Introducing a New Puppy to Your Adult Dog

I was going to write an article about it, but truly I couldn’t write a better article than this.

My foster puppy is such a great puppy when I am home…however he barks constantly while I am gone. I am gone for a few hours in the morning and in the afternoon for work. My roommate is not happy with the situation, and I am not sure what to do. I live in an apartment complex and I am worried about the neighbors as well. Do you have any suggestions on what I should do about his barking? I want to foster this little guy so bad, he is such a loving puppy. I want to do what is best for him…he loves other animals and I wonder if he had another dog around if he would bark. I am open to any suggestions you have.

Answer:

This behavior is pretty typical of a single puppy. There’s a good reason why puppies are born in litters! All dogs, no matter the age, are social creatures, and for puppies in particular that social interaction is so vital. They learn from their brothers and sisters, they stay warm sleeping on them, they play together, and they thrive on these relationships. So when a pup is separated from not only his mom but also his siblings, it is extremely stressful and hard on him. Having experienced such a huge loss, it’s little wonder that when the pup forms a new bond with another caregiver/playmate, he freaks out when that caregiver leaves him. That can be very stressful on the caregiver. I fostered a couple single pups in the past, and at some point I remember taking them into the bathroom with me just to get some quiet!

There is really is no instantaneous solution (I would probably make a million dollars if there were). Mother Nature works in her own time, and eventually the puppy will calm down and learn to comfort himself. The important thing is that you don’t give it any more attention than you absolutely have to. You don’t want to reward him for this behavior. So plan for times away carefully and in advance. Make sure he’s nice and warm, he doesn’t have to go potty, that he has a plush, stuffed buddy in his pen or crate with him, and perhaps invest in some good ear plugs for your neighbors. If he is physically able, a few energetic play sessions during the day to tire him will definitely help you out in the peace and quiet department. You can try leaving him with a stuffed kong or other tasty goodie, but I found in this situation, the little guy is usually too upset to want to eat. When you must leave, as long as you know that all his basic needs are met, then you don’t have to feel guilty or worry that he really needs something. He’s just lonely and doesn’t know what’s going on, and in his eyes, you’re not just caregiver, you’re also playmate now too.

You can also do a little training with him when you two are together. First, make sure you aren’t coddling him a lot when you’re around. Have plenty of playtimes and lovin’ sessions. This is very important to a pup’s development too. But it’s also important to start teaching the pup to entertain and comfort himself too. Here’s how you do that.

When you are in the same room with him, practice totally ignoring him (don’t talk to him, don’t hold him or touch him, and don’t even look at him (except to be sure he isn’t going potty on the rug)). Start with a few minutes where you ignore him, and gradually work up to maybe 15-20 min. When you’re watching TV, this is a great time to start this type of training. Give the pup a couple toys to play with and chew on, and then ignore him totally when the show is on, no matter how he tries to get you to play. Then, during commercials, reward him with a couple minutes play or petting. When the show comes back on, ignore him again. Do this for maybe the span of a sitcom (don’t forget to make one of your play breaks a potty break!). During these times, he is learning how to entertain and comfort himself.

Also, make sure you’re ignoring him at your meal times. He needs to know that just because you’re around, that doesn’t mean you’re always going to pay attention to him. He will learn how to entertain himself. And when he can do that when you’re around, then he’ll be able to do it when you’re away.

Hang in there and I promise it will eventually get better as he settles in and gains some confidence.

I had a 1-3 year old pitt dropped off at my work a couple of weeks ago. I don’t know anything about her except what I can gather from being around her: she’s had many litters, terrified of people (especially men), and she is such a sweetie despite everything. She has been indifferent to my cats and likes my dogs until recently. She has started to open up to my husband and I and we have enjoyed watching her improve daily. However, she has started to bark at and chase my cats, especially if they are sitting on something eye level or higher (bed, chair, ect.). Before this, she has acted like they weren’t even there but this new interest has made me uneasy about leaving her in the house with them alone. She is such a great dog and I know once she trusts people more she’ll make a great companion for almost any home. I want to stop this behavior before it gets out of hand without backtracking her progress. Help please!

This is an issue with all breeds, not just pitt bulls. However, you can solve this problem using the same techniques I suggested to the rescuer:

“It sounds like you’ve done a lot of great work with her, and now she’s coming out of her shell. As she emerges, you’re probably going to see a few things here and there that you didn’t see before. Don’t worry about; continue to remain very calm and patient with her. Pitties, like many breeds, are wondefully smart, people-oriented dogs who really want to please their humans.

“Dogs often feel uncomfortable when another creature is higher off the ground than they are. Physical height is often related to social status; you’re up higher than I am, and therefore have the best position to see/hear/obtain, so I feel lower on the social ladder. I usually recommend keeping all dogs on the same level (ie, not allowing one dog on the bed or couch), but it’s hard to tell a cat what to do.

“First and foremost, I strongly recommend you crate her when you cannot supervise her. Even though she may be a real sweetie, you don’t want a little thing to turn into a big thing when you’re not there to supervise. Pitts are terriers, and terriers were bred to hunt small creatures and keep the castles and other domiciles free of rodents. It’s a very natural thing for terriers to be small prey driven. So keep her confined when you’re not there to keep her and kitty safe.

“To work on the behavior: since she is not really aggressive toward them, yet, you might try taking a super tactile, lovey-dovey approach to this. I am doing this with my young pup when he is playing with my dogs. He tends to get a little serious, when things need to just be fun. When kitty is around, put your dog on a leash, sit on the floor and snuggle with her. Massage her neck and shoulders, and perhaps using very low and long tones and syllables, tell her “goooooooooodddd giiirrllll.” I would also recommend that you find some super tasty treats, something she only gets when kitty is around. As long as she is being calm, massage her, kiss and love on her, and give her these tasty treats. Don’t get her excited by using quick movements or high tones of voice; stay calm, keep your voice low and even, and just keep her relaxed. You are teaching her that having kitty around means warm fuzzy time from you, which is what all any dog wants. If she gets way too intense, then take up the leash and take her out of the room. No more treats, no more “good girl”. You take her to another room, and (holding the leash), you ignore her. Don’t talk, touch or look at her. When she calms down, take her back into the room with the kitty, and resume warm fuzzy time.

“Do this a couple times a day, and she will learn that kitties mean love, not chase. You can do this when you’re watching tv or the kids are doing their homework. But just make sure that you’re paying attention to her body language so that you know when she’s getting too intense on the kitty. If she stares the cat down, holds her breath, gets very stiff and still, and/or her ears are forward and all her intent is on that cat, then take her out of the room until she calms down.”

Making positive associations between your animals, no matter the species, and showing everyone that you are in charge is key to ensuring safety and happiness. If everyone is looking to you for their cues on how to behave, you will enjoy a peaceful and fun house.

Have you ever observed a stray dog running loose? He travels for a distance, stops to sniff a bush, then sprints off after a butterfly. Just as suddenly he stops and smells the air, then returns to his travel. Just like those small children, the stray dog rarely, if ever, walks in a straight line. And that’s where we as adults run into problems. We have been programmed to walk at the same speed in one direction all the time. Life is busy, and walking the dog is just another one of those chores we have to do. Even when hiking, we stick to a predetermined path and never stray from it. And our dogs are just so bored with that.

There are dozens of prescribed methods to encourage your dog to walk nicely on a leash. I’m all about simple solutions, and here I will describe a method you can use for a young pup on his first walk, or a four-year-old adult who’s pulled his human down the road all his life.

What you need

• Collar or harness
• Leash
• Lots (and I do mean LOTS) of patience

Using a harness to walk a dog goes against every dog training book I’ve ever read and every trainer I’ve ever talked to. “A harness encourages a dog to pull.” “You can’t control a dog with a harness.” “A harness gives the dog all the power.” I’ve heard all these, and using many of the loose leash walking methods out there, that certainly is true. However, we’re not going to try to hold the dog back or allow him to pull, so he’s not going to have the power.

And you might notice that treats are not part of the equation either. Lots of people use treats to teach loose leash walking with great success. I have no idea how they do it. I’m just simply not coordinated enough to hold the leash, feed the dog, and watch where I’m going all at the same time. Besides that, a walk is self rewarding. To my way of thinking, I shouldn’t have to provide further reward. If you want to add treats to this method, go for it. Just make sure that you quickly wean your dog off them or you’ll be using treats forever.

What you do

Snap the leash on your dog’s collar or harness, and start walking. The moment, and I mean the very instant, that leash goes tight, Stop. Stop dead in your tracks and wait, even if you haven’t left your porch yet. Your dog is going to try all different things to get you to continue moving forward. He might lunge, whine, bark, run this way and that, or just stand there. All the while, you do nothing. Do not apply any further tension to the leash, but also do not give any slack. Do not say anything to him or touch him in any way. Simply wait. Remember to bend your knees and stand with your feet apart just a bit to maintain your balance.

You are waiting for the very instant that your dog puts the slack on the leash. He might turn to look at you or back up. This will naturally put slack in the leash. He might move to the side to smell something and accidentally put slack on the leash. It does not matter how he did it, just that the leash loosened a bit. Then you move forward. The dog will immediate rush forward again, and again you stop and wait. Say nothing, do nothing. Wait until he causes the leash to go slack, and then move forward again.

You’re going to continue doing this, only moving on when the lease is slack. While it might happen accidently at first, your dog will soon learn that you only move forward when the leash is loose. At first you will move one step at a time. Slowly but surely you will find you’re taking two steps, then five, then ten and so on.

One thing I should note is that this is NOT teaching your dog to heel. With this method, he might walk in front of you, or behind, or on either side. This is not Rally and you’re never going to win an obedience competition like this. This is all about enjoying a pleasant walk with your dog.

Tips

Keep it short

It is important not to do too much at first. I always tell people to abandon any plans of walking the dog for exercise until you have this down. Either you or your dog will run out of patience pretty quickly the first few times you do this, so keep it short. Start with five or ten minutes, and then gradually increase in five minute intervals as your dog gets good at this. Just understand that you probably will not leave your block the first time out, and there’s nothing wrong with that. You’ll get there.

Change directions

Remember the children and stray dog mentioned earlier in this post and how interesting their walks were. Emulate that by frequently changing directions and varying your pace. Sometimes walk at a nice comfortable pace, sometimes jog or sprint for short spells. Turn around and go back the way you just came, or walk down a dead end street. Stop and smell the roses, literally. If you keep the walk interesting, your dog will stay interested in you.

Minimize Distractions

Begin practicing in an area or at a time that is quiet and with not many people around. Start off in your backyard, or walk down the street later in the evening when fewer people are out. It will help if your dog isn’t running to greet his favorite neighbor or chasing the kids’ ball. Bushes and fence posts are distracting enough without adding to it. I also recommend sticking to the same route for the first few times. The sights and smells will become familiar to your dog, allowing him to better focus on what you want him to learn.

Simple enough for everyone

Fortunately, this technique is simple enough that anyone can do it anytime, anywhere. I once used this technique to teach an adult basset hound to walk nicely in the middle of the greenbelt with two labs running off leash around him. It is great for foster families teaching a dog to walk nicely because it is simple to explain to a new adoptive family so they can continue the training. You don’t need any special skills or equipment, and if you just have a few minutes, that’s a perfect amount of time to give it a try. In future articles, I’ll cover some fun games you can play with your dog that will reinforce your dog’s desire to be with you.

Further reading

Many trainers subscribe to this technique. One that springs to mind Turid Rugaas, an internationally renowned trainer of dogs and handlers. Her method is very similar to this, though she adds a few easy steps that might be useful for dogs who have been pulling all their lives, or for humans who lack the boundless patience this method requires. Her book is:

Rugass, Turid. My Dog Pulls. What Do I Do?. 2005. Dogwise Publishing

Follow these steps to use sound effectively to get your dog to do what you want him to do:

A. Number of Notes

Generally speaking, short, repeated notes encourage activity and single, long, low notes discourage it. For example, if you want your dog to come to you, use short, repeated notes to encourage her along. For instance, say her name twice and “Come.” Or, say “Where are you,” clap your hands and run away from her.

If you’re trying to stop or prevent activity, like a “Sit” or “Stay,” say it once. If your dog is chasing a squirrel, you don’t want to yell “Rosie, Rosie, Come!” after her; the repeated notes are only encouraging her activity. Blast out one short “No,” wait until she stops, then redirect her back to you with hand claps and repeated words.

To calm your dog in stressful situations, use one long, continuous note. Trainers of several different species of animals use this method to ease frightened or stressed animals. “Eeeeeeaaaaassy, boy” or “Goooooooooood dog” will go much further to soothe your dog than short, excited notes.

B. Pitch

Low pitches signify authority, confidence, threat and agression. High pitches usually indicate praise, excitement, immaturity and fear. So it is important to be conscious of what pitch your voice is at when working with your dog. If you want your dog to come to you, belting out a low-pitched “Come” like a drill sergeant will probably result in your dog, and everyone around you, stopping what they’re doing and just looking at you. Instead, use a high voice to excite your dog to coming to you. To get your dog to stop an activity or to have her Stay, practice saying “No” or “Stay” in a low, quiet voice. If she ignores your sweet pitch to come, change to a low “No” and follow it with the same sweet “Come” from before.

C. Pitch modulation

Use a flat, steady pitch to soothe an animal, and a changing pitch to excite them. In addition to use short, repeated notes to stimulate your dog, change the pitch as you say them: “Rosie, Rosie, COME!”

Only through consistent training will your dog reliably come to you. No amount of short, repeated words or low-pitched “No’s” are going to stop your dog from chasing the neighbor’s cat if you don’t give him a good reason to do so. But using your voice is a good tool.

1. McConnell, Patricia. The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs. 2002. Random House.

Housetraining is a both a management and training issue. You manage her behavior so that she doesn’t have the opportunity to do the wrong thing (go in the house), and give her lots of opportunities to do the right thing (go to the bathroom outdoors).

1. Until your dog is reliably house-trained, keep him with you at all times, whether inside or outside. If you cannot directly supervise your dog, confine him to a small, puppy-proof area such as a crate or safe room.
2. When it’s time to go out, put your dog on a leash, grab some tasty treats, and go out with her to her potty spot. When she goes, say “Good Potty” in a low tone of voice. Afterward, immediately give her a treat and lots of praise. Don’t skip over the treat step; this is vital to hastening the training process.
3. Don’t wait for your dog to ask to go outside. Initiate taking him out yourself.
4. Take your dog outside at least once an hour while she’s active (after eating, playing, chewing or napping) and even more often during the morning and evening hours.
5. Learn your dog’s signals. Some dogs will do a dance to get your attention, but others are more subtle.
6. Clean up accidents with enzymatic neutralizers such as Nature’s Miracle. Do not use household detergents (particularly do not use ammonia). The scent of urine is a beacon directing your dog to restroom, so you have to get rid of the scent as well as the stain.
7. Gradually expand your dog’s freedom in the house, a room at a time. Slowly get the dog used to this expansion in the “den” by playing, feeding and spending time in each new space.
8. Feed your dog on a regularly schedule and learn his signals that might be telling you he needs to go out.
9. Be patient. Accidents happen. Instead of becoming frustrated, ask yourself how you can prevent the accident next time.

1. London, Karen B. and McConnell, Patricia B. Way to Go! How to Housetrain a Dog of Any Age. 2003. Dog’s Best Friend, Ltd.
2. Thornton, Kim Campbell. Simple Solutions: House-Training. 2002. BowTie Press.

This is one of the most important concepts in positive learning, no matter what species you’re dealing with. To change any unwanted behavior, you need to prevent your dog from being rewarded for behaviors you don’t want him to do, and consistently and generously reward him for behaviors you do want him to do.¹

Follow these steps to redirect your dog to a new behavior²:

When and where does the behavior occur?

(i.e., the dog barks at the mailman, the dog pees on the carpet after she eats, the dog growls at other dogs you meet on the street)

Determine what is causing the dog’s behavior:

1. Food (is the dog hungry or not getting the right nutrition?)
2. Play (is the dog bored?)
3. Socialization (is the dog suffering from lack of playtime with other dogs? Is he getting the opportunity to learn about new sights, smells, sounds, environments?)
4. Quiet Time (does the dog have the opportunity (the time and the place) to get away when she needs to get away from stress?)
5. Exercise (is he getting enough opportunity to run and drain his energy?)
6. Employment (does she need a “job” to do? does the dog know what is expected of him?)
7. Rest (is the dog tired? Does she just want to be left alone?)
8. Training (has the dog been taught what to do? have you unintentionally taught her to do the unwanted behavior?)
9. Health Care (is there a medical cause for the dog’s actions (allergies, illness, age, etc.)

Decide what you want the dog to do instead of the unwanted behavior. Set a goal.

(i.e., bark three times, go outside to her spot and go potty, play nicely with other dogs)

Select a method to change your dog’s behavior:

1. Withdraw the reward the dog receives for the behavior; ignore undesirable behavior
2. Use positive reinforcement to train a new behavior
3. Remove the cause of the behavior
4. Substitute another behavior (i.e., sit instead of jumping)
5. Put the behavior on cue (i.e., teach the dog to stop bark by actually teaching the dog to “speak”, and then teaching her to be “quiet.”
6. Get the dog used to it (i.e., get him used to thunder by playing recordings of thunder claps softly at first, then gradually increasing the volume as the dog becomes more comfortable)
7. Deliver a “negative” (NOT a physically or mentally harmful punishment; rather, withdrawing your attention from a jumping dog, spraying bitter apple or Listerine mouthwash on an object to curb chewing, etc.)

Update: This post was originally titled “Dealing with Problem Behaviors.” However, many of our dogs’ actions are usually only “problems” in the eyes of a human. Chewing on a pair of shoes certainly isn’t what we want, but it isn’t a problem like dog-dog aggression, or dog-human aggression. The suggestions listed above deal more with relatively benign issues like barking, chewing, digging, etc. Consult a professional if you’re experiencing more serious issues like aggression, separation anxiety, escaping, etc.

1. Miller, Pat. The Power of Positive Dog Training. 2001. Hungry Minds, Inc.
2. Owens, Paul. The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training. 1999, Adams Media, an F+W Publications Company.

All living things repeat behaviors that are rewarding and avoid behaviors that aren’t.

You do not have to punish a dog (or any animal for that matter) to develop or change behavior patterns. Understand what motivates your dog, figure out what is rewarding enough to him that he will want to choose this behavior over any other. Remember this one principle, and you can train any behavior or change any “problem” behavior.

Focus on what you want your dog to do, not on what you do not want him to do.

All you have to do is figure out how to keep your dog from being rewarded by behaviors you don’t want him to do, and generously and consistently reward him for behaviors you do want him to do, and training your dog will be a breeze.

Your dog already knows everything you are going to teach him.

Your dog already knows how to sit, get off the couch, walk nicely next to you on walk (if properly motivated!). Your job as a trainer is to teach your dog the English words that correspond to the behavior, and make performing that behavior very rewarding.

Dogs only have the ability to learn one behavior for per cue.

Consistency ensures success. Discuss with everyone who interacts with the dog and agree on the rules the dog must follow and the specific commands you will teach her. If one family member tells the dog “off” to mean get off the couch or off a person, but someone else uses the word “down” (which the dog has learned means “lay down on the floor”), the dog will not understand what you want her to do.

1. Miller, Pat. The Power of Positive Dog Training. 2001. Hungry Minds, Inc.