The best place to start looking for tempting varieties is right here at the Garden Centre, where we have a great selection available.

Amongst traditional and well proven sets giving high quality onions are ‘Red Baron’ which can be planted from February through to May producing rich red onions with a sharp flavour and ‘Sturon’ an older variety with a traditional golden yellow skin colour.

Of course whilst browsing for onions do consider looking at shallots, which are so loved in classical French cookery. A traditional favourite which is great for cooking or pickling is ‘Picasso’ well know for its uniform crop this is an excellent variety which also can be harvested earlier than many varieties and is resistant to bolting.

Your planting bed should be sunny and well drained - If you are on heavy soils then add grit or prepared organic matter. Onion and shallot sets like fertile soils but not freshly manured sites. Once you have dug the area over rake it to an even tilth. Using a dibber make holes 10cm apart and deep enough to push the set in and firm soil around the collar. This is important, as birds are likely to pull at them, and you can net the area to prevent this. Bulbs planted in February and March should be ready to harvest from July at the earliest.

There is a great range available these days from the traditional early favorites such as ‘Maris Bard’ and ‘Lady Christi’ to salad varieties ‘Charlotte’ and ‘Nicola’ to main-crops like ‘King Edward’.

How to Chit!

'Chit' your chosen varieties by laying out in a cool light place to encourage the growth of the eyes. Some people suggest removing a number of these developing sturdy little shoots but you can leave them all intact if you prefer, as rubbing off often causes smaller crops of bigger potatoes. Remember to clearly label each variety as you go.

Early potatoes can be grown in barrel like containers and there are a number available - have a look at our great range - making them ideal if space is at a premium. You can also use potato sacks which are now widely available. Because Early potatoes are in the ground for such a short while, being harvested 13 weeks after planting in March, a good multi-purpose compost can be used for planting into the bags, again we have a great range available!

When planting out in a few weeks In the open ground, potatoes will act as a great conditioner for newly turned vegetable plots but remember to plant them in trenches at least 30cm deep with a good layer of well rotted manure or potato fertiliser such as Vitex or Growing Success Organic Potato Fertiliser.

When the foliage begins to appear an application of soluble slug killer such as Nemaslug will keep on top of the slugs who have a habit of eating the young succulent foliage.

Green groups have lashed out after one of Britain’s most influential organic gardeners demanded the right to use peat in his garden.
Writing in Amateur Gardening magazine, Bob Flowerdew, the BBC Radio 4 Gardeners’ Question Time panellist, broke the ultimate organic taboo: he confessed to using a small amount of peat in loam-based sowing compost.
Anticipating a backlash, Bob joked that his actions would be considered “much worse” than fox hunting, owing a patio heater or being a banker!
But on a serious note, Bob argued that peat was a renewable resource and suggested: “Why not let us have a licensing regime for peat sourced from managed and sustainable sites, like FSC certification for sustainably-sourced hardwood timber?”
Environmentalists were quick to hit back. Regional campaigner at Friends of the Earth, Helen Rimmer, said: “We are disappointed that Bob Flowerdew has used his magazine column to promote peat when, as an organic grower, he should be promoting peat-free alternatives. It’s going in the opposite direction.
“We face an urgent climate change crisis and peat bogs are vital carbon sinks, as well as being home to thousands of insects and birds. There is very little lowland bog left, so it’s vital we protect what remains.
“The last thing we need is an influential organic gardener calling for the use of peat when peat-alternatives are now just as good. There is no valid argument for using peat in the garden.”
Charity Garden Organic disagreed with Bob, too. Chief executive Myles Bremner said: “How Bob gardens is his choice, but as the UK’s leading organic organisation we don’t believe there’s any need or justification for using peat.
“Minimising peat use to virtually nothing is what we want more people to do. However, the fact remains that if every gardener took Bob’s approach to peat, then the nation would still be using more than mere handfuls of it, which isn’t sustainable.”
But AG editor Tim Rumball stuck up for Bob. Tim said: “Any common sense debate about peat has become swamped by hysterical invective from environmentalists and opportunistic politicians who deliberately fail to look at the bigger picture.
“Everyday activities like driving a car, switching on a light or using a cooker are seriously more damaging than using small amounts of peat to grow plants. No gardener wants to harm the environment – growing plants is a creative and environmentally beneficial pastime.”
The government wants to ban peat use by amateur gardeners by 2020.
But in spring Alan Titchmarsh, also an organic gardener, admitted he still used a small amount of peat.
 

No hope of getting a plot

Gardeners hoping to secure a plot in Enfield, where BBC Gardeners’ World presenter Joe Swift has a plot, are in for a disappointment, as the leafy London borough has closed its allotment waiting lists. Other councils turning applicants away are:
• Redditch, Wellingborough, North Hertfordshire, Woking, Waltham Forest, Elmbridge, South Derbyshire, Slough, Lambeth, Telford and Wrekin, Barnet, Haringey, Preston, Melton, Brighton and Hove, Stockport, Greenwich, Swindon, South Tyneside, Eastleigh, Bury, Hounslow, Barnsley, Mid-Sussex, Merton, Brent, Hinckley and Bosworth, Arun, Islington and Camden.
 

The BBC failed to respond to Amatuer Gardening's request for comment.

Pictures of Percy Thrower (left) and David Domoney supplied by Amatuer Gardening Magazine

Pictures: BRITAIN IN BLOOM COMMUNITY GROUPS IN MANCHESTER AND NOTTINGHAM

Picture and article provided by Amatuer Gardening

Picture and news item courtesy of Amatuer Gardening

Planting amaryllis now will bring colour in the darkest winter months, says Amateur Gardening’s Michelle Wheeler

IN JANUARY, when the weather is bleak and the garden is less appealing to wander around, I look for a blast of colour in the house. Yes, we have daffodils and hyacinths to grow in pots, but it is the amaryllis (or the hippeastrum if you prefer) that bowls me over.
The supersized flowers are big and loud, and they definitely add a splash of colour in the New Year dullness (they also make great party gifts – an amaryllis bulb will make a pleasant change from turning up with a bottle of wine or a
box of chocolates).
The bulbs can be planted (or, more correctly, potted up) indoors any time between October and January. They should flower approximately seven weeks afterwards.
I plant a few over a period of weeks to make sure at least one is at the right stage of growth to give as a gift, or to provide colour in the house.
Stem heights vary, but may reach up to 3ft (90cm) – they definitely deserve pride of place in a sunny spot indoors. And this year I intend to keep them going – to save money next year! Follow my aftercare tips (right) for year-on-year dazzle!

After flowering

* Once the bulb has finished flowering, feed weekly with a general liquid fertiliser.
* Site it outdoors during summer; avoid strong sunlight; keep the compost moist.
* In September bring it into a cool room. Reduce watering. Stop feeding – to induce the plant into a period of dormancy. Cut any old leaves off, to within 4in(10cm) of the neck of the bulb. Refresh the top inch or two of compost. Leave for about eight weeks (check for water occasionally).
* In November or December bring the bulb into warmer conditions and grow on to flowering.
* If your amaryllis needs re-potting, do this after flowering, usually every two years.

Potting up an amaryllis bulb
Step-by-step

1
Half fill a 7in (17.5cm) or a 5litre pot with a good potting compost. Check the bulb over for any signs of mould or infection; it should be firm to touch.

2
Carefully sit the bulb firmly onto the compost surface, root end down; do not press down too hard as this will damage the delicate roots.

3
Fill in around the bulb with compost, making sure that the neck and top part are showing above. Water in, and site in a warm, sunny place.

QUICK TIP
Once your amaryllis bulb is planted, do not let the compost dry out... but don’t leave it standing in water
 

Guard woody plants

Place tree guards or chicken wire around young trees and woody shrubs that is prone to attack from rabbits, deer and squirrels. This will help prevent any damage to bark which in turn could induce diseases.

Snail hunt

Check regularly under pots, compost bags and in the greenhouse or cold frame for collections of snails and slugs. Get rid of them now to reduce the amount of trouble you may have in spring. Look out for slivery trails as a sign of these pests camping down for winter. They can still be very destructive especially if they are in your greenhouse where it is nice and warm and may not need to hibernate.

Herb care

If the weather is mild in your region it is still possible to plant perennial herbs such a sage. If not protect any already herbs, which are frost tender with fleece or bring inside.
 

Planting one tree may seem but a tiny step on the road to ameliorating local climate change, but The Tree Council and Environment Secretary Caroline Spelman believe that every tree matters.

During National Tree Week 2011, The Tree Council is urging everyone who cares for their environment to take that step and put one tree – or more – in the ground. Not simply because it is a carbon sequestration and storage tool and a regulator of the urban microclimate that takes up air pollution, nor because it ameliorates adverse effects of weather, reducing windspeeds on blustery days, giving shade on hot days, cooling the air, reducing heating and air conditioning costs and saving energy, which in turn cuts down air pollution caused by burning fossil fuels – though it is, and does, all of these things. No, the benefits of a tree extend far beyond.

Every tree has a role in moderating rainstorm impact as part of sustainable drainage systems and storm water management, lessening the likelihood of flash floods. Each one makes a major contribution to the restoration of derelict and degraded land after the ravages of industrial development, waste disposal or other man-made blights, and creates a more pleasant environment in which to live. The UK’s native trees, individually and in woodlands, provide great habitats for wildlife and the sustainable cultivation of trees for renewable low-energy construction materials, charcoal, food, and as an alternative energy source are significant ways in which every tree will matter, more and more, in years to come.

“A tree planted close to where you live, work or study is good for you and for the nation’s condition; trees have been proven to have positive effects on mental health and as an antidote to stressful lifestyles, even aiding recuperation from illness.” commented Pauline Buchanan-Black, Director-General of the Tree Council. “However, to be able to look out on a tree simply lifts my soul and gladdens my heart. That, at bottom, seems to me to be one of the most compelling reasons to argue that everyone should be able to see a tree from their window - and if you can’t, then now is the time to set about changing the view. Every tree matters as much for the beauty, growth and renewal, whether in urban or rural settings, that it demonstrates year on year as for the very practical benefits it brings.”

National Tree Week also sees the first anniversary of the launch of The Big Tree Plant, the partnership between civil society and Government in England to encourage the planting of trees by communities. Environment Secretary Caroline Spelman said: “Trees are an important part of every community and necessary to our very existence. The Tree Council’s National Tree Week is the perfect time to inspire more people to plant trees in their local communities. It will see thousands more planted right across the country, helping to create neighbourhoods that everyone can be proud of.” Buchanan Black added “The Tree Council applauds the efforts of the people who have already realised that every tree matters and successfully applied for Big Tree Plant funds to take that first step with their own community projects“.
 

Taking root cuttings is a simple technique, and now is a good time

My grandfather would always say to me that gardening does not stop in the colder months, and how right he was. Yes the workload slows down but there are still many tasks that can be done. One of these is taking root cuttings. Root cuttings are taken from plants that naturally send out suckers and are usually vigorous growers. Root cuttings have their advantages against other cuttings, so although they are slow to show that they have ‘taken’, they are less susceptible to pest and diseases and are frost hardy; so little care is needed apart from in the worst of the winter weather. You’d think that taking root cuttings would damage the parent plant, but it is worth remembering that a plant will quickly produce roots to survive. Always use a clean sharp knife for cuttings and clean in-between cuts with an alcoholic wipe or hot water to decrease the chance of soil borne diseases entering the cuts. Take them now and by spring you will have new plants to pot on.

Top Tip
If taking root cuttings from a plant established well in the ground try to minimise root disturbance.

Plants that can be propagated by root cuttings

Phlox paniculata
Papaver orientalis
Verbascum
Phlox paniculata
Echinacea purpurea
Dicentra
Acanthus spinosus

Shrubs
Aralia elata
Rhus typhina
Chaenomeles
Rubus

Taking root cuttings, step by step

1 Once roots have been exposed, wash them with water so you can see clearlywhat roots are suitable for propagation. Herbaceous plants can be lifted, shrubs will require a section of the roots in the soil to be exposed and then washed.

2 Cut away a strong, pencil thick root as close to the crown as possible. Divide it into 2-3in (5-7cm) sections. Make a slanting cut at the base of the root and a straight cut at the top. Remove fibrous roots from the cutting.

3 Insert the cuttings into a 3in (7cm) pot, placing the angled cut down. The top should be level with the compost. Cover with grit, coarse sand or vermiculite. Water and place in a sheltered spot or cold frame.

Dealing with thin roots

Root cuttings if taken from a plant with thin roots can also be cut straight across on each side and placed horizontally about a 1in (2.5cm) apart in small trays and covered with sieved cutting compost.
 

The winter Jasmine is probably the most widely planted true winter flowering shrub.

The bright yellow flowers on green leafless branches are produced from November through to February during mild spells. They are very easy to grow and happy in a very wide range of soil types. They grow taller against a wall of fence but east facing positions should be avoided.

There is just the one type which has been given the Award of Garden Merit accolade.

Freely available at all good garden centres

WITH GARDENING I find the best way for me to keep on top of jobs is to spread them out. I always plant some herbaceous perennials in the spring, but I also like to plant some in the autumn to balance my workload. In fact some perennials do better planted now; with late frosts and very changeable weather in spring, the perennials I plant in autumn seem to fair better.
This is because the soil is moist and still warm enough for the roots to establish and settle. It gives the plant a good start to grow and flower next year. Obviously if you live in an area prone to early frosts you may have to re-think your timings, but in most of the UK, October planting is perfect for perennials. These plants are the backbone to our borders or containers, adding height, texture and colour. Don’t feel you have to just put tall plants at the back. Fill gaps in the middle with tall plants and medium plants in the front to avoid a regimented look and to create a natural flow. So follow my tips on these pages on planting perennials now.

Planting Tips

Plant a range of perennials that will give you colour and interest throughout the year. You might try helleborus for spring, alstroemeria for summer and Acanthus spinosus for autumn colour.

Take the time to get the spacing right. If planting in autumn think about how big they will grow next year when in flower and growth.

Be brave and plant one thing out of your comfort zone. This will improve your confidence in planting and co-ordinating your border.

Fill gaps with autumn planted bulbs to create an ongoing display of flowers from late winter and throughout spring and summer.

When buying on-line take note of the size of the plant’s container. Some may come very small and be a disappointment if you were expecting a bigger plant.

Label perennials after planting, especially if they die back, so you can remember where they are in your bed for next season

Planting herbaceous perennials step by step

1
Water the plant well if in a container. Bare root perennials need to soak in a bucket of water for an hour or two. Dig a hole twice the size of the rootball.

2
Check for signs of pest and disease on roots; tease roots slightly apart if from a container. Add some Mycorrhizal fungi to the planting hole.

3
Pop the plant in, backfill with soil, firm and water in. Label the plant, or keep a note of variety and size if you think too many labels look unsightly.

Some perennials are best planted in spring

SOME HERBACEOUS perennials are best planted after the last spring frosts. The perennials that are best suited to spring planting, are those which are half-hardy or tender, though this will depend on where you are in the UK.
Spring planted perennials may also flower slightly later and may not be at their best until the year after. Plant perennials in spring the same way as in autumn. Those planted in spring may need more watering and protection against late frost or early heat. The ones to keep waiting are:
Salvia
Agapanthus
Verbena bonariensis
Delphiniums
Coleonema pulchellum
Heliotrope
Geranium palmatum
Pelargoniums
 

These stunning plants are available from all good Garden Centres

Now in its 12th year, Greenfingers has just finished garden number 35 and has identified many more children’s hospices that need our help over the coming months and years.

Greenfingers gardens are very special to children and their families because they make a real difference to the quality of their lives.

Our gardens mean that children can spend more time together with their family outside, benefiting from the therapeutic elements of nature, at play, or in the calm privacy surrounded by nature and above all – away from the bedside and medical environment.

All the Greenfingers gardens are built according to the specific need of each individual hospice taking into account the children and families they support.

Every year our 35 magical gardens give benefit to at least 200 children and families.

The gardens range from family gardens, play gardens, sensory and reflective gardens right through to remembrance gardens – they are all unique – as are the children who enjoy and benefit from them.

Each Greenfingers garden is special because every day is so precious for children in hospices.

Any company, whether manufacturer, retailer or any other business who would like to help us in raising money to create more gardens to help more children in hospices, we would really like to talk to you. Please contact us on 01494 674749 or email to info@greenfingerscharity.org.uk
 

Cleaning

Cleaning inside and out for winter is very important – if you have the time to do just one thing in your greenhouse/cold frame, clean it. Check guttering and clean, wash all windows inside and out to make the most of light levels. Weed, scrub pots, workstations, staging, and trays. This will all help keep diseases down.

Insulating

Insulate your greenhouse to help retain more heat through the colder months.
Measure all sides of the greenhouse and the roof. Use pins, clothes pegs or specially designed clips (from garden centres) to secure in place. When buying bubble wrap make sure it is designed for greenhouses. It will have larger bubbles, be UV-Stablised and last longer.

Pest and diseases

Many pests and fungal diseases can survive through winter in a greenhouse. Spidermite will overwinter, scale will continue to spread and whitefly can cause an infestation. Slugs also enjoy greenhouses and their warm, damp conditions during the colder weather. Check daily and treat if needed. Cleaning will keep pests down. Continue using sticky traps to catch flying insects. Prevention is better than cure.

Soil care

If you have a soil border in your greenhouse, now is the time to dig it over. If you have been growing tomatoes either replace the soil or rest it from growing them next year to make sure viruses do not build up. Feed the soil with well rotted manure or compost. Water through winter so it does not dry out. Turn over to improve soil structure.

Plant care

* Move plants into the centre of the greenhouse to reduce risk of frost damage – greenhouses are colder around the sides. If the plant is touching the glass it may get frost damage.

* Check plants daily for dryness and water when necessary, water if possible during the day when light is at its best.

* Store compost inside in case you need to use it, so it is not frozen, easy to use and the structure is not ruined.
 

Sweet peas add charm and a glorious smell in our gardens, now is the time to sow explains Michelle and Kris, from Amateur Gardening

Sweet peas, (Lathyrus odoratus) are a sure fire winner in our gardens. They give scent, colour and the tall climbing varieties, structure. Sweet peas can be planted during October and November and again in February March and April, depending where you live. Sowing now gives the plants a healthy growing start and they will probably flower earlier. Seeds are best bought pre-chitted and most of them are, you can tell by looking closely and seeing a slight mark of yellow, or pale white against the dark outer casing of the seed. Some people do soak them but this increases the chance that may rot. Most varieties do not need to be soaked.
There are so many to choose from and it will depend on the colour you want and the space you have. There are now varieties on the market that do well in pots and hanging baskets they bush out more and do not get so high, perfect for the patio or smaller garden.

TOP TIP
Pinch out the tops of seedlings when about 8in(20cm) tall for bushier plants.

STEP BY STEP

Succesful sweet pea sowing

1) Fill root trainer trays with good quality seed compost, water and using a dibber make small holes I each section. Normal modular trays can be used, but sweet pea roots are long and will be better condition in root trainers.

2) Place one seed in each hole at a depth of 0.5in(1cm). If sowing in pots place five seeds in each pot and cover to the same depth. Water and cover with polythene case or bag if in pots.

3) If sowing this autumn keep the seeds at about 59˚F (15˚c) until germination then transfer the seedlings to a cold frame. Protect if the weather conditions are bad over winter, they are usually very hardy but a long severe frost may damage them. Plant out in spring.