SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER-BOOK A COTTAGE BY 1 DECEMBER 2009 FOR CHRISTMAS OR NEW YEAR’S 2009 & RECEIVE 15% DISCOUNT

Rain Heron, the Americal owner of the cottages writes:-

Autumn has arrived. The decades-old chestnut trees in the ancient forests are dropping their huge copper-colored leaves, followed dutifully by their fruit, the spiky chestnut. In just a few days time, the almost-fluorescent lime green of the chestnut husks will fade into a fantastic shade of gold sienna, making the fallen chestnuts resemble a huge colony of sea urchins. In contrast, the shiny, smooth dark chestnut brown of the nuts will become strewn about on the forest floor and along the country roads, making them quite easy to harvest. The acorns follow suit, although the forest animals, including the red squirrels like the original ‘Squirrel Nutkin’ of Beatrix Potter fame, seem to scavenge them with great gusto.

The fall weather is truly heavenly in the microclimate that we enjoy near the Lot River in the Lot Valley with its crisp, chilly mornings giving way to warm, sunny days reaching up to 80º F in the afternoon sun. The sun becomes lower in the sky at this time of year and the cooler evenings are perfect for pulling on your favorite jumper and gathering around the fireplace with the smell of fragrant woods on the fire (I also like to throw a handful of rosemary in the flame for an extraordinaire, herbal perfume). You can also roast chestnuts right in the open fire with one of the chestnut pans with their heavy perforated bottoms, which gives off a heavenly and distinct aroma.

The change in season here is clockwork. The trees begin turning cheerful shades of yellow, gold and orange right on cue. The garden follows suit with the regional harvest of nuts including walnuts and hazelnuts with the delightful fruits of late summer becoming ripe for the picking, such as figs, apples and pears followed closely by the most gorgeous eating grapes at all the market stands. With the advent of the season, the geraniums and roses are still in full bloom and the hydrangeas are stubbornly holding onto to their summer blooms, now turning the most gorgeous shade of burnished red and the palest of pinks.

The banks of the rivers are laden with freshly fallen heart-shaped birch leaves and the leaf bed is soft and colorful. The silhouettes of the birch trees — particularly the silver birches — are quite dramatic against the clarity of the fall skies. The rivers change from their summer greens to deeper shades of blue, contrasting beautifully with the still green hillsides.

This is my favorite time of year to go on long walks through the French countryside. I enjoy walking along country roads where the pavement looks inky and the crushed granite shines likes diamonds in the gravelly parts in the bright, crisp afternoon sun and the clouds billow effortlessly. The gentle autumn wind caresses my face and the sound of the rustling leaves captures my imagination. The vistas of the patchwork-colored pastures and vineyards and stone farmhouses along the river are postcard-perfect. I marvel at the way the autumnal light accentuates the myriad of colors, particularly late in the day when the landscape resembles the painting, “Chestnut Tree in Bloom” by Renoir. The late afternoons turn to sunsets that are softer and subtler, with their signature corals, pinks and lavenders unique to this time of year.

Once again, it is “Au revoir” to summer and “Bonjour” to autumn. Autumn is here in its full regalia and I, for one, find it an unforgettable, comfortable and insightful time of year.

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One of the most important and well-known gardens in France at Chateau de Villandry(37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) has gone organic. No more synthetic seeds, chemical fertilisers or pesticides etc – just environmentally friendly insects and techniques.

In the heart of the Loire Valley on the south bank of the Loire west of Tours, the Chateau is well worth a detour.

The 16th-17th Century chateau and its gardens host “Kitchen Garden Days” (Les Journées du Potager) every September (25-26 September 2010) and the Night of 1000 Lights  (Les Nuits des Mille Feux) when the gardens are illuminated with candles each July (2-3 July 2010), both of which offer enhanced opportunities to view the spectacular gardens.

Château de Villandry
37510 VILLANDRY

Running until 31 January 2010  the exhibition retraces the life of the sex icon who was photographed and immortalised by the greats of film and still photography at a time when she came across as young, fresh, innocent and natural – especially after the post-war years of austerity.

The exhibition is divided into three sections and leads you through her life, (1)from her early days at home, through (2) the fun and excesses of the  life of St Tropez (83 Var, Provence) and the film star years and (3) since  the 70s she has been a passionate advocate for animal right issues.

In many ways she was responsible for the fame of St Tropez, which was previously a pretty but unknown small port on the Mediterranean. Today it is a magnet for rich, wealthy celebrities which becomes impossibly busy in high season – but in Spring and Autumn it is worth a visit, with great views across to Ste Maxime.

For more info see www.boulognebillancourt.fr (in French)
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Musée des Années 30 (MA30)

28 avenue André Morizet

92100 Boulogne-Billancourt

From a spectator point of view it promises a good day out in the Medoc – as although you miss the momentary flash of 100+ professional cyclists zooming past, you get to see ech rider individually and can make a whole day of it with the race taking 2 hours or so to pass.

For more info see www.letour.fr

This is a good route to avoid the long journey from the Midlands and North down to Dover, and the road connections from Zeebrugge are really good – an only about 3 hours from Paris – i.e. only about 20 minutes further than from Calais.

What better way to rediscover the magic of France than by immersing yourself in the colours, the culture and the party atmosphere that is the France Show 2010 – the UK’s largest celebration of all that makes France such a special place.

The Show includes a wide variety of French themes including cookery demonstrations; Travel, Language and French property seminars; the UK’s largest French property exhibition; Top French restaurants to eat at and a French Market selling produce and fashions,

For more info see www.thefranceshow.com/

…the established showcase of the Minervois, is preparing its annual fortnight-long festival of the senses –
art, culture and fabulous food – all designed to introduce you to the delights of the region.
An astonishing range of activities, from the creative arts, food and wine tastings, evenings of music ranging from jazz to the classics, strolls through the vineyards, cinema , theatre paying tribute to PierrePaul Riquet with Guy Vassal’s play “The Madman of the Canal”, a cabaret evening dining to the poetry of Charles Trenet….You can choose to follow an exciting and varied programme of events; alternatively you are welcome to organise your own tour around the region where a profusion of historic sites, workshops and exhibitions await you.

The programme includes a wide range of open-days at winemakers throughout the region including Minervois AOC, St Jean-de-Minervois and Minervois-la-Lavinière which include some great Languedoc reds, whites and dessert wines.

Where to stay?

Lille has many hotels at all levels of price and luxury.Hotel des Tours in the middle of the attractive Old Town or Le Brueghel very French and centrally situated in a quiet, pedestrian area near the station.

For a more intimate weekend options include interesting B&Bs such as Alix’s Garden and Canal Barge  Fantasia.

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Where to eat – recommended Again there is no shortage of eateries in Lille offering cuisines both local and international.

Two favourites, one for meat, the other for fish are l’Assiette du Marché (market plate) in rue de la Monnaie in Vieux Lille  and   L’Écume des Mers (sea spume) in rue des Pas close to the Grand Place. Both offer high quality dishes with excellent service.

Where to eat – gourmet

Without doubt the finest dining experience in Lille must be l’Huitrière (oystery) on the edge of Vieux Lille  (3 rue des Chats Bossus) – superb art deco setting and top notch fish (oysters, lobsters,  turbot etc) – certainly not cheap but a gastronomic delight! 4 Michelin knives and forks. You can also window shop (and buy) fresh fish and other delicacies in the front of the building.

Where to eat – value for money

There are plenty of more modest restaurants in Lille to suit all pockets – a typical bustling brasserie is Aux Moules (mussels) in rue de Bethune – a pedestrianised street  in the city centre.  They offer a full menu including their specialty – and a good Moules Frites can be unbeatable.

Local wine/drink -

The proximity of Belgium ensures that Beer is a local favourite. Many bars offer a wide range of interesting beers from Northern France, Belgium and beyond – and there are numerous micro-breweries in the centre of Lille such as Les 3 Brasseurs (3 brewers) in place de la Gare opposite Lille Flandres railway station.

Local food:
Fish features strongly in this Flemish part of France – Moules Frites (Mussels and Chips) is probably the most familiar local specialty – others not so recognisable – Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef stewed in beer), waterzoï (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and potjevleesch (literally “small potted meat”, a white meat terrine in aspic).
Local markets

The Wazemmes Market in place de la Nouvelle Aventure takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday mornings with food, flowers, fabrics and exotic products. Ine of the largest markets in France, it can also be one of the liveliest (up to 50,000 visitors some Sundays). Colourful, with a “Soho” atmosphere, you’ll often hear an accordion being played.

Shopping

No shortage of shopping opportunies in the City Centre – with several malls – e.g. the Euralille mall near the stations and may interesting small shops in the old town. For fine food shopping  the Meert  Café and Patisserie on rue Esquermoise home of the Meert Waffle, and Philippe Olivier  in rue du Cure St Etienne) for an excellent selection of bread and pastries.

Must see:

Vieux Lille, the Grand Place. the Chambre de Commece, the Hotel de Ville and  the fine flemish buildings around the Place du Theatre.

A bit of culture: The Palais  des Beaux Arts in place de la Republique houses prestigious collections of European painting (Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix…) and offers some peace away from the bustle and rumble of the city centre.

For a walk: For all that it is big modern city, it is worth a stroll around  Vauban Citadelle, just a short walk beyond the city centre. This impressive star-shaped castle on rue Vauban was built by Napoleon’s military archictect in the 17th century. As it is still used as a military barracks, you need to check with the local tourist office for those dates when it is open to the public. But there is the Vauban garden which the public can access at all times for a stroll.

For the children:Bring the children for the annual Christmas market when the Grand Place is transformed into a snowy Cavern with twinking lights and a Carousel – plus a busy Christmas market in nearby Place Rihour -full of seasonal cheer. (18 November – 31 December 2009)

Getting there:

Easy – being so close to the English Channel. Travel time to Lille by road/ferry – just an hour from Calais, less from Dunkerque – see P&O to Calais and Norfolkline to Dunkerque.

Or take the Eurostar to Lille

Getting around:

Transpole offers a comprehensive public transport network with a modern Metro system and 2 tram lines which cross the city centre and serve both railway stations. However most of the main points of interest are within walking distance of the city centre.

Staying longer?:The city is close to many of the First World War battlegrounds – e.g. Ypres and Paschendaele just over the border. Brussels and Waterloo are a bit further – and a favourite of mine is the art deco swinning pool at Tourcoing (part of the Lille conurbation) La Piscine – converted into an impressive Museum of Art and Industry – and it is on the Metro line about 40 minutes from Lille City Centre.

When to go?

Lively throughout the year, but you might consider

La Grande Braderie de Lille – the biggest flea market in Europe which runs across a weekend in early September each year with100 km of stands, 10,000 vendors and 1 to 2 million visitors! – but beware that the City gets very busy and the traffic is impossible on the Braderie weekend.

Lille Wine Fair of the independent winegrowers (Vignerons Indepenents) which is held mid-November (20-23 November 2009) – with the opportunity to taste and buy from winemakers from all across France.

Lille Christmas Market - late November to New Year – Carousel, Christmas Village and a real feel of Christmas (18 November – 30 December 2009)

An unmissable wine-themed rendez-vous involving encounters with winemakers, exhibitions, lectures, cultural activities and traditional local markets…

For example on Saturday 10 October there is a traditional market featuring local produce in the streets of the town centre;music; the pressing of the grape harvest by schoolchildren; taste workshops and an evening firework dispay.Festivities will end with a flourish on Sunday 11 October with tasting of the 2008 vintage, the arrival of the grape harvest by sea and traditional music and singing. – and a barbecue on the beach.

Banyuls AOC is a sweet fortified dessert wine made from older vines on the foothills of the Pyrenees close to the border with Spain. It is made mainly from the Grenache grape.

For more info on Banyuls wine see www.banyuls.com and on the wine festival

Paris plays host to Nuit Blanche with trails starting in the North of the City, with the artistic installations at the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. These works will cast new light on the Jean Jaurès Gymnasium, the Pailleron Swimming Pool and the CENTQUATRE artist hub. The courtyards located in the Marais and the Châtelet district will form the centre of the event. From Notre-Dame, a beautiful pedestrian trail will take you towards numerous places located between Luxembourg and the Quartier Latin on the left bank, normally closed to the public.

The three trails (Buttes-Chaumont, the centre of Paris and the Latin Quarter) are all connected throughout the night – e.g. metro lines 11 and 14 will run a frequent service all night – free between 2.00am and 5.30am.

For more info see www.paris.fr
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Another interesting cheese seldom seen in the UK is the Fourme de Montbrison which comes from an area known as Le Forez (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) between St Etienne and Clermont Ferrand. Similar to the Fourme d’Ambert this is a mild, soft blue cheese made from cows milk with its own AOC appellation.

The Fourme de Montbrison has only a small number of mould veins throughout and has a reddish rind. Its flavour is very mild with light nut and mushroom flavours.

On the weekend of 2-3-4 October 2009 the town of Montbrison celebrates its “Journées de la Fourme”

To accompany this mild cheese the local Cotes du Forez AOC wine which is made from Gamay would make a good choice – and this is also likely to be available to taste on the “Cheese Days”

For more info on Le Forez see www.foreztourisme.fr/

For more info on the cheese see www.fourme-montbrison.com

For more info on the Cotes dy Forez AOC wine see http://cotesduforez.fr

Over in Alsace, the Hugel family are producing a daily video diary of the 2009 harvest, so that you can see the process and get some insight into the 2009 vintage potential. Hugel is one of the top names in Alsace and produce some really excellent wines. So far everything is looking very promising with ideal conditions for autumn weather and the condition of the vines – see http://blog.hugel.com/en/harvest/

Some of Hugel’s range can be found in the UK at Adnams and other independent wine merchants.

Alsace on the eastern border with Germany is a surprising region – sheltered from oceanic influence by the Vosges mountains, the Alsace wine region enjoys some of the lowest rainfall in France (just 400-500mm or 16-20 inches per year) and is blessed with a semi-continental climate—sunny, warm and dry. The key varietals – Gewurztraminer and  Riesling produced here can be extraordinarily intense and elegant, and despite the Germanic shape of the bottle (and often the labels too) the wines are dry (unless they are late harvest versions) – for more info on Alsace wines see www.vinsalsace.com/

Karen Kitchener, owner of the Domaine with husband Nicholas, will be giving a tutored tasting of 3 of their Cotes de Gascogne wines on each day of the festival (2.30pm on Friday and Saturday and 10.30am on Sunday).

Since purchasing the vineyard in 2004, Nick and Karen have focussed on maintaining the reputation Domaine de Lauroux has held for generations – that of producing high-quality,award-winning wines, Floc de Gascogne and Bas-Armagnac.
The wines are now widely distributed across France, Belgium, Japan, Germany, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom.

Sounds like a good day out with plenty of food stalls to sample and the opportunity to hear about and try some good French wines from the winemaker.

For more info see www.nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk and for more on the Domaine de Lauroux see Armagnacs from Domaine de Lauroux

So the new guide might just tempt you to combine your trip with some cycling to improve your fitness and to enjoy the French landscape, sights and sounds at a more leisurely speed than that of the car.

Bien sûr, you know how beautiful France is. Well, consider this: it looks even lovelier when seen from two wheels. The soaring Alps…the château-dotted Loire?even surprisingly cycle-friendly Paris – no wonder cyclotouristes have been coming here since the 19th century.

Whether you want a gourmand’s tour through vineyard and farmland, or to conquer the principal climbs of the Tour de France in the High Alps, this guide gives you the best of France on two wheels.

Itineraries to suit all fitness levels

Elevation charts and detailed maps

Comprehensive listings for sleeping, eating and facilities along the way

Comprehensive coverage of Corsica

For more info see Cycling France (Lonely Planet Cycling Guide)

Lucy married a Frenchman, and was  fascinated by the different attitudes to life, sex, war, manners, TV, maternity and history which pervade the French. They clearly have an alternative world and local view, the roots of which she tries to describe and explain (often from personal experience) – but also with evidence from history and events. She describes how her own children grew up accepting many of these “foreign” attitudes.

Perhaps next time you see President Sarkozy or even retired President Chirac flirting with an attractive younger woman you might understand it better having read this book.

“The Secret Life of France challenges our preconceptions and debunks may of the myths – bleak and rosy – on which our view of France rests, Might we have something to learn from this most beguiling and infuriating neighbour?”

le lac d'Allier

Some placenames conjur up an image automatically – e.g. the Somme and World War One and Vichy, the ignominious seat of a disgraceful regime during the occupation of France by Hitler.

Yet get behind those images – and the Somme is a delightful landscape of rolling hills, sandy beaches and a haven for wildlife!

Similarly Vichy (03 Allier, Auvergne) is a pleasant and elegant spa town. It was apparently chosen by Marechal Petain as the seat of government because it had plenty of hotels which could be taken over for ministerial offices and accommodation for the bureaucrats.

It seems remarkably isolated compared to other cities in the so-called “free zone” – such as Lyon or Clermont Ferrand. And that situation, being off the major routes, makes it peaceful and relaxing.

The town possesses many fine hotels – and the Hotel de Ville – of the late 19^th Century – but nowadays there are plenty of modern buildings to house tourists or those who come for the beneficial effects of the Spa – Thermes – and the waterfront alongside the river/lake (the Allier)  offer more energetic pursuits.

To reach Vichy from the north take the A77 autoroute to Nevers and Moulins and beyond.

There is a train service direct from Paris Gare de Lyon – you can book tickets from London and the UK with RailEurope

Hotel de Ville, Vichy

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The locals are called Vichyssoises – also the name given to a classic cold leek and potato soup – so-named by the creative chef who lived near Vichy. Also known for Vicy Water – an effervescent mineral water which has been bottled in the region for many years.

The Segala is a rural area comprising part of the south Aveyron and northern Tarn departments.

The Segala is an old provencal region also known as the Land of the 100 Valleys. The area is a little known gem often by-passed by sun worshipers on the way to the Mediterranean.  Indeed the Aveyron boasts no less than 9 Plus Beaux Villages de France more than any other department. Among these is the bastide town of Sauverterre de Rouergue which has retained much of its medieval charm and throughout the summer many

medieval festivals are held here including the Fete de Bougie (8-9 August 2009)  and culminating with the chestnut and cider festival in October – Fete de la Chataigne (24-25 October 2009)
To the south of this region is Albi which is an absolute gem with its medieval streets and stunningly colossal 500 year old brick built cathedral. It is also the birth place of the artist Toulouse Lautrec and there is a fine museum of his work next to the cathedral : Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The region has to be one of the best undiscovered areas of France – stunning landscapes and few people!

Where to stay – Le Clot B&B- Owned and run by an English couple, Colin and Stephanie Evans, there are 3 double rooms for guests and all have private facilities. All rooms have been recently renovated keeping much of the character of the original buildings. Table d’hotes offered on request and using many ingredients from the garden or source them locally. Situated between Rodez and Albi.

Where to eat (recommended):

Le Papillon Restaurant 1, bis Rue Toulouse Lautrec, 8100 Albi. Tel 05 63 43 10 77. The restaurant specialises in American-Asian fusion and vegetarian cuisine – it is also excellent value for money.

Where to eat (gourmet):

Le Senechal in Sauverterre de Rouergue is an elegant Michelin starred restaurent. run by Michel Truchon – Tel. 05 65 71 20 00

Local food:

The Segala is noted for its ‘rosé’ veal from the many herds of limousin cattle -the Veau d’Aveyron et du Segala is renowned throughout France for its quality.

The other local delicacy is Tripoux a stew of veal tripe which is served for breakfast and special celebrations!!

Local wine:

This area is situated between the wine regions of Gaillac and Marcillac which both have AOC status. Gaillac AC wines are widely available in the UK and produce red, rose and white wines, the whites ranging from dry to rich dessert wines. Sparkling wines are also made here – look out for the Gaillac Perle AC – a very lightly sparkling wine made from the local L’En de l’El grape. (Gaillac Wine Fair in early August (8-9 August 2009)

Marcillac wines are seldom seen outside the local area.

Local markets: For authentic ‘French markets then Carmaux on Friday mornings and Villefranche de Rouergue on Thursday mornings are the best. For night markets where cooked food can be purchased from the producers and eaten on the spot – Sauverterre de Rouergue on Friday nights in July and August

Must see: The world famous Viaduc de Millau bridge that crosses the Tarn gorge designed by Sir Norman Foster is only an hour by car. Much closer is the Viaduc du Viaur – an impressive iron railway bridge which must have been as impressive to the visitors of the 1910s as the Millau viaduct is today!.

In Albi there is the Cathedral Saint Cécile and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum.

A bit of culture: Each year there is week long guitar festival in Albi (7-10 July 2010) and each August there is a festival of Ocitan music and poetry in Rodez

Shopping: Both Albi and Rodez have a good selection of retail outlets and nypermarkets – otherwise the small villages offer essentials and some interesting craft shops.

For a walk: The region has many marked ‘Randonee’ routes along river valleys and through wooded hills. The local tourism office offers a detailed itineraries and maps of walking trails.

For the children: Head for Cap Decouverte – a converted open cast mine now dedicated as a leisure site. It has water skiing, zip line, open air pool, beach, down hill cart track, dry ski slope, Between Rodez and Millau is Micropolis where the small world of insects can be explored. Or a litle further afield try the Velorail and Train Touristique de Larzac

Getting there: Fly to Rodez from Stansted and Dublin with Ryanair – or to Toulouse from numerous UK airports including Birmingham,

By car: Take the autoroute to Clermont Ferrand (A71) and then the A75 south to St Flour – taking the road to Albi

By train: not on the main TGV routes, but you can travel direct from Paris Austerlitz and book your tickets from the UK at RailEurope

Getting around: A car is essential – drive down or hire from the airport or railway station.

Some of these recommendations kindly supplied by Colin & Stephanie Evans who offer B&B (Chambres d’Hote) at le Clot

Saumur  (49 Maine et Loire, Pays de Loire)

Where to stay

English/French family-owned Gite and B&B (Chambres d’Hote) on a vineyard run by Sarah-Jane Beaumont and her husband Gérald – about 30 minutes south of Saumur at Pouançay.

Where to eat (recommended):

The Domaine (above) also offers Tables d’Hote (”host’s table, fixed price menu – booked in advance) – their “Découverte du Terroir’ is something you won’t find in a restaurant.  Carefully selected by Gérald the large plateau of local delicacies and handed down recipes from Grandma ensure a true French supper.  Accompanied by a complimentary bottle of AOC Saumur wine, dine leisurely in the peaceful grounds of ‘the Domaine.

Where to eat (gourmet):

l’Hélianthe (The Helianthos) – for good food and a fabulous setting,  a  “restaurant troglodytique” (set in troglodyte caves).  Highly recommended.

Place Antoine Cristal, Turquant - about 10km south-east of Saumur along the river valley.
T: 02.41.51.22.28

La Licorne – a Michelin starred restaurant serving modern French cuisine  in the historical town of Fontrevraud l’Abbaye (abput 15km southeast of Saumur)

Restaurant la Licorne, Allée Sainet Catherine, Fontrevaud l’Abbaye
T:02.41.51.72.49

Where to eat (value for money):

For a picnic or snack between sight-seeing visits step into any boulangerie for a sandwich, quiche or slice of pizza followed by a mouth watering pastry.

Local food:

The specialty of the Saumur region are les Fouées, hollow unleavened breads filled with rillettes and confit de canard, served hot and accompanied by another specialty, large grilled mushrooms dripping with garlic & parsley butter – yummy !!

Local wine:

Saumur has its own appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC Saumur) and produces a wide variety of wines including sparkling, white, rosé and red.  For those interested in learning more about wine the Beaumonts (above)  offer private wine tours & wine tastings and vineyard visits.

Market:

Saumur hosts a fabulous Saturday morning market full of fresh produce, livestock! and stalls with plenty of goodies you’ll want to take home with you.

Must See:

Château de Saumur – dominates the town of Saumur at the edge of the Loire river
Cadre Noir at the National Equestrian School of the elite French Cavalry
Visit a Loire Valley vineyard
A Loire Valley wine tour & wine tasting

When to come :

Saumur’s Wine Festival “La Marché des Vins de Saumur” which takes place the first weekend in September (4-6 September 2009)

Getting around:

Why not try cycling – the well-established Loire à Velo scheme  which offers cycling along the gentle banks of the Loire  with well-signposted cycle paths and itineraries.

There are also plenty of well-marked footpaths in the area – along the river and away from it – see www.saumur-rando.com (in French)

Local Tourist Office -

and remember this section of the Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site – The Loire Valley is noteworthy for the quality of its architectural heritage, in its historic towns such as Blois, Chinon, Orléans, Saumur, and Tours, but in particular in its world-famous castles, such as the Château de Chambord.

Thanks to Sarah-Jane Beaumont at Domaine de Bellevue for some of these recommendations

The rally (about 9 kilometres) in and around the village encompasses 8 wineries with opportunities to taste and enjoy local foods- olives, olive oil and herbes de provence, cheeses etc – before the evening (6pm) “Ban des Vendanges” – the ceremonial declaration of the start of the 2009 wine harvest. The day concludes with a village feast with music!

Vinsobres is an appellation in its own right (i.e. classified above Côtes du Rhône AC and Côtes du Rhône Villages AC) and produces only red wines from Grenache *at least 50% ), Syrah and/or Mourvedre and is one of the most northerly of the southern Rhône vineyards.

More info on Vinsobres

“L’Oignon Rose de Roscoff” is now protected as an Appellation Controllée (AOC from 2009) due to its specific character (delicate skin, long life, intense flavour and good size – and only grown in and around Roscoff). If you are deeply interested in the history of this vegetable and its connection to the UK , visit the La maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff – the Onions Johnnies museum in Roscoff.  Festivities include an onion market, music , torchlit parade  and a  bicycle race!  Food based on the oignon feature of course – onion tarts, onion bread and onion soup – together with a dispay of impressive onion strings!!

Beyond Onions and Johnnies, I still consider Roscoff one of the pleasantest ports of arrival/departure in France – close to the town and retaining most of its medieval and maritime character it is a delightful place to spend an hour or so (or longer).

For more info on Roscoff and its Onion Festival see www.roscoff-tourisme.com

Brittany Ferries run services from Plymouth and Cork.
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Rather idiosyncatically as well as producing French wines (often for sale to Brits) they also decided to try to prioduce beer for the French! Clearly the British taste in beers is quite different to that of the French. Personally I love French beer. but it tends to be best in hot summer weather and the traditional “pression” tends to somewhat gassy and light in taste. It is a long way from a pint of English bitter.

Hence, although the Meakins were a bit of a mission to bring the French around to our point of view of beer, they have instead focussed on developing a style of beer which might also appeal to the French. So  what is it that the French like and dislike?

We took nearly 100 x 500cl bottles and sold out and probably could of sold half as much again!  This was the Bronze mainly with a few of the Dorée, it isn’t over hoppy and although you wouldn’t call it sweet it definitely lacks any bitter end/after taste and has a fair bit of gas for a real ale.  I would say its the bitterness that our French customers don’t like , hence we have tried to calm it down and it seems to have worked.

In addition to beer, the Domaine de Merchien produces a range of wines, including a VDQS Coteaux du Quercy – a red made from Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cot(Malbec) and Tannat.

For more info see www.merchien.com

The three days includes processions, floats, music, dancing and a Miss Fleurs competition!!

Best known as a winter ski resort with its easy access from Toulouse, it remains nevertheless an attractive area to visit in Summer.

Located in the heart of the Pyrenees, at the foot of the highest summits of this spectacular range, LUCHON (630m) and SUPERBAGNERES (1860m) both benefit from a remarkable geographic location and an exceptional concentration of summits higher than 3000 metres.

Ever since the conquest of the Monts Maudits, all the great Pyrenean climbers have left their mark in the granite of the Luchon Mountains.

High altitude enthusiasts will find the quality of rock they’re looking for, from the endless treks on the ridges above 3000 metres, to the excitement of mountain climbs on the majestic rock faces of Pic Quaïrat or Les Spijeoles.

Numerous high altitude lakes invite you to stroll or fish, unless you’d prefer a botanical walk!

For more info see www.luchon.com

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This comes at the same time as Ryanair has also announced the cancelling of many flights from Stansted over this winter.

So, much will depend on when you want to fly and how much you are willing to pay – and as always with Ryanair make sure that you take into account the additional costs that will be added to the headline price – i.e for online booking, baggage, priority boarding etc. However, the new Ryanair destination airports are local to the named city – but some airports can be some distance from the named city- e.g. Paris Beauvais is 50 miles (80km) north of Paris and takes about an hour and 15 minutes by bus.

For more info on Ryanair flights and destinations see www.ryanair.com
Air routes to France

Eymet's Wine and Oysters!

The small bastide village of Eymet (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine)about 20km south west of Bergerac  is the place to be on Saturday 15 August 2009 for its White Wine and Oyster Festival ! (Fête de l’huître et du vin blanc) which takes place all day in the Place de la Bastide. You can taste and buy Oysters and the local Bergerac wines to take away or to eat on site – stay until evening and there’s dancing to add to the atmosphere.

Throughout the summer months there is also a night market (marché nocturne) every Tuesday evening

Nearby there are numerous vineyards to visit such as our favourite Chateau Grinou at Monestier - or there is Chateau Haut Garrigue in Saussignac aka Wild Earth Vineyards, where you can learn about, taste and buy organic wines and stay in a gite with one of the best views in the region.

Eymet's night market

Eymet local tourist office website

A great way to try (and to buy) wines in the Loire Valley is offered on Saturday 15 August 2009 with a wine festival being held in the streets of Bourgueil (37 Indre et Loire, Centre) – Fete des Vins du Val de Loire hopefully the weather will be fine as it is in the open air! Wines from other parts of the Loire Valley aill be on offer, including those from one of our favourites – Domaine Octavie at Oisly, whose Touraine AC wines are always a delight.

Bourgeuil AC is a small Loire appellation between Tours and Saumur, a few kilmetres north of Chinon. Production is primarily for red wines (plus a very small production of rosé) made from the Cabernet Franc grape (although up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon can be added). There is also the smaller appellation of St Nicolas-de-Bourgueil which has the same grape varietals, and which I challenge most imbibers to distinguish from Bourgueil AC (or Chinon AC for that matter).I used to think of Cabernet Franc reds as a little dry and dusty, but in good years they can develop a wonderfully fruity style (raspberries?) whilst still full-bodied and with noticeable tannins – and recent good summers have helped to produce more attractive wines.Bourgueil (37 Indre et Loire, Centre) is a small Loire appellation between Tours and Saumur, a few kilmetres north of Chinon. Production is primarily for red wines (plus a very small production of rosé) made from the Cabernet Franc grape (although up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon can be added). There is also the smaller appellation of St Nicolas-de-Bourgueil which has the same grape varietals, and which I challenge most imbibers to distinguish from Bourgueil AC (or Chinon AC for that matter).I used to think of Cabernet Franc reds as a little dry and dusty, but in good years they can develop a wonderfully fruity style (raspberries?) whilst still full-bodied and with noticeable tannins – and recent good summers have helped to produce more attractive wines.

Bourgueil Tourist Office

However, there are other reasons to stop in the local areanewly-opened Calais Lace Museum (Cité Internationale de la dentelle et de la mode de Calais) which is a must see. Located in an original lace factory building, visitors can see original working Victorian lace machines and a stunning array of exhibits including a display of original lace clothes and fashion through the centuries. At the final gallery, visitors can use a special camera, which shows themselves dressed in any of the museum’s lace clothes – in 3D.

Just a 10 minute drive from Calais, the quaint, reconstructed Saint-Joseph Village offers a glimpse of what life was like in rural France between 1900 and 1950. Complete with a garage, school, blacksmith’s forge, sawmill and restaurant offering local recipes, this village is a unique learning experience for any child.

Seafrance Ferries are offering a 50% reduction for family entry to both attractions until 20 September 2009:-

Nine tourist attractions in the Calais area are giving SeaFrance customers 50% off family entry (two adults and up to three kids). Alternatively, SeaFrance customers can take advantage of a 20% discount on individual tickets. All customers need to do is show their SeaFrance car lane hangers when they turn up at an attraction- see www.seafrance.com

Other local attractions in or near Calais include:-
# Calais Lighthouse – 19th Century Lighthouse with great views over Calais and the English Channel
# Guines Clock Tower
# Eurolac & Naviboat – a leisure park with lake and self-drive boats around the local canal network
# Musée 39-45 - museum of the 1939-1945 War
# The Blockhaus at Eperlecques – part of the WWII preparations for invading England.
# Calais War Museum (WWII)
# Musée du Mur de l’Atlantique – a museum in a WWII bunker focussing on the contruction of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall

One of my personal favourites is the City Hall with its imposing belfry and Rodin’s sculpture of the “Burghers of Calais”
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The authorities in France have a colour-coded system to signify traffic density, and for traffic heading away from the Paris region and towards the coast and mountains

ORANGE = dense traffic with local jams

RED = very dense traffic with many traffic jams (bouchons)

BLACK = the worst – extremely heavy traffic with many traffic jams on all routes.

FRIDAY 31 July 2009 is RED

SATURDAY 1 August 2009 is BLACK

SUNDAY 2 August is ORANGE, except for the South East (Rhone-Alpes region around Lyon) which is RED

Returning traffic is RED most Saturdays in August.

However, helpfully most roadworks are suspended over the weekends between mid-July and the end of August – so the problems will be due to sheer volume of traffic.

A good map is always useful, but also consider using France’s network of Alternative Routes (itineraire bis) which cover large areas of France and will take you on decent N roads and avoid the worst bottlenecks.

And also beware that some autoroute toll charges (péage) are higher in peak periods than at other times – e.g. on August Sunday afternoons heading towards Paris!

For more info on traffic conditions in France see www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr

New Speed Limits for Caravans and trailers in France:-
The new speed limits for a car and caravan or trailer with combined gross weight over 3.5 tonnes and are 90kph on motorways and dual carriageways, 80kph on ordinary roads and the standard 50kph in towns.

Trogneux Chocolate

However a recent visit (in summer) there were 2 other discoveries – firstly a superb Chocolatier at Jean Trogneux where delicious chocolate and biscuit creations are made, including the famous Macaroons of Amiens and wafer-thin biscuits called “Tuiles”.
Trogneux, 1 rue Delambre – Zone piétonne – BP 20823 – 80008 AMIENS

Amiens Tourist Office Website

The Somme is of course closely associated with the First World War and is littered with many war cemeteries and memorials. On this ocassion we headed for the Australianand New Zealand War Memorial at Villers-Brettoneux a few kilometres due east of Amiens. Visiting war cemeteries is inevitably a little sombre, but this one was striking. Although the memorial looked a but stumpy and monolithic from a distance, closer to, and within the context of the rest of the cemetery it was much more graceful. The place had a sense of peace and tranquility about it – and as an added bonus a climb to the top of the tower offers some stunning views over the landscape – and that too looks beautiful.

Strangely enough, more Australians and New Zealanders (ANZACs) were killed in France in WWI, but Gallipolli is more keenly remembered and commemorated with Anzac Day.

11,000 Australians and New Zealanders with no known grave are commemorated at Villers-Bretonneux – and the village is proud of its connection with Australia.

There is another memorial to British and Australian victims of WWI at Fromelles (59 Nord, Nord-Pas de Calais) just west of Lille.

See more on Villers-Bretonneux
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Although it is a coastal port, the city is protected from the sea with by the Golfe de Morbihan which provides many opportunities for water sports and sailing.

But for this one week there are some great Jazz perforances from the likes of the Buena Vista Social Club and the Carla Bley Big Band.

The festival is also an opportunity to discover emerging young talents and for amateur and professional musicians to express themselves through the springboard and jam sessions. The entire town lives in step with jazz during the daytime entertainment, the concerts in the Auditorium des Carmes and the “jazz off” event, with evenings of improvisation and concerts organised throughout the city.
The 30th Festival will begin with the traditional free evening event in the Place de Hôtel de Ville and at the new esplanade on the right bank of the harbour.

More info on the Jazz à Vannes Festival
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Lavender is celebrated in Valréas during the first weekend in the month of August. Saturday evening and Monday evening, there is a parade of richly decorated floats, on different themes each year. A lively parade full of fun for the crowds who come to take part in the celebration. Folk dance and music groups, marching bands majorettes lead the way. This year’s theme: countries and their traditions.

This part of Provence sums up the essence of southern France with its wealth of luscious produce – fruits, wine, lavender, truffles – as part of an area known as l’Enclave des Papes (The Popes Enclave)

The Enclave des Papes is happy to offer to its inhabitants and visitors some delicious flavours and pleasant aromas :the Côtes du Rhône wine, the Black Diamond “the truffle”, and the bluish fields of lavender in June…
So many products stemming from our soil gathered on our weekly Provençal markets!

For more info on Vareas and Provence Lavender

Of course Lavender is also grown in the UK as far north as Yorkshire – for example at Wolds Way Lavender near Malton, North Yorkshire – and there have been days this year when NorthYorkshire has been warmer than Provence.