1. Size.

Yeah, size matters, especially when you have to wear it on your hand all day. Not every girl wishes for the Hope Diamond on her finger, so watch out with the size of the rock and know your bride’s jewelry habits before plunking down a fortune for a stone that might be uncomfortable on her ring finger. Does she normally wear large rings? If not, its most likely that they are bothersome to her. White gold rings are unique and elegant options. Women who work with their hands for a living, such as a waitress, computer typist, musician, etc, need a free range of motion with their fingers, and a heavy stone may be a lead weight.

2. Diamonds vs. Gold Band.

The cost and size of the wedding ring is no mathematical equation for your love. Some women treasure a diamond as the international stone for marriage, and others cherish the simplicity of a plain gold ring. If she’s a glamour puss and loves the attention from a precious gem, then diamond facing is the way to go. However, the plain gold band has only one meaning: her eternal devotion to you.

3. Is It A Surprise?

If you want to capture her heart with a surprise ring, then you will have to do your homework with a grade B or above. Would-be brides are intuitive about these things, so put your best sneaky foot forward for this task. You will need to know her ring size, (if you already bought a promise ring for her then you should already know this) diamond cut preference, colored stone additions or do you need to get a gold band. Many brides prefer the simple ring, and the best way to find out is to ask her family or friends if the ring is to be a surprise. However, be sure you chat with the tight-lipped ones that won’t spill the beans and ruin your romantic moment. And, as a matter of practicality, always keep your receipt for the length of the return or exchange period. Most of the time, love is a rose, but sometimes, love stinks.

By Kate Salter

The popular stone was first introduced into Western Europe by Persian merchants, who had brought it with them from Turkey. It was for this reason that the French initially gave the gem the name that translates as the ‘Turkish stone’, whilst the Spaniards opted for turquesa. Over time the name evolved into its current version - turquoise.

Turquoise has long been held in high regard in the Americas. North American turquoise mines extended all the way from the Californian desert to Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado, and helped to establish international relationships and forge alliances.

Turquoise mining dates back to prehistoric times, with miners originally using axes, picks, stones and chisels to dig tunnels in the hills near Cerrillos, New Mexico. The miners carried out bucket after bucket of rubble to get to the prized gem, then heat treated their findings on an open fire, before cooling them with buckets of water - which had been carried a great distance specifically for this purpose.

Like many gemstones, turquoise has long had a series of meaning and beliefs, with Pre-Colombian Mesoamerican society equating the gem with life itself and giving it an important position in religious ceremonies and other local events. Over time, South America and Central and North America developed a structured trade system for the buying and selling of Turquoise, with the stone providing an avenue for contact between the various societies within these regions. The information exchange that occurred during these times of trade meant that turquoise retained its religious links from country to country.

Turquoise is a stone that ages well and can be accurately dated using archeological dating techniques. A vast number of stones from Southwestern America were recovered for study 20 years ago to establish the link between different specimens found in different locations - with the results proving that the turquoise in one region was identical to the turquoise in another. The majority of turquoise originated from the mines near Cerrilos and followed the well-established trade south to Mexico and South America - and the identification techniques discovered that much of the turquoise recovered from South America actually originated from the mines near Cerrilos - absolute proof of the excellent trade route.

Today, turquoise remains a highly prized gemstone. It is often combined with silver, gold and many other brightly colored gemstones to create interesting and eye-catching items of jewelry. Its color may be what entices you, but next time you examine your turquoise jewelry you may also now remember its historical significance.

An example of this is ‘big’ items of jewelry, such as chunky bracelets and huge necklaces; which are again finding their way into the winter fashion collections. These types of jewelry have seen many revivals over the years, and it appears that they are back for yet another run.

The reason for this? High-end fashion labels and jewelry collections are becoming increasingly entwined, as more and more top design labels see this as their way into a related market. Even items of fine jewelry are now commonly associated with celebrities and fashion designers - an example being 150 year-old fine jeweler Fairfax and Roberts, who have commissioned 30 year-old Australian designer Michelle Jank to create a bespoke jewelry collection on their behalf.

Michelle has responded by creating a necklace, bracelet and ring set that combines large, chunky shapes in her signature style with 18-carat white gold, diamonds, topaz, citrine, aquamarine and pink tourmaline.

The result of collaborations such as this one has been a wave of jewelry design styles either seeing a return to prominence or taking then limelight for the first time. ‘Big’ jewelry is back with a bang, and we are sure to see much more of it over the coming months.

Here we provide a basic guide to jewelry terms such as these.

Antique

Antique is actually the only term that is defined by US law. With regards to jewelry it refers to any item that was created over 100 years ago. The term refers solely to age (Antique is Latin for the word ‘ancient’), and it would be mistaken to believe that anything of this age is necessarily valuable.

Beware: Antique is a term that is often misused in the jewelry industry, and it is common to see descriptions such as ‘antique-style’, which are non-descriptive and can give the impression that a piece is older than it actually is.

Classic

Classic can be another confusing term, as it relates mainly to the quality of an item rather than its age. Essentially, to be accurately described as ‘classic’, a piece of jewelry needs to exhibit all of the best qualities of a certain style.

In theory a classic item can be of any age, but in practice a style or artist would need to have developed a reputation over the years in order for a piece to be tagged a classic. You may also, for instance, see the tag used to describe a traditional item, such as a ‘classic diamond ring’.

Vintage

Vintage is a term more associated with the wine making industry, but is also regularly used in jewelry descriptions. Contrary to popular belief a vintage item does not necessarily have to be old, it simply has to be a high-quality example of a piece of its time. The last three words are of particular importance here as the item can be of any age; it is possible to have a vintage 1950’s necklace or a vintage 1920’s brooch for example.

Again, do not be confused by terms such as ‘vintage-style’, as this simply means the item has been created in the style of the timeframe in question, and is not necessarily from that era.

Retro

Retro is more of a slang term, and is used to describe a piece that is reminiscent of or associated with a previous era - usually in the recent past (i.e. the last 50 years approx.) Like antique, retro refers solely to age rather than quality.

The term is most descriptive when accompanied by a time period - such as a ‘retro 1980’s studded pearl earring’.

Period

There are several definitions of the term ‘period’, but in the jewelry world it generally refers to an item that is from a specific block of history, such as the Renaissance or the American Civil War. The term is mainly used by collectors who purchase items from that particular part of history, and ‘antique’, ‘vintage’ and ‘retro’ are more descriptive terms for the general public.

Simple Definitions

If you are (understandably) still confused, you can use these simple definitions:

• Antique: Over 100 years old, but not necessarily valuable.
• Classic: A fine example of an item of its type, though not necessarily old.
• Vintage: A high quality example of its time. Can be of any age.
• Retro: Associated with a particular time period. Does not reflect on the quality of the item.
• Period: From the time of a particular historical event.

Traditionally the three precious colored gemstones are rubies, emeralds and sapphires. These stones are always in demand, and have had high levels of popularity for many years due to their vibrant colors and rarity.

Originally, stones other than the ‘big three’ were known as ‘colored gemstones’ , but as they began to rise in popularity a new term was coined – ’semi precious’.

The problem with this term is that it is completely misleading! Originally the term was used because it reflected the rarity of the stones in question, but it is no longer accurate. Rubies, emeralds and sapphires can indeed warrant high prices, but some so-called semi-precious stones can command even higher sale prices! An example of this is a Paraiba tourmaline, which can sell for up to $20,000 per carat – far more than rubies, emeralds and sapphires.

The result of this is that usage of the term ’semi-precious’ has dropped significantly in in the jewelry industry in recent years, and if you decide to make a purchase of one of these types of stones, you can be sure that a large, clean-cut and well-colored stone can indeed become a ‘fully precious’ item!

Historical Use

It is believed that platinum was first used by the South American Indians, just before the turn of the 15^th century. They developed a technique that involved sintering the metal (heating it below its melting point) to produce various artifacts, such as ingots, though were unable to melt it. When the Spanish conquered South America and discovered the substance they initially regarded it as worthless.

Value of Platinum

How times have changed! The value of platinum fluctuates depending on market forces, but is currently trading at around $1,350 per ounce - considerably more than gold, and dozens of times the price of silver.

As with most gems and metals, the rarity of platinum is what makes it so valuable. It is found in just a few locations around the globe, and is around 30 times rarer than gold. This level of exclusivity means an individual who is wearing an item of platinum jewelry is really making a statement about who they are, and displaying that they really appreciate the finer things in life.

Platinum Properties

Platinum has many qualities which make it the most expensive and revered metal. The first thing to note with platinum is that it is extremely pure - usually 95%, as opposed to the 75% purity level of gold. The way to discover the purity of an item of platinum jewelry is to look for the stamping mark inside the piece. It is listed as parts per thousand, so 1000 parts equals 100%. 95% and 90% are by far the most common, with the remaining alloys often being any combination of copper, palladium, tungsten, iridium, cobalt, or various other metals. This high level of purity means that even those with sensitive skin will not be troubled by the metal.

Platinum is also naturally white in color, and does not fade or tarnish over time, unlike silver. This makes it an extremely durable and hard-wearing metal that is ideal for heavier items of jewelry. As the metal is so tough it will hold gemstones firmly in place, and these items will then essentially be protected for a lifetime of wear.

Use in Jewelry

Although platinum has had many uses over the years, it was only first used in jewelry in the mid-nineteenth century, and then only widely used from the 1920’s onwards, becoming popular with the Art Deco movement of the time. It is worth noting, however, that hallmarking only became a legal requirement in 1975, so platinum jewelry made before this time can be of variable purity.

Qualities such as those listed above, coupled with the exclusivity of the metal have made platinum the metal of choice for top designers such as Cartier and Faberge.

Much of this can be attributed to her jewelry collection, with Jacqueline renowned for often wearing oversized necklaces and bracelets produced by famous French jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels - often in conjunction with the sleeveless A-line dresses and pillbox hats which became known as the ‘Jackie look’. Jean Schlumberger was another of her favorite jewelry designers.

After she left the White House following the famous assassination of her husband, Jacqueline changed her style of fashion considerably. In 1968 she married Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, who showered her with regular gifts of expensive jewelry, including a series of bracelets designed by Harry Winston.

When Jacqueline’s engagement ring from her marriage to Aristotle Onassis was sold at auction of her estate in 1996, it went for a massive $2.6 million. It was during this auction that the full extent of Jacqueline’s jewelry collection was revealed, with items of note including:

• A spectacular 47-carat kunzite ring bought for her by JFK (but which he never had the chance to give to her), which sold for $410,000
• A striking amethyst necklace, which sold for $55,000
• A 19^th century cabochon garnet flower brooch, which sold for $145,000
• Stunning cabochon ruby earrings ($360,000) and necklace ($248,000)

In total the jewelry collection amassed over $5 million. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis had exquisite taste in jewelry, and can be firmly regarded as a style icon of the 20^th century.

The Crown Jewels are often seen as Elizabeth’s most prized possessions, but are in fact generally regarded as part of the Royal Collection, and are not technically the property of the Queen herself. Elizabeth II does, however, possess a substantial jewelry collection of her own, the majority of which is stored under lock and key in a large vault deep below Buckingham Palace, and includes a huge number of elaborate and precious tiaras, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. This personal collection has an estimated value of over $60 million, with a particular highlight being a 352.50-carat spinel known as the Timur Ruby, which was originally presented to Queen Victoria by the East India Company.

Other famous items owned by Queen Elizabeth II include the Prince Albert Brooch - a giant sapphire which was given to Queen Victoria by Prince Albert the day before they married, and a series of large Cullinan diamonds.

What exactly is owned outright by Her Majesty, and what is part of the Royal Collection (and must be held in trust for her successors) can sometimes be a blurred issue. You can, however, learn more about this by visiting the website www.royalcollection.org.uk

Many of the older items have been in the Royal Family for generations, and have been taken apart and reset over the years to allow them to be worn at 21^st century functions. More information and pictures of items such as these can be viewed in the book ‘The Jewels of Queen Elizabeth’ by Leslie Field (1992), and it’s fair to say that the collection is spectacular, vast and outstanding!

As well as being famous for her acting and her eight marriages, Elizabeth is perhaps best known for her jewelry, with arguably her most famous pieces being the 33.19 carat Krupp Diamond and the 69.42 carat Taylor-Burton Diamond, which were both given to her by husband number five, Richard Burton. Liz now wears the latter as a necklace, after she decided it was a little on the large side for a ring. She also owns a large heart-shaped yellow diamond, which was also given to her as a gift by Richard.

As well as her diamonds, Liz owns many other gemstones. This includes an emerald brooch, necklace, earrings, bracelet and ring set, all again given to her by Richard Burton as engagement and wedding gifts. There were married on two separate occasions, however! Richard also gave her a giant, pear-shaped pearl known as ‘La Peregrina’, which weighs in at a whopping 50 carats, and was once owned by the Spanish Royal Family.

Another of Elizabeth’s husband’s, Michael Wilding (who she married in 1952), presented her with a glimmering ruby earring and necklace set.

Liz also designs her own items of jewelry, in conjunction with Italian jeweler Piranesi. The items are sold at Christie’s, as part of The Elizabeth Collection. She continues to collect top items of jewelry, and is a client of Shlomo Moussaieff, an Israel-born jewelry store owner who has made many millions of dollars selling fine items to the rich and famous.

Elizabeth Taylor’s love of jewelry was documented in her 2002 book My Love Affair with Jewelry, which also contains many photos of her fantastic collection.

Keep Your Gems Clean

Keeping your gems and items of jewelry clean is vital. Rings, in particular, can get dusty and dirty when worn a lot. The best way to clean transparent gemstones is to soak them in water, then use a soft brush and gently scrub behind the stone to remove dirt and grime.

Using an Ultrasonic Cleaner

An ultrasonic cleaner is a device that uses ultrasound and a cleaning solution to clean delicate items. Before using a special cleaning device such as this, you should consider the type of gem that you own. Generally speaking, rubies, diamonds and sapphires will be fine in these machines, but opaque gems (such as malachite and turquoise) can be damaged, especially if you use an ammonia solution to clean them with. Gemstones of this type are porous, meaning chemicals can get inside the stone and cloud or otherwise affect its color.

Take Hardness into Account

It is vital to take the type of gemstone into account when looking after it. Rings with softer stones set in them should be taken off before exercise, and even the toughest and most durable of gems can break or chip if knocked in the wrong place.

Store Items Correctly

Correct storage of your jewelry items is just as important as cleaning them properly. It is important to realize that the gemstones in your jewelry box will be harder than the metals, so in an ideal scenario you should store each item separately, to avoid them rubbing against eachother.

For this reason it is far better to use an appropriate container, such as a jewelry box, rather than any old container that you find lying around.  The best jewelry boxes have many separate compartments and are constructed from tarnish-free materials. You can also buy tarnish-free paper separately, and line your existing jewelry box with it.