Gingerbread Snowflakes - A blog about winter celebrations

Plastic Canvas Is Perfect For Fancy Needlepoint Stitch Samplers

Pam — Thu, 16 May 2013 00:51:56 +0000

Truth! When I decided to join in on the Plastic Canvas Blog Hop hosted by Diane over at Craftypod, I had never in my life made one single stitch on plastic canvas. Tons of needlepoint and Bargello stitching yes, but never plastic canvas.

BUT because Diane is my daughter and she loves playing with plastic canvas, and because she is hosting a Plastic Canvas Blog Hop - I decided to join in, play around with plastic canvas a little and see if I could figure out what she sees in it!

Too much fun! That's what she sees in it! I get it now!

I can't begin to tell you how satisfying these little 4"x4" coaster samplers were to stitch.

Having spent childhood hours …and hours …and hours making teeny tiny tent stitches over and over and over, I did not intend to repeat THAT experience. Instead, I turned to much more interesting needlepoint stitches.

And at first it was all about the stitches! I had no idea what I would do with the samplers! Although they could be stitched into a box to be hung on a tree or positioned on one corner as a sculpture or even used as a paper weight, I settled on using them as coasters. Diane sees their potential as stunning wall hangings!

To make stitch sampler coasters, you will need plastic canvas and stash yarn; a blunt needle with an eye large enough to hold the yarn but not so large it won't fit through the holes; and a pair of scissors and a ruler.
The plastic canvas I used - 7 holes per inch count size. This canvas is one of the largest available so some of the stitches have been adjusted to fit that size canvas. If you are planning to try these stitches using this tutorial, I suggest you use 7 hole per inch canvas. Some stitches (the Rice stitch for instance) have been modified for 7 hole canvas and will not work as described on canvas with 10 or more holes per inch.

Each coaster measures approximately 4" x 4". Cut your 7 holes per inch plastic canvas so that there are 25 holes in each direction. (26 holes is closer to an exact 4" but I found that by using 26 holes I always ended up with one row too many. (You no doubt have noticed my little filler rows on each coaster - learned that one the hard way.) Use 25 holes!

Most of the stash yarns used were worsted weight. Bulky weight can also be used with this canvas but for most stitches, I preferred using worsted yarn. All yarns used are acrylic fiber.

Because I am sharing 7 different stitches, I have opted to make this very image heavy and less "wordy" hoping to avoid making this any longer than necessary. I sincerely hope in so doing, I do not confuse anyone. Write me if you have a question!

Before sharing how to make all these pretty stitches, I thought a few basic tips for working these stitches on 7 holes per inch canvas would be helpful.

Although the frequently used basic tent stitch provides great coverage with worsted weight yarns, the straight stitch - which is worked vertically or horizontally - does not provide good coverage and parts of the canvas will be left exposed and quite visible.

You can see this problem quite clearly in the image above. Solution: use two strands of worsted yarn when making each stitch (salmon yarn) or use a bulky weight yarn (green).

If you are using worsted weight yarn, you might prefer to simply double the yarn and sew each stitch with the doubled yarn. However, I found that I liked the cleaner stitches resulting from sewing each stitch twice using one yarn.

The stitches on the left were created by using one yarn and stitching each stitch twice being careful to place the yarns so they lay next to each other.

The stitches on the right were made using a doubled yarn in the needle. As you can see, the yarns tend to overlap which results in a less distinct stitch.

Bury yarn ends into the back of the stitches as shown in this set of images. Especially at the beginning of a project, there are no previously made stitches where a yarn end can be secured, so I leave a 4" yarn tail, begin my stitching and then come back later, thread the tail into the needle and bury it as shown.

OR you can use Diane's MUCH BETTER technique - find it in this post!

Don't be afraid to mix things up and use several stitches together! This sampler coaster was created using the Rice Stitch, Tent Stitch and in the center a Cross Corner Cushion. Instructions for all appear below.

The sampler stitches - moving clockwise beginning at the upper left corner. Custom sampler - Cross Corner Cushion and Rice Stitches; Moorish Stitch; Hungarian Stitch; Brighton Stitch; Brick Filling Stitch; Scottish Diamond Stitch.

The how-to's below are arranged beginning with the easiest stitch and ending with those that present a bit of a challenge.

MOORISH STITCH

The Moorish stitch is the simplest because it is based on the tent stitch. And because it is a diagonal stitch, only one yarn is needed for good canvas coverage.

1. Begin by making a tent stitch as shown above. If you are not familiar with needlepoint or working plastic canvas, notice that the stitch is made diagonally rather than vertically or horizontally.

2. Bring your yarn up through the hole directly below where you started the first stitch and back down to the right of where you returned to the back.

3. Make a third stitch as shown. Notice that the outside edges of the stitch are beginning to form a square. Also notice that the third stitch is the longest and involves four holes. (Yarn to the front, over two holes, yarn to the back.)

4. Now complete the square by making two more stitches - ending with a tent stitch at the lower right corner of the square.

See! A perfect square filled in with diagonal stitches!

5. Continue working across the canvas. Notice in the image above that the single tent stitch is a "shared stitch". The last stitch in a "square" (or diamond) is also the first stitch in the next.

By beginning your next stitch with this shared stitch, the pattern will automatically create a series of offset squares.

6. Now simply "trace" the zig zag outline of the completed stitches using a contrasting color yarn and a simple tent stitch.

7. "Trace" the outlined of the opposite side of the completed stitches using the same or a different color yarn.

7. Repeat until the entire canvas is filled with stitches!

HUNGARIAN STITCH

Hungarian stitch is a very simple straight stitch worked vertically over the canvas holes.

Reminder: straight stitches do not cover the canvas as well as diagonal stitches, so be sure to make each stitch twice, use a double yarn or use a thick yarn.

1. Bring the yarn up from the back of the canvas to the front and return to the back as shown. Notice that the stitch follows the canvas vertical bars and the first stitch skips over one hole.

2. Make a second stitch in the very same holes making sure the yarns lay next to each other. (If using a double yarn or heavy yarn, this step is not necessary.

3. Make the second and third stitches as shown above. Notice that the second stitch covers 5 holes - yarn to the front, over three holes and return to the back.

4. Continue making stitches across the width of the canvas. Notice that unlike the Moorish stitch, there are no shared stitches. Leave a space of one hole between sets of stitches as shown above. This space will be occupied by stitches (green) made above and below this row of stitches .

5. The next row of stitches are made exactly like the first. However, notice the placement of the stitches in relationship to the first row completed. The longest center stitch makes use of the space left between the previous stitches.

Take a good look at the pattern and do a little practicing if needed.

BRICK FILL STITCH

The Brick Fill stitch is a straight stitch that is worked horizontally over the holes in the canvas. And just like the vertically worked Hungarian Stitch, it does not provide the best coverage. A couple "bricks" were worked using only one yarn to show the difference in coverage.

The stitch is quite simple. Stitches are placed in the canvas just as bricks are placed in a wall. The vertical joints are made more interesting with contrasting colored yarns.

1. Bricks are worked over five holes. Holes 1 and 5 are shared holes and become the joints.

2. Each brick is formed using two adjacent sets of five holes.

3. Once the first brick is formed, place the next brick as shown, beginning at the midpoint of the previous brick.

4. Work these two rows of bricks across the entire width of the canvas before beginning the next two rows.

5. To create the joints, select a contrasting yarn and make stitches over the joints as shown.

You can clearly see in the last image how important it is to use two yarns or a bulky yarn when making this stitch.

SCOTTISH DIAMOND

Another version of the straight stitch! I seem to be drawn to straight stitches - perhaps influenced by my infatuation with Bargello?

Again, part of the stitch was worked in a single yarn for reference. The orange yarn used as the outline stitches is a bulky weight yarn.

1.The first part of the stitch is very similar to the Hungarian stitch except that the longest stitch is made over 7 holes instead of five; and you will be making five stitches per square instead of three.

2. Work the diamonds across the width of the canvas.

3. The outline is worked as shown above using vertical straight stitches in contrasting colored yarn following the outline of the pattern and meeting in the space left between the diamonds.

(sorry this one turned out a bit blurry)

4. Once the outline work on the first row of diamonds is completed, begin making the second row of diamonds.

The completed row will provide a guide for your stitches and as you work you will notice the diamonds are off-set from the previous row.

RICE STITCH

This stitch had to be modified a bit to be used successfully with 7 hole plastic canvas. If you happen to like cross stitch, you will love this stitch.

It does take a while to cover the canvas as you are making stitches on top of stitches, but is is quite pretty when done in contrasting colors.

1. Begin the cross stitch as shown

2. See! A perfect little cross stitch!

3. Now make a bunch of them!!! Completely cover the area you wish to cover with little X's!

4. Select a contrasting color yarn and create a little diamond pattern on top of the cross stitch.

5. I think the best way to describe the stitch sequence for the little diamond is to imagine a clock and follow these steps.

a) Bring the needle from the back to the front at 3:00. Return to the back at 6:00.

b) Bring the needle from the back to the front at 12:00. Return to the back at 3:00.

c) Bring the needle from the back to the front at 9:00. Return to the back at 12:00.

d) Bring the needle from the back to the front at 6:00. Return to the back at 9:00.

6. Continue across the row in the same way.

7. When you reach the end of a row, you can return in the way shown or, start again at the beginning of the next row.

BRIGHTON STITCH

LOVE this stitch (and the next one!!)

Because it is worked diagonally, it does a pretty good job of coverage. I was pleased with the results using only one strand of worsted yarn.

It looks complicated but really is quite similar to the Moorish stitch. But don't dive in and start with this one!!! Practice the Moorish stitch first.

I found that once the first square (upper left) was in place, it was pretty easy to make the other three squares. But again, practice a bit first till you are comfortable with the pattern.

The pattern can be worked in one color or several. I did not realize when I created this practice strip that once more rows of pattern were added there would be lovely little openings between the pattern segments to be filled with the criss cross stitch!

1. The stitch is begun, as is the Moorish stitch, with a tent stitch. However this time the first stitch is made using three holes instead of two. (Notice the hole hiding beneath the first stitch).

2. Create four diagonally stitched squares using the image above as a guide. Notice the shape resembles an octogon!

3. Fill in the center with contrasting yarn. Begin by making a vertical stitch, then a horizontal stitch - you will have a +.

4. Over the little cross just completed, stitch an X.

5. I prefer to fill the entire canvas with the large pattern and then go back and fill in the centers and the spaces where four squares join (blue).

I used a contrasting color yarn to fill in the openings where the corners of the blocks meet and then used the same color yarn to whip stitch the edges. This treatment helped the pattern to pop.

CROSS CORNER CUSHION

This stitch looks much more complicated than it really is. It is a variation of the Moorish stitch but is worked over six holes at it's widest part. I have worked the sample next to the Brighton stitch for comparison.

The Brighton (left) and Cross Corner Cushion (right). Take particular notice of the directions of the stitches that make up the four small square elements of both patterns.

The stitches in the Cross Corner Cushion all seem to point toward the center. The stitches in the Brighton Stitch seem to surround the center.

1. Begin making the first square (upper left square of the Cross Corner Pattern) with a tent stitch and proceed making 4 more diagonal stitches, each stitch longer than the last to make a total of 5 stitches. The fifth stitch which will be at the center of the square and covers 6 holes.

2. Once the fifth stitch is in place, begin making shorter stitches again to complete the square and end with a tent stitch.

3. Complete three more squares. Notice that the long center stitch in each square begins at the outer corner and ends at the center.

4. Overstitch a diamond in a contrasting color.

I found that it was much easier to place the yarns correctly if I began stitching at the outside of the diamond and worked toward the center.

In the image above you can see that I started stitching the diamond section on the right from the center. I lost my way and had to remove stitches.

It is much easier to follow the pattern if the diamond stitch is begun at the outside edge as you see above.

Once the diamond is complete, the stitch is done! Again, practice the Moorish stitch and then practice this stitch a couple times.

If you wish to use your samplers as coasters, simply whip stitch the edges in a matching or contrasting color. Glue or stitch a square of felt or wool felt or felted wool sweater onto the back side.

Or make your samplers much bigger, mix up your stitches and create eye catching wall art like Diane's Plastic Canvas Wall Hanging!

If you are still here (and if you are I appreciate your patience and interest so very much) visit all the other brilliant plastic canvas artists that have participated in this hop! You will find pictures and the links below!

Each blog hop participant shares something new and clever to inspire you further. And all of them take plastic canvas to a whole new level!!!

Don't you agree?

Don't Forget! The Fabulous Plastic Canvas Blog Hop Continues Through This Week

Pam — Mon, 13 May 2013 15:33:33 +0000

Just a little reminder to everyone to be sure to pop over to Craftypod and read all about the cool Plastic Canvas Blog Hop Diane is hosting in that space for the next couple weeks!

Or scroll to the bottom of this post to find a new and amazing project every day this coming week!

My little plastic canvas contribution - my very first adventure in the world of plastic canvas - will appear on the 16th! Stretching outside my comfort zone and all that!

Diane has been crazy about this stuff for years - since she was 12 in fact! But I just couldn't understand what all the fuss was about! After all - it wasn't REAL canvas. It was made of plastic. (And I was a bit of a canvas snob!)

NOW I understand! Wait till you try it! You will understand what the fuss is about too!

Visit Diane's post right now and then visit the blog homes of all the participants. You will find links at the bottom of her post.

And keep an eye out every day through the 17th for new links to plastic canvas tutorials appearing as if by magic thanks to the wizard behind the curtain at Inlinkz!

"Stuffed Animals: From Concept to Construction"

Pam — Wed, 08 May 2013 01:09:37 +0000

Introducing my very bright, very sparkly "Rainbow Fish" made using the sweet "FISH" pattern and instructions in Abigail Patner Glassenberg's brand new fabulous book "Stuffed Animals: from Concept to Construction". You can order your very own copy here or here!

Read and hear more about it here in Abby's own words.

AND be sure to pop over and enter the fabulous Release Date Giveaway on While she Naps.

I have been impatiently waiting for Abby's book to finally reach it's publish date - for what seems like f-o-r-e-v-e-r! When it comes to making stuffed animals - Abby Glassenberg knows - well - her stuff-ing - inside and out! She has spent years perfecting her skills through trial and error, frustration and triumph, and now at last she is sharing all that she has learned in "Stuffed Animals: from Concept to Construction".

Having learned several very useful tips about the ins/outs and dos/don'ts concerning soft toy making while visiting Abby's blog "While She Naps", I just knew her book was going to fill what - until now - has been a big void of information on the subject. This book is truely a MUST HAVE for anyone wanting to sew stuffed animals.

What I think is absolutely the most valuable feature of this book is that it is designed to teach. First to teach the basics of stuffed toy making and then to provide the tools needed so that anyone can make not just Abby's 16 stuffed toy projects, but almost any stuffed toy imaginable!

Recreate a stuffed toy version of your favorite animal or lizard - or insect if you dare! Or turn those wonderfully magical drawings your children have bestowed on you into soft toys they can hold and love.

Of course, "Stuffed Animals: From Concept to Construction" includes directions and patterns for 16 adorable soft toys - from monkey to monster. However, the book is designed to be much, much more than a collection of projects. It is the kind of learning tool you will keep in your library long after most books featuring collections of cute projects have been given away.

Abby holds a master's degree in education from Harvard and taught middle school before becoming a mother and textile artist. The quality and thoroughness found in every lesson is a reflection of her training and experience.

Instructions for making gussets and leg darts that Abby so generously provided on "While She Naps" are 100% responsible for my success in making my own stuffed Dala. Having already completely failed to make a stuffed pony that could stand on it's own two feet, I will always be grateful to Abby for teaching me how to make a stuffed Dala horse that would stand as tall and proud as any wooden Dala horse!

But gussets and leg darts are really just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the wealth of tips and techniques shared in "Stuffed Animals: ...". There are many new adventures and learning experiences waiting for me - and for you - on every page!

The minute my copy of "Stuffed Animals: From Concept to Construction" arrived, I read the first three chapters - every single word. Don't be tempted to even skip the first chapter "Tools and Materials". Take the time to read all three introductory chapters carefully and then take Abby's advice and make "Fish"!

Everything you have learned in the first three chapters will make sense! And you will come to understand the importance and the role played by every detail in making a successful and beautiful stuffed animal.

I have a great deal of sewing experience under my belt and in my determination to cut the body fabric for my fish so that the wave pattern would be vertical, I chose to ignore Abby's advice to pay attention to grain. Not a good decision! Without the stretch in the fabric that would have been there had I cut the body as Abby instructed, I had to pull out every trick I ever learned to get the body and head pieces eased and stitched together - and I still have a couple little puckers! Lesson learned, Abby!!!

Take a moment to study the index. Notice that the first three chapters I mentioned are followed by 16 projects, and imbedded in each project - lessons and tips.

While making each project, you will be learning new techniques - each more advanced than the last. The projects are carefully designed to give you the opportunity to learn and practice new skills - from making movable limbs to turning a very long thin tail!

But remember - what is most valuable about these lessons and tips is that Abby is teaching you how to ultimately design and make your very own stuffed animals!

And right now I am doing just exactly that!

Notice the little stars in the index above - marking lessons I will especially need in order to complete my creature.

He is currently in the 'third muslin alteration stage' (see chapter 2, page 20 and 21); however, I promise to share my brand new beautiful stuffed animal with you in a couple weeks!

In the meantime, "Stuffed Animals: from Concept to Construction" is available in your favorite local book store, or on line here or here - so pop over and get your copy now!

And while you are at it, pick up a copy for Mom! So she can make stuffed animals for her grand children! Mother's Day is right around the corner!

It Is Officially May! Come Blog Reading With Me! I Found Some Great Tutorials and Tips to Share!

Pam — Thu, 02 May 2013 21:03:32 +0000

Embroidery! Quilting! Felting! Bag making! A little "tin" work and the prettiest and easiest little perfume bottles ever!! And a free embroidery e-book! You will find it all here! In these links to some pretty fabulous tutorials, tips and beautiful craft!

And yes! That IS the back side of my Dutch Canal House embroidery above! I was inspired to share it here at &Stitches.

And to share my little embroidery kit. The super fab team over at &Stitches sponsored a giveaway recently - all anyone had to so to enter was share pictures of their embroidery tool kit and most valuable or unusual embroidery tools.

The giveaway is over but the thing is - we are all winners because images and tips from all 25 entrants are archived here. Most likely you will find some very useful tips and must haves for your own embroidery tool kit!

And while we are on the subject of embroidery - don't miss getting your own free copy of this embroidery e-book!

Helen at Bustle and Sew has written "Simple Stitchery: A Little Embroidery Primer" and it is yours - absolutely free! Get your copy here!

Image by Katie at Duo Fiberworks used with permission

It is no secret I have fallen for felting - especially kniting/wet felting!!!

Katie at Duo Fiberworks has just published a "How I Felt Series". You will find links to all the installments here … and some beautiful and inspiring ideas for easy knit/felted projects. Be sure to pop over for the sweetest little tea light holders!

Do you want to learn more about applique? You will find this three part applique series on The Crafty Quilter very helpful. Part 1 - Terminology: Part 2 - Machine Applique with Fusibles: Part 3 - Machine Applique Stitches

Image used with permission from Julie at The Crafty Quilter

And check out this totally cool basket/bag Julie just finished making! She intends it to be a diaper/burp cloth basket, but I imagine there are a million other ways this Divided Basket Pattern, designed by "Noodlehead" could be put to good use!

I mean we are all crafters aren't we - and we all need good places to store our stash and work in progress! Thank you Julie for pointing me to this great pattern!

Image used with permission from Diane at Craftypod

Speaking of "bags" - don't miss this beautiful tote featured on Michele Made Me! Yes! I know - Diane made it and maybe I am being a little motherly proud here, but - how many of us have found discarded quilts or quilt blocks in thrifts and thought oh if only there were a way to save them. Diane found such a quilt ... and she figured out a way to give it new life!

If I can't talk her out of one of these for my birthday, I will definitely make one of my own!! I just came into possession of a couple old family quilts and not every part of them is in the best of shape. This is a great solution for saving them.

BTW - there were a few blocks left over after making two totes and this is how Diane used them! Hexie Coasters! She shares the tutorial here on Craftypod

Image used with permission from Michelle at Mich L. in L.A.

Look at how pretty! I love how these look and I especially love that they are easily made using old discarded, or thrifted crystal salt shakers!

Michelle show you exactly how to make them right here. Perfect Mother's Day gifts! I just discovered Mich L. in L,A. and I love the blog! I think you will too!

I was not able to reach the following bloggers to ask permission to use their images. But do link over! You will be glad you did!

This amazing Textured Quilt Sampler Tutorial shared on "Sewn Up by TeresaDownUnder" is going to totally excite your crafty heart!!!

How many times have I said - right here on this very blog - 'I am not into making large quilts any longer'? Well - I guess I have been misinformed!!!

I absolutely can not wait to begin making a sampler quilt similar to this one. Each sampler block technique is more beautiful than the last!! Don't miss this link. Seriously. These blocks are gorgeous. Inspiring! And I for one absolutely must make one of each!

And for those of you who love to dabble or seriously play with metal here are a couple very cool places to go for inspiration!

Suzy's Artsy-Craftsy Sitcom shares a tutorial for making very pretty Faux Tin Tiles using recycled aluminum cookie sheets! The technique and the beautiful floral patterns are included. Even if you are not into metal art - you will enjoy seeing these tiles - pop over!

And - while visiting The Crafty Crow (which I do often!) I found this! Making your very own alcohol inks from old marker pens. I am so crazy eager to give this a try!!!You will find the links to the tutorial right here!

That's it for this time!!! I hope you find something helpful or inspiring!

Check Out the New Additions to Gingerbreadsnowflakes!

Pam — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 22:33:49 +0000

My super awesome daughter Diane, who takes very good care of her technically challenged mother, has added a couple new goodies to Gingerbreadsnowflakes!

(Note: added after publication - this is only an image of my new flickr button. To link to the Seasonal Favorites set and find the link to my sets page, please link from the flickr button on the side bar.)

Did anyone notice my NEW Flickr button?

(FYI - I did manage to design it all by myself - Diane installed it for me!)

Anyway, I have been working on this change for some time and am very excited that it is now ready for my readers!

The previous Flickr button linked to "Gingerbreadsnowflakes at Play", a Flickr group designed as a place for readers to add pictures of their own versions of my tutorials. That didn't really happen. At first yes - but not lately.

So that button is gone! Replaced by this cool button that links you directly to my sets page!

And that is cool why?

(Note: added after publication: This is only an illustration of my set page. If you wish to visit my set page on flickr, please use the flickr button on the side bar)

Because the link takes you to "Seasonal Favorites Set" in which you will find a few of my very favorite tutorials and, in addition, a link to my "Sets page".

Many of the Sets pictured represent a collection of tutorial images and links so that you can easily find every single one of my tutorials in one beautiful spot!

Click on a set and then click an image of something you like and there in the discription you will find a link to the tutorial!

(Note: Added after publication: The image above is simply an illustration. To link to any of the categories listed in the image above, please access them using the menu bar at the top of my blog.)

I am equally excited about this addition to my post menu! Click on "Celebrations" in the menu bar right under my header! You will find a new option listed: "Around the World".

With help from generous online friends, December the last three years has been pretty much devoted to sharing Christmas and winter holiday celebrations around the world.

But, December is a very busy time and most of us find it hard to set aside the time to read about Christmas in Iceland or Okinawa. We are lucky if our gifts are wrapped and under the tree before 4:00 am Christmas morning!

So a brand new menu category has been added - a special place where these posts live and make it possible for you to access them easily - when you are not so busy!!! Maybe during Christmas in July!!

I hope you will find these two new tools helpful! Let me know what you think!

Making Hexies On The Go Travel Kit

Pam — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:40:02 +0000

Most of my readers know that when I am working on a project in earnest, I carry it with me almost everywhere I go to take advantage of what would otherwise be "lost" minutes! This habit is a big part of how I manage to fit as much crafty goodness into my life as I do! Generally speaking - most fiber crafts - knitting, crochet, embroidery and hand sewing - are excellent candidates! Hexies on the go - a bit more challenging! So many little bits and scraps - and hexies to corral.

To keep all those little completed 3/4" hexes, the cutting scraps, pins, needle, thread, patterns together and organized while on the move, I put together a "hexies on the go" kit about four years ago!

And as often happens when a new idea is put to the test - I added a few improvements!

My new improved "hexies on the go" kit is still tucked into a 10 1/2" x 10 1/2" x 1 3/4" gift box. But I have added a couple zip-loc baggies to hold fabric waiting to become hexes and excess cutting scraps.

Not only do they perform the task they are given very well, they also work beautifully to hold the kit parts in place during transport! (Handmade fabric bags would work well too!)

Lay these two bags aside and the "working" layer is exposed.

The mini muffin tin is the most useful "upgrade"! It fits perfectly in the box, and each little cup holds about 25 mini hexies which helps me keep track of my progress. Once all 12 cups are filled, it is time to add them to the quilt!

The cardboard? I place that over the muffin tin when done stitching to discourage the tiny hexies from visiting each other while I am otherwise occupied!

The little box on the lower left holds a pin cushion, sharp "fabric" scissors, and paper scissors; and is very convenient for catching cutting scraps. ( When they build up - I add them to the cutting scrap bag.)

I love the convenience of being able to simply sit this box on my lap. All the little scraps fall right into that little box as I cut around the hexie pattern!

The box on the right holds recycled tea light cups given new purpose as paper hexie storage. And two spools of thread. Black thread for hexie basting and gold thread for stitching hexies together.

GOLD thread? The hexies are red, white and green! Why GOLD?

Using a neutral colored thread for stitching hexies together will result in almost invisible stitches! I learned that trick from Joanie at Nini Makes! You will find some very good tips in Joanie's post.

Lift the muffin tin to find the paper pattern's hiding place!

FYI for larger size hexies, the original box set up will work quite well. You can see that here.

Small hand stitching projects, like these hexie pin cushions, will also travel well in a similar "on the go box".

Work in Progress to Share - Including a Completed Winter Holidays Solstice Quilt Block

Pam — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 20:39:12 +0000

Bringing you up to date on current WIPs! The biggest and best news to share: The Solstice Quilt Block is finally - after almost a year - completed!!!!

I am sharing a few quick detail shots of the quilt block and then peeks at current WIPs!

If you haven't been following the progress and are curious, you can read about the beginning here, how I made the pattern here and progress here and here.

Most of the embroidery was completed using Stem Stitch and Running Stitch. But I was delighted to discover that scattering Seed Stitches on the sun created the illusion of a roiling surface.

Making trees using the Maidenhair Stitch (found in Stitching Borders and Beyond) was so much fun that I almost had to hide the embroidery floss to keep from making too many.

Unfortunately as a direct result of the fact that I have no clue what I am doing most of the time while playing at quilting, I ended up with raw edges which needed covering - and so - the border! An Interlaced Band Stitch - perfect for covering the raw edges and adding a nice, unplanned detail to the overall design.!

Maryline (Mary and Patch blog) offered a solution for creating a backing and frame at the same time. As it turns out - her suggestion was perfect. Thank you Maryline!

A scrap of pre-quilted fabric in my stash worked beautifully to hide the embroidery stitches on the back and add a bit more stiffness.

Just need to add hanging loops!

After taking a four year "vacation", I am back at work again on my mini (3/4" - 2cm) hexie tree skirt for my miniature winter holiday tree. When I left off - I had stitched 260 mini hexies together. With at least twice that number left to go, is it any surprise I took a nice long vacation?

Every fabric comes from my much loved " '70's Christmas crafting with Diane" stash!

I will share more tomorrow - about my "make hexies on the go kit" as it has become even more efficient!

Little glass 'shrooms similar to these danced among the branches of my first childhood Christmas trees - and there were always several in the lovely meadows where Raggedy Ann picnicked with Andy and Uncle Clem. I have been crazy about them all my life!

This year I am making fiber 'shrooms - lots of them!! To hang on my tree in December. These are the first completed!

The pattern for the single 'shroom is from That's Wooly Something shop, and the cluster was needle felted from a kit purchased at Fairy Folk and the Magic Onions Shop.

I am absolutely crazy in love with that needle felting pad the 'shrooms are resting on in the image above. I ordered it from Moxie's shop "Hifiber Needle Felting Kits" because it is nice and big AND because it completely melts in water so it is totally biodegradable. Believe me when I tell you - it is wonderful to felt on. Order your very own here!!

And while there, don't overlook the delicious selection of roving. I LOVE shopping at Moxie's shop!

Waiting for these to dry!

And when they do - I can begin making them look something like this!

Woolly Matryoshka and Woolly Snowbaby patterns are available in the Mary Mayhew Designs shop on Ravelry or in her That's Woolly Something Etsy Shop.

I followed Marie's suggestion for making the teeny tiny 5" snowbaby into a much bigger "snow adult" by kniting the Snowbaby pattern using two strands of worsted wool, one strand of alpaca sport and #13 needles. He is a giant 10" tall! Perfect size for some embroidered details on his big round tummy!

Needle felted flowers are planned for the Matryoshka's skirt and scarf.

(The blue dot on the top of her head - NOT part of the pattern. I just ran out of "stash" yarn four rows from the big finish!!) So, my Matryoshka will soon be the first Matryoshka to be the proud owner of a flower fascinator!

Yaaaay! Beginning my first project from Abby Patner Glassenberg's brand spanking beautiful fabulous new book "Stuffed Animals: From Concept to Construction".

It is finally available! AND it is every bit as amazing as I knew it would be. MORE amazing!

I will be reviewing it very soon. AND sharing my completed project!

And look at this!!! I - me the non-fan of plastic canvas - am playing with plastic canvas. And loving it!! Because I returned to my needle point/bargello roots and applied something I dearly loved doing to plastic canvas!

Will be sharing more in Diane's soon to begin plastic canvas themed blog hop. Watch for details on Craftypod!

Make Your Very Own Scandinavian Shaved Wood Ornaments - from a Kit!!

Pam — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 22:05:11 +0000

Look at these beautiful Scandinavian shaved wood ornaments! Created using REAL wood savings! I love them to pieces! Just finished making them using a Shaved Wood Ornament Kit which I am very excited to share with you!!

Some of you may remember this post from July 2010 in which I shared two shaved wood treasures that have been in my Christmas tree ornament collection since I first began collecting Christmas ornaments. I also put out a plea for help finding a source for shaved wood or the ornaments.

You may remember that my amazingly kind and generous friend, Gill, sent me several rolls of "hobby spaan" (as it is called) from Norway. And since the day the Spaan arrived, I have spent many blissful hours making Scandinavian shaved wood ornaments. BUT I could never get the hang of making tight or spiral curls.

And, the European supplier was not too eager to ship directly to the USA. So I have been disappointed that I could not share a source for the material with my readers - many of whom are of Scandinavian heritage!

But making those sweet little curls is no longer a problem because now, thanks to a lovely woman in Michigan, I can order them already made for me!!

And as you can see above, I have successfully duplicated one of my original shaved wood treasures which was constructed from several spiral curls. (Darker wood is the original)

What has me more excited than making the ornaments is that now, finally, I can point you, my lovely readers, to "Olsen's Scandinavian Ornaments" where you can order a kit, just like the one above, and make your own Scandinavian Shaved Wood Ornaments!!!

For just $10.00 (which includes shipping within the continental USA) you can order a kit just like this one. Look at all the perfect little wood curls! There are enough curls in the kit to make 7 to 8 ornaments!

And because this is a kit - along with instructions, clips for holding your little curls together as the glue dries and strings for hanging are included! All you really need to supply is glue!

Once my kit arrived, I took a few pictures for the post and then began making ornaments!

In no time I had glued together the elements needed for four ornaments - and still had half the curls sent in the kit left - to share with Diane of course!

I could hardly wait for Aleene's Tacky Glue to dry so that I could begin assembling the elements into ornaments!

Drying!

Four beautiful brand new Scandinavian Shaved Wood Ornaments for my collection!!

And this beautiful woman is the ornament artist! Jan Dolland!

(Her daughter sent me the picture which was recently published in a Detroit nerwspaper.)

Actually, she has been making Scandinavian Shaved Wood Ornaments for years and years! Her daughter shared with me that she has many memories of sitting at the kitchen table watching as her mother made shaved wood ornaments to sell at local craft fairs.

Patti (Jan's Daughter) tells the story in her own words!

"It all started probably 35 years ago when she saw pictures of wood shaving ornaments in the Sunset magazine. She spent a year in Europe while in her 20's and was familiar with the ornaments. My grandfather was an avid woodworker and figured out a way to make them. One difference was the ones in the magazine were made from long strips that needed to be cut down and soaked in order to get the correct shape. My grandpa made short shavings that curled on their own. The only time she soaked them was to make long tear-drop shaped shavings. My grandpa and father made the shavings by hand for years, doing exactly as your husband said, with a plane. Then quite a few years ago, my dad, being a draftsman, came up with a machine to automate the process. It makes it much easier and the shavings turn out the same way."

And not only does Jan make ornaments, but she is an accomplished chocolatier who shares her knowledge and expertise by teaching classes. According to Jan, chocolate is her "first love"!

AND…there is more! She lectures around the country sharing her knowledge of the small quilting community of Gee's Bend, Alabama.

And, she still makes Scandinavian wood shaved ornaments to sell at fairs! She sent these little beauties with my kit order! They are so pretty wrapped in the cellophane bags that I can't being myself to open them! Currently I am displaying them in a beautiful hand thrown raku bowl on the dining table!

HERE IS HOW TO ORDER A KIT FROM JAN!!

Send a check or money order made payable to Jan Dolland. Each kit including shipping within the continental USA is $10.00.

Send to:

Jan Dolland; 34305 Mulvey Road; Fraser, Michigan 48026

Be sure to include your return address. (Don't laugh - in my excitement, I forgot mine the first time I ordered!)

If you are interested in ordering completed ornaments, or have any questions, you can e-mail Jan here: oshavings@gmail.com

And if you live in the Detroit area, check in with her as I understand she will be teaching four ornament classes in the fall! Lucky you if you live nearby!!

How to Make Perfectly Creepy Beaded Spiders

Pam — Wed, 17 Apr 2013 21:03:42 +0000

My sweetie has agreed to show us how to make very cool beaded spiders!

He learned to make them several years ago and since then has taught the technique to friends and rock & mineral club members.

And now he has agreed to share the technique with my readers!

Once you get the basics figured out - you can create other many-legged creatures if you like.

Love his scorpion! And his creepy tarantula above!

HOW TO MAKE BEADED SPIDERS

To make one spider, you will need: 4 feet of 28 gauge non-tarnishing silver wire; 26 - 8/0 seed beads; 50 - 11/0 seed beads; 24 - 1/2" bugle beads; and 1 "abdomen" bead (5/8" to 1" in length).

Tools that are helpful but not necessary: wire cutters; wire straightener; needle nose or round nose pliers. If you do not have these tools, scissors will be sufficient.

1. Gently fold your wire in half (but do NOT crease).

2. Slip two 8/0 beads onto to one half of the wire and slide them to the center. These will become the "eyes" and are more interesting if they are a different color from the 8/0 beads used for the body.

3. Thread one end of the wire back through both beads. Pull until the wire is laying snuggly against the beads. You should now have a wire coming out of each side of the two eye beads. (Note: one wire will be a bit shorter than the other - NOT a problem.)

4. For each leg you will need 6 - 11/0 seed beads, 2 - 8/0 seed beads and 3 bugle beads.

11/0 seed beads are used at the beginning of each leg as a fastener and at the end as a foot. Note: We used a little gold colored "foot" bead for this spider so it would be easier to see.

Just so you know, sometimes my sweetie uses 8/0 seed beads instead of the smaller seed beads for the feet.

Each leg has three segments (bugle beds) and two joints (made of 1 8/0 seed bead and two 11/0 seed beads.)

5. To begin a leg, thread the beads onto one wire in the exact sequence shown above.

Just so you have a frame of reference, this is where we are headed.

6. Once all leg beads have been added, the wire is threaded back through all of the leg beads.

The first leg or two may seem fiddly - even impossible - but I promise, if you are patient and follow the steps and hints below, you will soon get the hang of making legs!

7.The "foot" bead (sorry just out of the pix frame) acts as an anchor, so do not run your wire back through the foot bead hole but rather around it.

8. Now begin to thread the wire back through the rest of the leg beads beginning with the bugle bead closest to the "foot" bead.

It is pretty easy to thread the wire through the first three to five beads. Thread the wire through as many as you can and then, to make things easier, slightly separate the beads to expose the wire between them as shown above.

9. Hold both wires together between your thumb and forefinger and slide the remaining beads over the wires. This is much easier than trying to thread one wire through all the beads and will help to prevent kinks from forming in the wire. Work slowly and carefully to avoid kinking the wire. Kinked wires do not go through bead holes easily! Sometimes not at all.

Move and separate the beads as needed as you continue threading.

10. Once the wire has been threaded through all the leg beads, pull it just a bit more so that the end extends a little beyond the last seed bead ("anchor" bead) as shown. You might find a little longer extension, like you see in the next photo, easier to work with at first.

11. Gently slide the whole set of beads (except the foot) toward the "eye" bead until they are almost touching.

12. Pull the wire gently but firmly drawing the "foot" bead toward the leg beads. The easiest way to so this is to hold the leg beads close to the "eye" beads in one hand and pull the wire with the other.

Note: if you are going to get a kink, this is usually when it will happen! Especially when you are making the first two legs. There is a lot of wire! So just work carefully and mindfully to avoid a kink.

If a kink does start to form, it almost always forms in the big loop where the foot bead is waiting patiently. Smooth it out before it it forms a tight kink by opening the loop at the foot end a little and smoothing out the wire before proceeding.

13. Continue pulling the wire and if necessary adjusting beads until the anchor bead at the body end of the leg is resting snuggly against the "eye" bead.

14. Proceed to the wire on the opposite side of the "eyes" and repeat steps 5 through 13.

Congratulations! You have completed two legs! And trust me these are the hardest legs of all!!! As the wires grow shorter, (and your fingers grow smarter) building legs becomes easier!

15. Select two of the 8/0 seed beads - these will become "body" beads.

16. Thread the ends of the wires through opposite sides of the two "body" beads. The wires will exit the two "body" beads on the opposite side of the "body" from where they started!

17. Gently but firmly pull the wires through the beads until the "body" beads are as snug as possible (shown above). Be careful not to pull so tight that the wire breaks.

18. Make a second set of legs.

19. Insert the wires into another pair of "body" beads and pull until snug against the first "body" beads as shown.

20. Make two more legs, add two more "body" beads and finally make the last two legs.

The legs get easier and easier with practice - right?

21. Thread the wires through opposite sides of one 8/0 seed bead, bring together as shown, and thread as if they were one wire through the large abdomen bead.

22. Separate the wires again and thread through opposite sides of a seed bead (either size). Bring the wires together again around the bead and twist the wires several times.

23. Cut the twisted wires to about 1/4" and push into the space between the abdomen and final seed bead. (Note: 28 gauge silver wire is very pliable and the little twist can be easily pushed into the space between the beads using your fingernail.)

You are done! Shape the legs in a spider-y like position and right before your eyes your handful of beads and wires becomes a spider! Depending on the beads you selected it will be cute or creepy!

Note: if you like, you can use three 11/0 seed beads for the leg joints (instead of two 11/0 and a 8/0 bead). But fair warning, if you do so and you choose all black beads, these spiders look pretty darn scary. Seriously! They give me the creeps.

Therefore, we like to make them colorful. We gave away the scary spiders!

Notice that pretty turquoise spider with the red garland bead on his behind! My sweetie made this one for me to hang on my tree during the winter holidays. I understand it is good luck - having a spider lurking about in your Christmas tree.

If you like, you can make a beaded abdomen like this one. Just follow the steps below.

1. You will need more wire for this option, so start with a wire about 5 feet long.

2. Make your spider following steps 1 through 20.

3. Thread wire through three 8/0 beads from both sides just as you did when adding two body beads.

4. Pull the wires so the beads are snug.

5. Use 4 beads to make the next row and then 5 beads for the next threading the wires through the beads from opposite sides just as before. Then add a row of 4 beads and 3 beads and finally 2 beads.

You can see the sequence described clearly in the diagram below. (The trantula body above has been further modified with goulishly green outline beads. So not the best example to follow.)

5. Twist the wires together several times and either hide them in the areas between beads or form them into a loop for hanging.

Spiders look pretty spooky-cool hanging, let me tell you! Even as I am writing, the thought of them hanging in dark corners makes me shiver!!!

Once you become comfortable with the technique, you can use it to create different but similarly shaped creatures - like scorpions. The method can be adapted to accommodate different beads and the body and abdomen can be lengthened or shortened, Use fewer legs for six legged insects. Or make 100 little short legs and make a centipede!

As always, if you have any questions at all, please put it in comments or send an e-mail and we will do our best to answer.

How To: Cereal Box Woven "Wheat Straw" Stars (Suns) to Celebrate the Primstav Summer Season

Pam — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 16:51:02 +0000

Today I am celebrating the beginning of the summer season!

Oops! Did I just rock your world?

According to ancient Norwegian calendar sticks known as "Primstavs", the year is basically divided into the summer (growing and harvesting) season and the winter (using up and surviving on what was harvested) season. And April 14th is the beginning of the summer season!

Primstavs of long ago were long sword shaped wooden boards originally used to help families living in isolated valleys throughout Norway keep track of church feast days. Each special day was given a specific symbol that described some aspect of a special calendar day or a saint. For instance, the winter solstice was represented by an image of a sun.

The earliest known Primstav dates from the early 1400's but some were still in use into the 19th century. Over time, as Lutheranism replaced Catholicism, the Catholic based symbols came to represent more secular needs and the Primstav became a sort of calendar of reminders for farming and household duties - when to plant, salt fish, begin spinning.
Take the time to read and enjoy the links below! I think you will find the images and the story of the Primstav, the special days and their symbols all quite fascinating.

Gotta love Google images!

Learn history and about ALL of the symbols

More history, drawing of a complete Primstav and about the Swedish version

So now - you know a little more about the symbols. No doubt you might be asking why I would be treating you to a tutorial for a star (or sun) instead of the official symbol for April 14th which is a tree!

Well - if you must have a tree: TREE Tutorial!

I am just so happy that the sun is now shining a full 14 hours a day - waking up the seeds buried in the soils of the northern hemisphere - I thought a pretty wheat star (which could also be considered to be a sun) would be appropriate! And even better, made of cardboard cereal boxes to also celebrate Earth Day which is only a week away!

Before beginning the tutorial - a quick THANK YOU once again to my re-use/upcycle Muse, Michele at Michele Made Me, who has taught me that cereal boxes make for excellent crafty endeavors. While you are visiting be sure to check out her brilliant and beautiful Recraft-along (using cereal box cardboard of course!)

And now......................................................

HOW TO MAKE A WOVEN WHEAR STAR ORNAMENT FROM CEREAL BOX CARDBOARD!

All you need to make a "faux" woven wheat straw star (sun): cereal box, pencil, ruler, scissors, masking tape, X-acto knife, perle cotton and bits of leftover yarn .

I bet you have everything on hand - right?

The very first step is to make a jig!

Weaving the stars can be a bit tricky (especially getting started) so I created a little jig to make it much easier.

The jig can be used over and over again, so once you have made the effort to make one, you can weave stars very quickly - and you won't feel like you need an extra pair of hands to do so.

Believe me if you have ever tried to juggle six wheat straws and weave them together without the jig, you will appreciate how much easier it is with the little jig!! AND best of all the jig makes weaving very kid friendly!

1. Cut a 8"x8" square from a cereal box. Trace a 3"x3" square in the center.

2. Cut a square in the very center that is approximately 1 1/2" x 1 1/2".

3. Mark each side of the 3" x 3" square into 1" segments.

4. Place numbers 1 through 12 right next to each mark in the same orientation as shown. Begin at the top with number 1 and number each mark clockwise around the square.

Note: The numbers are not designed to designate steps in winding but rather to indicate placement of the cardboard "wheat straws".

Your jig is complete!

5. Using a straightedge and X-acto knife, cut 6 thin strips from a cereal box. Cut each strip 1/8" wide and approximately 7" to 8" long.

6. Place the first cardboard straw along the 1-7 marks and tape into place.

7. Tape cardboard straws along the 3-9 marks and then along the 5-11 mark.

8. Next add the 2-9 cardboard straw and then the 6-12 straw.

9. Tape the final 4-10 straw into place. Note that this "straw" is resting on the very top of the straw pile at the center.

The placement sequence is very important. Please follow it exactly. (hint: I have actually written the sequence right on the front of my jig.)

Now we are ready to wind the yarn!

10. Cut a piece of perle cotton about 12" - 16" long - whatever you need to work comfortably.

11. Temporarily tape 3" of one end of the perle yarn to the back.

12. Bring the yarn to the front at the 4-10 straw as shown here ( left of center "pile").

13. Bring the yarn over the 4-10 straw and then, moving counter clockwise, under the 3-9 straw.

14. Bring the yarn over the 2-8 straw and under the 1-7, over 5-11 and under 3-9.

15. Continue around the straws, always moving counter clockwise, until you arrive at the beginning.

16. Bring the yarn to the back side, pull the yarn as snuggly as possible toward the center and tie a square knot at the back.

Now your cardboard straws are anchored in place and will be much easier to hold onto as you weave.

17. Carefully remove the tape and release the fledgling star from the jig!

18. Hold the star so that the front is facing you. Following the same weaving path as was used before, begin weaving at the 4-10 "straw" drawing the yarn over and under and over and under the straws.

Allow about the first 5 inches of yarn to hang loose at the back.

19. Once you have completed a full circle, draw the yarn snuggly against the perle cotton.

20. Continue weaving around the circle three or four more times. Then reverse the weave by placing the yarn under two adjoining straws as shown at the arrow.

Continue weaving as before and as you weave you should notice you are beginning to create a sort of basket weave pattern.

You can continue weaving in this way with a single color, or if you prefer, change color.

21. To change color, tie on the new color at the back of the star using a square knot.

22. Turn the star back over so the front side is facing you and continue weaving as before. Remember to pass the yarn under two straws as shown at the arrow before proceeding with the over/under pattern.

23. Continue weaving adding in more color if you wish. Or not!

If using worsted weight yarn, I found that I preferred my little weavings to be no more than 12 to 16 yarns wide. However, if you wish, your can continue weaving to the very tips of your "straws".

24. When weaving is complete, tie off the ends on the back using a square knot.

If you use sock or sport weight yarn, more rounds of weaving are needed; however, this also provides the opportunity to introduce more colors!

When I made the star above, I actually used a variegated yarn to see what would happen! And - I like it! So if you have some leftover variegated sock yarn in your stash - give it a try. See what happens!

25. Once weaving is complete and the yarns are tied off, you can carefully remove the perle cotton if you like. It is not necessary if the color blends with the rest of the weaving.

26. Trim the ends so they are all the same length. Or to make your star more 'star-like' - cut every other straw shorter than the straw on either side of it.

You have completed your first cardboard version of a woven wheat star (sun)!

Just as pretty as stars (suns) made from real wheat don't you think?

Of course most of you who follow me know that I use my wheat straw stars (suns) as tree ornaments during the winter holidays - placing them on the tree to celebrate the winter solstice.

I also use wheat straws to create little picture frame ornaments - cereal box cardboard would work great for this project! Especially if covered with glitter!

I am definitely planning to celebrate every future April 14th by hanging suns and cardboard wheat straw trees in the windows as garlands to welcome summer!

Midsummer too!

But NOT summer solstice. I don't celebrate that day. The day the sun begins it's journey south and our days begin to shorten. Don't celebrate that!