Istanbul Night and Day from Z-ARTE.

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Spicy pork dumplings

Four years ago, when I arrived in Chengdu, capital of China’s Sichuan province, I was met at the airport by my friend Charlie.

Before we even arrived back at his apartment, he was taking me out for spicy pork dumplings.

It was love at first bite, and I quickly became accustomed to the pool of spicy oil that the dumplings are presented in.

When Charlie took me out to eat, I’d always ask about the dumplings, but he said they were more of a snack, like a hot dog in the USA, and we’d sound silly asking for them in regular restaurants.

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Mosquito netting on Koh Phi Phi (Thailand)

This post was written by me in partnership with Lloyds Pharmacy.

Contracting malaria remains one of the biggest travel fears of globetrotting backpackers.

A little over 4 years ago, before leaving on my trip around the world, I researched malaria prevention tips in an effort to further educate myself.

I’d taken a few different anti malaria tablets on short, 2-week vacations to Costa Rica and Belize/Guatemala, however I was preparing to embark on a 12+ month journey across multiple continents, including Africa.

Malaria prevention is a multi-step process.

Education

Before visiting any new country, do some quick online queries to determine the risk for malaria.

The United States’ Center for Disease Control (CDC) website are an excellent resource, and offer detailed information for every country, organized nicely in the form of charts and maps.

Additionally, as I did, you can make an appointment with your local travel clinic (or family doctor).

Remember, just because a country is known to have malaria doesn’t mean every region of that country has it too.

Often, malaria doesn’t exist in large urban areas, such as capital cities, or at higher altitudes.

The degree of risk can also vary greatly by season. Mosquitoes are more prevalent in the wet seasons, thus your risk of getting bitten will be higher at those times.

Preventing Mosquito Bites

Once you’ve arrived in an area known to have malaria, these are the common steps you can take to minimize your risk of being bitten:

• Stay inside at night, when the mosquitoes are most active. If you don’t have windows, make sure you’ve got screens. If you have neither, make sure you’re using a mosquito net over your bed or hammock.
• Wear protective clothing, such as long sleeve shirts, pants, socks and shoes.  Some brands of travel clothing are pre-treated with Permethrin, a chemical insect repellent.  Alternatively, you can also buy the chemical and treat clothes yourself.
• Use insect repellent, preferably containing DEET, on your exposed skin. Repellent is available in strengths as high as 100% DEET, however I personally feel more comfortable with lower concentrations (around 30%).

Anecdotally, it always seems as though one person amongst a group will get bitten more than the rest.

If you’re known to attract mosquitoes more than your friends, it’s even more important that you take protective measures seriously.

Medications to Prevent Malaria

[Disclaimer: I'm a backpacker, not a pharmacist. Consult a medical professional for assistance in deciding which medication is right for you.]

The third and final step to preventing malaria is to take a prophylaxis.  While there’s still no vaccine for malaria, there are several preventive options available that can reduce your risk of contracting the disease.

The medication you choose will depend on a variety of factors, including region you’re visiting, pre-existing conditions and/or other medications being taken, potential side effects, cost, and likelihood that you’ll comply with instructions for taking the medication.

Some medications need to be taken daily, while others are weekly.

• Chloroquine - taken weekly. Starts 1-2 weeks before travel, and continues for 4 weeks after you’ve left the risk area.
• Doxycycline – taken daily. Starts 2 days before entry into the affected region and continues for 30 days after you’ve left. This is the cheapest and most widely available option. It also has amongst the most benign side effects, including digestive problems and increased risk for sunburn.
• Malarone – taken daily. Starts 1-2 days before travel, and continues for 7 days after you’ve left the risk area. This is a more expensive drug than Doxycycline, and therefore better for shorter trips.
• Lariam – taken weekly. Potential side effects involve the nervous system, and include reports of extremely vivid (bad) dreams, and psychosis.

Once I hit the road, I found that many of my fears about malaria fell by the wayside.

There’s a worldwide effort to eradicate malaria, and large swaths of many countries have freed themselves of the disease.

Even traveling within those countries still at risk, many of the most popular tourist areas are now safe.

As long as you educate yourself, and take the necessary steps to protect yourself, fear of malaria should not be a reason in and of itself to keep you from exploring new destinations.

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Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

For all the wild, action-packed mega cities Southeast Asia is so famous for, there’s an equally opposite number of places that are quiet, nature-oriented, and extremely relaxing.

Here are 5 destinations I recently visited where relaxation is the local way of life.

1. Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

Waking up at 5 am is something you’ll love doing when you’re in Sangkhlaburi.

Why?

Because there’s nothing more enjoyable, or more relaxing, than beginning the day with a stroll over Thailand’s largest handmade wooden bridge.

After crossing the bridge, make sure to visit the Burmese market on the other side. The low key market includes lots of betel nut chewing vendors, and a number of delicious snacks.

Sangkhlaburi, in my opinion, is one of the most relaxing places to visit in Thailand. The lifestyle is laid back, no one seems to be in a hurry, and the scenery is extremely beautiful.

Yangshuo, China

2. Yangshuo, China

Although China would not normally be considered part of Southeast Asia, since Yangshuo is just north of Vietnam, I’m including it.

If the gorgeous scenery of Yangshuo isn’t enough to thrust your body into a state of immediate relaxation, sipping on a cold lotus nut beverage while reclining on a small Chinese chair in the middle of a lotus patch will surely do the trick.

Sometimes it’s not only sitting or laying down that’s relaxing, but also doing physical activity in a location that includes fresh air, unspoiled natural landscapes and is filled with sounds of nature instead of honks and smog.

Go on just a short bicycle ride from the center of Yangshuo, and you’ll be cycling down rice farm trails, taking dips in the clear Yulong River and enjoying tremendous views of the mountains.

4000 Islands

3. 4000 Islands, Laos

While at times the amount of backpacking tourists can be overwhelming, there are plenty of opportunities to sneak away from the crowds to discover the beautiful and relaxing side of the 4000 Islands in the south of Laos.

If lounging in a hammock strung on the balcony of your wooden bungalow overlooking the lazy Mekong River while reading a book with a cold Beer Laos in hand is your idea of a relaxing paradise, you’ll end up spending a lot of time at 4000 Islands!

If you happen to get an overdose of relaxation and want some adventure, be sure to take a hike, bike to the waterfall, or take a boat to see the Irrawaddy dolphins.

Lake Toba, Indonesia

4. Lake Toba, Indonesia

Encircled by sharp jagged mountains, Lake Toba is a deep volcanic lake on the lush green tropical mega-island of Sumatra, Indonesia.

To get there by local Indonesian transportation will hardly be relaxing, but as soon as the road dips into the cauldron and the glassy lake appears, your body will calm itself into a zen-like state of relaxation.

Stay in a local style Batak bungalow overlooking the lake, or pay a dollar more and you can get a hut where you can jump right out the window into the warm water of Lake Toba!

Batad, Philippines

5. Batad, Philippines

Of the many incredible and relaxing places to visit in the Philippines, it’s hard to beat chilling in the sleepy rice terrace village of Batad.

With over 116 man made terraces of rice that steeply creep up the side of the mountain, the beauty of the Batad rice terraces will blow your mind.

Staying in a local style hut at the base of the terraces is a sure recipe for relaxation and a way to escape the hassles of city life.

Jus a short 20 minute trek through the terraces, up a steep ridge and through some thick vegetation, is a booming waterfall that offers an opportunity to take a dip or to just sit back and listen to the sound of crashing water echoing off the sides of the mountain.

What other relaxing destinations have you visited in Southeast Asia?

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The following is a guest post from Adam Seper of BootsnAll.

Backpacking in Thailand (photo: David Lee)

We all travel differently. Some enjoy an all-inclusive resort with easy food and drink access. Some like going the B&B route.

Others have their favorite hotel chains that they always stay in. Many prefer staying in a dorm room in a hostel eating ramen and drinking the cheapest local beer.

No matter what your preference, there is no right or wrong way to travel. There’s only what you prefer.

At BootsnAll, we like to refer to ourselves as the One-Stop Indie Travel Guide. But what exactly does Indie Travel mean? What makes an indie traveler?

Over the past several months, we came together as a company and really tried to put a definition to it. We wanted to define what our priorities were as indie travelers, not as a way to portray our travel preference as best, but to make connections with others who feel the same way about travel that we do.

It all starts with our core values. As a company, we came up with several core values that drive the content we produce and the services we offer. Those four core values are:

• Embrace change
• Love learning
• Make meaningful connections
• Work & play with passion 

Not only do we do our jobs based on these four core values, but we all live our lives and travel by the same ideals. These core values are at the root of what we feel makes an indie traveler. But we are a small company, so we want to get the input of other travelers.

So we teamed up with travel writer Rolf Potts, a long time contributor to BootsnAll, and we created the Indie Travel Manifesto.

This is not meant to encourage everyone to travel like we do. We know that this only appeals to a certain sector of the travel world, so we hope to reach out to all the indie travelers out there and share this manifesto.

The spirit of this site, Go Backpacking, encompasses perfectly how we feel about indie travel. Dave gives you all the tools necessary to get out there and have an indie travel experience.

We want our fellow indie travelers to take action with the manifesto. We want you to be a part of it.

We’d love you to read it. Vote on it. Discuss it. Sign it. And share it.

There are 24 statements on the manifesto that we think defines what an indie traveler is.

Do you agree?

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Indian Pacific Train - Red Class

One of the most memorable adventures I have had in Australia until now was when I traversed the entire country by train.

This epic trip on the Indian Pacific train, named after the two oceans that the line connects, took me from Sydney all the way to the far reaches of the country — to the WA capital city of Perth.

For 3 nights, I gazed out the window at the changing scenery as we went past city suburbs, green desert from an unusual amount of rain, vast nothingness associated with the Nullarbor Plain, and ghost towns.

Each night, I was lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the rails, and each morning, I was awoken by the voice of the conductor telling us breakfast would be served in the dining car soon.

It was a journey of 2,698 miles (4,352 kilometers), with several stops to get out and stretch, and plenty of time for introspection.

But, how does one exactly prepare for such an epic train adventure in Australia?

Here are my personal tips for getting ready for the trip of a lifetime.

Red Daynighter Seats - through the window

Book Discount Tickets

Since we’re writing about this journey on a backpacking site, the majority of people reading this will most likely be going for the Red Daynighter seats when booking the trip.

These seats are more budget friendly, and instead of a private cabin, they provide big, comfy chairs that recline.

A one-way ticket in the Red Daynighter seats from Sydney to Perth runs just $759, but you can get a discount by using a backpacker, student or YHA card, bringing the total down to just $368, which is quite affordable.

Be sure to book in advance, as these seats are the busiest of all the sections.

Remember you're on a train, so pack lightly for limited space

Pack a Carry-on Bag

On the train, you are only allowed a carry-on sized bag. All other bags will have to be checked.

When packing your carry-on, be sure to include some flip-flops for the shower, a towel (unless traveling in Red Sleeper Cabin or higher class), a couple changes of clothes, sleeping masks or earplugs, and any entertainment (iPad, Kindle, books, playing cards, etc.).

There is a shared shower facility in the Red Daynighter section, which I suggest using daily to make yourself both feel nice, and please the passengers around you.

Just be sure to hold on to something at all times since you never know when you’ll hit a rough bump.

Dining Car in Red Class

Pack a Bag of Snacks

There is a dining car on the train, but you might find the trip getting quite pricey if you use it for all your meals.

The dining car when I rode included croissants, toasted sandwiches and eggs for breakfast, and full blown roast meals for dinners.

There is a steady supply of beverages, including alcohol, for sale.

Snacks and meal supplements, however, are strongly suggested. You can bring nuts and meusli, instant noodles, peanut butter and bread and other safe-keeping snacks for the journey.

The ability to replenish your stocks is possible when at one of the local stops (Adelaide, Broken Hill, and Kalgoorlie).

Morning scenery

Bring a Camera

I found the scenery to be some of the most peaceful and beautiful scenery in the world. The red dirt hits in stark contrast to the clear blue sky for most of the journey.

Sunsets and sunrises fill the sky with a rainbow of colors every morning and night.

Camels and kangaroos run a muck in random sections, and it is fun to play “spot the animal” with other passengers to pass the time.

In other words, you will not want to forget your camera. Not only will the scenery be photo worthy, but the whistle stops will give you time to explore new cities and towns.

Don’t worry about running down your battery. The dining car and Red Gum Lounge (worth the daily upgrade) contained several outlets that passengers used to recharge.

Red Gum Lounge - worth the daily upgrade fee

Get a Telstra SIM Card

Telstra is the network that provides the largest range of access in Australia, and I found this to be a blessing on my trip.

Sure, there were areas where the signal cut out completely for hours, but for 3 days, I found I was able to keep in touch with my boyfriend and get on the Internet just by having a Telstra SIM card in my phone.

I know that’s not the point of the train trip — to have Internet and connectivity — but for those that think this will make the trip easier, then I suggest picking up a new SIM before starting the journey.

Explore the old ghost town of Cook on a whistle stop tour

Choose Your Whistle Stop Tours

Along the way to Perth (or vice versa), the train will stop for short periods of time in Broken Hill, Adelaide, Cook and Kalgoorlie.

You have the option of signing up for train-sponsored whistle stop tours in each of these locations, so it is wise to have a read of the literature upon entering the train to know which ones might actually interest you.

Otherwise, you can prepare some whistle stop tours of your own.

Mentally prepare for relaxation and views like this

Mentally Prepare

Sitting on a train for 3 days is a big change from normal life, so it is best to get yourself mentally prepared for the trip.

Yes, you can walk around, move from your seat to the dining car (or upgrade to being able to sit in the Red Gum Lounge), and get off for whistle stop tours, but… you have no control over the trip at hand.

Putting yourself in “holiday mode” or “camping mode” right from the moment you step on board will help alleviate any anxious stress.

Riding the Indian Pacific train is a memorable Australia attraction, and if you’re thinking of doing this, I suggest following this list to prepare.

Have you ridden on the Indian Pacific before?  Share your best tips in the Comments below.

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Before boarding the bus which would take me from the airport into Kowloon, in the heart of Hong Kong, I grabbed a quick and easy dinner at Burger King

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Lost in Delhi from Myles Thompson.

I spent a few days in Delhi – mainly to attend the CMS Vatavaran Environmental Film Festival – but I also managed to nip out a couple of times to film some street life scenes, and to see the Taj Mahal in Agra (200 km away from Delhi).

Both Delhi and Agra are quite amazing. The food is mind-blowing, the music is brilliant, the temples are inspiring and the shops are incredible. The people I met were also – without exception – extremely kind, thoughtful and very philosophical about life.

One of the highlights was watching sufis sing devotional songs (known as qawwali) at Nizzamudin Dargah in Delhi. Unfortunately I only had a Zoom recorder – no camera, so no pictures. I’ll upload the audio to Soundcloud over the next few days.

I didn’t manage to get as much footage as I wanted to – but I’ve made a vow to return to India as soon as I can to get some more.

Why ‘Lost in Delhi’? Because the city is so hectic – I felt quite disorientated a lot of the time. Also when I was in Agra :)

This was shot on a hacked GH2 (Driftwood SeaQuake) with a Kipon adaptor and a Canon 24-105 L.

The music is Bedardi Raja (Grind Mix) by Sona Mohapatra

* Sufism is a mystical dimension of Islam

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A regular (non-frozen) butterbeer

“What’s butterbeer?” I asked my brother, as we  walked into the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios, Florida.

Turns out, as I quickly learned, it’s a cream soda-like concoction topped with a marshmallow head. It contains neither butter, nor beer.

While the fictional drink once only existed in the Harry Potter books, a real world version was developed to satiate the fans visiting the World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios.

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View from atop El Penol, a monolith in Antioquia, Colombia

For the first time in 10 years, I’m a man without a dream.

I came to this realization last month, which was also my 5-year blogiversary (blogging anniversary), and it has thrown me for a loop.

On any given day, for an entire decade, I could close my eyes and envision where I wanted to see myself in X years.

Now when I close my eyes, there’s nothing.

How did I get here? And more importantly, what next?

Both are questions I’ve been pondering lately.

Dream #1 – Take a ‘Round the World Trip

In March 2002, I was part of a massive layoff at CareerBuilder.com. This unceremonious termination became the catalyst for my decision to take a trip around the world.

For the following 5 1/2 years, I worked in the call center of a health insurance company. I found purpose in my work at the time, but always knew it was just a stepping stone toward making my travel dream a reality.

In November 2007, I submitted my resignation, enjoyed a few farewell happy hour drinks, and boarded an Air Tahiti Nui flight to French Polynesia.

The cool part about taking a trip around the world is how long it lasts. I felt lucky to be living my dream every day for 18 months.

Working from Huaraz, Peru

Dream #2 – Achieve Location Independence

By the time I ran out of money in July 2009, I’d already fallen in love with Medellin.

All I could think about was getting to the point where I could support myself from my blogs so I could go back.

As my RTW trip concluded, location independence became my new dream.

After 11 months of living with my parents (thanks again Mom and Dad!) working on the blogs, launching a new travel blogging community, and networking my butt off, I reached the point where I was ready to move back to Medellin.

My leap of faith paid off, and my monthly earnings continued to grow. I reached my goal of averaging $3,000 per month in 2010.

This was the figure I felt I needed to reach to be able to live just about anywhere in the world I wanted.

In 2011, I earned 20% more, which further solidified my ability to live and work wherever I want. My dream had been about ascertaining a certain lifestyle, not bucketloads of cash.

I left Colombia to begin seeing the rest of South America, starting with Ecuador and Peru. In March, I’ll be visiting Argentina and Chile for the first time with G Adventures.

When I was a kid, my dreams involved exotic cars, like this Lamborghini (Tampa Bay, FL)

Dream #3 – ?

The funny thing about achieving your dreams is how quickly your new reality can become normal.

You may envision where you want to be for years.

You daydream at work. You write about it. You fantasize.

And then when you finally get there, it (hopefully) is as awesome as you imagined. Yet, inevitably, that appreciation for what you’ve achieved starts to fade with time.

Perhaps it’s human nature. Been there, done that, what’s next?

I’m exactly where I want to be, and this is not to say I’m not grateful for that, but after 4 years of traveling and living freely, I’m ready for a new challenge.

Of course I want to continue traveling, living abroad, and blogging about it (that’s not something I see changing in the near future), but I also want to have a new dream to chase.

I want to have a grand vision again.  I want to see myself achieving something awesome when I close my eyes.

Now if I can just figure out what that is.

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The spiral staircase in the Salvador Dali Museum eventually fades into nothing as it approaches the roof. (Location: St. Petersburg, Florida)

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5 types of fresh breads

In 2011, Lima’s Astrid & Gastón was ranked #42 on a list of the world’s 50 best restaurants.

It was one of only three restaurants in Latin America to make the illustrious list, with the majority being located in Europe and the USA.

Even if I had been planning to travel in these regions, I knew such restaurants would likely be cost-prohibitive.

But since I was already on the verge of visiting Peru, where my US Dollar is worth more, the chance to dine at Astrid & Gastón immediately made my short list of things to do.

Toppings for the bread: regular butter, melted butter, and a chimichurri sauce

Peruvian cuisine is currently enjoying its time in the limelight, the benefactor of positive press in publications from Food & Wine to The New York Times, and the The Wall Street Journal.

Chef Gastón Acurio is the leader of this movement to bring Peruvian food to the forefront, so what better place to explore this new world then his flagship restaurant.

By the time I reached Lima, I’d already been in Peru for a month, having zig-zagged my way down the country trying to enjoy both the mountains and the coast.

Along the way, I’d slowly begun to discover common dishes such as cebiche and causa.

I then spent several weeks in Lima, both before and after my trip to Cusco and Machu Picchu.

I dined at several of Gastón Acurio’s other restaurants, including Panchita and Tanta.

I continued to literally eat all around Astrid & Gastón, even though it was just a few blocks from the apartment I was renting.

I knew I wanted to have the 11-course tasting menu (170 Soles or $63), which according to the website, would require 3 hours of my time.

I was both excited by the food I’d get to try, and petrified of being bored out of my gourd eating alone for so long.

Maracuya Sour

The Restaurant

The day before I was due to fly back to Florida for Christmas, I made a determined walk over to Astrid & Gastón at 12:30 pm, just as the restaurant was opening for lunch.

Located on a non-descript side street a few blocks from Avenida Larco and Parque Kennedy, a doorman standing outside welcomed me in, and the adventure began.

I was greeted by a cheerful woman standing behind a large reception desk. It felt more like I was walking into a home than a restaurant.

I asked if the tasting menu was available, she said yes, and I was then ushered to a table directly in front of the kitchen. It appeared as though I was one of the first diners to be seated that afternoon.

In addition to the main room, which featured a view into the busy kitchen, there was a smaller, more private wine room, and a bar area which would be perfect for sampling cocktails and finger food.

View of the kitchen; I was seated at the table seen in the left corner.

The Food

I cracked open the oversized menu, and flipped through the options, even though I already knew what I was going to order.

Foie gras, duck, tuna, sea urchin, cuy.

And those were just the appetizers.

An interesting note featured prominently above the first page, indicating that as part of the dining experience, for 14 Soles ($5) you’d receive fresh breads and 3 sauces, a tray with 3 appetizers, and a box of 10 sweets at the end.

[Though I didn't say anything, I was soon presented with the breads, so these extras are provided, unless you state otherwise.]

To celebrate the dining experience, I ordered a maracuya sour, which I enjoyed much more than the pisco sours I’d tried up until then.

Sea snail from Arequipa with broth, seaweed, and foam of a tuber grown in the Andes

I was immediately challenged by the first plate, sea snail. I liked the presentation, but I was unsure how to get the meat out of the shell.

Thankfully, when I poked my fork inside, the snail slipped out with great ease.

The snail meat itself lacked flavor, and I found it rather tough to chew, however the overall dish was saved for me by the rich brown broth.

Tubers with shredded almonds, served with mustard sauce

A closer look at the presentation of the tubers

Next, I was presented with a wooden lacquer box. Inside, Andean tubers, herbs, and fresh flowers were presented on a bed of shredded almonds.

I LOVED the presentation. Colorful, playful, fun. But there’s no getting around the fact that the tubers look like turds.

Not only that, they were incredibly difficult to cut with the regular knife I was using.

A serrated steak knife should’ve been offered, unless the tubers were that tough because they were either under or overcooked.

Again, I appreciated this dish more for the novelty factor and presentation than the actual flavors. The mustard sauce was appreciated.

Lobster with mashed potatoes, foam, and capers

The lobster dish was a welcome change. Lots of flavor with a sophisticated presentation.

This was one of my favorites, but I can’t explain exactly why.

Cuy (guinea pig) taco

The cuy taco was a fun way to pay homage to the all-important guinea pig, which I tried twice in Ecuador.

I rolled up the little taco, and it was gone in a few bites.

Spicy, crunchy, delicious.

Chicken liver with corn and heart of palm

Course #5 was a little bit of chicken liver mixed with corn. Peruvians love their big white corn kernels, but I prefer the yellow corn I grew up on in the USA.

Still, in small doses as was presented here, it works fine for me. I’m a fan of the occasional foie gras (duck liver), however this was the first time I’d eaten chicken liver.

It was cooked perfectly, melting in my mouth.

White fish in ojo de tigre (cebiche sauce) with corriander and lakeweed

In dish #6, presentation once again plays a key role.

Ojo de tigre is the term for the seafood juices of cebiche, and in this case, the cebiche was presented with a rich and creamy ojo de tigre.

Like the liver before it, the white fish melted in my mouth.

Cebiche (fish, scallop, octopus, sea snail) with ojo de tigre, and 3 shots of peper sauce

Dish #7 was the main event for cebiche lovers, featuring fish, scallops, octopus, and another sea snail. It was easily the most colorful dish as well.

Three shot glasses of pepper sauce were also presented, and if I understood the instructions  properly, I was to take the shooters after finishing the cebiche.

Cebiche in Peru is typically spicy, so I was already feeling the heat after eating the seafood.

I then started taking the very flavorful shots of pepper sauce until my mouth was on fire. I couldn’t finish them.

By this point, two hours into lunch, I was starting to feel full, and sleepy. Part of me wanted to tap out, and go home so I could lie down.

But I was in this for the long run, and besides, I couldn’t leave before the desserts arrived.

Lamb soup with potatoes

Time for the protein dishes.

Perfectly cooked lamb, in a light and yummy broth.

Wagyu beef with raspberry sauce, and 3 types of potatoes

Dish #9 was another one of my favorites from the lunch, on account of the sweet raspberry sauce and way in which three different varieties of potatoes were incorporated.

Cannelloni with aji (pepper) ice cream

When it comes to desserts, I’m a simple guy.

A slice of decadent chocolate cake, or rich chocolate mousse, and I’m happy.

Key word being chocolate.

The highlight of the first dessert, course #10, was the spicy aji ice cream. To the right of it was a small square of apple crumble.

Bananas

The 11th and final dish was a dessert incorporating bananas and vanilla ice cream.

There’s more to it than that, as you can tell from the sugar-based shell that contains something else, but I couldn’t keep up with the waiter’s explanations by that point.

Bite size sweets: macaroons, chocolate truffles and more

And just when I thought I’d crossed the finish line, I was presented with a box of 10 sweets, just as the note on the menu had promised.

Chocolate truffles. Bite-sized macaroons, and another sweet I didn’t try.

The nails of sugar in my coffin.

The Service

Overall, the service was excellent, as you’d expect at one of Peru’s, and the world’s, best restaurants.

I appreciated that they sat me at a prominent table right by the front of the kitchen. Being exposed to an open kitchen is one way to keep yourself occupied when eating alone.

While it felt like things got off to a little of a slow start in the beginning, dishes were soon coming out at a consistent pace, and the whole lunch lasted three hours as expected.

At one point, a Peruvian couple with a baby sat down at the table next to me.

The mother was holding the sleeping baby in her chair, when their waiter brought over another, and created a little bed out of two empty chairs.

He put a napkin down on the chairs, and placed another on top of the baby like a blanket. It was so cute, I wanted to take a picture.

The Atmosphere

As more and more diners arrived, the room filled with chatter.

The background music was just loud enough for me to identify a favorite song, Kothbiro by Ayub Ogada, which was featured in The Constant Gardener.

Cost

The final bill for the 11-course tasting menu, including cocktail, tax, and tip was $95. A real deal by Western standards.

Final Thoughts

The menu challenged me. I didn’t like every course, but I don’t think that’s the point. If it were, I’d have ordered a single entree instead.

The lobster, cuy and lamb were highlights, while I won’t be bothered if I never see another Andean tuber again.

Spending an afternoon exploring the ingredients of Peruvian cuisine at Astrid & Gastón, from the common to the exotic, was a real pleasure.

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Astrid & Gastón:  Calle Cantuarias 175, Miraflores, Lima, Peru. Lunch is served from 12:30 pm – 3:30 pm. Dinner is served from 7:45 pm – 11:45 pm. Closed on Sundays.

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On a clear day, you can see several Himalayan peaks from the city of Pokhara

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Video Montage: Urban Tranquility – Abu Dhabi, UAE (Canon EOS 7D) from mungkey.

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As I was looking around Cusco for a place to stay, I spotted this alpaca walking around freely

A is for Alpaca. The most versatile, delicious, and nutritious creature in Peru.

I became enamored with these soft and friendly, llama-like creatures during my stay in Cusco.

For thousands of years, alpacas have been raised in Peru for two primary purposes: fiber and meat.

Alpaca Fibers

Alpaca fiber is used for knitting blankets and clothes.

The finest fibers are referred to as baby alpaca, which come from the back of the animal. The term has nothing to do with the age of the alpaca.

Baby alpaca is akin to other luxury fibers, such as cashmere and pashmina (from goats). Very few visitors leave Cusco, let alone Peru, without buying either an alpaca scarf or sweater as a souvenir.

Alpaca scarves, gloves, sweaters, and hats are widely available in shops around the country, however just because an item is labeled as baby alpaca doesn’t mean it’s woven of 100% baby alpaca fibers.

In fact, on one scarf I checked, these fine fibers only made up 15% of the garment.

If you’re on a budget, you’ll be able to pick up hats and gloves for about $3 each, a scarf for $5, and a sweater for $10 (depending on your bargaining skills).

If you’re willing to pay Western prices, step into a boutique store like Kuna and pick up a 100% baby alpaca scarf for about $45. You’ll feel the difference.

Alpaca Mignon a la Parisienne -- filet of alpaca edged with bacon in a white wine mushroom sauce, and baked potato

Alpaca Meat

Alpacas would be just another cute animal like llamas and goats, except that they also happen to be delicious.

During my second night in Cusco, I noticed a sign outside the Macondo Restaurant advertising alpaca. I thought this restaurant was offering something unique, as it was the first time I’d seen the animal on a menu.

Out of curiosity, I stepped inside the artsy place and ordered their most popular dish, the Alpaca Mignon a la Parisienne.

I had no idea what to expect, and could barely see my food in the dimly lit restaurant, but it tasted wonderful.

The creamy white wine saue may have been providing all the flavor, but I could tell the meat was lean, and I’d be trying it again.

Rosemary Grilled Alpaca in an anticuchera suace with a creamy mushroom sauce and aji amarillo quinotto

The next day, as I began eating at more restaurants, I noticed alpaca was on almost every menu in some shape or form.

My infatuation with the animal only increased with each new preparation.

Alpaca with red wine sauce.

Rosemary grilled alpaca.

In Cusco, the possibilities were endless, and I made the most of them.

Have you tried alpaca?  What’d you think?

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Durian, a fruit notorious for its strong smell, for sale in Singapore

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Near Sydney Opera House in 2009

In March, Sydney will be my home for 3 years.

Three years is a very long time for a person like myself to call one place their home, but really I’m beginning to feel as if the true meaning of “home” will never be applied to my life in Australia.

As stated in my introductory post, I met my wonderful Australian boyfriend while traveling in the Baltics back in 2008.

Because of him, I decided to try my hand at a working holiday in the land down under and see where the relationship went.

Obviously, the relationship has gone well, and we are now tied together with the defacto partner visa which allows me to stay in this gorgeous country to live, work and travel freely.

A beach near Sydney on the Bondi to Bronte walk

Australia isn’t called the “lucky country” for nothing. The people and the nature can’t be beat! Still, visiting a place and planning to call the place home are two very different things.

Although my situation was more play it by ear and see what happens, there have been a number of things that have really caught me off guard.

Perhaps, knowing some of these things in advance could have influenced my decision to come in the first place.

Ok… definitely not. I was too focused on chasing love to really care about anything else, but perhaps knowing some of these things could have just helped to lessen the shock after arriving.

1. Australia will be an expensive place to live

When I was younger and planning where I wanted to go for university, California was at the top of my list.

However, after researching into the fees and the cost of living for the places I wanted to attend, the idea quickly got crossed off the list.

Although I hated Midwestern Winters, the fact of the matter is that you pay good money to live in mild and warm climates. The same goes for Australia.

In my book, you pay for nice weather, and even if it is not the case, you do pay to live in Australia.

Luckily, the minimum wage is quite high, and hourly wages are representative of the higher cost of living.

Just be aware that even then, the money can go quickly, especially if planning to travel in the country.

Christmas in Australia takes place in the Summer

2. Christmas will never feel like Christmas

I’ve now had the pleasure of participating in 3 Christmas holidays in Australia. Then why is it that I don’t feel like I’ve had a Christmas since about 2007?

Because Christmas down under is just not the same. Yeah, sure, I despise Winter weather and prefer to be living in a warmer climate, but where’s the holiday build up?

Where are the cold nights drinking hot cocoa while watching Christmas movies playing on TV?

Instead, the big day falls right smack in the Aussie Summer, so forget your red wine and traditional roast dinners — it’s too hot!

Aussies and tourists (and even Santa) head down to the beach for a relaxing day in the sun, which is not a bad thing, but when it is all said and done, you kind of wonder where Christmas actually went.

3. Visiting home in America will become more of an ordeal.

For me, it was easy to think that home is only a flight (or two) away, but the price of flights coming from Australia to the USA, as well as the length, have made it more of an ordeal than I initially expected.

Maybe the problem is more of a problem for individuals with wanderlust, as I’m constantly torn between the idea of spending the $1,500 to fly to Illinois, or to spend that money, or way less, on a trip to somewhere more exotic.

I do love my family and miss seeing them at times, but booking that rather pricey ticket home when the inner travel demon inside me is spouting off lists of destinations I could be traveling to instead makes it very hard.

Beach lounging -- an integral part of the Aussie culture

4. There will be culture shock

Australians speak English, so culture shock won’t exist, right? Wrong. Australians have a culture all their own — albeit subtle in differences, but still something worth mentioning.

One of the main attributes to the culture is also one I despise: the laid-back attitude. For my anxious little mind, I love the idea of not being in a rush to do things, having loads of holiday time and just being able to brush stuff off my shoulder.

On the other hand, when you need something done — like in the evening, on the weekend or during the holidays — you can forget about it.

And, of course, there are other bits of culture shock, like adjusting to holidays in the opposite seasons (and how locals prepare and celebrate), deciphering the way people talk (both in word choice and the way they talk to each other) and dealing with the popular Aussie meet-and-greet of cheek-kissing (I like my personal space).

All of these examples are small, yet add up to be a point on this list since prolonged exposure can put emphasis on even minor details.

5. Taxes will become complicated

I can’t talk for other expats not from America, but taxes are a complete pain.

If you continue to keep your citizenship, you will have to file taxes in the USA forever, claiming income being made overseas and dealing with special rules and regulations (that hopefully keep you from having to pay).

I’m no accountant, and I don’t want to steer anyone wrong, but you will want the advice of a trained individual so you don’t get burned down the road.

[From the Editor: If you spend 330+ days per year outside the USA, check out the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion]

These are just five of the things I wish I’d known before becoming an expat in Australia – some of which can be applied to expats in other locations around the world.

Living in Australia is a dream for me; that doesn’t mean it can’t be difficult at times.

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Melbourne, Australia

Every year, Melbourne plays host to the Australian Open tennis tournament.

In 2008, I arrived just in time to buy a grounds pass so I could watch the men’s final from a jumbo screen right outside Rod Laver Arena.

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Amphawa Floating Market

A floating market is a market that is located next to a body of water and vendors sell things directly out of their boats.

Though some of the main waterways have since been filled in to make way for roads, Bangkok was once known as the Venice of Asia due to its extensive network of canals.

Many people got around by boat, or even went to the market to sell their goods directly from their boat.

What was once a normal way of life, floating markets throughout Bangkok have now turned into more of a novelty form of entertainment.

Floating markets are located throughout Bangkok and the surrounding provinces, and they are extremely popular to visit on the weekends for both locals and foreigners.

Nowadays the biggest attraction to a floating market in Thailand is the food that is cooked and served directly from a boat floating in the canal.

The markets also offer plenty of random trinket shopping and are just good places to walk around. If you wish, you almost always have the option of navigating the market on a personal boat tour as well.

Visiting a floating market on the weekend has become of the most popular things to do in Thailand. Here are 5 markets worth your time:

1. Amphawa (pictured above)

Easily the most popular market with Thai locals, Amphawa is an entire neighborhood community that turns into a Disneyland-like floating market on the weekends.

Tons of people escape Bangkok for the day and browse around the little stores and dine on the delicious food that is served from boats.

I was truly impressed by the parking lot of boats on the canal and the way they served food rapidly to all the demanding orders!

Don’t miss out on the grilled squid and the roasted shrimp!

Damnoen Sduak Floating Market

2. Damnoen Saduak

Located about 1.5 hours from Bangkok is the most popular tourist floating market in Thailand known as Damnoen Saduak. Over the weekend, hordes of foreigners flood the market on organized tours.

Due to the massive crowds, and the over abundance of souvenirs, this is one of my least favorite floating markets.

However, if you hop in a canal boat, you can still manage to escape most of the traffic and reach some beautiful tree covered canal areas.

Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market

3. Khlong Lat Mayom

Located in southern Bangkok, Khlong Lat Mayom is probably one of my favorite market’s in Bangkok.

It’s like a garden oasis, full of green trees, cool shade, and it is in a much more relaxed environment than the two mentioned above.

Though there are plenty of shops and countless options for food, the market remains calm and low-key.

It’s a great place to unwind, and partake in a lovely meal on the edge of the canal.

Taling Chan Floating Market

4. Taling Chan

Taling Chan is famous for its fresh selection of roasted seafood.

If you show up on Saturday morning, you’ll see a bunch of tables filled with people devouring crab legs, huge roasted prawns and the all famous roasted snake head fish.

Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market

5. Bang Nam Phueng

Since floating markets are so popular throughout Bangkok, there are a few that have been recently set up to cater to the rising demand of people looking for leisure on the weekends.

Bang Nam Phueng is located in an area of Bangkok known as Phra Pradaeng.

It is a relatively new market that is yet another paradise for food lovers, and a relaxing place to walk around, take a boat, or just sit and enjoy the lush ambiance.

When you visit Bangkok be sure to visit a floating market for the day!  

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Churros for sale in Parque Kennedy - Lima, Peru

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Earth | Time Lapse View from Space, Fly Over | NASA, ISS from Michael König.

Time lapse sequences of photographs taken by the crew of expeditions 28 & 29 onboard the International Space Station from August to October, 2011, who to my knowledge shot these pictures at an altitude of around 350 km.

All credit goes to them. HD, refurbished, smoothed, retimed, denoised, deflickered, cut, etc.

All in all I tried to keep the looks of the material as original as possible, avoided adjusting the colors and the like, since in my opinion the original footage itself already has an almost surreal and aestethical visual nature.

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Welcome to Brisbane, where the spiders are gigantic

I knew Australia would be full of highly poisonous creepy crawlies, but I didn’t expect to run into one of the biggest spiders of my life in the window of a building in downtown Brisbane (on my first full day in the country no less).

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Prison Island

What is now a tiny, beautiful tropical island off the coast of Zanzibar, was once not a pleasant place to be at all.

At first, Changuu Island (known more commonly as Prison Island) was the location where slaves were detained and held until they were transported to places in the Middle East or Europe.

After that, the island was transformed into a quarantine center where people with deadly diseases were left, so they wouldn’t spread their illnesses with the healthy.

Today, the island is a nature reserve, and a beautiful place to spend the day when you visit Stone Town, Zanzibar.

Zanzibar Island

Getting to the island takes about 30 minutes by motor boat, and should cost around $30 – $40 per boat (there and back), each of which can accommodate up to 10 people.

If you don’t want to deal with the boat owners themselves, or if you don’t have 10 people to rent the entire boat, you can easily book a day trip to Prison Island at one of the many tourist offices in the central part of Stone Town – just be sure to negotiate a deal before you go.

The Indian Ocean can be quite choppy, so be forewarned if you become easily seasick.

Once you arrive in the shallower waters of the island, the water becomes calm and the color turns to that beautiful shade of turquoise blue.

Taking a cool dip and snorkeling around the island is one of the activities that the island is famous for.

When I visited, the water wasn’t overly clear, so I wasn’t able to see much while snorkeling, but the swimming was fantastic.

Giant Tortoises

A gift from the Seychelles, on one side of the island is a colony of giant tortoises – one of the highlights of Prison Island these days.

Some of them are literally giants, creeping around silently, while munching everything green in sight.

Though it is not permitted to ride them anymore (as it was a few years ago), you can still feed them and touch them.

They really do look and act just like dinosaurs.

The Old Prison

About a 5 minute walk away are the former ruins that once functioned as the prison.

The structure has aged and weathered into an interesting combination of concrete and overgrown vegetation that also offers a lovely view of the water below.

Prison Island Bridge

Another iconic symbol of Zanzibar’s Prison Island is the rickety wooden bridge that stretches from dry land to about 50 meters into the water.

With every wave, the bridge shakes a little, and apart from being a decent place for locals to go fishing, it doesn’t serve much other purpose.

Most people choose to just visit Prison Island for a day trip on their busy schedules of Zanzibar, but if you choose to spend the night on the island, there is one pricey private island resort where you can stay.

In my opinion, it’s not worth it to stay on Prison Island as there are more beautiful beaches around Zanzibar, but the beauty of the island, along with its history (and the tortoise colony) is definitely worth a day trip from Stone Town.

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Travel is cheap in Kyrgyzstan

Ever dream of wandering through Kyrgyzstan, eating laghman noodles for dinner and drinking kumiz with the nomadic locals while sleeping in a yurt?

Most people haven’t. Actually, the predominant response I get when I mention to anyone that I have spent time in the country is the fact that they have never even heard of it (if they don’t ask, “Isn’t that where Borat is from?” first).

For me, however, after spending a summer there in 2008, returning for a month in 2011, and planning another return in 2012, I can tell you that Kyrgyzstan — a small country composed of 94% mountains and tucked away in the middle of Central Asia — is a travel destination that the world will soon start to recognize.

Why? I’m so glad you asked:

1. Please the Money Belt

In other words: Kyrgyzstan is a budget-friendly destination, so you won’t find yourself taking out extravagant amounts of money for your travels.

I will say that the price of travel in this country has increased over the past three years, but I still found my 4 weeks this past November to be a complete bargain — once you get there of course.

Flights can be the real downer when it comes to price. Your best bet is to add the trip onto a larger journey, or stay put in Kyrgyzstan for as long as possible to get the most bang for your buck.

The Kyrgyz countryside

2. Step into Kyrgyzstan’s Unknown

The fun about visiting Kyrgyzstan would be the feeling of stepping into the unknown.

Unlike places like Australia and Thailand that have been heavily traveled and heavily documented in travel magazines and travel blogs, there is still the feeling of visiting a place that has been fairly untouched by the Western world.

One of Bishkek's large shopping centers, Tash Rabat

3. See History in the Making

While in the shadow of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan was pretty much a mystery to the rest of the world, and since the Soviet Union’s fall, it has continued to remain that way until more recent years.

Just in the time since my first visit to the country in 2008, I have seen changes in the capital city of Bishkek. The city has been modernizing at a rapid rate while the cost of living and standard of living has increased.

In addition, the politics is especially interesting as they have had some riots in the past, ousting a long-term leader and are now adjusting to a newly elected leader.

Delcious laghman

4. Enjoy a Mouth-Watering Mix of Food

As someone who would classify herself as a picky eater, I find the food in Kyrgyzstan to be a delightful mix.

With influences from Russia, Turkey and Asia, you can choose just about any style of food to please the taste buds.

Choose from Korean BBQ, Kyrgyz laghman, Turkish pide or Russian borscht when heading out to dinner in Bishkek.

After entering, get around with ease using a marshrutka

5. Enter with Ease

The citizens of several countries of the Western world can get a month-long visa to Kyrgyzstan on arrival at the Manas International Airport — without any letter of invitation.

Considering the hoops many have to jump through to go to Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and even Kazakhstan, this ease of entry makes visiting Kyrgyzstan much more appealing.

In fact, many people choose to enter Kyrgyzstan and hang around for a bit as they get their other Central Asian visas in order.

Sleep in a yurt on Lake Issyk-Kul

6. Spend the Night in a Yurt

Like Mongolia, the Kyrgyz people are originally a nomadic bunch, wandering from place to place, herding sheep and living in a yurt (like a ger).

For an authentic experience, you can spend a night (or nights) sleeping in a yurt in the Kyrgyz countryside. CBT (Community Based Tourism) is a company that can help set up your stays and get your meals sorted when doing so.

I highly recommend a yurt stay, especially since you’ll have access to some of the best night sky views while in the country.

A sign in Cyrillic

7. Learn Russian for Cheap in Bishkek

I have partaken in Russian language lessons twice in Kyrgyzstan for two main reasons: 1) I want to learn Russian, and 2) it is dirt cheap.

Kyrgyzstan is a bilingual country, officially speaking both Russian and Kyrgyz (although many of the village-residing Kyrgyz will solely speak Kyrgyz).

At my go-to language school in Bishkek, you can get one-on-one Russian language lessons at around $4 per hour.

Now I don’t know about you, but I am definitely wishing I were back in Kyrgyzstan right about now!

Ever been?

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Tuk-tuk drivers love to pimp out their rides. I spotted this colorful one parked on the streets of Vientiane, Laos

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Antarctica – Below Zero from Alex.Be.

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A modern skyscraper reflects the world around it on Hong Kong Island

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Siwa Oasis

One of the absolute coolest things to do in Egypt is visit an oasis, and one of the most easily accessible is the Siwa Oasis.

To get there you either have to drive yourself, or take an eight hour bus ride from Alexandria.

The buses departs at night and when you wake up, you are in a completely different world – a quiet place with fresh air in the middle of nowhere.

The feeling of life on the oasis really felt like I was on a tiny private island and even the people were laid back and relaxed just as anyone would be on any Caribbean or Asian island.

I felt as though I could retire, riding around on a donkey cart and munching dates while lounging about in my awesomely comfortable Egyptian jellabiya and puffing on fruity sheesha.

It was fantastic!

Riding around Siwa Oasis

There are a number of modes of transportation to get around Siwa Oasis: donkey cart, bicycle, motorcycle and foot.

I chose the donkey cart!

Temple of the Oracle of Amun

Just like throughout the rest of Egypt, the city of Siwa was also anciently inhabited and is home to a number of historical ruins that include the Temple of the Oracle of Amun and the last standing wall of the Temple of Umm Ubayda.

The ruins were extremely interesting to see, as were the Egyptian hieroglyphics on the walls, and a number of tombs in the area.

Ruins of Shali

In the main part of Siwa town is the impressive mud city ruins of Shali.

Waking up early in the morning and hiking to the top viewpoint of the ancient city was incredible.

Most of the mud city itself is not functionally used today, but there are a few shops, restaurants and a fancy boutique hotel that are built and blend right into the mud city.

Desert Safari

An overnight desert safari was the highlight of my visit to Siwa.

After loading up the 4 wheel drive Toyota Land Cruisers we headed out into the real desert and the surrounding Egyptian sea of sand.

The dunes and the barren bone dry landscapes were impressive.

We stopped at one area in the middle of absolute nowhere, where the ground was filled with star-etched seashells originating from the time when the area was underwater.

Water in the Desert

After deflating the truck’s tires to cater to the soft sand, our driver zoomed through the never-ending dunes at high speeds for a thrilling roller coaster ride.

Eventually we arrived at a seemingly impossible lake in the middle of the desert – an icy cold reservoir of water in the middle of sand.

Though it was way too cold, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to take a dip in the Sahara.

Evening Camp in the Desert

When evening arrived, we drove to our tented Bedouin style camp to enjoy dinner and eventually sleep for the night.

We were served an excellent meal of grilled meat, rice and Arabic bread, and then spent the remaining hours of the night sitting around a campfire and dancing to the rhythmic beats of local Siwan instruments that pierced the silence of the desert.

Sunset Point

Sunsets in the desert are almost always impressive, and they were no different in Siwa.

Every evening the sun became a ball of fire and with it came every shade of orange, yellow and red imaginable.

Sunset Point, about 5 kilometers from the central town of Siwa, is one of the most spectacular viewpoints as the colors reflect off the swampy lake.

Of all the fun attractions in Eygpt, visiting the Siwa Oasis was one of my most memorable.

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Girls on the road.

You’ve just finished trekking in Nepal for a week or riding trains across Russia for two.

Your wardrobe has consisted of heavy Keen hikers, cargo pants and the same fleece pullover the entire trip — now the attire in every photo taken thus far.

In the short-term, this setup puts little strain on the female psyche, but after a while, a girl can start to feel a little drab and unfeminine.

When times like those arise, it only takes one small action to get perked up and feel like a cute girl again, which can do wonders for an otherwise stale mood.

1. Apply Nail Polish

Apply nail polish

A bottle of nail polish takes up virtually no space in a backpack, yet can seriously help you feel all sparkly and pretty in a matter of minutes.

I like to use toe nail polish in locations where I’m wearing sandals and doing lots of walking, as it helps to cover up any dirt that might get trapped before the next shower.

Plus, the act of taking off and applying a fresh coat can be a relaxing, meditative experience in itself.

An alternative: Some women may prefer to pack a simple nail kit as taking the time to clean and file nails is also therapeutic.

2. Tie on a Scarf

A scarf is my number one quick and easy feminine accessory.

The right scarf can take a normal outfit and add pizazz, turning a simple black t-shirt and pants into an outfit ready for a night out. A scarf around the neck also puts the focus on the face, bringing out feminine features.

An alternative: A scarf can act as a substitute for several items, such as a belt, a towel or a headband, in a pinch.

3. Dab on Perfume

A quick splash of sweet-smelling perfume is great for feeling feminine. Smelling good makes us feel fresh and confident immediately.

An alternative: Baby powder can serve many purposes while traveling. Direct a couple of squirts in walking shoes or socks and do a quick rub-down for an overall fresh smell.

4. Put on Jewelry

Add a few bold pieces of jewelry to your travel wardrobe

Although I don’t recommend carrying around handfuls of gold jewelry in your backpacks (or having it on your person), I do think that a few key pieces of fun jewelry are necessary to keep you looking and feeling cute on the road.

Just like a scarf, putting on a flashy pair of earrings or a bold necklace makes your “blah” outfits fit for a lunch on the marina.

An alternative: Accessorize in other ways. If you just bought a cute bag at the markets, make that your flashy accessory, for example.

5. Apply a Tinted Lip Gloss

I find that the smallest additions can have the biggest effect on feeling feminine. One of my favorite additions is a simple tinted lip gloss, even one with a fruity flavor.

An alternative: You might prefer the simple make-up act of applying mascara or curling your eyelashes. Find out the easiest task that makes you feel/look good and plan for that on the road.

6. Change Up Your Hair

If your hair has been laying flat, or been tied back day after day, a new ‘do’ can make a difference in the way you look, the way you look at yourself and the way you feel.

Pack a couple of hair pins and add some twists for fun — it’s a great way to make the most of greasy hair.

An alternative: A headband also helps to take the focus off of greasy hair.

7. Use Dry Shampoo

Spray on some dry shampoo to take away the greasy look.

On those days when you can’t get to a shower, dry shampoo can help take away the greasy look of your hair.

Hair generally tends to be greasier on the top of the scalp, while the rest of the hair can seem clean. Applying dry shampoo in key spots of the hair can be treat when washing the hair isn’t an option.

An alternative: An alternative for lighter-haired girls is to dab on a little bit of talcum powder to the greasy sections of the hair and brush through.

8. Use a Face Wipe for a Quick “Bath” and Freshener

When I’ve been on a plane for a day or can’t get to a shower quick enough, my go-to substitution is to use one of those wet wipe facial cloths as a “bath in a bag”.

I pop into a restroom and do a quick wipe-down, and magically feel like a human being again.

An alternative: A rub-down of talcum powder can quickly remove the sticky feeling from your body while making you smell nice.

9. Toss on a Skirt

A skirt screams feminine, so if you have one packed, toss it on! Dressing feminine doesn’t only have to happen when you’re going out on the town.

Feeling good about the way you look lifts spirits on gloomy days or days when you’re feeling homesick or down.

An alternative: Kick off your heavy walking shoes and toss on your sandals or a pair of cute ballet flats.

10. Try on Stylish Clothes at Famous Shops

Try on stylish clothes for the afternoon

For those that don’t have room to pack super-feminine clothes, take the time to head to famous shopping malls and stores for some fitting sessions.

Trying on nice clothes doesn’t mean that you have to buy them, and when you see yourself in a mirror looking flashy in trendy clothing, then you’ll quickly feel like a woman again.

Be sure to also take photos while in the changing room to remember the fun!

An alternative: Participate in a clothes swap at your hostel. Mix and match your pieces with other traveling females for a fun and new look.

11. Ask a Guy Out

Fancy a bloke in your hostel? Spot a hot local guy at the bar or club? Asking a guy out on a date will make you excited and possibly get you doing most of the other feminine-feeling tasks on this list. Be adventurous!

An alternative: If you’re traveling with your significant other, plan a date night for which you need to get dressed up.

This list is full of ways that you can start to feel feminine again while traveling in just a few short minutes.

If you want to go all out, then some other options for getting back in touch with your woman side can include:

• Going to a spa
• Getting a relaxing massage
• Getting your hair cut, or a body wax

If you have access to an actual bath tub, a long soak can have rejuvenating results.

As a backpacker, these sorts of tasks will probably not need to be done very often, but there are those days — and I think other female travelers can agree — where you get tired, flustered and feel super gross from wearing your dirty shirt for a third time and just need to take a moment to feel pretty and clean.

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Photo credit: 1 – philliecasablanca; 2 – quinnanya; 3 – teducation; 4 – quinnanya; 5 – idhren.

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Military briefing by North Korean soldier at the DMZ.

This is a guest post by Michael Milne.

The Demilitarized Zone separating North and South Korea has been called “the most dangerous place on Earth.”

Times have changed and that title could more properly be claimed by other places, Baghdad or Kabul come to mind.

But the DMZ would still make anyone’s top five; on either side of the border sits the largest concentration of soldiers and weapons on the planet.

We left our Pyongyang hotel early for the 120 kilometer drive to the DMZ.

As we neared the border the bus passed through a series of checkpoints that were a few miles apart. These weren’t that intimidating, just a guard shack by the side of the road with a swinging gate out front.

But as we approached each checkpoint the mood on the bus got a bit tense.

It was one thing to be in North Korea, it was quite another to be scrutinized by army personnel, particularly when carrying an American passport.

Portraits of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il are everywhere in North Korea

After the final checkpoint, the bus pulled up to a large concrete wall where we disembarked.

We were led into a building that contained a gift shop, at the DMZ of all places, offering a wide range of ginseng products and books by the Great Leader, Kim Il Sung.

We soon learned that ginseng was available for purchase wherever we stopped in the DPRK.

We were led into a room that contained a ten-foot high overview map of the area.

A North Korean soldier, wooden pointer in hand, proceeded to provide a military briefing on the DMZ.

Like all rooms in North Korea, it had pictures of the Great Leader, Kim Il Sung, and the Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il, beaming down on the proceedings.

After the brief pep talk we proceeded to the actual border which was delineated by a concrete curb that even a child could just step over.

A series of small buildings the size of mobile homes straddles the border.

Looking at the DMZ from the North Korean side

We noticed that there was also a tour group lined up on the South Korean side.

So while the North and South Korean soldiers stared off against each other to see who would blink first, we had our own stare down with the tourists, likely from the same countries as us, on the other side.

We were permitted to enter one of the small buildings that straddle the border which is used as a conference room when there are disputes between the two Koreas.

Through the small windows of the building we could see the South Korean guards about twenty feet away standing in battle ready positions, their arms hanging tensely at their sides with their fists cocked.

As we ambled around the room, we walked in and out of both Koreas, so technically we were in South Korea at one point.

On the bus ride back that was a matter of some discussion among our group as to whether we get credit for going to South Korea based on our brief foray.

After we arrived back in Pyongyang, there was a sense of relief that we had survived our visit to the most dangerous place on Earth.

Then reality set in, and we realized we were still in Pyongyang, the capital city of the most isolated nation in the world.

Yo, we're from Philly so we're bringing Little Rocky around the world

With the recent death of Kim Jong Il, travel arrangements to North Korea are uncertain.

The isolated country does not allow independent travel, and all groups are escorted by two minders.

But if you are interested in visiting a fascinating country that is like no place else you’ve ever been, we highly recommend going there.

The best place to start is with Koryo Tours. The British-run company has been leading tours to North Korea since 1993.

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 About the Author: Larissa and Michael Milne are traveling around the world for a year with a miniature Rocky statue. You can follow their journey at http://www.changesinlongitude.com/ and on Facebook. They are also writing about their adventures for the Philadelphia Inquirer.

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"Bali" Graffiti at Bondi Beach, Australia

As we know, I’m not much of a surfer, however when I was in Sydney, I made it a point to check out the famous Bondi Beach.

Behind the beach, there runs a long wall, filled with graffiti. Bali being a popular vacation spot for the Aussies, it was no surprise to see this colorful piece in homage to the Indonesian island.

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17 Countries. 343 Days. 6237 Photographs. One incredible journey. Follow the adventure at http://kienlam.net/around-the-world and http://kienlam.net

After I quit my job last year, I packed a bag, grabbed my camera and bought a one way ticket to London. 17 countries later, I compiled this time lapse of the many amazing places I came across.

Original Music: “Places and Faces” by William Lam.

Check out this amazing video by Kien Lam of his trip around the world, and see how many places you recognize.

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Khao Kluk Kaphi

Spending about three-quarters of 2011 in Thailand, I was able to explore further the glorious realm of delicious Thai food.

#1. Pictured above is a dish known as khao kluk kaphi that is made of shrimp flavored fried rice covered in a rainbow of tasty ingredients!

Khao Moo Daeng

#2. Khao moo daeng, or red barbecued pork and rice, is a pork lovers dream come true.

This is a very common dish in Thailand, but after seeing the crowds at this particular restaurant, I decided to give it a try – and it was the best one I’ve ever had!

Shrimp and Stink Beans

#3. I’m a huge lover of all Thai food, but nothing gets me more excited than southern Thai food and its wonderful blend of spicy curries.

Shrimp fried with string beans and something known as “stink beans” was one of the dishes that I couldn’t get enough of in 2011.

Grilled Fish in Myanmar

#4. When I saw these fish waiting to be grilled on the street side of Yangon, Myanmar, there was nothing I could do but immediately order one.

Covered in chili paste and stuffed with fragrant herbs, it was possibly the best grilled fish I ate the entire year.

Som Tam in Laos

#5. No trip to Laos would be the same without spicy green papaya salad, known as som tam.

A combination of shredded crisp green papaya, chopped string beans, tomatoes, dried shrimp and peanuts dressed with fish sauce and lime and served with sticky rice is hard to beat.

Hoppers

#6. Along with the ever-present and always delicious plates of rice and curry that make up the realm of Sri Lankan food is another popular dish known as “hoppers.”

They are made from pancake like batter, flavored with coconut milk, cooked with an egg on top, and served with delicious onion and chili sauce.

Nasi Campur

#7. Malaysian food is so good that I’m willing to make a trip to the country exclusively for a feast.

This plate of nasi campur, rice with mixed toppings, is one of my favorites. The intense flavors and chillies were absolutely delightful.

Chinese Fried Eggplant

#8. As a half Chinese American myself, I grew up eating Chinese food on the daily and there’s no other form of cuisine that is more comforting to my taste buds.

This plate of eggplant with pork and chillies was outstanding!

Chinese Noodles

#9. Now I’m typically an every-meal-rice man, but when noodles are covered with this array of gorgeous toppings, they can be irresistible.

I enjoyed every slurp of this bowl of noodles in Yangshuo, China.

Spicy Fish Hot Pot

#10. The ultimate meal that changed my life for the better in 2011 was this Chinese hot pot of white meat fish smothered in a seemingly infinite amount of garlic, dried chillies, and Sichuan mouth numbing peppercorns.

With a few bowls of rice, this was probably my most memorable meal of the year!

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I’m excited to announce that I will be traveling to Patagonia on March 3, 2012 in partnership with G Adventures!

Departing from Buenos Aires, the 15-day End of the Earth trip encompasses the best of Patagonia, in both Chile and Argentina.

Hiking in the mountains of Patagonia, and standing in awe of its glaciers, has been a travel dream of mine for almost a decade.

Last year, I approached G Adventures about working together at some point during my journey through South America, and this trip is the result.

End of the Earth Itinerary

G Adventures offers a range of Patagonia trips, and frankly they all look amazing.

The End of the Earth trip starts and ends in Buenos Aires, and includes the following highlights:

• Full day hike in Glacier National Park
• Visit the massive Perito Moreno Glacier
• Two and a half days of hiking in Torres del Paine National Park
• Visit a penguin colony at Otway Sound in Punta Arenas
• Visit Ushuaia, the southernmost city in South America, and possibly the world (as well as the most popular jumping off point for cruises to Antarctica)
• Boat cruise on the Beagle Channel

Why G Adventures?

First and foremost, we share a common value — inspiring people to change their lives through travel.

In addition, G Adventures earned my admiration as I watched them embrace social media, and build relationships with travel bloggers years before it was cool to do so.

For example, Bruce Poon Tip (the company’s founder) and I had started following one another on Twitter back in 2009.

The following year, we were drinking beers together at a bar in Washington, DC because he had wanted to attend one of the monthly DC Travel Tweetups I’d been co-hosting.

I’m also a huge fan of the Wanderers in Residence program that G Adventures launched in late 2010, which features several of my peers, such as Jodi of Legal Nomads and Dan and Audrey of Uncornered Market.

The trips they’ve taken with G Adventures have served to inspire me, and now it’s my turn to do the same for you.

The Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina (photo: Tanenhaus)

What to Expect

It will be business as usual here on Go Backpacking.

I’ll be traveling with all my normal gear, and providing real-time updates and photos via Twitter (follow the unique #RTWGADV hashtag), Facebook, Google+, and Instagram.

After the trip concludes in Buenos Aires, I’ll shack up and get to work editing photos and writing blog posts to keep you motivated toward your own trip.

I’ll be sharing my experiences on both Go Backpacking, as well as the G Adventures’ blog.

But Wait, What About the Wildfire?

You may have seen that a wildfire broke out last Tuesday in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park. Visitors were evacuated, and the park was closed.

Since then, progress has since been made in getting the fires under control.

G Adventures maintains a page dedicated to safety updates from around the world, and how they may be affecting tours to specific regions.

According to the latest advisory for Torres del Paine (dated January 4), the rain dances being performed by G Adventures’ staff are paying off, and part of the park is expected to re-open any day now. Excellent.

I am super excited to have the opportunity to experience all that Patagonia has to offer, and finally see what it’s like to go backpacking with G Adventures.

Join me March 3, 2012 for one of South America’s greatest adventures!

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Disclosure: This Patagonia tour is in partnership with G Adventures. I am paying for transportation to/from Buenos Aires, all meals except when camping, optional activities, and any incidentals. The opinions expressed are entirely my own.

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The classic view of Machu Picchu (elev: 2,430 meters), with Wayna Picchu (elev: 2,720 meters) in the background

The streets of Aguas Calientes were dark and empty at 4:20 AM, when I met up with the others from the Salkantay Trek.

Together, we began the 20-minute walk down the road to the main entrance of Machu Picchu.

We arrived at 4:45 AM, just as the entrance was opened.

This is the same entrance used by the buses that shuttle people up and down the mountain, but we didn’t just trek 4 days to hop on a bus at the last minute.

No, we banded together, and through the power of peer pressure, walked up the approximately 1,600 stone steps that lead to South America’s most popular tourist attraction.

The walk took me 50 minutes, and I was sweating like a stuck pig by the time I’d reached the top.

The final gate doesn’t open until 6 AM, so the early risers were all sitting around, catching their breath.

Kathy, the Australian from my group who’d visited Machu Picchu 3 times before, suggested I take a seat at the top of the stairs, right near the 4 turnstiles through which visitors pass.

Even though I wasn’t the first person to reach the top, it didn’t seem at all inappropriate for me to sit on the top stair.

While I was up there, two American girls spoke of how they’d been waiting up there for an hour.

Warning: If you’re a cute foreign girl thinking of trying to sneak into Machu Picchu early, you can only get so far.

At 6 AM, I aligned myself with one of turnstiles, as the line behind me began to take shape. I was one of the first four people inside that day.

Once Kathy got in, she started running. I followed, and she led me to a lookout point where we had a few short minutes to enjoy Machu Picchu at sunrise, before the rest of the day’s 2,500 visitors showed up.

Visitors must bring their original passport to enter Machu Picchu. A commemorative stamp is available immediately inside the gate, on the left, but you have to ask for it.

My first view of Machu Picchu, without a single other person in the photo

Terraces were constructed for farming

Can you imagine the amount of manual labor required to move all those rocks?

Here you can see the quarry, the pile of large uncut rocks, which seems to be falling down the right side of the complex. Machu Picchu was never finished. It was abandoned by the Incas when the Spanish arrived.

The Incas were masterful stoneworkers. They were so good at carving the rocks, and fitting them together, they didn't need to use mortar.

The Incas even took into account earthquakes when they were designing and building Machu Picchu

Meet Wayna Picchu. Only 400 visitors are allowed to climb it every day, so you need to arrange your $10 ticket at least 5 days in advance (from Cusco)

After the initial rush of seeing Machu Picchu wore off, and we’d gotten some photos, it was time for the tour.

Lead by Daniel, our guide from the Salkantay Trek, we walked around the complex for about 2 hours.

While I appreciated the information he was relaying, it was a huge buzzkill, as I wanted to explore on my own.

But you can’t have it both ways, at least not on a group tour.

At 10:30 AM, after refueling on some snacks outside the main gate, it was time to climb Wayna Picchu for a birdseye view of Machu Picchu.

When I first lay eyes on Wayna Picchu, I had no idea how I’d get up it. I’d heard there were ropes on the steep sections (actually they are steel cables), but from below, it looked impossibly steep.

But believe it or not, there is a trail that winds up the mountain face, and it only took me about 40 minutes to get up it.

As usual, it was walking down the steep trail that caused the most pain.

I took it extra slow, heartened by a grandmother who was also hobbled by knee pain, but kept on trucking.

If it was 40 minutes to get up, and I spent 20 minutes at the top taking pictures, then it took me 60 minutes to get down, as I checked out 2 hours after I entered.

For safety reasons, there are two timed entrances to Wanya Picchu per day, 8:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Only 200 tickets are sold for each time (400 daily).

View of Machu Picchu from atop Wayna Picchu

A wider view of Machu Picchu from atop Wayna Picchu. The road used by the buses to take visitors up and down (the easy way) can be seen on the left. Trekkers who take the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu arrive along the trail which can be seen cutting across the upper left side of the mountain.

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From Dave:  I’m excited to announce Brooke Schoenman will be joining the Go Backpacking family as of this month, and will henceforth be contributing on a weekly basis. I began following Brooke way back in 2007, as we both (publicly) planned our future travel adventures. Please join me in offering her a warm welcome! 

Brooke blogging in the park.

I am writing this article while sitting passenger in a car destined for the Mid-north Coast of New South Wales.

The sun is shining so bright that I just had to reapply sunscreen to keep from getting that nice car sunburn that only graces one side of the body.

Oh, the joys of road trips in Australia in the summer.

The first thing you should know about me is that I’m an American living as an expat in Australia, quickly coming up on 3 years in the land down under.

And, since I’ll be writing here on GoBackpacking.com on a regular basis, now is probably a good time to make my introduction so you can get to know me even better. Here goes!

About Yours Truly

I was excited to get the offer to share my travel stories and tips here on this site because I am a backpacker to the core with the love of blogging flowing through my veins.

My personal travel journey started back in late 2007 after about 1.5 years of planning and saving.

I finally set off for a few shorter adventures — a month-long archaeological dig in Spain and a two-month excursion to Central America — before setting off again for the trip that would eventually evolve into the now.

During that time, I’ve been able to hack on a list of life experiences that include:

• Spending about 5 months traveling
• Living and studying Russian in Central Asia
• Teaching English in Kiev, Ukraine
• Wandering around the Baltic countries for 6 weeks and meeting the Aussie love of my life
• Moving down under to be with said love of my life by signing up for a work and holiday visa before applying for the defacto partner visa

To discover the full extent of my travels and experiences, I suggest having a look at my personal travel blog: Brooke vs. the World.

My Favorite Places in the World

Another thing you should know about me is that I have an obsession with the countries of the former Soviet Union.

After spending a significant amount of time in the Central Asian countries of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, and further teaching English in Ukraine, I’ve been set on visiting as many of them as possible.

The adventure continued with a return trip this November to Kyrgyzstan, and upcoming travels on the Trans-Mongolian train will ensure that I finally make it to Russia.

Kyrgyzstan

A Kyrgyz Eagle Hunter

Kyrgyzstan is a little known country that has a special place in my heart, and take it from me: This place is going to be a big travel destination in the future.

Still shaking off that sheltered upbringing brought on by the USSR, Kyrgyzstan is finally starting to draw interest from backpackers and adventure travel seekers.

I find the country intriguing and surprisingly comfortable given its developing surrounds.

Bishkek, the capital city, is modernizing at a rapid rate, yet small villages of rustic, and even some nomadic yurt-living, Kyrgyz dominate the countryside. I’m excited to be able to share this destination with you.

Australia

Kangaroos are in abundance in Australia.

Australia is not a travel secret, as many backpackers head down under to live out a year or two of their lives thanks to the working holiday visa. However, Australia is surprising.

Being such a gigantic and sparse country, there are definitely locations in Australia where you can visit and feel like you are the only person on Earth.

Let’s not forget about the extreme natural beauty, the quirky and iconic wildlife and hundreds if not thousands of beaches.

I love Australia as a travel destination because there is so much on offer. You can have your big city, shopping-filled getaway, eating in trendy cafes and restaurants before seeing a show.

Or, you can get back to nature, camping in the outback or hiking to waterfalls. From secluded islands to dense tropical rainforest, the choice of environments for your holiday is yours!

The famous Cottesloe sunset, Western Australia.

My Writing Topics

Over the coming months, I’ll be sharing posts that cover a number of topics ranging from female travel to working abroad.

I’ll divulge insights into a life living as an expat in Australia, tips for foreign language speaking wannabes, and alternative holiday ideas.

You can also be sure to get several posts on some of my favorite countries in the world: Kyrgyzstan and Australia.

It should be an interesting mix, and if you think so too, be sure to stick around, subscribe and follow along.

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The highlight of the 4-day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu is the opportunity to walk in the shadow of the snow-capped Salkantay Mountain (6,264 meters).

Unlike the classic 3-day Inca Trail trek, which requires you book a spot at least 5-6 weeks in advance (in the low season), the Salkantay Trek can be booked in Cusco upon arrival.

And it can be done for less than half the cost. I’ll be writing more about how to book the trek, and what to pack, in future posts.

But first, I want to take you through the journey day by day, as it was a true outdoor adventure that tested both my mental and physical resolve.

Trail at the start of the Salkantay Trek

Day 1 – Cusco to Soraypampa

Begin: Mollepata 2,900 meters / 9,514 feet; End: Soraypampa 3,900 meters / 12,795 feet
Change in Elevation: 1,000 meters /  3,281 feet
Time walking: 5 hours 15 minutes

Awake at 4 AM, I wiped the sleep from my eyes, rolled out of bed, and moved my bags to the hostel reception. As expected, it wasn’t until about 4:30 – 4:40 AM that the minivan actually pulled up.

Under cover of darkness, we drove around picking up additional trekkers. Our group for the next 5 days was slowly forming.

Abhishek, a young British doctor. A young German doctor. 2 Dutch girls. Nicole (Canada). 2 Malaysian women in their 40′s. A young Japanese guy. And Kathy, an older Australian woman who had just completed the Inca Trail the day before (she did the two treks back to back).

In other words, a lot of estrogen.

The sky began to brighten as we drove from Cusco to Mollepata, a small pueblo, where we had a simple breakfast of bread and eggs with mate de coca (coca tea).

Afterward, we were led to a large truck, in which we hitched a ride for several kilometers up a steep, muddy road. Our guide would say it saved us a few hours of walking. Nobody protested.

Once the truck dropped us off, we began our walk….straight up the mountainside.

Camp #1 is at the base of Umantay (5,459 meters). You can see it in the lower right of this photo.

I had given myself 5 nights to acclimatize in Cusco, which sits at 3,300 meters above sea level, but I’d failed to do any kind of exercise during that time.

My heart was pounding within the first few minutes.

One of the Malaysian women, both of whom had been to Everest Base Camp and successfully climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro two years earlier, complained of a headache.

I knew if she was feeling bad at 3,100 meters, before we’d even started, it wasn’t going to bode well for her that night, or on Day 2, the most difficult day of the trek.

The sun was beating down; it was hotter than I’d expected. Covered in a familiar layer of suntan spray and mosquito repellent, I tried to settle into a comfortable walking rhythm.

Over 3 years had passed since my last high-altitude trek to Indrahar Pass in northern India. I hadn’t realized it’d been so long since I gave myself a proper physical challenge.

Doubts began creeping into my head. They were familiar ones about the my health at high altitudes, and physical stamina.

I recognized them from my Annapurna Sanctuary trek in Nepal; the one where I didn’t reach Base Camp, an experience on the whole that took me months to get over.

After 2.5 hours of walking, we stopped for lunch. Soup, and a rustic version of lomo saltado (beef, vegetables and rice).

I barely finished half my plate, despite knowing food is energy, and I needed as much as possible. I relied on chocolate and copious amounts of water instead.

Throughout the trek, I probably drank 2-3 times more water, and pissed 2-3 times more often than anyone else in our group.

Sitting there at the table, mind filled with doubts about whether I was really fit for this trek, one of the Dutch girls said something that snapped me back into reality.

Paraphrasing, she said any of us can do this trek if we really want it.

I wanted it. Badly.

And from that point forward, I walked with renewed vigor. As if I’d been asleep at the wheel those first few hours, and I was suddenly awake.

Instead of allowing my thoughts to run wild with fear, I took control of my mind, and thus my body followed suit.

Our tents were pitched within a rustic encampment to protect us from the cold night

After lunch we were looked up the valley to see the glacier-covered Umantay. Unlike some trekkers, I gain energy by seeing the next camp — the next destination.

1.75 hours later, I walked into our campsite for the night.

We helped the cook and horseman pitch the tents in an area protected by a sheet metal roof and plastic tarp walls. It wasn’t much, but it’d help keep the wind out, and keep us dry if it rained.

It was my first time sleeping at an altitude as high as 3,900 meters (12,795 feet).

Salkantay Mountain (6,264 meters) at sunset

We all scarfed down the popcorn served as an appetizer. I forgot the main course, but it was much better than lunch, as was the case with the meals on the remainder of the trek, thankfully.

By 10 PM we were all in our sleeping bags. Day 2 was going to be the longest, most challenging day of the trek, and we’d be getting an early start.

I woke up once in the middle of the night to pee. On the walk back to the tented area, I took a moment to stop and turn off my headlamp.

Total darkness.

I craned my neck up and looked at star-filled sky. The kind of bright stars you only see when you take the time to physically remove yourself from the modern world.

Day 2 – Soraypampa to Chaullay

Begin: 3,900 meters / 12,795 feet; High Point:  4,650 m / 15,256 ft;  End:  2,900 m / 9,514 ft
Change in Elevation:  +750 m / +2,461 ft uphill; followed by: -1,750 m / 5,741 ft downhill
Time walking: 8 hours 15 minutes

Daniel, our guide, briefs the group before we begin trekking on Day 2

Day 2 began with a 5 AM wake up call and a cup of coca tea. By the time we’d eaten breakfast, the sun was already reflecting brightly off the glaciers around us.

Our guide, Daniel, took a few minutes to introduce the support crew, which included a cook, assistant cook, and horseman who managed the horses that carried our camping equipment, food, gas, and supplies.

I had a relatively good night’s sleep. It wasn’t the most comfortable, as the sleeping mat provided was paper-thin, but my rented sleeping bag was sufficiently warm, which was what mattered most.

I bought some extra chocolate and water. I think I walked out of camp with 3.25 liters of water in my bag, if not a little more.

The trail winds along the left side of the valley, keeping Salkantay Mountain to the right

We began making our way up the valley toward Salkantay Mountain, which would remain partly shrouded in clouds the whole morning.

The day before we got a glimpse of the peak both on the drive to Mollepata, as well as from Camp 1, which was enough to satisfy me given we were there in the off-season.

Kathy, the Australian woman, shared some coca leaves with us, along with a natural “accelerator” which when combined with the leaves, speeds up the effects.

Within a minute or two of chewing on the leaves, the right side of my tongue went numb.

Spitting out the juices, as if I were chewing on tobacco, was less than appealing, so eventually I spit out the whole wad of masticated leaves.

Horses carry the food, gas and camping gear

Refocusing on the trail, the views continued to get prettier and prettier as our hearts beat harder and harder.

But I was loving every minute. It was as if I was running on pure adrenaline that morning. I’ve never felt so strong and vital. I attributed this feeling to drinking tons of water, and snarfing Snickers bars.

The Japanese guy outpaced us all to the point where we’d long lost sight of him.

Meanwhile, the Malaysian woman with the headache from the day before had rented a horse to ride up the mountain pass that morning.

She’d only spent 2 nights in Cusco before starting the trek, and hadn’t given her body enough time to acclimatize.

I don’t blame her for renting the horse. I would’ve done the same if I felt it in the best interest of my health. It annoyed me to hear at least one other person in the group make some disparaging remarks.

Approaching the high point of 4,600 meters

The closer we got to the 4,650 meter mountain pass, the more energized I felt. I was surprising myself in the best possible way.

The landscape had changed dramatically in the 750 meters we’d climbed in elevation.

Gone were the green grasses, replaced by the rocky, moon like landscapes often seen above 4,000 meters.

On Day 1 we practically had the trail to ourselves aside from a couple trekking with a guide. On Day 2, we shared the trail with that couple, as well as another  small group of trekkers.

The lack of other people was an unexpected surprise, and clear benefit to trekking in the low season.

The Salkantay mountain pass at 4,600 meters. The 3.5 hours it took to get up was the easy part. The 5 hours of going down killed my knees.

Euphoria struck us all as we posed by the sign marking the high point of the trail.

It was a new personal high for me in terms of trekking at high altitudes, though I’d previously been as high as 5,000 meters during the visit to Pastoruri Glacier.

Maybe it was the thin air, but I felt I had the energy to go even higher. After 3.5 hours of walking up to the pass, I knew I could’ve gone even higher that day.

But the hardest part of the day wasn’t going up, it was the following 5 hours it took to descend 1,750 meters in elevation.

After about 20 minutes of rest and picture-taking at the pass, we began our descent.

Driven by a desire to get to a lower elevation to negate the ill effects of the altitude, I walked as quickly as my body would take me.

My knees didn’t appreciate that approach, and within a few hours, I was starting to feel sharp pangs of pain.

Lunch on Day 2 was in Huayracpampa, small encampment in this beautiful valley

At an elevation of 4,000 meters, in a verdant green valley, we stopped for a spaghetti lunch at the small village of Huayracpampa.

It was here that we found the Japanese guy sleeping on our bags, which had been unloaded from the horses upon arrival (ahead of us).

The last 3 hours of walking were the killer. Physically, the most difficult part of the trek for me. I slowed my pace, and adjusted the way I walked on the steeper bits.

The whole trail was scree and loose rock, like a dry riverbed. I wanted nothing more than to get to Camp 2 so I could lay down and rest.

I began repeating a mantra, “you can walk slowly, but you must keep walking.”

When we finally arrived in Chaullay, and removed my shoes and socks, I was greeted by 4-5 painful blisters on each foot.

Normally I carry a sewing needle so I can drain them, but I’d forgotten. Luckily, the German girl had one to spare.

Dinner was a relaxed affair, and I went straight to sleep after it was over.

Day 3 – Chaullay to Santa Teresa

Begin:  2,900 m / 9,514 ft; End: 1,900 m / 6,234 ft
Change in Elevation: -1,000 m / 3,281 ft
Time walking: 4 hours 15 minutes

Breakfast on Day 3: vegetable omelet, bread and jam, hot porridge, and coca tea

It rained at some point during our second night, as we awoke to wet tents, however I slept like a log.

Even though we 1,000 meters lower than the first night, the temperatures were far warmer than we’d experienced at Camp 1.

Rising around 6 AM to coca tea delivered to our tents, we had a filling breakfast, said goodbye to our horseman and horses, and began walking along a dirt road that follows the Lluskamayu River.

A recent landslide had taken out a section of the normal hiking trail, which runs on the opposite side of the river, so we were taking a detour for safety reasons.

We walked on the road vs the trail to bypass this landslide

Mid-morning break on Day 3

Reinvigorated after a full night’s rest, I lead the pack. Compared to the first two days of walking, Day 3 was a breeze.

We followed the river for the entire day’s walk. As we continued to descend in elevation, and the sun rose higher in the sky, it began to get very hot and humid.

I found myself walking at a quick pace simply because I wanted to reach our camp for the night. I wanted to escape the heat.

It didn’t take long for my knees to reject this strategy. Once again, I was feeling sharp, at times crippling, pains in my knees.

The Dutch girls approach a section of trail recently wiped away by a landslide

We were able to detour around one large landslide that affected the trail, but there were still others that required we pass them.

It helps if you don’t look down.

A little over four hours after we got started, we reached the end of the trail.

A minivan was waiting to take us the short distance to the village of Sahuayacu (elev: 2,520 meters), where we had a gigantic lunch of soup, fried rice and vegetables.

We then hopped back into the van for the drive to nearby Santa Teresa where we would be spending our third night.

The hot springs near Santa Teresa

The reward for getting this far was a dip in the hot springs outside Santa Teresa.

They’re situated in a scenic spot alongside the river, and we arrived before the other groups that were doing the Inca Trail and Inca Jungle treks.

For 10-15 minutes, aside from a few locals, we had the pools to ourselves.

That night we were to have a campfire, however heavy rain washed those plans away. Instead, we drank beer and played a few rounds of asshole after dinner.

Day 4 – Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes

Begin: 1,900 m / 6,562 ft End:  2,000 m / ft
Change in Elevation:  -100 m / 328 ft
Time walking: 3 hours

Our map for Day 4, from the hydroelectric plant to Aguas Calientes

On the fourth morning, the group split up.

I wanted to head straight for Aguas Calientes, as did Nicole (Canada), while the rest of the group wanted to pay about $30 to ride what’s billed as South America’s biggest zipline.

Daniel drew Nicole and I a map from the Hydroelectric plant to Aguas Calientes. It was as if we were in Stand by Me.

Walking along the railroad tracks, I felt like I was in Stand By Me

Nicole and I took a 30-minute taxi, along with an Argentinian trekker, to the start of the railway that runs from the Hydroelectric plant through Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo all the way to Cusco.

There were still sections where we had to walk on the loose rock of the railroad tracks, however it was a very flat walk through the valley that runs up behind Machu Picchu.

Along the way, a dog began to follow guide us. Daniel informed us that the trains pass every hour or two, and sure enough, we had to step aside for one during the 3-hour walk.

Aguas Calientes

When we reached the entrance to Machu Picchu, near the train tracks, Nicole and I posed for pics since we’d be getting up before dawn the next day for the hike up.

It was with a mix of excitement and relief that we finally walked up the road that runs from Machu Picchu’s main entrance to the town of Aguas Calientes.

Situated along the river, with the train tracks running straight through the center, it’s a tourist town in the truest sense of the term.

Peru Rail train pulls through Aguas Calientes

Upon finding our hostel for the night, I showered and treated myself to a one hour massage, followed by coffee and a piece of rich chocolate cake.

Dear civilization, I missed you!

That night, we had a group dinner at one of the restaurants. We all ordered the trucha (trout), a dish I’ve come to relish when up in the Andes.

After dinner, a few of us went for a cocktail. 5 for 1 caipirinhas, which drew us in the door.

Unfortunately, they were the tiniest cocktails I’d ever been served. And oh yea, we forgot about the inevitable tax and service charge they’d tack on.

Small drinks aside, it was nice to spend a little time bonding before we set off for our final destination, Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu, before dawn the next morning.

To Be Continued….  

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Plaza de Armas - Cusco, Peru

The Plaza de Armas is ground zero for tourists visiting Cusco en route to Machu Picchu.

Surrounded by restaurants, souvenir shops, and tour company offices, it’s also a popular meeting point since everybody is staying in the same area.

The Peruvian national flag is red and white, while the city flag for Cusco reflects the colors of the rainbow (and is often mistaken for the flag which represents gay pride).

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This is quite possibly the best commercial for a product, the HD Hero2 camera, I’ve ever seen.

Watch it in High Definition for the full experience.

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Tokyo Tower

Early in the year, I began publishing “photo favorites” and quickly found the weird and unusual photos were the ones shared most often via social media.

As any good Editor would do, I began serving up the weirdest, most interesting photos from my travels around the world.

The list below represents the most popular photos of the year.

• Absolut Petrol – one of my favorite photos from Bali
• Bungy Jumping in Queenstown - world’s most picturesque bungy location
• Chocolate Covered Bananas - a sweet surprise on the streets of Tokyo
• Cost of a Public Toilet in India - bathroom humor is timeless
• Don’t Do This in Singapore - a funny street sign
• India’s Coolest Tuk-Tuk Driver - one of my personal favorites
• Obama Jeans – as seen at a market in Rwanda
• Shroom Advertising - direct from Indonesia
• View of Mount Everest from a Commercial Airplane
• World’s Best Beer Name - years later, I still find it just as ridiculous
• World’s Weirdest Urinal - Colombians have an odd sense of humor

If you’re looking for inspiration to travel, here are a few of the photo essays we published.

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Beach in Zanzibar, Tanzania (photo: Mark Wiens)

Tis the season for retrospective blog posts.

Putting together these list brings back a lot of memories, not just of writing my own stories, but of reading those contributed by Mark Wiens, and others throughout the year.

Top 13 Most Popular Posts Published in 2011

• World’s Best Beer Name - by David Lee.  You’ll never guess it in a million years, so click the link!
• Bare Naked: Inside a Japanese Onsen – by David Lee.  Unfortunately, this post ranks way too well for “naked Japanese” in Google.
• 9 Tips to Avoid Theft While Backpacking – by Monica Stott
• Top 10 Travel Safety Items for Women – by Emily Gerson
• Top 9 Malaysian Foods to Die For – by Mark Wiens
• Ultralight Packing List for Japan – by David Lee
• Destination Asia: Packing Ultralight – by Matthew Falk
• Top 9 Ways to Avoid Looking Like a Gringo in Latin America – by Andrew
• How to Stay Beautiful While Traveling – by Olga Garcia
• 7 Simple Tips to Save Funds for Your Round the World Travels – by Ben Manning
• Top 5 Zanzibar Beaches – by Mark Wiens
• 12 Captivating Natural Wonders of Southeast Asia – by Mark Wiens
• 10 Unforgettable Destinations for 2011 – by Ayngelina

Preparing to land in Quito, Ecuador

Editor’s Picks

Raw page views aren’t the only measure of a post’s popularity or value. Here are another 10 posts from 2011 which I believe are worth your time and attention.

• Fear of Travel: Don’t Let it Stop You from Seeing the World - by David Lee.
• Anatomy of An Armed Robbery in South America - by David Lee. Getting robbed in Medellin was the low point of my year, and I detailed the events in this 2,000 word post.
• How to Book a Last Minute Cruise to the Galapagos Islands – by David Lee. After visiting the Galapagos in August, I wrote this guide as a blueprint for planning your own trip.
• Backpacking is an Attitude, Not a Budget – by David Lee. One of my few rants of the year.
• Street Food in Bangkok: How to Take Advantage of the Endless Supply - by Mark Wiens.
• Orangutan Trekking in Sumatra – by Mark Wiens
• Introduction to Ethiopian Food – by Mark Wiens
• How to Get Ready for a High Altitude Mountain Climb – by Suzanne Nance
• 5 Keys to Maintaining Your Inner Peace on a Group Tour - by Pete Mandra
• How to See Argentina in 30 Days – by Marcello Arrambide

As the Editor in Chief of Go Backpacking, my goal is to provide a daily mix of practical, entertaining, and inspiring travel posts.

If there are any particular topics or destinations you’d like to see covered in 2012, please leave a comment below and I’ll do my best to deliver.

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Bullet trains in Tokyo

This year passed in the blink of an eye. Or at least that’s how it feels looking back.

I’m lucky enough to say I’ve done exactly what I wanted to do, and had a great time doing it.

This year had its share of low points too, however by surviving them all, they only served to make me stronger.

If you’re a new reader, this post is a great way to catch up!

Japan

On February 1, about a month before the earthquake and tsunami woud strike, I flew from Newark to Tokyo to kick off my first trip to Japan.

I packed ultra light, only carrying a daypack for the 11-day Winter trip.

Tokyo

I couchsurfed in Tokyo, re-enacted scenes from Lost in Translation at the Park Hyatt, got kicked out of the Tsukiji Fish Market, and took a day trip to visit the snow monkeys of Nagano.

Kyoto

I then hopped a bullet train to Kyoto, where I got a hazy view of Mt. Fuji in the distance.

On my first night in Kyoto, I walked in a random restaurant and had the best sushi of my life. Despite the cold air outside, the salmon belly would melt in my mouth, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

I also tried several regional cuisines in Kyoto, including Kushikatsu and Kaiseki.

I visited the tranquil Golden Temple, and then stepped WAY out of my comfort zone with a bare naked visit to a traditional Japanese onsen.

Hiroshima

The food discoveries continued with massive, fresh oysters and okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, a city which I visited as a day trip from Kyoto in order to see the iconic A-Bomb Dome and Peace Park first hand.

Happy Hour -- Cabo de la Vela, Colombia

Colombia

Within a few days of returning to Virginia from Japan, I was on a flight back to Medellin, Colombia, where I spent the subsequent 6 months.

In addition to further delving into the city’s ridiculously fun nightlife, I also made an effort to visit some of the top restaurants.

The highlight was a 4-hour dinner at El Cielo, which specializes in molecular gastronomy. I also enjoyed Bijao, which specializes in Nuevo Latino cuisine, and Me Late Chocolate.

Caribbean Coast

My big trip outside Medellin took me to the Caribbean city of Santa Marta, Taganga — a backpacker favorite, the gorgeous Parque Nacional Tayrona, and Cabo de la Vela, a desolate yet beautiful beach at the northernmost point of the country and continent.

Pueblos

I also made it a point to visit two of Antioquia’s most popular pueblos, Jardin, where I went horseback riding, and Santa Fe de Antioquia, where I started writing and compiling my Medellin city guide, an ebook I intend to release early in 2012.

But it wasn’t all fun and games.

I got sick (I swear it was more than just traveler’s diarrhea) on the ride back to Santa Marta from La Guajira Peninsula.

Once I was feeling better, and back in Medellin, I was robbed by an armed man while waiting at a stoplight in a taxi.

Sea lions in the Galapagos

Ecuador

The recent robbery in Colombia had me on edge for my first visit to Ecuador, but despite all the theft stories I’d heard, I couldn’t bring myself to skip a country out of fear alone.

Quito

So I flew to Quito on AeroGal as planned, and proceeded to have a fun and theft-free time exploring the historic city center, visiting the Equator, riding the Teleferico for sweeping city views, and mountain biking down Cotopaxi Volcano.

The Galapagos Islands

I booked a last minute trip to the Galapagos Islands from Quito, but ran into trouble early when our yacht broke down the first day!

Luckily, we had a cool guide, and we made the most of the down time with a visit to Tortuga Bay, where we saw our first sharks and marine iguanas.

The highlight of the week for me was swimming with sea lions, followed closely by observing the Blue Footed Boobies. We saw the famous land tortoises, and even a few Galapagos Penguins!

Banos, Guayaquil, Montanita, and More

I went to Ecuador for the Galapagos, but soon found there was much more to the country then the wildlife out at sea.

I went canyoning in Banos, ate cuy (guinea pig), poked around Guayaquil, partied in Montanita, and fell in love with Cuenca. It was also in Cuenca that I had my best meal in Ecuador.

From there it was on to Vilcabamba in the Valley of Longevity, from where I would start the overland journey into northern Peru.

Lomo Saltado (beef with vegetables)

Peru

Taking the scenic route into Peru entailed a 2-day bus and colectivo adventure to Chachapoyas, from where I visited the ancient fortress of Kuelap and the world’s 3rd tallest waterfall.

Then it was on to Trujillo, the country’s second largest city, from which I explored colorful Moche ruins and UNESCO-listed Chan Chan.

Continuing the pattern of zigging and zagging, my next overnight bus took me to Huaraz at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca.

I took a tour around Huascaran, Peru’s tallest mountain, and visited a glacier at 5,000 meters above sea level.

From Huaraz, I landed in Lima where I’d proceed to eat my way through the city (and put on the extra pounds to prove it).

I’ll be writing more about my time in Lima, as well as my trek to Machu Picchu in early January, so stay tuned!

My Lima office (aka the kitchen)

The Business

My goal with building an online income has always been to afford myself the opportunity to live and travel abroad freely.

As I devoted the second half of 2010 to living in Colombia, it wasn’t until 2011 that I really got to spread my wings and fly.

While my income didn’t increase as much as I’d anticipated (it grew about 20%), it was enough to allow me a few investments back into the business, including a new 13″ MacAir (which may be the best travel laptop ever) and a custom blog design.

I also began paying contributors for the first time, which has worked out very well for everyone. In fact, so well that I’ll be announcing another addition to the Go Backpacking team in early January.

And most recently, I was honored to be accepted into the Society of American Travel Writers.

Go Backpacking - I started off the year with a search for a new contributor, which lead me to Mark Wiens. His weekly contributions are amongst the most shared on Go Backpacking. Visits increased 62% in 2011 over the prior year, with the site breaking 1.2 million page views. I also began creating the Travel Guides section.

Medellin Living - Medellin Living had a breakout year, with almost triple the number of visits in 2011 over 2010. I also began paying contributors to this site, which is especially important when I’m not in Colombia, as I can’t devote as much time to growing the site.

Travel Blog Success - At the start of the year, I doubled the amount of lessons and audio interviews, and also added monthly coaching calls and a private Facebook group to the Premium membership offering.  We had over 100 new members join the TBS community in the last 12 months, bringing the total membership to over 200. I don’t anticipate any major changes for 2012, and just hope to continue helping new bloggers one by one.

The rest of the week will be devoted to sharing the most popular posts of the year.

Thank you for continuing to read, and I look forward to making 2012 our best year yet!

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Hiking Near Yangshuo, China

Guilin city is an extremely beautiful town located in the northern part of Guangxi Province, China.

After arriving, I asked a local about the population of Guilin. “It’s very small, about 6 million,” she replied. I guess by Chinese standards that is rather small.

Anyways, don’t let the mid-sized city population of Guilin throw you off, there are plenty of cool outdoor adventures in and around the area.

1. Go Hiking

Though there are many hiking destinations around Guilin, one place famous for its scenic views is the hike from Yangdi to Xingping.

It’s a long hike, about 25 kilometers, but the views of the Li River and the incredible karst mountains were absolutely breathtaking. The hike took us about 5 hours to complete but it was worth every step.

The actual small town of Yangshuo, situated about 1.5 hours from Guilin is also surrounded by mountains and offers a wide selection of different hikes. Try hiking up TV Tower or hike to the top of Moonhill.

Go Bike Riding

2. Bike Riding

A different way to see the scenery around Guilin is to rent a bicycle and take a cruise. Within the city of Guilin there are plenty of parks and outdoor public areas that make great areas to bike around.

Outside of Guilin, again in the town of Yangshuo, there are lots of bicycle route options. Many bike rides are accessible by provided roads that have very little motor traffic, however if you enjoy off-road biking you can easisly pedal down one of the countless rice farming trails.

One of the great things about Yangshuo is that even though there are plenty of tourists, it is still easy to escape the crowds when you are on a bike.

You can either choose a real mountain bike or a Chinese style one speed bike. Mountain bikes go for around $5 – $10 per day while one speed bikes (like the one above) can be rented for just $1 or less per day.

Rock Climbing in Guilin

3. Rock Climbing

All the karst cliffs and mountains make the area of Guilin one of the most well-known spots in China for rock climbing enthusiasts.

From organized rock climbing tours put together by official companies to just getting out there and tackling the adventure on your own, if you like rock climbing you will have a blast in Guilin and Yangshuo.

There are possibilities to go rock climbing if you are a highly experienced climber or even if you are just a beginner.

Bamboo Rafting in Yangshuo

4. Bamboo Rafting

China is probably the most famous country in the world for bamboo. Bamboo is a wonder plant that produces perfectly round poles that have been used for countless purposes throughout China’s lengthy history.

One of those ancient uses was to construct floating river boats. While there are quite a few fake bamboo rafts made from plastic tubes these days, there are also plenty of real bamboo rafts.

The slow-moving Yulong River near Yangshuo is one of best places to rent an authentic bamboo raft and enjoy a lazy floating time down the river.

5. Caving

Due to the natural landscapes and abundance of mountainous rock formations, Guilin is home to some amazing scenery below its surface too.

One of the most popular and closest caves to visit in Guilin is the Reed Flute Cave. As proven by ancient Tang Dynasty rock carvings and etching, the Reed Flute Cave has been enjoyed by Chinese visitors starting over 1200 years ago.

Closer to Yangshuo are even more caves including the Silver Cave, Dragon Water Cave, and the Seven Star Cave. The Crown Cave even includes tours by railroad car and underground river boat tours.

Getting Married on a Bamboo Raft

If you are really looking for an outdoor adventure near Guilin, China, you may want to consider getting married on an authentic bamboo raft…lots of Chinese do!

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Christmas lights in Envigado, Colombia

Cusco put up a few lights in the central square, and central Lima even more, but the decorations in Peru were nothing compared to what you get in Medellin, Colombia.

My favorite display was in Envigado, where the streets were literally blanketed with millions of little lights.

Merry Christmas!

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Christmas Markets in Vienna 2009 from Rafael Asquith.

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