The city hides its secrets pretty well. To the unschooled eye, Berlin might be explored in a very quick fashion with nothing much that lies beneath the surface. But there are so many perspectives to challenge and even more fences to climb, we’re just getting lazier, thinking this and that is all there is. It’s not. There’s more, although usually forgotten and easily dismissed.

Climbing into a long abandoned construction site, for instance, is one of those experiences that lets you explore Berlin from the bottom. We took those pictures long ago, on a cold and muddy day, but it was sure worth it. We were certainly not the first ones to be there — the hieroglyphs and pictures left on the walls tell the stories of so many people who’ve already found their way through the unofficial entrance. They’re leaving their own marks, making history in a way. But what attracts us to those empty halls of nothing? Possibly the fact that we are the only ones here. New spaces spread like rumors, buildings are being put on hold to get torn down at some point. But before all of that happens, the creeping writers and explorers take over and make it their own.

It’s difficult to write about something like this to the public because then it pretty much opposes the charming secrecy the places carry with them. The point shall be that you’ll have to find them yourself if you’re that motivated, but that we love to share what we see anyway. Get excited. Look further. Climb up on walls. Risk a view from the bottom or from the sky, in any case: don’t take the city for granted. It’s an adventure.

As we’ve announced a couple of days ago, the I Eat You Dinner is now ready for you to enjoy: for the next couple of days, you’ll be able to book your seats at an inviting table full of interesting people. Last night, I was offered the chance to participate in the first round of the pop up restaurant. And who would’ve thought: many of my dear friends had decided to come independently as well! What I expected to be a night amongst strangers turned out to be an evening with the family.

But more than that, the location — an impressive loft on Kottbusser Damm / Schönleinstraße — and the charming chaos of the makers were what made the dinner one of the most relaxing and adventurous experiences I’ve ever had at a dinner table. First of all, you wouldn’t have expected the beautiful mess to be inside this very low profile entrance — but it definitely added to the Neukölln image.

Everything was set up in such a perfect way. The food was prepared in a do-it-yourself fashion, which let the diners interact with the food, the people and the gorgeous space. And don’t be afraid: there’s a natural urban chique attached to the dinner, so it’s not fancy per se but astoundingly alluring.

That loft, we discovered, was actually in use. Three people share the space — there are three more separate rooms adding to the vast living room where the dinner took part. The bed and the stuff that were once part of the living room made exploring the room even more challenging. My first thought: woah, this is some heavy Berlin cliché overload. But what can I say? It’s a cliché for a reason.

There was certainly a very special atmosphere and I would absolutely recommend to all of my readers to experience it for themselves if they can make the time. Find all the details about the I EAT YOU dinner here.

Do you know these stereotype pictures of beautiful lonley beaches with some palms and turqoise water. I never really liked them. Not because of the beauty in it, but because they always seemed to be at the end of the world. Since I’m a city kid I need people around me and somehow an urban environment to feel well.

Arriving in Rio de Janeiro was one of these big exciting moments in my travel life. I mean I traveled to a lot of big citys but I knew this city is different. Influenced by movies, Baile Funk Music and the Graffiti of Os Gemeos & Pixacaos I had a deep wish to experience this upcoming country and especially Rio de Janeiro.

I can say that Rio is different and full of controversity. It is not a beauty. Turning these amazing beachsides into on rich ghetto full of architectural boredomness is just one of the mistakes a city can ruin it’s own soul. But fuck it. You are sitting there on the beach and when you are turning your head and discover the beauty of the smooth rounded montains around the city with it’s natural rain forests you forget about the rest. Okay not really because than you also have to ignore the 700 favelas that take over nearly every free space of the city and espacially the mountains.

This also marks one of the biggest problems of the city and as a foreigner you are not really able to build your own picture. The heavy war between the police and the favela drug lords still continues with tousands of people getting killed every year. Thanks to graffiti artist BEAM who showed me around these “No Entry” areas I was able to explore some favelas myself and what I saw belongs to some of the most intense experiences in my travel life. I mean I never showed 10 year old kids on crack with guns how to write their names with spraycans. BEAM told me that the situation gets even worse because after cocaine cheap crack arrived in the favelas just a couple of years ago and fucks the people like never before.

But next to all these problems the cariocas (Rio locals) have a lifestyle you can’t compare. I would describe it as a relaxed smoothness combined with a positive energy. They know they live in a special place and the Samba rhythms all over town are just on expression you can see from the outside.

I’m excited how things develope in the next years. It is for sure that Brasil belongs to one of the fastest upcoming cities worldwide and Rio has a potential like very less citys in this world. If they get their problems fixed it is one city I would definitly wanna live in for some years. And I don’t say this for many citys.

Note:
I’d like to thank LEICA cameras for inviting me to be part of the Leica Explorers team. I spent 1 month in South America last year and traveled all the way down to Patagonia. If you are interested in more pictures of Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires and Patagonia please check my Leica Explorerers Blog over here.

Interesting collaborations aren’t exactly rare, but only with THE SUPERLATIVE JOURNEY by WeSC x Smart do they come looking so good. It’s all about exploring the world: it’s all about the journey. That motto in mind, the makers of the collab have sent their people around the hottest metropoles of the world to return with masses of digital documentation for all of us to enjoy. Berlin, New York, Paris — whatever it is you’re looking to discover, you shall not forget: the journey is the mission.

The best part about all of this (and about every possible PR stunt) is not the chique videos or the cool headphones; usually, it’s the get-together organized by the makers. Last night, for example, we had a pretty good time at the launching event of The Superlative Journey. To be honest, it’s more like a family gathering. Drinks, fun, and happy people all around. And that’s a pretty Berlin thing to do, too: sit on the sidewalks and chat to your Mitte friends about what’s going on, on– and offline. You just know that your friends are going to be there, along with people you only meet on occasions like that.

It’s a nice change in the daily routine. Cheers to our hosts! By the way: check out the Berlin video of the Superlative Journey.

Let’s get real for a second: it’s not the buildings or the history of a city exclusively that make it a good place to be. In Berlin, it’s first and foremost the people who unite to create. Who meet each other and don’t judge where they’re from. Who get talking and find that something is missing in the city: maybe a new bar, a new club, a new shop, a new restaurant. And then, just like that, they make it happen. Of course, you could make things happen everywhere — but it’s the drive and the momentum in Berlin that spins you into a delirium of ideas and projects. That might be confusing and even destructive sometimes, but usually, only good things come out of it.

Our friends, a group of young creatives, from architects to set-designers, thought that Kreuzberg possibly needed a secret place to wine and dine, accompanied by music and art performances. The pop up restaurant, “I EAT YOU”, is an intimate project with a mission to fascinate. That shouldn’t be too difficult. But: only 7 evenings will you have the chance to take part. We’ll be there on Thursday to see what it’s all about. Music, wine, good food, friendly people is what we’re expecting — you should probably be there, too.

The dates are 10 / 11 / 12 & 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 May // Dinner starts at 8 pm
Contribution to the night 33,- p.P.
Booking in advance only.
Facebook

Performances by VOIN DE VOIN and guests
Soundtrack by THE SORRY ENTERTAINERS (DJ Set)

3 — course Menu*, from 8 to 12 PM
including an appetizing cocktail on arrival as well as half a bottle of wine with dinner.

For reservations please contact:
moc.liamgnull@nilreb.uoytaei
*OR CALL 0176–58771781 for details

… that it’s a socially deprived district, where the skyline of grey industrialized buildings blurs with an equally grey sky – well, that’s just a petty, petty atrocity story. I want to tell you another story about this East Berlin district, a story of a Marzahn childhood.

Well, I grew up in Marzahn. It’s where my parents rooted for my first attempts on a bike – and I rode it right into the thorn bush. It’s where my friends and I sat in the branches of the plum tree, philosophising about football, cartoons and girls, nibbling one plum at a time. It’s where I excitedly found the GameBoy-cartridge for Street Fighter in the bushes, claimed in childish handwriting by some “Rocco Streh.” (wherever you are, Rocco, you can still have it back). It’s where we sneakily entered abandoned buildings and had the police get us out. In short: Marzahn was the backdrop for an ordinary childhood, being merely different from what we all shared.

But after all, Marzahn isn’t like Kreuzberg or Neukölln or most other boroughs of Berlin. Notorious for its vast amount of Plattenbauten, where by all accounts the socially weak live, it never had a good reputation. I wouldn’t blame you, if this was also your perception. But chances are, you’ve not been there so far. Let me give you some facts about this concrete jungle: In 1734, Marzahn was a small village of only 357 inhabitants. Until 1975, the somewhat waste area grew to house up to 6.149 people. From then on, everything changed for Marzahn, since it was chosen to become the site of the GDR’s prestige building project for a mass housing estate, conceived to make room for 35.000 apartments. Today, it houses 103.000 people, the connected districts of Biesdorf, Hellersdorf, Kaulsdorf and Mahlsdorf not included. Over the last two decades most of the buildings were renovated and now offer a high living standard for the masses.

But Marzahn is more than only a huge concrete jungle. Actually, there are so many parks and green areas that they constituted Marzahn’s coat of arms’ green colour – in fact, one particular park, Erholungspark Marzahn, received numerous prizes. However, no one would be surprised to see hares, foxes or hawks in Marzahn. It’s historic village center is still retained and includes a little farm with livestock breed you probably only know from the zoo. Hell, there’s even a working and producing windmill. Picture me as a kid grinding the grains of wheat amidst metropolis (I actually did that). Picture me also bareback riding to school on a majestic Arabian horse (I wish I actually did that).

However, Marzahn wasn’t always like that. There are still plenty traces from former GDR times: the socialist-realistic art in public space, the ever-so popular and now abandoned cinema “Sojus” or the still working concrete lanterns from the very first days. The people didn’t change that much and there is still a broad mixture of residents from every social and income class. But you’d still say that a significant amount of people struggles for its existence if not already lost. It’s true and it’s a nagging pain in every Marzahner’s heart. But times are changing.

Some might find the constant mocking of comedians such as “Cindy aus Marzahn” hilarious, but we don’t: They’re simply wrong. Marzahn surely isn’t rich Grunewald or posh Mitte. We like to have it modest. Because we know that one can easily lead a good life in Marzahn. Just ask the kids, they don’t miss anything. Neither did I and so am I still returning back to the place of my childhood with rich and joyous memories. Check out the photos and decide for yourself.

I have been to Copenhagen twice before this trip but its always something else if you explore a city with the perspective of someone who is actually living there. My dear firend Niels moved there after he had lived in berlin for quite a while. He found a small beautiful room in Nørrebro which is the multi-cultural, streetart-clustered, well-designed espresso-bar neighbourhood the lifestyle-elite tumblrs about. But the feel of Nørrebro is beyond the clishé of scandinavian aesthtics. Its pure living. Gladly i caught some of the first sunny days of the year and the streets were filled with people who just enjoyed the easyness that comes alongside spring. But the highlights of my trip lay next to the beautiful cityscape.

The first day Niels and me left the city and spend a day in the impressive Louisana Museum of Modern Art. Its located at a hill right at the ocean. The huge garden features different sculptures and the current exhibition of Andreas Gursky is really impressive. That really set the mood for the trip and we found ourselves exploring very unconventional parts of the city with our cameras. The fact  that my pictures  dont really show the great architecture and the detailed public design of Kopenhagen (which i really enjoyed) but a used, industrial aesthetic shows how much my visual focus is influenced by berlin. By the dirt, the imperfect, the errors.

Kopenhagen has this utopian feel to it. New archtitecture is integrated without being totally out of place like in germany, the bikelanes are as important as the streets, the organic food-movement is taken very seriously and in Christiania you have the hippie-utopia (sure, it has a history of governmental repression but its still there, breathing, chilling, smoking weed). You can get the impression that Kopenhagen has it all figured out and really shows how a contemporary city should be shaped. By the way, the bible of lifestyle magazines said it has the best quality of life. But just when you get too hyped about the lovely atmosphere you hear the story of Ungdomshuset , a alternative youth house which was evicted after a long controversy between its users and the city. The conflict is too complicated to tell the story without getting something wrong (check WIKI) but the fact is that there is now an empty space where used to be a freespace for youth and culture. (see the picture with the murial which is by shepard fairey and is deeply hated for its ignorance). Thats a common conflict we know very well form berlin where the interests of estate and cultural freedom collide very often.

Nevertheless Kopenhagen and its periphery is worth a visit every time of the year. Thanks to the best host, check out his photography! 

The Modersohnbrücke in Friedrichshain is famous for it’s one of a kind sundown viewing location. It’s the cheapest overview of the city including a wonderful lightning situation, so if you’ve ever wondered where to take your next date to, this is the right spot (although you probably won’t be alone. Modersohnbrücke usually is crowded, and you do have to like a bit of urban romance to enjoy the noises of the bypassing cars). It gives right into the “poor but sexy” slogan of our reigning government.

But Modersohnbrücke is more than that: it’s also one of the most popular places for small and passionate techno raves. Bonus: while everyone is off to secret and faraway locations to celebrate the sun, you can still be quite close to the center of the city. Bonus 2: if enough people bounce hard enough, the whole bridge starts giving in like a trampoline. Nothing like a drunk-off-your-ass adrenaline rush and the thrill of being close to death while you’re dancing.

In any case, our first rave for this upcoming summer was nothing but a success: sun, drinks, lovely people and really good music. I’m looking forward to the next gathering. Speaking of bridges: whatever happened to the customs at Admiralsbrücke? Do people still go there in the summer, or will they be sent fleeing by the cops?

Every 1st May Kreuzberg unites for one big party. Last year we had already covered the extraordinary people who make the MyFest happen every year. They’re mostly responsible for the good time everybody has dancing, eating and simply enjoying the kick off for a new summer season. This year though, we didn’t spend a lot of time at the MyFest. Instead, our flat on Skalitzer Straße invited all of our friends over to hang around on our makeshift summer balcony right on Skalitzer Straße. From here we had the best view on the people who were strolling around the Kreuzberg Kiez from one Open Air rave to the next.

Needless to say, we had an amazing time far off from riots or disturbances. The music was top notch as always, people were drunk by 2 PM and everyone had a pretty awesome time. We’re already looking forward to the next Mayday which is kinda like a Summer version of New Year’s Eve: finally, people are out on the streets again. This is the Berlin we love.

Sometimes, Berlin can be a bit too frantic for me. Whenever I feel that I need to retire for a while, I book a flight to a calmer place such as Stockholm. But after I got invited to visit a friend’s art performance abroad and finally returned to Berlin, I knew there was a strong and beautiful competitor: Vienna.

Let me give an example of how serene Vienna is: Though being used to the street musicians and pavement performers who are intertwined with the fabric that makes up Berlin’s and particularly Kreuzberg’s public space, I somehow turned grumpy and narky in Vienna. Having a delicious piece of Sacher cake and a Café mélange in a coffeehouse at Stephansplatz, I got fed up with a crew of foreign breakdancers who dared to disturb my celestial peace. Furiously, I had to go and come to rest at another café. Obviously, over these few days Maria and I spent in this wondrously calm city, I got completely assimilated.

The first thing Vienna surprises you is its lack of any street noise. Hardly any car is seen in the central district. Vienna is placid, but vivid. You might not find Vienna the city of excessive open-air raves and ever-lasting techno parties, that we love Berlin for. Because it has simply too much serenity for that. Picture it a more classy version of Prussian and Bavarian cities, but with a lot of dolce vita flowing in from the South. Take Unter den Linden, add fairly a lot of Kreuzberg laissez-faire and spice it with some Kranzler Eck mood. Best served with a piece of fine Austrian pastry.

The second thing you’ll encounter is Vienna’s rich bike culture. Since we are passionate bicycle lovers, our jaws literally locked wide open due to permanently dropping in awe over all the beautiful and stunning bikes that dash through the streets. Rare vintage racing bikes, collectible single speeds and the fanciest fixed gears gathered throughout the city in what I still feel was a huge showcase stunt. They were simply everywhere. Just to make it clear to you: Even the elderly riders had more class than what you might ever achieve on two wheels. Deal with it.

But our hearts still didn’t feel their greatest bike related joy until we stumbled upon carefully hidden Radlager Palazzo. As its name implies it was nothing less than a treasure cave to us, displaying and selling the finest examples of bike craftsmanship along with fresh organic vegetables and fruits straight from Italy. Complete with a connected café and some calm Jazz tunes this was the perfect place to get back after a long and stressful day. Well, don’t get me wrong, Vienna surely can be frantic at times, but you’ll have to go for it.

The best opportunity to experience Vienna’s vivid sides is to plunge into the more than a kilometer spanning Naschmarkt, the city’s most renowned market for fresh vegetables and fruits, exquisite delicacies from all over the world and whatnot. Be it forty types of vinegar, a vast collection of rare Chinese spices or Italian ravioli in flavours you probably never heard about – name it, they got it. This mild mould cheese you had at this picturesque restaurant in Britanny? Sure, they sell it over there. You’d like the spinach Börek you always enjoyed at Mehringdamm? Excellent choice, do you like some refreshing Anatolian mountain water with that? I’d reckon it was hand-bucketed by a Turkish beauty and carefully transported by a pace of donkeys to Vienna’s Naschmarkt, just for your pleasure. (Look, there’s a greeting card attached to it, hand-written by said beauty!)

After these way too short days in Vienna, that had an enormously captivating influence on us, one thing is sure: We’ll return on a warm summer’s day, as a crew of at least five, get some bikes and just keep riding through the empty streets from one café to the next, having one sort of cake at a time, to fully merge in what we’d approvingly coined the Viennese art of living.

(Pictures both by Maria and me.)