Gardening ABC

How To Hydroponics, Growing Without Soil

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:40:00 +0000

The growing of plants without soil is called Hydroponics. It is widely used to grow lush, healthy indoor plants and good quality vegetables, fruits and herbs. Plants absorb nutrients as simple ions in water. The nutrients in the soil dissolve in water and the plant roots absorb them. When the plants get adequate nutrients, the soil is no longer required for the plant to thrive. With the use of proper nutrients and the right artificial light source, an indoor gardener can achieve amazing results. A complete controlled environmental agriculture system should have controlled light, temperature, water, CO2, oxygen, pH and nutrients.

Hydroponics is simple and efficient. On alternate days a pH check is done and the water level is topped up. The nutrient is changed every 7 to 12 days. To turn the light and garden on and off automatically, a timer is often used. Amongst the different forms of Hydroponics, deep water is the purest form since the roots are directly exposed to the nutrient solution. “Deep Water” systems use a small air pump to keep the solution well oxygenated.

Another method of Hydroponics is the Ebb & Flow or Flooding & Draining systems. The root system and growing mediums like Rockwool are soaked at specific intervals. The Ebb & Flow method makes it easier to cultivate plants in minimal space. In Deep Water Culture (DWC), the roots are allowed to drop down into an aerated nutrient solution. This solution is aerated with the help of standard aquarium pumps and sir stones. The solution must be topped up from time to time. Drip feeding is similar to Ebb & Flow, except that the pump delivers a continuous tickle of nutrients and water. The emitters run 5 to 10 minutes every hour.

Another method of Hydroponics is Wick feeding, where the plant draws water with the help of a wick which runs from the base of the plant container to a bottle of nutrient feed solution. Through capillary action, the solution travels up to the plant through the wick. In Raft cultivation, plants are inserted inside sheets of expanded polystyrene with the roots hanging down through the holes. The sheet is then floated in a shallow tank of nutrient solution. In Nutrient film technique (NFT), the plants grow through light-proof plastic films placed over shallow, gently sloping channels. The roots grow into dense mats with a thin film of nutrients passing over them. Aeroponics is a class of Hydroponics where the roots of a plant are suspended in a midst or fog of nutrient rich solution.

Different media are used for Hydroponics. Expanded clay, Rockwool, Coco coir, Perlite, Vermiculite and Oasis root cubes are some of them. Due to constant problems of chemicals and other contaminants in the food supply, people are looking for a safer alternative. Hydroponics fits the requirement appropriately.

How To Create A Backyard Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:34:00 +0000

For every home, a garden is not just an extension of one's home, but a place to relax, unwind and soak up the nature. A beautifully contoured landscape, blooming flowers and just spending restful hours in the midst of beauty is what every homeowner yearns for. Gardening can definitely become a passion; when you get to pick your very own fresh vegetables and fruits. Although there are landscaping firms who can take care of your backyard just as well; but you could end up paying thousands of dollars just to recarpet a lawn and perhaps a little more to maintain it. It is especially important for the beginner gardener to choose the right types of plants, determine the spot in the backyard where the garden needs to be designed; select the right garden space, adopt appropriate techniques to take care of oneâ€™s plants in the backyard and much more. Pre-plan each and every step before setting up your backyard garden, so it becomes a fun filed adventure rather than a nightmarish ritual.

Research and Analyze

The first step is to evaluate the maintenance needs of your garden and pre-determine the space that needs to be allocated to the garden in your backyard. Design your garden with a practical approach and pre-set a budget for yourself. If you face a paucity of time; try and find solutions to high-maintenance issues. A systematic approach will lead you to decide on the right tools required for the development and maintenance of your backyard garden. Alternatively; opt for a weekend backyard garden that needs little to moderate maintenance. Also, take into consideration the current condition of your backyard. In case your backyard has a few existing plants; you would need to decide on which plants you require and the ones that you need to get rid of.

Keep it simple and uncluttered

The focus should be on having a breathable garden rather than a cluttered one. Make sure that your garden is not overcrowded with plants; or it will lend it a cluttered look. Besides that; having too many plants will just attract insects and mosquitoes. Best approach is to draw a rough sketch of the garden lay-out and take into account every minute detail.

Selecting the Right Kinds of Plants

If the homeowner wants that their garden should attract butterflies; they should opt for plants that butterflies are strongly attracted to. These plants include aspen, dill, aster, lilac, pansy, milkweed, marigold, clover, chokecherry, aster and dill among others.

Identifying the right spot

The direction of the sun in your backyard is the deciding factor when identifying the right spot for your garden. North corners are ideal for ferns. The southern direction gives constant sun exposure all day long and each side gets balanced warmth from the sun. The rows should be aligned north and south; so the plants get the sun rays during morning and afternoon hours. If the garden is facing towards the southeast; it may be subjected to little or moderate western sun. In this case; run the rows northwest and southeast for an even sunlight distribution. The northern exposure is definitely not a very good idea; as it would not receive any sunlight. For north-eastern and south-western directions; the plants may be subjected to an uneven distribution of sunlight. The idea therefore; is to plan it in a way that the garden plants receive an evenly distributed sunlight for the longest time period.

The Garden Soil

A new garden spot is most likely covered either with turf or rubbish. For a larger garden area; the ploughing of the ground is done whereas with smaller gardens; the sod is removed. In order to remove the sod; stake out the garden path. The line will help you with an accurate course to be followed. Then you would need to cut the edges along the marked line with the help of a spade. The sod can be put to good use as it makes a good fertilizer. Here you have two options to choose from:
1. You could turn the sod over after having dug holes in your garden. The sod can then be put in the hole and then cover it with soil.
2. Identify a spot where the sod grass can be packed together. Leave it to rot. Over a period of time; it can be used as fertilizer.

Make sure that the ground where the planting needs to take place is fine so that the seeds get finely packed into the soil particles. Avoid large lumps as these create larger spaces and the tiny hair root of the plant will not be able to penetrate though.
Make sure that you do a fair amount of research beforehand and lap up on as much gardening tips and information as possible.

Greenhouses - what plants will you grow?

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 14:37:00 +0000

A garden is like a blank canvas, in which you can put almost anything you want. Whether it’s a place to sit, or things to eat, or just things to look at, you can put them in your garden – an outdoor space of your very own.

The most common thing to do with gardens is to fill them with plants, especially grass lawns, but also bushes and trees. It can be very rewarding to see what you planted only a few months ago starting to take root – and then, over the years, seeing it grow larger and thrive. While it takes care and attention, gardening is a hobby that many people feel they can get into.

Once you’re good enough to plant flowers and bushes and have them survive from season to season, you might even feel brave enough to start growing some of your own food, using your greenhouse. There are many crops you can grow even in a modestly-sized garden that will produce a lot of food and taste very good when you harvest them – root vegetables like potatoes and carrots work very well, as do berry bushes and apple trees. Food tastes much better when you know you’ve grown it yourself, and you save money too.

If you’re less green fingered than that, you can put other things in your garden apart from plants. It’s not difficult to build a brick barbecue, for example, get some chairs and invite people round. You might like to build a patio or decking where you can sit away from the garden itself but still outdoors. Various kinds of paths and rock features are also popular things to put in a garden, as are decorative ornaments like garden gnomes and model birds. If you’re a fan of fish and water life, you can even dig yourself a pond, and get various animals and plants to put in it.

Build an Hi Tech Greenhouse

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:58:00 +0000

You probably don’t want to be constantly looking after your greenhouse yourself, opening the windows when it gets too hot, going round every few days and all the rest. It’s much easier to get automatic systems to do these chores for you.

To water your plants, you should install irrigation systems. These are basically small pipes that run underground and slowly release water into the soil – greenhouse models are very similar to the ones used on commercial farms, only smaller. These irrigation systems allow you to quite simply and easily set how much water your plants are getting with a tap, instead of you having to go and water them all by hand. Many plants will also respond better to being watered at the roots than they do to being watered on the topsoil, and they will often grow bigger, which is an added bonus.

The other thing you need is a cooling system. While it might seem odd to have a cooling system in a greenhouse, it is possible for them to get so hot inside that all the plants will get cooked and die, especially in a hot summer. Again, the cooling system will be a series of underground pipes, allowing hot air to be taken down underground and stored during the day, and then released when it is cooler in the night.

While greenhouses might seem to be quite basic things altogether, though, there’s nothing stopping you from going all high-tech with them. More advanced systems have electronic climate control, allowing you to set the exact temperature of your greenhouse, and will open and close underground tubes and other escape routes for hot air in order to keep the temperature in your greenhouse tightly controlled. This can be useful for growing plants that only do well in one specific climate, such as some kinds of tropical flowers.

3 Easy Tips for Butterfly Gardening

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:11:00 +0000

Butterfly gardens require several things to be successful: plants, water, and the right gardening attitude. We can easily create lists of plants that butterflies love. Consider planting Asters, Joe-Pye weed, Black-eyed Susans, Lantana, Butterfly Bush, Butterfly Weed, Liatris, Pentas, Coreopsis and Purple Coneflowers. These are gorgeous plants and butterflies will flock to them in large numbers.

Gardeners can easily provide water by soaking the ground in an area next to favourite plants or by having small dishes/birdbaths with water in the garden. By providing water, you’ll attract butterflies. If you have a small pond, lay a stick on the edge so one end is in the water and one end on the shore. This will provide an easy entranceway for both butterflies and frogs. It also looks more realistic than bare edged ponds.

And finally, we need to create a gardening attitude that says that in order to get those gorgeous butterflies, we need to feed the caterpillars that hatch out to be butterflies. It is OK to plant specific plants these immature insects require and it is OK if they chew them up. You have to have food in your garden for all phases of this creature if you want to attract them. The tip is to plant the following plants at the back of the garden so you wont’ see the damage. Plant Wild Asters, Clover, Hollyhocks, Lupines, Mallows, Marigolds, Milkweed, Nettles and Thistles, Parsley, Passionflower (in baskets) Plantain, Snapdragons, Sorrel, Turtlehead and Violets.

Easy Landscaping Ideas

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 15:15:00 +0000

One of the main hassles of a garden is not planting, but weeding. Weeds grow with remarkable speed and can quickly overtake a garden. Using a poison or herbicide like roundup is not recommended as you might kill your plants. I know that the manufacturers claim the product breaks down in the soil very quickly but I find with my lawn edges after a second dose of roundup no grass is growing there six months later.

In moving into a new rental property I had a large front garden with a nice quickkerb concrete border to highlight the beautiful weeds. So I began to weed, got sick of it and left it for a month. Big mistake, there were now more weeds than ever. I was going to have to have mulch it or spend everyday in the garden. With the landlord not interested in paying for it it was going to have to come out of my own pocket. Now I don't mine paying for gardening supplies, plants, etc when its my own place, but I'm certainly not keen on giving my landlord a free ride.

So I needed a cheap mulching option, that would look good, work, but not cost too much. I chose three basic supplies, newspaper -the local rags free and it doesn't take long to build up a stock pile of papers, sugar cane mulch - its comes in a big bags and is cheap, and finally a few bags of bark - not so cheap, but as you will see its used to give colour not as a mulch so only a little bit is required.

Step One
Prepare the garden, yes this means a huge effort and weed the whole garden by hand. Rake over the soil so its nice and smooth and then apply the newspaper. The thicker the better.
Min. six sheets thick. Spread it out and then with a hose wet it all down so it soaked. The now heavy paper won't blow around in the wind and will mold better to the grounds surface.

Step Two
Next spread out the sugar cane mulch. If you cant access cheap sugar cane mulch, try straw, but ensure it has no seeds in it. Make sure all the paper is covered. It doesn't have to be deep, just enough to cover all the paper. Once again apply water to damp down the mulch. Once watered it takes on a lovely golden colour.

Step Three
Now apply the bark. Just grab handfulls and throw it around. You don't want to totally cover the yellow mulch, the barks mainly to give colour and to contrase with the mulch.

I have found this to be a very effective mulch. A year later and few weeds can get through. Nutgrass was the only successful one and I pulled those out by hand and even the nutgrass gave up the fight. The beautiful browns and golden colour unfortunately fade under the harsh sun, but by that time you should have plenty of flower to make up for it.

Dandelion - A Garden Delight

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 17:44:00 +0000

The Latin name for dandelion, Taraxacum officinale, translates to “official remedy for disorders.” Dandelion is a native of Europe and the name comes from the French term “dent-de-lion,” meaning lion’s tooth, which refers to the dark-green, sharply toothed leaves characteristic of this plant. A prominent herbalist, Gregory Tilford is quoted as saying, “Dandelion is one of the most complete plant foods on earth. All the vital nutrients are conveniently contained in a single source, in quantities that the body can easily process and fully absorb.” One source I consulted during research for this article suggested that “dandelion greens are so good for you that you would do well to dry and powder them and place the powder in a saltshaker to be sprinkled on all your food as a nutritional supplement.”

Called the “King of Weeds” by old timers, the Chinese have known about the antibacterial properties of the juice of the dandelion since the 7th century. In fact, it is one of the top 6 herbs in the Chinese medicine chest. In Chinese medicine, it is regarded as a blood cleanser, tonic, digestive aid, and used in the treatment of diabetes. It is ground and applied as a poultice to snake bites. In Canada, dandelion leaves are considered to be safe to eat, and dandelion root is already marketed as a registered diuretic drug by Health Canada. Canada imports most of its dandelion from the U.S.A. although it could be easily cultivated in Canada.

The whole plant is valuable as a general tonic as it is a general stimulant to the system, particularly the urinary organs. It may be taken as an infusion of the leaf, a juice extraction, a root decoction, a fluidextract, or a tincture. Fresh leaves may be added to salads. The juice extraction is the most potent for medicinal purposes. The milky latex from dandelion can be used as a mosquito repellent.

Dr. Peter A. Gail, in his book, “The Dandelion Celebration – The Guide to Unexpected Cuisine” writes that dandelion eaten as part of your daily diet prevents or cures liver disease; assists in weight reduction; cleanses skin and prevents acne; eliminates or drastically reduces acid indigestion and gas build-up by cutting the heaviness of fatty foods; lowers serum cholesterol by as much as half; prevents or lowers blood pressure; prevents or cures various forms of cancer; and prevents or controls diabetes mellitus, while at the same time having no negative side effects and selectively acting on only what ails you.

Dandelion leaf is a good natural source of potassium and will replenish any potassium that may be lost due to the herb’s diuretic action on the kidneys. The leaves are the richest green vegetable source of beta-carotene, contain more iron and calcium than spinach, are rich in fibre, sodium, magnesium, Vitamins B-1, B-2, B-5, B-6, B-12, C, E, P, and D, phosphorous, iron, a good source of protein, and rich in micronutrients such as copper, cobalt, zinc, and molybdenum. You can buy dandelion greens at speciality-produce sections of most grocery stores; leaves, tinctures, and products at organic grocery and health food stores, or grow your own.

ATTENTION: If you are harvesting dandelions, make sure the plants have not been sprayed with any pesticides or herbicides, as they will contain poisons. Getting rid of lawn dandelions using pesticides may pose health risks to adults, children, and pets.

How to Build a Greenhouse

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 01:02:00 +0000

As with garden sheds, there are two ways to build a greenhouse: you can either buy the sheets of glass and the frame and do it yourself, or you can hire a professional. However, building a greenhouse can be a lot harder than building a garden shed, which is why even experienced DIY enthusiasts might want to think about calling in some professional help.

The main reason greenhouses are difficult to build is the material that they’re made from: glass. If you drop glass or install it wrongly, it will shatter, meaning that any mistakes you make will start to get expensive fast. Would you put in your own windows? If not, you probably shouldn’t be building a greenhouse. If greenhouses are built incorrectly, not only is it dangerous, but it is unlikely that any of your plants will actually grow properly. Also, it is very difficult to build greenhouses when the sun is shining, as you will get very hot – it’s easier to do it in the winter or the night, but then those are hardly ideal building conditions either.

It can also be complicated to install the necessary irrigation and air circulation systems that a greenhouse needs to function well, although this is less of a problem in a small greenhouse.

If you are going to hire a professional to either build your greenhouse for you or help you, however, make sure that they have the relevant certification and qualifications. Because glass is such a dangerous material, you should steer clear of anyone who seems confident but inexperienced, and only hire someone who knows what they’re doing, even if it is at a relatively high price. If you’re having trouble finding someone, contact the company that sold you the greenhouse originally, as they should have a list of registered installers in your area.

Weekend Gardening Experience

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 17:47:00 +0000

It's vital to start the process of having a hassle-free garden. This article gives you that first step and helps achieve some sound understanding of what you face as a weekend gardener. Our goal is to create a garden that practically takes care of itself. Unlike my neighbor, Charles.

Charles never found a way to escape the prison of responsibilities and hard, never-ending work required by a high-maintenance garden.

If you want to avoid Charles's fate, you need to start by making a critical examination of the maintenance of your yard and garden.

Start by taking a stroll around your property and make note of how much time you take to tend to various areas.

• Which plants require the most care, right now?
• Are there areas that please you and take less care?
• Are there some areas that you love so much that no matter how much maintenance they take you'd not want to change them?
• Can you visualize any areas being scaled down in size, or that can be improved with a low-maintenance design or gardening technique?
• Where is the problem weeding area?
• Which is the most difficult mowing area of your lawn?

Everyone has a different take on this subject. Some hate mowing the lawn, others actually enjoy the exercise and like getting out in the sun. Some find weeding tedious, others will enjoy the process of grabbing weeds by the fistful and yanking them forcefully out of the ground. I have a cousin who has actually been found to wonder into neighbors yards yanking the critters up (much to the surprise and cheerful appreciation of his neighbors) after he had run out of them in his own yard.

So, part of your ‘yard tour' is to make note of the areas that require work; how you feel about each one, and listing which are particularly time-consuming.

Once you're done, take your list and make a check mark (!) next to those items that you intend to keep no matter how much maintenance they may require. Then put a question mark (?) Next to the ones you enjoy looking at, but are nonetheless high-maintenance and take too much work. Later you will discover timesaving techniques you can surely apply to many of these problem areas.

Now plan on making your aim to eliminate those areas left UNMARKED. You'll want low maintenance ways to turn these areas into sources of pleasure, instead of drudgery. However, you can't DO anything to lessen the strain until you first SEE the problems out there in your yard. So do this tour as a first step to achieve true joy and freedom in your gardening experience.

How to Grow Herbs at Home

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 11:27:00 +0000

In a botanical sense, an herb is a plant that does not produce a woody stem and dies back to the ground each winter to a perennial root system. Herbaceous plants in the landscape and garden normally include annuals, perennials, biennials, bulbs and grasses.

In the garden sense, herbs are plants that serve as a major source of seasonings in the preparation of foods. In an even broader sense, herbs include those plants that are also useful for scents in cosmetics or for medicinal purposes. Some of them are woody and outstep the definition of a herbaceous plant.

In the gardens of American pioneers, herbs were the major source of seasonings for foods. They were also used for curing illnesses, storing with linens, strewing on floors, covering the bad taste of meats before refrigeration was devised, dyeing homespun fabrics and as fragrances.

With the advent of the supermarket, growing herbs in the garden declined because a wide range of dried herbs became available in stores. Now, however, with an increase in the popularity of ethnic foods, combined with a realization that fresh herbs have more distinctive tastes than some dried herbs, more gardeners are growing at least a few herbs for fresh use, drying or freezing.

General Culture

Light. Most herbs are easy to grow, but you must select the proper location to grow them. Most herbs need a sunny location, and only a few, including angelica, woodruff and sweet cicely, are better grown in partial shade. The oils, which account for the herbs’ flavor, are produced in the greatest quantity when plants receive six to eight hours of full sunlight each day. If you don’t have a good, sunny location, many herbs will tolerate light shade, but their growth and quality will not be as good.

Soil. Herbs will grow in any good garden soil. The soil should not be extremely acid or alkaline; a soil nearly neutral is best for most herbs. A pH reading between 6.5 and 7.0 produces the best herbs.

Most herbs do not require a highly fertile soil. Highly fertile soils tend to produce excessive foliage that is poor in flavor. Herbs grow best when soils have adequate organic matter.

In preparing average soils, incorporate 4 inches of peat moss or compost into the garden area to improve soil condition and help retain moisture.

Drainage. When selecting a site for an herb garden, you must consider drainage. None of the important herbs grow in wet soils, but a few, such as mint, angelica and lovage, thrive in fairly moist soils. If the only area available is poorly drained, you need to modify the area. Build raised beds or install underground drainage tiles to grow herbs successfully.

Preparation. Once you select a site, cultivate the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches, then level it. If only a shallow layer of topsoil exists above hard subsoil, remove the topsoil temporarily. Break up the subsoil, adding organic matter. After improving the subsoil, put it back. Even though the topsoil may be better than the subsoil, the topsoil may also need additional organic matter.

Pests. Few insects or diseases attack herbs. In some localities, rusts infect mints. In hot, dry weather, spider mites damage some herbs.

Aphids attack anise, caraway, dill and fennel. Grasshoppers and certain caterpillars attack herbs when conditions are right. Control is usually not necessary until you notice a problem.

Propagation: seeds. You can grow many herbs from seeds. If possible, sow the seeds in pots or flats indoors in late winter. They need a sunny window and cool temperatures (60 degrees F) for best growth. Treat young plants for the garden just as you would treat young salvia or pepper plants.

Because some plants take longer than others to develop, start those with smaller seeds first, preferably in February. You may later transplant them into individual pots and plant them in the garden after danger of frost is past. The finer the seeds, the shallower you should sow them. For directions on starting seeds indoors, see MU publication G 6570, Starting Plants From Seeds.

A few herbs do not transplant well. Sow them directly into the garden. Plant anise, coriander, dill and fennel directly in the garden and don’t transplant them.

For direct seeding outdoors, plant in spring after all danger of frost is past and the soil is beginning to warm up. Make the soil into a fine, level seed bed. As a general rule, sow seeds at a depth of twice their diameter.

Propagation: cutting, division, layering. Some established herbs are multiplied asexually by cutting, division or layering.

Layering is suitable for many perennials with flexible branches. Division works well for tarragon, chives and mint. You can propagate lavender, lemon balm, scented geraniums, sage and rosemary from cuttings. Information about taking cuttings and rooting them is available in MU publications G 6560, Home Propagation of House Plants, and G 6970, Home Propagation of Garden and Landscape Plants.

You can take cuttings of herbs any time during late spring and summer from healthy, well-established plants. Those taken in fall take longer to root. Healthy tip growth makes the best cuttings. Cuttings of vigorous soft shoots or old woody stems are less desirable.

Cut just below a node to form a cutting that is 3 to 5 inches long. Most herbs should root in two to four weeks. After rooting, overwinter them indoors in pots on a sunny window or in a coldframe. Plant them outdoors in a permanent location the following spring.

Division is useful for multiplying healthy, established plants that may be two to four years old. Division allows modest increase for plants like chives, mints and French tarragon. Divide herbs in early spring before growth begins. Dig up the old plant and cut or pull it apart into sections. Replant the sections and keep them moist until the new plants are established.

Layering is the simplest and most reliable method to increase perennial herbs such as thyme, lemon balm, winter savory, sage, bay and rosemary. The basic principle is to produce roots on a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant. After you root the stem, detach the new plant from the parent. Select a healthy branch that is growing close to the ground and that is flexible enough to bend down to the soil.

While holding the branch close to the soil, bend the top 6 to 10 inches of the stem into a vertical position. It may be helpful to scrape the bark on the underside of the branch at the bend. Bury the bent, scraped portion 3 to 6 inches deep, and anchor it with a wire loop. Insert a small stake to hold the top upright. Water thoroughly.

You can layer anytime from spring to late summer. Allow the rooted shoot to remain in place until the following spring. Then cut it from the parent plant and plant it into the desired location.

Winter protection. Many herbs suffer winter damage in our climate, so some winter protection for perennial herbs is advisable. Many herbs have shallow roots that heave out during spring thawing and freezing of soil. A loose mulch spread over the roots about 4 inches deep can provide adequate protection. Evergreen boughs, straw or oak leaves are good materials for a mulch. Don’t mulch until after the ground is frozen in early winter. Do not remove mulch until you see signs of new growth in the early spring. If the mulch compacts during the winter from heavy snows, fluff it up in early spring before growth begins.

Garden Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 23:33:00 +0000

Known as common garden chives, Allium schoenoprasum, can be grown indoors and outdoors. Chives are rich in vitamins A and C, potassium, and calcium. They are grown for the flavor of their leaves, which is reminiscent of onion, although much milder. Both the stems and light purple flowers are used in cooking and the snipped leaves are an addition to many dishes. Chives lose their flavor with long cooking so it is best to add them to dishes at the last minute. For chopping stems, a pair of scissors is the best tool.

Chives can be frozen or dried. They are less flavourful when dried rather that frozen, so they are best used when fresh and snipped, or snipped and frozen. In both cases sort them carefully, removing any yellowing leaves and shoots, and keep only the plump green ones. It is possible to place chives in non-iodized salt, keep them there for several weeks, remove the leaves, and then bottle the ‘chive salt’ for use in flavouring.

Chives are a perennial in the garden and grow approximately 12 inches (30 cm) tall. They are extremely easy to grow, are drought tolerant, rarely suffer from disease or pest problems, and don’t require fertilizer. Cultivation requirements for growing chives: full sun, will tolerate light shade; grow best in well-drained, organic, fertile soil; keep soil moist – use mulch, and water during periods of drought. Chives tend to get overcrowded so dig and divide every three to four years.

Chives are easily grown from seed or can be brought indoors at the end of the growing season. If you are bringing chives indoors, divide a clump, and pot up in good houseplant soil. Leave your chive plant outdoors for a month or so after the first frost to provide a short period of dormancy. Bring them indoors and provide the requirements needed for them to start growing again. To harvest, snip leaves 2 inches (5cm) from the base of the plant. Cut flower stalks off at the soil line once they have finished blooming. This prevents the plant form forming seed and keeps it more productive.

Chives require at least five to eight hours of sunlight a day. Grow them on a southern or eastern exposure to the light. If you are growing them on a windowsill, turn regularly to ensure every side receives light. If you are unable to provide this amount of light, they also grow well under fluorescent lights. Hang lights 6 inches above the plants and leave lights on for 14 hours per day.

In the garden, plant chives with carrots. They are good companion plantings for tomatoes and fruit trees. Chives or garlic planted between rows of peas or lettuce control pashas and are reported to control the incidence of aphids when planted between roses. In the kitchen, use chives in omelets, scrambled eggs, casseroles, rice, dips, gravies, butter, meat, and seafood. Chives can be added to soft cheese, salads, sandwiches, sour cream, vinegar, and bake potatoes. Chive blossoms can be used for garnishing and are particularly attractive in salads. Chive stems can be used for tying up little bundles of vegetables for appetizers.

Winter Gardening Tree Pruning Tips

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:58:00 +0000

There are two kinds of winter gardening. The first method usually starts in January as the gardening catalogs begin to arrive in the mail. This type of gardening is as easy as sitting in your favorite chair, browsing the catalogs, and either dreaming about what you're going to do this spring, or actually drawing designs for the gardens you intend to work on.

The second type of winter gardening is to actually get out in the yard and do a little work. Of course if it's bitter cold, you'd be better off waiting for a good day. Winter is a good time to do some pruning if the temperatures are around 30 degrees or so. I don't recommend pruning if it's considerably below freezing because the wood is brittle and will shatter when you make a cut.

One of the advantages of pruning during the winter is that you can see much better what needs to be cut out and what should stay. At least that's true with deciduous plants. The other advantage is that the plants are dormant, and won't mind you doing a little work on them.

Ornamental trees should pruned to remove competing branches. Weeping Cherries, Flowering Dogwoods, Flowering Crabapples etc. have a tendency to send branches in many different directions. It is your job to decide how you want the plant to look, and then start pruning to achieve that look.

But first stick your head inside the tree and see what you can eliminate from there. This is like looking under the hood, and when you do you'll see a lot of small branches that have been starved of sunlight, that certainly don't add anything to the plant. They are just there, and should be cut out.

Any branch that is growing toward the center of the tree where it will get little sunlight should be cut out. Where there are two branches that are crossing, one of them should be eliminated. Once you get the inside of the plant cleaned up, you can start shaping the outside.

Shaping the outside is actually quite easy. Just picture how you want the plant to look, and picture imaginary lines of the finished outline of the plant. Cut off anything that is outside of these imaginary lines. It is also important to cut the tips of branches that have not yet reached these imaginary lines in order to force the plant to fill out.

For the most part plants have two kinds of growth: Terminal branches and lateral branches. Each branch has one terminal bud at the very end, and many lateral branches along the sides. The terminal buds grow in an outward direction away from the plant. Left uncut they just keep growing in the same direction, and the plant grows tall and very thin. That's why the trees in the woods are so thin and not very attractive.

When you cut a branch on a plant, the plant sets new buds just below where you cut. When you remove the terminal bud the plant will set multiple buds; this is how you make a plant nice and full. Don't be afraid to trim your plants, they will be much nicer because of it. The more you trim them, the fuller they become.

Lots of people have a real problem with this. They just can't bring themselves to prune. Especially when it comes to plants like Japanese Red Maples. It kills them to even think about pruning a plant like this. Just do it! You'll have a beautiful plant because of it.

Look at the plant objectively. If you see a branch that looks like it's growing too far in the wrong direction, cut it. If you make a mistake it will grow back. Not pruning is the only mistake you can make. I hope this helps and doesn't get you in trouble with your significant other. Many a family feud has started over pruning.

Lawn Mower Safety Tips

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:37:00 +0000

Many parents know it's important to tend to more than their yards when they do yard work. Still, thousands of children are injured in yard-work-related injuries every year. It only takes a moment for a child to dart into the path of a lawn mower. Myranda got her foot trapped underneath the blade of her father's riding lawn mower when she was 2 years old. Spence lost part of his foot when he tripped in front of a riding lawn mower when he was 3. Both Myranda and Spence had to have a foot amputated and now use prostheses.

Myranda and Spence are among the many children Shriners Hospitals for Children treats each year who have lost fingers, toes and limbs as a result of power lawn mower accidents.

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), more than 84,000 injuries result from lawn mower accidents each year, and 8,800 of those injuries are to children under the age of 18. One out of every five lawn mower deaths involves a child.

According to a report published in the Annals of Emergency Medicine Web site, children between the ages of 15 and 19 have the highest rate of hospitalizations caused by lawn mower accidents, and the second-most-common result of these hospitalizations is toe amputation.

To prevent lawn mower injuries, follow these safety tips from Shriners Hospitals for Children and the CPSC:

• Do not allow passengers on a riding mower.

• Keep children out of the yard and indoors while mowing the lawn.

• Do not allow children under the age of 14 to operate a lawn mower.

• Always prepare your lawn for mowing. Check your lawn for items such as sticks, rocks, toys, etc. Make sure nothing is hidden in the grass.

• Handle fuel with care. Wipe up spills. Never fill the tank on a mower that is hot. Never smoke or use any kind of flame around gasoline.

• Wear appropriate clothing and shoes, including long pants, long-sleeved shirts, eye protection, heavy gloves, and sturdy, close-toed shoes with slip-resistant rubber soles.

• Check guards and shields. Read the owner's manual and know how to operate the equipment. Don't remove or disable guards or other safety devices.

• Always use a mower with an automatic blade cutoff. Stay behind the handle until the blade stops.

• Never reach under a mower while it is still operating. If you need to remove debris or check the blade, disconnect the wire from the spark plug.

• Don't cut grass when it's wet.

• On slopes, mow up and down rather than across the slope.

Using Plants to Repel Mosquitoes

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 10:47:00 +0000

If you are a serious gardener, you spend lots of time outdoors. And, for sure, you would rather be tending your plants than swatting mosquitoes. While there are many things you can do to keep mosquitoes away, there are some plants that will beautify your yard and help repel mosquitoes.

Melanie Marten compiled an article with a series of plants that will help you keep the mosquitoes away. Read Melany advice words:

Citronella Grass
Citronella grass is, of course, where companies get the citronella oil. This oil is put in candles and lanterns that can be burned in your yard to repel mosquitoes. Citronella grass is actually a tropic plant that grows to be six feet tall, so it might not be practical in the average suburban backyard.

Catnip
Catnip is an herb that is most commonly used to stuff in toys or feed to cats for their enjoyment. However, the oil from this plant has actually been found to be more than ten times better at repelling mosquitoes than DEET. Planting this plant near your patio or deck will help repel mosquitoes.

Rosemary
This garden herb also has an oil that repels mosquitoes. While they are attractive plants that both repel mosquitoes and can add interest to your cooking, they are truly tropical plants that are not hardy in cold climates. You can, however, grow rosemary in a pot and take it inside in the winter.

Marigolds
Marigolds have a particular smell that many insects and humans find objectionable. They are a good plant for repelling mosquitoes as well as insects that can attack vegetable plants and aphids. Marigolds are annuals with bright flowers that range from lemon yellow to dark oranges and reds.

Thank you for this wonderful sugestions Melany. So, next time you are revising your plantings, consider using some of these attractive plants to do more than just enhance the landscape. You can have pretty ornamentals that also drive mosquitoes away.

Sources: Gosmetic

Most Beautiful Garden in the World

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 09:20:00 +0000

This could be the most beautiful garden in the world. Located at Beijing, China, this beautiful garden with a landscaping masterpiece, was the official garden of the Olympic Games in 2008. The garden still exists, and is one of the most beautiful gardens in the world.

Look at the photos, and see the beauty:

Source: My Secret Garden

In Bloom Photos

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 09:01:00 +0000

National Geographic release a couple of photos and wallpapers for our computers. The photos are very beautiful and show us many flowers in bloom. National Geographic words:

"A scarlet banksia blooms like fireworks in Australia's southwest. Not all biodiversity hot spots are tropical. This region's poor soils support 2,830 endemic plants—species that grow nowhere else on Earth."

And now without further delays, the beautiful photos:

Source: National Geographic

Harvesting Herbs

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:41:00 +0000

Depending on the herb, harvest may include one or more plant parts. In most cases you harvest the leaves, but in some cases you pick flowers, seeds or roots. Handle blossoms just as you would handle leaves. Often, you harvest blossoms with the leaves and mix them together. Dried herbs lose quality in two to three years. Discard them if you haven’t used them in that time.

Harvest time — leaves. To determine the best harvest time for each herb, you need some experience. However, a few general rules can lead you in the right direction for most herbs. Harvest the leaves when they contain the optimum amount of essential oils. These oils give herbs their special flavor or scent.

Ideally you should cut herbs soon after the dew has evaporated from the leaves in the morning. Harvest on a dry day that has been preceded by at least two sunny days.

In most cases, cut stems for harvest when the flower buds are just beginning to open. Mints, however, have the most oil in the leaves when the spikes are in full bloom.

When gathering a large quantity of herbs, use an open-weave basket or containers that allow good air movement. Don’t stuff herbs into plastic bags, which can heat up and cause rapid deterioration of herbs. Never cut more stems than you can conveniently dry at one time. You can cut back a perennial herb to about half its height and can cut down an annual to a few inches. You can also remove an annual completely near the end of the season.

Wash the plants in cool water immediately after gathering and spread them on towels. Pat them gently with a towel until dry. A dark, well-ventilated room where temperatures run between 70 and 90 degrees F is an excellent room for drying. Air conditioning is helpful, because it reduces humidity in the air. You can use frames covered with cheesecloth or other netting, or metal window screens with cheesecloth laid on top for drying. Prepare the frames or screens before you cut the plants.

For some herbs, you strip the leaves from the stems before drying. Herbs in this group include basil, dill, lemon balm, lovage, mint, sage, lemon verbena and tarragon. Spread these leaves in single layers for quickest drying.

Herbs with smaller leaves can be dried on the stems. These herbs include thyme, summer and winter savory, rosemary, oregano and marjoram. Strip the leaves after drying is complete.

Herb leaves should dry in three to four days under proper conditions. In humid weather, you may need to spread the herbs on a cookie sheet and dry them in an oven at about 125 degrees F for a few minutes before placing them in an airtight container.

Some herbs do not dry well at home. Instead, you can freeze them. Handle them as you would for drying. Then after washing, blanch them in boiling, unsalted water for 50 seconds, cool quickly in ice water and blot dry. Spread them in a single layer on paper or cookie sheets and place them in the freezer.

You can freeze dill, chives and basil without blanching. After the herbs are frozen, place them in airtight plastic containers or bags.

Harvest time — roots. Angelica and lovage produce usable roots. Dig these roots in the late fall or early spring. Wash them thoroughly after digging. Then slice or split the large roots. Place the pieces in thin layers on screens and turn the slices several times a week. After they are partially dry, finish them in an oven at low heat before placing them in an airtight container for storage. It may take roots six to eight weeks to dry completely. When dry, the root piece should snap when you bend it.

Harvest time — seeds. You can grow and process seeds of dill, caraway, fennel and anise at home. When the plants begin to mature and yellow, cut the heads of the plants containing the seeds, leaving a short stem. Place them on a drying tray for five or six days. Then the seeds should fall fairly easily from the heads. Remove the chaff, and allow the seeds to continue to dry for another week. Stir them frequently. Store seeds in airtight jars after complete drying.

Home Composting for Beginners

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:22:00 +0000

Composting your kitchen and garden waste is a great way to reduce the amount of waste you dispose of in your rubbish bin. By composting your waste you can generate a free source of rich compost to help improve your garden, and also help to reduce global warming in the process.

How does home composting help to reduce global warming?

When sent to landfill organic waste is compressed under tonnes and tonnes of other waste types. The organic waste therefore does not have enough access to air, which restricts the waste from being able to decompose properly. Instead of decomposing, methane gas is produced which contributes to global warming.

The Compost Bin

The first step to start composting at home is to get a compost bin. You can either purchase a compost bin or you can make your own. Compost bins can be bought from the majority of garden centres. The government funded Recycle Now Home Composting Campaign also sells discounted compost bins.

The next important step is to decide where to position the compost bin, which can affect the overall quality of the compost that is produced. For best results place the bin in a well drained area which has good access to sunlight. The drainage will enable excess water to drain out of the compost and placing the bin in a sunny spot helps to speed up the composting process.

What waste items can I put in my compost bin?

There are lots of everyday waste items from your garden and kitchen that can go into your compost bin. These are broken down into ?Greens? and ?Browns?. Greens are the type of items that provide moisture and nitrogen and are quick to rot. Items classed as Greens includes:

Grass cuttings
Vegetable peelings
Leaves
Fruit
Tea bags
Weeds

Browns are waste items that take longer to rot but provide pockets of air, along with fibre and carbon. This includes items such as:

Cardboard boxes
Newspapers (scrunched up)
Toilet roll tubes
Egg shells (crushed)
Shredded paper
Twigs and hedge clippings

How do I make a good quality compost?

To make a good quality compost it is important to use a good mix of both 'green' and 'brown' wastes. It is simply a case of monitoring the compost and adding more waste depending on the look of the compost. For example, if it looks too dry add more ?green? waste, and if it looks too wet add more ?brown? waste. Every so often it is also a good idea to mix or turn the contents of your compost bin to add air.

How long will it take for my compost to be ready to use?

This will vary depending on the mixture of waste that is placed into the compost bin, the surrounding conditions and the weather. In general it should take between 6 and 9 months for your finished compost to be ready to use.

Gardening Frequently Asked Questions

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 10:40:00 +0000

This little article is a session of Questions and Answers on Gardening that we conduct on a Saturday night chat.

Question #1
How to Test Soil For Magnesium Level
This question is in response to last month's emailed gardening tip. You mentioned to make sure to do a soil test to see what your magnesium level is before adding any Epsom salt to outdoor plants. You said, "Without knowing your current magnesium levels, you shouldn't apply Epsom salt at all to outdoor plants. Many areas have almost toxic proportions of magnesium present in the soil, and continually adding more will end up poisoning the plants and the soil." That's great, but how do I test for Magnesium levels?

ANSWER:
Hi Jim! Great question. Since most home "do-it-yourself" soil testing kits only test for pH, Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorous, in order to find out your calcium and magnesium levels you'll have to take a sample to a local soil testing lab. Every county has one, and the cost is usually around $10 (£5). It's fast and very accurate.

Question #2:
Out Of Control Weeds
We have recently moved into our house, and the gardens are full of weeds. We have tried pulling them out, we have tried both chemical and organic weed killers, and tried solarization. Is there any other way. We just can't seem to contain them.

ANSWER:
Hi Brad! I can hear and understand your frustration. Nothing is worse than a battle of the weeds. Unfortunately, the best advice I can give you is diligence, and try mixing up your techniques a bit more.

The problem with a lot of chemical weed killers is they do a great job of killing what's there, but if you simply leave that area bare, and don't do anything else, new weed and grass seeds can blow in and take root in the now clean and open area.

You also have to realize there are perennial and annual weeds, which means that at any time of the year, some kind of weed will be growing. The trick is to keep after it year-round and in a season or two, you will see a huge decrease in the problem as you kill each weed's growing cycle and start to get the upper hand.

So what I would suggest is to pick a general weed killing method, I like solarization because it's chemical free, but many people opt for RoundUp or another systemic weed killer.

Once you have killed everything back, come back in and put down some corn gluten.

Corn gluten is great because it will keep any new seeds from germinating. Keep in mind, it will keep all seeds from germinating, so if you are planning on starting a vegetable garden from seed, this will be a problem.

If that is the case, and you can't put down a pre-emergent, put down a good layer of mulch, 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) to keep any new weeds smothered.

Hang in there, you have the right idea, and in time, your garden is going to look great.

Question #3:
What Is Heavy Soil

I want to start a water garden. I went and bought a Papyrus plant. I was told to repot plant and to use "heavy soil" and water plant fertilizer. Can you tell me what "heavy soil" is? And what type of fertilizer to use that can be used with fish in pond?

Ramona Diorec, Honolulu, HI, USA

ANSWER:
Hi Ramona! Good question. Soils come in various "textures" meaning there sandy, loam, and clay soils, which some people can refer to as light, medium, and heavy soils.

Heavy soils (the same as a clay soil) are called that because they contain more clay, are sticky, and have little pore space, drain slowly and retain water and nutrients longer, which tend to make them more fertile than other soils, and are ideal for pond plants.

A medium soil (the same as a loam soil) which is considered the ideal garden soil (not for pond plants, but general gardening), because it has a nice balance of 3 particle types, clay, silt, and sand, giving it a combination of large and small pore spaces allowing it to have air for healthy root growth, and to drain well and lose nutrients at only a moderate rate.

Lastly, a light soil (the same as a sandy soil) contains particles that are fairly large and irregular, and have large pore spaces between the particles giving the soil lots of air, which drains very quickly losing nutrients and water. That's why plants in sand need watering and feeding more often.

In your situation, you will want to use a heavy clay soil, and there are such soils packaged specifically for aquatic plants, so ask for that. In a pond situation, using the wrong type of soil can cause numerous problems, so start your plants out correctly with the right soil.

Now, just a few extra tips for you. One of the problems with ponds is that they can get a brown tinge to the water. This is because the soil has come out of the pot, which can happen in a high wind when the pot blows or falls over spilling soil into the water, or the soil washes out of the bottom of the pot. To avoid this problem here are a couple of things you can do:

1. Use a shorter wider pot (sometimes called a "pan") because it is less likely to blow over than a taller pot, especially if it is a taller growing plant (like some Papyrus); and make sure that you add some medium sized stones on top of the soil to keep the soil in the pot. The stones will also add extra weight which will keep the pot from tipping over in the pond in the wind.

2. Line the pot with burlap, weed barrier mat or a few layers of damp newspaper. After the bottom of the pot is lined then add your soil and plant. This helps keep the soil from washing out the drainage holes into the pond. Once the plant is potted up, soak the entire pot in a bucket that is large enough to cover the top of the pot for about 24 hours. This will allow any loose soil to be washed off into the bucket of water and not in your pond.

3. When you are putting the plant in the pond make sure that you slowly lower the pot into the water rather than just plunge the pot into the water. By lowering the pot slowly this will keep the force of the water from washing the soil out of the pot and into the water.

The final part of your question was about fertilizer. There are many made especially for ponds, just ask for fertilizer for Pond Plants. It will be safe for all aquatic life, and it won't turn water green from algae growth.

Question #4:
Leafminers on Tomatoes

I have 5 pots of "patio" tomotoes growing in large pots on my balcony. All 5 plants have tan "schrigely" marks on them, as you can see in the picture. Not all leaves have these marks. Also, the newest growth leaves on top of plants do not have these marks (yet??). Any suggestions as to the problem? Thanks.

ANSWER:
Hi Bob! First of all, thank you for sending a picture with your question. It always is so helpful to be able to see exactly what you are talking about.

What you have are called Leafminers. They like to feed on bean, beet, cabbage, chard, lettuce, pepper, tomato, and other vegetables; also many ornamentals, especially chrysanthemum and nasturtium.

The larvae tunnel through the leaf tissue making hollowed-out, winding mines. They can kill seedlings, but the good news is that on older plants, such as your tomatoes, the larvae are more of a nuisance, and a cosmetic issue, than a serious problem.

There are a few things you can do:

1. Handpick and destroy mined leaves.

2. Remove any egg clusters you may see on the undersides of the leafs as soon as they are visible in the spring.

3. You can also spray neem oil. Read more about neem oil.

Garden Fountains in Your Backyard

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 10:33:00 +0000

Garden fountains come in a huge variety of decorative styles, from ornately carved wall fountains to floating pond fountains. If you're looking for a way to bring a soothing ambiance to the sanctuary of your backyard or patio, then a water fountain can be a wonderful feature. The sight and sound of flowing water can have a lovely soothing effect, helping to wash away the stresses and strains of daily life. An outdoor fountain can become a stunning focal point of your garden design. The gentle trickling sound can help drown out the sound of the city and create a peaceful and inspiring environment.

Outdoor water fountains run on either an electric pump or solar power. They come in a range of sizes and styles, to suit all kinds of garden themes. Tiered cascades, birdbaths, wall mounted and traditional pedestal designs are some of the many options available. Designs based on mythical figures, animals and cherubs are popular, as are more contemporary designs. Having a pond fountain not only adds to the atmosphere of relaxation and calm, but also helps keep the water circulating and prevents it from becoming stagnant.

Patio fountains and waterfalls are sought after by many people looking to reduce stress levels and wishing to create an oasis of calm in their own backyard. Water fountains have been features of gardens throughout history in many cultures, and the soothing effects of flowing water have long been recognized. For instance, according to the principles of Feng Shui, moving water in certain areas of a garden can help activate beneficial chi energy.

If you're looking to transform your garden or patio into a relaxing retreat, then a water fountain could be just what you need to add that touch of serenity and calm.

How to Grow your Own Herbs

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 16:59:00 +0000

If you're not the type of person that wants to spend their time managing an elaborate fruit or vegetable garden, you might consider planting and maintaining an herb garden. While the product might not seem as significant, you'll still enjoy the constant availability of fresh, delicious herbs to flavor your meals with.

First you'll want to choose the herbs that you'll plant. You might have a hard time doing this because of the huge scope of herbs available. But the best way to choose is to do what I did; just look at what you have in your kitchen. By planting your own collection of these herbs, you can save money on buying them from the grocery store while having the added benefit of freshness. Some of the herbs you might start with include rosemary, sage, basil, dill, mint, chives, and parsley among others.

When choosing an area to put your herb garden, you should remember that the soil should have extremely good drainage. If the dirt gets watered and stays completely saturated, you have no chance of ever growing a healthy plant. One of the best ways to fix the drainage problem is to dig a foot deep in the soil, and put a layer of crushed rocks down before replacing all the soil. This will allow all that water to escape, thus saving your plants.

When you are ready to begin planting herbs, you might be tempted to buy the more expensive plants from the store. However, with herbs it is much easier to grow them from seed than it is with other plants. Therefore you can save a bundle of money by sticking with seed packets. Some herbs grow at a dangerously fast rate. For example, if you plant a mint plant in an open space then it will take over your entire garden in a matter of days. The best way to prevent this problem is to plant the more aggressive plants in pots (with holes in the bottom to allow drainage, of course).

When it comes time to harvest the herbs you have labored so hard over, it can be fatal to your plant to take off too much. If your plant isn't well established, it isn't healthy to take any leaves at all, even if it looks like its not using them. You should wait until your plant has been well established for at least several months before taking off any leaves. This wait will definitely be worth it, because by growing unabated your plant will produce healthily for years to come.

Once you've harvested your delicious home grown herbs, you'll want to use them in cooking. Why else would you have grown them? Well first the process begins with drying them out. This is easily achieved by placing them on a cookie sheet and baking them 170 degrees Fahrenheit for 2 to 4 hours. After they're sufficiently dried to be used in cooking, you can consult the nearest cookbook for instructions on using them to effectively flavor a dish.

If you want to store your herbs for later usage, you should keep them in a plastic or glass container. Paper or cardboard will not work, because it will absorb the taste of the herbs. During the first few days of storage, you should regularly check the container and see if any moisture has accumulated. If it has, you must remove all the herbs and re-dry them. If moisture is left from the first drying process, it will encourage mildew while you store your herbs. Nobody likes mildew.

If you enjoy herbs or gardening, or both, then you should probably consider setting up an herb garden. It might require a little bit of work at first to set it up for optimal drainage, and pick what herbs you want to grow. But after the initial hassle, it's just a matter of harvesting and drying all your favorite herbs.

Garden Soil Preparation for Backyard Gardeners

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 15:47:00 +0000

Planting a backyard garden can be a fun and rewarding experience if you approach the planning and preparations aspect of gardening in the right way – but a lack of planning and preparation can cause your hard work in the hot summer months to yield mediocre results (if any) at the end of the growing season.

Perhaps somewhere in the world, the key to successful gardening is simply dropping a handful of seeds into the ground and watching them spring up. But most garden soils require careful attention and preparation.

Choosing a Plot
A common mistake among beginning and experienced gardeners alike is to plant more than they can possibly care for. A successful vegetable garden plot does not need to be big. A small, well-tended garden will grow as much or more produce than a larger one that the owner cannot keep up with.

Backyard gardeners should choose a sunny spot where water is readily available. Most vegetables do best in full sun if possible, but at a minimum, your garden should get at least 6 hours of sun a day.

Try to select a spot with good, rich soil. Good garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well drained, rich in organic material and has a neutral pH. The ideal garden soil composition is about 5% organic matter, 25% air, 25% water, and 45% mineral matter. If you are planting a garden in a desert area with naturally not fertile soil, plan on working to improve the soil that is there.

Prepare your soil
Although organic material is only 5% of the “ideal formula” for good growing soil, applying the right organic matter to your soil can make worlds of difference.

Nearly all soils, whether clay, sandy or humus, benefit from the addition of organic matter. Spread a layer of organic matter two to three inches thick over the soil surface and incorporate it six to eight inches deep. Organic matter breaks up clay allowing for air and water circulation, and helps hold water in sandy soils. Good sources of organic matter include straw, twigs, leaves, peat moss, sawdust, grass clippings and well-rotted manure.

Organic matter will tie up nitrogen as it decays. Add nitrogen fertilizer to the organic matter to aid in the decomposition process. This addition of nitrogen is not intended to aid future plant growth, but to act as a facilitator to help in decomposition. More nitrogen fertilizer will be required when you begin planting. You’ll want to use one pound of ammonium sulfate, or 2/3 pound of ammonium nitrate, or ½ pound of urea for each inch of organic matter placed on one hundred square feet of soil. As a word of caution, if you are using well-rotted manure for organic matter, reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you apply by one half.

Tilling
Finally, before you are ready to plant, the soil should be tilled thoroughly. Tilling breaks up hard soil and allows air to circulate around the roots of your plants. Us a tiller, shovel or fork to churn the soil at least eight inches deep. Do not try to till your soil too early in the spring before the soil has had a chance to dry out a bit. Tilling muddy soil only causes mud clods that choke tender roots of needed air and water.

Once your soil is ready, consult your local extension or the back of your seed packets for the proper time to plant your garden fruits and vegetables.

By following these simple preparatory steps before you plant, you will increase your chances of having a bountiful harvest at the end of the growing season. Good luck and happy gardening!

Perfect Flowers for Summer

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 10:37:00 +0000

Summer flowers and bedding plants are a great way to instantly add color to your lawn. Summer flowers start appearing in garden centers in the early spring, but you should be careful to plant only after the danger of freezing weather has passed. Summer flowers produce the best results when purchased ready to plant rather than trying to grow them yourself from seeds. Selecting the right summer flowers for your area can be quite a task, especially if you are planting your first flower garden. Here are some suggestions as to which flowering plants may be right for your situation:

If your flowerbed is in direct sunlight for the majority of the day, you will want to choose a hardy, heat-resistant plant. Some of the better choices for full sun are marigolds, zinnias, petunias, and zinnia. Be careful to choose a variety of heat-resistant plants, as some of these full-sun varieties are prone to diseases, especially marigolds. You will want several types of flowers in your flowerbed not only for contrast and interest, but in the event that one variety does poorly or becomes diseased, you can simply pull the plants (roots and all) and cultivate your remaining varieties. Keep in mind that if any of your plants are diseased, you should pull them immediately to avoid spreading the disease to your other plants.

For areas that are in partial to full shade, consider impatiens, begonias, and vinca. All of these come in a variety of colors and grow quite well in shady areas. In choosing the colors for your flowering plants, remember that red colors make the plant seem closer and larger, while blue will give the illusion of smallness and distance. Planting a single color of flowers will draw more attention to your flowerbed, but if you want several colors make sure the flowers compliment one another. Purple goes well with pink and white will blend in nicely with any other color. Also, red goes very well with violet as odd as this may seem.

The most important thing you can do to ensure beautiful summer flowers is to prepare your flowerbed appropriately before planting. Till the soil thoroughly and remove any weeds, roots and all. Fertilize your flowerbed before planting and for the first month after planting flowers, water every other day so that the roots of the plants will be properly nourished. Use mulch as a covering in your flowerbed to preserve moisture and do not over-feed your flowers. Use fertilizer exactly as directed on the package and avoid getting the fertilizer directly on the parts of the plant that are above the ground.

Bonsai Soil & Bonsai Additives

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 10:29:00 +0000

Should I use a special Bonsai soil or just normal soil? The increased popularity of growing Bonsai trees and plants has brought with it many more specialist shops; the Internet being virtually awash with Bonsai supplies. As a beginner, it is usual for people to go out and buy everything they think they could possibly want to ever grow a Bonsai. However, there is a good chance you may not need it. You can buy Bonsai soil at very reasonable prices now, and this soil is mixed to a perfect combination of nutrients, soil and grit that will help your Bonsai grow, but many practitioners of the ancient art of Bonsai would probably consider this cheating.

As a beginner, it is important that you do what you can to make your first Bonsai as successful as possible. Many people will throw in the towel after just one failure, and when you consider how long a Bonsai can take to reach maturity this really isn’t an overnight hobby. You must get into a regime of regular watering, annual potting and plenty of care and attention in order to be able to enjoy a beautiful Bonsai for your troubles.

Is Bonsai soil expensive?

Bonsai soil shouldn’t be costing you very much more than normal potting compost or bags of nutrient rich soil that you use in your garden. A good Bonsai soil, however, may contain a long list of ingredients including clay, soil and even bark. Some of these ingredients are loaded with the nutrients that your Bonsai will thrive on, and paying that little extra can certainly promote good healthy growth from your beloved project.

Whether you decide you want to use bags of Bonsai soil or make your own soil there are certain things you need to make sure of before planting your Bonsai in the soil. A good Bonsai soil needs to have excellent drainage to make sure the water can seep to the roots and out of the bottom of the soil and through the holes in your pot. It is a good idea to have two different soils, one coarser than the other. This way, the screened soil acts as a sort of irrigation for your plants.

As well as this, you may want to consider buying nutrient supplements that you can add when repotting or mix with the soil that you use. However, if you are growing your Bonsai in a suitable area this isn’t always needed.

How To Choose The Right Roses

noreply@blogger.com (Janne Quitas) — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:59:00 +0000

There are an extremely large number of rose varieties available at this time, most of these varieties are suitable to raise in your home garden. With so many different types to choose from deciding which roses to grow can seem more like a difficult task than a part of the fun of growing roses. By keeping just a few important factors in mind you can simplify this task and put the fun back into selecting your roses.

Color
How will a particular color of rose look in your garden, be sure to look at other peoples gardens and in magazines to see how different color arrangements work together. For some people the color of the roses will not be a very important consideration for others it will be one of the most important. Either way you will need to be sure that the color will complement the other colors in your garden and not clash with what you already have in place.

Size
Size will also be an important factor, how will the roses look in your garden once they have grown to their full height. Can your garden aesthetically support twenty-foot roses or will you need to stick with a species that only grows to about eight feet high. You will need to measure your garden before you start looking for roses. You will need to know the width and height of your garden to aid in selecting the proper roses. Your roses will need adequate room to grow and will need enough exposure to sunlight and air to thrive. If you have limited space you might want to consider growing miniature roses instead. Miniature roses require much less space and our easy to care for and maintain.

Climate
While characteristics that deal with the visual appeal of roses like the height and color are important the most important considerations are the ones that deal with how well the roses will be able to thrive. The climate that the rose needs for proper growth is one of these, if the climate the rose needs does not match with your local climate these roses will never grow very well. For example if you live in an area that has long cold winters you will need to select varieties of roses that can tolerate cold weather.

Maintenance
How much time do you want to spend maintaining your roses? Do you live in your garden or are you a busy individual that only has small amounts of time to devote to their garden. Some roses require very high levels of maintenance, while these roses are quiet beautiful and would be a stunning addition to any garden you have to have the time and dedication to make them thrive. If you select a high maintenance rose and do not devote the necessary time to them you will be very disappointed with the results. There are roses on the market today known as "Modern Roses"; these are beautiful plants with a great fragrance and long lasting blooms. However they are also prone to disease and very high maintenance.

On the other hand you have "Old Garden Roses" these plants may not be quite as beautiful as the modern roses but they have been specially bred to be very disease prone and to only require minimal maintenance and care. They usually bloom for several months at a time and also have a very strong and pleasant scent. This strong scent can cause problems for people with allergies to fragrances. If that could be an issue for you should consider "shrub roses", these are also long blooming plants with a strong resistance to disease without the strong fragrance.

If this is your first time attempting to raise roses you might want to consider "landscape roses", they are very easy to care for and disease resistant. Landscape roses will add a great deal of beauty to any garden. If you have trellises around your home you might want to consider one of the varieties of climbing roses. These are very similar to landscape roses except that they grow upward like a vine.