• I want to take better aerial photographs. (From camera setting fundamentals to advanced tips for experienced manual camera setting users – including how to manage the competitive world of commercial photography – we can hone in on whatever you’d most like to improve. My aerial photography career began with a film camera in helicopters in the 1980s, so there’s a lot of experience options to choose to learn from.)
• Will a drone will be feasible for my particular purpose? Or perhaps, is other technology or a contract service a better option? (Considering ROI/net cost, the time you have available, weather or location challenges, safety/rules, likely results/suitability etc. Or perhaps you’re nervous about your level of tech skills?)
• Which drone model is best for the job I have in mind? What accessories are useful for my purpose, & what are a waste of money? (It’s impossible to discern snake oil sellers from honest retailers if you’re not familiar with the goods being sold.)
• How do I get started flying drones? (What knowledge is especially relevant to my situation? Maximise efficiency & confidence building.)
• Help! I have a problem with my drone that I need help to figure out! (Save stress and avoid time/money wasting – and another crash.)
• I need some realistic drone career advice! Because I’m thinking of changing jobs/starting up a small business; or I have a son or daughter who is interested in a career. (I can give you a realistic idea of what your unique advantages/assets may be, in relation to current & future potential drone industry careers or small business opportunities. You may be pleasantly surprised at the possible value of your previous activities or specific interests.)
• I have set up a drone business and need advice on what to charge, how to find customers, what insurance do I need etc (from tips on ensuring you get paid to setting up an effective website and using social media).

Bearing in mind that if you’re wanting a session for just one hour, it’s best to figure out your priorities and work down the list, starting with your most important questions. Writing a list to share is a good idea, if you have a clear idea of the exact topics you’d like covered (& it’s fine if you don’t).

Receiving personally tailored answers to your questions can save you a huge amount of time and effort otherwise spent on research – when you will still be left wondering whether what you’ve read or heard is objective, comprehensive and reliable. Because in the drone industry – so often it is not. (Why I do what I do.)

So, to address this, now….

Personal drone advice/assistance (one-on-one):

My work has always involved travel but more so in recent years, and now it has ramped up and I’m able to expand into doing what I haven’t been able to before: providing one-on-one training/advice. Either in person (if you are near where I live, or where I’m visiting), via email, over the phone or via video (eg zoom meeting).

Time is charged in 1 hour chunks. Plus travel if that’s applicable – eg if you’re nearby, and want to get together for a fly. (Great for anyone who’d like to build confidence, early on.)

This brief, targeted service complements rather than replaces drone workshops. It helps expand the number of people who are able to put drones to good use, especially in regional areas – and Australia as a whole really needs this.

And for drone owners who have already attended a workshop or have a lot of experience/training, this one-on-one advisory service is a very efficient way of getting past a roadblock/progressing further.

Note that there is no charge if you are enquiring solely:

a) about a hardware or software issue and it’s clear from the start that it likely requires a repair centre; or

b) it’s something super-specific that isn’t within my realm of expertise and I need to refer you on to a field specialist.

Both these aspects are usually obvious from the initial enquiry.

Please enquire via the website contact form or social media if you are interested in personal drone advice. Outline what your challenge or challenges are, so I can estimate the time and service charge before we proceed.

NOTE: buyers of my drones can be gifted up to 30 minutes of essential flight tips, for free. (Wen I buy new drones, the ones I already own are sold, usually online. More than a dozen of my drones have been rehomed, to date)

Rural Drone Academy workshops:

Attending a full day drone workshop is priceless because a comprehensive session is ‘teaching a person how to fish’, instead of ‘giving them a fish for the day’. IE a full day session gives you A to Z information to be confidently independent. But attending training usually requires travel and not everyone can manage that, and you may need help today, not weeks later – hence the additional short & specific option, above.

During workshops I cover a huge range of unexpected but incredibly useful topics that no other drone trainers cover. For example, solar weather (image below), and why you need a basic understanding of it.

We also share entertaining stories/examples, have a good laugh and get stuck into useful discussions on issues that are locally relevant. You get to meet a group of other people with similar interests, forming a handy drone-user network.

Comments from drone workshop attendees & experience:

I have presented drone information sessions in every state and territory, from the largest capital cities to Australia’s most remote regions. You may like to read some comments from people who have attended previous drone training sessions.

• My work has won a number of awards, national and international
• I’ve owned more than a dozen drones (three different brands)
• Flown many hours across Australia
• Had to solve nearly every drone problem under the sun (much hair tearing!)
• And been invited to speak at major drone events on four continents.

So you can have confidence that you are receiving reliable and top quality drone industry advice. Unlike YouTubers, ‘influencers’ and most drone/tech event speakers, I don’t receive commissions or free drones from anyone; or sell drones or drone services (most of my commercial photography is freelance). This forthright independence/objectivity is a rare thing in the drone world.

My advice is instead upfront ‘fee for advice’ – so you know exactly what you are paying for.

Tens of thousands of dollars have been invested in obtaining solid drone knowledge/experience, and while you may only need an hour of my time, you receive an efficient distillation of years of work. One hour costs less than the price of one drone battery, so from your point of view, the return on investment is a no-brainer!

If you are in business or full time employment please do not ask for advice for nothing; it is valuable and must be paid for. (And tax deductible, if it relates to your income source.)

Contact Fiona Lake via the website regarding Rural Drone Academy workshops or tailored drone advice, or initially via social media.

The post Personal drone training – (one-on-one help or advice) first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

FUTURE events we could cross paths at & dates out of the office:

2026:

• 26-29 May – Magnetic Island (North Queensland) – commercial photography & drone training
• July-Oct – dry season travelling, primarily NT & WA (details & dates TBA)
• More personalised one-to-one drone training, in random locations. You will never know where I’ll bob up.

Cancelled or postponed:

• 24-26 March, AUVSI Exponential, Dusseldorf (Germany). One of the speakers at the main European exposition for autonomous technologies & robotics.  My talk was to be an overview of current drone use across the Australian continent – tropical to temperate, remote to urban – fact vs fiction: current headaches and possible solutions, and a global comparison.  Several date changes made due to the USA’s war in the Middle East; then unfortunately travel to Europe (via Dubai) had to be cancelled.
• 10-12 March, AAUS RPAS in Australian Skies 2026, Canberra (ACT). One of the speakers at the annual conference for Australia’s largest drone organisation – my session was titled – ‘After a Decade, what now?’ I cancelled my attendance with regret because the original travel dates for AUVSI Xponential in Germany were too close together (then this EU trip was made impossible, due to the USA war in the Middle East)

Previous Events & trips, summary:

2025:

• 29 June – 2 September – East & West Kimberley drone photography; Halls Creek & Kununurra Rodeos, coacher mustering & bullcatching; another RM Williams Outback Magazine story – Lindsay Ward, at work; and an RM Williams Outback Magazine story – on Daral & Sarah Dahl – unique northern contract musterers.
• 10 May – 6 June – dry season travel & photography across northern Australia
• Personalised one-to-one drone training, in random locations

Bullcatching in the Kimberley (2024) – using a variety of cameras, to create the best story. As well as workshops, I run one-to-one personal photography training – using any cameras – from phones & drones to professional standard DSLRs.

• 19 March – 6 April; US drone conferences. First the Palm Springs Drone Festival. Instigated by renowned Californian cinematographer and drone trainer, Skip Fredricks, this inaugural event is genuinely unique – bringing the fun and real creativity back into drone events.  Then the third Spray Drone End User Conference, this year in Mobile, Alabama. Hands-down the world’s best spray drone conference. Created & overseen by Steve Li – almost every speaker is an actual spray drone user (no other national drone event has this level of practicality & experience), the trade stands are top quality, the program is chock full of serious quality presentations – and the attendees are also so interesting. From all over the US, plus some from Canada and others from South American countries plus the Caribbean. This is a benchmark drone conference that I wish others would emulate! If you are in the spray drone industry, anywhere in the world, this event is a must-attend. After that, a week with globally renowned marine drone photographer & cinematographer, Joanna Steidle (Long Island, NY).

2024:

• 7 November – Inglewood, Southern Qld; drone photography full day workshop – hosted by Goondiwindi Regional Council. Information & booking link
• 7 Aug – 9 Sept – East Kimberley, WA; commercial photography (remote area, patchy communication). Feb-March 2025 Outback magazine photo essay on bullcatching
• 4-6 March Australian Association of Uncrewed Systems, RPAS of the Skies (Realm Hotel, Canberra, ACT); day 1 speaker (away 3-7 March). AAUS is Australia’s largest drone organisation & one of the largest, per capita, in the world.
• North Queensland; ongoing one-to-one drone training (locals & visitors)
• (2024 was mostly dealing with trades, working on house restoration. Why did I think that was a good idea….!)

DJI Mavic 3 Thermal drone, at sunset – I bring a thermal drone to some workshops & personal (one-to-one) training sessions. Phone image, straight from the camera – I also run phone photography sessions, to help people get the best results from whatever camera they are using.

2023:

• November & December: more one-to-one training in North Queensland….plus moving house (2nd time in 12 months) & renos begun.
• Oct 30 UAVNZ – 2023 conference (online)  UAVNZ is New Zealand’s drone organisation – set up as a division of Aviation New Zealand. Great quality conference with a list of speakers that were 1) unusually diverse and 2) hands-on drone operators. A rare dose of practicality and realism, in an era when so many drone events are choked with regulatory discussions.
• 2 Oct – 2 Nov; UK & USA; various adventures – including Gravity Industries & the Women & Drones awards night and summit, at the Smithsonian Aerospace Museum in Washington DC
• Sept 20-21 Far North Queensland (thermal photography; ground & aerial)
• Sept 5-7 Commercial UAV Expo, Las Vegas; invited speaker – on 2 panels (away 4-11 Sept)
• 14-16 Aug – Victoria & southern NSW
• 21 July – Devonport, Tasmania 2023 Tasmanian Drone Industry Summit – speaking on innovation & insights plus conference trip to Cradle Mountain, & whisky tasting. (Away 18-24 July.)
• 7-9 July, Brisbane
• 5-9 June, Cairns (North Qld); Tropical Innovation Festival
• April 29 – May 3; aerial photography, northern Victoria/southern NSW
• March 20 – April 5; Kimberley coastal photography (WA & NT)
• March 2-6 Western Qld to Top End (NT)
• Feb – 3-8 – Victorian high country/southern NSW
• Jan – Consumer Electronics Show (CES), Las Vegas (USA). Away 30 Dec 2022 – 11 Jan 2023
• 2023’s Major news – at long last, due to enquiries: one-to-one tailored drone training now provided, in addition to group workshops.  See separate preliminary announcement blog post on Personal Drone Training.  If you would like a personalised drone training session please send details of what you need & want, via the contact page, so we can discuss your options.

2022:

• October 21 – ag drone workshop, Tambellup, Western Australia (away 18 – 28 Oct)
• Sept 27-30 Far North Queensland, aerial photography (new drone)
• Sept 6-8 – Commercial UAV Expo, Las Vegas – Dates away – 3 – 13 Sept.
• Sept 16-19 – commercial photography, Mt Isa (north western Qld)
• July 27-29 Riverine Plains Innovation Expo, Yarrawonga (Vic/NSW border).  3 days of events – farm tours, trade show then conference. Flying the thermal drone & speaking about drones in ag – mythbusting & practical tips.  Away 26 July to 2 August.
• July 30 – Victorian Drone Photography Masterclass, Bright (Alpine – snow country, Victoria). Bright is a historic town set in a photogenic landscape, just a few hours drive north from Melbourne. Event details in the Victorian Drone Photography Masterclass blog post.   Delayed 2 years due to Covid. A great group of attendees, very interesting.
• July 2 – North Queensland Drone Workshop, Townsville. Topic & other details on the Nth Qld Drone Workshop blog post. 1 day general drone workshop;  covering as much of the fundamentals as possible, a myriad of tips that I wish I’d been able to find out in one day when I first started. (Instead I’ve learned via hours of flying drones in every Australian state & territory, bucketloads of ongoing research, and attending events here and in other countries.) What topics to cover? The A to Z fundamentals of what every drone pilot needs to know to fly safely, legally, productively and enjoyably.    The venue is an inspiring location, overlooking the sea and Magnetic Island.
• June 4-7 – SE Qld/northern NSW, aerial photography (& thermography – cold buildings)
• May 11-19 – Top end (NT), aerial photography
• April 22-25 – Central Qld, aerial photography
• April 3-7 – Far North Queensland, aerial photography
• March 9-10 – Brisbane (SE Qld) AgriFutures Rural Women’s Award finalist interviews & presentation. (Away 9-11 March)
• March 1 – Barham (southern Riverina, NSW); Drones on Farms workshop; hosted by the Western Murray Land Improvement Group. (Originally scheduled for Sept 2021, then Jan 2022; postponed until March 2022, due to covid 19). (Away 28 Feb to Mar 4)

2021:

• Nov 13-14; Wandoan (southern Qld) – two day Drone Photography Masterclass, run by the Wandoan Arts Council.
• Nov 15-19; Brisbane – Cert 1 in thermography course (away Nov 12 to 24)
• Nov 3; Agtech 21, Emerald (Central Qld) – agtech event. Away 2-4 Nov.
• Sept-Oct – Three trips to Brisbane
• August 7-24 South Australia. August 13 – Marree (Far Northern SA), Pastoral Best Practice Bootcamp – multi topic day. My presentation was on the practical use of drones on arid stations. Run by the SA Arid Lands Landscape Board. (Rescheduled from March 2021); plus commercial photography work, commissioned & freelance, in northern SA.
• July cane industry commercial work, Burdekin irrigation area (North Queensland) (single days only)
• June 16, Brisbane (Qld), Australian Association for Unmanned Systems conference (AAUS), in conjunction with Rotortech, presentation on drone use in Australian agriculture. (Rescheduled from 2020; due to Covid19.) (Away 15-24 June)
• June 21-22 – Nindigully then Hebel (Southern Qld), ag drone workshops.  Hebel on 22 June & Nindigully on 21 June.  (Away 15 – 24 June)
• May 25 & 26 Hobart, Tasmania – Drone Photography Masterclass, followed by a half-day drone photography business session. A unique location for a unique drone event – Hadley’s Orient Hotel.  (Away from home 21 May to 5 June.) More information on the Tasmanian Drone Photography Masterclass.
• May 2-8 Beef Australia, Rockhampton (Central Queensland) – as usual in the Walter Pierce Pavilion; Stand WP65. What a great event – record crowds – more than 31,000 on the busiest day.  For the first time, I sold out of books completely. Looking forward to 2024!
• March 17-19; Atherton Tablelands (Far North Queensland) – commission ag drone photography.
• March 10-11; Australian Association for Unmanned Systems (AAUS) ‘RPAS in Australian Skies’ conference in Canberra.  Announced as the AAUS ‘Industry Champion – Education & Safety award winner, at the gala dinner. (Away 9-15 March).
• February; Burdekin/Haughton irrigation area (North Queensland), cane industry photography commission work.
• January; Western & Southern Queensland, trips to Brisbane & Mt Isa (work & pers).

During 2021 & 2022 I was invited back to speak at drone conferences in China, the US and Europe – but unable to attend due to Covid.

Other drone events I was to speak at have been altered, postponed or permanently cancelled due to Covid19 related reasons; such as the Drone Zone at the 2021 Avalon Airshow (near Geelong, Victoria); and a number of other events in Qld, NSW and Victoria.

2020:

• Central Australia (NT), 18 December, full day drones in ag workshop; Mount Riddock Station, organised by Desert Poppies & funding support received from a number of sources, principally the National Drought and North Queensland Flood Response and Recovery Agency. (Away 15 Dec to 22 Dec)
• Online, Canada – Advancing Women in Agriculture conference; 24-25 Nov; pre-recorded video presentation: ‘If you bought a drone, you might be as surprised as I was’; followed by online Q & A session.
• South West Queensland; Introduction to drones in agriculture workshops. November – 21 in Quilpie, 22 in Thargomindah, 24 in Cunnamulla, 25 in Morven.  (Away 19 Nov to 26 Nov)
• South Australia, commission photography; first week of November (away 1 – 7 November)
• North West Queensland; E-Beef ag drone workshops – Cloncurry & Hughenden; 27 & 29 October (away 26 to 30 October). How to put drones to good use on northern cattle stations; mythbusting; and agtech that is better for some purposes. The E-Beef project is supported by a partnership comprising Southern Gulf NRM, Desert Channels Queensland, Northern Gulf RMG, and Queensland Department of Agriculture and Fisheries. Funding for the project is from the Australian Governmentâ€s National Landcare Program and the Queensland Government Drought and Climate Adaptation Program.

• 
• Online, USA – Commercial UAV Expo – Americas – Drones in agriculture & ranching; live panel session Friday 18 Sept (US West Coast PDT, Thursday 17)

• Great to be speaking at another Commercial UAV Expo, this time at the US event (online) – the roundtable discussion on drones in agriculture and ranching. An interesting group of panellists and a great topic, not discussed at other drone conferences.

• Online, China – Drone World Congress 2020 in Shenzhen (run by the World UAV Federation) – International Precision Agricultural Aviation conference; pre-recorded video presentation: ‘Spray drones in Australia – progress and impediments to uptake’.

2020 Drone World Congress (run by the World UAV Federation), in Shenzhen, China – online presentation listing in the schedule for the International Conference on Precision Agricultural Aviation. Three overseas drone conference trips were planned in 2020, but all of them turned into online presentations, due to travel restrictions.

• South East Queensland, interviews of leading drone industry pilots; away 1-5 Sept
• South West Queensland, 2 day drone & aerial photography workshop, a Rural Academy event; hosted by the Quilpie Cultural Association & funded by Queensland’s Regional Arts Development Fund (RADF) and also the Civil Aviation Safety Authority (CASA); 25-26 July.  These drone workshops are unique, Australia-wide so participants often travel long distances to participate. Several of the two dozen attendees drove 1,000km to attend and several others drove 500km (one way. IE 2,000 & 1,000km in total).
• Online, Australia – Farms Advice podcast, July interview with Jack Creswell
• Online, Germany - 50th Dronemasters Meetup – online event, midnight 3 June to 2am 4 June (based in Canada); seven speakers on drones from around the world – Germany, UK, Ghana, USA plus myself.  (Not recorded; only broadcast live)
• Online, Victoria – Cynthia Mahoney & Associates ‘Wellbeing Wednesday’ interview, 6 May (hour long, session recorded with participant Q & A session)
• Online, Canada – The Drone Trainer Podcast interview, March (hour long, pre-recorded session)
• Western Queensland, commission drone photography, mid March
• Online, South East Queensland – Wandoan Photo Challenge -  late March; judged the photography entries again this year, delighted to be asked again! Luckily – online, not in person. This is the best-run rural photography competition in Australia, as far as I know.  But – the images must have been taken within a 100km radius of Wandoan. Lucky locals! Other photography competition organisers would do well to read the Wandoan T & C.
• Far North Queensland/Gulf Country, commission drone photography – 5 – 10 March
• North Queensland, Rural Drone Academy workshop, Sarina – 29 Feb; Introduction to drones workshop, full day; plus Sarina school talk (away 28 Feb – 1 March). Sponsored by the Bendigo Community Bank.
• Central Queensland, Queensland Department of Agriculture & Fisheries, Rockhampton region; commission photography; 18-22 February.
• January; limited work hours due to illness; & reduced computer hours due to major system upgrade (not completed until early February).

2020 POSTPONED, CANCELLED, SUBSTANTIALLY ALTERED (not all listed here):

By January 2020 I had drone events and photography commission work lined up for every month of 2020, including 3-4 overseas work trips. Commission jobs were cancelled for North Queensland, the Gulf Country & NT and other jobs that normally would have materialised during the course of the year, remained absent. Some of the 2020 major engagements cancelled or postponed:

• USA & Canada; drone-related training – March (postponed indefinitely)
• Townsville City Library, North Qld – 2 drone & aerial photography workshops plus author talk; during Townsville City Council’s July ‘Festival of Stories’; 14-18 July (postponed; probably cancelled)
• USA; InterDrone Texas- 2 panels and on the Women and Drones trade stand. Conference originally to run 18-20 August then rescheduled for 15-17 December 2020, then moved online.
• Broken Hill Agfair, Western NSW; drones in agriculture & mobile phone photography workshops, in conjunction with the RFDS. (Agfair postponed again until 2022. Was to be early May 2020, then May 2021, now 2022; workshop probably cancelled).
• The Netherlands; Commercial UAV Expo Europe, I was to present a talk on drones in agriculture. Conference was to run 1-3 December 2020, in conjunction with Amsterdam Drone Week.

2019:

• Far North Queensland; commission photography – away 16 Dec to 19 Dec (home just in time to mail book orders for pre-Christmas delivery)
• Queensland Rural Press Club Christmas function (Brisbane) for the annual photography award presentation, then Victoria for MLA commission photography; away 5 – 12 December.
• Interrupted work hours & travel in November, due to a family member’s illness & recovery.
• Melbourne (Victoria) – away 8 – 10 November
• Innamincka (South Australia) Rural Academy training – ag drone workshop, RFDS wellness weekend – away 1-4 November.
• Department of Agriculture & Fisheries, Innisfail (Far North Queensland) commercial photography – away 22-23 October.
• Marcus Oldham agricultural college, Geelong (Vic) – Rural Academy training – ag drone talk for farm management students; away 15 -17 Oct.
• World of Drones Congress, Brisbane (SE Queensland) – 26-27 Sept (away 20-27 Sept); presented a talk on drones in agriculture – current reality vs myths, and predictions.
• RAPAD Outback AeroDrone Symposium, Barcaldine (CW Queensland) – 21-23 September (away 20-27 Sept); Rural Academy training – presented a half-day aerial photography masterclass.
• Cobb & Co Festival, Surat (Southern Qld), 23-25 Aug (away 22 – 26 Aug). A commemoration of the last Cobb & Co Coach run in Australia – 95 years ago. Australian agriculture was founded on the sweat & loyalty of hard working horses and I love to see respect being paid to them. So I especially enjoyed being part of recognising this vital part of Australia’s inland history, and taking drone images.  I look forward to the next Cobb & Co Festival, the centenary – in 2024.
• IRELAND & UK FARM TOUR:  16 July – 10 Aug 2019 (away 15 July – 17 Aug).  Ireland, Wales, England & Scotland; during the height of Britain’s summer – I escorted 25 farmers around a huge diversity of highlights – agricultural and otherwise. This particular tour had three unique features. 1) an unusual number of opportunities to converse with a large diversity of locals involved in agriculture, sometimes over lunch or dinner; 2) more events visited than any other farm tour & 3) Professional-standard photographs to remind everyone of their journey highlights. More details on this fantastic farm tour of Ireland and the UK on this blog page. Don’t hesitate to contact me by phone (07 4728 4922) or email if you have any queries regarding future tours, or you would like to subscribe to my Overseas Farm Tour newsletter.

One of the unique aspects of the 2019 UK & Ireland farm tour – the number of events and special occasions included in the itinerary. British Isles shows are still focused on agriculture and very traditional.

• Atherton Tablelands & Cairns (Far North Queensland) – away 6-8 July.
• The 3rd Drone World Congress, 2019 -  run by the World UAV Federation, Shenzhen, China. Plus 2 other drone events; Nanjing & Huizhou. 19-24 June (away 17 – 25 June). Presented a talk on drones in Australian agriculture, & innovative ways to increase uptake – at the conferences in Shenzhen & Nanjing.
• NQ Dry Tropics – mobile phone photography workshops (in house), 13 & 14 June; Townsville & Ayr (North Queensland)
• Blackall Cultural Association 2 day drone photography masterclass, Blackall (Central Western Queensland) 8-9 June. (Away 6 -10 June)  Rural Academy training, funded by RADF & the Blackall-Tambo Regional Council.
• Pooncarie Field Day (Western NSW), 4 May (away 5-6 May) – Rural Academy training; presentation on using drones on farms & stations.
• Commercial UAV Expo, Europe (Amsterdam, Netherlands); 8-10 April 2019 (away 2 April to 25 April). Presented on drones in agriculture plus involved in a roundtable discussion. Also Belgium, France, UK.
• Wandoan Photography Challenge, South East Queensland, late March – delighted to judge this great regional photography competition in 2019. I judged it from home rather than on the spot, but mention it here as it’s a great annual opportunity for photographers within a 100km radius of Wandoan to win very generous prize money and see their work recognised.
• Australian International Airshow & Aerospace & Defence Exposition, Avalon Airport, Victoria; 1-3 March 2019 (away 28 Feb – 11 March); plus commercial photography in northern Victoria & Tasmania. Avalon Airshow is the most comprehensive air show in the southern hemisphere and 2019 included the drone showcase. I was invited to present an introduction to drones in agriculture session. I love aviation so enjoyed it immensely, & hope to return in 2021!
• Tintern Old Girls Association – presentation at the AGM, along with fellow former boarder & now film producer, Fiona Eagger. 6 March.
• Late January to early February – floods in Townsville; interrupted postal and other services, apologies for delays.
• Austrade lunch, Brisbane – away 30 January.
• Commercial photography, Top End (NT) & Kimberley (WA); away 11 January until 21 January.

PREVIOUS EVENTS:

• Previous events give a good indication of the diversity and what might be on in future. If you’d like to see a listing of the main 2016-2018 events, visit the Previous Events page.
• Some comments from workshop attendees can be found on the Comments from participants page.

ANNUAL OFFICE CLOSURES & POTENTIAL INTERRUPTIONS:

• Late December to late January – shorter public hours are worked in order to catch up on the busy year that’s just finished, and new one ahead.
• February – tropical Australia’s highest rainfall month; it’s the height of the wet season and it’s not unusual for business to be interrupted by heavy rain or a cyclone.  Work continues but I rarely commit to travelling away between the last week of January and mid March because of this. Sometimes there’s interruptions to our power supply and postal, phone and internet services.
• Public holidays – I often work on public holidays & weekends but in order to complete work on these days, phonecalls are usually not taken (but emails often answered).

BEST WAYS TO CONTACT FIONA LAKE:

• When I’m in the office, email is best for 24/7 enquiries (or ring [07] 4728 4922).
• When travelling, social media is the best way to start the conversation, especially if your enquiry is urgent.
• Sometimes I do not have access to any networks, but your message will be responded to as soon as possible.
• Apologies for any inconvenience caused by office absences/delayed responses to enquiries. Ideally I’d have a bevvy of slaves, but alas not. You receive personal service as I have no staff.

Fiona Lake – social media account contact options:

• Twitter & LinkedIn: the fastest way to get a message to me when I’m travelling.
• Facebook & Instagram: I use these less often, but endeavour to check daily.
• Email:  When I’m in the office this is the best way to enquire.
• Landline phone:  If my office absence is longer than 2 weeks please don’t leave phone messages as Messagebank automatically deletes messages older than 14 days – and they can’t be retrieved.

The post Next events & office opening hours first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

It makes sense for climate reasons and economics – enough customers with the cash to pay for a professional standard search service, and enough people who aren’t the sharpest tools when it comes to ensuring pets don’t escape (anthropomorphism is rife in ‘developed’ countries – the belief that ‘my pet loves me so much it would never leave, or it could easily find it’s way back when it started to miss me’.

The same combination doesn’t exist in Australia. I say no to requests because I don’t want to take somebody’s money for work that has such a tiny chance of success. The money can be much more usefully spent – eg as a reward.

I wish thermal drones for pet rescue was a good option in hotter parts of Australia but that’s just not the case – it’s like looking for a needle in a box of needles. Thermal drones can’t see through solid objects such as trees, and if there’s rocks around they heat up during the day and make differentiation difficult to spot. Drones also have a limited flight distance.

Even the best in the USA pet search & rescue business, often aren’t able to locate the pets – despite a stack of people on the ground also helping. During their very cold winters they of course have a much higher success rate as the temperature difference makes warm blooded critters stand out against the cold ground temperature (or water).

In the vegetated tropics, where I live – the likelihood of locating a lost pet that couldn’t be found via ground searches is close to zero.

Here’s what I recommend instead:

1. Don’t waste time – maximise effort before the ‘trail goes cold’.
2. Immediately offer money for the safe location/return of the pet. If it’s a suburb with a lot of kids or other enterprising people who’d like extra cash, it doesn’t have to be a huge amount to motivate people to actively look. If not, offer a bit more money and people may travel from nearby areas to see if they can earn the reward. More people on the look out or even going out of their way to search = far greater chance of success. Money motivates people.
3. Publicise it: posters, flyers in nearby letterboxes, doorknocking, talking to people out dog walking and jogging early and late each day. Plus posting on all the social media sites – etc.
4. Of course the obvious such as revisiting common haunts, where the pet was last seen, etc. Most animals of all kinds prefer paths – roads, footpaths, bushwalking & bike tracks. Walking means you can hear grass rustling and call out, as you walk – it’s better than using bikes or cars.
5. Be systematic – figure out a plan, think about your pet’s habits & preferences. EG in hot weather many pets will rest in the shade when the sun is high – so sunrise & just before sunset can be the best times to get out & about looking. Have water in your car & snacks in your pocket.

Prevention:

• Fencing, near escapes, training, etc – *never* put changes in the manana basket as you’ll maybe live to regret it. Act immediately.
• Microchipping – it’s also a no brainer one-off cost. If ever in a vet surgery or picked up by the dog catcher then your ownership is there for all to see. Yes disputed ownership occurs.
• Local council registration – keep dogs & cats registered & ensure their collars fit well, with ID tags and a usable phone number.
• Current images – keep a stack of current images of your pet, specifically taken for identification – eg showing summer & winter haircuts, different angles, special markings etc.
• Avoid the most notorious escapee breeds. Some dog breeds are notorious for escaping- I’d never own a Jack Russell, as I don’t want my heart broken. (They also kill a stack of wildlife).
• If it’s an unusual breed, it may be worth contacting any local breeders, to keep their eyes & ears open.
• Cats – cats are safer 24/7 indoors or in a cat run, and outdoors only when walked in a lead. Do this for the cat’s health & safety and you have no way of knowing what they do or where they go if left outside unsupervised. If you care about wildlife at all, it’s also a no brainer to protect them also, since domestic cats collectively kill more wildlife than Australia’s feral cats.

Fundamentally – think about preventing an escape on the first day of pet ownership and never let it leave your mind. Half a century ago a pet dog of ours vanished and we never knew what happened to it. I’ve also had a much loved pet escape through a tiny ventilation brick gap, and get hit by a car – so I know exactly how these disasters feel.

Ultimately it’s better to keep a pet confined while you fix a security problem, than have it running free then escape and be injured or killed. The former is more humane than the latter, although populist nonsense these days says otherwise.

When your pet is found:

1. Don’t forget to thank anyone who helped look
2. Remove any fliers that have been stuck to posts or community noticeboards. That helps ensure that other bereft pet owners can follow suit, instead of councils & business owners getting stricter about such notification postings.
3. Immediately make changes to ensure there’s no repeat performance. Do not ‘leave it until tomorrow’. One escape makes repeat performances likely.
4. Offer tips to others who have lost their pets.

There’s countless fantastic uses for thermal drones, including search & rescue for people and for locating livestock. Unfortunately small pets, high ground temperature, rocks, lots of scrub or trees and large areas mean thermal drones aren’t usually the best tool. Densely populated areas and airspace restrictions can also be problematic (safety related restrictions).

Unfortunately the drone industry is full of snake oil sellers. There are people who will:

a) say they’ll do it for nothing – but with little or no drone, thermal camera and/or SAR skills – and unconvincing pet behaviour knowledge. And you waste precious time on something with little chance of success. Or worse, they scare your pet away further.

b) charge you whatever $, despite a very small chance of success – and you waste money that could instead have been spent on a reward, that has many eyes motivated to find your pet for you.

Always ask drone operators:

1) what experience they have (verifiable online) that relates specifically to the task at hand. EG, if they’re looking for a dog, how well do they understand dogs? And your dog breed, in particular? Specific knowledge is vital, especially re not making the dog more wary

2) evidence of previous success, eg verifiable reviews (same as this website has a stack of comments from my workshop participants, with their names & region attached).

As usual, if I think of other points to add, this post will be updated.

The post Using a thermal drone to find a pet first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

I wrote this when I realised more people would take up requests to help assess grants, scholarships, bursaries and awards IF they had a clear idea upfront of what is typically entailed. Without info, many mistakenly feel like they’re volunteering for a difficult-to-leave committee that may turn out to be a massive time & energy sapper.

Some of what this covers:

• How time consuming might it be?
• How is assessment or judging usually done?
• Lists of considerations and a plan/system
• Pros and cons for all involved
• What attributes does a good assessor or judge need?

Summary of my typical process:

1. Receive the qualified & sorted applications by email
2. Read all the application info that applicants received so it is clear what they were expected to do, and most importantly – exactly why the primary grant/scholarship/award exists. The ultimate purpose must remain top of mind.
3. Either judge online or print & score with a pen as they’re read. I find handwriting notes on paper applications is massively more efficient & each can be easily rearranged into 3 initial main score groups: definitely not, probably yes, and the majority as ‘possibly’.
4. Next the essential – go right back through them all and adjust scores/result order because our scoring changes incrementally between the start and finish, as only once we’ve read the whole lot do we know how each compares to all the others.
5. Then enter scores online, plus notes – if applicable (especially if there’s a particular point that other assessors may not pick up on). Or better still – I type an email list of ‘yes’ applications, with comments. Sometimes a few ‘possibly’ additions (IE what do other judges think?) – and if there’s any that I think others are likely to think are shoo-ins but that didn’t stand up to scrutiny I list them and what researched revealed that resulted in a ‘no’.
6. If you encouraged people to enter or gave someone info that is already publicly available online, no problem assessing those. But do explain this to the admin/organiser. If you helped someone write an application (read it before submission and/or suggested the words to use) then explain this to the admin/organiser and disqualify yourself from assessing that particular application – leave it to the other panellists. Of course the bottom line is: when in doubt – explain clearly in writing. Needless to say, if you have previously judged the award/grant/scholarship, then don’t give any later applicants any advantageous information that only a judge/assessor would know – as nepotism isn’t fair on anyone and it trashes trustworthiness.
7. The admin/organiser then collates the assessment results – ideally sharing with all assessors three lists of applicants – the people everyone agreed on as yes, and no; plus those who received varying assessments.
8. Ideally panellists would then have an online meeting to discuss the applicants who receiving differing assessments. If the panel includes healthy diversity, some differences are likely due to an assortment of expertise and background. Hearing the reasoning of others can change final results. Unfortunately for expediency this is sometimes not done – but for all significant opportunities, it should be. I’ve had my mind changed, and changed the minds of other judges – and that is exactly how the best award, grant and scholarship judging is run. A group discussion also helps organisers aren’t at risk of complaints from dissatisfied applicants as it demonstrates thoroughness and a united front.

Why should *you* be an assessor?

• Assessors/judges never need formal qualifications however a thorough knowledge of the specific field is vital. You need to understand ‘industry speak’, have a good idea of what the current situation is and general life experience is something I view as essential – partly to ensure application pork pies and hyperbole are easily identified. If money and/or public recognition is involved there are people who won’t hesitate to lie.
• The number one consideration regarding taking up an assessment opportunity: why you? If you ‘don’t look like’ the other people involved it’s likely you’ll be a valuable addition as your views are likely to differ in useful ways. If you ‘don’t think you’ll fit’ you’re probably an ideal person to include. Examples of the likely personal differences that matter, due to common under-representation (amongst assessors or recipients):

• Regional or remote resident (or solid lived experience [not just a tourist, FIFO or temp])
• Much older or younger
• A woman (or man, on rare occasions where the percentage is reversed)
• Neurodiverse (ADHD or autistic or both)
• Different cultural or socioeconomic background
• Much longer and/or more varied experience (EG across different industries, even if seemingly unrelated; or in different regions)
• If ONE OR MORE OF THESE THINGS APPLY – it’s highly likely your views will be an invaluable addition to the assessment panel. If on the other hand you are almost identical to everyone else then to bluntly sum up: you are not such an asset (no panel needs more of the same).
• Lastly – if you tick some of those boxes but are nervous, remember: ‘if not me then who, if not now then when’. Give it a go. People with trepidation are often the most needed. If you get into it and realise it’s really not for you – of course you can apologise and bow out (just don’t wait until the judging results deadline – speak up early on.)

The first judging/assessment hurdle:

An admin beaver *should* weed out every application that does not meet essential, clearly stated criteria – this saves assessors wasting their time individually checking and second guessing. (Citizenship, for example, should be a requirement for all taxpayer money gifted via grants although apparently not the case, weirdly.)

But – sometimes the basic checks aren’t done by admin/organisers so if you spot any essential omissions speak up immediately, so the other assessors can be told whether or not to include the iffy application/s. It gets messy if this isn’t done & some people may argue (unreasonably) for favourite applicants who actually don’t qualify. Bending entry rules is undeniably unfair to others & this is one hill I’m prepared to die on.

Occasionally organisers will give applicants a chance to rectify omissions but this is usually not a fair thing to do, when other applicants have been thorough. It’s obviously a good idea if specifically seeking people who have never applied for anything before or with less formal education; but not a good idea if it’s a big dollar sophisticated project and/or there are a huge number of applicants. Horses for courses: what is the ultimate aim? Applications are collated then emailed to assessors, with a firm results deadline.

What do assessors consider?

• THE ULTIMATE ESSENTIAL: the real aim of the grant, scholarship or award – as publicly stated by the funding body and/or organiser/s. (Note – if they haven’t stated this clearly and publicly then raise it with them straight away and ensure it is in future, and check for guidance re assessing current applications; with this to be shared with other assessors, for consistency.)
• Any application that does not meet the fundamental aim of the whole show, should be culled immediately. As an example – if assessing a bursary expressly intended to increase diversity: all applicants who fit into the overwhelming already-existing majority should be culled. It doesn’t matter if they’ve invented the cure for cancer or lead a flight to the moon; if their application does not meet the aims it is not relevant. (Frustratingly, quite often, assessors are dazzled by achievements or fame and totally fail to cull at this first essential.) If the aim is to identify genuine innovators – check that what the applicant has done is actually THEIR genuine creativity and NOT something copied from someone else (which happens every second of every day. If only I had a dollar for every wheel-reinventing project gifted tens of thousands of taxpayer funding for ‘innovation’, by state and federal governments!) Solid industry knowledge PLUS an effective google search reveals uniqueness or not (eg I know of someone gifted $10k by govt to invent a delivery drone, years after a plethora of overseas companies already had tried & tested models working commercially. To cap it off, they had never worked in any career remotely related to any tech industries or any kind of creativity). Clearly the assessors were absolutely clueless potatoes. Asking other experts for their confidential thoughts may be advisable too; ‘do you know of anyone who has designed xyz?’ If assessors have a solid LinkedIn network, it’s brilliant for this. Know what you know – and know who to ask about the rest!

• READING THE RESPONSES TO QUESTIONS:
• Have the questions been answered thoughtfully (but succinctly) and appear to be open and honest? Or –
• Yes/no bare minimum responses?
• Fashionable jargon – all the latest buzzwords – but lacking convincing substance? AI or handmade plagiarism?
• Lots of waffle to hide a lack of relevance?
• Super slick? Staff from large companies sometimes submit applications written by other staff members who have marketing/communication degrees. Beautifully written, designed to sell, and you won’t even realise you’ve been sold to. But closer scrutiny reveals a lack of heart; no gritty character or coalface experience.
• NEVER FORGET it’s not a creative writing or journalism test. You are to judge real-world substance *not* eloquence. It’s heartbreaking to think on how many of the world’s most creative people have missed out on what they deserved because of their spelling and grammatical errors, or just absence of slick salesmanship of unashamed FIGJAMness. Because so many of the world’s most creative thinkers and problem solvers are not good at writing. The most unimpressively written applications may well be the most deserving and worthwhile recipients.

Assess thoroughly:

Don’t believe the application. Use Google and/or LinkedIn for checks. It’s usually quick to see if the application gells with what already exists online – or not:

• Longevity in the one industry/dedication through tough patches
• If a school leaver – what subjects did they study? Any extra curricular activities? Or have they clearly explained their aspirations and plans? They may have little evidence but have their heart set on it – or – just applying because a teacher suggested it. Read between the lines; look for heart.
• Philanthropic/altruistic personalities – any evidence of them helping others in the past, *without* personal reward? (Always the best people to give opportunities to, as they already have a history of ‘playing it forward’ – so the grant/scholarship ROI is greatly amplified, and long term)
• Career track record – a diverse career may well make them better at what they do, especially if any kind of creativity is involved. ADHD personalities have often had laps doing all kinds of things. But if they’ve worked in a stack of sales positions then moved into the drone industry, for example, there’s a 90%+ chance they’ll abandon ship as soon as a better cash cow walks past. IE their heart is in sales and if grannies are in short supply they’ll be flogging them off to the highest bidder via a roadside stall, and leave the drone industry eating dust.
• Work related posts they’ve written (are they savvy thinkers/thought provoking?)
• Media mentions or their website, etc. It’s usually quick to see if the application agrees with what’s online. If someone has been around for a while but there’s nothing at all online about them/what they do for a living – that’s a ‘storytime’ red flag.

You know some of the applicants?

• The following applies when it’s a panel. If you’re the sole assessor and you have some personal connections who applied mixed with strangers then the task is best handballed on to someone else. This ensures there’s no bias or later accusations of it. But if it is a panel of 3 or more:
• The type of people who volunteer to help assess applications are of course often the same people who encourage other people to apply. How to ensure assessment is 100% above board?
• Firstly – encouraging someone to enter and/or giving advice that is very general in nature or info that is freely available on the application pages – unlikely to give anyone a personal advantage; it just persuaded them to make the effort to enter. Mention a personal connection to organisers but it should be fine to assess what they’ve written, unless you think you can’t be objective
• However – if you helped word an application and/or read it before submission and/or gave them very specific information – notify organisers and the usual is to just assess all the others except those who received this individualised assistance from you.
• I’ve sat on in-person assessment panels and when someone has a personal or business connection with an applicant, they just step out of the room during discussion/decision making re that specific application. (Similar to how local govt is meant to operate.) 
• Factors to remember:
  1) A (diverse) panel is designed to even out various points of view & accidental favouritism or unconscious bias
• 2) The pressure isn’t as great if there’s various categories or enough funding/awards for few people, not just one or two
• 3) If the grant/scholarship or award is annual, applicants can usually reapply

Why being conscientious matters:

• I’ve seen way too much feral assessment and judging by people who did not take it seriously enough. Either do it properly or bow out. Why?
• Receiving a grant or scholarship is NOT just about the money, IF it is given to the right person. For the right person – it is a fabulous confidence boost, a public sign of recognition and faith – it can be a catalyst that helps launch a fabulous world-influencing career, help re-launch a stalled career or embark on a career change, or just enable the recipient to finally step up to the next level, when feeling frustrated and stalled. It can help priceless but unrecognised mentors and role models play it forward so far into the future that the benefits are immeasurable. This IS what it means to the *right* recipients. To those for whom ‘getting lucky’ doesn’t mean much – they are the wrong recipients. I’ve read far too many applications from people who just saw an opportunity to grab some free and easy money, or who are already either earning a stonking salary, can easily claim what they’ve asked for as a tax deduction (affordability isn’t an issue), or in a very high profile position. Or people who feign to help others who in reality never do.
• For the above reasons it continues to frustrate me that almost NO organisers/administrators of funding opportunities of all kinds, include a vital question for *all* applicants: ‘list details of other money/in kind benefits you have received – year, amount, who from, for what (etc).’ NOT because people who have already received ‘are proven to be reliable so a safe bet for more $’ – quite the reverse. Opportunities are always thin on the ground so my personal preference is always to look for people who’ve got the goods but not been gifted a chance to speed ahead. This makes eminent sense and these egalitarian principles are what all Australian opportunities should be based on, but unfortunately often the opposite is true. The already fortunate receive further gifts while others remain stalled and unfairly unrecognised. This happens again and again. Of course if it is an award for previous achievements (usually with little or no money attached, but much appreciated public recognition), it is legit runs on the board that matters (not what someone is ‘gunna’ do in future).

Attributes of a good assessor/judge:

• Care – about the applicants, the industry/subject, fairness and the future
• Prepared to invest some thinking time (& same as everything – the more judging you do the easier it is)
• Enough knowledge and/or quality contacts to accurately and objectively assess
• Not someone who only does things for personal benefits (in cash or kind)

Summary – my method & time spent:

1. I first ensure the organiser/funders aims are clear and publicly stated (if not I run screaming, as results are at the mercy of organiser or funder nonsense whims – IE unfair to entrants)
2. Depending on the judging assessment sheets and the quantity – I prefer to print all applications & quickly write notes as each is read.
3. Then I sort them into piles (definite yes, probably yes, probably no and definitely not)
4. I read back through them all, checking scores are in sync & rejigging
5. I google check vital points – especially that got the successful over the line, to ensure they’re legit (being a touch typist on desktop computer means this is relatively quick and easy for me, but can take time). Story tellers are demoted and under-sellers are promoted.
6. Then if unavoidable I enter results onto a spreadsheet. But if there’s a lot of people, I email the list of definites (in order, if it’s awards), plus a list of also-rans and the definite no’s. It’s usually a waste of time tapping the whole lot into silly spreadsheet squares.
7. I hope for a panellist discussion re any discrepancies, but if not, just wait to hear the end results; but also email organisers with any suggested improvements to ensure the best results & smoothest judging, next time.
8. This all typically takes me between a few hours to a long half day, but I spread it over a few days for best results. Read & sort, next day more scrutiny, third day type them up while checking any points I missed. If it’s a lot of people, lots of money involved, or detailed/long applications – the total time is usually 1 day in total.
9. Printed applications are then shredded, for privacy reasons.
10. NOTE: Typical organiser advice includes: strict word limits for every response, encouraging applicant to use dot points and provide a list of online links eg to LinkedIn, their website, any other social media accounts; plus media stories etc. Saves assessors a heap of time! Lastly – ask applicants *why*.)

Why I like being involved:

• Always interesting! I learn from the applicants and the process. Judging/assessing can be fun. It’s the admin person doing the real grunt work behind the scenes.
• It forces you to do the kind of useful cogitating that we otherwise don’t get around to – eg re the state of the industry, what matters and what doesn’t
• I find it rewarding to help others in the industries I work in and very satisfying to help ensure the genuinely best applicants are recognised. When assessors are able to have a chinwag it’s great to discuss ideas and that can mean changing results for the better.
• I’m often the ‘odd one out’ in a group situation and that = a healthy diversity of ideas and opinions.
• While assessment and judging positions are usually voluntary (unpaid) & there’s not a plethora of hands up, it is recognition of being thought of as experienced and reliable enough to be included.
• I’ve particularly enjoyed helping to assess the US-based Women and Drones annual awards and the International Federation of Agricultural Journalists Star Prize for Photography. But I’ve also enjoyed local photography competition judging just as much. All just human beings doing their best, that thoughtful comments and encouragement can make a positive difference to. We should all chip in to help others in whatever way we can and never forget that countless other people have helped pave the way for us. It’s also about making Australia a better place in future, for me.

PS:

Like all posts, as soon as I click ‘publish’, additions and clarifications spring to mind – so this will be improved and added to in future.

Feel free to share with anyone – but by linking to this whole post; not copying any of this text or quoting it without a reference to the source. While I write posts like this to help others, I chase thieves with a cudgel.

The post Assessment & judging panels – what is involved? first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

Or you have a drone but you:

• Want to get better photos or videos
• Have drone hardware or software problems
• Crashed & want to know how to avoid a repeat occurrence
• Have unanswered career/business questions
• Go boating or travelling & need tips, to avoid headaches
• Would like knowledge gaps filled so you become a much better drone pilot

I run unique, practical & comprehensive drone masterclasses across Australia via the Rural Drone Academy.

This drone training will give you a solid base for useful, enjoyable, safe & legal recreational or commercial drone flying and a leg-up to another level if you already have a drone. The time covered is usually one full day but this can be shorter or longer, as required. Full day drone workshops are well worth travelling to attend – a huge amount of good information is covered.

Why is this drone training unique?

I focus on aspects that other drone trainers aren’t covering and include a plethora of practical tips.  I’m not a fan of jargon but ‘holistic’ is really the most apt description for all the workshops I run.  I’ve attended many drone training sessions in Australia and overseas; this has enabled me to learn and also means I know what else is on offer. I run drone training that is practical and accurate; what I would love to have attended myself when I was starting out as this would have saved me a massive amount of time, energy and money. To obtain the knowledge I have, I’ve had to do a lot of training in a wide variety of places and spend thousands of dollars and fly drones for many hours. In just one or two days you get a condensed summary of what I’ve learned over many years.

I run these drone workshops because nothing quite like this is being run by anyone else, anywhere. It’s why I receive invitations to present in other countries as well as across Australia.

Fiona Lake in 2019 with other invited speakers plus attendees, at a drone precision ag conference in Nanjing, China

DRONE TOPICS:

Standard basic drone topics usually covered; A-Z of everything a drone pilot needs to know:

• Buying drones: choosing between drone models; the real pros & cons of the different features to consider in relation to your specific purposes, & where best to buy
• Buying drone accessories: what do you need & what is a waste of money?
• Vital drone laws every pilot must know, why these rules exist, and where to get reliable information
• Safe flight & problem avoidance – theoretically no drones should ever crash – how to avoid crashing and what to do when it happens
• Drone software difficulties – tips on how to conquer the inevitable glitches (based on years of problem solving experience)
• Image & flight data admin – what isn’t covered in any other drone workshops (it’ll save you a lot of head-scratching & accidentally deleting data files you didn’t know existed)
• Travel – airline transport information & overseas drone rules
• Info sources – where to obtain reliable drone information; plus which online drone groups to join and which to avoid

Extra drone topics included, if relevant on the day:

• Career & business opportunities for drone pilots – what is realistic now & what the future is likely to be
• Very interesting but rarely discussed related topics – some vital points re thermal drones, solar weather, machine learning, AI, ground robots and what the future holds.
• Children & drones – what are the benefits of helping kids fly drones & what every parent must know
• Summary of Australia’s CASA drone pilot certification (Remote Pilot Certificate, Aeronautical Radio Operators Certificate, Remote Operators Certificate. Plus info on night flight training). What is involved in becoming a certified drone pilot? Who should obtain their licence and who need not bother? What are the pros & cons of certification? How not to waste your time and money if it’s not your best option.

Specialist drone-related topics, if arranged (depending on the specific interests of participants):

Agriculture:

• What are drones actually being used for on farms and cattle stations, in Australia and elsewhere?  Are they really worth using, or not?
• What kinds of other ag tech are better for some purposes?
• Mapping basics, and spray drones – an introduction to the 3 most common types of spray drones, the advantages of spray drones over conventional spraying methods, licencing requirements and operator considerations.
• Mustering livestock with drones, finding ferals, and using thermal cameras. Includes best practice tips plus mistakes to avoid
• Why should everyone in agriculture consider owning a drone – what are the side benefits – and what does the future look like?
• Ag drone workshops are often hosted by local, state or federal government departments, producer organisations and community groups.

Aerial photography:

• Taking quality still photographs from the air is a huge step up from taking good photographs on the ground. I cover photography fundamentals, what makes aerial photography different from ground photography and how to create stand-out images with drones.
• Aerial cinematography; a summary or in detail – depending on participant interest and available time.
• Social media and small business tips are included in 2 day drone photography workshops, depending on participant interest. Topics include copyright information, watermarking, what not to put online, and how to take and select images for particular purposes, such as advocacy or campaigning. Plus a raft of small business and marketing fundamentals. Including experience-based info on what to charge/how to make money from aerial photography – if relevant to participants.
• My focus is on all the useful topics that 1) other photography workshop presenters are not covering; a plethora of tips that are useful for experienced photographers as well as people just starting out; & 2) you will not find online.
• Participants get the best value from aerial photography workshops if a) already using manual camera settings on the ground or are b) already trained/experienced drone pilots. Learning the technicalities of photography and technicalities of drone flying at the same time is do-able but not efficient. However participants with all skill levels are welcome and find my aerial photography workshops very useful.
• Drone photography workshops are sometimes funded by arts bodies. EG the Regional Arts Development Fund (RADF), in Queensland.

Topics are practical and based on experience – I cut to the chase and as I do not sell drones or run drone licencing courses my advice is completely independent & objective. This is rare.

2018 drone flight demonstration at Kooroorinya Ladies Day, North Queensland (drone photography). I run workshops in all areas – nowhere is too remote and no group is too small. If participants are keen and it is economically viable, I will come.

WHAT BRAND OF DRONES ARE DISCUSSED?

I use DJI drones as examples simply because DJI is the brand participants are most likely to own.  However the same principles apply to all drones, so this workshop is relevant to all.

WHO IS SUITED TO THESE WORKSHOPS?

Age range:

• Divided into two age groups – around secondary school age (below 16), and school-leavers upwards.  I’ve had people in their 80s attend workshops and sometimes they’ve been the keenest in the room.
• Under sixteens welcome at all-age groups if accompanied by a parent (family discount available – enquire if you’d like details)

Experience & background:

• Relevant to city & town and rural & remote residents
• All levels of experience. These workshops are very comprehensive and include useful info for experienced pilots as well as anyone new to drones.  If you have quite a bit of hands-on experience but haven’t undergone any drone training, you will be surprised by how much else there is to learn and make use of. Licenced drone pilots have attended my full-day training sessions and all have said it was well worthwhile for them to attend, despite their already high level of experience.  The drone industry is huge and super fast moving – there is always more for everyone to learn and update.
• Both recreational & commercial drone pilots will benefit, as the principles are identical. I run a small business and drones are an integral part of it, so this workshop includes practical first-hand advice.
• Industries – my work involves professional photography, writing, social media, agriculture & travel – however the basic content of these drone workshops applies to every drone use.

Fiona Lake, catch-landing a P4P drone in 2018, near Lucinda’s sugar terminal conveyor – the longest in the southern hemisphere. (Photographer: Cheryl Robertson)

WHAT WILL YOU GET OUT OF THIS DRONE TRAINING?

Drone operators with hands-on experience but who haven’t undergone any training:

• A lot of unanswered queries will be addressed plus a myriad of time and money saving tips on things that you didn’t know where a thing!  Many workshop attendees have said ‘I had no idea how much was involved in flying drones’
• Tips to make your drone flying more enjoyable and efficient, plus business ideas if you’re thinking of putting your drone to work
• If you’ve crashed a drone and don’t know why, this workshop may hold the answer for you and prevent a repeat disaster

New drone operators, you will:

• Feel confident enough to choose the drone & accessories best suited to your specific purposes (& understand if you need to trade-in what you already have)
• Know what can and can’t be done with a drone & where to go to get future queries answered reliably
• Understand the basic aviation laws that every drone pilot must know, where to get detailed information, & know how to keep up-to-date with changes
• Be able to reduce the likelihood of hardware problems and able to solve most software headaches faster
• Have a good idea of the systems that can easily be implemented to help build your confidence & ensure successful flights.

Specialist drone uses:

• Confident with ground photography, but you’ve discovered how much more difficult it is to create stand-out aerial images? I show you how.
• You want to use drones on a farm or cattle station but you don’t know where to start? You’ll find out what drone will best suit the use you have in mind, where to buy it, how to set it up – and importantly – what drones aren’t useful for (plus other ag tech that is more suitable for some jobs).  Many people in ag have been sold drones that are more expensive than required or simply unsuitable for the job you had in mind. If you’ve got an expensive paperweight lurking in your shed or farm office, after attending you’ll know whether it’s worth reviving or needs replacing.

Parents:

• You’ll have a template for ensuring your children fly drones safely & legally.
• Advice on the best drones to buy for students (eg drones that can be programmed); saving you money and ensuring maximum learning.

Burdekin Falls Dam, North Queensland, 2019 (drone photography). Aerial photography has existed for more than a century – but drones have now made it relatively cheap and easy for anyone to see the world from above.  Though drones look like toys they’re exceedingly complex machines and understanding them results in better drone pilots & better images.

TIME, DAY, LOCATION:

Drone workshops for general users, or farm/cattle station use:

Usually one full day because:

• We can cover a useful level of detail, have interesting discussions and a laugh along the way.
• Attendees are able to meet one another & converse during the breaks – additional learning plus sharing ideas with people who share a common interest and background. This can be the great basis for a mutually supportive, local network of drone pilots.
• A full day of good quality content means it’s worth travelling to attend. I know how frustrating it is to find a workshop which looks good except that it only runs for 2 hours and just skims the surface – leaving you with more questions. Short events are not enough substance to justify time and money travelling a long distance to attend.
• Unless I have to travel to another event straight away, conversations can continue long after the official conclusion time (we’ll often be outdoors flying drones at the end of the day). This means those with specific or additional questions can extract maximum results from the day.
• There is easily enough ag drone content to run for two productive days however most ag drone workshop attendees prefer training to be run over one day not two.

Drone photography workshops:

Two consecutive days are usual. Much better than just one, because:

• Drones and photography are two big topics in their own right. A lot has to be culled if squeezed into just one day and it’s a lot more challenging for participants to remember all the useful points. Information overload is real!
• More time means less hurried and more discussion – sharing ideas, challenges and topics such as ethics (not just laws). These conversations are often highlights for participants.
• Topics can be mixed in with some practice exercises and participants are able to fly their own drones at the end of the first day/early the next, which often brings up more questions to ask.
• Depending on participant interest and time constraints, often dinner is shared after the first day – with like minded people with a diversity of backgrounds.

What day & time?

• Photography and general workshops are usually on the weekend, and ag drone workshops on a weekday.  (But can be on any day preferred by drone workshop hosts.)
• Usually daylight hours – typically: I set up at around 7.30am; participants to arrive from 8.30am for a 9am sharp start; finish at 5pm with provision for one-on-one conversations to continue on afterwards, for as long as people have questions.

Location:

• When feasible, held on the edge of town where there are no flight restrictions, so drones can be flown outside the building. But basic hands-on flight skills are simple and just require hours of practice to improve. So hands-on flying is not the most productive way to spend our time together.

How to book:

• Most of the workshops I present are hosted and organised from start to finished by others, so booking methods vary.
• Ticketing for the drone workshops I organise myself, goes through Eventbrite, for simplicity’s sake.

What to bring to the drone workshop:

1. A mobile phone or tablet with a link to ‘OK2Fly’ added to the home screen – not vital, but desirable.
2. A laptop & card reader for checking drone image files & other drone admin – not essential, but useful for drone photography workshops:
3. A drone, if you have one – you are always welcome to bring it as we usually run through drone ‘anatomy’ so you can check yours out at the same time. Other workshop attendees may not have seen your model of drone so may also be interested in it. NOTE: Depending on the time available, the location and the size of the group – we may not be flying drones at all as hands-on skill is a minor part of flying drones. To illustrate this – while CASA does require Australian drone pilots to do a simple flight test before licencing, the FAA does not require American drone pilots to undergo a flight test at all. Because it is knowledge & organisation that makes a good drone pilot.  Flying is a technical skill, like riding a bike, and best practiced in your own time. Our time together is best spent learning about the brains of the operation, not exercising motor skills.
   

• If I’ve driven to the drone workshop I usually have all my drones, accessories, cases, manuals etc. However when I’ve had to fly to workshops, the display quantity is reduced due to luggage limits.

Fiona Lake, Night Flight drone training in Las Vegas, USA, 2017. Night flying involves a much greater level of skill and planning and it is illegal in most countries unless the drone operator is fully licenced and has the required permission.  There are specific reasons why flying drones at night requires training, and I can run through these if anyone has a particular interest.

WHY ATTEND MY DRONE TRAINING?

I’m one of Australia’s best qualified & most experienced drone pilots:

• Fully licenced by CASA (Remote Pilot Licence & Remote Operators Certificate).
• Night flight certified (undertaken specialist training in the US, twice).
• I’ve received repeat invitations to present in-person at drone conferences on 4 continents, including the largest drone events in Europe, China and the USA.
• I’ve run drone workshops & presentations in a variety of locations in every Australian state & territory; from conference presentations to one hour drone introductory sessions and comprehensive training over two consecutive days.
• I have owned and flown a number of different drones and have undertaken many hours of drone flight in every Australian state and territory.
• Won a number of awards & received peer recognition – including, the Industry Education & Safety award from Australia’s largest drone organisation, AAUS; winner of the International Federation of Agricultural Journalists ‘Star Prize’ for photography (with entries from more than 30 countries); named by Chicago-based Women and Drones as one of ten ‘Women to Watch in UAS’ (unmanned aviation systems); ‘Rural Drone Academy’ – AgriFutures Rural Woman of the Year finalist for Queensland, one of the Queensland Government’s ‘Community Digital Champions’ & Queensland Government ‘100 Faces of Small Business’; and winner of the Queensland Rural Press Club ‘production’ category of their annual photography awards.
• More than 35 years of professional aerial photography experience.

ARE THESE FULL-DAY DRONE MASTERCLASSES WORTH TRAVELLING A LONG DISTANCE TO ATTEND?

• If this kind of practical and detailed drone training had been available on the other side of the planet when I was starting out, I would have jumped on a plane to attend because it would have been well worth it. It would have saved me so much money and time! This is the quality I provide for you – a condensed summary of what I’ve spent years learning at a multitude of events across the world.
• After the official end of the day there is usually the option to continue conversations over dinner at a nearby restaurant.  Sometimes everyone has to rush off, but on other occasions the icing on the cake of events is the great conversations after the official conclusion. It’s often where you find the keenest people and can pick up an extra gem of information, via a late question you ask or someone else asks. The most creative thoughts can appear after the dust has settled.
• Training & direct costs are usually tax deductible if drone usage is genuinely involved in producing your current year’s income. But do check with your accountant as everyone’s situation differs.

I live in North Queensland but have lived and worked across 3 Australian states and taken aerial photographs in every state. Having a wide variety of interests fosters participant interaction and makes the drone training day a lot more entertaining for everyone.

WHEN & WHERE WILL I BE RUNNING THE NEXT DRONE WORKSHOPS?

• Very occasionally I organise a workshop here in Townsville but usually I’m presenting at events hosted by others, a long distance from home. Local hosts are best as local knowledge helps ensure inclusion of the most relevant content and best timing, and the most effective marketing – reaching those who are most likely to attend and benefit. Events can be self-funded by attendees or partly or wholly funded by grants.  (Whatever kind of event is being run, I don’t recommend running any that are completely cost-free, as even a small charge upon booking helps ensure participant commitment to attending, thus making catering & other arrangements efficient.)
• As soon as events become definite they are listed on this ‘Business hours & events’ blog post.
• Don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions regarding hosting a drone workshop in your area – either general interest or focussed on agricultural or photographic use – or attending.  I travel all over the place, presenting workshops, training and keynote speaking.  It is busy, so best to plan in advance as much as possible.

To date I’ve presented workshops for the general public and specific groups; funded and/or managed by:

1. Local councils & government departments – relating to digital upskilling & education, health & wellbeing, natural resource management & agriculture
2. Arts organisations
3. Ag industry bodies
4. Rural Women’s organisations

If you ask around and can’t find many or any locals interested in attending a professional-standard drone workshop – then that suggests that in the near future there won’t be enough demand in your area, and your only option is to travel to attend training.  I’ve travelled thousands of kilometres to undertake specialist training – if you’re keen, travelling to good quality training is the only option. The upside of not finding many/any locals interested in a drone workshop – if you upskill now you’ll then be the best informed or one of the best informed drone pilots in your region. Because at present there’s a massive amount of hot air but relatively few people with genuinely comprehensive drone experience and knowledge. Being the best informed in your region gives you an obvious advantage in terms of running a business, creating better aerial photographs and mentoring others, as interest increases.

Fiona Lake, Birdsville cattle station drone demo in 2016. One-to-one personally tailored drone training is also available, in North Queensland and any regions I visit.

Drone information blog posts

• I’ve written a number of posts containing information I wish I could have found at the outset. The drone topics below are either not covered by anyone else at all, incompletely or inaccurately.
• All the information in these posts is included in Rural Drone Academy training, to some degree, but with the addition of many other useful topics, entertaining examples, participant Q & A’s and networking.

1. Rural Drone Academy workshops & training – want to lift your flying up to another level, solve some drone issues, or you need a hand to gets started? These workshops are useful for all skill levels, ages and backgrounds.
2. Next workshops plus previous events – upcoming events you can attend. Previous events are also listed, which will give you an idea of the regions covered, themes and the diversity organisations hosting them.
3. Comments from participants – forthright opinions from people who have attended drone sessions held in four states.
4. The principles of drone safety & laws – essential reading for every drone pilot. Accompanied by impressive ‘fail’ stories, during Rural Drone Academy training.
5. How to set up a drone business – how to steam ahead – use time, energy & money to maximum effect – and avoid pitfalls. Included in drone workshops in detail, if applicable to participant interests.
6. What is the best drone to buy for a beginner?  Objective information to help you decide. The internet is full of drones that have hardly been flown because they didn’t suit the buyer’s purpose. Don’t join them!
7. What is the best drone to buy? Comprehensive information on the most common consumer models to help drone pilots upgrading or seeking a drone for a specific task.
8. Buy a drone now, or wait for the next model? Information on previous drone model releases.
9. Is a Crystal Sky screen worth buying?  The pros and cons compared to using phones and tablets as screens, from an objective point of view.

If you are interested in attending Rural Drone Academy training don’t hesitate to contact me by email or ring the business-hours phone number listed below.

PLEASE NOTE: As applies to the rest of this website – the content on this page is protected by copyright.  This post was originally written in 2019 and last updated in October 2024.

Rural Drone Academy training covers the A to Z fundamentals of what a drone pilot needs to know in order to fly safely, productively and enjoyably. Drone workshops are based on a wealth of drone and small business experience, with agricultural and photography knowledge informing the additional topics offered.

Additional information on the workshops & presentations I run is included in the ‘Services’ section of the website.  As well as 1 and 2 day comprehensive drone workshops, I’m often asked to present 1-2 hour drone introductory sessions. I travel widely so don’t hesitate to ask if you’d like a drone workshop for the public, a local group, organisation or business in your area.

And if you know someone who is really hard to buy a present for – a drone training session could be the best present you’ve ever given them!

The post Drone workshops & training first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

If one of your drone batteries burns your own house down, that’s one thing – but starting a fire on a plane full of passengers is next level disaster. The fire itself is of course an issue but so is the poisonous gas. 

A detailed ‘travelling with drones’ section is included in drone photography workshops. But I’ve written this summary re taking them onto aircraft because questions repeatedly arise online and there’s a lot of misinformation around. Doing the wrong thing could result in a lipo battery fire on an airborne plane. I don’t want to be on a plane with a battery fire, or anyone else I know!  These fires cannot be simply extinguished with water.

One disaster involving a drone battery fire on passenger aircraft, and it’s entirely possible that drone batteries will be banned from all passenger aircraft. So it’s in all our interests to ensure safety and not encourage anyone to have a ‘what can I get away with’ attitude.

The following practical tips and aviation industry rules apply to the most commonly used consumer drone batteries (DJI brand drones, weighing less than 2kg) and most airlines. But there are variations between airlines so you should check the ‘carriage of dangerous goods’ specifications listed on the website of the airline you’re flying with, as battery quantities and size limits will be explained there. And you definitely do need to check the airline website if you’re wanting to take more than several batteries, or some which power drones weighing more than 2kg, and if flying internationally. Large capacity lipo batteries are not permitted on passenger aircraft at all.

It is also a good idea to print out the airline specifications and carry this info with you through the baggage screening area, in case staff are uncertain, especially if there may be a language barrier. This particularly applies if you’re carrying anything other than garden-variety DJI consumer drones.

NOTE – Airlines with unusual drone transportation rules:

There are 2 airlines with exceptional rules that I know of , at present, but there may be more – best to check their website specs prior to flying.

• Emirates – drone batteries but no drones in carry-on baggage (thanks, Casey Neistat)
• Wizz – no drones of any size at all (not in carry-on or checked baggage). This is probably because their insurance does not cover the carriage of drones. Hopefully this policy does not spread…but it might. And bound too, if there’s more drone battery fires on planes.

Here’s what you need to do when taking a drone and drone batteries on a plane:

1. Lipo batteries that are in suspect condition must never be taken on a plane. Some issues are obvious but some are not visible just by looking at the outside. Batteries that must not travel includes any that:

• Are swollen or have a nasty smell
• Have had a hard knock eg crashed or dropped hard (potentially causing internal damage)
• Have been immersed in water
• Not functioning properly/misbehaving in any way (EG sudden charge drops when in use, or refusing to charge)
• Unbalanced cells (checkable via the app)
• Old and/or well used. EG batteries more than 3 years old or with more than 200 cycles – as age and use increases the risk of malfunction. (Most of my drone batteries have had to retire before 80 charges – longevity depends on how you use them plus other factors, discussed in drone workshops.)

Suspect drone batteries must not be put into ordinary rubbish bins, they should be taken to a specialty battery retailer as they usually have recycle bins especially for batteries. Right now airport security bag scanning staff do not check drone batteries for swelling or other visible damage – and they should be, as most drone operators don’t understand the risk of combustion and risk indicators to look for.

2. Reduce the drone battery charge to approx 40-65% (the same level most sub 2kg DJI drone batteries will auto-discharge to if left unused past the default period; usually set at 4- 10 days). Of course it’s best to discharge batteries a day or two beforehand, so you don’t run short of time or aren’t able to fly them to discharge. Discharging is done to help maintain battery health (discussed in some drone manuals).

3. Pack the drone batteries so they are protected from hard knocks and nothing will touch the terminals and cause a short. Best option? ‘Lipo’ bags. These are bags made of fire-retardant material so they have a dual purpose. They aren’t perfect and there is varying quality, but they’re better than nothing. The next best option is to carry the batteries in a hard case with individual niches in the foam to fit each battery and keep them separate. (Not usually so convenient for carry-on, however.) Next option (third because it is bulky) – carry them in the original box they came in. The last resort – tape over the battery terminals. Why is taping terminals a last resort? Well who wants tape residue left near battery terminals? Particularly relevant in hot climates, where tape and gum part company more quickly.

4. All lipo batteries MUST be carried in passenger hand luggage EXCEPT that it is fine to leave a battery in the drone itself, which can be packed into checked luggage. Cabin temperatures are maintained at a level which is comfortable for passengers, usually in the low 20s, which just happens to be ideal for drone batteries. Whereas even in the midst of Australia’s summer, at the typical airline cruising altitude of 35,000+ feet, the air temperature is well below zero (celsius). Sometimes luggage comes out of the hold feeling very cold! The second reason for carrying batteries into the cabin is that a burning battery will be more quickly discovered and dealt with than one packed in the hold in a suitcase.

5. Most airlines also permit the drones themselves to be in carry on luggage but there are exceptions, EG Emirates airlines. If flying on a smaller airline you should check your airline’s specific instructions re baggage limits plus baggage sizes as it’s not good to arrive at the departure gate to be told that what you were going to carry on has to be taken away and stashed in the hold, as it’s likely you didn’t pack it securely enough to survive busy baggage handlers.

HOT TIP: Always pack all your drone batteries into the one carry-on case and ensure they’re easy to take out for inspection. When about to put your bags through the security scanners, take all of your drone batteries out of your case and put them into a tray on their own (still inside the lipo or plastic bags), and tell the scanning staff that they are drone batteries. Doing this will save security staff having to ask you what’s in the bag after the batteries show up on screen, unpacking your bag and sending it all back through the scanner a second time. It makes the job of security staff much easier and the people waiting in the screening queue will thank you too! (They may tell you not to bother doing this but if scan operators are on the job they’ll pick the batteries up on screen, then go through the whole business of opening the bag, taking the batteries out, and sending it back through. So explain to them why you’re doing it. It’ll save them time!)

Note: airline specifications can change overnight, in response to safety concerns.

The best drone case for transporting a drone might not be the best drone for when you’re using it at the other end. I’ve tested most options and run through the pros & cons during drone workshops. I find drone hard cases much more efficient to use when I’m working, but all my drones and batteries travel on the plane in my hand luggage (soft-sided bags).  I often fly on regional airlines with smaller and lighter carry-on luggage limits – one of the reasons why all my drones weigh less than 2kg.

Where can lipo drone battery bags be bought?

Lipo bags can be purchased from good shops that sell drones, EG camera shops as well as drone specialist retailers. Please try to buy as local as possible, because that helps ensure retailers have drone items on hand in case you need something in a hurry. It also helps keep some of your money in your own community and locals employed.

Lipo bags for drone batteries feel like unremarkable vinyl, but the material is fire resistant. It’s good practice to keep unused batteries in lipo bags at all times, or better still – in a hard case with an airtight seal. Note that bags are not of course a perfect solution and there are varying degrees of quality/effectiveness. Ordinary fire extinguishers do not put lipo battery fires out – lack of oxygen does. Why some people keep a bucket of sand handy, where they normally charge their batteries.

The best travel cases & bags for drones:

The options are standard bags and generic packaging material or cases made specifically for drones:

• Moulded shell cases, one for the drone & one for the controller.
• Hard cases with foam cut-outs, which will fit all or most of your drone gear in.
• Drone backpacks.
• The small bags that come standard with DJI ‘fly more’ packages. (Mostly useless as they won’t fit in all the gear that most drone operators end up with. I cut the dividers out and use mine to carry cords & filters, mostly.)

I’ve used all kinds of drone bags and discuss the pros and cons of each during workshops. Having the best bag for the job really does make a big difference to the longevity and safety of your gear – plus ease of use. If it’s a hassle to get your packed gear out and use it, it’s likely that you’ll use it less – and regret what you missed capturing, later on.

Travelling with drones on planes – I travel with a lot of gear when doing commission photography work or running drone workshops. (This image was taken several years ago when recharging in a hotel). My first task on arrival at my destination is tipping everything out, charging all batteries and repacking it for work. Then before flying home, tipping it all out again and repacking for carrying safely on a passenger aircraft. Yes it is very time consuming & ensuring batteries are depleted before flying is uber tedious too.

Battery management & safety:

The drone workshops I run always include a battery management & safety section. The summary is:  treat lipo batteries with care, read the manufacturer’s manual for your model and the information leaflet that is packed with batteries. They are a fire hazard if mismanaged, and they’ll last a lot longer if looked after well. The probability that one of your drone batteries will burn your house down is low but if it happened it would be potentially catastrophic. Remember also that burning lipo batteries give off toxic fumes. Store them in a well ventilated area where you can keep an eye on them and don’t ignore an off smell.

Do we want drone batteries to be banned from passenger planes?

One fire on board a plane and that’s what is likely to happen – no more drone batteries on planes, anywhere. Remember the Samsung Note 7 phone? The Samsung Note 7 was banned due to the fire risk. Hoverboards are banned by most airlines for the same reason.

So – please do the right thing when transporting drone batteries and encourage others to do likewise.

Drone courses & workshops:

I run drone courses and workshops around Australia. When dates and details are confirmed, they are listed on the Next Events page.

If you found this post useful, you’ll really enjoy the drone workshops.  If you’d like to be notified if a drone training session is held in your area, send me a message.

Drone information blog posts

• I’ve written a number of posts containing information I wish I could have found at the outset. The drone topics below are either not covered by anyone else at all -or incompletely/inaccurately.
• This is the kind of practical information that is included in Rural Drone Academy training – plus a lot more details, entertaining examples, participant Q & A’s and networking.

1. Rural Drone Academy workshops & training – want to lift your flying up to another level, solve some drone issues, or you need a hand to gets started? These workshops are useful for all skill levels, ages and backgrounds.
2. Next workshops plus previous events – upcoming events you can attend. Previous events are also listed, which will give you an idea of the regions covered, themes and the diversity organisations hosting them.
3. Comments from participants – forthright opinions from people who have attended drone sessions held in four states.
4. The principles of drone safety & laws – essential reading for every drone pilot. Accompanied by impressive ‘fail’ stories, during Rural Drone Academy training.
5. How to set up a drone business – how to steam ahead – use time, energy & money to maximum effect – and avoid pitfalls. Included in drone workshops in detail, if applicable to participant interests.
6. What is the best drone to buy for a beginner?  Objective information to help you decide. The internet is full of drones that have hardly been flown because they didn’t suit the buyer’s purpose. Don’t join them!
7. What is the best drone to buy? Comprehensive information on the most common consumer models to help drone pilots upgrading or seeking a drone for a specific task.
8. Is a Crystal Sky screen worth buying?  The pros and cons compared to using phones and tablets as screens, from an objective point of view.
9. How to pack drones and drone batteries for plane travel. (Information on this page)

If you are interested in attending Rural Drone Academy training don’t hesitate to contact me by email or ring the business-hours phone number listed below.

PLEASE NOTE: As applies to the rest of this website – the content on this page is protected by copyright.  This post was originally written in January 2021 & last updated in August 2024.

The post How to pack drones and drone batteries for travel on a plane first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

There is very little publicly available Australian information on what trees withstand cyclonic winds well and which don’t.  This is despite copious studies being made of areas hit hard by cyclones – for example Darwin after cyclone Tracy and Innisfail after cyclone Larry.  There is some good American information on what trees and shrubs stand up to hurricanes there, including a ‘Top 10 best trees to survive a hurricane’ but naturally these list trees commonly grown in the southern U.S., not Australia.  (Live oaks seem to top all the U.S. lists of trees that stand up to strong winds well.)  But there were two familiar trees on the U.S. lists.  One is the Crepe Myrtle, which are commonly grown in Australia.  Though they are native to Japan and China (not Australia or America) they apparently survive cyclones and hurricanes very well – although it must be said they don’t usually grow very high, in Australia anyway.  (It’s easy to survive a strong wind if you’re shorter than everyone else.).   The other is a species of eucalypt grown in the southern U.S. which is presumably an Australian native, and unsurprisingly, it is listed as coping badly with strong winds.  Date palms and cabbage palms are also listed as faring well in hurricanes.

Points to remember, when choosing trees, palms and bushes to plant in cyclone or hurricane prone regions:

-  Smaller leaves offer less wind resistance than large leaves.  However locally indigenous trees with large leaves usually shed their leaves early on in a cyclone, so the branches have less pressure on them.  Big trees with large leaves that aren’t easily shed, are under a lot more pressure from strong winds.

– Trees with branches arranged in clear layers allow the wind to pass through above and below each layer, relatively unimpeded.  Sea Almond trees are the best north Queensland example of this natural layering.

– Top heavy trees or palms – i.e. with very weighty heads compared to trunks and root systems – are a no-no.  The plant that deserves to sit up the top of the ‘don’t-plant in cyclone areas’ list is the Queen palm.  Why grow these when there are so many other palms that are so much better?

– Naturally flexible trees survive much better than those that are brittle and prone to cracking rather than bending.  The trunks and branches of young trees are often more flexible and survive better than old trees, however the former are more likely to be blown over if the root system hasn’t become sufficiently established.  Peltophorum trees are the trees I’d put up the top of the brittle-branch list – there wouldn’t be a single one in town that hasn’t lost a branch or two or a whole lot more – and any over middle age are full of scars from previous amputations. However – they rarely blow over and the trunks remain intact.

-The ground is often waterlogged by the time cyclonic force winds arrive.  Trees with a tap root or a deep root system are obviously far less likely to be blown over than species with shallow root systems.  Different species produce different root systems however soil type/situation also has a big bearing on the strength of the root system.  For example, trees planted in shallow topsoil which is underlaid by rock or dense clay, have difficulty establishing deep roots, just as trees planted in deep sand have nothing firm to grip onto.  Paperbarks live in the middle of northern rivers with deep sand but they send their roots very deep. You can tinker with the top layers of soil and make it ideal for small plants and bushes, but soil-tinkering is a waste of time when it comes to big trees because their roots need to spread such a long distance across and below, to be securely anchored during winds of more than 200kph.  In fact surface soil-tinkering helps foster shallow roots. If you want to grow huge trees and you’re dwelling on the side of a granite hill, you’re going to have to move to an area with deeper, more suitable soil – unless you’ve chosen a species that will happily send roots into cracks & anchor like a barnacle. Rock figs top this list.  Otherwise – be prepared to kiss your trees goodbye when a strong cyclone arrives. Check out what else is growing near your house: What age are the trees?  IE have they been through a category 2 or 3  cyclone? And a lot of rain before & during the high wind? If not – they’re totally untested.

– Naturally, trees indigenous to hurricane and cyclone prone areas tend to fare well by comparison to trees species from other regions and other countries.  If you’re considering growing something that is native to an area that doesn’t get cyclonic winds, check it out carefully first.

From Townsville observations after cyclone Yasi, I’ve been developing my own list of trees and palms commonly grown in northern Australian coastal towns that seemed to survive cyclones relatively well.

So what commonly grown trees and palms in northern Australia seem to do well or not so well in cyclones?

Common mango trees:

If trees could laugh, they’d be splitting their sides.  Much maligned by fashion victims who prefer a backyard as pristine as their white-tiled loungeroom, they have been cut down in their droves.  ‘They drop too many leaves’; ‘they drop too much fruit’; ‘they attract too many fruit bats’ etc are the reasons given.  But, thankfully, plenty still remain in and around Townsville.  And of all the trees here, they seemed to have fared best after Cyclone Yasi  – 99% look like nothing has happened, with only a few suffering a broken branch or two.  Best of all, mango trees obviously offer great protection from airborne missiles.  Mango trees are still dotted all around Townsville.

Tamarind trees:

Tamarinds are another ‘old fashioned’ tree that you rarely see planted now.  Providing extremely dense (& cool) shade, they drop lots of fine leaves and of course tamarind pods, and being so extremely shady, absolutely nothing will ever grow under a tamarind tree.  So they aren’t popular with the OCD gardener brigade either.  Like the mango trees, Townsville’s tamarind trees look like nothing has happened to disturb their peace over the last couple of weeks – I haven’t seen a single broken branch.   Adult Tamarind trees line the road side of Rossiter Park in Love Lane and the soccer field on the corner of Balls Lane and Ross River Road, in Mundingburra.

Paperbarks:

Popular suburban nature strip trees through the 1970’s, particularly, there are a lot of huge paperbark trees in Townsville suburbs settled in the 1960s and 70s.  I watched ours during the peak wind gusts of cyclone Yasi, and they were hardly even moving.  When the wind gusts were getting up over 100kph they shed the thick outer layers of paperbark, and they dropped fine twigs and leaves, but when the wind stopped the trees actually looked like they’d just been to a flash hairdressers and come out with a wedding quality hairdo – i.e. they looked tidier and healthier than before they were wind blasted.  As someone reminded me, their sheer strength is not surprising, given that they line the banks of massive seasonal rivers such as the Burdekin and Mitchell – often living right in the riverbed, and not just withstanding a torrent of wet season floodwater, but copping floating logs etc being caught up in their branches, yet still remaining upright.  Paperbarks look soft but they are incredibly tough trees.  There are lots of solitary, mature paperbarks scattered through Townsville’s older suburbs, plus younger plantings, such as the beautiful grove of young paperbarks near the corner of Kennedy and Mitchell Streets in North Ward.

Leichardt trees:

Leichardt trees are sometimes called ‘Leichardt pines’ due to the similar shape of mature trees.  However they are not of course related to pine trees.  Like paperbarks, Leichardt trees are often found growing along creek and riverbanks in north Queensland.  Large leaved, the round fruit attracts a lot of birds.  I have been surprised to see how well Leichardt trees coped in the cyclone – it seems most lost a lot of leaves early on, thus having to deal with less pressure from the wind.  Some have lost small branches but most appear to be remarkably unscathed.  The best Townsville example of just how tough these native trees are, is the Leichardt tree just downstream of Aplin’s Weir in Mundingburra.   This tree has it’s roots down amongst the rocks and takes the full force of any water pouring out of Ross River Dam and the full force of any wind howling up the river, and it looks as happy as a pig in mud.  Unfortunately, Leichardt trees are hard to grow from seed and difficult to obtain from nurseries. *Postscript – unfortunately the council chopped this beautiful survivor down, a few years after cyclone Yasi. There are still some excellent, mature specimens along the drain running through Anderson Park.

Raintrees:

I’m not sure whether to list raintrees as faring well or faring badly.  However, given that raintrees are easily the largest Townsville trees (spread combined with height), they really deserve to be in the done-well category.   They had their heads stuck up way above any other vegetation, and the older raintrees are absolutely massive trees!  Many have broken branches and some have been destroyed.  But other huge and very old raintrees, have very little damage at all.  And they have done a sterling job of protecting whatever is immediately downwind of them.  Studying raintree damage throughout town would yield a lot of interesting information about wind patterns and the relationship with other nearby objects, and the influence of how healthy each specific tree was (influenced by water availability and soil types, etc).  Because some raintrees have been hard hit while others have done well and obviously there’s concrete reasons as to why this is.  The natural shape of the tree and quality of any pruning that has been done, are clearly influential factors too.  There are quite a few solitary and grouped raintrees around Townsville.  For example in Pioneer Park, on Riverway Drive opposite the Willows Shopping centre (Kirwan), and the park on Brownhill Street (Mundingburra).

Sea Almond trees  (Terminalia catappa)

Sea almond trees are native to the area and I love them because of their layered growth habit, large leaves and the hordes of black cockatoos attracted to the seed feast.  They did well or badly standing up to cyclonic winds, depending on your point of view.  Ours hardly lost a leaf and only one small branch snapped off, but other sea almonds around town lost more branches.  But it is this branch-dropping habit that protects the whole tree from being blown over.  Personally, I think they’re a priceless tree – standing spitting distance away from a feeding black cockatoo is a treat.  Anyone who loves a change of leaf colour to indicate a change of season would enjoy sea almonds also, as the leaves turn a splendid red/orange colour before dropping off, during the dry season.  There are quite a few sea almonds planted along The Strand (North Ward). *Postscript – our sea almond died during the following unusually hot & dry October. The arborist’s assessment was that the tree had been twisted so much during Yasi that it was damaged internally – Townsville had a lot of trees die during this period. They looked ok after Yasi but could not repair themselves to manage the savage wet season build up weather.  It was estimated that Yasi destroyed more than 6,000 trees during the cyclone – but the quantity that died in the months afterwards, has not apparently been studied.

Foxtail palms:

I watched the neighbour’s foxtail palms during the height of the cyclone and they didn’t turn a hair either; not even breaking a single frond let alone dropping one.  I guess it’s not surprising since they’re a native of Cape York Peninsula, right near a coastal stretch that has been hit regularly by strong cyclones.   They certainly don’t look like they’d stand up to a strong wind, but they do.  There’s an excellent stand of foxtail palms at the entrance to the railway station (near the corner of Charters Towers Road and Flinders Street).

Alexander palms:

Another North Queensland palm tree that as expected, stood up to cyclonic winds extremely well.  We have many in our garden (they provide large quantities of fruit for fig birds, Torres Pigeons, Bowerbirds, etc) and I watched how the wind affected them also.  Fairly early on the frond on each palm which faced directly into the wind snapped and hung down – but that was all that happened – the fronds didn’t even fall off.  Alexander palms are found all over Townsville, for example in front of the Podiatry business on the corner of Ross River Road and O’Reilly Streets in Mundingburra. These are THE best palm to plant in Townsville, for feeding wildlife, providing shade, and tolerating tough North Queensland conditions (drought, flood, cyclonic winds).

Fan Palms:

Quite a few species of fan palms are native to northern Australia and many are grown in Townsville.  Because of the large, wind-catching fronds you’d expect they would fare badly in a cyclone but it seems this is not the case.  There may be some fan palms that blew over or snapped off in cyclone Yasi, but I haven’t seen one yet.  All those I have seen look like nothing has happened!  The most likely explanation is that the ‘fan’ part of the frond is on the end of a reasonably long and very flexible stem, so presumably when a strong wind hits the fronds just blow over to the downwind side of the palm and move into the position offering the very least resistance to the oncoming wind.  Most fan palms are exceedingly tolerant of harsh conditions (hot weather, erratic watering etc) and there are many very beautiful species, so it is surprising that they are not more commonly found in private and public gardens in northern Australia, especially in specific locations that their dimensions are ideally suited to – eg road median strips.   Some beautiful, very hardy fan palms can be seen in the median strip on Ross River Road, out the front of Cathedral School (Aitkenvale).

Royal Palms:

Natives of Cuba, where presumably they’re weathered big cyclones over the years, they’ve done well.  Despite their appearance.  Apart from relatively stout date palms, royal palms are the largest palms – certainly the tallest – commonly grown in north Queensland.  The trunks are huge and so are the heads, and they can grow very tall.  We removed our two last year as they were growing up through the top of a huge raintree and I thought they’d beat the raintree to death if blowing about during a cyclone; but the neighbour’s royal palms did well – they look a bit tatty, but are already sprouting new leaves.  Personally, I wouldn’t ever leave a royal palm standing within striking distance of a house, however.  There are quite a few that have blown over, and they are so tall and heavy they demolish whatever they hit.  Unlike a tree, which will have a fall broken by a number of branches, there are no branches on a palm tree to break the force of the hit.   Royal palms are found all over Townsville and are easily spotted because when mature they tower over any other palms.  Royal palms line part of Flinders Street West (in the Townsville CBD) and Woolcock Street. If you plant a Royal Palm the rule is: plant them where they have absolute full sun, so do not become leggy.

Pandanus:

I think pandanus is hugely underrated as a garden plant.  Yes pandanus trees generally grow slowly and yes most pandanus leaves are spiky and a pain to handle (literally).  However pandanus plants are incredibly hardy, they make fabulously quirky garden features (providing excellent afternoon shadows or lit up at night) and, they stand up to cyclones well.  Some have dropped a branch or two, but the main trunk and most of the branches seem to have survived unscathed.  Anderson Park in Mundingburra has a huge collection of different types of pandanus, and they can been seen around town in various locations, such as in some of the roundabouts along The Strand (North Ward).

Which common trees fared badly in cyclone Yasi?

Unfortunately, some of my favourite trees didn’t do well.

Weeping fig trees and Moreton Bay fig trees:

I love fig trees, they are one of my favourite types of tree.  But unfortunately I must admit that many of the mature weeping fig trees I’ve seen lately – from small to absolutely massive – have been horizontal ones.  No branches broken or leaves lost – and perhaps that’s partly why.  Trees that drop their leaves early, and small branches, put up less resistance to the wind and fare better than many that hang on to every leaf and branch.  Although we’ve had a lot of rain over the last few months, the cyclone brought relatively little rain (only a few inches), so this cannot be blamed for uprooting trees.

I have seen many Moreton Bay fig trees with huge broken branches – and believe that often it’s the stupid pruning of their aerial roots that doesn’t help the situation; they need all their aerial roots to protect the massive, weighty horizontal-spreading branches. It’s why they sprout these extra roots!

However, fig trees are spectacular and provide beautiful, dense shade – they are ideal for public parks and sporting grounds, where they can spread out without being pruned or having root growth restrictions.  So they are far less likely to fall over, and if they do, then there’s little likelihood of damage to infrastructure (water pipes etc).  Fortunately many of the younger weeping figs seemed to have survived in Bicentennial Park, between Queens Road and Ross River, in Hermit Park.  If you’re planting a big fig tree – ensure it has all the space it needs to grow into a complete, well-balanced specimen – and it will probably have no trouble surviving high winds and live for countless decades. Too many are badly pruned.

Frangipani trees:

It’s hard to beat frangipani trees as a symbol of the Pacific.  Townsville is full of frangipani trees of all colours.  Left to grow to full height they grow into surprisingly large trees, and unfortunately many of the largest and oldest frangipanis did not fair well in cyclone Yasi – simply blowing right over, roots out of the ground.  However smaller frangipani trees still have a full head of leaves and flowers and look like nothing has happened.  On the plus side, also, being hit by a falling frangipani tree would be akin to being slapped with a wet fish.  They are relatively light trees with smooth, pliable branches – they do not fall with anything like the force of a gum tree or royal palm, for example.  And foot-long frangipanni sticks can be broken off, dried and then stuck back in the ground to sprout a new tree, to produce flowers of the same colour.  The Townsville street well known for mature frangipanni trees of all flower colours is Love Lane, in Rosslea. Unfortunately frangipanni trees are incredibly easy to prune and this means that they’re often badly pruned by people who are flat out knowing which end of the secateurs are which. Most that blow over have been pruned & encouraged to become overly tall and top-heavy; without balancing lower branches. Helping them to survive means either leaving them alone, or pruning them to keep them lower to the ground & well balanced.

Frangipani trees can survive strong storm winds if they are a good shape, not leggy, and encouraged to grow good roots (not watered too regularly)

Gum trees (eucalypts):

I love all types of gum trees, but Townsville is now littered with every type – from locally indigenous blackbutts to ghost gums, river red gums and cadagi gums.  Large broken branches, snapped off trunks, or simply blown over completely.   Although there are also many survivors.  Large parks and riversides is where the tallest-growing eucalypts belong, in cyclone areas. We must keep growing these trees, native wildlife deserves them – but they should not be close to houses.

African mahogany trees:

They don’t fare well in suburbia but do well in acreage/rural situations because:

• a) they have plenty of room to grow their canopy and roots as they need to – not hemmed in by bitumen roads & pavement
• b) they are left to grow into a balanced shape instead of badly pruned &
• c) they are not over-watered or over-fertilised, so their roots go deep instead of staying close to the surface

*Note – this paragraph was re-written after additional information was encountered, re how well African Mahogany trees fared outside of suburbia.

Pine trees:

I have seen very few Norfolk Island pines that survived Yasi intact – many seemed to have blown straight over.  Given that they’re useless for shade, other plants don’t like growing underneath them and  they’re only good for eagles to perch on, from a bird’s point of view – why plant them?  I admit I’ve always been mystified as to why people do.  Norfolk pines look fabulous, squeezed between huge granite boulders on Magnetic Island, where they grow naturally.  But in a suburban garden?  I don’t think so – especially now it is apparent that they don’t handle cyclonic winds well.

*Postscript – a few people have told me they think Norfolk pines do well. I’m only going on what I saw – and that was a lot of suburban Norfolks lying flat on the ground, after Yasi!

Peltophorum pterocarpum (yellow poinciana, golden flame tree etc):

I’d always thought these trees were introduced from Africa or South America but apparently they’re an Australian native – from the Northern Territory (they’re also in Asia).  I must admit they’ve been one of my least favourite trees – often messy and straggly; sometimes riddles with borers.  Many blew over during cyclone Yasi.  They are very hardy trees (tolerating hot humid summers and cold dry winters) and grow well in towns between Townsville and Mt Isa, for example, but on the coast why bother growing them when there is so many better alternatives. These are great trees inland, where they’re from naturally – not on the coast.

Queen palms:

It’s puzzling why anyone would want to grow a Queen palm in a suburban garden.  Certainly they’d look great lining a driveway running for acres; but as they drop incredibly hard, heavy and pointy seed pods they’re actually quite dangerous.  Before we chopped ours down, I had found the pods buried up to 10cm point-down in mud in the backyard.  Wouldn’t do your skull a lot of good.  They aren’t self cleaning, and the truckload of tatty fronds, seed heads etc that accumulates up top is much favoured by nesting rats.  Their trunks are relatively slender with a very heavy head – so it’s no surprise that I’ve only seen one mature Queen palm still standing after cyclone Yasi; the rest have keeled over (onto sheds, houses, fences, etc…)  The only ones that survived are relatively stumpy.

Golden cane palms:

Alright I admit it, I’ve probably put golden cane palms in the ‘fail’ category because I don’t like them.  Popular decades ago, people still plant them even though there are much better alternatives.  But I admit, they are incredibly hardy – you couldn’t kill them with a stick.  But being hardy also means that like pencil pines, it’s almost impossible for any other vegetation to thrive underneath them – their roots form a mat as dense as concrete.  I thought they would be good cyclone protection but alas, quite a few of ours snapped off.  These were spindlier trunked ones that were competing more for light – stumpier golden cane palms seemed to have survived perfectly well – but I was very surprised that the trunks snapped, given they were in a reasonably protected location.  I guess the moral is to prune back anything spindly near houses and don’t grow full-sun trees in a situation where they have to compete for light. (I’ve never planted golden cane palms – just inherited them, when purchasing property).  These are not native to Australia, they produce an immense number of seeds, and the only wildlife that is attracted to them is bats (& probably only because the bats are hard up). There’s so many fabulous other palms including natives – why tolerate weed palms such as these.

There are several vital points to remember, to ensure the trees you plant have the best chance of survival in a cyclone:

– Suburban trees can live for many decades or even centuries and become much loved landmarks.   So have patience and get the start as perfect as possible.  When planting a tree, it is vital to start with a healthy plant, not one that is rootbound, stunted or diseased.  Saving several dollars upfront is ridiculously false economy!   Before planting your tree go and find mature specimens grown nearby so you know exactly just how high and wide your tree may become in your similar growing conditions, and ensure it’s got enough space to grow into a well balanced shape (unpruned by unhappy neighbours, electricity supply companies, road maintenance employees and not constrained by too many competing roots and branches of trees nearby).  You don’t want to find out the hard way that that little $9.95 rootbound seedling you hastily shoved in the ground was an accident waiting to happen in a high wind two decades later.

If you can, grow your tree from seeds produced by a healthy, locally grown tree whose shape you like.  I have often grown my own trees and palms, including boabs, coolamon trees, tamarind trees, poincianas, Alexander and livistona palms etc.  The sea almond at the front of our house was grown from a seed that fell from one of the best layer-shaped sea almonds on The Strand (Townsville).   My plant propagation methods are as basic as it gets – collect mature seed from the ground then throw them out onto soil (pots or a bare piece of garden bed), throw a bit of mulch over the top (palm frond ends) and wait for the seeds to germinate, usually over the wet season.    If you can’t grown your own trees and must buy them, then carefully CHECK that the tree is not rootbound when planting it out.  If it is, return it for a refund or quality replacement.  If at all possible, DO NOT buy and plant trees that are disproportionally tall in relation to the size of the pot they are squeezed into.  Ideally purchase trees no taller than around a metre – in fact 30cm or better still, small tube stock – to ensure the root system gets the very best start possible.  All to often people are misled into believing that the bigger the potted tree they buy, the sooner it will reach maturity.  However it is true that a (much cheaper) very small, healthy tree will quickly outpace a tree that has grown far too large for the pot it has been left in – even though the latter costs far more to buy.

– don’t stake trees or bushes if you can possibly avoid it and if you must stake a tree to prevent it falling over, only stake it for the bare minimum length of time.  It makes sense  that trees which experience strong winds when young, respond by producing more roots to brace against the wind pressure.  Staking a tree permanently is like keeping someone with a sore leg on crutches for good – their muscles will remain weakened.

– give young seedlings plenty of water but ease off as soon as they start to look like they don’t need to be mollycoddled.  Give growing ‘teenage’ trees only occasional waterings to keep them going during the hottest/driest periods, and give them good deep soaks rather than quick sprinkles.  This encourages the growing trees to invest energy in sending roots far and wide in search of the water they need.  Resist the urge to plant trees with in-ground watering systems eg amongst lawn.  Instead water them with a moveable hose/sprinkler so they’re watered on the edge of the drip line rather than right up against the trunk, and are weaned off gardener-supplied water altogether, as soon as is ideal.

– theoretically you shouldn’t dig out too large a hole and fill with another kind of soil (i.e. more fertile/friable) when planting trees (because the roots may be less encouraged to spread out).  In reality, if you’re planting a tree that will grow into a massive specimen, by the time it is mature it probably matters diddly squat whether the original hole was only as big as the original root ball or as big as a 20 litre drum, because the original hole created will be mostly if not completely taken up by tree’s root system.  It is however probably ideal to plant into a hole twice the size of the pot, just to make it a bit easier for the first roots to spread, and backfill the hole with whatever soil came out of it.

– the tree’s surroundings matter.  The taller the tree, the stronger the winds it will be subjected to – because the strength of cyclonic winds are reduced slightly at ground level due to the effect of vegetation, buildings, fencing and other objects etc.  So big trees, especially rainforest species, seem to get less of a battering if they are planted in a bit of a hollow.  They also survive better in carefully spaced groups rather than standing right out on their own or in straight lines, especially if they are out in the open.   Trees scattered around sporting grounds have a tough time during cyclones.  In Townsville’s Anderson Park, one of the ‘rainforest’ sections is on the westerly side of a large, open area which is slightly higher up, and these trees took an absolute caning.  Whereas mature trees tucked down on the slopes of a nearby creek/drain look virtually untouched.  It is the same along Ross River – most trees fared fairly well, except for an absolutely smashed section of the riverside bike track near Brownhill Street (Mundingburra), where the wind must have picked up speed up a long straight stretch of the river.

– remember that during a cyclone, vegetation seems to offer more protection to houses than it causes damage.  It is often said that the suburbs mostly badly damaged in Darwin during Cyclone Tracy were houses in the newest suburbs where trees and bushes were scarce, so there was little or no protection from flying debris – such as roofing tiles and sheets of iron. (There were also Darwin builders taking roof bracing shortcuts…but that’s a story for another day. Yasi & Larry were stronger cyclones, but there was less building damage.)

– every year before the cyclone season begins, cast a beady eye over vegetation near buildings and powerlines.  Prune off all dead wood and keep an eye on borer and termite damage.    It’s infinitely cheaper and easier to get essential pruning done before a cyclone than have to wait in the queue for a tree lopper after a cyclone has been through.  And quality pruning upfront can prevent damage that would otherwise occur in high winds.

– if you are cutting a tree off at the butt then any old chainsaw butcher will probably do the job.  But if you are having a tree’s health assessed and/or pruning done, find a good arborist.  Pruning that is too severe, not severe enough or unbalanced may well cause more problems during a cyclone than would have occurred if the tree was left alone.

-  Trees and bushes offer shelter, nesting areas and food for all kinds of birds and animals, they add value onto properties and lower air temperatures by several degrees.  As well as turning out oxygen.  Anyone who has a bare backyard should be sentenced to life on the western Queensland & NT  blacksoil plains where summers are excruciatingly long and hot and it is impossible to grow anything taller than the eves on a single story house (due to the naturally cracking clay drying out tree roots), until they wake up to themselves.  Either that or they should move into a high rise unit where they have nothing more than a few balcony potplants to kill.

…this is a work in progress, if you have any comments at all to make, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

The post Which trees survive cyclones? How do you help trees withstand cyclones? first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

Open the camera app & follow this path:
– settings (the knurled wheel)
– watermark
– enter the letters/numbers you want, then choose the font style & alignment (position)
– turn it on (it’s quick to turn on & off the watermark whenever you like – just a toggle switch).

If you want to remove the watermark from a phone image:
Open the camera app:
– find the image & tap to open it
– tap the pencil (edit) icon
– revert
– save

The watermark is apparently applied as a layer after the image has been taken, so it is easy to remove from the image when it’s still on the phone.
For me this is manna from heaven as I typically take more than a thousand phone images a week when travelling – and I always intend to choose then watermark then post some…and just don’t get around to it. So thousands of my best phone images never see the light of day – except in workshops. Now, the job is done in camera so bam, anything can go online whenever.
The pic below was taken in south eastern England a couple of weeks ago. It’s zoomed in by approx 30x so not big wall print level of detail – but it’s fine for small screen use. When taking images it can pay to bear in mind the watermark placement if that’s important to you. EG this image watermark would be better if positioned wholly over the grass in the foreground, so the tail end wasn’t lost in the white cliff background. However, my preference is to always prioritise the story; and that means choosing the perfect composition, Watermark placement is secondary. If I wasted time faffing around with that I’d get a lot fewer good images and a lot less travelling done.
Some people whinge about watermarks being distracting, ugly, whatevs – but viewers aren’t paying to see images posted on social media, so I say stiff biscuits…happy to take payment for anyone who’d like a copy with no watermark

Why add a watermark?
– anchor you as the author to the image – globally, in perpetuity
– are a reminder that the image is not for anyone else to use without permission (& probably, payment – if it’s worth using, it’s worth paying for, even if nominal)
– can help drive traffic to your website (or social media channel)
Yes watermarks can be removed via software, but watermarking images is like the difference between locking your car and leaving it open; the former is a deterrent, the latter is an invitation to thieves. If there’s a legal dispute there’s no prize for guessing whether watermarking will make your case easier to prove!

During photography workshops – whether mobile phone photography or aerial photography via drones – we discuss copyright related issues. For example, what to do if someone uses one of your images or videos without your permission (& payment).
More workshop info can be found on other blog pages and website pages but if you have any queries, don’t hesitate to send an email to enquire.

The post How to watermark phone photos first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

I love DJI’s Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced (M2EA); so hate to sell it. But owning four is too many & this is the most under-utilised! (I have to do a cull at least once a year, as the collection does get out of control. Most are simply sold to locals via Facebook groups but this is a particularly specialised beast.)

This ‘Enterprise’ drone has had a cushy life, producing pics for the thermal section in my drone workshops, plus the odd demo flight for participants. No dirty job sites, locked up in a roasting vehicle or bouncing around in the back of a ute. In fact it’s lived the equivalent life of a Toyota Landcruiser just drived a few k’s on the multi lane bitumen to the supermarket every week or two. Which means it’s in excellent condition – especially for what is designed to be a sturdy money-making workhorse – and likely one of the best if not the best secondhand drone of it’s kind that you’ll find on offer.

The Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced is a top quality thermal imaging drone, also with an ordinary RGB camera; ideal for all kinds of commercial grade inspections, search & rescue, stock/feral animal locating – a million and one income earning uses. Not just outdoor jobs, but also indoors – the thermal camera results are that good it can be handheld and used inside a building.

M2EA thermal image resolution is the same as the M30T (640×512); & vast improvement on the original Mavic Enterprise. (It’s important not to confuse the specs and costs of these different models.) These Enterprise drones have industrial grade security features such as password protection plus 24GB inbuilt storage, SDK support (for 3rd party apps). Itâ€s super quick to launch; from turning it on to airborne (a vital S & R feature), and has a top speed of 72kph.

All software up to date (drone, batteries, controller, fly safe database). It uses the DJI Pilot app, which is based on the much better Go4 app not the dumbed-down Fly app. (So itâ€s possible to adjust the battery discharge times etc).

ITEMS INCLUDED & COST:

Standard bundle items plus a stack of extras:

• DJI hardcase with a great seal (made to measure & quality foam, not fall-apart foam)

• DJI Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced aircraft & props

• Flight battery & charger

• Drone battery to USB plug (for charging other devices eg phone; useful for drone battery discharge before storage)

• Gimbal protector

• M2EA Smart Controller

• DJI charger plug especially suited to the RC (very fast charging; well suited to S & R work or stock mustering)

• M2EA accessories: speaker, spotlight, beacon (some of these are extra add-on cost items for other Enterprise models; and the M3T doesn’t have a spotlight accessory at all)

• All of the original info booklets. If the drone is sold to someone living a fair way out of town, I can get a copy of the 60+ page manual printed & bound, to send (FOC). DJI drone manuals are full of vital info.

• Spare: 2 pairs of remote control sticks, accessory port cover

• Plus – 3 extra batteries (replacement cost $867); car charger ($139); 2 pod cases ($59); fluoro orange skin for increased visibility ($55, custom made); silicon caps for protecting motor prongs when props are off ($14), lipo bag for 3 batteries ($30) – IE more than $1164.

Total replacement cost if bought new today $9403 plus the extras of $1164 – $10,500+

So the sale cost of $7,250 saves more than $3,000 compared to the new price. Even if you don’t want the extra do-dads, you still save around $2,000. I’ve priced this to sell rather than faff around.

Postage/freight:

The sale price also includes postage Australia-wide, registered & insured, up to a value of $100. $100 will be taken off the total price if sold to someone who picks it up in person. The sale price is negotiable for the right person.

Comparison with other drone models, new & secondhand:

Because I don’t like stuffing around when selling anything I put a lot of upfront work into calculating a fair price. Based on:

• Recent sales prices for the identical drone model
• Condition comparison, as well as accessories
• Comparison with other models (newer and older)

Two challenges for buyers that I also struggled with when new:

1. Differences between models – accurate comparisons is nigh on impossible for anyone not super familiar with drones generally, or particular types. Which features are real improvements, and which features are talked up to sound great but in fact make diddly squat difference to the usability or quality of the work the drone does? (One of the reasons why I run workshops, to demystify snake oil seller speak!). Transmission range is one of the best examples of that. And a good alternative tech comparison is mobile phones. When a new phone model comes out, are the features spruiked really something that matter to you? Or nice to have but so incremental or non-essential they’re not worth shelling out extra dollars for? I can explain the difference between the M2EA, M3T & M2ED so you’ll know which is best for you.
2. What accessories/extras do you really need? Comparing apples with apples, re the extras included in a sale and determining what you need and what you don’t, is difficult. Are you just buying a drone, or are you buying a drone plus all the other things you’ll need to actually work with it (top of the list being extra batteries)? Or are you being sold a stack of irrelevant accessories that you don’t need/won’t use? (I still have the screen shade that came with my first drone, in 2016 – still in its packet!) Buying a drone is a bit like buying a boat for fishing. There’s a whole lot of additional and unavoidable expenses required, in order to go fishing – starting with choosing the right motor to bolt onto it, plus a trailer to cart it around – not to mention rods etc! But what you don’t want is a box full of expensive lures that aren’t suited to the fish you’re trying to catch. Drones are similar. What do you need for the job you want your drone to do? What is a waste of money? What is being included that you may or may not end up using, and is it actually adding to the purchase price – or being included at no extra charge, so doesn’t really matter, like my screen shade? There’s very few retailers of new drones who won’t try to sell you stuff you don’t need. If you’re buying a drone from me for a purpose it isn’t suited to, or accessories that aren’t relevant, I will tell you upfront.

FREE TRAINING/PRO DRONE TIPS INCLUDED:

The optional extra at no charge; unique with this purchase – that you won’t get from any other seller: if you’re unfamiliar with using thermal cameras and/or the many income-earning jobs it can undertake, I can provide valuable foundation information and advanced tips, which includes knowledge from cert 1 thermography training. The buyer can also be emailed a summary of the thermal drone section from my drone workshop presentations.

WHAT ARE THERMAL DRONES USED FOR?

Thermal cameras record light wavelengths that aren’t visible to the human eye.

Thermal is the new frontier in industry – image quality has vastly improved and the cost greatly reduced, over the last few years. In terms of drones, DJI’s Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced is a massive improvement on the first model, the Mavic 2 Enterprise Dual. In fact I decided to buy an M2ED because the price was so discounted when the M2EA was released. But when I saw the difference in image quality, no way I could buy the super cheap model; I had to have the one with great detail, the Advanced! The M3T is the latest model but here’s the vital thing: the thermal image quality is the same. And if you’re buying a flying camera, what matters most is that it is capturing the detail you need.

HAVE ANY QUESTIONS?

All my gear is well looked after. I’m self employed and often working/visiting very remote areas, and being super careful with gear increases reliability as well as saleability.

If you are considering purchase, sing out via the website contact page, social media or the phone, if you have any queries.

I have many other images of the drone and other items included, and images that the drone has taken.

These Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced drones don’t come up for sale very often, so if it’s something you’re considering, best not to hesitate.

The post Thermal drone for sale (DJI Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced) first appeared on Fiona Lake Australian Outback Photos & Writing.

• Entry or advanced level drone users
• Commercial or recreational purposes
• Photography or agricultural uses, or mapping
• Rural or urban use

And many are asking online for opinions. Incomplete and inaccurate information is rife so I’ve written a comprehensive, independent summary.

Traps to be aware of; often drone owners offering opinions:

• Have only flown one or two drones and this is what they recommend for you.
• Are only familiar with their own circumstances, not yours. Your specific aims, requirements, circumstances and budget may be completely different. EG they are unaware of the challenges involved in rural & remote Australia (from ultra-fine dust to temperatures regularly above 40c, winter below freezing, humidity above 80%, long distances from mobile phone reception and slow upload/download speeds). Do they have sound knowledge of professional-standard photography requirements (what drone features will make a real difference to what you create, and what don’t matter). Do they understand the needs of small business owners or are they just flying recreationally, and with more spare time than you have? And do they realise that a professional can get good results from basic tools – IE spending a lot doesn’t = better results, if the operator isn’t up to speed.

• DON’T get hung up on spec sheets, without understanding what the specs actually mean. EG, the difference between optical and digital zoom or what shifting from Lightbridge to Occusync may mean, in terms of usability. Or fall for the common assumption that because a lens carries the brand name of a traditionally expensive camera manufacturer it automatically produces better images than the rest. Many bang on about specs instead of examining end results. Actual output and performance! These days many phone & drone manufacturers talk up hardware specs including sensor size but they cut hardware quality corners and rely on software to correct imperfections.
• DO:  take listed capabilities only as a guide for comparing between models. There is of course a big difference between the real world and a manufacturer testing a drone’s flight time and distance in perfect conditions (no wind or signal interference, at sea level, temperature in low 20s C, flying in a power-efficient manner). A manufacturer’s listing of a flight time of 47 minutes does not mean you’ll be flying that drone for 47 minutes. Maximum flight distances are often spruiked but should be ignored because in Australia, same as in most countries, it is only legal for a drone pilot to fly their drone as far as they can see it with their own eyes, unaided (‘VLOS’). And there are numerous reasons why signal interference can occur. Use these specs to compare models. EG ‘this model usually has a longer flight time than that one’, ‘this drone is likely to have a stronger drone-to-controller signal than that one’.

The information below is written with Australia in mind however the principles apply globally.

I don’t sell drones; the information I provide is completely independent and based on solid hands-on drone usage. See the bottom of this page for my drone-related qualifications & experience. In summary:

• Fully licenced & certified by CASA and I’ve owned & flown many of the most popular consumer level drones.
• I have been invited to present at drone conferences on 4 continents (Europe, China & the US, in addition to Australia); delivering keynote addresses as well as drone introductory sessions & masterclasses.
• Small business owner & professional aerial photographer for 30+ years.
• I run drone training sessions through the Rural Drone Academy but this has no bearing on information provided to the general public re recommendations for drone purchases.

Outback drone photography – on OBE Organic’s Adria Downs Station, Birdsville – taken with DJI’s Phantom 4 drone in 2016.

There’s a lot of detail here but it’s important to note – buyers are often spending more money than they need to or buying a drone that isn’t a good fit for what they need. If you don’t want to waste time or money, it’s worth doing decent research before buying a drone.

If you simply want a summary of what is the best drone to learn to fly on (without considering any other factors, eg job requirements or portability), then see the What is the best drone for beginners blog post.

SUMMARY:

If you’re buying a sub 2kg drone:

• If you’re on a tight budget and/or want super portability, a Mini 3 drone model is your choice.
• If you want the best sub 2kg image quality then one of the Mavic 3 drone models is for you.
• If you want a compromise, pick a drone inbetween, eg an Air.
• Your work requires an enterprise drone and you have the necessary budget: determine exactly what your primary use will be then check the online spec sheets.

DETAILS – ALL BELOW!

Want to buy & fly a drone? First:

• Determine exactly what you want to use it for. Is a drone the best tool for the job?
• If in Australia: visit the ‘OK2Fly’ website (via CASA) and enter the location where you intend to fly your drone most of the time, to check you are legally allowed to do so from an airspace point of view. And visit the Civil Aviation Safety Authority and read the drone laws that apply to your situation, to check it’s safe & legal to do what you have in mind.
• If in another country: visit your federal government’s national aviation body & read up on the drone laws. There may also be an official drone app which you can download which shows where you can and can’t fly drones. In the US it’s the Federal Aviation Administration; Canada: Transport Canada, UK: Civil Aviation Authority.  and in New Zealand it’s also the Civil Aviation Authority. Up until mid 2019 European countries had separate drone laws for each nation, but EASA (European Union Aviation Safety Agency) has put an impressive amount of work into formulating EU-wide drone regulations.
• Also – be aware that the remit of aviation authorities is to ensure aviation safety. There’s also federal, state and local authority laws preventing drone flights in specific areas – from coastal ports to urban parks to Defence Force facilities and prisons (including prison farms).  The onus is on drone operators to ensure they have thoroughly checked (‘ignorance is no excuse in the eyes of the law’).
• The internet is full of people who’ve spent a thousand or two buying a drone, only to find they live too close to controlled airspace to fly where they want to, without a drone licence and special permission; or what they want to do just isn’t safe or legal.  EG checking bores on stations (out of line of sight). Don’t risk buying an expensive paperweight – check before buying.

Then:

Buying a drone is like buying a car.  The vital consideration is: what do you (or the operator) specifically want a drone to do (what will the drone be used for), and who will be flying it (child or adult, experienced or inexperienced)?

In simple terms, the 5 main choice-related considerations:

1. Portability (smaller = better)
2. Visibility (how far you can fly it legally is determined by how far away you can see it. Bigger = better.)
3. Quality of images (or the ability to use other kinds of sensors) & camera features
4. Price (don’t pay more than you need to)
5. Wind resistance (vital consideration if flights are time-sensitive and you are in coastal or other regions where high winds are a regular occurrence)
6. Weight class of the drone, in relation to registration or licencing requirements. In Australia what matters most is sub 250g & sub 2kg categories (the CASA website has more details, and I run through this kind of information in workshops).

What is best for you depends on which of the above considerations matters most to you. List your personal priorities in order.

IN SHORT – IF YOU ARE CHOOSING A SUB 2KG DRONE:

• If you’re on a tight budget and/or want super portability, a Mini 3 model is your choice.
• If you want the best sub 2kg image quality then one of the Mavic 3 models is for you.
• If you want a compromise, pick a drone inbetween.
• Enterprise drones under 2kg; determine exactly what your primary use will be then check the online spec sheets.

Summary of different drone features to consider & significance in relation to completing required tasks:

• Portability: size & weight. Will you be carting it around on a motorbike, in a ute, or on a plane?  In your pockets or a large hard case? Considerations include battery specs, if you want to be able to carry it on a passenger plane.
• Quality of the inbuilt camera: which really only matters a lot if you want to sell drone photographs; otherwise, most inbuilt cameras on larger drones are good enough (producing quality aerial images and videos is much more difficult than on the ground; buying a top quality drone camera is a waste without the experience to get the best out of it.)  Some of the smaller drones have camera specs & output that match larger, much more expensive drones – so don’t presume bigger/more expensive = better quality image creation ability.  The two main aspects to consider are: the level of detail in the image and the dynamic range (how much detail is in the darkest & lightest parts of the image. Only so much can be rectified via editing software. And you might not want to have to spend time editing. Or fussy details might not matter that much. Another drone workshop topic discussed in detail.)
• Ability to attach other cameras and sensors:  rather than just use inbuilt cameras and sensors – are you wanting to use your drone for mapping, for example?
• Capacity to carry other weight:  eg spray units (bearing in mind that using drone spray units requires licencing and special permission; IE you progress to this point rather than start from it.  You only buy a spray drone after you’ve got all the licences required.)
• Number of motors: quadcopters [4 motor drones] drop like rocks if one motor fails – no redundancy. Octocopters & hexacopters can usually keep flying.  For licenced pilots this matters, because special permission may be granted by CASA to fly higher or closer to people than would be the case with just a quadcopter. But quadcopters are usually much cheaper & simpler.
• Weight of the drone:  heavier drones usually fly more smoothly in strong winds.  Lighter drones struggle to film smooth videos. Will you be making videos, and flying your drone in an area where it’s often windy?  Small light drones can struggle in coastal areas. Strong winds also chew through battery power, shortening flight times.
• Noise: if you want to muster livestock out of holding paddocks with your drone, noise is an advantage. Some later models drones are quieter than earlier models – so they’d be less useful for moving stock.  And see the Mavic 2 Enterprise – which can use a loudspeaker.
• Power:  affects speed, lift capacity, steadiness in the wind etc.  Cost is fairly directly related to power.
• Longevity/durability:  consumer drones are not made to fly longer than most pilots use them over about 3 years. As camera & software specs are rapidly improved longevity is more of an issue for drones above 2kg with interchangeable cameras (older drone bodies can be useful for a long time by just upgrading the camera). Most consumer drones are superseded long before their moving parts wear out. The availability of batteries does become an issue for discontinued models.
• Range (transmission range – controller to drone):  is rarely an issue for sub 2kg consumer drones because the controller-to-drone transmission range for most is way beyond VLOS; ie they cannot be legally flown to the edge of transmission range (without licencing plus special BVLOS permission, which is very hard to obtain, for sound safety reasons). IE ignore ‘5km range’ and ’10km range’ that you may see on advertising material because sub 2kg drones cannot possibly be seen by the operator just 1 kilometre away, even in ideal atmospheric conditions.
• Speed: is also worth ignoring – unless you’re buying a racing drone (a rather moot point; as drone racers typically custom build their own drones, anyway).  The top speed advertised with drones is usually not available in all modes, and super-fast speed is rarely required. It’s also worth noting that current collision avoidance sensors do not usually work at top speeds.  (Logical when you think about it but it continues to amaze, how many fly their drones full-tilt at solid objects then complain when their aerial robot is not able to sense and brake before impact.)

And –

Drone battery considerations:

• Flight time – when new the real flight time for most fully charged drone batteries is  around 20 minutes; depending on the brand/model and flight conditions. Bearing in mind that you can’t run a drone battery down to zero when flying. (Of course UAV battery life will improve as technology evolves.)
• Capacity of the drone batteries. Current CASA and airline rules re the carriage of dangerous goods (eg lithium batteries for drones) state that below 100w the quantity carried is discretionary. Above 100w there are limitations on the number that can be carried.  Larger drones – above 2kg – usually have more batteries and they’re higher capacity, fewer of which can be carried on airlines. So this should be considered if you want to take your drone on planes.  It may be necessary to send your extra batteries as cargo (rather than on a passenger plane) or by road.  Rules for carriage of dangerous goods on airlines are discussed and formulated by the IATA (International Air Transport Association) so rules tend to be similar across airlines; but always check CASA’s ‘carriage of dangerous goods’ section as well as the relevant information on the website of the specific airlines you’ll be flying with.  Some airlines now insist drones must be in checked luggage rather than hand luggage (but batteries still in carry-on). Airlines can and do change these rules overnight, so check before you leave for the airport.
• Lithium batteries that power drones are expensive and do need replacing every so often. The current price for Phantom & Mavic batteries is just under $300, and batteries for larger machines are more than $300.
• Quantity & battery management – best practice management is tedious; buying a big stack of batteries means lots of work looking after them properly. Most drone operators, including professionals, find 3-4 batteries is the optimum number to own for each drone.

Farm drone photography (High Country, Victoria)

Which model of drone is best?

Just like cars, there are different drones for specific purposes; and drones that are more multi-purpose. If you buy a tiny, easy-to-park & economical town car it will be great for that purpose but if you take it bush-bashing you’ll be disappointed.  Choose your horse for the right course.

Like cars, there are many different brands of drones and a variety that are considered good quality.  But for simplicity’s sake I’ve concentrated on the most common brand of consumer drones: DJI.  It’s like the Toyota of drones. Because:

• DJI drones are readily available everywhere – easy to find
• The internet is full of ‘how to’ videos and problem solving for various models of DJI drones
• Easy to find accessories for (new & secondhand)
• Most spare parts are readily available and they can be repaired by the mechanically or technology-minded at home
• Competitively priced and easy to sell secondhand when upgrading
• Most drone training courses revolve around DJI drones

1. Ryze Tello & Parrot Mambo (discontinued):

• Both are a very small drones, weighing less than 100g and costing less than two hundred dollars.
• These drones are learning and recreational tools, not useful for work purposes, and they’re really for indoor use only.
• However though these small drones are often referred to as ‘toys’, they should not be treated as toys and given to children to fly unsupervised. A spinning propeller across an eyeball can cause permanent damage, and the props easily tangle in long hair. Children flying drones should be supervised and wear protective glasses. (A session on how to best manage children & drones, with other advice, is included in my drone workshops.)
• Image and video quality isn’t too bad considering the tiny size of these machines – but not usable for anything much other than social media posts (& no option to record ‘raw’ image files).
• The smaller & cheaper the drone the harder they tend to be to fly, but as they’re light they’re fairly tough; and they are great for training.
• Usually controlled via a phone, however cheap control units can be purchased which makes them much easier to fly (less lag).
• These drones use VPS not GPS – so they can easily fly indoors (as long as the surface below isn’t too reflective or bland), but it’s best to have prop guards fitted when inside buildings to protect eyes, faces and walls from damage.
• The transmission range is short – they cannot fly far from the operator (usually less than 30 metres, but it varies according to conditions)
• Batteries only last for a few minutes.
• Being so light, Tello and Mambo drones struggle even in a light breeze.
• As these two drones weigh less than 100g, have a low transmission distance and short battery life -  they can be flown in some areas where 100g plus drones are not permitted, as the smaller drones are deemed to not pose a risk to aviation safety & minimal risk to people or property.
• Tellos and Mambos don’t require complicated software updates or a licence to operate.
• There’s fun but educational free-to-download software that kids can use to programme them. EG Tynker.
• Note: – DJI sells Tellos & provides components for them; but they’re designed by Ryze. Parrot is a French drone company, now moving towards production of commercial drones only, so Mambos have unfortunately been discontinued.

2. DJI Spark (Discontinued, much to the disgust of the many fans):

• Primarily designed for the cashed-up selfie taker.
• Ideal for travelling light – fits into a big pocket or handbag & can be operated via a mobile phone screen rather than a dedicated controller.
• Relatively cheap.
• The compromise is a poorer quality camera & gimbal and due to lightness & less power, Sparks struggle in wind; but handy for putting up for a look (eg checking spot fires).
• Maximum battery life of 16 minutes.
• Much shorter range – the transmission range is shorter, but in any case, being smaller, Spark drones are less visible from a distance.
• Yuneec Breeze is a similar brand & model to consider, and Parrot may have something similar.
• DJI’s Spark has really been replaced by the Mavic Mini, released in November 2019.

Mavic drones – consumer models:

• DJI’s Mavic drones are designed to fold up so they’re easy to cart around & less likely to be damaged in transit, and they fit very neatly into durable ‘pod’ style cases.
• Each Mavic model has different specs and these can be compared on DJI’s website, in detail. Only you can decide what will suit your particular circumstances – the bottom line is that you get what you pay for.
• There are three lines of Mavic drones for recreational or light commercial use (rather than industrial):

1. The Mavic Mini – first created in 2019, specifically to fit under the 250g weight class – so it weighs just 249g. Ideal for travellers with only carry-on luggage and designed to be under the compulsory registration threshold in some countries. Note that on the later 2 models DJI has dropped the ‘Mavic’ name for the Mini.
2. The Mavic Air series – originally released in 2018 and updated in 2020 and again in 2021. Smaller, lighter and cheaper than the Pro; the compromise sitting between the Mini and the Pro. Like the Mini, the term ‘Mavic’ has been dropped from the name, so it’s now just known as the ‘Air’.
3. The Mavic Pro series – the original and heaviest Mavic line, first created in 2016.  The Mavic most commonly used for work-related purposes.

3. Mini 3:

• The Mini 3 is the world’s most popular sub 250g drone, and this version was released on 17 May 2022
• There’s two distinctly different main markets for the DJI’s Mini drone: 1) Travellers who want a reliable, easy to use drone that is simple to transport & 2) Professional photographers who need a smaller drone to fit into tight spaces or who choose to use a sub 250g drone for certain work, to avoid a whole lot of aviation law related admin (paperwork & permissions). Yes professionals can get usable results from small drones.
• Fixed aperture – this is painful for professional photographers used to being able to change all 3 light controls (ISO, shutter speed & aperture). But for aerial photography aperture adjustments are mostly to control light not change depth of field, so filters can be used to adjust the light hitting the sensor instead. It’s just a lot more fiddly.
• ‘Visual line of sight’ (VLOS) drone rules in most countries prohibit the flying of drones further away than the operator can see them (& these rules apply country-wide; not just in urban areas). As the mini is so small, the legal range is only a few hundred metres even in the best visibility. If you want to fly further away than this, buy a larger drone.
• The ‘DJI FLY’ app was created for the original ‘Mavic Mini’ and DJI have unfortunately stuck with it. It’s a much simpler (‘dumbed down’) app compared to the Go 4 app used on older drones and ‘Fly’ is hated by most drone owners who have used the older app. They miss the extra options and greater on-screen detail that makes flying safer.
• Summary – surprisingly good image quality, super portable, relatively simple to use. But if you want a drone that is more visible, can tolerate a bit stronger wind and produce better quality images or videos then you need to spend more on a larger and heavier drone.
• Note: I don’t recommend touching the original Mini – the specs on the Mini 2 & 3 are just so much better. Top of that list is wind resistance & connectivity, which the original Mini had issues with.

4) & 5): Original (first) Mavic, Mavic 2 Pro & Mavic 2 Zoom now replaced by the Mavic 3; and the Mavic Air 2s has replaced the first two Mavic Air  models:

• The original Mavic Air will squeeze into large pockets on jackets, however the Mavic Air 2 & 2s is too big for pockets.
• Mavic Pro Drones are not standard-pocket sized but fit easily into a backpack or carry-on luggage and are convenient to carry in any vehicle.
• Mavic 3 drones: released November 2021. Originally 2 versions: the ordinary Mavic 3  & the ‘Cini’, then other versions (which you can find online by googling spec sheets). Both of the first Mavic 3 models cost a lot more than earlier models and the Cini is considerably more expensive. It comes with an inbuilt 1TB SSD plus Apple ProRes – it is designed to suit professional cinematographers requiring a good quality but small drone – who have more sophisticated software and computer than the average drone user. Specialist gear for specialist users – not the average punter. Amongst a number of smaller differences, the Mavic 3 drones feature a larger sensor than any other sub 2kg DJI drone; it is 4/3, and it has a much longer flight time, with different batteries.  The release of the Mavic 3 also heralds the release of a new smart controller. For the vast majority of drone users, it is not worth paying the considerable jump in price to upgrade from the Air 2s or Mavic 2 Pro to the Mavic 3. The Mavic 3 produces much better images in low light (eg evening cityscapes) but the daylight still image quality difference is less dramatic. The initial release and months following the Mavic 3 launch were plagued with hardware issues and the software had glitches and missing features.  After many months of waiting, software updates addressed most of the headaches, although the Mavic 3 still uses the newer Fly app which is far inferior and over-simplified, compared to the earlier Go4 software which was so much better for users beyond the houseplant stage. As at the time of writing, the Mavic 3 still doesn’t have image file number option of continuous, which is a standard, basic digital photography gear 101 option.
• The main differences between the Mavic 2 Pro & Mavic 2 Zoom, many of which are available secondhand: the upgraded models released in August 2018 – the Mavic 2 Pro has a 1″ sensor; the same size as the larger & more expensive Phantom 4 Pro; whereas the Mavic 2 Zoom has the same size sensor as the original Mavic, but the lens will zoom from 24mm to 48mm. 24mm is a wide angle lens (so things appear further away than they actually are) whereas 50mm is the standard for DSLR cameras – it’s what most closely approximates the what is seen by human eyes.  So it’s important to note that 48mm still won’t get you up close to animals or people (unlike a 120, 200mm or longer lens).  However – the Mavic 2 Zoom is the best cheaper off the shelf drone choice if you need to see something closer while on the fly (as distinct from downloading the image & enlarging it, after flying); particularly if it’s something you can’t fly too close too, for safety reasons. The Mavic 2 Zoom is also great for cinematic effects, as well as being a few hundred dollars cheaper.  However the Mavic 2 Pro produces better quality still images.
• Mavic Air drone: the original Air was released in early 2018. Then the Air 2 came on the market in April 2020, and the Air 2s in April 2021. The two later models are still cheaper, smaller and lighter than the original Mavic Pros – thus the Air remains more portable. On paper it can handle the same wind strength as Mavic Pros and fly for a bit longer than 30 minutes but comments from users suggest this is over optimistic in real world conditions. On paper the Air can travel almost as quickly as the larger Mavic Pros and the later Air models do have a better transmission system than the original Air. Like the Mavic zoom, the first two Air models 2 only have a 1/2″ sensor (unlike the Mavic 2 Pro and Phantom 4 Pro, both with a 1″ sensor), but the Air 2s has a 1″ sensor (thought not yielding results as good as the Mavic 2 Pro or Phantom 4 Pro). The Air 2s does have some better camera and video specs and auto modes. However the aperture of the Air model is fixed rather than adjustable. Aperture is primarily used in drone photography for adjusting light when filming (rather than increasing or decreasing the plane of focus – more relevant to ground photography) so the Mavic Air drones won’t be the first choice for cinematographers.  Thus the Mavic 3 is the best sub 2kg DJI drone for cinematography amongst photographers who use manual settings rather than just auto.
• The Mavic 3, 2’s and Mavic Air (original and 2) have 8GB of onboard storage, handy if you’ve forgotten to put a memory card back into it after downloading images.
• ADSB – due to US legislation, DJI are now making drones with ‘Air Sense’ – an ADSB receiver that pics up signals from manned aircraft that are transmitting location signals, so that drone operators are warned of manned aircraft in the vicinity.  Note that these drones don’t transmit a signal, they only receive. It’s also worth mentioning that many aircraft in Australia are not required to have transponders so relying on ‘Airsense’ or an app such as ‘Flight Radar’ could lead to a false sense of security – until aviation authorities make location signalling compulsory for all airborne manned aircraft, including gliders, gyrocopters and ultralights. All drone pilots must continue to rely 100% on their eyes and ears to look out for approaching manned aircraft. There is a good argument for fitting ADSB transmitters to drones (not just receivers); and an app ADSB signals should not be relied upon.
• If you are buying a drone to take photographs out the paddock on a motorbike or to take backpacking, IE space is a top priority, you’d choose to buy the Air 2s not a larger Mavic.
• Buy a Mavic zoom if you need to view greater detail without flying closer. For example – you want to check ewes or cows at lambing or calving time, without disturbing them. If you only need to see the detail later, then just enlarge the footage on computer instead of buying a zoom. Mavic 3 also has a second lens however it’s more expensive than many people would want to pay.
• You’d also choose a Mavic 2 Pro if image quality plus portability is your number one priority or you need a drone to withstand higher winds – but you’ll be paying a lot more money for it than an Air 2s.
• I’ve owned an original model Mavic Air – the most beautifully designed portable drone on the market. I sold it only because it wasn’t being used enough.  And, you can get red ones. I recommend the Mavic Air 2s as being the best choice for most travellers or the even smaller  and lighter Mini 2.
• Mavic Pros (original model and the 2) are the most popular drones on farms & stations in Australia, due to their portability. I owned a Mavic 2 Pro as a backup  but only flew it when I ran out of Phantom batteries (despite online misinformation, the image quality of these 2 drones is very similar).
• Remember that drones are like cars – usually people will talk up the brand or model they own. If you’re on a farm or station, a secondhand Phantom, Mavic Air 2s or Mavic Mini 2 may actually suit you better than the largest Mavic – so consider the options carefully rather than blindly running with the pack. And ultimately it depends on what you’re prepared to pay – pay more, get more.

6. Mavic Enterprise Drones. Originally the ‘M2E’ & ‘M2E Dual’, then the Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced, then the Mavic 3 Enterprise series, eg the M3T (thermal):

The original 2 ‘Enterprise’ Mavic drones were first released in 2018.  These two related DJI drone models are discussed separately to the Mavics above as the Mavic Enterprise drones have been designed specifically for industrial purposes – the first small industrial use drones that DJI manufactured. They come with fantastic work-related features and cost a lot more than consumer level drones. Many retailers and reviewers have produced spec-sheet comparisons that are easy to find online, so below is just a rough explanation/summary of the features:

M2E drones come with 3 interchangeable accessories – a speaker, spotlight and beacon – that would be especially useful for some farmers & livestock producers, though they were created with emergency service uses in mind. The Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced and Mavic 3 Enterprise also has the optional extra of an RTK module that can be added. The latter is also slightly faster (horizontally and vertically) plus a bit more wind resistant. It also has a built in beacon instead of optional accessory – but bearing in mind lights chew batteries. It also has a thermal zoom, however most of these improvements won’t make much difference to users. The longer flight time will, however. Significantly, the image resolution for the M3T is the same as the M2EA, and it’s the feature that matters most to most users and really incentivises upgrades. The big resolution leap was made between the first models released in 2018, and the M2EA released several years later.

• M2EA speaker; maximum volume 100DB at 1metre distance; audible 20-40 metres away, or more (depending on conditions). M2E pilots can make up to 10 voice or sound recordings & play them on demand. Or transmit real-time voice messages. Developed primarily with emergency service operations in mind.
• M23A self-heating batteries: useful for drone work in temperatures down to -10c. (Most drone batteries need to reach 15c before safe flight.  Many people use heat pads and handwarmers to warm drone batteries just before flight in very cold regions.)  The battery heating commences when the temperature is between -20c & 6c and the button is pressed & held for 5 seconds; or heating is automatic if inserted into the M2E & turned on.

Flying drones after official last light & before first light requires full licencing and training in Australia, but these two features are particularly useful in low-light situations:

• M2EA Dual spotlight (2,400 lumens); enough light to capture clear images up to 30 metres away. But not adjustable in flight, only on the ground.
• M2EA Flashing strobe light, for superior aviation safety – visible up to 5km away.

Another couple of interesting industrial-standard features for the M2EA, which probably also apply to the later model M3T:

• Password protection for the 24GB of data stored on board (not the memory card), and the password is required to operate the drone (when turning it on, & connecting to the remote controller).
• Every image can be stamped with the time, date & GPS location. Note that this is an optional feature; not compulsory. Useful for farm image recording of pasture, crops etc (as well as search & rescue, etc). This could also be used to prove drone pilots were operating illegally and be valuable protection against false accusations from paranoid members of the public or vexatious claims.  (Although the flight data also does this already, on other DJI drones.)
• ‘Local data mode’ prevents data from being sent to the internet via the mobile phone or tablet being used with the drone (security measure).
• DJI Air Sense: Air sense pics up ADS-B signals & displays them on screen. However, ADS-B: Automatic Dependence Surveillance-Broadcast signals out – or an equivalent – would ideally be compulsory on all manned aircraft but are currently only required on aircraft operating under IFR. Potentially useful for drone flights near airports but not further away, as manned aircraft using IFR are usually many thousands of feet up, between airports. Or where emergency aircraft are operating – but permission (as well as a licence) is required to fly in declared emergency zones.  Many aircraft do not use ADS-B. At some stage in the future it’s possible that all drones will be required to transmit location signals, to help ensure aviation safety.

The second version of the M2E drone is the ‘Dual’:

The Mavic 2 Enterprise Dual is fitted with a FLIR thermal camera as well as a standard camera for capturing visible light. Whereas the ordinary M2E is fitted with an optical zoom. Also included on the M2E Dual – a spot meter for measuring object temperature (eg re building fires) and some other temperature measurement features.  The Mavic 2 Enterprise Dual costs more again than the ordinary M2E, but worth consideration for anyone who could benefit from having an airborne thermal camera. It may also be useful for locating feral species such as pigs in scrub and tall crops such as cane. However I don’t recommend buying this original thermal drone because the resolution is so much lower than the later M2EA & M3T.

Unsurprisingly, Mavic 2 Enterprise drones cost a lot more than ordinary Mavics; and really the specs are way beyond what most farmers & livestock producers would end up using. M2E’s are drones to upgrade to, if the need becomes apparent; not drones to start from.

The 2021 updated version – the Mavic 2 Enterprise Advanced – has a far superior thermal sensor to the predecessor – so it shows far more detail. It also comes with a smart controller as standard, but the total price is at least twice the price of the original models.

Fiona Lake, catch-landing a Phantom 4Pro V2 drone – which must be done in a particular way to avoid injury. Props fitted to these drones look like plastic but they contain carbon or glass fibres and inflict very nasty cuts if mishandled. Catch landing is not recommended for drones which do not have landing legs. (Image by Townsville photographer, Cheryl Robertson).

7. DJI Phantom 4 Pro Version 2:

• DJI released their first Phantom drone onto the market in 2013.
• They stopped making the latest in the series, the Phantom 4 Version 2, in mid 2019 – but then started manufacturing them again in January 2020. And many people are hoping for a Phantom 5, with interchangeable lenses – more portable than an Inspire.
• It’s important not to confuse the V2 model with earlier models, as the V2 is a much better drone than the other P4s.
• The P4P V2 was DJI’s most expensive consumer level drone until a mysterious price change around 2020, when the Mavic 2 became more expensive to buy.
• Many secondhand Phantoms are still available and at reasonable prices – but, new filters are becoming harder to find and unfortunately batteries for older models are only available from third party manufacturers as DJI has discontinued production.
• Due to a combination of features, durability, ease of use and price – DJI’s Phantom drones were the world’s most popular consumer drone.
• The media still prefers to use the image of a Phantom drone when running drone stories, though the story may have nothing to do with DJI or their Phantom model.
• Phantom drones were upstaged by the portability of the Mavic drones which first appeared in 2016. This increased when the very popular Mavic 2 Pro model was released in 2018, with the same size image sensor as the Phantom 4 Pro Version 2.
• Phantom drones are not as portable as the Mavics so less practical for carting around. But Phantoms can squeeze into most carry-on suitcases (along with batteries, which must be in carry-on luggage, not checked baggage. But always check airline spec for rule changes, before flying.)
• If a Phantom is carted around a cattle station or farm it should be kept in a hard case – quite bulky and of course unsuited to a motorbike (although police traffic accident investigators carry the RTK model in motorbike panniers).  The upside is that if you get a good case you can get the drone out & going a lot quicker, and pack it up faster – there’s no stuffing around unfolding/folding it all and it is more durable. And a good hard case is ideal for a take-off and launch pad in dusty or wet conditions. The last benefit of hard cases? Should a battery self-combust, a well sealed case could prevent your house from burning down. (Battery safety is covered in detail during Rural Drone Academy training.)
• Because Phantom drones have legs, they can be safely catch-landed (with the right technique) – thus keeping them out of dust and moisture when landing.  The legs also provide a degree of protection against rough landings; keeping the gimbal, camera and other vitals further away from the ground, thus making them ideal for farm & station use.
• Phantom 4 drones have a mechanical shutter which means they are suited to producing accurate maps, unlike drones with a rolling shutter.
• Partly because the Phantoms have been around longer than Mavics and partly because Phantoms are better suited to mapping, there is a larger number of apps available for Phantoms than for any other drones.
• Because Phantoms are now mostly used by more experienced drone operators and Mavics have proliferated, Phantoms have become viewed more as professional gear.
• Phantoms are more durable , with drone insurer stats showing that they typically receive less expensive damage when crashed.
• One feature that I absolutely love is that the Phantom drone multi-charger also has a ‘discharge’ button, which can put all 3 attached batteries into ‘discharge’ mode at the flick of a switch. This is extremely useful when you charge all the batteries up to 100% then get caught with unflyable weather or a change of plan.
• It’s also possible to fly Phantom 4 drones in ‘atti’ (attitude) mode – with the GPS turned off. This is vital safety training for GPS signal failure. It also enables smoother videos. The option of ‘atti’ mode is why Phantom drones are preferred by better quality drone trainers, and still used by many. The only other DJI drones with ‘atti’ mode weigh more than 2kg and cost thousands more.
• The top-of-the-range DJI consumer drones, the Phantom 4 Pro V 2 and Mavic 2 Pro, produce photographs which are similar in quality but still not as good as photos from professional quality camera equipment used by photographers in planes and helicopters, or the far more expensive models of drones which allow interchangeable cameras.  (These drones weigh over 2kg, thus entering another licencing category; and full systems cost many thousands of dollars more). However the image quality of the P4P V2 & Mavic 2 Pro is close enough to be usable for most commercial photography purposes, if done with care.
• I’ve owned a Phantom 4, Phantom 4 Pro, and the Phantom 4 Pro V 2 (as well as smaller DJI drones, including the Mavic 2 Pro).  I don’t have the patience for faffing around with folding stuff and fiddly SD card removal and screen connection cords and prefer being able to put a tablet-sized screen straight into the P4 controller. I like the Phantom’s durability, ability to fly in strong winds, greater visibility (while still being small enough to carry onto planes) and I like catch landing to keep it out of the dust & dew. Plus the image quality matches the more popular, later model Mavic 2 Pro.  Phantom 4 drones are like the Toyotas of the drone world.

8.  Phantom 4 RTK (Real Time Kinematic) – industrial use:

• Specifically designed for more accurate mapping; by using RTK & avoiding the need for ground control points (which ensure map location accuracy).
• Thousands of dollars more than standard Phantom 4s, but thousands of dollars less than other drones designed for similar work.
• Not an entry level drone – this is for drone users who are serious about mapping & know what they’re doing.
• Now superceded by other models which fold, HOWEVER the Phantom remains favoured for mapping by many, because the newer enterprise drones don’t have a mechanical shutter.

9. Parrot Anafi (discontinued)

Parrot discontinued consumer drone manufacture in 2019 and now concentrates on producing commercial drones. The Anafi was roughly similar in specs to the original Mavic drones but cheaper.  I list the unique features of the Anafi as an example of why the drone industry needs a healthy range of manufacturers – a diversity of features to choose from, plus creative development. It is good to consider all main brands when purchasing. The features that differentiate the Anafi from DJI’s similar level models:

• Gimbal tilts 180 degrees – from right down to the ground and right up to the sky above (EG great for inspecting underneath structures such as bridges)
• Digital zoom (useful for inspecting stock without disturbing them)
• Hand launch and hand catch modes – with clear instructions (great for using on boats)
• USB cord charging for batteries and the controller. And it’s a ‘C’ port. (This is fabulously convenient – it means no lugging around a stack of chargers and forking out for overpriced essentials. DJI has one charger for using in vehicles and another for using with the mains power supply, and different chargers for every model of DJI drone)
• Wind resistance listed at 50 km/hour (much higher than Phantom & the largest Mavic drones, as they list wind resistance as being in the mid 30 km/hour range)
• Super quick and easy to download Google maps of specific areas (for use when away from mobile phone reception)

10. DJI Inspire & Matrice models:

• Inspire and Matrice drone systems cost thousands of dollars more than the much simpler sub 2kg Phantom and Mavic drones, mentioned above.
• These drones weigh more than 2kg, which means they can only legally be operated by licenced drone pilots. Except Australian primary producers flying over their own land (up to a 25kg weight limit). But refer to CASA’s website for the precise and current details on this.
• The batteries are larger so there’s restrictions on the number that can be taken on planes.
• These heavier drones are primarily used by professional cinematographers and for agricultural and research purposes – IE advanced uses (not just straightforward still photography).
• Not the drones to buy when you are starting out, these are drones to buy once a smaller, simpler drone is mastered and you are certain you really need something more sophisticated to accomplish the jobs you need to do.  And if you’re in business, you must also consider – will your clients want to pay the much higher rates that you’ll need to charge them, if using a much more expensive drone system? Mostly – they will not.
• Many of these heavier and more expensive drones were in the past sold to people who could have instead used a sub 2kg drone for the same purpose.
• Some of the advantages of a DJI Inspire 2 drone:  simultaneous recording of the data onto 2 different mediums (SSD & micro SD, so an on-board back-up is created instantly), camera with interchangeable lenses, greater redundancy (dual batteries, IMU & barometer; but only 4 motors, so no motor redundancy), GPS & GLONASS (navigation accuracy), higher top speed, front camera as well as the image-recording camera on the gimbal below (to allow 2 operators; 1 to operate the camera the other to fly the drone – for high-end/high risk jobs). Disadvantages of the DJI Inspire 2: many thousands of dollars more for the whole setup in total, compared to the next cheapest DJI photography drone. Thousands more for the drone and the camera; plus the extra accessories, & the SSD required has to be at least 480GB – more expense. Greater size and weight (airline transport more difficult and more expensive). Unless you’re doing commercial work every day or nearly, or big screen movie-quality cinematography, a new Inspire 2 is virtually impossible to justify, from an economic point of view.  Especially for anyone working a long distance from capital cities, who must carry a back-up drone, thus doubling the outlay of extra thousands of dollars. The Inspire 2 will however greatly impress clients who see it and for some drone operators, that may be a factor for consideration!

11. Spray drones (the most common spray drones used for weed treatment in Australia):

1. DJI (China) – DJI are the world’s largest manufacturer of consumer drones; the agricultural division has been added as an afterthought. There’s pros and cons of different brands – it’s best to compare all that are available.
2. XAG (China) – a company that specialises in drones for agricultural/land management use. Recently there have been good reports from customers on the Australian-based service staff & parts warehouse located in Australia.
3. Yamaha (Japan), RMAX – more like a chopper without a seat for a pilot, the RMAX is built like a tank, costs well over $100,000, requires extra training/licencing and it has to be hands-on flown by a remote pilot. (Rather than able to run a predetermined route autonomously, under the supervision of the drone pilot.)

Earlier drone companies didn’t realise agriculture was a potentially profitable industry so spray drones, such as DJI’s Agras, were developed long after consumer drones with cameras. Now there are a multitude of spray drone manufacturers, mostly based in China, but at present the above three are the most commonly used in Australia.

The Yamaha RMAX is a beast, looking like a small manned helicopter. And with a hefty price tag; $120,000+. Due to the RMAX’s size and cost it is not something commonly used at present or feasible for part-time work. Whereas the much smaller Agras and XAG spray drones cost less than $50,000 and while obtaining a licence to operate them is time consuming it is not too difficult for ordinary farm operators or regional drone spraying service businesses. Operators must have a Remote Pilot Licence and Operator’s Certificate (or operate under someone else’s OC); plus an APVMA permit (Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority).

At present there are relatively few spray drone operators in Australia and next to no training is available within Australia or other countries. However the industry is slowly expanding, as the immense benefits of aerial precision weed spraying are realised.

11. Other drone manufacturers:

There are a plethora of other consumer drones on the market, making up the other 20-30% of the world’s consumer drone sales. These of course have pros & cons but some are a lot cheaper. Most drone manufacturers are based in China. One leading brand based outside China is Parrot – based in France, and some drones are made by Japanese companies. The main alternative brands & better-known models:

• Autel – Evo. Autel is Chinese-owned but based in the US. They produce a range of Evo drones that are similar in size & specs to DJI’s Mavic Pro drones. The Evo II was created in late 2019 & available to the public in early 2020.
• Parrot – Anafi. Parrot is a French company; France has traditionally been a world-leader in the aviation industry, right from the outset. However the consumer level Anafi drone was discontinued in 2019 & Parrot is now concentrating on industrial drones.
• Yuneec – Typhoon H
• Skydio – Skydio 2 (relatively new brand; popular due to to autonomous flight capabilities)
• XDynamics – Evolve
• Hubsan – Xino

I took this photo at the Drone World Congress in Shenzhen, China, in 2019. Shenzhen is world’s centre for drone development, with nearly 300 drone companies, and quite a few spray drone manufacturers. Large drone conferences are good places to look for alternative drone brands and models.

Other drones used for agricultural jobs:

• Hexacopters, octocopters & fixed wing RPAS (including VTOL) – can fly in stronger winds, carry heavier payloads, fly longer/cover larger areas and have other sensors & equipment attached to them.  But they are bulkier, heavier, more complicated, cost a lot more and most require CASA licencing to legally operate.  As mentioned above, these are not drones for beginners.
• Note also that additional licencing and approval is required to operate a spray drone of any kind.

Larger, more expensive drones usually have greater redundancy. EG they have dual IMUs and compasses, multiple batteries and motors. Flying near people, around buildings and beyond visual line of sight requires drones with maximum fail-safe measures built in. But drone hardware is relatively simple compared to software; hardware rarely fails. Drone software is incredibly complex and this is where problems most often occur.

As is the case for mobile phones, the specs of earlier model drones aren’t as good as the latest.  If you’re buying a drone for someone who is likely to crash it, then an earlier model or secondhand is the way to go.  Bearing in mind – like general aviation, current drones are sophisticated machines that only crash due to pilot error (including lack of planning & foresight) – with the exception of software or hardware failure (that is not due to mistreatment or lack of software or hardware maintenance).  Drone pilots should not rely on obstacle avoidance systems, for example.  These are topics that are covered in drone workshops.

Summary of which drone to buy, when you are weighing up priorities & options:

• Firstly – I don’t recommend buying a ‘small drone just to start with, then upgrading’. Because: a) bigger drones such as the Phantoms & Mavics are just as easy to fly as smaller drones with GPS; & b) a small drone is just a waste of money, if small doesn’t really do what you want it to do.  If you’re not sure if you’ll like flying drones, I recommend attending a training workshop or heading out to fly a drone with a friend who owns one. Or buying a cheap secondhand drone or old model because if you buy well, you can usually sell a secondhand drone for not much less than you paid for it, if you want to upgrade or ditch drone flying altogether (as long as you don’t hang onto it for too long).
• What you choose to buy boils down to budget and use. If you want good drone image quality & to be able to open the case & fly your drone with the minimum amount of fuss setting it up; something confidence building and with the best sub 2kg visibility – consider the latest model Phantom you can find secondhand (also best for catch-landing, which is an important factor for boaties and most users in rural environments).
• If top consumer video & low light image quality is paramount – buy a Mavic 3. But due to ongoing glitches, I don’t recommend this model for beginners. It’s also a lot to spend if you aren’t sure whether you’ll like flying drones or not.
• If low cost, ultra portability and reasonable image quality are your main concerns – buy a Mini 3.
• If you just want the cheapest, smallest/lightest drone to fly indoors – buy a Tello.
• If buying a drone for young children – you could buy a very small drone for less than two hundred dollars, such as a Ryze Tello.  The Parrot Mambo was an ideal drone for primary school age children to learn to fly because it is small and light but surprisingly tough, comes with prop guards for safety and doesn’t require complicated software updates or a licence to operate – but unfortunately it has been discontinued. (Also note; children flying drones  of any size should also be supervised, and wear protective glasses.  More advice for parents is included in the drone workshops I run.) These small drones are best flown indoors. Plus, there’s some fun but educational free-to-download software such as Tynker that kids can use to programme (code) the drone.  But these small drones are learning tools, suitable for indoor flying not for farm or station work.  The smaller & cheaper the drone the harder they tend to be to fly, but this is great training for kids.
• Remember that whatever drone you buy, it’s likely to be superceded by a much better model within 12-18 months. Durability isn’t something you should need to consider; as for safety reasons, drones should be looked after, to ensure they don’t fall out of the sky or burn your house down.
• Essential accessories should be factored into budget calculations (details of what drone accessories are vital and what are superfluous, are included in longer drone workshops).
• Drones used as genuine tools with an authentic track record of helping to produce income can be claimed as a tax deduction (but do check with your accountant for details).
• Also – check when the model you’re considering was created. If it’s more than 12 – 18months old it’s likely to be superceded (& discounted) soon.
• Buying secondhand – checking the hardware is obvious, but battery life must be scrutinised carefully also. Frequently used batteries will have a reduced charging capacity. (Best-practice battery care – to keep their charge capacity up – is detailed in drone workshops. Along with vital drone battery safety information.)  As with all secondhand electronic equipment, drone gear is best purchased from people you know well, or from well-established professionals/business owners.  If you buy secondhand gear well and look after it, it can usually be resold within a few months for a similar price.
• Do check the CASA website or with a fully licenced, well-respected training professional prior to purchasing, to ensure that what you want to do with your drone will be legal. (Not Facebook!) More information on safety laws towards the bottom of the post.
• If you’re buying a drone for someone who can’t be trusted to follow (safety) rules or who doesn’t look after gear (which can render a drone unsafe), do the world a favour and do not buy them a drone at all.  Drones should not be treated like toys and left with children, unsupervised.  (More on drone safety & laws, below; as well as in workshops.)

DRONE OBSOLESCENCE:

It’s vital to be aware of the recency of the model you’re buying. When new drone models are released production ceases for the old models. If it is a common model, then accessories and batteries will be available for quite a while – but it is something to be aware of. Two-three years is a good lifespan for a drone. Bear this in mind when buying – the more expensive the drone you buy, and the more accessories, the more expensive it is to upgrade  every few years. Eventually new batteries do become hard to find.

Batteries are still readily available for the Mavic 2 Pro, Zoom and Enterprise because there are so many of them in use, and the Advanced Enterprise is a current model. Same goes for Phantom 4’s – the RTK model is still a current model, so batteries are still readily available.

Where to buy your drone, if buying new:

Today’s drones are like ducks swimming. They’re easy to fly – because there’s so much work going on out of sight. Drones will evolve in ways we can’t imagine but they’re already extremely sophisticated machines. Very complex software means much can go wrong and glitches aren’t uncommon, testing the patience of even the most dedicated of problem solvers.

If you’re buying a Mavic or Phantom drone or anything larger/more expensive, the benefits involved in buying from a good quality, local specialty retailer are really worth having.  Yes you may be able to get your drone out of the box and just fly it, but there’s a good chance that sooner or later you’ll have a headache that’s hard to solve on your own.

The sorts of services provided by good drone retailers – drone specialists who really know the market:

• Reliable advice on what drone and accessories will best suit your specific purposes (the vast majority of drone retailers are clueless and some are unethical. I personally know several drone retailers who have told primary producers they can legally fly drones out of sight).
• Set the drone up for you – download the latest software & ensure everything is functioning as it should (this really matters, because like all tech, some drones are lemons from the outset & if you’re new to drones, you won’t know what’s a machine problem & what’s operator error).
• Hands-on introduction, at a low or no cost.
• Provide basic advice on where to get information re laws and operation.
• Give locally specific tips eg maximum or minimum operating temperature for your drone batteries, good spots to learn to fly.
• Provide assistance with trouble-shooting.
• Repair your machine or assess & send it away for you.
• Help with warranty claims.

Bear in mind that very, very few people who are selling drones, actually know anything about them. They may sound entirely plausible – but ask them if they fly drones themselves (and if so, what model/s).

Buying drones overseas:

• Unlikely to be covered by warranty in Australia, only in the country of purchase.
• There are airfreight restrictions on lithium batteries, so freight could be an issue.
• Starves local drone retailers of the profit they need to enable them to provide quality after-sales service (& local employment) & stock a wider range of drone, parts & accessories – you know those last minute items you need.

Please note: This drone buying summary was first written in November 2017, and last updated in February 2023.  The above information is kept as current as possible but drone specs and federal laws governing drone operation change frequently.  CASA’s website should be checked for current licencing and operating laws before flying or purchasing a drone.  If you are on my mailing list as a book buyer, or have attended one of my drone workshops, don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any specific queries.

A Mavic 2 Pro on an improvised landing mat, at the 2019 Blackall Cultural Association 2 day drone workshop. Funded by the Blackall Shire Council and Regional Arts Development Funding (RADF).

Drone courses & workshops:

I run drone courses and workshops around Australia. When dates and details are confirmed, they are listed on the Next Events page.

If you found this post useful, you’ll really enjoy the drone workshops.  If you’d like to be notified if a drone training session is held in your area, send me a message.

Drone information blog posts

• I’ve written a number of posts containing information I wish I could have found at the outset. The drone topics below are either not covered by anyone else at all, incompletely or inaccurately.
• All the information in these posts is included in Rural Drone Academy training, to some degree, but with the addition of many other useful topics, entertaining examples, participant Q & A’s and networking.

1. Rural Drone Academy workshops & training – want to lift your flying up to another level, solve some drone issues, or you need a hand to gets started? These workshops are useful for all skill levels, ages and backgrounds.
2. Next workshops plus previous events – upcoming events you can attend. Previous events are also listed, which will give you an idea of the regions covered, themes and the diversity organisations hosting them.
3. Comments from participants – forthright opinions from people who have attended drone sessions held in four states.
4. The principles of drone safety & laws – essential reading for every drone pilot. Accompanied by impressive ‘fail’ stories, during Rural Drone Academy training.
5. How to set up a drone business – how to steam ahead – use time, energy & money to maximum effect – and avoid pitfalls. Included in drone workshops in detail, if applicable to participant interests.
6. What is the best drone to buy for a beginner?  Objective information to help you decide. The internet is full of drones that have hardly been flown because they didn’t suit the buyer’s purpose. Don’t join them!
7. What is the best drone to buy? Comprehensive information on the most common consumer models to help drone pilots upgrading or seeking a drone for a specific task. (Information on this page.)
8. Buy a drone now, or wait for the next model? Information on previous drone model releases.
9. Is a Crystal Sky screen worth buying?  The pros and cons compared to using phones and tablets as screens, from an objective point of view.

If you are interested in attending Rural Drone Academy training don’t hesitate to contact me by email or ring the business-hours phone number listed below.

PLEASE NOTE: As applies to the rest of this website – the content on this page is protected by copyright.

Agricultural drone photography – irrigated rice, Riverina (NSW)

Fiona Lake – qualifications & experience:

• Chief Remote Pilot/Operators Certificate for RPAS (ReOC), Remote pilot licence (RePL), Aviation Radio Operator’s Certificate (AROC), and certified night UAV training.
• 2021, Industry award for Education & Safety, from the largest drone organisation in Australia – AAUS.
• 2020, invited to join two federal government National Emerging Aviation Technology working groups.
• 2018, named as one of ten ‘Women to Watch in UAS (drones)’ globally, by Chicago-based Women and Drones.
• Many drone flight hours in a wide range of agricultural environments, in every Australian state & territory.
• To date I’ve owned and flown 10 different drones.
• 30+ years of professional aerial photography experience.
• I have undergone drone-related education/training at various locations between Victoria and Far North Queensland; as well overseas.
• I’ve run drone presentations (hands-on training, workshops, masterclasses, panel sessions & keynote addresses) across Australia, from capital cities to remote regions – in every state except WA. To date, invited to present at drone conferences on 4 continents – and invited back.
• By April 2019 there were just 33 fully licenced (RePL + ReOC) female drone pilots in Australia; and I’m one of them. There’s more women shearing sheep than licenced drone pilots. We need more role models, for the sake of healthy diversity.
• The drone workshops I run are holistic; a healthy variety of useful information is discussed and entertaining stories are shared.

Interested in attending a drone pilot masterclass, to learn everything you need to know to fly safely, enjoyably and productively?  Or you’ve done a bit of flying and would like to get to the next level? Let me know via the contact form.

Fiona Lake and other invited speakers at the aerial agricultural spraying conference in Nanjing (China), 2019. Drone conferences are well worth attending, to learn from speakers and see the latest technology developments at the trade show.

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