]]>ColorworkKnitting tipsLisa ChemeryMon, 08 Mar 2021 08:36:00 +0000https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJCYhngkUKA567fe335a12f44019ca26335:56819a7039561406fb96c313:6045e060f9390c75ff247b9fDon’t be scared of colorwork! Here are 7 tips that will instantly make your colorwork projects look their best.

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]]>Finished Knitting ProjectsFrom Japan with loveDressesInspirationknittingLifeMy DesignsnatureLisa ChemeryTue, 29 May 2018 07:48:23 +0000http://frogginette.com/blog/2018/5/29/from-japan-with-love-hanami567fe335a12f44019ca26335:56819a7039561406fb96c313:5b0cfb920e2e723b749511eaHanami is the second pattern in the “From Japan With Love” pattern bundle. Additional patterns in this bundle will be released throughout the year.

The design:

I've you've been following me for a while, you probably know that I have a special fondness for swingy garments for little girls. While the yoke and sleeves are designed to be relatively fitted, the skirt portion of Hanami flares out rather dramatically for a good dose of whimsy. Let's just say that this particular dress is sure to be a hit with twirly dress enthusiasts ;) As always, it's also a practical, comfortable garment that looks really special with its neat finishing touches.

The stitch pattern featured in the front yoke produces a rich and visually striking texture that is reminiscent of blossoms or snowflakes (I actually think Hanami would make a fantastic winter dress! It would be stunning in white, red or speckled yarn). The wide skirt is intended to have a gauzy feel and float about in the breeze.

The inspiration:

As I explained in the blog post I wrote about Sagano, another Japan-inspired design, my recent trip to Japan brought back so many memories and emotions.

One of the most special experiences that I had there as a teenager was to take part in Hanami, a traditional Japanese custom that involves sitting under cherry-blossom-covered trees in the Spring, and watching the exquisite, fragile blossoms fluttering away. There's something bittersweet, almost poignant about it, and it's in my view very reminiscent of those beautiful, fleeting moments of childhood. I tried to capture this mixture of excitement and nostalgia with this design, imagining little girls twirling about in the sun, in an exuberant explosion of joy and life.

About the yarn:

I used Leizu fingering by Julie Asselin for the sample, which is a merino blend containing a small amount of silk, creating a lovely stitch definition and subtle sheen. The soft pink colorway is called Romance and I find it perfectly evocative of delicate cherry blossoms. 

While this design calls for a fingering weight yarn (by the way, a "sock yarn" should work great and be durable, too!), I would steer clear of "light fingerings," which might produce a fabric that is a bit too loose. Actually, the gauge would allow you to get away with using a slightly thicker yarn, such as a sport, but in that case, the garment wouldn't be as breezy/floaty, it would end up being a bit "denser", so, warmer and more structured. Just a matter of personal preference ;)

The design:

The fit is comfy, slightly roomy, which is also a bit of a departure from the close-fitting silhouettes I usually favor. The pattern is worked top-down, seamlessly, and some short rows can be worked after the yoke increased are done, to raise the back neck and ensure a nicer fit. In the pattern, I suggest using German short rows with a variation on how to work the last double stitch when resuming work in the round. The unique textured bands that run down the shoulders and sleeves are very intuitive to work, although a chart and written instructions are provided.

My inspiration:

A so-called "third-culture kid," I lived in several different countries as a child, and Japan was one of them. I lived in Tokyo for a couple of years as a teenager and hadn't been back since I was 16 years old, so it was quite emotional to be back when my husband and I took a trip there last Fall. It was a great opportunity for me to rediscover not only my favorite hang outs (well, the ones that still exist... The house we lived in and my old school have both long been torn down) but also to explore places that I had always dreamed of seeing.

One of these was the Sagano bamboo forest:

I had not expected my trip to Japan to yield so much design inspiration but it was truly magical. I had to quickly start sketching as every thing I saw evoked a texture, a silhouette, an emotion.

The Sagano sweater was the first design that I sketched in my notebook. My husband and I had just visited the beautiful Sagano Bamboo Forest near Kyoto. We were walking through a quiet residential area, with the feeling of awe still lingering after exiting the forest, when my eye was caught by this humble but beautiful woven fence:

I loved how the strong horizontal lines of the large bamboo stalks helped bring out the woven texture, so I decided to translate that idea and came up with this variation on an existing stitch pattern that I had seen floating around on Pinterest, which I bordered with twisted stitch columns. I had to experiment quite a bit with it until it was just so, but I am SO happy with the result. It turned out exactly the way I wanted:

I used Leizu DK by Julie Asselin for the sample, which is a merino blend containing a small amount of silk, and the stitch definition really brings out the texture, and this gorgeous nuanced grey captured the moody vibe of the forest.

I hope you love this design as much as I do! You can purchase it here.

Me too! I got so annoyed that EVERY technique I tried seemed to leave a stretched out stitch, a gap, or both. I tried varying tension, and redistributing any slack to neighboring stitches from the WS, and to be fair, sometimes that helped a lot. But the result I was able to get was still not invisible enough for me. After many online searches, and fiddling around with lots of other people's tricks, I was still not quite satisfied. 

Finally, when using German Short rows (the easiest, most foolproof method I think) i tried modifying the pick up method of that last double double stitch. And lo and behold, I liked the result. It's not completely perfect but I think it's quite close:

Important caveat: I think that getting a good result when it comes to the look of short rows has a lot to do with individual tension, which explains why some people will rave about a technique, and others can't seem to replicate the results. So I encourage you to use a swatch (in the round!) and try a few different methods and see what works best for you.

Here's a few more tutorials I found and tried that I think were good, if you want to give them a try. Please feel free to suggest anything else you think is great, and I'll add it to the list:

Japanese short rows tutorial by Ysolda Teague (Please note: her explanations for modifying the technique for knitting in the round is in the Notes section under the video)

This technique, which I randomly stumbled upon.

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]]>Lisa ChemeryTue, 30 Jan 2018 08:18:21 +0000http://frogginette.com/blog/2018/1/28/my-goals-for-2018567fe335a12f44019ca26335:56819a7039561406fb96c313:5a6e005d24a694fb936b81ceAfter reviewing what last year brought, I've listed some things I'd like to accomplish, or direct my attention to in 2018, and I've noticed that they all revolve around the theme of "exploration":

1. Explore my craft: I want to explore more things related to knitting and expand the breadth of my knowledge, as well as challenge myself to not always rely on old recipes. That means: 

- Working with yarn dyers that I admire, learning more about what they do and how they do it.

- Trying out techniques and trying to compile a definitive list of the ones I like the best, instead of wasting time trying out a million cast ons, decreases etc. every time I design something. This might be a good opportunity to come up with some tutorials of my own, instead of linking to other designers' videos!

- Allowing myself to be creative and not censoring myself. This is not to say I want to do crazy out-there origami garments, just that I want to give myself permission to choose what seems right for the garment (if this means foregoing top-down, seamless raglans in favor of less popular techniques and constructions, so be it!). But at the same time, rest assured that I will always strive to find the simplest, most elegant solution to a particular design problem. Fussy is not me.

- Spending time reading other designers' patterns and studying them. I'm still in the mindset of buying only patterns I might one day knit, and at this point I should view patterns more as study materials.

- Learning more about knitting traditions around the world and keeping an eye on what's happening on the runways knitting-wise.

2. Explore a particular inspiration more fully:

- Instead of doing mini collections with motifs or stitch patterns carried over different garments , which I've done a couple of times, I want to spend some time diving into a particular inspiration or a particular aesthetic and let that be my guide for a while.

- Try to dissect the emotion or the mood that I'm trying to convey, be more intentional about color and texture.

- Keep prioritizing function and comfort. Never forget that these garments should be loved by the little humans they belong to, and worn out in the world.

3. Get to know my community better:

- Listen to more knitting podcasts (any suggestions?? I had compiled a list a while back but I need more ideas!) That might means laying off true crime podcasts for a while... Oh no!... ;) 

- Attend at least one fiber festival this year. Perhaps reach out to local-ish yarn stores.

- Start a Facebook group where people who love my patterns can meet, chat and get inspired (Done!) 

[When I started my Facebook page a couple of years back I didn't realize that only a small fraction of the people who like the page would be able to see what I post unless I paid Facebook money. Unlike a page, a Facebook group seem to be pretty straightforward algorithm-wise: if I post something there's a good chance the group members will see it.]

- By the same token, share more of myself: Truth be told, I am getting increasingly bored with the Instagramming of life; all the "inspiring," carefully curated and interchangeable flat lays, blooms and cups of coffee. It's all fine and good for a quick scroll, but there's something to be said for more in-depth and reflected-upon content. And on a more personal level, writing more regularly can only be good for my poor scattered brain!

4. Explore another craft as a hobby:

Because it's important to take a break from knitting! I want to do more sewing for the kids this year. The only sewing patterns for kids that I'm familiar with (and that are suitable for my skill level) are Made By Rae's. Any other recommendations? I also would like to get better at embroidery. I've rediscovered it recently and I would love any suggestions you might have of books, online resources etc...

5. Redo my studio!

I've already started a Pinterest inspiration board (click on the image below to check it out)! Baby steps ;)

What about you? Do you have any knitting goals for 2018?

Coming from the US with a 6 month-old in tow, we were a bit bewildered at first to find ourselves in such a seemingly remote and... dark part of the country. We live in the North-Eastern part of Germany, in the former DDR, on the Baltic Sea (just across Denmark). So the dead of winter took a bit of getting used to. But even in the winter, there are still good times and incredible surprises to be had, like that one time the ocean had frozen over:

Then, a few months later, we discovered the joy of Scandinavian summertime near the sea. A 20-minute bike ride along a wonderfully pretty canal takes you to the beach, where the still and shallow waters mean that you can (almost) leave the kids splashing around unattended. We've had so many beach picnics followed by lazy, slow afternoons.

And this small town just happens to have kid-friendly everything: great playgrounds, ice cream at every corner, playing area in many restaurants and coffee shops, lots of daycares (relatively speaking, compared to many places in Germany where they are scarce), the most wonderful little zoo, old sailboats along the canal...

So we've settled into a very wholesome, family-centric, relaxed way of life. Pool or bikes rides to the forest on Sunday mornings, or walking to the coffee shop for some fresh pretzels and cappuccinos. Racing bikes down slopes, scaring many a duck and passerby... In the summer, barbecuing or gardening on our deck, perfecting cookie and key lime pie recipes... Ingesting a good amount of Sekt and pistachios. Finding bugs and snails, collecting dead leaves. Dreaming of unearthing dinosaur bones.

Of course it hasn't been all puppies and rainbows. Learning to navigate things when there were (at the time) so few expats around to guide us (thank you to the few who did!!) and without the benefit of a proficient German speaker in the family (oh, how my high school German felt inadequate!) has at times been painful and peinlich... Building a successful business with such a language barrier for all things administrative wasn't easy. Figuring out what's done and not done, said and not said was an everyday learning experience -- but that's what all expats and immigrants (should) do.

Another hard thing: juggling three languages every day. And the myth of the multilingual kids who absorbs all languages equally, rapidly and with sponge-like passivity (propagated mostly by non-trilingual-kid-having people)... This myth led to much anxiety during the first few years of language struggles for our eldest, which came with a side of behavioral issues, due to language-related frustration and insecurity. We were almost going to throw the towel in and leave, feeling that we had failed him by hampering his communication and learning skills with all these difficult languages to be learned AT THE SAME TIME.

But then... things sort of clicked (with a LOT of effort and family involvement). The trilingual thing is no longer a source of worry. We had a second child here (who had none of her brother's language difficulties), bought a place, got a car (after years of riding bikes everywhere!). And just like that, we're home. For now ;) 

Not necessarily. 

I think it can be useful to channel that surge of hope and energy we get as a new year begins into creating positive and sustainable changes in our lives (if we want those changes of course!) 

But don't get me wrong. I am not going to be resolving to "lose weight" or "support cause A" or "run more" in 2018. As written, these goals are either too vague, too generic for me (do I really want to do X? Why? Are things around me convincing me that I * should * want X?) or too removed from my actual life and natural tendencies. Also, a year is a long time, and for me, a bit more planning and breaking down into tasks is necessary in order to accomplish any substantial goal.

So what I will do is set a handful of specific to-dos that I know I can complete in the next few weeks. These will be attainable and very precise, for exampl:e "Schedule physical with doctor XYZ", "Download Couch to 5K app" or "take the stairs instead of the elevator."

As these are being completed, I'll pat myself on the back and write new, simple tasks, perhaps a tad more challenging this time (depending on my level of motivation) for the following few weeks. These tasks will be the incremental steps that will take me closer towards my goal(s). 

So, while the goal is still on the horizon, what I focus on daily is only the (manageable) task at hand, making progress tangible and measurable. Each time I reach a milestone on the way to reaching my bigger goal(s), I try to:

1) recognize that I've passed that milestone

2) mentally give myself a high five for having gone this far.

What do you think? Do you do dislike new year resolutions? Or do you think they are useful? If so, what are your tips to make them stick? 

-PATTERN RELEASES: I've released 10 patterns in 2017, still going slow and steady and trying to be very intentional about each design that I release. Half of the patterns I published in 2017 were based on my best-selling pattern Entrechat: two extra versions of the designs, written for DK and for fingering weights, and three matching accessories: the Entrechat bonnet, available for three different yarn weights: worsted, dk and fingering. The rest of the releases were: Em Dash (the grown-up version of my Hyphen cardigan), two gender-neutral cardigans (Merci and Miel) and two dresses (Honey Pie and Aubade).

While I felt a bit frustrated that consolidating my porfolio (the different weight versions for Entrechat and the matching bonnets) meant less time spent exploring new designs, I think spending time giving my customers what they asked for was the right thing to do :)

-STYLE: 2017 is the year that I have consciously looked within to find and express into words the source of my inspiration. I feel that I have solidified my own style and my designs reflect the sweet spot where my creativity and my customers' expectations intersect.  

-SOCIAL: in 2017 I ran the first-ever Entrechat Knitalong and while I spent a lot of time planning it and gathering sponsors and prizes, it was a real thrill to see so many people participate and have fun with the design. Earlier in the year I also ran an Easter/Spring dress KAL, which was also great. I think I still have to do better and fight my introvert tendencies in order to connect with my lovely community even more. Overall, though, I feel like I'm on the right path in consolidating these ties. I've been posting regularly on Instagram and although my Newsletter is currently mostly about pattern releases and discounts, the number of subscribers is growing rapidly and I am planning on sprucing up the content this year.

-IN-PERSON EVENTS: This is an area that definitely could use some improvements: I had intended to attend both Berlin Knits and Rhinebeck in 2017, but a trip to Japan (which was so much fun and so inspiring! I'll post about it soon) conflicted with those dates, so I ended up missing out on both events. I really want to meet more knitters in person, and it's a bit frustrating to live far away from big cities and always feel like I'm in a bubble. 

-WORK/LIFE BALANCE: This year was one of steady business growth. My revenue grew 25% in 2017, which I'm very happy with. I've spent more effort where it matters and hired help here and there so I wouldn't get bogged down by easily-outsourced tasks.  I also tried to aim for a good work/life balance: I tried to be focused and disciplined during work hours and avoided working when my family was home and on weekends. I also prioritized sleep -- the kids now sleep beautifully and so do I! I also took advantage of our kids growing more independent to take longer trips with my husband (thanks to the help of dedicated grandparents!). I even basically took December off, knitting other designers' patterns, which was so enjoyable:

-PERSONAL: A big chunk of my year was taken up by the need to pass my driver's license again. I live in Germany, and my New Jersey (expired!) license isn't valid here. So I had to go through the very lengthy and expensive process of taking hours and hours or theory and driving lessons -- all in German! (Not to mention a first-aid certification, eye test etc... prior to even getting started.) Long story short, I passed the test in September and can now finally USE OUR CAR!! That's been a relief because as much as I enjoy riding my bike, the kids are starting to be in that tricky phase where they're too young to ride their own bikes to school and almost too old to be in the bike seat and trailer. Plus when it rains or snows it's nice to have a more comfortable option ;)

The focus on this has taken away from spending time trying to improve my German and I fear that my skills have taken a nose-dive. Same with running/exercising. I did ok early in the year but then the driving lessons in the early morning interfered with my efforts. One good thing I did thanks to the break I took in December was to finally set up my sewing machine and start sewing again as a hobby! For now it's baby steps, just sewing some dolly clothes, but it's a good start to getting my sewing skills to an acceptable level ;)

-FAMILY: The kids made tremendous strides in 2017: I now consider them fully trilingual: their French skills have really blossomed because of time spent with my side of the family and they are now starting to express themselves relatively well. It's great to finally be able to have conversations with them in French.

They have become very chatty and social and say the funniest thing. They are joined at the hip, love being read to and they draw a lot. A. also learned to swim this year! When I think about how nervous he used to be in the pool, it's a real wonder. They also both have started attending a music class and they love it. Finally, A. has just recently passed the German Schuluntersuchung, the test all school-aged kids have to take before they can start school. I have to say, this was a lot more involved than what I was expecting: one hour of medical and cognitive testing... So that means he'll start "real school" this summer! Hard to believe...

We also added two member to our family in 2017: two kitties, Jacko and Stella! They are a bit naughty, making messes wherever they go, but they are incredibly snuggly. Sharing our flat with them is still an adjustment sometimes, but the kids are so happy about these two furry friends!

What about you? How did 2017 treat you? I wish all of you a fantastic 2018!

Stunning isn't it? I had never really thought of using knitting as a canvas for embroidery before! I had to find out more about her (she lives in Hamburg, not too far from me!) and I started following her on  social media.

Her creativity and eye for colors are just brilliant. She has a particular love for colorwork and I love just about everything she comes up with. Her Instagram feed is so inspiring, full of the most enticing photographs of wooly goodness. AND she doesn't just knit, she also spins and sews beautifully, and even sells THE coolest project bags  (she calls them Kunibags) online, in shops around Hamburg and at yarn festivals.

I am so delighted that she agreed to donate one Kunibag as a prize for our Entrechat KAL. 

One lucky winner will soon receive this beauty! I have to admit I'm a bit jealous ;)

I love the combination of fabrics she picked out, it's super elegant and modern, with a retro twist, don't you think?

Judit has been super busy lately in her studio and will soon open an Etsy shop. In the meantime, make sure you follow her on Instagram and Ravelry so you don't miss any of her beautiful creations. Thanks again Judit!

I've been following Dana on Instagram for a while now, and I love having that window into her day-to-day as an indie dyer and business owner, and seeing her adorable little girl grow. 

As an indie dyer, she comes up with absolutely wonderful colorways full of happy bright colors, which come in a wide variety of bases, from fingering to worsted weight. Each one of her colorways is inspired by something very personal, either a meaningful song, a memory, a photo... Dana also makes the cutest notion pouches and project bags in covetable fabrics. Be sure to check out her store! She really pours her heart and soul into her work, and with each new product she shares a bit of herself with the world.

Dana is also one of the organizer behind the Into The Wool Fiber Retreat, which has been taking place for the past four years and looks oh-so-heavenly. 

Are you curious to see the prize that Dana has prepared for our Entrechat KAL? It's the loveliest yarn and bag kit!

This fabric is just perfect, no? And how wonderful is this yarn!

Here are some more details:

The project bag is made from organic cotton print fabric with a white organic cotton lining. It measures approximately 11" wide x 7" tall with a 4" gusset.  It is interfaced with batting and is soft but will stand up on its own. It has a zipper top and coordinating colored stitching.

The yarn is Unwind Yarn Company's Round Trip Sock, a lovely high-twist super wash 100% merino single that blocks beautifully and shows stitch definition extremely well. It was dyed in Dana's repeatable colorway Black Magic Woman, a tonal pink with splashes of navy. The skein is 400yds/100g. Gauge: 7-8 sts = 1” on #1-3 needles. Hand or machine wash cool, lay flat to dry.

I am so excited on behalf of the lucky winner who will receive this wonderful kit! Want your own? You can find the Unwind Yarn Company here:

Shop: Unwind Yarn Company

Instagram: Unwindyarncompany

Facebook: Unwind Yarn Company

The KAL is still going strong, with new participants still joining us every day, so don't be shy and join us! There's still plenty of time to make one Entrechat... or five! I'll announce the winners on July 1.

How pretty is this?? It's called Lavish and you can find it it, along with all of Heather's offerings here. 

Here's a close up of the donated skein, Lavish in DK weight, for your viewing pleasure. You are welcome :)

Heather's hand-dyed yarns are inspired by the world around her; tiny songbirds, majestic skies, sand and stone, and all things bright and beautiful. Heather creates sewhappyJane yarn in the kitchen of her century old music teaching studio. She uses only the finest, professional grade materials and dye in small batches of 2-4 skeins at a time. Each skein of yarn is unique and made to infuse your projects with life. 

Thank you so much, Heather, for being a sponsor! And for taking part in the KAL of course!

Heather can be found the following places:

Shop: sewhappyjane.bigcartel.com

Instagram: sewhappyjane

facebook: sewhappyjane

Ravelry: sewhappyjane

www.sustainmusicstudio.com

I can hear the groans already... Ugh, swatching is so boring! I want to start knitting this exciting new project right now! Yes, I know you do :) But, trust me, spending an hour swatching will save you from heartache down the road. 

Some of us don't mind the knitting part of swatching, but don't really want to "waste yarn" to make that swatch, especially when it's not clear whether you will end up winning at yarn chicken or not! So either we don't swatch at all, or we knit itty-bitty swatches that really don't allow for an accurate result. Ideally, you should knit swatches that are around 6 inches or 15cm in width and at least 4 inches or 10cm in length (more if your row gauge is important). "But, but, all that beautiful yarn will be wasted!!"

As it turns out, there's an easy solution for that excuse: just don't cut the yarn when you're done swatching! Make a slip knot with the yarn still attached to the ball as shown below, and then plop the yarn ball in a bowl and dunk that swatch in the sink! (yes!! swatches need to be blocked otherwise you might have bad surprises if the yarn tends to grow during blocking!)

Ta-da! The umbilical cord hasn't been cut, you see? Once your swatch has soaked for about 20-30 minutes, gently squeeze the water out of it by rolling it in a towel (being careful not to undo the slipknot), then let the swatch dry flat.

You can now take your measurements and compare your gauge to the gauge that is recommended in the pattern, which will tell you whether or not you need to adjust your needle size (the needle size in a pattern is merely given as a guideline, but each knitter knits more or less tightly and it could be that two knitters will need two different needle size to achieve the same tension.) 

Once you have determined your stitch and row gauges and written it down somewhere (don't forget to also write down the needle size you used!) you can simply undo the slip knot and frog the swatch! Voila! No yarn "wasted" swatching!

Here are my notes about how I made this variation based on the main Entrechat knitting pattern, which is available here.

First a note about extra supplies: You will need a set of dpns of the same diameter as your main (circular) needle to work the sleeves in the round (unless you prefer to use the magic loop technique). You will also need a bit more yarn than indicated in the pattern since you are adding sleeve length. I would guesstimate that you will need anywhere from 50 to 150 yards extra depending on the size you are working and sleeve length you want to knit. 

The beginning of the pattern can be followed as written until Page 3 of the pattern, where it says "Repeat Rows 3 and 4 for the raglan increases until you have the following stitch count."

You simply ignore the stitch counts that are immediately following this statement, as well as the next two sentences, instead working rows 3 and 4 until you get the stitch counts given at the bottom of page 3 (they are bolded).

Then, on the next WS, instead of binding off the sleeve stitches as indicated, you place them on hold using two pieces of scrap yarn (so, purl to the end of that WS, then slip both sets of sleeve sts onto holders, removing markers).

Then, you can follow the pattern as written to finish the body of the shrug.

Once you are done with the body, it's time to work the sleeves. Place the held sleeve stitches onto your dpns, making sure they are evenly distributed.

Then, joining new yarn at the underarm (leave a yarn tail about 8" or 20cm, which you will later use to thread a needle to close up any holes/gaps), you pick up and knit two stitches from the edge of the underarm area. Place a marker between those two stitches and then knit all the sleeve stitches. Then, joining in the round, knit your sleeve stitches in the round for approximately 1" or 2.5cm. 

At that point, work a decrease round: Slm, k1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.

Continue working in the round in stockinette, working a decrease round every 2 inches or 5cm. When you are 1" shy of your desired sleeve length, alternate working a purled round and a knitted round to produce garter ridges. When you have three ridges, knit one more round and then bind off purlwise (this will produce your final garter ridge.)

Voila!! A sleeve!  Do the same to work the second sleeve and you're all done!

Note: Sleeve length can be easily customized depending on what you need: short sleeves, elbow length, long sleeves. Simply measure the child's arm from the underarm to where your want the sleeve cuff to be. As a reference you can also consult the standard sleeve lengths provided by the Craft Yarn Council for babies and children.

By the way, I am running an Entrechat KAL in my Ravelry group from June 1 to June 30! Join us, it's going to be fun!

Plus, there's 30% off both my Entrechat and Madame Entrechat patterns using the code "ENTRECHATKAL"until June 10th so don't miss out! There will be TONS of prizes: yarn, notions, patterns from many indie designers... To see the entire sponsor list, check out the second post in the Club Frogginette KAL thread)

Don't forget to use the hashtag #EntrechatKAL on your Ravelry project or social media so we can all see your contribution!

First up: Marie from Olive Knits and her wonderfully sleek, super wearable yet sophisticated designs:

• What are 5 random things people might not know about you?

-My kitchen is my zen space. I love to cook - it's a great way to unwind after a long day. 

-I like to binge-watch moody Scandinavian crime shows while I work. 

-I love secondhand and vintage shops. 

-I am an early riser to the extreme (this morning it was 3:30 AM), but it also means that I go to bed ridiculously early most nights. My friends tease me if I'm up past 9:30 PM because they know I'm dying inside. 

-When I was first married I worked as a contract seamstress for the Navy Reserve. 

• What is your style in a nutshell?

My style continues to evolve. In my early days I was still finding my footing as a designer, still trying to tap into the ideas that resonated with the style story I wanted to tell, but I feel like I'm reaching that place a little more each day. My goal is effortless, beautiful design that is as fun to knit as it is to wear. I hate to use the word 'practical,' but in reality - that really has a huge influence on my work. I want to create pieces that people want in their closets. 

• What is your favorite technique?

Goodness, it's hard to pick a favorite. I don't know if I can pick just one, but two of my favorites are Japanese Short Rows and the Horizontal Stitch, and you can see both of those demonstrated here. 

• What is/are your go-to yarn(s)?

Ooh, another tough one. I love yarns that lean toward the more natural style, and often the "crunchy" yarns really call to me - Sherwood Yarn, The Fibre Company and Rauma Finnulgarn rank high on my list. I also love supporting the work of Sincere Sheep for her commitment to sourcing and her use of natural dyes, and The Farmer's Daughter Fibers because I not only love her gorgeous colorways, but really connect with the way she draws upon her heritage and homeland for inspiration. When I need something with crisp, brilliant color, I go for Knitted Wit; I especially love her rich solids and her personal commitment to supporting meaningful causes through her business. 

• Do you have a favorite designer? Or any particular design you think is genius.

I have a couple of favorites that span opposite directions, but the one that comes to mind first is Norah Gaughan. She's been one of my design heroes for years. It's funny because my design style is nothing like Norah's, but her designs remind me to think outside the box. I've met her a couple of times and she's genuine and gracious - a true professional. 

• What is the most important thing you've learned since becoming a designer?

Compassion. Becoming a designer has really opened my eyes to the immense amount of work, love, time and resources that go into the pattern design process. Those insights have translated into a deeper appreciation for the work of my peers, and for the work of small business owners across creative genres; I'm more keenly aware of the person behind the screen/email/storefront who's hustling to make the magic happen.

• What is your best-selling pattern? Why do you think that is?

Gosh, I had to go look at the numbers. I have two best sellers that are almost tied for first place: Brookings and Beckett. I think these pieces are both incredibly versatile and wearable, and flatter a range of body types. 

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• What is the design you are the most proud of? Why?

Eek, another hard one. I'm really proud of most of them, to be honest, but I think River Light Tee is one I was especially proud of because I challenged my usual construction process, and I think the stitch transition to the lower hem was beautifully strategic. 

• What is your favorite quote or saying?

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my very nosy questions with such thoughtful answers Marie! I wish you the very best on your designing journey! You can find Marie's designs on her website (be sure to check out her blog!) as well as Ravelry. She is @oliveknits on Instagram.

Are you curious about what it takes to be a knitwear designer? What the daily routine might look like? Would you like to get to know your favorite designer? Please let me know in the comments if you'd like me to reach out to anybody in particular, and whether you'd like to me to ask any specific questions!

I have to admit, I don't wear my knits consistently.

I have phases where I will wear something I've made over and over, like this Old Growth cardigan by Tin Can Knits. When my daughter was little and still nursing, I barely left home without it (and wore it around the house as well!)

I actually tested the pattern for them way back when, and I love how comfy and easy to wear it is. 

Meanwhile some other gorgeous hand-knits have been languishing for years at the back of my closet. Wondering why exactly that is, I studied them carefully and thought about each one's perceived shortcomings. And I had a few epiphanies:

• The sleeve shaping type: I've realized that raglan generally works well for my shape. I like set-in sleeves but I am very particular about the way they should fit on my body, and I'm often disappointed in the way my hand-knits sit in the shoulder area. Very often I feel like the top of the sleeve cap is too narrow, and the seam where the sleeve attaches to the body is placed too far on the outside, towards the very edge or the shoulder or even beyond. (I have pretty square shoulders, too!) This results in the garment constantly feeling like it's slipping, not sitting well, and just not comfortable to wear.
• The sleeve ease and length: I've learned that I shouldn't just follow directions when I knit sleeves. Instead I should study the schematic a bit more carefully make sure the sleeve ease and length will work for me. I have yet to knit a sweater where the sleeve didn't turn out a bit too tight or a bit too wide. To be fair, I think I'm quite picky there as well. And perhaps I have non-standard arms :D
• The color: Have you ever noticed that the colors you are attracted to at the yarn store are not necessarily the ones that look the best on you? I love very muted hues, greys, faded lilacs, soft blues... (I mean... just look at that pile of knits above!) Yet I notice that I look much better when I wear jewel tones, deep or bright greens or reds. 
• The buttons: I have more than a few cardigans that just don't get worn because I made the wrong button choice. Annoyingly heavy buttons for a comparatively thinner yarn. Too-small buttons that slip through the buttonholes easily (this happens too if the yarn is slippery, for example if it has silk content). Cute or fancy buttons that end up distracting from the knit itself.
• The choice of yarn: Selecting the right yarn for a sweater is no small feat. I've noticed that if the yarn is too precious and delicate, I will simply not wear the garment for fear of damaging it during my day-to-day activities (my kids LOVE to yank on my sleeves to get my attention and they routinely attack me with spiky toy dinosaurs. Ouch!). On the other hand, if I'm going to invest lots of time knitting a sweater for myself, I want the yarn to be special enough. So there has to be a balance. For me, that means using a relatively rugged yarn: Malabrigo Rios, which I used for my Old Growth above, or perhaps Madelinetosh Vintage or Cascade Eco... 

What about you? What are your tips for creating wearable knits?

I think using two colors works so well for my Entrechat pattern: it underlines the unusual construction and makes the textured band really pop.

I decided to make a two-tone Entrechat using two Malabrigo Rios colorways: Water Green as the main color and Teal Feather as a contrasting color:

Here's a basic how-to:

First, a word of warning: you have to be willing to weave in a few ends! I made this using intarsia, which means that for the rows where I had contrasting color on both ends of my knitting, I used two separate balls of contrasting color yarn, one on each end, and the main color yarn for the middle.

- So before you start, wind up a small ball (about 1.5 to 2 inches - that's about 4-5 cm in diameter) from your main contrasting color (CC) yarn ball, which you'll use for the intarsia bits.

- Cast on your project using the larger ball of CC yarn and follow instructions until you have your 4 garter ridges from the cast on edge. Cut CC yarn.

- On next RS row, switch to the main color yarn (MC) and follow the pattern until the sleeve stitches are bound off. Cut MC yarn.

- Join CC (larger ball) to pick up the stitches along the raglans and until you are ready to start the "Work Body" section.

- To work the textured band:

RS: K4 in CC (from the larger ball), join MC and work as explained in the pattern to 4 sts from end of row, leave MC hanging at the back of your work and join CC from the separate small ball, k4, (it will seem like you have a big gap where you joined the yarns but this will be fixed later when you weave in the ends).

WS: K4 using the smaller ball of CC, then leave CC hanging and pick up your MC (crossing/wrapping it around the CC to close the gap) and work to 4 sts from end of row, leave MC hanging and pick up CC from the larger ball (crossing/wrapping it around the MC) and k4.

- Keep working the textured band rows in this way -- you might need to untangle your three balls of yarns once in a while -- oh the joys of colorwork ;)

- When you reach the part in the pattern where you are given the length of the textured band, work the following RS in CC using the two balls of CC yarn and leaving the MC hanging (you can "carry it" at the back of your work, just twisting it with your working yarn as you encounter it).

- When you have worked the two garter ridges and you are ready to work the increase row, work the first 4 sts in CC using the larger ball of yarn, then pick up your MC to do the increases and switch to the CC from the smaller ball for the last 4 sts. Continue in this way using the three balls of yarn until you reach the given measurements, but instead of ending on a RS row as instructed, end on a WS row. Cut the MC yarn and the CC yarn from the smaller ball of yarn.

- On the next RS: using the CC from the larger ball of yarn, knit one row. Then work the ridges with the buttonhole according to the pattern.

- Last but not least: Weave in all those ends neatly.

TA-DA! A lovely two-color Entrechat!!

By the way... I will be hosting an Entrechat KAL in June! I will announce the details soon.

Over here, things are transitioning into Spring/Summer knitting. I'm preparing a few samples for my Entrechat KAL. It will start in June and I thought it would be fun to feature so-called pattern "hacks," which are just fun mods that you can do using my pattern as a jumping board. I always like to encourage creativity and I can't wait to see what everybody comes up with.

So: here is my bicolor Entrechat, which is blocking nicely as I write. Can you guess which button I ended up chosing? Do you tend to agonize over button choice too by the way? It's kind of ridiculous how much hemming and hawing was involved in this small decision.

This week, knitting-wise, I'm planning on focusing mostly on this little number: a Colorplay Dress for a friend's soon-to-arrive baby girl. I might just do some stripes or very simple colorwork for the body, and then do the flower motif at the chest only. But I'll probably be figuring it out as I go along :)

What are you working on this week?

SpinnyGonzalez won one of the two grand prizes! I selected her Tutu Top because her choice of colors was just so fresh and spunky. I think this bright green paired with acid yellow is the perfect combination for a Spring tunic that's just the thing to wear while exploring nature:

I also chose this pretty Broderie as the recipient of the second Grand Prize! I think that Dye2Knit's project is beautiful in this classic blue with subtle tonal variations. Very romantic and sweet:

Pennster managed to whip up THREE Honey Pie dresses during the KAL! Impressive, right? Two of her projects were randomly selected and she won two of my patterns :D

Another winner was Angeldogknitter, who came up with this really gorgeous combination of colors for her Tutu Top. While the body of the sweater is purple (you know that tends to be a winner for little girls!) I love that she paired it with a more subtle powdery mauve, it really gives a nice sophistication to the project.

Another really sweet version was Alisa01's Honey Pie. I love this shade of Malabrigo Rios (Archangel), an unusual red/purple hue. And look at those sweet flower buttons she picked out!

Last but not least, Kimzboyz made this beautiful, bright blue Honey Pie with really special buttons:

So that's all for this KAL folks! Are you ready for another one in June? I am planning to host an Entrechat-hack knit-along so if you know of (or are envisioning) any fun variations of my best-selling design, chime in in the comments!

Usually I'll specify this in the pattern (this length is meant tip-to-tip by the way), but there are times when this info isn't included, or, you may only have a particular length circular needle at home and you want to know whether you can get away with not buying a new one ;) 

Note: For the purpose of this blog post I'm leaving aside other techniques such as using the magic loop technique, double-pointed needles, or more than one circular needle.

The first thing to consider is whether the garment is knit in the round or not.

• Garment is knit flat

As most of you probably know, even when a garment is knit flat (when you alternate knitting the right side and the wrong side of the fabric, also known as knitting "back and forth") you may still need to (or choose to) use circular needles, especially if the garment is seamless.

This is because you will at one point or another, end up with many stitches on your needle (for example, if the back and the two fronts of a cardigan are worked in one piece) and it could be unwieldy to use long straight needles -- though some people prefer to do this, or use double-pointed needles (it's all about personal preference.)

Another case where circular needles may be more comfortable to use when knitting flat is when you need to knit along a shape that has a curve to it, like a seamless cardigan's yoke, or the front band of a hoodie. For example, the textured band of my Latte Baby Coat is knit in one piece in a U-shape, along both fronts and the edges of the hood. Since it's difficult to knit along an angle with straight needles, the flexibility of the circular needle's cable is helpful.

In either case, you will need to figure out by quickly scanning through the pattern the maximum number of stitches that you will have on your needles for the size you are knitting and convert that to inches (divide the stitch count by your per-inch-gauge). Thankfully, most good patterns include stitch counts and this shouldn't be too difficult to locate.

In a seamless, top-down cardigan like my Hyphen cardigan, this maximum number of stitches will be right before you divide for the body and sleeves.

In a seamless, bottom-up cardigan like my Silverfox cardigan, it will be right when you start working the yoke, i.e. after you join the body and the two sleeves.

There are some exceptions: for example, my Tiered Baby Coat is constructed seamlessly and top-down, but in this case, there is a significant flare at the bottom of the garment, created by two increase rows, and the max number of stitches will be reached after those increases are completed, so you'd have to look at the length of the hem to determine your circular needle size in this case.

Once you have this max number of stitches, you can translate it into inches (by dividing it by your per-inch gauge). Let's say this number is about 30" (or 76cm). Does this mean that your standard, 24" (or 60cm) needle is too short? Well, not necessarily! A circular needle can hold 30-40% more than its length so you have some leeway. This is when it comes down to personal preference: how crammed do your stitches need be on your needles before it starts bothering you?

You start getting a feel for these things: I find that unless I'm knitting a seamless dress or flared out cardigan, a 24" circular needle will work ok for most kid's garments (at least until sizes 6yo to 8yo). After that, a longer cable, like the 36" (or 91cm) may be preferable.

• Garment is knit in the round

In this case, there is less margin for error. If you are knitting in the round, the circular needle length cannot be greater than the smallest circumference of your project.

So, if you're knitting a 3 month garment that is knit in the round, like my Tutu Top for example, a quick look at the schematic will tell you that the finished garment's chest circumference (the smallest part of the body) is 17.5" or 44cm. So, you cannot use a 24" circular needle to knit the body. You need to go down to a 16" or 40cm needle. Otherwise there simply won't be enough stitches to "populate" your too-long cable.

Here's an example in the photo below: can you see that my stitches are a little stretched out? My circular needle was a bit too long for the project but I decided to forge ahead, as I was about to start a series of increases:

For some projects, you may need to start out with a short circular needle or even double-pointed needles (for instance, if knitting a neckline in the round) and then switch over to a longer one as you work your yoke increases and your needle starts getting too crowded.

If you're knitting a hat, you are pretty much going to be fine using a 16" or 40cm circular needle to work the brim (unless you knit a tiny size in which case you may need something even smaller -- again look at the finished project circumference) but will likely need to switch to a smaller length, or use dpns as you work through the crown decreases.

I put together this quick chart as a reference, so that you can see the minimum number of stitches that you need to be able to knit comfortably in the round on a circular needle, without stretching your stitches.

So, if the recommended gauge for your project is 4 stitches per inch, and you need to knit 80 stitches in the round, you'll be better off using the 16" circular needle. The 24" won't work well, because for that length, you need at least 96 stitches.

Here's an overview of the most common circular needle lengths that are out there and what they may be typically used for:

• 8" (20cm) to 12" (or 30cm): These are a bit unusual, (using dpns or the magic loop method is more standard) but they can be used to knit narrow tubes in the round: baby hats, socks, sleeves, mittens etc...
• 16″ (40cm): These are mostly used to knit the brim portion of hats or the body of baby sweaters that are knit in the round. 
• 24" (60cm): This is probably the most versatile length, especially when it comes to knitting flat or knitting children and smaller women’s sweater bodies.
• 29" (74cm): Same as above except that it gives you a bit more room. Also good for baby blankets.
• 36″ (91cm): Generally used for flat-knitting, it's a common size used for adult cardigans as well as shawls or blankets.
• Longer length circular needles are usually used for large shawls and blankets, in particular the ones that are knit in the round.

So there you have it! I hope this info will prove useful to you. I have to confess that I'm a bit of a "knitting McGyver" myself, always trying to make do with what I have -- sometimes beyond what is reasonnable ;) What can I say? I can never seem to locate the circular needle length I need when I need it!

What about you? Do you try to make do with the needles you already have? Or are you fully prepared, with all cable lengths neatly organized and at the ready?