are served and that the ovens seem to be rather crowded—even though there are three of them. The restaurant is large and bustling; I bet they sell more pizza in a day than most VPN pizzerias sell in a week. And they even have a take-out and delivery section in the restaurant that sells pies by the slice. Here you can see the "Mezzo metro" sized pies—elongated, almost rectangular pies. They are no better than the personal-sized pies, although the crust is dense and laden with more toppings.

What's Worth Eating at Naples 45

And yet, among all this dysfunction, all these missed marks, there is a glimmer of hope for the pizza aficionado at Naples 45. Tucked away off to the side sits the unassuming selection of "New York–style" pizza. Classically constructed with the sweet sauce that is used on the other pies and with low-moisture mozzarella (the sort of cheese that can happily spend a lot of time in the oven without losing vitality), a plain slice only cost $1.90, and it is marvelous.

My fist bite was instantly familiar. The sweetness of the sauce; the soft, pliant crust (tender and yielding, yet with some snap and crunch); the milky cheese—all reminded me of Patsy's in East Harlem. Admittedly there was a little too much cheese on the slice, and it didn't have the sooty dusting and corresponding acridity of Patsy's, but it was close. The wood-fired oven did a good job on the crust, which seems to work better here than in anything else I tried.

It is ironic that the most unassuming and the cheapest offering at Naples 45 is also the easiest to recommend. Especially because it seems like a mere afterthought. The VPN accreditation aside, the regular New York slice is more authentic, truer to type and just plain tastier than the Neapolitan pies. which are just disappointing.

I Am Picturing Pizzablogger's Workplace, and It Looks Like This

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 15:20:41 -0500

I just read this in the comments, and it makes even me scratch my head and then visualize a scene similar to what I just Photoshopped above:

... Lemons and blood oranges are in season. Think I'll try the lemon pizza and also a blood orange pizza tonight. The dough sitting next to me at work says it'll look flashy wearing bright citrus colors, so who am I to argue?

Pizzablogger, why do you have dough AT WORK? You have truly taken pizza madness to the next level. (And do your coworkers know what you've got hiding under your desk?) LOL.

Only in New York*: Get Papa John's By-the-Slice, 99¢

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:30:00 -0500

[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

With the prevalent pizza culture in New York City favoring pizza by the slice, even major chains have to adapt. I've known for a while that Papa John's has offered single slices for 99¢, but it wasn't until the other day that I noticed the PJ's near the Slice–Serious Eats office was in on it, too. I stopped by the get some pics.

Um, 99 cents is a bit of a misnomer. Tax ain't included. So the 99-cent slice is actually $1.08. (Apparently you can still get the heart-shape pizza at this location.)

Slice pies are kept in a small, heated rotating platter cabinet. When I visited, it seemed like a lot of students from nearby FIT were taking advantage of the deal. Which meant turnover was fast and that the slices didn't suffer too much from sitting.

And there's what the underside looks like. Cooked on a screen, run through an impinger oven.

* Only in New York, as far as I know. I've never seen it done anywhere else.

Pizzeria Names All Menu Items After Ryan Adams Songs

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:30:00 -0500

Sticks and Stones Clay Oven Pizza in Greensboro, North Carolina, has gone and named all its menu items for songs by Ryan Adams. Pizzas include A Kiss Before I Go (tomato sauce, fried eggplant, wild mushrooms, mozzarella, carmelized garlic, fresh basil, Parmesan); New York, New York (tomato sauce, Giacomo's soppressata, arugula, fresh mozzarella,
pine nuts, fresh basil, Parmesan), and To Be the One (pizza Margherita), among others.

Sticks & Stones Clay Oven Pizza

2200 Walker Avenue, Greensboro NC 27403
336-275-0220; sticksandstonesclayoven.com

photosofpizzaboxes.com

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 20:00:00 -0500

Photos of Pizza Boxes is a blog whose title is pretty self-explanatory.

NYC Wine & Food Fest Planning a Blow-Out Pizza Party Event for 2010?

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:25:23 -0500

An interesting tweet from Lee Schrager, the man behind the NYC Wine & Food Festival:

@Lee_Schrager: "what are your fav pizza places in NY? we are lining them up now for Pizza Party at #NYCWFF this October..wouldnt Rocco be a great host?"

Very intriguing. If you're familiar with the Wine & Food Festival (sort of a South by Southwest of food), this should bring to mind such hot-ticket NYCWFF events as the annual Rachael Ray Burger Bash (which also takes place at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival) and last year's Meatball Madness party. While there are hundreds of sessions to choose from during the WFF weekend in October (seminars, tastings, lectures), these mega-events that bring together various heavy-hitter chefs and restaurants from the area (and beyond) are the ones that sort of anchor the weekend. (Burger Bash and Meatball Madness served as bookends last in 2009.)

Given that A) Slice–Serious Eats has hosted two very well-received pizza seminars* as part of the Wine & Food Festival (The Pieman's Craft 2008 and 2009) and that B) pizza is among NYC's iconic foods (if not the most iconic), and that C) there's been an pizza explosion in the last several years, we're not surprised that Schrager and company would consider going all out with a pizza-themed anchor event this year.

Which brings me to this question for you, Slice'rs: What pizzerias would you advise Schrager to bring into the mix? Answer here, and we'll try to zap over the collective wisdom to the Big Cheese himself. [via @Lock]

* I seem to recall reading somewhere that someone described our Pieman's Craft event as sort of a sleeper hit, but now I can't find that reference online anywhere. Still, the feedback we received on our two events was overwhelmingly positive. Trust me!

From Serious Eats Talk: 'When Should I Apply Lemon Juice to My Pizza Bianca?'

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:29:39 -0500

Over on Serious Eats Talk, msinche asks:

Hello! My favorite pizza at the moment is a pizza bianco made at a pizza place in my neighborhood. I am going to try to re-create it tonight but need some help. The ingredients are:
whole wheat crust
olive oil
mozzarella
spinach
fresh garlic
cracked black pepper
and the one I have a question about—lemon juice
So my question is: If I put the toppings on in the order above, when should I use the lemon juice? Before or after baking? You can taste it for sure on the restaurant's version, so my guess is afterward. Your thoughts?

Head on over to the thread to help! »

Doctors Propose 18% 'Pizza Tax' to Fight Obesity, Offset Health-Care Costs

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 16:30:00 -0500

If such a plan were enacted, a $2.75 slice in NYC, for instance, would jump 50¢ to $3.25.

Science Daily recently reported that researchers have recommended the use of surcharges (taxes and fees) on unhealthy food items like pizza and soda to help offset the nearly $150 billion a year the U.S. government spends on health care issues related to obesity.

Doctors Mitchell H. Katz and Rajiv Bhatia published an article titled "Food Surcharges and Subsidies: Putting Your Money Where Your Mouth Is" on Monday in the Archives of Internal Medicine. The two suggest that raising the cost of or specially taxing food items that are high in saturated fats and sugar will have consumers thinking twice before making unhealthy meal choices. Their recommendation is an 18% tax on such items.

On a $2.75 slice (an average price point for slices in NYC), that would translate to a 50¢ surcharge. On a large pepperoni pizza from Domino's ($13.05), that's an extra $2.35.

This tax would be similar to the cigarette tax that some states have in place in an attempt to reduce smoking. For example, New York State places a tax of $2.75 on a pack of smokes, whereas homes of Big Tobacco charges far less. Virginia only taxes 30¢ a pack; South Carolina, 7¢. I wonder if pizza-producing states like New York would similarly tax less for pies if some such bill goes through.

But the bigger question is whether states should tax "unhealthy" foods to reduce obesity-related medical expenses or just mind their own beeswax. Shouldn't it be up to individuals to decide how they want to consume their ideal (or even not-so-ideal) daily caloric intake? And what about the inclusion of pizza in public school and other government institutions' cafeterias?

Should pizza be generalized as an "unhealthy food" when there are endless possibilities and variations?

We want to read your thoughts on this. What do you think?

Photo of Pulino's Pizza on 'ZagatBuzz'

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 15:55:16 -0500

ZagatBuzz manages to get a photo of a pizza from Nate Appleman's upcoming Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria. Of course you can't judge a book by its cover, and the photo from a Zagat reader is a little blurry, but the pie looks fairly interesting. If you recall, Appleman told Slice that he was going for a unique style of pizza. Pulino's will open Monday.

Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria

282 Bowery, New York NY 10012 (at Houston; map)

Video: Sushi Pizza at Edo Sushi in New York

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 12:30:00 -0500

From Serious Eats

Take a lightly toasted rice patty, top it with spicy mayo, chopped maguro (tuna), green onion, and tobiko (fish eggs), and voilà: you've got sushi pizza (er, "pizza"). The crew of a Japanese TV show that features wacky "Japanese" food served at Japanese restaurants in America visits Edo Sushi in Hyde Park, New York, to try the restaurant's sushi pizza. Although the hosts initially seem skeptical of the nontraditional dish, they end up liking it. Watch the video after the jump.

Sushi Pizza at Edo Sushi in New York

[via Japan Probe]

Video: Japanese Giga Pudding Commercial
Video: Watermelon Half-Pipe Performance Art on a Japanese Game Show
Video: Brad Pitt and Quentin Tarantino on Japanese Cooking Show
Video: Japanese Cheese Curry Cup of Noodles Commercial

Three Floyd's Brewpub: Top Notch Beer, Good Enough Pizza

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:45:00 -0500

Slice–Serious Eats Chicago contributor Daniel Zemans (Chicago Pizza Club) checks in with another piece of intel on the Windy City pizza scene. —The Mgmt.

[Photographs: Daniel Zemans]

Three Floyd's Brewpub

9570 Indiana Parkway, Munster IN 46321 (map); 219-922-4425; threefloydspub.com
Pizza Style: Thin-crust
Oven Type: Gas
The Skinny: Not worth the drive from Chicago just for the pies, but for a bar this is pizza well done
Price: 14-inch pizzas, $11 to $16

I have yet to meet a serious beer drinker in Chicago who does not love beer from 3 Floyd's, the Munster, Indiana–based brewery that's been pleasing discerning Midwestern palates since 1996. The company has undergone a few expansions in the dozen years it's been open, but demand is so high around here that widespread national distribution is still a ways away. In the meantime, if you are in the area or have a particularly good friend who is, Dark Lord Day is April 24, and if you want a golden ticket, you need to start following 3 Floyd's on Twitter now.

At the brewery sits Three Floyd's Brewpub, which I was introduced to at Chicago Gourmet last fall. There, when most of Chicago's best restaurants were offering samples of food, the jagerwurst with house-made mustard and braised red cabbage put out by Three Floyd's Brewpub was one of a handful of places I went back to for seconds. With those outstanding bites in mind, I went to Three Floyd's on my recent tour of Munster that also included John's Pizzeria and Schoop's for burgers.

I noticed a couple of things while perusing the menu. First, the restaurant has a wider variety of food than the kind of place where you typically find good pizzas. Second, while they have a build-your-own option, the specialty pies showed an impressive degree of creativity. I ended up going for one of the less ambitious pies, pepperoni and pickled jalapeños.

The crust is not made in-house, which shouldn't be too surprising in a restaurant that is far from being a pizzeria. But as Nick Kindelsperger has taught us, even a terrible crust can be somewhat saved by a hot oven, and Three Floyd's cooks its pies at 700°F. That's not to say the prefabricated pie was great—it was a bit too crisp—but it was not bad at all.

Both of the toppings were very good. I'm normally not a fan of pepperoni, but I correctly assumed that these guys weren't going to put out the salt lick that passes for meat at most places. This thin-sliced, oven-crisped pepperoni reminded me what pepperoni should taste like. The pickled jalapenos were also quite good, but the chef was surprisingly stingy with them. Jalapenos are not an expensive ingredient and if someone orders them on a pizza, I think the person making them can safely assume his customer is expecting some heat on their pie. That said, the bites that had both pepperoni and jalapeno in them had a great spicy, chewy, tangy flavor combination. Unfortunately, those bites were few and far between and the rest of the pizza was pretty ordinary, although still good for a bar.

Bottom line: If you are a fan of beer and are anywhere near Munster, you owe it to yourself to check out Three Floyd's. And if you want to eat while you're there, for pizza at a bar you can do a whole lot worse.

John's Pizzeria: Former Chicago Standout Lives On In Indiana

Kesté Now Serving Gluten-Free Pizza on Monday and Tuesday Nights

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 15:45:00 -0500

[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

From an email from Kesté Pizza & Vino:

Starting [Monday, March 8] we will be serving gluten-free pizza. We will only serve it on Monday and Tuesday evenings. We will start with our Marinara, Mast'Nicola, and Margherita pies for now.
We are using gluten-free Caputo flour.
We're using a different oven to bake the pizza and a different workstation so as to avoid any kind of contamination with regular flour, as we will be serving both regular and gluten-free pizzas at the same time.

Kesté Pizza & Vino

271 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10014 (b/n Jones and Cornelia streets; map)
212-243-1500; kestepizzeria.com

@slice on Twitter

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 15:40:00 -0500

If you're a twitizen and are looking for crusty, saucy, cheesiness throughout your day, you could do worse than follow @slice on Twitter. Carry on.

Paulie Gee's Opening Tonight in Greenpoint

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 14:10:00 -0500

A reminder, in case you don't already know: Paulie Gee's is opening tonight at 6 p.m. We were able to go to a friends and family night on Saturday at the new Greenpoint wood-oven pizzeria, and our man J. Kenji Lopez-Alt snapped some photos. They're in the gallery above, if you should feel like previewing what you might find tonight.

~~No word yet on what the opening-night menu might be. When contacted for comment, Mr. Giannone said, "Not yet. I'm up to my ass in alligators."~~

Update: We now have the menu. It appears after the jump.

Paulie Gee's

60 Greenpoint Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11222 (Franklin/West streets; map)

The Menu

Salads, $7

Seasonal greens
Baby arugula with olive oil, fresh lemon juice, and shaved Parmagiano-Reggiano
Orange slices, sliced red onion, and marsala vinegarette

Pizza

Regina: fior di latte, Italian tomatoes, Pecorino Romano, fresh basil; $12
King Harry: fior di latte, Italian tomatoes, prosciutto di Parma, Pecorino Romano, fresh basil; $15
The Mootz: fior di latte, chopped fresh garlic, Percorino Romano, sea salt; $13
Delboy: fior di latte, Italian tomatoes, soppressata picante, Parmigiano-Reggiano; $14
Marianna: Italian tomatoes, chopped fresh garlic, Pecorino Romano, sea salt; $10
Spectacle: fior di latte, speck, sliced red onion, Pecorino Romano; $15
Greenpointer: fior di Latte, baby arugula, olive oil, fresh lemon juice, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano; $14
Parma D'or: fior di latte, baby arugula, olive oil, fresh lemon juice, prosciutto di Parma, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano; $16
The Arugula Shmoogala: Italian tomatoes, baby arugula, olive oil, sea salt, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano; $13 (On Saturday night, this pie was on the specials chalkboard as "The Alexi," which I believe may be named after Mr. Giannone's assistant pizzaiolo, Alex)

Beverages

Wines, local craft beers on tap, and bottled specialty beers (beer and wine license pending; coming soon)
Soft drinks, etc., $2
Dr. Brown's, $2
Manhattan Special, $2
Coke & Diet Coke, $2
Canada Dry Ginger Ale, $2

Desserts

Nutella and sliced Bosc pears, $7
Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice cream, $5

Seasonal and local specials offered daily

Portland, Oregon, Has Not One But Three(!) Artisanal Pizza Carts

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 09:40:00 -0500

[Clockwise from top right: Pizza Depokos; ExtraMSG.com (2)]

What is it about Portland, Oregon?!? The place has not one, not two, but three (THREE!) artisanal pizza carts. Pizza CARTS, mind you — not pizzerias.

I'm not super in love with the word artisanal, but I'm using it here as shorthand for the type of pizza made that employs an "...oven running at 800 degrees slinging out freshly made pizzas with ingredients like fresh mozz and doughs allowed to ferment for 24 hours," as Nick Zukin writes in his Portland pizza cart roundup on his blog, ExtraMSG.com.

Yeah. Did I say that this was coming from CARTS? I did? Good. Zukin did this pizza cart crawl with Adam Lindsley of This Is Pizza. The pair hit newcomer Pizza Depokos (more a shack than a cart), Pyro Pizza, and Wy'east. (You can read Lindsley's take on Pizza Depokos here.)

In case you did not know from one of the other 473 times I've mentioned it here, I lived briefly in Oregon/Portland (1997–2000), and the pizza scene at that time was just nothing. NOTHING, I say. As Zukin writes:

As Adam and I would say over and over on this crawl: five years ago, [Wy'east] would be the best pizza in Portland. That's no dig. Pizza in Portland has come a long ways since Apizza Scholls opened on Hawthorne in 2005. There's an excellent pizzeria in nearly every part of Portland now (if only someone would push out to the suburbs, they'd make a killing). These pizza carts are only adding to Portland's status as the hub of resurgent pizza culture west of the Hudson.

Pizza Depokos: North Greeley & Killingsworth (Refuel North Station Food Pod; map); 503-247-7499; pizzadepokos.blogspot.com

Pyro Pizza: SE 12th & Hawthorne (map); 503-929-1404; pyropizzacart.com

Wy'east Pizza: 3131 SE 50th Avenue, Portland OR 97206 (SE Tibbets/Kelly, parking lot of Ruthie's Weaving Studio; map); 503-701-5149; wyeastpizza.com

UPDATE/CLARIFICATION: Portland has four pizza carts »

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Dear Slice: You Have Not Tasted the Best »
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The Bronx: Patricia's of Morris Park

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 18:30:00 -0500

[Photographs: Adam Kuban]

Patricia's of Morris Park

1080 Morris Park Avenue, Bronx NY 10461 (Williamsbridge/Lurting aves; map); 718-409-9069 or 718-792-1704; patriciasmorrispark.com
Getting there: Nearest train is the 5 at Morris Park Station; get out and walk south-southeast down Paulding to Morris Park Ave.; bang a right and walk a couple blocks more to Lurting Ave.
Pizza style: Neapolitan-inspired
Oven type: For now, wood-fired or gas-fired
The skinny: Very good Neapolitan/New York–Neapolitan hybrid that leans closer to Neapolitan. It's like a supersized Naples-style pie. Changing locations soon
Price: Absolute steal at $13 for "regular" size plain pie; the "regular" is any other place's "large"

It's been a shamefully long time since Slice has gotten its crust on in the Bronx. And an even longer time since this site hit up Patricia's of Morris Park, one of our favorite pizzerias in the northernmost borough of this great city.

I had originally planned to do a Morris Park mini pizza crawl*, that would have included Patricia's and some other places in the neighborhood. But then I saw something intriguing going on at Patricia's — it's building out the space next door and will move there within a month. Once I saw the new awning and signage next door, I put my plans for a crawl on hold. But more on the new space later.

Patricia's of Morris Park serves some fine Neapolitan-inspired pizza. The crust is flavorful, tender and crisp (made with Caputo "00" flour). One of the more tender-crisp crusts I've had in this city. The sauce is a simple, fresh mixture of canned San Marzanos from Italy, and the cheese is fresh mozzarella from Aiello Brothers in Brooklyn.

One thing to know about Patricia's before you go — at least until they move next door — is that they offer pizza cooked either in a gas oven or from their wood-burning oven. Why you would go for the gas-oven pizza is beyond me.

But, as Patricia's owner Alex Borgognone says, almost no one orders from the gas oven. (As an aside, one thing that Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza Tours does when he leads people through Patricia's is order a pie from the gas oven and one from the wood-fired brick oven so that tour patrons can see and taste the difference.)

This pizza is the one you see coming out of the oven above. This was owner Alex Borgognone's lunch. It's interesting to note that he likes it with a little less cheese than what customers get.

Another thing to note is that the pizza here is sort of a hybrid between Neapolitan style and New York–style. I suppose you could classify it as Neapolitan American–style — sort of like the coal-oven guys, Totonno's, Grimaldi's, Patsy's, etc., but closer to the Neapolitan end of things.

That is, the pizzas are very minimalist and strike a good balance of crust, sauce, and cheese (as Neapolitan pizzas are and do) but the pies are much bigger and thinner than any Neapolitan-style pizza I've had. And, bowing more to American tastes, the crust is crisper than many Neapolitan pies. Yet, as I say above, exceedingly tender.

About sizing at Patricia's: You'll find "personal," "regular," and "large" on the menu. Above is the "regular," which would probably be a "large" anywhere else. The "large," the waitress there on Wednesday said, "overhangs this pan by an inch or so." Still, a big eater could make a dent in a "regular," since it's so thin.

(And a final thing to note about Patricia's of Morris Park — it is now the only Patricia's going. At one point, there were two affiliated pizzerias, Patricia's II and Patricia's III. The original Patricia's broke off affiliation with them about two years ago and those locations must now change their names.)

Patricia's New Space

In about a month, Borgognone says, Patricia's will be operating out of its new space, which is night and day from its current digs. The Patricia's of today is humble and very much says "Hey, I'm just a nice, friendly neighborhood pizzeria." You can tell it's more than just a corner to-go slice joint — it's got white tablecloths and sit-down service, but the space looks like it was last updated in the early '90s. That's not meant to be disrespectful, it's just an observation. And, chances are, Borgognone and the crew at Patricia's knows it's a bit dated. Which is why they've gone all out on the new space.

Which is pretty slick. Marble floors and a granite bar top. Rustic, exposed-brick walls and a sort of solid Tuscan villa vibe. The place looks solid, airy, and inviting. There's a large wine cellar going into the basement level (bottles will be from $20 to $45, Borgognone says). You can imagine what it might look like from the construction shots above.

But perhaps the thing that pizza nerds will appreciate is the new, larger wood-fired pizza oven, which had just been finished days before I visited. It takes pride of place behind the glass wall of the kitchen, on view for all in the rear dining room to see.

Unfortunately for Wiener and his pizza tour, the new Patricia's will be doing away with the gas oven, so the tour won't have an opportunity to test both side by side. (Note to Alex: It's not too late to consider making room for the gas oven!)

Slice will check back in after the opening. And perhaps then we'll explore the other places in the neighborhood that need exploring. Until then, we're happy with the fare at Patricia's.

* See, not too long ago on Midtown Lunch, a commenter there, Spydr331, ripped Slice a new one regarding our nonexistent Bronx coverage:

and i dont respect slice as a representation of pizza in ny... they only rated one other area near me, patricias, which is a brick oven place, but they didnt even bother venturing further into the italian neighborhood just blocks away from both places where there are 5 pizza places within 7 blocks of eachother at the time... now its up to like 9 with 2 brick over pizza places... if they ignore my pizza places, i ignore them

Fair enough. Though I'm afraid I failed Spydr331 once again, in that I visited Morris Park with every intention of venturing farther into the neighborhood for the places he talks about but then got hung up at Patricia's. If anyone from Morris Park is reading, I would certainly welcome Morris Park pizza recs for next time I'm out there. Pizza Captain? (LOVE that name, btw.) Emilio's? Gimme the skinny, Bronxers! [back to top]

Openings: Eddie's of New Hyde Park Bringing Its Bar Pizza to the Streets of Midtown/Financial District

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 16:15:20 -0500

Rejoice, Long Island expats and Long Islanders who commute into NYC for work: Eddie's of New Hyde Park is bringing its renowned bar pizza to Manhattan. In May, Eddie's will dispatch a pizza truck to rumble along the city's not-so-mean streets.

How do we know this? Twitter, of course.

As Ed Levine wrote about Eddie's in Pizza: A Slice of Heaven:

I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked Eddie's pizza, which features a crust not much thicker than one of those pieces of cardboard sandwiched inside my laundered shirts. Though the crust is cracker-thin, it's surprisingly pliant. You can fold a slice of Eddie's pizza. Through five owners and seven decades, Eddie's has been pleasing Nassau County residents determined to save the bulk of the room in their stomachs for beer, not pizza.

~~Slice has contacted Eddie's for comment on location, hours, and offerings. Will update you when we find out more.~~ Update: We just heard back from Eddie's with additional intel. Find it after the jump.

Update

We have found out more. Here's the skinny, according to Derek Kaye of Eddie's :

They're shooting for a late May opening (around Memorial Day)
Location: "We plan on changing our spots but we are looking to settle into a routine of Midtown M/W/F and Wall Street T/Th"
Pizzas will be made on the truck. "The crusts will be par-baked at Eddie's commissary, like they are for the restaurant," Kaye says, "and everything will be done on the truck. We are putting four Cecilware ovens in
The pizza in the truck will be the same as at Eddie's. "We have already started breaking in the pizza stones to get that taste to be as similar as possible"
No slices, only pies. "We will do our 10-inch bar pies in regular/whole Wheat, as well as a 16-inch large pie
Toppings: Pepperoni, meatball, sausage, mushroom, as well as a few other staples. Watch @eddiespizzany on Twitter for daily specials ("eggplant ricotta, clams casino, broccoli cheddar bacon, and chicken cutlet w/garlic pies, to name a few")
Other menu items: antipasto salad, sweet potato gnocchi, zucchini sticks

Comment of the Day: It's Like Toast

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:00:00 -0500

A spectrum of crust doneness. [Photographs: Adam Kuban]

"It's exactly like toast. You take it too far and you can't eat it and it smells burnt, not enough and it's not properly toasted and lacking that signature toasted taste and aroma. And, of course, people like every shade in between." —kenito

Scenes from a Pizzeria: Antonio Starita's One-Night-Only 'Secret Show' at Kesté

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 09:45:00 -0500

It was late in the day on Friday when Slice learned that Antonio Starita of Naples's Pizzeria Starita would be in town making pizzas at Kesté Pizza & Vino for one night only.

Starita is an instructor at the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, the Naples-based governing body that both teaches pizza-making and certifies pizza-makers as adhering to authentic Neapolitan ways.

Why Kesté? Among Starita's protegés is Kesté's Roberto Caporuscio, who now works as head pizzaiolo at Kesté and who teaches and certifies aspiring pizza-makers on this side of the Atlantic for the APN.

Starita was on his way back to Naples from the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas and decided at the last minute to work the dough alongside Caporuscio in a sort of one-night-only pizza supergroup secret show. Here are photos from the evening.

Poll: Do You Like 'Charred' Pizza?

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 08:15:00 -0500

A Margherita from Ken's Artisan Pizza in Portland, Oregon: "charred" or "burned"? [Photograph: Adam Kuban]

This week's poll is dedicated to avid home-pizza-maker dmcavanagh, who often comments about the fine line between "charred" and "burned."

A Margherita from Pizza Brutta in Madison, Wisconsin: just right? [Photograph: Guil Barros]

When I first started eating pizza from coal- and wood-oven joints around NYC and made my first forays onto the various food boards discussing pizza (this was around 10 years ago), I noticed that "char" was something pizza hounds desired. Pies coming from intensely hot ovens seemed to be considered failures unless they had just the right splotchwork of flaky, black, carbonized crust.

The idea seems to be that A) charring gives the pizza a just-so smoky flavor and that B) the absence of charring indicates that the oven may not be at the high temperatures needed to produce a "proper" coal- or wood-cooked pizza.

I'll be the first to admit that I've used somewhat ridiculous language in the past: "artfully charred" comes to mind. :-S

A pie from Di Fara in Brooklyn: Oh, this one is *definitely* burned! [Photograph: Adam Kuban]

But not everyone likes the black splotches. Dmcavanagh, for instance, says:

Charred vs. burnt is an interesting argument in pizza circles. Here's my thought, do you put a pizza in the oven and hope to pull it out with a black crust? I don't think so, I know that's not my intention when I make a pizza. I think the "charred" concept is just a convenient excuse for "whoops, I left it in a little to long, don't want it to go to waste, let's called it "charred".

And I've talked to pizza-makers such as Lawrence Ciminieri of Totonno's, who says that people visiting the original Coney Island, Brooklyn, location seem to tolerate and even expect the "char," while folks who visit the Manhattan branches often complain that the pizza is "burned" and that he has his pizza-makers there ease back on the cooking time to yield golden-brown crusts instead.

And the Texas branches of Brooklyn-based Grimaldi's seem to have learned the hard way that Lone Star Staters send back "charred"/"burned" pizzas. Texas food writer Robb Walsh even noted this and wrote about it here.

All this to get to the poll:

This Week's Poll Results: We Like White Pies

Sun, 07 Mar 2010 12:00:05 -0500

On Monday morning the question was whether you liked white pies. Seeing as how I rarely see them flying out of the oven whenever I'm at a pizzeria, I didn't expect this style of pizza to do so well. But, check it out: 60% of Slice'rs dig the white pies And if you add the 28% of people who think that white pies have their occasion, you've got 88% of people who either strongly favor or simply like white pies. Basically, only 11 percent of us never did white pies. Pretty strong consensus.

Madison, Wisconsin: Pizza Brutta [field report]

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 12:00:00 -0500

Here's another piece of community-submitted intel from the field from Guil Barros. Thanks, Guil! And remember, if YOU want to submit your review, here's how. —The Mgmt.

[Photographs: Guil Barros]

Pizza Brutta

1805 Monroe Street, Madison WI 53711 (map); 608-257-2120; pizzabrutta.com
Pizza style: Neapolitan
Oven type: Wood-fired
Notes: Possibly the only Neapolitan pizza in Madison?
Price: $7 for 12-inch Margherita

Walking into Pizza Brutta is like waking up to that wonderful day in Livorno, sitting on plastic chairs at the beach... but with nice wooden benches :) The oven and large marble prep slab are front and center, the staff is engaging, and the smell... oh, the smell. Goose bumps from just imagining it. There is something about the smell of basil crisping in a bed of tomato sauce that brings tears to my eyes. But I digress :)

The crust is supple but forgiving, there is just enough chewiness to make it an integral part of the slice without overwhelming the texture of the tomato sauce and cheese. Beautiful cornicione surrounds a San Marzano base, lightly salted with spots of fresh mozzarella and large basil leaves.

The crust cant quite hold up the slice, but this is a good thing, no need to thicken up just for structural integrity. The base Margherita is my favorite, but the menu shows so many excellent options, it's worth spending a night and trying a few. At $7, it can't be beat. —Guil Barros

Want to see your favorite pizzeria on Slice? Here's how you can submit a review!

Pizza Girl: Scary Delivery Situations

Fri, 05 Mar 2010 18:30:00 -0500

Every week, Pizza Girl (Diary of a Pizza Girl) stops by with insights and a behind-the-scenes look into the world of pizza-delivery drivers. Take it away, PG! —AK

I am lucky enough to never have been involved in a robbery, but I'm acutely aware of the vulnerable position I put myself in every time I go to a stranger's house.

Not only am I guaranteed to have cash and food, but I have very little way of knowing if I'm getting into a bad situation beforehand (most robberies are setups), and even when I get there it's a tough trade-off between safety and time (when I'm out on four deliveries, every minute I spend doing something other than driving or transacting on the earlier deliveries makes that last delivery more and more likely to be late).

Do I go up to the house that has a car in the street but no lights on? (Or do I call them and make them turn a light on to prove someone's home?)
Do I approach the man sitting on the porch? (Or do I call to make sure that I'm at the right house and ask him to go inside to prove he belongs there?)
Do I go through the shrubs that cut off my view of my car? (Or do I call and ask them to come pick up their pizza in the driveway?)
If it's cold and rainy, do I step inside the door? (Or do I politely decline and continue freezing my butt off and soaking their entryway?)

The easy answer is no (and with the last one it is the ONLY answer), nothing is worth giving up my safety, but at the same time I wouldn't have a job if I was afraid to go to strangers' houses.

Every time I run up against a situation I'm uncomfortable in, I ask myself, "What if they don't answer the phone? Is the situation bad enough to warrant calling my manager to refuse the delivery? Is it bad enough that he'll be OK with giving those people free pizza when they call back mad that the pizza never got there?"

I've only felt truly in danger three times:

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The first, I was delivering to a mobile home out in the country and a man was standing in the driveway smoking a cigarette. He followed me up to the door and stood on the stairway while I completed the transaction with a woman at the door. I had my pepper spray ready underneath the hot-bag because I do not like being penned in. Chances are that he didn't even realize he was penning me in, but I was still running through escape scenarios in my head.
The second was when I walked into a domestic dispute. It sounded like it was going to get violent. Through the door, even before I rang the doorbell, I heard a man yell, "I'm going to f*@!$% kill you!" to the woman. I hightailed it back to my car and called the police. All I could think was, "What if I got the order wrong or don't have exact change? What if he has a gun out?" My manager actually scolded me for this incident, which horrified me. He was upset that we probably lost a customer. I was upset that I could have lost my life (and so could the woman in the house, though it turned out once the cops got there to be a non-physically-violent situation).
The third, I was delivering to a quiet house in a typical suburban neighborhood. A man answered the door and seemed a little off; right at the beginning he invited me inside, though it was a nice day out. I politely declined and proceeded to tell him his total. He pointed at the dining room table that was maybe four or five feet inside the door where he had set the money. I quoted the rule about not being allowed by my employer to go inside a customer's home, and only after a minute did he retrieve the money. Something about this situation is the most disturbing to me. I can just imagine someone less paranoid stepping inside and never coming back out. It doesn't fall into one of the categories where the lack of cars/lights/openness creates potential hazards.

I know that these stories are mild compared to many that are out there (besides searching the news I follow two other bloggers who have foiled robbery (or scam) attempts: Kevin over at Pizza Delivery Stories and one over at Memoirs of a Pizza Delivery Guy), but I know that my only chances of staying safe are to stay vigilant and to wonder how each delivery could be a setup and being prepared for that situation.

Tonight at Kesté: Naples Pizza-Maker Antonio Starita Appears for One Night Only

Fri, 05 Mar 2010 16:52:54 -0500

Pizzeria Starita, in Naples, Italy. [Photograph: Gianluca Rottura]

Just got an interesting email from the folks at Kesté:

Tonight we will have an interesting surprise at Kesté. Antonio Starita, owner of the famous Pizzeria Starita in Napoli (and [Kesté pizzaiolo] Roberto Caporuscio's mentor) will be at Kesté for one night only working side by side with Roberto.

Kesté Pizza & Vino

271 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10014 (b/n Jones and Cornelia streets; map)
212-243-1500; kestepizzeria.com

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