Tilt down flagpoles have a pin which, when removed, allows you to lower the flagpole to the ground so you can replace the parts. It is an upfront expense that can save you big in the long run. We look forward to seeing more pictures from Roberts as he finishes up the flagpole.

Updated Letter From Brent Alexander after the 2011 Chicago Marathon:

I run for the Fleet Feet / Nike Elite Racing Team in Chicago. I train with two other guys, Matt Blume and Todd Ptacek, who are also on the team. We have been training the past 3 months for the marathon using Coach Leach’s marathon training program he designed for the three of us. We all run different weekly mileage, but I try to keep my miles consistently between 80-105 per week. After completing training and running that volume we estimated we were in close to 2:22 marathon shape or 5:25 pace per mile.

The plan was to run together as a group and to help each other along the way. If one of us got dropped the other two would help to keep the group together by taking the lead. We had done all of our workouts together, in almost perfect lock step, so it made sense to race together.

The morning of the race was a bit chaotic. We met at the Elite Development tent but had very little time to prepare as the race organizers asked all of us to line up almost 30 minutes early. This was a surprise, and allowed for almost no warm up. Coach Leach advised all of us to take it easy the first few miles and use that as our warm up.

When the race began, it seemed like two hundred some odd runners went out in a fury, passing us by. Matt, Todd and I did not panic and just formed a group as we had planned. We stuck to the planned pace of 5:25. Race day was under a “Yellow Flag” which meant the conditions were not ideal for racing. Temperatures at the start were in low 60’s and forecast to climb to 70 degrees under sunny skies by 10am when we expected to finish. This was quite warm compared to our training the past 6 weeks so we were a little concerned but hopeful the low humidity in the air would help mitigate the effects from warmer conditions.

Over the first 10k it felt like we were all trying to get warmed up and find a rhythm. I led most of the miles but enjoyed the front of the pack since it was a little cooler leading, breaking the air. I was unsure if the pace was too fast for me as I had never raced a marathon this fast but tried to remain calm and confident I could run the pace.

We eventually caught up to another Fleet Feet runner, Jim Akita, around mile 7. We formed a tight pack with him and began to all head South back though downtown. I tried to avoid the lead in this direction as you could feel the wind out of the South. Unfortunately, nobody really wanted to lead so I took some of the front running through this stretch but not all of it. Mile after mile was nearly dead on pace, or 2-3 seconds slow, but I was chalking that up to the weather and the fact that we didn’t understand how fit we really were. The three of us were running at a pace we had never raced the marathon at before.

My main focus was to be completely present. My past marathons were barely sub 2 hours and 30 minutes so I did not want to drag those experiences into this one. I wanted to be free to run whatever pace I felt I could do. We went through the half in 1:11:39, right on pace to run 2:23 flat. At this point I was in a groove and was just trying to ignore the warmer weather and enjoy running in one of greatest marathons in the world with millions of spectators cheering.

The feeling of excitement and joy running together did not last much past the half way mark, as our group broke apart by mile 14. I had already led much of the race and had suspected some of my teammates were struggling more than normal since they were so reluctant to lead early on. I could feel the sun heating up the air but it felt so dry I tried to ignore this fact. Todd was about 5-10 yards back so I was hopeful we could still run together. I slowed down to meet up with him but could tell he couldn’t maintain our 5:25 per mile pace. So I had to, with regret, run ahead and try to run the rest of the race alone.

I could visualize the finish now but was concerned the heat was slowly beginning to take its toll. At this point, it was about management. I needed to not make the race seem insurmountable. I wanted to just focus on getting through mile 20 and then reassess and make a push for the finish.

I took my third Accel Gel at mile 16, the first two were at mile 5 and mile 10 and were my only source of electrolyte replacement as I was taking water at every aid station, all part of Coach Leach’s fueling plan. The Accel Gel has a protein component that most gels do not. By taking fuel that has a little bit of protein you help the body to not experience a “sugar crash” late in the race. I could feel the Accel Gel helping but it was also very hard to digest and made me a bit uneasy since my stomach was already full of water. I had been drinking and throwing water over my head at every aid station. I slowed a few seconds at mile 16 or mile 17 but thought it was mostly due to the gel upsetting my stomach. I recovered a bit and got back onto pace but not for long.

Around mile 19, in my opinion the loneliest and most uninspiring part of the course, I began to feel the wheels coming off. I wasn’t sure if I was caving and then all of a sudden I was really suffering. It all happened so fast, a sign of the heat setting in. My pace slowed 10-20 seconds a mile and then I just had to walk. I knew my personal best effort was over.

I had luckily chosen to walk next to an aid station, near mile 22. Hundreds of volunteers urged me to continue running but I was stumbling left and right barely able to walk. They handed me cups of water and so I took a drink, splashed some on my head and took my final Accel Gel. They even pushed me up when they thought I was going to stumble and fall into a table full of cups of water. I didn’t want to drop out like I did in ‘07 so I began to run again after I recollected myself and caught my breathe. I was running again, but only crawling along at 9-10 minute pace.

It was a few minutes later when I saw Ricky and Kyle, some friends of mine, who urged me to pick it up. They said, “Brent, you’re just outside the top 50. You’re doing really really well!” My legs were still struggling to run faster than 8-9 minute pace but that actually lifted my spirit because I didn’t know where I stood, I had just remembered being passed by 200 people right at the start and having caught very few since then.

I got through mile 23 in about 8 minutes, over two and a half minutes slower than my planned marathon pace of 5:25 per mile, but begin to feel the life coming back into my legs. I made the final turn onto Michigan Ave, about 5k out. My dad and brother were there and our family friend, Joe De Young. I wanted to run hard for them and for the other people who came to cheer so I stopped slouching, shortened my stride and started pumping my arms. This allowed me to speed back up! I was thrilled and seemingly pretty comfortable to maintain this effort. It wasn’t 5:25 pace but it wasn’t slow. The wind was at my back again and I could visualize the finish!

My family and Joe kept cheering me on as they rode along Michigan Ave. Cops were urging them to get off the street but they ignored this fact, they knew I needed the encouragement. I made the last turn up Roosevelt Bridge, clocking a 5:43 26th mile. I saw three men directly ahead of me. I knew I was already doing well but I was now going for place. On the final straight I positioned myself to the right, then turned on the speed in the final 100m and passed this small group. I finished in 2:27:45, about 10 seconds slower than my personal best. I had just run an 8 minute mile in a marathon and still came within 10 seconds of my personal best! I couldn’t believe it. It was a hot day, I had gone out gutsy at close to 5:25 pace, fallen apart and then was somehow revived and able to finish the race.

It turned out, I was 51st overall and the 2nd fastest finisher from Illinois. What else can I say but it was a great race even though it wasn’t my time goal.

2011 Bank of American Chicago Marathon Splits…
5:26
5:28
5:28
5:27
5:26
5:26
5:19
5:38
5:35
5:23
5:26
5:27
5:28
5:24
5:29
5:27
5:29
5:30
5:27
5:37
5:48
5:56 (Began to blow up)
7:45ish (Stopped to walk and stopped watch briefly so don’t know exact split; close to 8 minute pace)
6:02 (Regrouped and got back into a rhythm)
5:46
5:43
1:15ish

Participant

Name (CTZ) Alexander, Brent (USA)
Bib number 447
Age group 30-34
Age 31
City, State Chicago

Race info

Start Time 07:30:04
Est.Finish -

Totals

Place (M/W) 46
Place (ag) 13
Place (total) 51
Time total (netto) 02:27:45

Splits

Split Time of day Time Diff Min/mile Miles/h
05K 07:47:03AM 00:16:59 16:59 05:28 10.98
10K 08:03:59AM 00:33:56 16:57 05:28 11.01
15K 08:21:05AM 00:51:02 17:06 05:31 10.90
20K 08:38:01AM 01:07:58 16:56 05:28 11.01
HALF 08:41:43AM 01:11:39 03:41 05:25 11.09
25K 08:54:56AM 01:24:53 13:14 05:28 11.00
30K 09:11:59AM 01:41:56 17:03 05:30 10.94
35K 09:29:48AM 01:59:45 17:49 05:45 10.46
40K 09:50:07AM 02:20:04 20:19 06:33 9.18
Finish 09:57:48AM 02:27:45 07:41 05:39 10.65

The FlagRunners from FlagDesk are going to run the Veterans Marathon in Columbia City, Whitley County, Indiana and we are 60 days out. We thought we might go and check out the race, see what it is all about. Each year, the marathon is dedicated to a different branch of the military. This year, the marathon is dedicated to the Marine Corps. 2011 is stacking up to be a great year coming off of the 10th anniversary of the 9/11 tragedy and should be a great race.

The course is a bit hilly, but not too bad. With official chip timers, this race is an official qualifier for the Boston Marathon, so you know it brings in top quality athletes that know how to be dedicated and come to race. Much of the race is relatively flat and the course has nice soft turns, this marathon is for these reasons a nice option for those runners looking to qualify.

As FlagRunners, we like to take it a step further. Columbia City has an emerging and vibrant American Legion and a community that is always hosting veterans events. There can be anything found from the motorcycle rally to the various festivals the community host annually. And the spirit of the flag is always a celebrated focal point. Businesses in the area contribute to the events and take part in the festivities.

Being apart of the Veterans Marathon doesn’t just mean you have signed up for a race, but that you are about to take part in a community experience. Columbia City has a great flag story and we are proud to be apart of the 2011 Veterans Marathon. Look forward to a post review of the race in November. Did you know the most influential Hoosier of all time was born in Whitley County? We will be telling you all about the man that said, “What this country needs is a good 5 cent cigar.”

See you at the start line.

In this video, we show you haw to assemble each component of a flagpole, raise the flagpole, and level it according to the area. This is the next step to take after the flagpole foundation has been set, whether you are using a foundation sleeve or anchor bolts with a shoe base. Click here for a helpful guide and video on foundation sleeve installation for in-ground flagpoles.

How To Assemble And Raise A Flagpole

While there are many steps involved to flagpole installation, it is very possible to install and raise a commercial flagpole of up to 35 feet with only three people. If you are trying this for the first time, it doesn’t hurt to have a few more people on hand. It is a great project for the community, organization, or employees. The end result can be a wonderful experience, personal connection, and lasting asset to any building, park, or other facility.

Having a commercial flagpole is not isolated to the commercial market. In other words, you don’t need a business to have a commercial grade flagpole. There are many ways to be a flag flyer, many great products out there, and many different size, types and styles of flags to fit just about any situation. Having a commercial-grade flagpole is one of the best ways to compliment the flag and add value to your property. There is a remarkable difference between this and a residential flagpole. Not only in beauty, but also in durability. At the same time, getting one of these flagpoles requires special freight and other factors. It is best to do your research, find out exactly what works best for your area, and feel confident you have all the tools you need to produce an incredible display. Click here for a great place to start researching flagpoles.

Check Your Parts

First thing is first. When the flagpole comes off the truck, you want to inspect your parts to make sure everything is in good shape. If anything looks dented or is not working properly, please contact your provider. Chances are these parts may need to be replaced. It is easier to replace parts now, than to have to replace flagpole parts after installation. In this video, we are installing a ECXA30 SATIN ALUMINUM FLAGPOLE WITH STANDARD ACCESSORIES. These flagpoles, as all our aluminum flagpoles also come in other colors and finishes. Click here for help on choosing the proper flagpole finish.

We first examine all our flagpole components:

1.

SB105 5" GOLD ANODIZED ALUMINUM BALL ORNAMENT

2.

RTS-1-125 SILVER ALUMINUM TRUCK 1/2"

3.

PH10 60' SILVER BAGGED POLYPROPYLENE HALYARD

4.

CL9 9" SILVER STANDARD CAST ALUMINUM CLEAT

5.

ESSZ 3-1/2" NICKEL PLATED ZINC SWIVEL SNAP

6.

EVC-G 3-1/2" GRAY VINYL SNAP COVER

7.

5" x 12" x 1-3/4" SILVER ALUMINUM COLLAR

8.

FS-38 3 x 8" STEEL FOUNDATION SLEEVE

After you have checked these flagpole components, there is one more thing to check. That is shaft of the flagpole itself.

Unwrap the flagpole out of the cylinder carton and remove the carton paper. This step is essential. If you leave the flagpole wrapped in a moist or damp place, the brown dye of the paper will leak and stain the flagpole. Click here for more information on the properties of aluminum.

First look for any dents, blemishes, or scratches on the flagpole. Minor scratches will will be unnoticeable once the flagpole is installed, but you want to make sure the integrity of the shaft is still good. In very rare cases, will we find a shaft that has fouled during transportation.

Next, look at the threading at the top of the flagpole. Make sure the threading on the inner diameter ID of the flagpole is smooth and even. If there the threading has irregular grooves or fragments sticking out, you don’t necessarily have to return the shaft. The best remedy is to use a file and carefully sand down and re-smooth these areas. Remember, the truck is not built to screw all the way down to the flagpole shaft top, it merely seats into the flagpole with 5 or so turns.

Finally, check for 2 drilled holes for the cleat by the base of your flagpole. If the holes are not drilled, you don’t have to return the flagpole shaft either. Drilling through the aluminum is easy and requires a standard drill. It is best to install the flagpole and drill once the flagpole is raise. That way you can place the cleat exactly as you want it. Use the cleat to make the hole pattern.

Note: For commercial flagpoles with multiple sections, check the male and female ends of the flagpole for any irregularities. Just as in the threads at the top, you may have to file down these ends for a better fit. Click here for information on flagpole sections.

Assembling the Flagpole

All of your flagpole parts check out, it’s time to assemble the flagpole. You do not have to go in this order, but this is what we find best. We are going to assemble the truck with the halyard.

RTS-1-125 SILVER ALUMINUM TRUCK 1/2″ & PH10 60′ SILVER BAGGED POLYPROPYLENE HALYARD

Taking your halyards and put one end through the pulley of the truck. Tie the halyard together as you see below. You can put the tape on before or after raising the flagpole. One of the benefits of putting the tape on afterwards is that you can adjust the halyard if you have to. A benefit to taping the rope before is that is you are not confident in the knot, you can be sure the rope will not fall down during flagpole raising.

Step 1 – Create two overhand knots.

Step 2 – Tighten both overhand knots.

Step 3 – Pull knots together tightly.

Step 4 – (Optional) Tape loose ends.

Hand screw the revolving truck into the thread of the flagpole. Once you can not screw the truck thread any longer, use a heavy-duty wrench (plumber’s wrench or lock tight) to seat the truck into the flagpole top. You do not need to force the flagpole truck to be set all the way, there should be some threads still showing. (For cap style trucks – WARNING: position pulley of the truck to be in line with the cleat. to assemble the truck to the flagpole, slip the truck over the top of the flagpole. Tighten each screw partially, rotating between screws. Check to make sure the truck and pulley are level or perfectly perpendicular to the flagpole. Once the truck is level and the screws are touching the aluminum wall of the flagpole, seat the truck by biting the set screws into the aluminum.) Here is more information on Flagpole Trucks.

	Stationary Cap Style	Stationary Threaded Type	Revolving Cap Style	Revolving Threaded Type
External Halyard Poles with Single Pulley	ST-1 Series  ST-32 Series OT Series Fiberglass-1 Series		RTC-1 Series	RTS-1 Series  HDT-1 Series XHDT Series
External Halyard Poles with Double Pulley		Fiberglass-2 Series	RTC-2 Series	RTS-2 Series  HDT-2 Series 150 Series BA Series
Internal Halyard Poles with Single Pulley	IH-1 Series	IHT-VS Series  Fiberglass-IH Series		IH-2 Series

Flagpole Trucks Vocabulary

• Stationary Trucks – do not revolve around the top of the flappole.
• Revolving Trucks – revolve or rotate with the wind around the top of the flappole.
• Cap Style – are designed to fit over the top of the flagpole and are secured with 1/4″-20NC stainless steel set screws.
• Threaded Type – have a 1-1/4″ NPT threaded spindle which screws into the top of the flagpole.
• Single Pulley – for flagpoles with a single internal or external halyard.
• Double Pulley – for external halyard flagpoles with a double halyard.

SB105 5″ GOLD ANODIZED ALUMINUM BALL ORNAMENT

You have strung the flagpole truck with the halyard, tied the halyard and attached the truck to the top of the flagpole. Now it is time to attach the flagpole ornament. In this case, a 5″ Gold Anodized Ball Ornament. First make sure the set screw located on the top of the flagpole truck is open. Using only the stem, gently screw hand screw the stem into the truck opening at the top. This hole at the top does has a bottom. There should be some threads showing on the stem of the ornament. Tighten the set screw and bit into the aluminum threads on the stem of the ornament. Use the bolt to secure the ornament to the flagpole truck.

CL9 9″ SILVER STANDARD CAST ALUMINUM CLEAT

The top of the flagpole is now assembled, truck, ball ornament and pulley system. Moving down to toward the base of the flagpole you will find two drilled holes for the stainless steel screws to secure the cleat. The cleat can be installed either side facing the truck. Position the screws into their corresponding holes, hand tight the screws and use a standard flat head screw driver to tighten one screw, but don’t tighten completely. Move to the adjacent screw and tighten completely. Then finish the first screw. this method, as shown in the video, prevents the stainless steel screws from scoring the threading of the aluminum flagpole and ensures a nice fit. Take the halyard or rope and tie off on the cleat.

5″ x 12″ x 1-3/4″ SILVER ALUMINUM COLLAR

It is very easy to dent an aluminum flash collar. Whether the flash collar is on the flagpole, or waiting to be installed. Remember to keep the flash collar in a safe place away from anything that might scratch, stain or dent it during installation. for example, concrete can not be removed from the aluminum once it is dried. It is best to keep the flagpole parts away from the site while installing the foundation sleeve. Slide the flash collar up from the base of the flagpole to just below the cleat. Use tape to secure the flash collar temporarily. Stuffing paper between the flash collar and the flagpole can help protect both the flash collar and flagpole while ensuring the flash collar wont fall during raising. If the flash collar falls, it will make, raising, leveling, and filling the foundation sleeve a lot more difficult. Although once the flagpole is raised, you can always re-tape the flash collar.

ESSZ 3-1/2″ NICKEL PLATED ZINC SWIVEL SNAP & EVC-G 3-1/2″ GRAY VINYL SNAP COVER

You can put the snaps and covers on before the flagpole is raised or you can put them on after it is raised. The most important part, is that the top of the flagpole is done properly because that is the most difficult to reach from the ground. You must first attach the snap cover. Pinch the rope or halyard and punch it through the small opening of the cover. Then as shown below (and in the video) pinch the rope through the bottom eyelet of the swivel snap and cross the loop over the spring loaded snap. Tighten the rope and pull the cover over the snap. If you put the snaps between the knot, you get a few benefits. First, you can easily measure how far the snaps should be apart. Second, it is more difficult to see the knot from the ground as it is near the top of the flagpole and covered be the canvas header. Third, the canvas header of the flag acts as a safety. The the rope breaks at the knot, the header will keep the rope in tact so you can replace the rope with a bucket truck.

Attaching a swivel snap to halyard.

Raising the Flagpole

USMC War Memorial

Raising a flagpole is very much like the classic symbolic status, the USMC Wat Memorial. But instead of everyone actively raising the flagpole, you want to have someone anchoring the flagpole at the base while the other people walk the flagpole up. The but of the flagpole needs to be against the ground sleeve at all times. Be sure to go slow. You do not want to drop the flagpole and risk injuring someone or the flagpole itself. Once the flagpole is vertical, do not drop the flagpole onto the pyramid-shaped welded re-bar at the base of the foundation sleeve. Slowly lower the flagpole onto the pyramid shaped re-bar. This pyramid will help when it comes time to level the flagpole. Pour sand in an even way around the flagpole between the flagpole and wall of the foundation sleeve. Only fill enough so that the flagpole can be moved, but wont fall over. Now your flagpole is raised and set in the ground.

Leveling and Finishing the Flagpole

You are almost done. All the component are correctly assembled and attached to the flagpole. The flagpole has been carefully raised and just enough sand is sitting at the bottom of the foundation sleeve so the flagpole can be moved but wont fall over. Now it is time to level the flagpole, fill it with sand, finish with wedges, dirt, etc. and lower the flash collar. You need at least two people for this phase. One person at the flagpole to move the flagpole and another person several yards away judging the level of the flagpole by sight. The person at the base of the flagpole should have a level and get a general idea of whether the flagpole is sitting right. The person several yards out needs to pick building edges and other structures such as light poles to judge by eyesight whether the flagpole is level with the environment. The person several yards out also has to pick two points at roughly 90 degrees to make sure the flagpole appears level from 360 degrees (just as we show in the video).

Once the flagpole is in fact level, it looks parallel to surrounding buildings or structures and the level is right (please note commercial flagpole taper so the level will never read perfectly level), the foundation needs to be filled with sand. Pretty much any sand will do. The finer the sand, the easier it is to move the flagpole during leveling. Sand stiffens to 95% the hardness of concrete over a 6 week period. Once the sand is filled to the top of the sleeve, add water and let the sand compact. Add more sand and water until it is compact. On rare occasions, there will be am air pocket in the sleeve. This is more common on larger flagpoles. Wedges help prevent the flagpole from leaning as these air pockets settle. Wedges can be sticking up slightly from the sleeve because they will be covered by the flash collar. Place three wedges evenly around the flagpole between the sleeve and the flagpole.

Finish pouring the sand. Un-tape the flash collar and place it at the base of the flagpole on the sonotube molded pedestal. You can now finish the flagpole base however you need, dirt or otherwise. Your flagpole installation is complete. If you let the foundation sleeve concrete base dry over night, you can start raising the flagpole immediately. If you installed the foundation sleeve and raised the flagpole on the same day, you may want to wait a day or so to the fly a flag and let the foundation set up.