Putting the Hoops Together

In most kits, including ours, your hoops will come bundled together and you will need to construct them. It could be anywhere from two to four sections of pipe depending on the width of your structure. One end will be swaged in order to fit inside the other end which will be the complete diameter of the pipe. Once you have slid all of the pieces together you will secure them with self tapping screws. 

Using a center punch before you drill in this step will help you move quickly through the process. Make sure that you are installing the screws such that they will be parallel to the ground once the hoop is upright. You do not want the screw end in a place that will allow it to rub on the plastic and create a hole over time. 

For ease of leveling in the next steps, mark each hoop six inches from the bottom on both sides. 

Check out Prequel to Building Your First Hoop House for a list of tools needed for the build.

Installing Hoops on Ground Posts

Now that all of your hoops are put together you can begin inserting them into the ground posts. When you place the hoops it is best to have the same person start on the same side each time to keep them even. Place all your hoops into the ground posts before going back through to level and attach them. 

The hoops will be slightly wider than the set ground posts. This is intentional. After you place the first hoop end into the ground post the person on the other side will push the hoop inward so it can be slid into the second post. This slight spring loading adds strength to the structure and helps keep the hoops from sliding in too far.  

Need help setting your ground posts? Check out this article for help with the process.

Covering Seams and Screws on Hoops

Any place where the plastic will come up against an attachment point or seam can be a potential location for weakening of the plastic causing small holes as wind and weather move the plastic against the irregularity. In some builds you will see people using tape or felt to wrap these points. Others will attach felt strips over the hoops to smooth the surfaces where the plastic rests against the metal. Although this can be helpful it is not necessary. The 4-year-warranty UVA plastic is quite strong.

Keeping a roll of greenhouse repair tape one hand is always a good idea. Both during the build process and for the future. This allows you to quickly take care of any snags or small tears before the wind blows them into bigger problems. Repair tape is UV rated and will not break down in the sun the way duct tape or electrical tape can. 

Learn all about Installing Greenhouse Plastic in this article. 

Leveling Hoops

Before you attach your hoops to the ground posts, go along the structure and get them as close to level as possible. As you attach each hoop it is a good idea to use a magnetic level to get it as close to straight up and down as you can before attaching the hoop to the ground post. 

If all of your ground posts are level with one another you can do the leveling by using the six inch marks. We recommend using clamps to make setting each hoop evenly easier. Start with hoops marked six inches from each end. Place a clamp on either end at the marked point. 

As each hoop goes in you will sink it to the clamp. Then attach the hoop to the ground post by drilling through the hoop and putting your bolts through the post and hoop. The clamp will keep the hoop from sliding in further while you try to drill. 

This is another place where using a center punch will ease your way and speed up the process. The punch mark helps guide the drill and keeps your holes lined up. 

A Little Room for Error

Once all of your hoops are attached to the ground posts and you stand back from the structure to look, they may not all line up correctly. Keep in mind that a hoop house is not a complex machine and a little bit of imprecision is acceptable. The structure will still work. The plastic will still fit. 

In the next steps of your build, you will have multiple additional points of contact added between the endwalls and the hoops as well as the hoops to one another. These are the steps where you will ensure that the hoops are perpendicular to the ground and correctly spaced from each other at the top. 

Proper Installation of Hoops for Your Build

This is one of the big moments in a hoop house build. Once you begin to put the hoops up, you will finally get to see how your work up to now has built a solid foundation. Once the hoops are all up, you will get a true feeling for how big the structure will be. 

Hoops that are installed into the ground posts as close to plumb and level as possible will make the rest of your build smoother and the resulting structure stronger. You can forgive yourself for small imperfections that are visible in this step. There will be opportunities to fine tune the placement of the hoops as you attach the ridgepoles, hipboards, and baseboards in the following steps. Once the plastic goes on, the structure will smooth and any little errors will cease to be visible.  

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Ridge poles, optional purlins, and cross connectors work together to connect and stabilize the hoops on a hoop house structure. Properly installing these parts will make a huge difference in the strength of the overall hoop house.

We recommend keeping these options in mind when planning your hoop house build. Read more to learn how these components work together to create a sturdy structure.

Installing Ridgepoles and Cross Connectors on a Hoop House

The installation of your ridgepoles with cross connectors is the step that will finalize the position of the hoops. It allows for  slight adjustments to ensure proper spacing between hoops. In the case of our all inclusive greenhouse kits, the hoops will be four feet on center apart from each other. This is also the step where you will carefully plumb one end wall hoop and use that to ensure that each succeeding hoop is plumb and exactly perpendicular to the ground. 

Safety Meeting

Throughout this step you will be high up and working generally above your head. This can be done on ladders or by renting a lift. If you will be working on a ladder it is ideal to have someone holding the ladder for you. Also that person can be extremely helpful in handing up dropped items so you are not having to climb up and down for every dropped nut or socket. 

We have seen people do this step working in the bucket of a tractor but it is not the safest method and not one we recommend. If you are building a large hoop house, you may find that renting a lift for the day will be not only the safest option but will make the work go faster and be easier on your body. 

Keeping Your Endwall Plumb

Since each hoop will be connected to the first end wall it should be carefully made plumb and held that way as you make the connections. You can do this easily using stakes and rope. Wrap a rope up and around the hoop. Using a magnetic level, stake the rope securely on either side of the hoop with the hoop directly perpendicular to the ground. If you need to, move the stakes slightly left or right in order to secure the hoop in the proper position.

Once this first hoop has been set you can begin attaching the ridge poles. The first connector you use will be the endwall connector. All other hoops will be attached using cross connectors. 

Using Cross Connectors to Attach Hoops

The cross connector is a handy piece of hardware that is placed over a hoop and bolted together to create a saddle for the ridge pole to slide through. The bolts can be left loose to facilitate moving the ridge poles through and then tightened using an impact driver or ratchet once your hoop to hoop measurements have been double checked. 

Ridge Pole Installation

Once your cross connectors are installed you will start putting in the poles themselves. 

The ridge poles for our kits are made up of 75” pieces of 1 ⅜ tubing that are open on one end and swedged on the other. As you connect each piece together you will put in a self drilling screw through from the bottom or on the side to keep the lengths together. 

Once the pole is in place, tighten the carriage bolts to keep the distance between the hoops even at 4' on center spacing. Once each hoop is plumb, we recommend adding a #8 self tap screw to all tension bands and end wall cross connectors- but not the saddle type cross connectors. Just make sure you are placing those screws facing downward to avoid issues with the greenhouse plastic.

Purlin Kits for Increased Strength and Stability

Most hoop house manufacturers, including us, have purlin kits available as an add on to any hoop house build. Purlins are used for hoop houses in locations where heavy wind or snow loads cause a need for increased strength of the structure. 

Purlins are installed in the same manner as the ridge poles, but they come in pairs and add more rigidity to the structure. They are installed on the hoops halfway between the ridge pole and where you will be installing your hip braces in the next step. 

Wind and Snow Load Considerations and Maintenance for Hoop House Style Greenhouses

When deciding to add a purlin kit or additional wind bracing it is important to consider the expected wind and snow loads for your geographical location. Water weighs 8.34 pounds per gallon, which can add up quickly over a large structure. If your area is susceptible to large storms and wet snow loads, removing snow build up will be an important part of your winter maintenance.

We have written the articles below to help you understand wind and snow loads as well as what to expect in terms of maintenance to avoid problems. 

WIND & SNOW LOAD CALCULATOR FOR HIGH TUNNEL GREENHOUSE

MAINTAINING YOUR HOOP HOUSE GREENHOUSE

Ridge Poles and Purlins for Exceptionally Strong Hoop House Structures

This all important step in the build process is one where you must be careful because the majority of the work will be done up on a ladder or some kind of lift. Having a few extra sets of hands during this step is incredibly helpful. Holding the ladder steady, handing you dropped hardware, and keeping an eye on the straightness of the pole as you install it are all jobs best done by someone on the ground. 

As you get towards the end of the installation you may see some slight wavering of the ridge pole as it connects to each hoop. It is ok for there to be some slight variation here as long as the hoops are four feet apart and the connections are tight. If you are adding a purlin kit to your build keeping a magnetic level in place as you tighten each connection will give you the straightest, most secure attachments. 

Once this step is complete you will be able to see just how secure your structure is becoming. The additional points of connection between each hoop as you add hip and base braces in the next steps will further increase this stability. Once the plastic is installed over your entire hoop house, the tiny imperfections allowed will become nearly invisible. 

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Properly installed ground posts are literally the foundation of any hoop house build. The importance of having the right tools for the job and knowing what mistakes to avoid cannot be overstated. After designing and building quite a few of these over the years here at Bootstrap Farmer, we have some tips for squaring up a hoop house structure properly. 

Making sure that your first four corner posts are squared will provide you with a base to work from to ensure the rest of the posts are easy to install plumb and level. We advise you to square and sink those corner posts before everyone has arrived to help you with the hoop house build. Because the process can be time consuming and occasionally frustrating it is nice to not have a crew watching you while you try to get it right. Using the correct tools to sink your posts will make the rest of the build go much smoother. We suggest having the following tools on hand when you start the process.

• Ground post driver
• Sledge hammer/double jack
• Single jack (a smaller sledge hammer with a handle under two feet in length)
• Tape measures; ideally at least one that will measure the entire length of the diagonal between corner posts. 
• Levels; a line level and a magnetic level. 
• Mason line
• Stakes 
• Pencil, paper, and a calculator

Using a Ground Post Driver 

Every kit we sell comes with a specialized tool called a ground post driver. It is placed in the top of the post to keep it from mushrooming when you hit it with a sledge hammer. Because the hoops will be slid into the ground posts it is vital that they stay perfectly round. We find it easier to start this process using a single jack as opposed to a larger double jack/sledge hammer. 

Installing Ground Posts

Using a magnetic level will help tremendously to keep your posts perpendicular to the ground as you drive them in. Place the ground post driver into the top of your ground post and drive it in using your small sledge hammer. Every few pounds, stop and check for level on two sides. The farther in you drive the post the less it will try and wiggle out of level. 

Driving the ground posts is the most physically demanding task in a hoop house build and there are a lot of them. This task can be spread out over a couple days or over a few people. As long as each person understands the importance of keeping the posts plumb and perpendicular to the ground. Make sure you also put in a mason line two feet off the ground so everyone knows how deep to drive the posts for the hoop house. Need a visual? Watch this video to view the process step by step.

Squaring a Hoop House

There are a few main strategies people use to square up all the sides of a hoop house. The pythagorean theorem is the easiest for many people as we have some vague memories of having to do this in high school. The other methods involve walking back and forth quite a bit. 

For some people it is easier to watch this done instead of reading about it. If this is you please check out our video on How to Square a Hoop House over on YouTube.

If the method we explain here does not make sense to you, searching for “how to square a shed” or “how to square a greenhouse or high tunnel” online will provide you with videos of people doing this in a variety of ways. 

Using the Pythagorean Theorem to Square a Hoop House

The old A²+B²=C² comes in very handy when you start building a foundation that needs to be squared. It allows you to take the known side lengths of your building and find the exact measurement for the diagonals. For example; if you are building a 100’ by 20’ hoop house, 100²+20²=10,400. This means if we take the square root of our C²(10,400’) we get 101.98 or about 102’. 

You can then take those measurements and place your ground posts precisely where they need to be by measuring and marking where the sides and diagonals should intersect. Stakes and mason line come in very handy in this step. You are making a triangle with a right angle where the 100’ and 20’ measurements intersect. 

Starting by sinking a post at one corner. Extend your mason line in two directions beyond where your walls will go perpendicular to each other and stake  in place. Mark the line at 100’ on one side and 20’ on the other. Sink your second post at the 100’ mark.   Using a third length of mason line, attach it to the second post, measure and mark this piece at 102’ for the diagonal. Walk it over to your 20’ marked piece of line. The point where the marks line up is where you will sink your third post.

Keep in mind that mason line can stretch slightly so it will be important to double check all of your measurements once the lines are in place. We suggest driving the posts in only a few inches until you have double checked all of your measurements. Once you are sure everything is square, drive the posts in to the proper height. You will now be able to use the first four posts to keep the other posts plumb as you drive them. 

You can be up to 4 inches off in this process and not affect the overall build. So if those last few inches are giving you fits after walking back and forth a few dozen times, feel free to call it good enough. 

Watch the Video:

Checking for Plumb When Placing Your Ground Posts

Use the first four corner posts you drove to attach a mason line all the way around the outside footprint of your structure. If it makes it easier for you and your helpers, you can put a line that runs on the inside of each post as well. Use these lines to keep each row of posts in line with one another. These lines will also help you when building your end walls for the hoop house. 

Drilling the Ground Posts for Drainage

Once you have all of your ground posts driven to the correct depth, you will need to go around and drill a drainage hole in each one a few inches above the soil line. As water condenses on the plastic and runs down inside the hoop house it can fill up the ground posts. If this water then freezes, it can damage the posts. Even if you don’t have hard freezes where you are, it is best to drill these holes as leaving water in the posts will increase the chances of rust developing.  

Using concrete to secure ground posts

It is possible to secure your ground posts with the help of cement. This technique takes a bit more prep work. First, dig the ground post hole with a diameter about three times the width of the ground post. Add about 4-6 inches of gravel to the bottom of the hole and compact it. Set the post using a level to check for plumb. Fill the hole with fast-setting concrete up to 3-4 inches below ground level and add water per directions. Let the concrete set for 24 hours before setting hoops.

Using compacted gravel to secure ground posts

Backfilling the ground post hole with gravel is a great way to add more strength. Start with a hole about the size of the one you'd dig if you were using cement to fill the space around the ground post, insert a third of the post's length into the hole, and then fill with crushed gravel, tamping every four-five inches until flush with the ground.

Getting Your High Tunnel Right From the Ground Up

Your ground posts are the foundation of your build. Making them square, plumb and level will give you the best base to work from. Getting the squaring done ahead of your first big build day will ensure you are not sitting around trying to do math with everyone watching and waiting. 

Check out Ground Posts and Hoops to learn how ground posts and hoops work together to form the hoop houses.

Having the right tools around to do this job is invaluable. Having a few extra won’t hurt either. It always amazes us how we can bring seven tape measures to a job and there will inevitably come a point where we can’t find a single one. 

Take your time to get these steps right and you will have set yourself up for a successful build. Need more help? Check out our building guides.

What is the best floor to have in a greenhouse?

You will want to read this before you decide what to install as your hoop house floor! Learn about different ways to increase drainage and mitigate flooding issues with your greenhouse floor choices. There are a wide variety of options when it comes to flooring in a hoop house and each has its own pluses and minuses. 

There are also a few things to consider that will apply no matter what type of flooring you choose. Grading, weed management and runoff mitigation should be considered before you build. Working space in front of doors inside and out should also be part of your floor planning. It will keep you from having to trudge through puddles on your way to care for your plants in the hoop house.

Keep in mind if you will be using an NRCS High Tunnel Grant that they require you to grow in ground or in raised beds no higher than 12 inches. Flooring materials for pathways may need to be approved by your local agent in order to be in compliance with regulations. 

Grading for Hoop House Structures

As we discussed in our article on preparing your site for the build, we highly recommend grading the build site for your hoop house before you build. Anytime you have a slope that is more than 5° over 100 feet of length it will interfere with your build process. This is also an excellent time to plan on preparing any trenches you will need to mitigate flooding issues or standing water.  

Preventing Weeds From Encroaching in Your Hoop House

Regardless of which type of greenhouse flooring options you will be using, we highly recommend installing landscape fabric along the perimeter of your structure. You will lay the fabric and secure with fabric pins and then put your ground posts in directly through it. This will control weeds, keeping them away from your edges and give you a few feet of space inside and out to avoid damaging the plastic when you weed whack or mow around the hoop house. 

A handheld propane torch works very well for creating holes for the ground posts to go through. By burning the landscape fabric instead of cutting it, you get a nicely sized round hole with edges that will not fray. Make sure you are wearing thick flame resistant gloves for this step and that you have a hose with a sprayer attachment handy to put out stray flames. Check out this video for a step by step tutorial on this process. Also check out the Ultimate Guide to Ground Covers on the Farm for more information about landscape fabric.

Flooring Options for Hoop Houses

There are a few materials that are commonly used for flooring in hoop houses or high tunnels. The best choice for you will depend on your growing methods and the crops you are planning for. If you will be using some type of rock it is best to lay landscape fabric underneath to prevent weed growth. 

• Compacted/Crushed rock - Good surface for hydroponics, grow bags, and tabletop growing. Easy to rake and drains well. Read more about the benefits of grow bags here.
• Pea Gravel - Drains well and provides a relatively comfortable working surface for hoop houses using hydroponic systems or propagation tables. Weeds can take root after a few seasons. 
• Soil - May need significant time before building to mitigate weeds with silage tarp and amend. Highly recommended that you get a soil test and amend before you build. 
• Raised Beds - Great for increasing drainage and keeping growing zones distinct from pathways. Landscape fabric and mulch can be used between beds for ease of work.  
• Concrete - A viable option for propagation tunnels and hydroponic systems. Can be costly and some water pooling may occur. It is also hard on your body to be on this type of floor all day.  
• Wood Floors - Not recommended as the wood will eventually be damaged by moisture and weeds can grow up between the floorboards. 
• Landscape fabric - Can be used on its own as a flooring material but it can get squishy when wet. It can also be tricky to rake out after pruning or harvesting. 

Mulching in a Hoop House

If you will be using existing soil, grow bags, or raised beds to grow in, mulching your pathways will help tremendously to keep weeds down and give you a relatively dry surface to walk on and is easy to install. Mulching is allowed by NRCS grants as it helps to build soil and sequester carbon. Mulch type greenhouse flooring will need to be reapplied periodically as it breaks down. 

Particularly if you will be growing in raised beds it is helpful to lay landscape fabric under your mulch to mitigate weeds. Use this method if you will be keeping the rows in the same place season after season. If you will be rotating beds or haven’t decided on your final plan for the interior you can lay fabric on the paths later. We still recommend putting fabric around the exterior before you build. 

Mitigating Flooding Issues Around a Hoop House Style Greenhouse

The placement of your hoop house and the surrounding landscape will factor into what types of mitigation you will need. Starting with an even greenhouse floor surface within the house will help to keep puddling from occurring in your work space. Because hoop houses are generally high traffic areas it is good to start with the floors on the interior higher than the surrounding landscape. Adding mulch, gravel or raised beds will all assist in this process. 

If your house is on a hill or in a low area of the farm you may need to plan for trenches or french drains to help with run off. French drains around the exterior of your hoop house will help prevent flooding inside the house as well as diverting runoff from the structure during rain storms. If your property has natural slopes that directs water towards your build site, you may want to consider installing some type of diversion dam to prevent water from flowing in.  

Consider All Your Options and Needs Before you Choose Your Flooring Material

How you plan to grow in your hoop house as well as grant requirements and existing water issues on your farm will all inform the best choice of flooring for your hoop house. It is also important to consider working comfort and ease when making the decision. It may be that a combination of materials works best for you. 

For example; you may find that having a three foot wide section of crushed rock just inside the endwalls with raised beds throughout the remaining space provides you with an easy place to store tools and move equipment around. This is particularly helpful with vining crops if you are using the Lower and Lean method. Check with your NRCS agent before you use anything other greenhouse flooring other than soil and mulch inside your structure. 

Alternatively if your house will mainly be used for propagation on tables, you may find that landscape fabric and rock are better for drainage. For more permanent greenhouse style growing in containers or tables, installing concrete may be worth it to ensure your feet are always up and out of possible puddles. 

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Depending on where you are from, hip boards and baseboards in a hoop house may go by a different name. We have heard them called braces or ribbon boards as well. In the case of our all metal greenhouse kits, we don’t use boards at all but metal hat channels. This hat channel is used as the lateral support both at the base of your structure and at the “hip,” which can be anywhere from three to six feet off the ground. 

The Functions of Baseboards and Hip Boards in Building a Hoop House Style Greenhouse

Baseboards serve a number of functions in your structure. They connect all of the hoops together at the ground post which keeps them from flexing. This also helps keep the ground posts in line and level even as ground saturation levels change. The baseboard is also the attachment point for your plastic securing system, whether that will be lock channel and spring wire or batten boards. 

If you will be putting any kind of fill inside your hoop house whether it is gravel, mulch or compost, the baseboards will help keep it inside the house. They will also protect the plastic and insect netting from any pokey bits in your fill that could cause small tears. 

Hip boards or braces likewise have a number of jobs to fulfill. They act as an important structural element to prevent hoops from shifting over time. Hip braces are also going to be the “top” of your roll up sides. If you will be using lock channel, which we always recommend, you can use this to attach shade cloth as well as acting as an additional attachment point to keep your 6 mil greenhouse plastic secure. 

Why do Bootstrap Farmer All-Metal Hoop House Kits Use Hat Channel?

There are a few reasons that we chose to use metal hat channels in our kits. 

1. The metal channel is strong and corrosion resistant. It will not require eventual replacement like wooden boards will. 
2. When connecting hat channel to the hoops and ground posts there are two screws at each connection point. This prevents any pivoting that can happen when a single screw is used as is frequently the case with wooden boards. 
3. The hat channel provides the perfect base for attaching the lock channel.
4. The hat channel is raised from the level of the hoops making it easier to splice and prevent the plastic from rubbing on connection points. 

Check out this video for a visual of how the hat channels work.

How High Off of the Ground Should the Hip Boards Be in a High Tunnel Greenhouse?

Hip boards can be placed between three and six feet off the ground. For a shorter, narrower high tunnel placing the hip board about three feet above your baseboards will work well. 

If you live in an area with high daytime temperatures and will be relying on roll up sides for ventilation, having them higher will give you greater airflow in your high tunnel. Wider, taller structures can support the hip braces being placed higher up on the side walls. 

If your hoop house style greenhouse kit specifies a height for your hip board, know that there is some wiggle room in this measurement. However, it may affect the overall stability of the structure if they are placed too far above or below the recommended height. 

Installation Tips for Attaching Hip Braces and Baseboards to Your Hoop House 

Do one row at a time so you are not trying to keep track of multiple levels at a time. For efficiency's sake, have someone go along and lay out all of the pieces of hat channel (or board) and lock channel you will need for that row ahead of you for the hoop house build. This will keep you from having to walk back and forth or get up off the ground every time you need more. 

We recommend starting with the hip braces. Start by cutting two feet off of your first piece of hat channel. Because the hoop spacing on our kits is four foot on center, if you do not cut the first piece you will be trying to splice the lengths at the hoop attachment point which is a little more difficult. 

Keep the lock channel lengths as they are until you cut the final piece at the end. This ensures that your splices will all be offset and increases the overall security of the structure. When you are building the hip braces on one of our kits you will be putting up the hat channel and lock channel at the same time.

Do You Have Enough Clamps on Hand to Build Your Hoop House?

Using clamps to hold your braces and lock channel in place and level as you attach them is ideal. Even if you have extra hands around to hold the materials for you, it will save fatigue and frustration to clamp. We recommend you have a minimum of four clamps on hand for this. Two to hold the brace to the hoops and two to hold the splices together as you drill. 

Clamps with rubber covers on the clamp surface hold more securely and protect the metal you are working with. Bar clamps and larger spring style clamps will both work here and you may find that having both on hand is helpful for different sections. Read Prequel to Building Your First Hoop House for a list of tools needed for the job.

Splicing Hip Braces and Baseboards 

Splices in hip braces and baseboards should be facing the inside of the hoop house regardless if you are using steel hat channel or wood. This protects the plastic from rubbing on the splices and creating possible tears over time. It also prevents the splices from interfering with lock channel installation. Screw together from the outside of the house so that there are no sharp screw tips to poke your plastic. Splices should be at least 8”-12” in length. 

If you are building one of our All-Metal Kits the splices are made of 10” lengths of square tubing. The hat channel will slide between the lock channel overhang and the splice. You will clamp the splice, hat channel and lock channel together and screw through all three layers at once. 

Base Your Hoop House with Strength 

Because hip braces and baseboards have so many functions to fulfill in your build it is important that they be installed correctly. Level boards, strong splices and carefully placed screws will make attaching the plastic and optional rollup sides much smoother. Having a few good sets of clamps will make this whole process go much faster and easier. Make the most of your time and help by planning for efficiencies of labor. Lay out the materials ahead of each step. If you have enough people and drills on hand, you can work on both sides of the hoop house at the same time. 

Watch the Video:

Using the Right Materials to Build Your Hoop House

Before you get ready to build a DIY hoop house, we recommend you get a good grasp on what materials are best for the build. Read about the pros and cons of different building materials that are used to create DIY backyard greenhouses, high tunnels, and hoop houses. Learn about the different types of maintenance that will be required for hoop houses constructed from various materials. Decide what materials you want to use for your hoop house project. 

Watch this video where we discuss many of the common building materials used to build a hoop house.

What are the Best Hoop House Options?

There are a few common hoop house greenhouse building materials considered for the construction of DIY hoop houses. There are benefits and detriments to each material for building a hoop house. Hoops are made from either metal or PVC pipes. Hoop house hip boards and baseboards can be made from metal or various types of wood. The structure is then covered by UV stabilized hoop house plastic.

Using PVC Pipes to Build a High Tunnel

PVC pipe is made from polyvinyl chloride. It is commonly used for both electrical applications and cold water supply lines. PVC pipe is not a terribly strong material and is prone to bending when exposed to heat. The main reason people choose to use  PVC pipe when building a high tunnel or hoop house is the low cost associated with the material.   

When used for building a hoop house or any other application where it will be covered with the plastic it must be painted. PVC pipe and plastic are not compatible materials. PVC will degrade the plastic when exposed to UV rays. Using PVC directly against polyethylene plastic will void the warranty on your plastic. 

Using EMT to Build a Greenhouse

EMT or electrical metallic tubing comes in narrower sizes than fencing or rolled pipe. It is also a different strength of the metal. It contains more lead to make it malleable since it is used in building houses where the tubing may need to be bent to make multiple 90 degree turns. EMT tubing can be a valid choice for smaller hoop house structures but will be extremely flexible in hoop house structures over 10’ wide.

Building a Hoop House with Top Rail

Top rail is named for its use as the top rail of chain link fencing. These are typically sold in 10’ 6” pieces that are swagged on one end to fit easily into each other. The top rail fencing sold at most big box stores can vary in gauge. We have seen 17 and 18 gauge sold but nothing as strong as 16 gauge rolled steel pipes like those used to build our all inclusive All-Metall Greenhouse Kits. 

Top rail is a good choice for many DIY projects as it makes a nice compromise between price and quality. For a hoop house or a greenhouse under 20’ in width, it is strong enough to withstand a decent amount of snow and wind load. 

Rolled Steel Tubes for Building Hoops and Ridge Poles

Pipes made from 16 gauge, or stronger, rolled steel are the high strength, high-quality choice for building hoops and ridge poles in any hoop house. Particularly for those 20 feet or more in width, stronger steel is better.  

Bending Your Own Hoops for a DIY Greenhouse Build

If you will be bending your own hoops for your build you can either build a jig or use a specialized tool like our heavy-duty hoop bender. Any of the materials listed above can be used to make hoops to support greenhouse plastic but top rail fencing or rolled steel tubing are the best choices. For more information on bending different hoop house widths, you can read this article from our blog on Bending DIY Hoops.

PVC Pipes for Hoops

• STRENGTH greatly reduced by UV exposure
• Heavy and sustained winds can push a PVC structure to failure.
• Compounded expenses later in the cost and time to rebuild the structure

*Bootstrap Farmer recognizes the need to start on a strict budget but encourages anyone considering this route to do their research.

Electrical Metallic Tubing for Building Hoops

• The thin walls of this material do not give you a lot of strength to work with.
• EMT makes great individual bed covers for microclimates
• Best for smaller projects

Bootstrap Farmer All Metal Pre-bent Hoop House Kits

• Stronger gauge metal than available top rail fencing
• Double galvanized, zinc coating, and proprietary coating from Flo-Coat® 

* Up to 5X the corrosion resistance of cheaper metals

Types of Woods Used in Building Hoop Houses

Many DIY hoop houses use wood for baseboards and hip boards as well as endwalls and doors. Any wood used in hoop house style greenhouses is going to be exposed to moisture and extreme temperatures. Depending on your location the types listed below may be easier or more difficult to access. We DO NOT recommend using pine if you can avoid it. Likewise, plywood is not designed for outdoor exposure and will break down much faster than expected due to moisture dissolving the glue. 

Cedar 

All types of cedar will hold up well under elements. It is insect resistant and stands up to water relatively well.

Redwood 

This is extremely good for use with constant moisture exposure. It is also insect resistant and long-lasting. Redwood can be difficult to find and expensive outside the west coast. 

Cypress 

Many types of cypress hold up well, similar to cedar, and are sometimes available in areas where the other types are not common. 

Pressure-treated lumber 

Treated lumber is water and insect-resistant. Most people avoid using it near growing food or play structures because of chemical leakage.

When Using Lumber on Your Hoop House Build Ongoing Maintenance is Required 

Depending on the materials you use, ongoing maintenance may be required. If you use lumber for parts of your structure it will eventually need to be replaced. No matter which type of wood you choose, if it is in a moist environment it will rot over time. You will need to remove your plastic and your lock channel in order to replace the lumber. 

Read this article on Hoop House Maintenance including caring for your greenhouse plastic and other routine maintenance.

Comparing Greenhouse Kits Based on Strength of Materials

As we discussed in Are You Ready to Buy a Hoop House, there are several factors that can be tricky to compare kits from different companies. It is important to consider the strength and reliability of the materials when comparing kits. One hoop house kit may be less expensive using a weaker gauge of steel while another may be priced slightly higher but provide extra strength in materials. 

Building Materials Not Included in a Hoop House Kit

When purchasing any kit but particularly a DIY kit is vital to confirm which items are included vs. which will need to be purchased locally. Many kits do not include the hip and baseboards. You can choose to build these from lumber or purchase metal hat channels to complete these. Some kits will include all of the hardware that you need while others will just provide a list for you to purchase. 

Building Solid Endwalls

Some people choose to add solid endwalls to their DIY hoop houses using polycarbonate sheeting, corrugated metal or lumber or by buying premade kits. If you will be building solid end walls for your hoop house we highly recommend using materials that will stand the test of time. Using the best materials you can afford will reduce maintenance costs and labor over the long term. 

Hardware Needed for Hoop Houses

We recommend using hardware that is the same as the material you will be building your hoops from or at the least has similar corrosion resistance. Galvanized or zinc-coated is best. If you buy a kit from us the galvanized hardware is included. The hoop house will flex in the wind so the shear strength of your hardware is important.

Build the Best DIY Greenhouse that You can Afford   

Anytime you are adding a new structure to your farm there will be a dance between cost and quality of materials. We always recommend building with the strongest materials you can afford. Using a smaller DIY kit to help your farm scale up and then adding a larger stronger greenhouse later is always a possibility. Do the best you can with what you have available and think about upfront costs vs. the cost of materials and labor down the road to fix possible issues that can arise with lower grade materials. Want to learn more about building a hoop house. Check out Top 5 Reasons Why You Should Build a Hoop House Style Greenhouse.

Insect netting is a protective barrier mesh usually made of woven poly. It is meant to exclude pests from valuable market crops, trees, and flowers. Pests can cause direct damage to the leaves and the fruits of crops, cause disease, and lead to lower yields.

Insect netting is designed to keep out pests, while still allowing for proper airflow and water permeability through the small mesh openings. The netting provides protection from insects, deer and rodents, and damage from excessive weather like hail.

The mesh size varies between brands and is typically chosen depending on the insect that you wish to exclude or what pests are common in your area. Mesh is measured by the number of holes in one linear inch of the netting. A common size used for row crops is between 40 and 50 mesh. Here at Bootstrap Farmer we stock a 50 mesh that is effective at excluding insects as small as 0.25 mm in size. 

INSECT NETTING FEATURES

Insect netting protects plants by exclusion. Some nettings can also contain additives that help to increase their effectiveness against pests. Newer types of mesh netting can include optical additives such as aluminum strips for light reflection. Insect netting allows for increased airflow compared to plastic while still protecting plants. When using insect netting as a row cover, water from rain and overhead sprinklers is still able to reach plants. 

PREVENT THRIPS FROM PENETRATING THE NETTING

The sidewall insect netting that we carry here at Bootstrap Farmer contains patented technology developed by a manufacturing process that adds various additives to the net to block and reflect UV radiation. The additives in this netting reflect and blind the insects before they can reach the netting. In addition, the mesh provides a barrier for any pests that make it past the UV barrier. 

• 0.78 X 0.25 mm holes
• Optical protection
• 5 year UV resistance
• Protects against whiteflies, aphids, fruit flies and leaf miners

This type of technology acts as an added layer of defense for your plants without the use of harmful pesticides. Aluminum strips are added to netting to act as another layer of defense. The strips diffuse the light, which blinds the pests before they can penetrate the netting.

This reflective feature also cools the plants with shade and light diffusion. UV stabilizing and anti-dust additives are added to protect the netting from degradation. The same additives are also added to high-quality poly plastic greenhouse coverings.

KEEPING BENEFICIAL INSECTS IN YOUR GREENHOUSE

Insect netting can also be used to keep beneficial insects inside your greenhouse or hoop house. Some insect infestations, like spider mites and aphids, can be controlled by intentionally placing insect predators inside your growing space. Both ladybugs and green lacewing larvae are excellent at controlling infestations of soft bodied insects. However the adult form of both of these lovely and helpful predators will fly away if habitat is not ideal. 

Lining any ventilation in your hoop house with insect netting will prevent the adults from flying away and keep them feeding and laying eggs where you need them. Many of the adult forms of beneficial insects require access to pollen and nectar in order to breed. If you want them to produce additional generations within your greenhouse you will need to provide this forage. To learn more about The Importance of Beneficial Insects for Your Greenhouse check out this recent article from the content team at Bootstrap Farmer. 

Plant Protection for Hoop Houses and Greenhouses

Insect netting can be installed in a greenhouse using a spring and lock channel system to provide a mesh screen with a neat edge at any openings such as vents, doors, and sidewalls. It can also be used to create screen doors for additional ventilation. Covering vents with netting allows your plants to get the increased airflow they need while still being protected from pests. 

Install the netting on the inside of the structure, from the baseboards to the hipboards  as part of a vented sidewall for effective barrier blocks. When installed on the sidewalls, the crank will roll up the plastic to allow air flow ventilation while the screen of the mesh remains to exclude insects for plant protection. Sidewall insect netting is available in multiple lengths to fit your greenhouse size. 

Protecting Row Crops with Mesh Netting

Insects weaken and damage market crops. Adding mesh insect netting into your operation's pest management program can help lower or even eliminate the need for chemical insecticides for plant protection. This means increased production levels for your farm and more perfect produce for your customers. 

Netting is laid out over rows and anchored with sand bags or rocks while avoiding any gaps for insects to penetrate. While the netting is light enough to be applied directly on top of crops, row cover support hoops can be added for better results. 

When should insect netting be installed?

Insect netting should be installed as early in the season as possible. This maximizes the protection while limiting the possibility of accidentally trapping insect pests in with your valuable crops. 

In many cases the netting is applied as soon as the crops have sprouted or immediately after transplanting. In this way they are protected during the important vegetative growth phase and the netting can be removed once the plants begin to flower. Removing the netting as flower production begins allows for proper pollination of crops and increases the likelihood of beneficial insects arriving before pests do. 

Using Insect Netting for Seed Production

Insect netting can also be used to contain pollinators and beneficial insects within a row. This is helpful for those growing for seed production as cross-pollination is less likely. In order for this to work properly it is best to create hoops that provide flying room over the crops you wish to pollinate and introduce pollinators to the covered row. 

Alternatively you can cover all rows of related species except the one you wish to save seed from for a week and then switch the coverage to the row you will be saving. This helps ensure that saved seeds are less likely to be cross pollinated while you are waiting for seed heads to develop.  

USING HOOPS TO INSTALL INSECT NETTING

Row cover support hoops help to keep the insect netting secure and snug on the rows. The added structure helps during the season as you are continuously removing and replacing the netting during harvest and regular weeding. They act as a guide for the netting while protecting the plants against netting snags and plant damage.

Small hoops can be made out of fiberglass or a heavy-gauge wire. They are designed to stick into the dirt on either side of the row, in an arch shape. The hoops provide structure for the netting to rest, preventing damage as the netting and the plants have a buffer. For larger scale plant protection hoops can be made from ½ inch or ¾ inch EMT tubing using one of our hoop benders. Row covers and insect netting can then be secured using our snap on clamps. Take care to bring the netting completely to the ground and anchor at the bottom with rocks, mulch or sand bags to prevent pests from sneaking in the gaps.

Cover your plants against insect damage

Using row covers like insect netting or frost blankets will help reduce plant diseases that are spread by insects as well as ensure blemish free vegetables and flowers. Applying covers at the right stage of growth will give your crops the best protection you can offer. These covers are easy to apply and can be folded away and stored during the off season for years of use. Properly used row covers make an excellent addition to your farms IPM (Integrated Pest Management) strategy. For more information on using covers on the farm read the Ultimate Guide to Ground Covers on the Farm.

The difference between a caterpillar tunnel and a high tunnel comes down to three things- permanence, structural soundness, and budget. Both structures have their place in the gardening world, but they have sharp differences that need to be accounted for by the grower.

Using covered growing spaces for season extension is a time honored, low cost practice that extends the growing season for farmers and gardeners in almost any growing zone. While greenhouses are often expensive infrastructure and cold frames are too small for market gardeners, tunnels are a happy medium that offer multiple opportunities. 

• Fall planted cool season annuals for early flower production
• Protected early Spring greens for first to market possibilities
• Extended harvests in the heat of the Summer using shade cloth
• Added degrees of protection in late Fall for specialty holiday meal crops

The caterpillar tunnel received its name because of its close resemblance to a caterpillar. It has segmented sections and cone-shaped ends that hug the ground at either end, usually held together by a stake and rope. The plastic is secured down by side-to-side crisscrossing nylon rope anchored to the base of each pole (where they touch the ground). It does not have built-in endwalls and is considered a temporary/movable option, allowing it to be one of the cheapest and quickest options. Many market gardeners use it as a starting point, often than later converting the caterpillar tunnel into a high tunnel greenhouse. 

A high tunnel or hoop house, on the other hand, does have endwalls, doors, and sidewalls. Instead of a rope system, the structure is secured by metal base and hip board, side-braces, and purlins. The hoop house is then anchored to the ground by heavy-duty metal ground posts. The plastic is secured by metal lock channel and PVC spring wire, giving more stability and reliability. With the installation of hand cranks, the plastic sidewalls are often made to roll up and down, allowing for easy ventilation. This type of infrastructure is an investment meant to last for many years as they are a more durable, long-lasting option. Read Prequel to Building Your First Hoop House to learn more about how to build hoop houses.

Greenhouse coverings for use with caterpillar tunnels and high tunnels. 

There are a variety of options when it comes to covering your hoop building. The four most popular greenhouse coverings are:

• UVA protected 6 mil. plastic sheeting
• Frost blankets
• Insect netting
• Shade cloth

How much do caterpillar tunnels cost?

A basic caterpillar tunnel can usually be built for around $1.00 per square foot. This reflects the recent dramatic increases in raw materials costs that we have seen across industry since the pandemic has caused shortages and shipping delays. In the recent past it was possible to build one of these for closer to $0.55 per square foot and we are hopeful that prices could return to this level in the next year or two. Their low cost is one of the reasons caterpillar tunnels are often a grower’s first foray into protected growing space. 

How much do high tunnels cost?

A DIY hoop house kit can be an affordable starting point for many farms for season extension. A basic kit can be purchased for under $500 to be built with materials from your local hardware store. If you are looking for a more heavy-duty all-metal hoop house, you can buy all inclusive kits like the Bootstrap Farmer All-metal Greenhouse kits, without any need to get supplies from your local big box store. 

Due to the reliability of these structures the USDA has put into place a grant program to help alleviate the investment costs of adding hoop houses to a farm’s operation. This program is called the NRCS High Tunnel Initiative and qualifying hoop houses are funded by this program for many growers around the country. Because this piece of infrastructure can sustainably extend the growing season for many farmers it helps increase food security. Because it improves and protects soil conditions it is supported by funds set aside for soil conservation. 

How does a caterpillar tunnel work?

Cat tunnels are deployed with the help of a rope system, often anchored by a t-post or sand bags. Instead of a purlin system, this tension rope technique offers the structure its form at a lower cost and a more mobile design. This is why this style of growing structure is popular amongst startups and with those not needing heavier duty infrastructure. The main downside is that without the structural soundness of a purlin kit or ground posts, the plants you are protecting could be damaged by impaling winds and weather if wind were to grab the insecure structure. Taking care to select the right location for your structure, away from obstructions and protected from winds will also help mitigate this risk. Read Ideal Orientation and Location to learn more about what direction to face your hoop house or greenhouse.

What do you need to build a caterpillar tunnel?

You will need pipes to build your hoops, either EMT(Electrical Metallic Tubing) or PVC. Rebar to use as ground anchors for your hoops. Rope or strapping to attach the hoops to each other and to secure your greenhouse covering to the hoops. You can also use special greenhouse clips designed for PVC or EMT to attach your greenhouse covering. 

Since caterpillar tunnels are essentially a low hoop house without doors, the ends of your tunnel require little more than a smooth rock and some rope to gather the ends of the plastic covering and weigh it down.

Hoop building for a homemade caterpillar tunnel

Hoops built with PVC are typically just slid over rebar anchors at both ends to make the hoop shape. It is best to do this part on a warm sunny day as the heat makes the pipes more malleable. This malleability is also what makes tunnels made from PVC weaker overall hoop structures. 

For EMT hoop buildings you will need to bend the hoops prior to building. You can use a homemade jig or purchase a hoop bender designed to create hoops the exact width you need. Before you start bending your own hoops, check out this article in our Building a Greenhouse blog. 

What are caterpillar tunnels used for?

Caterpillar tunnels in their simplest form are structures used for season extension as a temporary covered growing space for crops in production. They are often used to warm soil temperatures to prepare for spring planting. Flower farmers plant their early bulbs under caterpillar tunnels to get a jump start in order to bring their flowers to market sooner. Vegetable growers take advantage of the cover and warmer soil temps both early and late in the season for their production. 

Tunnels covered with frost blanket are often used to continue growing frost hardy plants through the Winter months. Vegetable crops like kale and broccoli that will be harvestable in the cold can be protected from snow in this way so that you can access them for harvest. For flower farmers, planting cool season annuals like snapdragons and bachelor buttons in the Fall and covering them with low tunnels allows the plants to develop roots through the Winter and be ready to take off as soon as the weather warms. 

Caterpillar tunnels covered with shade cloth are used in the hotter months to protect tender crops from excess heat. They are also used in this way to protect fruiting crops like tomatoes and cucumbers from sunscald.  

How to anchor a caterpillar tunnel

Caterpillar tunnels can be anchored with rebar, ground posts, sandbags or with a rope system secured with a t-post. This method will be dependent on the permanence you desire from the structure. One of the advantages a caterpillar tunnel offers is its easy disassembly. This allows farmers to use the structure temporarily in one place with the ability to move it when no longer its need is no longer warranted. If the grower prefers to make their caterpillar tunnel more of a permanent structure they can add rebar or ground posts to create more of a hybrid caterpillar hoop house structure.

How to Reduce the Chance of Wind Damage to a Caterpillar Tunnel

A great way to reduce wind damage to a caterpillar tunnel is to securely attach the plastic. You may want to consider adding base and hip boards to your structure. This will eliminate the danger of the wind lifting the structure. You may also want to consider installing ground posts to the structure. Caterpillar tunnels are often vulnerable to wind because of the “parachute” effect that occurs when wind gets under the structure so it is important to have it anchored to the ground.

What can I grow in a caterpillar tunnel?

Caterpillar tunnels can be used for season extension or to allow you to start your season just a bit earlier. They work well for warming the ground for earlier planting and to protect new plants from late spring frosts. While they offer a great temporary protection, their basic design can succumb to winds and snow leaving your plants vulnerable to the elements if a failure occurs. The simple rope system is sometimes not a match for extreme weather. This is why we only recommend them for season extension and for warming the ground for earlier planting. 

What can I grow in a high tunnel?

A high tunnel gives the grower more assurance to grow later into the season. The durability of the metal frame is enough to protect from snow and wind that sometimes comes with the fall season. Vegetable crops and flowers have ample space and protection under a tunnel. Read Top 5 Reasons Why You Should Build a Hoop House Style Greenhouse for more about the benefits of high tunnels.

How to Convert a Caterpillar Tunnel into a High Tunnel.

Caterpillar tunnels converted to high tunnels are referred to as hybrid structures. They combine features of both the caterpillar tunnel and the high tunnel or hoop house. Some farms upgrade their 'cat' tunnels using ground posts, giving them more height along the sides. Common upgrades include reinforcing the center purlin (from strapping or rope to metal pipes) and adding endwall supports. Modifications often reflect a farmer's budget, preference, and growing conditions. While converting your caterpillar is an option, one might consider if the added cost of shipping parts to modify your past purchase makes sense. Putting an investment toward a more permanent structure from the start will give you the features that you want in one firm price instead of slowly adding at retail along the way. For this reason, we suggest looking at your farm's future needs along with current needs when purchasing infrastructure. 

Shipping a caterpillar tunnel v. high tunnel

Shipping for a caterpillar tunnel and a high tunnel both require the use of freight. They will both need to be packaged on a pallet and delivered unassembled by a freight company. Shipping freight is a pretty straightforward process. Read How to Transport a Hoop House: Everything You Need to Know About Shipping a Hoop House for more about shipping freight with Bootstrap Farmer. 

Should I buy a Caterpillar Tunnel or a Hoop House?

The decision on whether to buy a caterpillar tunnel or hoop house to create a covered growing space really depends on your farm's needs. While the caterpillar does have a smaller startup cost, the stability and reliability of the structure do not meet that of a high tunnel. Both structures need to be shipped freight and both structures require help to build. If you believe you will need something sturdier in place for the future, it might be better to get it right the first time instead of slowly creating more of an investment with add-ons.

To learn more about how farmers and market gardeners are using high tunnels and other covered growing spaces follow us on Instagram and subscribe to our YouTube channel. We love to feature stories about how our customers are rocking it on the farm. 

GUIDE TO GROUND COVERS AND ROW COVERS ON THE FARM

Ground covers and row covers provide protection for crops on the farm in a number of ways. Ground covers allow for chemical-free suppression of weeds, cutting down on maintenance on farms, in gardens, and for use as greenhouse flooring.  They can be used between growing rows of vegetables to protect paths. Ground covers can also be placed under potted plants to prevent weeds from growing up through drainage holes.

Row covers provide protection from erosion, frost, snow, hail, pest pressure; insects, deer and rabbits, as well as high winds that can all be detrimental to crops. They also help warm the soil in preparation for planting, giving the grower a head start to the season. Some farmers use row covers on low caterpillar tunnels to protect prepared beds through the winter for easy Spring planting. 

How to Prevent Weeds Using Ground Covers in the Garden

Ground covers are a protective barrier, often made out of woven polypropylene plastic, that are placed directly onto the ground as a layer of defense for weeds. The two most common types of ground covers used in intensive farming systems are silage tarps and landscape fabric. 

Both types of covers can be held in place using weights like sandbags or by using fabric staples. Fabric staples or pins are best for greenhouse ground cover fabric as they hold the edges firmly throughout the season. While they can be used for silage tarp it is best to avoid poking holes in your silage tarp if possible. 

Preventing Weeds in a Hoop House or Greenhouse

Preventing weeds in a hoop house is usually a multi step process depending on whether you are preparing to build or attempting to remediate weeds in an existing structure. It is highly suggested that you use some type of weed barrier in any permanent pathways as a form of greenhouse flooring to save yourself labor in the long run. Check out this great tutorial that takes you through the process of laying landscape fabric before a hoop house build. 

Within an existing structure you can use landscape ground cover fabric between rows and raised beds to prevent weed growth. Once the fabric has been secured you can easily sweep it out to keep your greenhouse floor tidy.  It can also be used as a weed barrier under-layer when adding additional greenhouse flooring like gravel. 

Before you build a structure you will want to remove any existing weeds using traditional tillage or through the solarization method described below. We also recommend laying plastic ground cover around the perimeter of any high tunnel or greenhouse to prevent weeds from encroaching. This has the added benefit of keeping you from having to use anything like a weed whacker that could cause tears near the greenhouse floor plastic. 

You can check out a video of Bootstrap Farmer’s greenhouse experts reviewing ground cover and flooring options for hoop houses on our YouTube channel here: Hoop House Flooring | HOOP HOUSE 101 Ep9

Silage Tarps for Solarizing Weeds

Silage tarps are made of UV-treated poly plastic. The tarps are often used as a form of weed management. The plastic creates a moist and warm environment, perfect for seed germination. The tarp deprives the new growth of light. The newly emerged seedlings become "leggy" and weak. This method works to exhaust the seedbed of these weeds. After removing the tarp, you can easily cultivate any surviving weeds with a hoe or torch them with a weed burner. Alternatively, the tarp can be left in place as a weed barrier until you are ready to plant an area. 

This method of tarping is an old French farming practice referred to as solarization. It has seen a revival with the help of farmers like Elliot Coleman and Jean-Martin Fortier. Solarization creates a 'stale seedbed' where weeds' seed bank has already been severely depleted before a crop enters the soil. This process controls weed growth in rows by ensuring there are far fewer weeds to begin with. Check out this article for more information on the process.

Uses For Plastic Ground Cover Fabric

The ground cover fabric that Bootstrap Farmer carries is made from woven polypropylene plastic, UV resistant, porous, and durable.  The tightly woven plastic of the Heavy Duty Landscape Fabric works very well for walkways, in high tunnels, as a greenhouse ground cover fabric, and in-between rows. 

Top 5 Ways to Use Plastic Ground Cover on the Farm

1. Garden Mulch
2. Weed Control
3. Flooring
4. Moisture Retention
5. Template for plant spacing (We recommend burning holes instead of cutting to prevent fraying.)  

*A handheld propane torch works very well for creating holes in greenhouse ground cover fabric. By burning the fabric instead of cutting it, you get a nicely sized round hole with edges that will not fray. Make sure you are wearing thick flame resistant gloves for this step and that you have a hose with a sprayer attachment handy to put out stray flames. 

Floating Row Covers for Garden Crop Protection 

Frost blankets are commonly used for protecting plants from cold weather and for pest protection. They are made from spun-bonded polypropylene. The porous design allows air, water, and nutrients to pass through and allows for varying degrees of light transmission.

Frost blankets of 4 oz. weight provide up to 10+ degrees of protection from frost. The thick material only allows for around 40% light transmission. This type of blanket is used to protect cold-hardy crops like brassicas from winter damage. Check out Frost Blanket: How to Use It and When to learn more about this application.

ROW COVERS FOR SEEDLING GERMINATION

Row covers are a lighter, spun-bonded polypropylene cover used to protect plants as they establish. They offer less frost protection but are perfect for germination and light coverage. The material is the same as our heavyweight row cover fabric  used as a frost blanket but comes in 1.5 oz and 2.5 oz options. 

Row covers significantly increase germination rates compared with the use of other mulching techniques like hay or straw. They help maintain even soil moisture throughout the early growing stages. Cover the bed with the fabric after direct seeding and water them in. The fabric helps to retain the moisture level while the new seedlings grow. The cover allows water and air to flow through while helping to retain moisture levels in the seedbed. The fabric also protects from damaging, direct sun exposure.

INSECT NETTING FOR PEST PROTECTION

Insect netting is designed to be a protective barrier for plants against pests. High-quality insect netting is often the first line of defense against pest pressure and can also be a tool for containing beneficial insects and pollinators. Read The Importance of Beneficial Insects for Your Greenhouse for more information on what beneficial insects to consider. Mesh netting comes in different sizes to exclude or contain certain insects. Mesh sizes are measured by the number of holes per linear inch of fabric. 

The insect netting that Bootstrap Farmer offers contains patented technology developed by a manufacturing process that adds various additives to the net to block and reflect UV radiation. The additives in this netting reflect and blind the insects before they can reach the netting. In addition, the mesh provides a barrier for any pests that make it past the UV barrier. This is especially useful in high tunnels with sidewall roll up kits that are installed with sidewall insect netting.

Netting should be installed immediately after transplanting or seeding. Install using row cover support hoops or drape directly onto the plants. Be sure to completely seal the edges of the netting using rocks and soil to prevent gaps. Read Insect Netting for Pest Protection for more information on this application.

Cost-Saving Tips for Protecting Your Crops

Thoughtful use of good quality; floating row covers, plastic ground covers; weed barrier, or path coverings, and insect netting can greatly increase your farm’s production. Both by protecting from natural elements, be they weather or animal, and by decreasing your overall labor hours. 

Proper care and storage of frost blankets, shade cloth, floating row covers, and insect netting will allow for multiple seasons of use. We recommend drying out and folding all coverings before storing them at the end of the season out of direct sunlight.

To learn more about how farmers and market gardeners are using our products follow us on Instagram and subscribe to our YouTube channel. We love to feature stories about how our customers are growing food!

Biological Pest Control with Insects

As more insect pests become resistant to pesticides and previously relied upon pollinators become scarce, native bees, wasps, and other beneficial insects can do the work for us. Attracting beneficial insects to your farm or garden will make your plants more productive, reduce the need to treat pests, beautify the space, and help protect the ecosystem.   

Identifying Beneficial Insects

There are three main types of beneficial insects that can help keep your farm or garden thriving. Pollinators, predators, and parasitic insects are fundamental beneficial insects for maintaining a healthy garden ecosystem. 

Interestingly many of the greatest friends to the farmer will fall into more than one of these categories depending on the life cycle stage they are in. For example, flower flies (family Syrphidae) are important pollinators as adults, but their larvae's value as insect predators cannot be overstated. The larvae of syrphid flies subsist on a steady diet of other insects like aphids.

1. Pollinators: This group includes bees, butterflies, adult flies, moths, and hummingbirds. We depend on these to pollinate all flowering crops.
2. Predators: Eliminate pests from the garden by eating them. Ladybugs, wasps, praying mantises, and green lacewing larvae are some of the most prominent members of this category.
3. Parasitics: Parasitic insects also prey upon other insects. They lay eggs on or in "bad bugs." When the insect eggs hatch, the larvae feed on the host insects, usually causing their demise. Parasitic wasps and several families of flies fall into this category. The wasp larvae and fly larvae eat aphids from the inside out. 

Spiders are helpful predators in the garden.

Although technically arachnids and not insects, spiders deserve mention here. Spiders are fantastic predators on the farm for pest insects. Common garden spiders are excellent at gobbling up pest insects, either by catching them in webs or, in the case of jumping spiders, attacking insect pests on foliage and ground-dwelling prey. 

Attracting Beneficial Insects

The best way to attract beneficial insects to your farm or garden is to provide them with what they need for every stage of their life. These needs include food, water, places to lay their eggs, and habitat, especially for overwintering. 

Food Sources for Beneficial Insects

Early blooming flowers are a great way to set yourself up for success when it comes to attracting beneficials to the garden. Many, like ladybugs, come out of hibernation hungry and looking for a place to lay that all-important first generation of Spring babies. Providing early and ongoing nectar and pollen sources will attract good bugs to your site and keep them there, even when insect prey is scarce. 

Water Sources for Beneficial Bugs

Providing an easy-to-access water source for pollinators and other beneficials in the garden is a great way to attract and keep good bugs around. Some native bees and flies have a minimal daily foraging range. Providing a water source for every half-acre to an acre of cropland will be a boon to all the insects you are looking to draw in.  

Build a Bee Waterer 

A simple bee waterer can be built by placing rocks or marbles in a shallow dish filled with water. Bees can easily fall into even shallow water and drown. The rocks give the insects a place to land while drinking. It also keeps the dish from turning into a birdbath. 

Other easy methods to provide bees water are filling a hummingbird feeder with clean water, placing rocks in an automatic pet water bowl, or purchasing a bee waterer from a beekeeping supply store.  

Habitat for Pollinators and Predatory Insects 

There are three distinct types of habitat that beneficials need to complete their life cycle successfully. Nesting sites, overwintering sites, and forage are all vital. Taking a little time to ensure you provide them all will help keep them on your farm and in your garden. Often this can be as simple as leaving some Fall cleanup tasks undone. Or you can get a little more proactive and put in intentional nesting blocks or stem bundles. 

The books listed at the end of this article have many excellent how-to guides and ideas for providing species-specific nesting sites. Most research on this topic has been focused on bees, but providing these habitat types seems to dramatically increase the numbers of other species, including butterflies and parasitic wasps, parasitic wasp larvae, and flies. 

Egg Laying and Nesting Habitat

About 70% of the native bees in North America are ground nesters. Their various burrows are often mistaken for ant hills. The simplest way to provide nesting sites for ground-dwelling bees is to leave some areas of bare ground unplanted and unmulched. Ideally, this ground should be slightly sloped above any areas that flood in the Winter. East and South facing areas are best as they help the bees and their larvae warm up in the mornings. 

The remaining 30% of native bees are tunnel nesters. Naturally, these valuable pollinators depend on abandoned tunnels left in tree stumps and snags to raise their brood. A few others will chew out the pithy centers of stems. These habitats can be created by drilling holes in wooden blocks and branches or bunching groups of stems. 

Bumblebees are one of the few social native bees. They nest in small cavities like those formed by rodents under grasses or in used birdhouses.  

Overwintering and Pupation habitat

Conveniently most beneficial insects will overwinter and pupate in a similar habitat to their egg-laying preferences. Others need leaf litter, small branches, and dried stems to make it through winter conditions and emerge as adults come Spring. 

Intentionally benign neglect breeds pollinators

Possibly the best news in creating and preserving habitat for native pollinators is that it can be as simple as neglecting to do a few Fall garden "tasks." 

• Choose to leave some areas of bare ground without mulch. 
• Leave dried stems and brambles in place over the Winter. 
• Let piles of leaves sit and break down naturally through the Winter.
• Let grasses and flowering weeds remain untilled in buffer zones and fallow land.
• Leave snags (that don't endanger structures) and stumps in place. 

Provide Forage for Native Insects

Consider planting hedges, buffer zones, or interspersed garden rows with native wildflowers and shrubs. Even a small patch of wildflowers that continues to bloom with different species throughout the seasons will draw in all types of native bees and pollinators. Flowering shrubs and berry bushes have the added benefit of providing overwintering sites, nesting material, and places for butterflies to hang their chrysalis.  

Good Bugs Love Little Flowers

Parasitic wasps and hoverflies are attracted to tiny blossoms. The wasps in particular that you are trying to attract are often so tiny that you won't really notice them. Their minuscule size means that smaller blooms are more accessible for them to feed on and are subject to less competition for food from larger bees and wasps. 

If you have ever watched the number of tiny flitting creatures that are attracted to bolting cilantro or carrot flowers, you have seen some of these lovely little workhorses of the garden. Many native wildflowers naturally have the smaller compound blossoms that these insects prefer.

Plants you NEED to make space for in the garden to attract beneficial insects for pest control. 

Many of the truly effective predatory bugs that will help you control plant pests rely on nectar and pollen for at least part of their diet. Some, like parasitic wasps, rely on flowers for their entire diet in adult form. Flowers with compound blossoms like yarrow and dill are especially important for attracting these incredible tiny farmer's friends. 

For many of these plants, just leaving a few of your garden vegetables to bloom and go to seed through the seasons and overwinter will create the habitat you are looking for. Cold hardy brassicas like broccoli and kale are excellent early sources of nectar and pollen if allowed to overwinter and flower in early Spring. We also frequently find ladybug eggs on the underside of our broccoli leaves. White and yellow flowers seem especially good at attracting early friends to the garden. 

Pictured:  Lady bug and larvae

Some of our favorite multi-functional plants for attracting, feeding, and housing beneficials in the garden are:

Alyssum - early small flowers in white and purple, ground cover habitat in mild climates

Broccoli - yellow or white flowers, old hollow flower stems make excellent habitat, 

Cilantro/Coriander - withstands mild early frost, bolts quickly in the heat, tiny white compound flowers.

Dill - compound yellow blossoms, great hollow stems

Fennel - compound yellow blossoms, great hollow stems, can be planted in late fall to flower early in the Spring.

Sunflower - a highly productive source of pollen and nectar. Look for the branching types for continual food sources through the warmer months. 

Yarrow - long-lasting compound flowers attract many native insect species.

Zinnia - bright flowers attract pollinators and predators alike; also a favorite of hummingbirds, tall stems provide habitat for web spiders.

Provide Native Wildflowers to Increase Pollinators on your Property

Planting even small patches of native flowering plants amongst your crops or around the edges of your farm as buffer zones can significantly impact native pollinator populations. Remembering that these pollinators are often fantastic predators in their larval stage means that planting for pollination is also planting to increase beneficial insects of all kinds.

Native wildflowers often do double duty, providing not just nourishment for the insects you are trying to attract but also nesting habitat and overwintering spaces. Given a choice, most butterfly and moth species will lay their eggs on native plants. This means the possibly pesky caterpillars will do their damage to your buffer plants while the adult butterflies will feed on and pollinate all of the nearby flowers.  

Bees native to North America can easily do the job of pollination without the need for nonnative honey bees as long as there is enough available habitat. As an example, 250 blue orchard bees can effectively pollinate an entire acre of apples, a task that would require tens of thousands of honey bees. Unlike honey bee colonies which are often moved around by humans, causing a host of ecological issues, native bee populations can be self-sustaining. 

A list of valuable native wildflowers for North American farms.

Aster (Symphyotrichum spp.)

Beardtongue (Penstemon spp.)

Beebalm (Mondara spp.)

Blanketflower (Gaillardia spp.)

Eryngo (Eryngium spp.)

Figwort (Scrophularia spp.)

Hyssop (Agastache spp.)

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)

Gumweed (Grindelia spp.)

Lobelia (Lobelia cardinalis and L. siphilitica)

Lupine (Lupinus spp.)

Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) Plant the species suitable to your region to avoid confusing Monarchs.

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is the most widely available, but other spp. are good to plant.

Scorpionweed (Phacelia tanacetifolia, P. californica and P. grandiflora)

Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) low growing and sturdy will tolerate vehicle traffic

Spiderflower (Cleome spp.)

Spiderwort (Tradescantia spp.)

Sunflower (Helianthus spp.) Avoid "pollenless" and ornamental varieties.

Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum spp.)

Wild buckwheat (Eriogonum spp.) 

Wild geranium (Geranium spp.) Plant the species suitable to your region for best results.

For this list, we have focused on generalist wildflowers that will grow nationwide in the US, throughout southern Canada, and northern Mexico. For more location-specific flowers, be sure to check out some of the resources listed at the end of this article. In many cases, particular species (spp.) of each genus of flower will be better adapted to different regions. Some of the flowers can become pesky weeds in crop rows if not contained, do your research if you are worried about contamination. 

If you are ready to add a significant number of flowers to your growing space, we have also put together a great resource on Growing Edible Flowers. Many of the flowers we discuss in our resource guide are also excellent for attracting all types of beneficial insects. Like bee balm and hyssop, some are also wildflowers native to the US. Find the complete spreadsheet of edible flowers available for download here.

Native trees and shrubs for beneficial insect habitat

Including native trees and shrubs in buffer zone plantings or landscape planning will provide long-term benefits to the overall ecosystem on your farm or home garden. Because trees and shrubs are more location-dependent than wildflowers, we have only listed a few of the prettiest and most useful here. For more information, look into Attracting Native Pollinators: The Xerces Society Guide Protecting North America's Bees and Butterflies.

• Almond
• Blueberries
• Black Locust
• Cherry
• False Indigo
• Golden Currant
• Meadowsweet/Steeplebush
• Peach
• Plum
• Redbud
• Wild lilac
• Willow

Buying Insects to Eliminate Pests

Ideally, you will be able to attract beneficial bugs you want to see more of to your garden with the suggestions in this article. But maybe you are looking to install beneficial insects in your greenhouse to treat a particularly bad spider mite infestation. If that is the case, you can purchase insects to help treat your problem naturally. Be sure and check the regulations where you live, as some locations do not allow the release of certain types of insects. Many garden supply stores will sell ladybugs and green lacewings. For the more specialized predators, you can look up our friends over at Arbico. They sell a variety of species for pest control.

Pictured:  Lady Bug 

Beneficial Insects in the Greenhouse

Insect netting is typically used to keep bugs out of your greenhouse and off of your valuable plants. However, it can also be used to keep insects in, particularly if you will incur the expense of purchasing ladybugs or lacewings to deal with an infestation of pests in the greenhouse. You want them to stay put while dealing with your problem for you and ideally reproduce to provide ongoing control of pest insects as their new larvae feed on pests. If you will be using insect netting to keep predators inside your greenhouse, make sure you provide habitat for breeding, water, and flowers with pollen and nectar to feed the adults. 

Learn more about insect netting, check out Insect Netting for Pest Protection.

WHAT BUGS ARE BENEFICIAL IN THE GREENHOUSE?

Garden insect predators can be divided into two groups: generalists and specialists. A specialist bug will prey on just a few different kinds of insect pests, while a generalist will eat a broader spectrum of prey, including other beneficial insects. When choosing a generalist insect species, it's important to keep an eye on their population size, so they don't begin eating your other beneficial garden insects as well.

Top 10 BENEFICIAL INSECTS FOR GREENHOUSES

• Assassin Bugs: This class of predatory insect is highly efficient at hunting and killing pests insects of all kinds, from leafhoppers to boll weevils. Common assassin bugs include the wheel bug and the cone-nosed bug (or kissing bug). Just be careful when handling — these guys can bite!
• Damsel Bugs: Nymphs and adults alike will feed on soft bodied insect pests such as caterpillars, leafhoppers, thrips, aphids, and more.
• Ground Beetles: These iridescent black or brown beetles take care of ground-bound insect pests like root maggots, slugs, and cutworms, especially in their larval stage.
• Hover Flies: Technically called Syrphid Flies, these yellow and black garden insects hunt down aphids as maggots and pollinate flowers as adults.
• Lacewings: As larvae, these delicate insect specialists can devour dozens of aphids at a time. In adulthood, they tend to stick to pollen and nectar.
• Ladybugs: One of the most common beneficial insects, are voracious eaters of aphids, thrips, mites, and more! The lady beetle or ladybug is the best bug you could ask for in your garden. Their larvae feed aggressively on aphids!
• Minute Pirate Bugs: Small but mighty, these barely visible garden insects will help keep aphids, mites, and thrips at bay on garden plants.
• Praying Mantises: These recognizable insects are most effective at pest control in their nymph stage when they'll eat just about any bug in sight. They remain generalists throughout their lives, so make sure they aren't gobbling up all your lady beetles while hunting for caterpillars!
• Rove Beetles: A predatory beetle that eats soil-dwelling pests like thrips and fungus gnats.
• Spined Soldier Bugs: A type of predatory stink bug that eats caterpillars, grubs, and Colorado potato beetles, and Mexican bean beetles. It's a generalist, so make sure not to have too many.

Pictured:  Rove Beetle

HOW ARE BUGS BENEFICIAL?

The importance of beneficial insect species cannot be overstated. These helpful garden insects clear out pests and minimize damage to crops. It's a natural method of biological control to take care of your crops and get rid of pesky insects without harming pollinators or the garden plants themselves. In using beneficial insects, you can control the numbers of aphids, whiteflies, mealy bugs, leaf miners, and many other common kinds of greenhouse pests to ensure that your plants grow strong and undisturbed.

Keeping Beneficial Bugs on Your Farm

Don't spray insecticides, pesticides, or herbicides unless absolutely necessary, and even then, only in very targeted areas. These sprays do not discriminate between the bugs you want to keep around and the pest insects you are trying to rid yourself of. 

Provide forage and protected spaces in your garden and around your farm. When you do need to cultivate areas of habitat, try to only till, burn, or mow around 30% at a time. Schedule these activities in the late summer and fall when most ground-dwelling insects are not reproducing.

Resources

We could not have written this article about beneficial insects without the fabulous research done by many others, particularly the fantastic information available from the Xerces Society. You can check out our entire book list through our affiliate link with Bookshop.org showing all of the books we used to inform this writing. If this is a subject that you want to learn more about, these are some of the books we love. 

Attracting Native Pollinators: The Xerces Society Guide Protecting North America's Bees and Butterflies

Farming with Native Beneficial Insects: Ecological Pest Control Solutions

Vegetables Love Flowers: Companion Planting for Beauty and Bounty

Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening

At Bootstrap Farmer we field a lot of calls from people looking to build their first hoop house. We get questions from every possible type of person. Often this is the biggest construction project that folks have taken on, so there are naturally many questions. People are terrified to make a mistake. Given the job hoop houses have in protecting valuable crops as well as a significant up front investment, we certainly understand how important it is to build it right the first time. 

Even though we have kits with specific instructions, we want to tell you that every hoop house we have ever seen constructed has been different from last.  Farmers add on, adjust, and customize to fit their many different needs, especially once they gain experience and modify the structure to their particular needs.

Over time, farmers view hoop house construction as a framework instead of an exact step-by-step to follow. Our intent with the following guide is to help get you there right from the start.  

What Exactly is a Hoop House?

Hoop houses are simple structures. In its simplest form, they are hoops with plastic on top to protect plants from excessive wind and rain.  They provide solar gains at the start and end of the growing seasons to allow farmers to begin growing earlier in the Spring and harvesting later into the Fall. With proper crop selections and succession planting, many climates can also support four season farming. 

A hoop house can be built from many materials. Different gauges of metal, wood and PVC(not recommended) are the most popular choices. Each farmer is able to decide if they want to save capital investments up front or invest into a stronger structure from the beginning that will last for many seasons to come. Local weather and environmental conditions ultimately should be the deciding factor to hoop house construction. In our Building a Greenhouse series we will answer many of the questions we routinely receive at Bootstrap Farmer regarding hoop house construction.

What you need to know before building a hoop house

Now that you have ordered your kit, we are here to guide you through some important reminders and things to consider while you are waiting for your kit to arrive. From ensuring you understand the instruction manual ahead of time to ensuring you have the tools you need to build it right from day one.

Planning to have the help you need on hand when you need it and taking care of the people who are there to help you, will be instrumental in a successful build. This is definitely one of those situations in life where being prepared can and will save you piles of extra work and the aches of not being able to plant when you are ready to. 

Another important thing to consider is what you will be using for your greenhouse floor covering. There are a number of different coverings that can be used to augment your hoop house and reduce your overall labor hours. If you want to learn more about How to Use Ground Covers on the Farm read this article as well. 

Top 5 Things to Do Before Building a Greenhouse

1. Read the manual carefully and all the way through. 
2. Watch videos of other peoples’ builds. 
3. Recruit and coordinate the help you will need.
4. Secure any permitting requirements
5. Have the right tools on hand.

Reading and Understanding the Hoop House Manual 

Over on the tech line here at Bootstrap we find that 90% of the questions we get from people who are in the middle of building one of our kits are answered just a few pages beyond where they are right now. When building a hoop house the order of steps may seem counterintuitive but as you read on in the instructions you will understand why each step occurs in the order that it does. 

This is why we provide all of our manuals online in PDF format as well as sending you a printed copy with your order. If you want to check out any of our Instruction Manuals, even if you haven’t ordered yet, you can find them here in our Resources.  

We want you to be able to read through the entire set of instructions before your kit arrives. We also want you to be able to send the PDF copy to people who will be helping you with your build. As you read through, make a list of any questions you have. If they aren’t answered by the time you finish reading, call in and get your questions answered before you start building. Our service line is available 7 days a week to answer your questions.

Watch Videos of People Building Hoop Houses and Greenhouses

When preparing to build a hoop house, videos can come in handy. Some people just learn better by watching something done. Particularly if you have questions after you read the manual, watch videos of hoop house builds. You can find videos of our build processes on our Bootstrap Farmer Playlists. No matter which company's kit you choose to go with you should be able to find videos to help you understand the process.

What Tools do I Need to Have on Hand to Build a Hoop House?

You will need to plan ahead to have tools that are necessary on hand and to have the knowledge to use them safely. Under this list we go over the most important reasons for each and how many we recommend you have. 

• Safety gear, goggles, gloves, etc. 
• Battery powered drills and impact drivers
• Extra batteries and chargers 
• Extension cords
• Drill bits
• Socket set and wrenches
• Hack saw or reciprocating saw
• Tape measures; ideally at least one that will measure the entire length of your structure. 
• Levels; a line level and magnetic levels will both come in handy
• Ground post driver
• Sledge hammer/double jack
• Single jack/3 pound hammer (a smaller sledge hammer with a handle under two feet in length)
• Clamps 
• Mason line
• Center punch
• Magnetic sweeper or telescoping magnet 

More on Building Tools for Greenhouse Builds

It is essential to protect yourself and your helpers when building a hoop house. Have plenty of pairs of safety glasses on hand to protect eyes from the metal shavings. Extra pairs of leather work gloves will help protect hands from sharp edges and be welcome when someone misplaces theirs.

Drills and impact drivers can both be used. We suggest you have one of each if possible. Impact drivers by themselves are not enough as the force can snap the heads off of self-tapping screws. Keep your chargers plugged in and extra batteries charging at all times. You will go through a number of full batteries in a day of hoop house building. 

Have a number of extension cords on hand, the longer the better. You will need them to keep your chargers close at hand as well as running any power tools that are not battery powered. Don’t forget you will need power to run the all important tunes for your building soundtrack!

A drill bit set for each powered drill you have is nice to have so you aren’t running back and forth to change bits or waiting for someone else to finish their task. Socket sets for power drill as well as hand wrenches with sockets will both come in handy for tightening nuts and bolts. 

Hack saws or reciprocating saws will be required for this build to trim ridge poles, cut hat channel braces, and to properly size lock channel and spring wire segments. If you do not own one, this can be an item that you rent or borrow. Although it is a handy piece of equipment to have on the farm. Make sure that you have extra blades, a long enough extension cord and safety equipment for when it is in use.

Tape measures are vital to the building process. Having one that is long enough for the job is invaluable. Some prefer the roller-style tape measures when pacing out the initial measurement. It is a matter of preference, but regardless have extra tape measures on hand as they commonly go missing when you need them the most. 

Having a level for the job will help the entire process. It is good to have one line level, one magnetic level and one extra level. You can never have too many levels! No one wants to look at a crooked structure, knowing that they could have done the job better. Believe us when we say, it is better to check for plumb throughout the process than to try to make corrections after all of the layers have been put into place. You will use one or more types of level for essentially every part of this build.

Our kits come with one ground post driver. This tool is a must in order to protect the integrity of the ground posts. It helps to spread out the impact and protect the ground posts from damage that would likely occur if direct impact was made by the sledgehammer to the post.

Single jack hammers are useful when fine tuning placement of the ground posts as you level and adjust. It is a good idea to have them for driving smaller components of the hoop house. It is especially useful for those who may find it difficult to use a heavier hammer or those jobs where the use of a heavier hammer would be overkill. A regular sized sledge hammer is great for driving the ground posts into heavy soils. 

Clamps will prove their usefulness time and time again throughout the building process. Whether it is when you are installing the hoops or when the purlins are installed, clamps act as another hand for the job. Even if you have extra hands around to hold the materials for you, it will save fatigue and frustration to clamp. We recommend you have a minimum of four clamps on hand for this. Bar clamps and larger spring style clamps will both work here and you may find that having both on hand is helpful for different steps in the greenhouse build process. You will want to have several clamps- honestly the more the merrier when it comes to clamps in your toolbox.

At the beginning of the build, you will need to square your structure. The process goes a lot better with the use of a brightly colored mason line. Using a mason line in conjunction with a line level, you will be able to efficiently mark where your ground posts will be placed and the depth at which you will install them.

Including a center punch in your list of tools as it helps mark the spot and guide your drill. Drills have the tendency to wander. Making an indent with a center punch will give your drill something to grip and ensure that you will stay centered as you drill your starting holes. Center punches can also be found with spring-loaded mechanics for more ease of use. 

We recommend having a magnetic sweeper or telescoping magnet for the clean-up stage of the building process. Leaving stray bolts or anything else that could puncture plastic around may cause future damage. This is another great job for those helpers without a lot of building experience or any kiddos that want to help “build”. Have them circle the structure with this tool and collect any dropped hardware.

Additional Tools Needed to Build a Hoop House

We have put together this additional list of tools for the ones listed above you may not already have with links on where to purchase. If you have ordered a kit from us some of the bits and drivers you will need are included. When there are multiple people helping you with multiple drills, it is always nice to have additional of these specialized bits available. This way you can work through certain steps faster without having only one person able to complete a particular task.  

On a build this big things will get misplaced, bits will get worn or break. We recommend always having extras to avoid a hold up in your build. 

Coordinating Help to Build a Hoop House 

The people you have to help you build can be the most important factor in how fast and well your kit goes together. Regardless if you are relying on friends and neighbors or hiring professionals the following suggestions should hold true. 

Who should you ask to help you build a hoop house greenhouse?

There are a few traits many would agree would be great. Not all of these are requirements by any means as there are many tasks that even the highly unskilled can help with. That said, what makes a great helper? 

• They have built a hoop house greenhouse before.  
• They have building experience and mechanical know how.
• They are willing and able to help.

Setting Goals and Pacing out a Hoop House Build

We like to say, “Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.” Setting goals for each set of steps will help smooth out the process and ensure you have taken a moment to check that the step was done properly. Stop for breaks as needed from the heavy physical activity of building and review the work you’ve already done. 

A large part of the labor involved in building one of these kits is walking back and forth to lay out materials ahead of each step. Understanding that this is a different kind of physical activity than most people are used to doing will keep you from getting frustrated if you find yourself needing to knock off a few hours earlier than expected. Or leave a particular step half finished at the end of the day. 

Make a plan for each day of your build and decide which steps you need to complete and which you would complete in an ideal world. Many steps, like attaching the lock channel to your hip and base braces, can be done in stages. This means you can easily stop in the middle of the task to break for lunch or be done for the day. Other tasks, like putting on the plastic, must be completed in a single work session or you risk damaging all of your hard work thus far. 

Take Care of Yourself and Your Helpers

This is where even someone with no building experience can come in very handy. A support person who will take care of simple things like keeping you all hydrated, fed and supplied with the equipment needed is invaluable. As the builder, you will want to provide your help with snacks, lunch and all beverages. Having a shaded area with a place to sit for breaks will help prevent any issues with heat or too much sun exposure. You will also want to have safety equipment available for all helpers. 

Contingency Plans for Hoop House Greenhouse Build Days

In an ideal world, weather would line up with the time you’ve set aside to build your greenhouse. This will not always be the case. You will want to watch the weather and make a contingency plan if the forecast predicts high winds or stormy weather. Working against extreme weather will set you back more than if you make arrangements to build on a different day.

When is the Best Time to Build Your Hoop House?

The short answer is at least a month before you plan to need it. We field a lot of calls from people who are frantic to get their hoop house kit delivered because they want to start using it next week. To be honest this is an unreasonable expectation to put on yourself and anyone who is helping you. If at all possible take weather into consideration when scheduling your build. Building an outdoor structure in the hottest month of the year or during a rainstorm is far less than ideal. 

As we mentioned in our previous articles on shipping and shopping; lead times for delivery of greenhouse kits can be significantly extended in the middle of the busy season (January-April). Planning ahead for ordering, shipping, building, and possible delays will make your build smoother and better. 

What to Know Before Building a Hoop House 

Depending on where you live you may need permits in order to build a greenhouse. However in many places no permits are required for high tunnels or hoop houses. The difference being that building codes for some municipalities define a greenhouse as a structure with a foundation and a floor while hoop houses are non permanent structures. Also greenhouses are usually considered to have some utilities like electrical outlets and water as well as heating and cooling, while high tunnels have few amenities and plants are grown directly in the existing soil.  When speaking with your zoning department the words you use to describe your build will matter. 

Reading the manual should definitely be your first step in preparing to build. It will help you make sure you have everything you need available before you begin that first work day in terms of proper tools, supplies, and helping hands. Watching videos, both from the company you have ordered your kit from and other types, will give you the foresight to know when you might run into issues. Taking good care of anyone who comes to help you will prevent injuries, early fatigue, and help make sure they want to come back and help again the next day.   

If you want to read more, you can find our Prequel to Building a Hoop House here. 

This is not an instructional manual but something we wrote to help you get into the right mindset to begin your build. We recommend reading through it before you start your build to ensure you have the time to think through steps you may not have considered. Similar to this series, our goal is to help you be successful from the beginning to end of your build. 

Watch the Video:

What Direction Should I face my DIY hoop house or greenhouse?

Read this article before you decide on the perfect location to begin hoop house or high tunnel site prep.

Here at Bootstrap Farmer we often find ourselves explaining the different factors that can affect cost and placement when it comes to site preparation for a greenhouse and greenhouse direction. Locations of existing structures, soil conditions, wind, sun exposure, site grading and access to utilities will all play a part in deciding where you can securely place the foundation for your structure. These things will also have an effect on the overall cost of your traditional greenhouse or DIY hoop house build. These are all things to consider when selecting a site or assessing your back yard for the hoop house structure.

What is the best hoop house orientation?

It is ideal to build your greenhouse or hoop house in a location that gets plenty of sun year round and will not be prone to high wind pressure or flooding. This will ensure a better hoop house build and a better chance of being able to use the structure year round, even in cold weather. It is best to select a site that is flat with stable soil. You don't want the soil shifting after your greenhouse is built. We recommend grading the soil with a slight pitch to drain excess water away from the greenhouse (about 6" drop for each 100').

Top 10 Things You Should Consider About Greenhouse Orientation 

1. How close will the hoop house or high tunnel greenhouse be to other structures on your property?
2. Do you have large trees that will shade the area or grow to shade the area?
3. Is snow drift a possible problem at your site?
4. Are there water drainage issues near the foundation that could be exasperated by hoop house or high tunnel runoff?
5. How close to the road are you allowed to build?
6. Are there easements on your property that must be taken into account?
7. Will utilities (water/electricity)  be available at your hoop house site or will they need to be added in?
8. Is there a significant slope to the ground?
9. What are the underlying soil conditions?
10. What direction should a greenhouse or hoop house face? Hoop house orientation can be north to south or east to west. 

DO GREENHOUSES NEED TO BE IN FULL SUN?

When deciding your traditional greenhouse or high tunnel orientation, you will want to make sure it is an area that receives plenty of light. The ideal location would be south or southeast of any existing structures. If that is not an option, the next best location would be east of existing structures to capture the most winter light. It is best to avoid building around trees that will block out too much sunlight. Trees and high prevailing winds can be a source of weather damage if trees are planted too closely to the hoop house or greenhouse.

WHAT IS THE BEST ORIENTATION FOR A GREENHOUSE Or High tunnel?

When selecting the best greenhouse orientation, always default to what is best for drainage while avoiding shading from other structures.

If you are in a northern climate (hardiness zone 6 and lower) and want to grow in the cold winter months, plan on orienting your greenhouse East to West to maximize sunlight in the winter months. Otherwise, hoop houses or high tunnel orientation should run North to South to get good light and the best ventilation.

Be sure to create a greenhouse plan before you start building. You want to make sure your plants get maximum sunlight and the structure of your greenhouse or high tunnel is on a solid foundation.

How to Plan for Site Grading Before you Build

The ideal grade for the foundation when building a hoop house style greenhouse is less than 5 degrees of slope over the length of a 100 feet. If your slope is greater than this you will need to factor in the time, labor and possible equipment costs to bring the slope within spec. If you can, move some of your soil from the high side to backfill the low side of your location. You may need to build a small retaining wall to keep the ground’s foundation in place.

The closer your foundation is to level, before you build the hoop house or greenhouse, the better your results will be. Having the ground level will improve conditions for watering purposes, drainage, and your own comfort in the hoop house when working. If you will need to bring in equipment to help with this process, consider how you will be dealing with necessary drainage channels and utility trenches. If all of these will need doing it is best to plan it out to be done all at once to avoid additional costs, labor and time later on. Watch this video Do This First! Groundwork Leveling for a Gothic Tunnel Greenhouse, for an in-depth look into this process. 

 

Before You Dig, Check for Utility Lines 

You must call utility companies to have them mark their existing lines before you dig. Conveniently this can be done by calling 811 from anywhere in the US. You can also use the website https://call811.com/Before-You-Dig to schedule utility companies to come out and mark their lines. This is necessary so you don’t hit a gas line or fiber optic cable when you start your dirt work. Typically it only takes them a few days to come out and mark any lines that you need to avoid when grading, trenching, laying foundation, or sinking ground posts.  

 

What Utilities Will You Need Access to for Your Hoop House?

 

Water is the most important utility to have access to. If your closest spigot is 300 feet from your build site, how do you plan to water your plants? Will you be dragging a hose all that way every time you need to water or will you install PVC pipe? 

If you will need to move the water supply to your build site, take into consideration the cost of the PVC or PVC pipe needed as well as the time and labor required to dig the trench. If you do not have experience with plumbing or PVC pipe, also consider the cost of hiring a plumber to make sure the work is done correctly the first time before your high tunnel or greenhouse foundation goes in. 

Electrical Installation for Greenhouses

Before you begin building your foundation, decide if you will need to have power supplied to your building, often a panel built on a wooden frame or power from a nearby building. If you will be using a double layer inflation kit you will need a continuous power supply. Even if you don’t plan to have any automated electrical systems in your house, having electricity comes in handy for:

• Running fans when it gets hot
• Charging your phone
• Listening to music while you work
• Heated seedling mats
• Running space heaters

Anytime that water and electricity will exist in the same space it is doubly important to ensure the work is done safely and up to code. Unless you or a buddy is an experienced electrician, add the costs in labor of having the trenches dug, the supplies and an electrician’s time to your build estimate.

Ideal Soil Conditions for Building a Hoop House

Depending on your growing methods and planned crops, ideal soil conditions may vary. If you will be growing hydroponically the health of the underlying soil is not as much of a concern as worker comfort and proper drainage.

How do you prepare the ground for a greenhouse or hoop house foundation?

If you will be growing in the ground, a requirement for NRCS funded high tunnels, preparing the soil before you build your hoop house or high tunnel will help you get the most from your crops and crop rotation quickly during the growing season. Solarizing weeds, adding compost and amendments, building raised beds, and laying landscape fabric are all easier to do before the structure is built. For more on the Proper Use of Ground Covers on the Farm you can check out this article to choose what would work best for your upcoming growing season.

Know what was there before you. If your property housed previously toxic industry like salvage yards or a factory, you may not be able to grow in the ground safely. 

There are a number of flooring options to go along with whatever type of foundation you choose. 

The most common choices for flooring in hoop houses or greenhouses are:

• Compacted gravel/Crushed rock 
• Pea Gravel 
• Soil 
• Raised Beds 
• Concrete Slab
• Wood Floors 
• Landscape fabric 

Proper Ground Post Depth for Hoop House Style Greenhouses or High Tunnels

For our All-Metal Greenhouse Kits we use four foot tall pre drilled ground posts that are sunk two feet in the ground. This means you will need to know what the conditions are two feet below the surface of your soil. If you dig down a foot in your build site and run into shale or hardpan, you will need to plan for how to properly secure your posts. 

If your soil conditions are less than ideal you may need to plan on using concrete or compacted gravel to hold your ground posts. We have covered everything you will need to know about sinking your ground posts for hoop houses in our article on Ground Posts and Hoops.

Guiding the Direction of Runoff and Drainage from Your Hoop House

When you prepare your site to build, ensure you know what direction water already flows on your property. We have known farmers that needed to build diversion dams to keep water from other parts of their property from pooling at the crown of their hoop houses. 

There is also rainfall and irrigation runoff to be considered. Particularly for NRCS funded projects such as hoop houses, as you will be expected to show a plan for dealing with and mitigating any damage from water runoff. In some cases it may be necessary to install a French drain system around the perimeter of  hoop houses to divert rainwater and any possible garden runoff from overwatering.  

Is Your Farm Site Prepared for Your Hoop House Build?

If you have taken into consideration the locations of existing structures, the soil conditions, the existing grade of your site, and access to utilities before you build you will be prepared to build hoop houses or greenhouses. Planning into your budget for any accommodations and additions you will need to make to your site gives you a much more realistic idea of the true cost of building hoop houses. Read How to Attach Greenhouse Plastic to learn about the process of adding plastic covering with spring wire to hoop houses or if roll up sides should be consideration for the plastic cover.

None of this is intended to deter you from building diy hoop houses or high tunnel for season extension, but to ensure you are not surprised by costs along the way. We also want you to have a successful build that is ready for planting when you need it to be. Getting started on your hoop house site prep long before you plan to build will save you money year round and heartache in the long run. For a visual of how this process works check out, Site Prep How-To | Hoop House 101 Ep. 5.

Once you get this step done, it is time to consider shade cloth and plastic coverings commonly used on hoop houses and high tunnels. Read the Ultimate Guide to Ground Covers on the Farm for tips to use next spring and learn what a market gardener uses for covers on and below their hoop houses and high tunnels as a tool for season extension.

Choose a day with low wind speeds if at all possible. It is best to unroll the greenhouse plastic in the early morning in order to avoid having the wind work against you during this process. This is one of the steps of building a greenhouse kit in which it is best to have extra hands available. Particularly if you will have to be dealing with wind issues, think through the process before you begin. 

Plan where you will need people standing ahead of time to secure the corners. Have the tools you will need at hand:

Tools Needed to for Installing Greenhouse Plastic

• Ladders, it is best to have at least 2 available. For taller hoop house you will want to rent a scissor lift. 
• Bolt cutters or a hacksaw for cutting spring wire to length
• Push brooms, for easing the plastic over the hoops
• Tennis balls, can be placed on pole ends to protect plastic when guiding it over the structure. They can also be tied into a corner of the plastic with rope to be used in pulling it over the length of your structure. 
• Rope 
• Box cutter or similar tool for trimming plastic 
• Safety Gear, gloves, goggles, ect. 
• Greenhouse repair tape (accidents happen)

We have heard it said many times that everything speeds up in the build when you begin attaching the plastic: because the wind may be blowing it around, because many people will be looking to you to tell them where to be, because you are almost finished with your build. 

How Do You Figure Out What Size of Greenhouse Plastic You Need?

The size of your greenhouse film can be determined by measuring the length and width of the growing structure that you wish to cover. Account for the total length of the pipes you will use to complete the hoops and the endwalls. Roll-up sides will require an extra 4' of plastic. If you are measuring plastic for the double layer, you will only need enough plastic to cover from hip board to hip board as the second layer will only need to cover the top of the structure.

Check out: How to Determine the Size of Greenhouse Plastic You Need

Begin Installing the Plastic on Your Hoop House 

To attach greenhouse plastic, begin by unrolling your plastic film lengthwise along the structure. Unroll the film so that the label is visible from inside the structure you are covering when you attach the greenhouse plastic. Most plastic is folded in such a way as to facilitate it unfolding properly as you pull the corners. 

After rolling out the plastic, have two people grab a corner of the film on the ends and begin lifting over the hoops of a hoop house greenhouse. As you begin lifting the plastic over the hoops work with the wind when unfolding otherwise the plastic will be pushed on the ribs making the job much more difficult. This is where having soft bristled brooms or poles with a tennis ball on the end is extremely useful. 

Take care not to get hung up on corners, boards or hardware to avoid rips. In case of mishaps, it is a good idea to have a roll of greenhouse repair tape on hand to fix any small tears that occur. Having helpers near the endwalls to help unroll and unfold allowing the pullers more slack can make this process more seamless. When fully rolled out, the plastic film should have at least 2 extra feet all around the structure on the ground.

Securing Greenhouse Plastic with Spring Wire and Lock Channel

WHAT ARE LOCK CHANNEL AND SPRING WIRE?

Lock channel and spring wire is the industry standard for properly securing greenhouse plastic. Installing lock channel and spring wire is a simple and economical way of installing greenhouse plastic and other coverings, including poly plastic and shade cloth, to a structure. The PVC coated spring wire used to secure greenhouse coverings into a lock channel is sometimes referred to as wiggled wire because you will need to "wiggle" it up and down during installation. Spring wire, used in conjunction with the lock channel, forms a tight and secure attachment of your greenhouse covering.

In order to install the spring wire, pull the plastic tight and wiggle the wire back and forth into the channel. Each section of wire is 6.5 feet long so there will be places that you will need to cut the wire to fit. You can use bolt cutters or a metal saw to easily size the sections that you need.
We prefer the method of using spring wire and lock channel over the often used staples and batten board method because it gives the grower the ability to remove and reinstall the plastic without causing damage.  

Installing Spring Wire and Lock Channel for Greenhouse Plastic 

To finish securing the film to a greenhouse frame, begin at the top of an endwall and work down one side to the ground and repeat the process top to bottom on the other side. Move your ladder and your crew to the opposite endwall. With help, pull the plastic as tight as you can toward you and begin securing the film into the channel top to bottom and side to side. 

Next, move to one of the long sides and begin securing the film into the lock channel with spring wire at the hip board. Once the plastic is secure along the length of one side wall, move to the opposite long side. While pulling down as tight as you can, secure the plastic with spring wire. After completion, you will be able to see where you can retighten the plastic by removing a section of spring wire and pulling from the bottom.

A note about insect netting:

If you plan to install insect netting to protect the roll-up sides on your hoop house; it will need to be placed in the lock channel with a separate set of spring wire before you install the plastic. Remember when you place your order to add enough extra spring wire to run the length of your hoop house times four. To read more on insect netting and how to install it check out the Insect Netting for Organic Pest Control for a Hoop House article on our blog. 

How Do You Install Plastic With Rollup Sides?

To install roll up sides you will wrap at least 1’ of greenhouse film rolled and attached around ¾ EMT down the length of the greenhouse. Specially designed greenhouse snap clamps make this process relatively painless. Feel free to cut off any excess from the bottom past 12”. Once the greenhouse plastic is secured to the hand crank end, you may find that hand-rolling the non-crank end as you roll the sides up and down assists in alignment. Once you are satisfied with that, roll the side walls down to the baseboard to begin trimming for the end wall.

If you will be using roll up sides it is particularly important to plan for controlling weeds around the edges of the structure. Landscape fabric is one of the best ways to do this. You can read more about using Ground Covers on the Farm in this article. 

Installing Plastic on the Endwalls of Your Greenhouse

For end wall plastic remember that you will be inserting spring wire into some lock channels as the first layer or as the second layer.  The lock channel around the baseboards, door, door frame, optional vent frames, and all uprights will have the endwall plastic as the first layer inserted.  For the end wall hoop you will be installing on top of the plastic any wire you already have in place. 

The more places you can secure the plastic on the ends the better. This is because the endwalls are vertical and bear more wind load than the curved length of the hoop house or greenhouse roof. 

Begin by securing the plastic across the baseboards including horizontal door and door frame pieces at the bottom.

You will then secure the plastic to the top with a second layer of wiggle wire in the end wall hoop lock channels that you first secured the plastic in when you began installing the plastic. When working the wrinkles out, think in terms of working from a central point and out diagonally.

Next work your way up the door, door frame, and uprights to the top of the hoop. It works best if you work from the bottom to the top from the middle out on one side and then the other. Securing these individual pieces after the perimeter makes the end wall skin very tight and that is exactly what you want. Lastly cut between the door and the door frame between lock channels to allow the doors to open.

What Kind of Plastic Do You Use for a Greenhouse?

The best greenhouse plastic for your gardening projects is UV stabilized plastic sheeting made of 6 mil or thicker polyethylene plastic. It is affordable, but is able to provide cover for many years.  The greenhouse plastic that Bootstrap Farmer carries is under warranty for four years and will last well beyond that with good maintenance. It is easy to install without use of heavy equipment and is less expensive than glass panels or polycarbonate sheets. Greenhouse plastic film's ease of installation makes it a popular choice among small and large commercial farmers. Hobby growers as well as the home gardeners also use it to great benefit for plant protection and season extension.

What is the Difference Between Greenhouse Plastic and Regular Plastic?

Regular plastic sheeting that can be found in big box stores is inferior to greenhouse plastic. The intended use for sheeting from hardware stores is different from greenhouse film, therefore it lacks UV stabilizers that are required for plastic to hold up under intense sunlight. This means it will begin to shred quickly when left in the sun covering your property with so much plastic confetti. 

One key difference you will notice is the difference in price. You will pay quite a bit more for greenhouse quality plastic upfront. While the cost of regular plastic is lower, the likelihood that it will make it into the next growing season is low making it a seasonal recurring cost v. a farm investment. Not to mention the clean up required if the deteriorating sheeting ends up all over your or your neighbor’s yard. 

What Thickness of Greenhouse Plastic Should I Use?

When selecting a  plastic greenhouse covering, you should choose a thickness of at least 6 mil. This is the benchmark standard set by the NCRS because it is meant to last 4 years or longer. There are other sizes available with more or less thickness, but 6 mil is the average thickness of a heavy-duty greenhouse film.

If you opt for a thinner plastic, you may find that you will be making a replacement purchase sooner than you would like to. Greenhouse films that are 4 mil or less are often only rated for one to two years. These ratings will go down dramatically if UV additives are not added into the plastic.

Can I Use Plastic That is Thicker for a Greenhouse?

Yes you can use an 8 mil plastic, 10 mil plastic or 11 mil plastic film for a greenhouse or hoop house. Heavy-duty thickness like this is often found in  woven polypropylene that carries an opaque hue. This greenhouse plastic thickness is desirable for growers wanting extra protection against the elements and a longer warranty. Thicker greenhouse film is more resistant to tears and rips, providing a more stable environment for your plants. Woven plastic is also more puncture resistant and holds heat better than regular plastic film.

Should I Install a Double Layer with Inflation?

Installing a double layer of plastic to your greenhouse or hoop house can increase your structure’s ability to withstand heavier snow loads, cooler temperatures, and sustained winds. The extra insulation that this added layer and air mass give to your greenhouse structure can help take you further into the shoulder season with cool loving crops. 

While there are advantages to the double layer, there are also disadvantages. If you are under contract with NRCS they may stipulate that the use of electricity is not allowed. You will not be able to use the air inflation kit without a power source. Another disadvantage is that using this energy costs money. If you are trying to go on a small margin, this would be an added expense that would bring down your profitability. 

Using a double-layer and inflation kit isn’t always necessary either. It does not provide enough insulation to allow you to grow year round in cooler climates and would not provide enough impact in milder areas to warrant the cost. These are factors you will need to weigh out before making the investment in a double layer and inflation kit for your greenhouse or hoop house.  

Check out this article on Double Layer Inflation Kits for more information.

Should I Use Clear or White Greenhouse plastic?

Growers use both clear and white greenhouse plastic depending on crop and preference. Clear plastics will provide more light transparency which is ideal for most vegetable crops. Opaque or white/woven greenhouse film provides more light diffusion and less light transparency. This added diffusion gives a more even coverage of light on the foliage and the reduced transparency is great for plants prone to sunburn. Whereas the clear plastic will heat up more quickly making it optimal for  heat-loving crops.

Pros and Cons of Polyethylene Plastic for Greenhouses

Polyethylene plastic use for greenhouses is an inexpensive material used to cover greenhouse or hoop house structures. We love it because of its versatility and ease of use. It provides many of the same benefits as traditional greenhouse panels without the exorbitant cost involved with such materials. When cared for properly the replacement rate on greenhouse films is minimal due to its strength and advances in plastic technology that allow for greater UV protection. It is important to consider plastics with these type of protections such as UV additives and an added warranty to ensure that your farm’s needs are met and you are able to avoid extra trips to the landfill unlike with inferior plastic films.

Tips for Polyethylene Film Use

Using polyethylene film is a great way to provide your plants with protection and light diffusion. While often used with temporary structures, it can have quite a bit of longevity if properly cared for with these tips.

How to Make Your Greenhouse Plastic Last Longer

1. Always make repairs as soon as you see any rips or tears as they will continue to grow
2. Store in a cool and dry place when not in use.
3. Do not let snow build up on your greenhouse film. Use a broom to remove any excess that could harm your plastic.
4. Avoid pesticide use in your hoop house greenhouse as it can cause damage to your plastic film.
5. Periodically check the tightness of your greenhouse plastic as loose areas can lead to rips, stretching and tears.

Should I Remove My Greenhouse Plastic During the Winter Months?

Removing your greenhouse film when not in use is optional. While it may extend the life of your plastic, the added labor is a consideration that needs to be factored into your decision. Storing greenhouse film will take up extra real estate that many farms simply do not have. Greenhouse plastic can be left on year-round even in high snow load areas with the right maintenance. For example, brushing off excess snow from your greenhouse structure to prevent added weight from causing damage. Also, making sure that your structure is safe from any trees or debris that could cause rips or tears during weather events. Read Ideal Greenhouse or DIY Hoop House Direction, Orientation and Location for tips on picking the right spot to build. These tips along with regularly checking for any rips and tears will help keep your plastic viable for longer.

Watch the Video Tutorial:

What is Really Involved in Shipping a Hoop House Kit Across the Country?

There are a number of important steps involved in shipping any greenhouse or hoop house kit. The steps that will affect how efficiently your kit arrives at your destination include:

• The time of year you are ordering your kit.
• Warehouse lead times for packing and shipping greenhouse kits.
• Freight truck driver availability.
• Supply chain shortages.
• Unforeseen delays due to weather, equipment failure, etc.

How long does it take to ship a greenhouse kit?

It takes around 3-4 weeks on average to ship something as large as a hoop house or greenhouse kit across the country. However this can be affected by a number of factors along the way. 

Once your items ship you can expect 2-3 weeks of transit time. Keep in mind these estimates refer to business days. Most freight companies do not move trucks on the weekends except in the case of expedited items. 

Expedited shipping may be available at an additional cost. In many cases the expediting will apply to the fulfillment of your order and not the transit time. 

Warehouse Lead Times for Hoop House Purchase

“What is your lead time for shipping out a hoop house?” Is honestly the first question you should be asking any greenhouse supplier when you are getting ready to place an order.

Here at Bootstrap Farmer we frequently get calls from people who are surprised to hear that our lead time for shipping out a hoop house kit is typically under a week. Many people have been told by other companies to expect 6-8 week lead times for shipping greenhouse kits at the very least. These extended lead times are frequently because those suppliers do not keep all of the parts and pieces needed to build their hoop house kits in their own warehouse space.

Because Bootstrap Farmer stocks all of our parts within our own warehouses in Texas, we are usually able to get your order packed and on its way within a few days. Having our metal manufacturing take place within 100 miles of our warehouse also allows us to restock quickly. Busy season for farm supply, January-April, will affect this for us as it does for everyone. During this period we have seen our lead times shift upward. This is why it is important to plan farm expansions and projects around the peak season. 

Don’t Wait Until the Last Minute to Place Your Hoop House Order.

Taking lead times and possible delays into account as you make your plans for the growing seasons is vital. Plan ahead for the time it will take your items to get to you as well as building time needed to complete your greenhouse kit. Think honestly about when you will need your hoop house built by and factor in all of the time it will take. If you want your hoop house ready for planting in March you should be getting your order together by January. 

All farm supply companies see a significant jump in calls and orders come January 2nd. It seems that once the holidays are over most people have the mental space to begin preparing for the next growing year. If you have the ability to get your major orders like a hoop house kit placed before this, you will be subject to far fewer possible delays or “out of stock'' issues. 

What Happens After Your Hoop House Order is Placed

Once we receive an order it is reviewed by our greenhouse sales expert before being sent to the warehouse to be picked. Make sure you provide the best phone number and email to reach you at when placing your order. This is vital because if we have any questions about your order we will need to be able to contact you before we fulfill your order. If we do not have good contact information for you it can delay your order. Additionally, a reliable contact number is needed because freight delivery drivers need to reach you to set up your appointment for unloading the hoop house kit. 

At Bootstrap Farmer after your greenhouse kit order has been reviewed, the warehouse will put together all of your items and build them securely onto a custom pallet. Then we contact the freight company and arrange for a pick up. These pickups typically take a few days to occur after we have requested them. 

Transit Times and Possible Delaying Factors for Shipping Hoop Houses

Transit times will naturally vary depending on distance traveled but certain factors will apply no matter what. Once your item is picked up from the warehouse it will go to the nearest hub. It is then transferred to a large, hub to hub, transport truck. Once it arrives at the hub nearest to you it is typically transferred to a smaller local delivery truck that may or may not be part of the same company. That truck driver will contact you to arrange a delivery window either the day before or the morning of delivery.

There are any number of small disasters that can happen along the way. From flat tires, to sick drivers, to someone getting a little lost, delays can happen.  

What is a Drop Gate and do you Need one for Your Shipment?

A drop gate or lift gate is a feature on some freight shipping trucks that allows the driver to place the pallet to be delivered on a hydraulically operated tailgate. This means the shipment can be easily transferred from the back of the truck to the ground without the use of a forklift. Because trucks with operating drop gates are less common, there is an additional fee added to these types of deliveries and you will need to request it.

If you have access to a forklift or a tractor with forks you will not need a drop gate. Also as long as you have a few people available to help you unload on delivery day, you should be able to unload the truck without one.  

For delivery to areas where a drop gate is needed, things can be a little more complicated. Even when a drop gate is requested and paid for, there are mix ups. If you have requested a drop gate be sure to discuss this when the driver calls you to schedule your delivery appointment. 

Freight issues and customer service

Because of the nature of freight shipping, delays and mistakes can happen. If there is ever a problem, contact the company you ordered your hoop house kit from. It is much easier and faster for us suppliers to get ahold of the correct person at the freight company than it would be for you. 

Be nice to the driver. They are hard working people who are doing their best. Let us take care of any issues you have with delays or damage because, 9 times out of 10 if these occur, they occurred long before the driver in front of you was responsible for your load. 

Setting up Freight Delivery Appointments 

When we arrange for a delivery driver to schedule a delivery appointment with you we are paying for that service. Drivers will call ahead of time, usually the day before or the morning of delivery, to give you a window of time in which to expect them. These drivers are professionals and are going to do their very best to arrive within the 1-2 hour window that they schedule with you. 

Once your appointment is set with your driver it is time to call in your helpers. Even if you have a forklift onsite it is beneficial to have at least 2-3 extra sets of eyes and hands around to make this process as smooth as possible. 

Who Unloads the Hoop House from the Freight Delivery Truck?

A delivery driver’s responsibility ends when they pull up to your driveway and open the back of the truck. They will get your pallet to the edge of the truck bed but getting it down and off the truck is your responsibility. Many customers are used to smaller deliveries that come directly to your door and aren’t prepared for the logistics of unloading the truck. 

Most freight deliveries are from loading dock to loading dock or warehouse to driveway. These are large trucks that need space to maneuver. It is up to the individual driver to assess your driveway or road conditions to determine if they will deliver further than your address at the road. If you need your items far up a gravel road or towards the back of your property it is ideal to have a plan in place for the day of delivery to make this happen. 

In residential neighborhoods there are often limitations on the size of trucks allowed to deliver. The driver must have a way to turn their truck around and may not fit on some cul de sacs or courts. If this is the case in your neighborhood you may want to consider a local terminal pickup or arranging with a local hardware store to have your items delivered to their parking lot where you can then load onto your own pickup. 

Unloading and Taking Inventory of a Hoop House Delivery

Have space prepared to unload the truck and lay out all of your items. Taking inventory of the shipment the day it arrives is ideal for ensuring you have everything you need on hand when you start building. This is especially important if there is any visible damage to your delivery.  

Document everything

Take pictures when your hoop house kit pallet arrives. If anything looks damaged, document it with the driver, take pictures from all sides and contact your supplier right away. Depending on the severity of possible damage your supplier should have advice on how to resolve any issues and get replacement parts on their way to you ASAP. 

Unloading a freight truck with a forklift

If you are lucky enough to have access to a forklift or a tractor with forks unloading the truck can be accomplished pretty quickly. Be aware of the weight and size of the pallet you will be unloading. Our pallet is 4’ wide by 7’ 10” long by around 6’ tall. And these things are heavy, usually between 1,500 and 2,000 pounds. Ensure you have enough counterbalanced weight to handle this. The last thing you want to do is damage your load or the driver's truck at the end of the journey. 

Unloading a freight truck by hand

If you do not have access to equipment you will need to unload the truck by hand. This can be accomplished by two relatively strong people in less than an hour. You will cut open the pallet and remove the items. Aside from the plastic, the bundles and boxes are not terribly heavy individually. Since the plastic will be in a box by itself and won’t be damaged by a short drop, you can always push it gently off the end of the truck if need be.   

Be prepared to take away all of your garbage and the pallet itself. It is not the driver's responsibility to do away with this for you. Plus it is a nice big pallet and who couldn’t use a little extra lumber around these days. 

Local Terminal Pickups for Freight Deliveries.

If you request a terminal pick up due to your location. Your pallet will be held at the local hub closest to you and you can pick it up from them. Keep in mind the size and weight of the items you will need to transport and be ready with an extra truck or plan to rent a trailer/flat bed to get your items where you need them to be. 

Everyone is Doing Their Best to Get You Your Items on Time.

Anytime something this big moves across the country problems can arise. Be ready for delays and happily surprised that they really only happen about 2% of the time. If issues do come up, contact your supplier. 

Shipping a Greenhouse, Hoop House or High Tunnel Kit Cross-Country

With a large purchase like a greenhouse kit it is important to do your due diligence every step of the way with the order. Know what the expected lead times are before you order. Plan ahead for help with the unloading process. And never underestimate the power of being kind to your driver. They may not be required to help you but many of them will. 

Managing the shipping and delivery timeline with your own schedule, checking off each of the items received, and being prepared for delays will make the process a smoother one.  We are here to help 7 days a week with customer service, video tutorials, and other resources. As always we are happy to make any necessary phone calls for you if delays happen while your hoop house kit travels to its final destination- your growing farm.

Comparing Kits for Hoop Houses, High Tunnels, and Greenhouses Online

Comparing apples to apples when buying a hoop house, is that even possible? We are here to tell you right now it's not. When you look on the internet at hoop house kits the different levels of what is included can be so extreme. You could get a quote for a 20’ by 100’ high tunnel from one company and a quote for a hoop house of the same size from another company and there could be a $5,000 difference. One of these could be half of the structure of the other one. One could include everything; vents,  trusses, doors on both ends, circulation fans, polycarbonate sides, ETC. The other one might be, like our DIY high tunnel kit, a very basic kit and you're going to need to purchase additional supplies locally*. 

The Difference Between Hoop Houses, High Tunnels, and Greenhouses?

The central differences between all three of these are generally what and how you will be growing inside the structure. All three will extend your growing season and help you to optimize your growing environment. Which one is best for your farm will depend on how intensely you will want to modify the growing environment and how much investment you are willing to make. 

Hoop house kits can be used to build a greenhouse or a high tunnel. High tunnels are an offshoot of a hoop house that typically describe taller sidewalls and bigger doors for larger equipment. This term also usually applies when you will be growing in the ground. The terms: hoop houses, poly tunnels, and high tunnels are interchanged a lot when referring to these types of structures.

Greenhouses typically have hard side endwalls made of insulated polycarbonate and are heated or cooled as needed. Greenhouses may employ multiple features to modify the growing environment; like powered gable vents, wet walls, exhaust fans, thermostat or computer monitored controllers, gas heaters, and some type of shade deployment. In use greenhouses are often intended for year round mono-cropping and ready to serve an existing revenue stream. 

What’s Included in a Hoop House Kit?

Not all kits are created equal. One difference in kits we see frequently is that some include all of the hip boards and baseboards while others expect you to provide that at your build site. Our kits include all of the hardware you will need; nuts, bolts, screws, washers and the like, while some kits will expect you to purchase all of these locally. 

Another commonly overlooked difference is the gauge of metal used when building the hoops. The hoops are where the true strength of your structure comes from. Our All-Metal kits use 16 gauge galvanized USA made steel with Flo-Coat® added for extra water resistance. There are kits on the market that use a lighter gauge of metal that ultimately just isn’t as capable of withstanding the elements. 

Definitely look at the different options you want and make sure that any kits you are comparing have all the options you need. Many companies, like us, will provide you with resources to help with your decision making. Know before you order what, if anything, you will need to purchase locally to complete the build.* Take into account the cost of any locally purchased items as well as the value of your time when comparing the price of various kits. With the current supply chain issues and shortages we recommend that you ensure local access to any items you may need before you order. Nothing worse than holding up an entire build for want of a few nuts and bolts.  

Additional Add-ons Available for Hoop Houses

Ventilation, insect netting, shade cloth, landscape fabric...

Depending on what you plan to grow and what the weather is like where you are, you may need very different customizations to your hoop house kit. The first things we ask anyone who calls in looking to purchase a greenhouse:

• How big do you need it to be?
• Where are you located?
• What is your growing zone?
• What are you planning to grow?  

These are the most important factors when it comes to deciding what additional items you will need to budget for when purchasing a kit. 

If you are living in a climate where Summer temps reach into the 100's you are going to need shade cloth and roll up sides for ventilation. If you are growing crops that are susceptible to thrips, spider mites or aphids, you will want insect netting to cover the rollup sides. 

If you live in an area with high winds or snow loads you may need additional purlins or an added truss kit. Some companies will offer additional purlins, trusses and wind bracing to complement their standard kits. 

Why Isn’t Everything Included in a Hoop House or High Tunnel Kit?

The simple answer is because you may not need it. Growers are using hoop house style greenhouses in widely different growing environments for very different reasons. 

A farmer growing tomatoes in the Texas heat is going to need the added ventilation of roll up sides to keep their crop healthy and cool. Meanwhile, someone propagating seedlings in the midwest may need a double layer air inflation kit to add those vital extra degrees of warmth in early Spring to extend the growing season. 

We have a variety of resources available to help you review differing uses of hoop house kits. 

Shipping Costs for Greenhouse Kits

Some companies like us will include the cost of shipping with their kits. For other manufacturers the shipping cost will be in addition to the listed price and may be a significant expense. When comparing the cost of various manufacturers it is vital that you know what shipping will cost you up front. 

When it comes to shipping costs it is important to consider what you will need in terms of add ons in the future. 

Size Matters When you are Shipping Hoops

Depending on how the kits are built you might get a hoop section that is 4 to 5 pieces that can be put in a box and easily shipped.  Some companies manufacture their greenhouses with hoops that are fifteen to twenty feet in length and will require an individual trucking company with a 40 foot trailer to deliver it to you.  If this is on top of the price that they're quoting make sure you look at that and consider the distance involved and cost.  

Where is your hoop house kit coming from?

Is the manufacturer close to you? What is it going to cost to have something the size of a greenhouse kit sent to you? All these factors add up.  Keep in mind that just because a supplier's address is in a particular place doesn’t mean that it is where the kit will be shipping from or where it is manufactured. 

A supplier’s location could be in Ohio but it doesn't mean that the actual tubing or the metal that is used in the greenhouse is made in Ohio. It could be made in Texas, where we are, or it could be made overseas. Some companies fulfill all the parts of an order in house while others may be drop shipping parts of your order from multiple suppliers and locations. 

Getting to Work Building Your Hoop House, High Tunnel, or Greenhouse 

The labor involved in putting one of these together is not a cost that is going to be included in the listed price of your kit. A few companies may offer building support or services if they are local to you. Most reputable companies will be able to give you an idea of how many labor hours are involved in building one of their kits. It will always vary depending on your skill level and that of your helpers. 

Don’t forget to account for the lunch and beverage budget to keep those helpers happy. If you will be hiring workers or paying your staff to help with the build, make sure to factor those costs in as well. 

Do Your Research Before You Buy Any Greenhouse Kit

Comparison shopping is always a good idea when you are getting ready to make any large purchase. As you go through and compare make sure you are truly looking at comparable things. Review resources available from suppliers and online to help you decide what add-ons you may need. 

• Buy from a supplier with a good reputation
• Make sure the kit you are buying has all the accessories you need included in the quote
• Take shipping and labor costs into account when you compare prices
• Read Prequel to Building Your First Hoop House

*DUE TO SUPPLY CHAIN ISSUES AND RAPIDLY FLUCTUATING PRICES BUYING SUPPLIES LOCALLY FOR BUILDING MAY BE FAR MORE EXPENSIVE THAN EXPECTED. If you are intending to build a DIY High Tunnel Greenhouse Kit please check availability with your local suppliers ahead of time to ensure you will be able to purchase all of the items you need. Lumber choices may be limited by location. Redwood, cedar or pressure treated are the best choices for any structure that will be exposed to moisture.

Watch the Video 

To get notified about our latest Hoop House video subscribe to our YouTube.

Simplicity, adaptability, opportunities for crop diversification, opportunities to extend your growing season, and ease of maintenance are our favorite things about hoop houses on the farm. Their sheer versatility allows them to be a great investment for all levels of growers. For some people a 20’x40’ greenhouse may be the biggest thing they have ever built. Others will be adding bigger hoop houses every year to their large existing farm operation. 

Are you looking to expand production into a bigger, better growing space? Or are you wondering if a hoop house is worth adding to your operation? Trying to decide if this is the direction you want to take your farm? Worried about your skill level? We are here to walk you through all your options, answer many of your questions, and present you with some you may not have known to think about. 

Whether it will be a little DIY high tunnel greenhouse as a place for propagation or an All-Metal 30’x100’ Hoop House for use as a high production space. Bootstrap Farmer has put together this brand new series to help guide you through the purchase and construction of your hoop house greenhouse. Our team has compiled all the questions we hear from first time builders and put them together in these articles and the accompanying videos to show you why you should build a hoop house and the best way to approach your new construction project.  

Our Greenhouse Experts are Here For You 

Meet Nick and Julian. Together they have seen and heard ALL the questions when it comes to building one of these. Together with our amazing customer support we are available 7 days a week to answer your questions.

Nick is the designer of our line of Bootstrap Farmer All Metal Hoop House Kits. When he was farming full time he grew loads of tomatoes and cucumbers in the multiple hoop house style greenhouses on his farm.

Julian is our resident hoop house technical specialist and all around great builder. He uses his high tunnel as a propagation house to get a jump on the spring and as a place to overwinter fragile plants. 

The Top 5 Reasons Why We Love Hoop Houses

1. Simplicity of Hoop House Construction

The central dome structure of a hoop house is simple and pretty easy to construct. When building a hoop house greenhouse from a kit they can be likened to putting together giant building blocks. Most require a limited number of basic tools and truly minimal construction experience.

Hoop houses can be built by just about anyone. The build process is essentially a limited number of steps that are repeated for each hoop that goes up and gets connected to the others. We have helped people from all walks of life be able to plan and have the confidence to build one. 

It is a large structure, for some people it may be the largest thing they have ever built. It can seem a little daunting when you first read through the instructions. Just keep in mind, it is a series of simple steps that you will master as you go along. Because hoop houses are not precision builds being a half an inch off here or there will not sink you. 

As you go along attaching ground posts, hoops, ridge poles, hip boards and baseboards, the structure becomes more sturdy and better lined up. By the time you put the greenhouse plastic on you will have a hoop house that can serve your farm for years to come.  

2. Adaptability of a Hoop House Structure 

Depending on  your needs and the needs of your farm, a well built hoop house style greenhouse:

• Can be used to grow a wide variety of crops.
• Can be used in all manner of climates, elevations, and weather events.
• Can be used with a WIDE variety of growing methods; hydroponics, dutch buckets, raised beds, grow bags, directly in ground with soil.
• Can be used as shelters for working, planting seedlings and processing harvested crops. 
• Can be modified with add-ons like shade cloth to create beneficial microclimates. 
• Can be used to protect livestock in inclement weather. 

Hoop houses are widely adaptable structures. Here at Bootstrap Farmer we hear all the inventive ways that people are planning to use their new addition. From propagating fragile perennials to livestock protection to equipment storage, people are using hoop houses for all kinds of work.

A Note on NRCS High Tunnel Grants for Funding Your Hoop House Build.

If you are planning to use an NRCS grant though there will be restrictions on how you can grow as well as what you are allowed to do. Crops grown in an NRCS funded tunnel must be grown in ground or in raised beds no more than 12” high. NRCS grants do not allow for hoop house high tunnels to be used for livestock housing or equipment storage. This is because the program is funded by money earmarked for soil conservation and improvement. Be sure to read through the information we have gathered here on How to Apply for an NRCS High Tunnel Grant.

3. Opportunities for Different Crops Grown in a Hoop House

There are eight main money making food crops typically grown in high tunnels and hoop houses. They are, the mainly vegetative; leafy greens, lettuce, microgreens, and herbs. As well as the fruiting vine crops; tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants. 

Beyond these there are a few other tried and true crops that farmers have long been using to get the best return on investment for their hoop house. The growing season extension possibilities make them excellent for growing berries and aggregate fruits. You can also use hoop houses to grow potted ornamentals, succulents and specialty food crops for market. They are great for propagating plants under protection for earlier production.  

Growing flowers in a hoop house

Flower farmers love the ability to get to market early with tulips for Mother’s Day, ranunculus for spring weddings, and bouquets of sweet peas for the first farmer’s market of the year. The additional heat and protection offered by a hoop house can bring your flowers into bloom 6-8 weeks earlier in the Spring and keep them blooming weeks after the first frost in Fall. 

The protection from wind, rain and hail offered by a hoop house also allows farmers in less than ideal conditions to grow more delicate varieties of flowers. Being able to add insect netting to your ventilation and roll up sides will help keep your precious flowers safe from munching grasshoppers and pernicious aphids. Adding shade cloth can protect flowers from wilt and scald in high Summer extending your harvest window. 

Adding some flowering crops to your growing space will help attract, feed and house beneficial insects if you will be leaving the space open sometimes. These flowers can be an added source of income and beauty at your market booth or in your salad mixes. Check out Growing Edible Flowers for more information on edible flowers.

4. Opportunities to Extend the Growing Season in a Hoop House Greenhouse

Greenhouse plastic traps and retains heat raising the temperature inside the hoop house anytime the sun is shining. This means you can plant earlier and harvest later every growing season. Protection from excess precipitation in any form lets you control irrigation. 

Every growing zone comes with its own challenges and accompanying opportunities for every growing season. 

Late frosts in the Spring can damage your transplanted seedlings. Seedlings in a hoop house can have weeks of precious, protected growing time added. This provides you the opportunity to be the first at your farmer’s market to have seasonal produce for sale. 

Heat waves in the Summer can wilt and even kill your crops quickly. Adding shade cloth to your hoop house is easy and provides an extra layer of protection to keep your plants growing well through the hot weather. The addition of simple greenhouse ventilation systems such as circulation fans, shutter exhaust fans and fresh air intake vents can provide even more precise climate control.

Heavy rains in early Fall can bring on problems with downy mildew and other plant pathogens that thrive on excess moisture. Inside a hoop house you can control the amount of water your crops receive at every stage of growth. 

Hail storms can render delicate crops unsalable. Flowers and leafy greens grown in a hoop house under greenhouse plastic are able to grow perfect leaves and petals safe from hail, wind, and heavy rain. Picture perfect crops fetch better prices from high end chefs and discerning florists. 

Growing year round in a hoop house or high tunnel

Even a small DIY hoop house can provide the opportunity to grow crops during all four seasons in milder climates. Having a hoop house style greenhouse as part of your farm essentially creates a whole new growing zone. For example, a crop of lettuce that may need to wait until May to be planted in growing zone 5 can be planted in the hoop house in April, bringing your production capability closer to a zone 7.  

Adding a second layer of greenhouse plastic with a greenhouse air inflation kit will give you an even bigger cushion against the weather conditions outside. Adding a layer of frost cloth over your tender plants inside the hoop house will provide another 5-10 degrees of protection. 

5. Hoop Houses are Easy to Maintain

Hoop houses, particularly those made of all metal, will last a long time with a few easy maintenance tasks.  Keep the greenhouse plastic tight to repel water and snow. Tighten the bolts and screws yearly to keep the structure from shifting. Having a roll of greenhouse repair tape on hand to quickly patch any holes from branches or wayward tools will maintain your plastic in optimum condition. 

A hoop house kit built using lock channel and spring wire can have the greenhouse plastic removed to protect it from heavy snows and high winds. If you will be funding your build with help from an NRCS grant you may be required to remove the greenhouse plastic in the Winter depending on your location. 

It is also easy to add and remove a second layer of plastic or shade cloth to modify your micro climate. A well constructed hoop house style greenhouse will be easy to maintain and last for years. For more detailed information on regular maintenance tasks, check out our article on Maintaining Your Hoop House Greenhouse.

You CAN Build a Hoop House Style Greenhouse on Your Farm.

We are firm believers that just about every farm can benefit from building a greenhouse. Even if the instructions look a little intimidating for a 20’ by 100’ foot all metal kit. Even if you are working with a tight budget and building a DIY hoop house. This is a project you can accomplish with good planning, hard work, and a little help from your friends. 

Much of the work required to build a hoop house kit can be done by one person. There are a few steps, like putting the greenhouse plastic on,  that you will need a few extra pairs of hands to do well. As with any project many hands will make light work. You may be surprised how many people are willing to come help build your new hoop house. It is a fun project and neighbors who have been debating if they want to build one can benefit from getting to be a part of the process.

If you are wondering if you should add construction of a hoop house to your farm’s to do list, remember:

Here at Bootstrap Farmer we are all big fans of hoop house style greenhouses. 

If you can think of trying to grow a crop in one of these, someone here has tried it. If you have questions about other parts of the build process, keep reading this series and check out the Hoop House 101 YouTube playlist here to catch videos of Nick and Julian as they discuss all the ins and outs of shopping, buying, shipping and building. 

To get notified about our latest Hoop House video subscribe to our YouTube.

Did you think of something we haven’t covered? Have questions about a specific crop? Please reach out via email to Contact@BootstrapFarmer.com or 7 days a week on the phones (888) 406-1982.

How to Maintain a Hoop House

Greenhouse Plastic Maintenance 

CHEMICALS AND PLASTIC

• Keep chemical sprays away from the plastic.
• If you need to spray your plants try to limit over spray by using a more directed stream instead of misting.
• Turn off circulation fans while you spray.
• If chemicals do get on the plastic, clean them off with mild soap and lot’s of water ASAP.
• This is particularly important with sulfur and chlorine as both will damage the plastic and high levels may void your plastic warranty.
• If you live near a large farm or vineyard that regularly sprays their crops, you can ask them to let you know so you can rinse off your hoop house afterwards.

SEASONAL CHECKLIST for a Hoop House Greenhouse

• Tighten bolts and screws.
• Oil hinges and moving parts.
• Tighten batten tape and rollup side ropes as needed.
• Tighten any sways in your plastic.
• Keep any drainage trenches and lines clear of debris. Re-dig trenches if necessary, particularly in late fall once the rains start falling.

What to do with your hoop house after weather events.

• Brush off any snow build up during storms.
• During heavy rains check for puddling on your plastic and tighten as needed.
• Clear storm debris from ditches.
• Brush off fallen leaves and branches.
• If hurricane force winds are predicted for your area, remove the plastic to avoid damage to your structure.

Hoop houses are a significant investment for most small farmers, and doing these simple tasks will ensure that you get the most from yours. Although most coverings have a 4-year warranty, well-maintained plastic can last far longer.

WHAT ARE FROST BLANKETS?

Frost blankets are garden covers made of lightweight, 100% polypropylene fabric. Frost blankets are ultra-lightweight, keeping your plants safe from damage. Unlike commonly used alternatives like bed sheets, burlap, or painter's tarps, the fabric allows plants proper airflow. They are also designed to dry quickly and will not become heavy from moisture. They are great to use in early spring to avoid damage from frost as well as during fall planting season to protect crops while they are establishing and not as hardy to the cooler temperatures.

WHEN TO USE A FROST BLANKET

Growers use frost blankets for several different types of applications. They offer opportunities for season extension with minimal infrastructure by:

• Covering late fall crops before frost. 
• Protecting crops from early spring frosts. 
• Jump starting the growth of overwintered cool season annuals. 
• Protecting newly planted seeds from being eaten by birds and increasing germination rates by keeping soil moist. 
• Preventing newly sprouted seedlings in outdoor rows from being devoured by squirrels and other garden pests.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT WEIGHTS OF FROST BLANKETS? 

 Bootstrap Farmer carries 2.1 oz., 2.5 oz., and 4.0 oz. frost blanket. 

2.1 oz.- This lightweight fabric option is perfect for longer-term applications or in areas where only a light frost will hit. Since it is so lightweight, sunlight can still easily penetrate.

2.5 oz.-This mid-weight fabric  option offers a little more protection than the 2.1 oz. fabric but still allows for excellent light transmission.

4.0 oz.- This is a heavier duty fabric option for protection from frost. This material will not let as much light through, so we suggest this is used as a temporary application. A grower can use this fabric weight in conjunction with the 2.5 oz frost blanket for extra protection during a cold snap. This size is less than ideal for long-term application as it does not allow for as much airflow or sun penetration.

How to Install Frost Blankets

Frost blankets can be installed on row crops with low-tunnel hoops or laid directly on the plants you wish to protect. The blanket can be anchored with landscape fabric pins, rocks, or sandbags. When used without hoops, frost blankets are commonly referred to as floating row covers. This is because their light weight allows them to essentially “float” above your plants only resting on the tips of the leaves. 

You will want to install the frost blanket before the frost sets in. When the sun comes out, and all danger of frost has passed, remove the covering and fold and store correctly. It is vital that you remove when the temperature rises above 50 degrees as this will create too much heat for your plants underneath the blanket. If soiled, you can lightly rinse the fabric with cool water and let air dry completely before storing. 

What Is The Best Material To Cover Plants From Frost?

The best material to use for covering plants is polypropylene fabric. It dries more quickly than other materials, is breathable for plants, and is lightweight enough not to cause any damage to delicate crops or plants. It is a favorite amongst growers because it allows light to pass through its fabric that plants need to thrive.

Can You Leave Frost Blankets On During The Day?

Frost blankets can be left on all day if lightweight, allow airflow, and allow light transmission. One trick many growers use is to layer fabrics. They will put down a lightweight frost blanket for daytime use and add a heavier duty frost blanket to ensure protection when the temperature dips after sunset. For cold hardy crops, you will want to be mindful of the advantages that come from cooler temperatures to the crop's flavor. These types of crops may benefit from exposure during the day and coverage after sunset.

Can Shade Cloth Be Used As Frost Cloth?

Shade cloth is not a great option for frost cloth. Often it is a woven netting, which would provide very little protection from wind and cold. Stick with frost blankets made of polypropylene fabric designed to create a barrier that retains heat from the soil around the plants.

Can You Use Plastic To Cover Plants From Frost?

Plastic formed into fabric sheets (polypropylene fabric) is an excellent material for frost protection. Look for frost blankets that resist moisture buildup and allow light to get to the plants easily for best results. You can also use greenhouse plastic to cover plants if you have hoops, but plastic film should not be laid directly on the plants as any water that collects will weigh down the plastic and damage your plants. 

What’s the Best Frost Blanket to Use in Cold Climates?

A heavy-weight frost blanket like a 4.0 oz is best for extra cold climates. Lighter weighted frost blankets can be layered together for more versatility in cooler temperatures. The best frost blanket will be one that provides your plants with a barrier from the cold air that could damage the plant. It is important that the frost blanket is large enough to cover all the way to the ground. This helps retain the heat from the soil which will keep your plants on average 5-10 degrees warmer.

Do I Need to Remove the Frost Blanket in Snowy Weather?

Yes, frost blankets should be removed from your garden beds if you are expecting a heavy snow fall or at the very least shake the snow off of them if heavy accumulation occurs. Having row hoops will also help to prevent damage to plants. Excess snow will weigh the blanket down and cause it to fall on to your plants, squishing delicate seedlings and breaking stems on larger plants. 

THE HOOP HOUSE DESIGN

The strength and interior air volume in hoop houses are made possible to the millennia-old building shape, the arch. Pipes equally bent into roughly half circles are very strong, especially when properly connected. Arches evenly distribute weight and live loads (wind) to the ground posts and, in turn, the ground.

The types of materials used to construct the hoops vary wildly depending on the accessibility of certain materials, the budget, as well as the farm's individual needs.

HOOP HOUSE MATERIALS

PVC Pipes

• STRENGTH significantly reduced by UV exposure
• Heavy and sustained winds can push a PVC structure to failure.
• Compounded expenses later in the cost and time to rebuild the structure

*Bootstrap Farmer recognizes the need to start on a strict budget but encourages anyone considering this route to do their research.

Electrical Metallic Tubing

• The thin walls of this material do not give you a lot of length to work with.
• EMT makes great individual bed covers for microclimates
• Best for smaller projects

Bootstrap Farmer All Metal Pre-bent Kits

•  Stronger gauge metal is available in these kits.
•  Double and triple galvanizing, zinc coating, and proprietary coating from top manufacturers *Up to 5X the corrosion resistance than cheaper metals.

DIY HOOPS

For DIY'ers, you can bend your own hoops to save on shipping costs by sourcing poles locally when buying kits like these. The trade-off is the sweat equity of easily bending your hoops with a hoop bender. The other trade-off is that these hoops are made by hand and can be slightly un-uniform. While this doesn't hurt the strength, it is enough to bother the perfectionists among us.

Poles bent from 1 ⅜ top rail found in hardware store chain length fencing sections often are 17-18 gauge thickness.

Some wholesale-type suppliers offer lengths of 21'. While this technically is ok, remember that this is out of spec of the intended hoop house applications.

BENDING HOOPS WITH A HOOP BENDER

The hoop benders are made to bend specific radiuses, and when bending the required amount of 10' poles (10' 6" with swag), they make the most accurate hoops for those instructions.

In other words, both 10' and 12' benders use 2 10' poles, but the radius of the pole bender makes completely different width structures, with the wider house being a bit shorter.

Similarly, a 12' pole bender isn't intended to "bend differently" to make a 14' hoop. Often the best tool is the one that was specifically designed to do a specific job.

When comparing hoops in kits, it is also important to note the spacing of hoops. Some budget manufacturing has spacing up to 6' rather than the much stronger 4' spacing—an important difference in snow and wind loads.

Check out the video Bending Poles for Hoop Houses for a tutorial.

SECURING THE BENDER TO YOUR WORKSPACE

Step One will be to securely mount your bender to a surface that allows you space to work around it. We recommend starting by mounting the bender to a board as a "mounting plate." After this, you can attach the mounted bender horizontally or vertically to any sturdy surface, such as a workbench or existing fence.

Keep in mind if you go vertical, you will need sufficient space, around 4 1/2 feet, beneath to pull the hoop downward.

The benders available on our website come with mounting hardware. You need to supply the board for your mounting plate and the space to hang it.

MARKING AND BENDING HOOPS

Step Two in this process involves marking each of your hoops at the point you will begin your bend. Using a permanent marker and a tape measure, mark each section of top rail 9 inches from the swagged/male end. Because these ends will be placed into your ground posts, you want that bottom 9 inches to be straight.

Step Three begins the actual bending. Insert your top rail, or EMT, into the bender until the marked end sticks out beyond the bender. Bend by pulling down on the long end of the pole.

Continue bending by inserting the pole an additional 18 inches and pulling downward until you reach the opposite end. Once you get close to the end, you will use the extender pole included with your bender to provide leverage to complete the bend. The bend is complete when around 9 inches remain on the non swagged/female end.

Note: We highly recommend you make one complete hoop first before bending the rest of your poles to ensure you have the process working correctly.

ATTACHING YOUR HOOPS TOGETHER

Step four in this process is to attach the two bent top rail poles together to create your complete arch.

Insert the swagged/male end of one of the poles into the open/female end of another. Use a self-tapping screw about an inch towards the female side of the seam where the two join to connect them. This step is a little easier if you drill a guide hole first.

Make sure that your screw is on the side of the hoop and not the top to avoid snagging your greenhouse plastic.

NOTES ON HOOP INSTALLATION

When placing the hoops into the correct width ground posts, the hoops should be about 12" wider than the ground posts. After placing one side of the hoop in one side of the ground posts, a partner pushes in and sets the hoop in the other ground post.

This "spring-loading" of the hoops give them their strength and stiffens up the arch. Don't push the hoops in as far as you can. You will adjust the height before installing the hoop to ground post bolts.

When all hoops are installed, it is very common for them to need initial leveling and plumbing. At this point, it is best to have the keenest eye among you on a step ladder with eyes level with the top of the hoop.

"Eyeballing" the hoops all the way down by pushing hoops in or side to side will get you close but do not expect them to be perfect. They all straighten up when you begin installing the hip boards, baseboards, and ridge poles.

The following statement is true for the entire build but mostly comes into play at this stage. Because all farms, skill levels, and tolerances are variable, hoop houses are designed to have some leeway in them.

These are not Swiss watches that are precise engineering marvels. Hoop houses are rarely perfectly square, plumb, or level. Do the very best you can, occasionally re-do mistakes when your gut tells you.

Once the plastic is on tight, all slight miscalculations go away. This isn't permission to cut corners or skip steps. It's more of a "you'll be ok if you are off a tad." Learning to take farming tasks in stride now will do wonders for your agricultural career long term.

FRAMING ENDWALLS FOR A GREENHOUSE

End walls seem to give folks anxiety. From a structural standpoint, the hoop house itself isn't reliant on the end walls to stay up. However, having contact points to secure greenhouse plastic is very important. The other equally important consideration when building endwalls is door placement and making the structure work for you.

WHY WE ENCOURAGE ENDWALLS ON A GREENHOUSE

We always discourage open-ended designs that cannot be closed in, i.e., caterpillar tunnels. This design creates a large parasail during a storm. Storm damage is most common when the wind can get on the inside of the structure. 

ADDING DOORS AND GABLE VENTS TO ENDWALLS

So what are your door options? You can make a solid end wall, a single door, double doors, or gable vents for greenhouse kits. It all depends on preference and your farm's needs.

Gable vents help to release excess hot air from your greenhouse. This allows for better circulation. If you are facing extreme heat, this is a great addition.

When deciding whether to install a single or double door design, consider whether or not the single door width can accommodate harvest carts and wheelbarrows. During harvest, would the extra-large doorway be helpful?

HOW TO BUILD AN ENDWALL FOR GREENHOUSE KITS

DIY kits are often framed like the walls in a house. A horizontal base plate supports vertical studs while studs offer support and serve as an anchor point for door and vent frames. Vertical studs are attached by various means to the top, often with carriage bolts.

Metal kits offer the same framework but with metal poles, square tubing, and crossbars. For metal kits, this may mean less flexibility in full customization. However, you can often save time and worry with pre-designed door kits.

Check out this video on building endwalls for a step by step tutorial.

ATTACHING PLASTIC TO ENDWALLS

Remember that you are inserting spring wire into the lock channel around the base, door, door frame, vent frames, and any uprights for end wall plastic. The more you can secure, the better.

Begin securing the plastic across the base, including horizontal door and door frame pieces at the bottom.

You will then secure the plastic to the top with a second layer of wiggle wire in the end wall hoop lock channels that you first secured the plastic in when you began installing the plastic. When working the wrinkles out, think about working from a central point and out diagonally.

Next, work your way up the door, door frame, and uprights to the top of the hoop. It works best to work from the bottom to the top from the middle out on one side and then the other. Securing these individual pieces after the perimeter makes the end wall skin very tight, and that is precisely what you want. Lastly, cut between the door and the door frame between lock channels to allow the doors to open. Watch this video for more a visual.

CUSTOMIZING YOUR END WALLS TO MEET YOUR NEEDS

It should be noted that just because a kit may have limitations does not mean that you are stuck solely with a basic end wall. You still have options to build your own add-ons for your own needs.

Suppose your needs change over time. That's okay. Add a door later. Seal up vents in the off-season. You can amend endwalls without tearing up the existing hoop house. All farms go through changes. Your ability to think through solutions creatively is what makes the challenges of farming so rewarding.

WHAT ARE CATERPILLAR TUNNELS?

Caterpillar Tunnels are relatively inexpensive, temporary hoop houses that resemble the bug they are named for. 'Cat Tunnels' are designed to be structurally simple and low cost. For this reason, they lack many of the components that add to the rigidity of a structure, including endwalls.

UPGRADING A CATERPILLAR TUNNEL

Many of the same upgrades available for hoop houses can be modified to work for a caterpillar tunnel. Endwalls, Hip & baseboards, roll-up sides can be added along with purlins to replace the strap style bracing. With these adjustments, a caterpillar tunnel can be modified to increase durability and allow for a more permanent structure.

WHY WE PREFER HOOP HOUSES OVER CATERPILLAR TUNNELS

Many farmers start with a caterpillar tunnel as a low-cost startup but later find they need more durability. The design of the caterpillar tunnel was made with the lowest cost in mind enabling it to be a quick return on the investment option.

Check out this article that goes into further depth about the differences between the two greenhouse structures.

UPGRADING A HOOP HOUSE

Options like roll-up sides, insect netting, shade cloth, inflated double layers of plastic, ventilation all help improve the growing environment for the plants and the comfort of the people working in the hoop house.

Deciding to invest in these options should be based on production planning, not an "I don't know what to do, so I'll buy it all" shotgun effect.

Upgrades need to come with the understanding that a hoop house is not typically an environmentally-controlled structure with no heaters or powered cooling units. It is not meant to be a four-season greenhouse.

COST V. BENEFIT OF HOOP HOUSE UPGRADES

A great example of this is deciding to add or not add a double-layer inflation kit. When new hoop house buyers often inquire about whether or not to add a double layer, the answer is variable.

When deciding if this upgrade is suitable for your farm, consider the R-value ( a material's resistance to thermal conduction) of a double-layer system. A double layer of greenhouse plastic hovers around 1.6, so the holding power of heat isn't the silver bullet some farmers are hoping for.

Next, it's important to determine if the cost of the second sheet of greenhouse plastic, a blower, the electricity needed to run the blower, the initial labor to install the double-layer and blower, plus the eventual reskinning of the greenhouse film is going to yield the returns needed to justify the cost.

Ask yourself if you will add passive heat like solar barrels, adding active heaters that you are feeding gas or wood, growing cold-sensitive plants like vine crops, and growing zone considerations like the length of available daylight.

If you live in a temperate grow zone and plan to grow cold-loving brassicas, you may not even need a second layer. Whereas the double poly upgrade would be great for those dealing with coastal winds or those wanting to get a head start on starts for spring.

If you plan on growing tomatoes in an unheated hoop house in Minnesota year-round, you will be very disappointed when the temp gets consistently below 65°, no matter if you have a second layer or not. It is all part of the checks and balances you need to think about when planning your farm.

OTHER HOOP HOUSE AND CATERPILLAR TUNNEL UPGRADES

Does your area have grasshoppers? You might benefit from insect netting. Insect netting has come a long way. New technology in insect netting has made it possible to deter insects without the use of harsh chemicals. Insect netting is easy to use, breathable, and can even be used to contain pollinators or beneficial insects that you wish to keep near your plants. Also check out Insect Netting for Pest Protection.

Are you in the southernmost states and get too much heat in the summer season? Roll-up sides and gable vents will keep your warm workers and your plants a little cooler. Roll-up sides are easy to install and use.

Understanding what a hoop house is designed to do, seasonal extension will make it easier to pick the best options for your farm. Remember, upgrades can be added later on to pin down your specific growing needs.

Which is What?

Hip boards run the length of the hoop house and are most often found at 4' off the ground parallel to the baseboards.

Baseboards run level down along the ground at the base of the structure.

Ridge poles are the pipes that run along the center underside of the top of the hoops parallel with the baseboards.

Purlins are additional structural supports run parallel to the ridge poles above the hip board.

Check out the video!

RIDGE POLES FOR HOOP HOUSES

Ridge poles are installed after all of your hoops have been inserted into the ground posts. They are the central roofline used to connect the hoops to each other, and proper installation is the best way to ensure that all hoops are at the same height.

Because the ridge poles are such an integral part of your hoop house's overall strength, it is important that they be strong. It is best to use a 16 gauge steel pole like those included in our premium kits.

For DIY kits, we recommend that you purchase 10 ft 1-3/8" top rail for bows & ridgepoles, which are typically sold at 17 gauge. Stronger is better if you can find it.

HIP BOARDS AND BASEBOARDS FOR HOOP HOUSES

Hip boards and Baseboards connect the hoops and keep them even along the length of the structure. When straightening out the hoops, start with the base and then do the hip. They also act as a foundation to secure lock channels and spring wire, which is the best way to secure greenhouse plastic.

Most kits that call for wood have you source the lumber locally, so add that cost into your budget. Baseboards tend to be 2x6's. Hip boards are sometimes 1x6's or 1x8's. 

Remember, it's ok to over-build. Just never cut corners or under-build.

Metal hip and baseboard options do come with premium kits. These metal braces offer multiple connection points on the hoops to help wind bracing. They also will outlast wood long-term. And as far as strength, more often than not, will also be superior to wood. Check out this article about building materials for building a DIY hoop house kit.

When comparing kits, note the gauge and profile of the metal bracing. This is another place where there is no "industry standard." There are so many options out there. This may be a place manufacturers use to lower the cost of a kit with lighter gauge steel. And remember, the lower the number, the thicker the metal.

PLUMB YOUR HOOP HOUSE

Fully plumb the 1st hoop on one side of the house. Your ground posts will already be set as best for rib spacing. As you run the baseboards, they will begin to be connected, adding to the overall strength of the hoop house. Next, measure the same rib spacing (4' for Bootstrap Farmer structures) from the same hoop where you began the ridge poles.

Begin by attaching the baseboards followed by the hip boards. Remember to start the hip boards from the same side you started the baseboards on.

By working down, you ensure proper and even rib spacing. By working the base and then the hip boards, starting on the same side and using the same width spacing as you did with the ridge poles, you will see the shape of the hoop house really line up as it should.

PURLINS FOR HOOP HOUSES

Purlins are an add-on available for many kits that increase your completed hoop house's overall strength and wind/snow resistance. Purlins are installed above the hip board 1/2 or 3/4 of the way up each side of the hoop house parallel to the ridge poles. Because they add multiple connection points between each hoop, they solidify the structure. Adding purlins is particularly helpful in areas that experience heavy snow loads or high gusting winds. Purlins are a necessity on any hoop houses over 20' in width.

Once your baseboards, hip boards, and ridge poles are plumb and connected, you can add purlins if you have chosen to include them in your build. Purlins are attached using the same equipment and process as ridge pole installation. Be sure to keep the purlins level as you tighten each cross connector. For more information on building a hoop house check out Prequel to Building Your First Hoop House.

WHAT ARE GROUND POSTS?

Ground Posts are the poles that go into the ground to anchor the hoop house structure into the ground. Each pole works both independently as an anchor point and together as a connected structure. Ground posts are just slightly larger than the hoop pipes, and ¼" bolts are used to secure the hoops to the ground posts. The bolts must be on the inside of the plastic and run parallel and lengthwise to the structure. This protects the plastic from possible damage.

Watch the video!

GROUND POSTS ARE AN INTEGRAL PART OF HOOP HOUSE STRENGTH.

The strength and interior air volume in hoop houses are made possible to the millennia-old building shape, the arch. Pipes equally bent into roughly half circles are very strong, especially when properly connected. Arches evenly distribute weight and live loads (wind) to the ground posts and in turn the ground. The types of materials used to construct the hoops vary wildly depending on the accessibility of certain materials, the budget, as well as the farm's individual needs

HOW DO I INSTALL MY GROUND POSTS?

Ground posts are installed using a ground post driver. This is included in our hoop house kit. Ground Post Drivers are the tool to evenly pound in the posts without deforming the lip of the ground post. This is a specialty piece of equipment that is not found in hardware stores. The most common pole and what we provide is 4' with 2' in the ground and 2' out of the ground.

HOOP CONSIDERATIONS WHEN BUILDING A HOOP HOUSE

When placing your hoops into the correct width ground posts the hoops should be about 12" wider than the ground posts. As you place one side in one side of the ground posts a partner pushes in and sets the hoop in the other ground post. This spring loading of the hoops give them their strength and stiffen up the arch. Don't push the hoops in as far as you can, you will adjust the height before you install the hoop to ground post bolts.

When all of the hoops are installed it is very common for them to need initial leveling and plumbing. At this point it is best to have the keenest eye among you on a step ladder with eyes level with the top of the hoop. "Eyeballing" the hoops all the way down by pushing hoops in or side to side will get you close but do not expect them to be perfect. They all straighten up when you begin installing the hip boards, baseboards, and ridge poles for the hoop house.

The hoop benders are made to bend certain radiuses, and when bending the required amount of 10' poles (10' 6" with swag), they make the most accurate hoops for those instructions. In other words, both 10' and 12' benders both use 2 10' poles, but the radius of the pole bender makes completely different width structures with the wider house being a bit shorter.

Similarly a 12' pole bender isn't intended to "bend differently" to make a 14' hoop. Often the best tool is the one that was specifically designed to do a specific job.

Bending Your Own Hoops

The following statement is true for the entire build but mostly comes into play at this stage. Because all farms, skill levels, and tolerances are variable, hoop houses are designed to have some play in them. These are not swiss watches that are precise engineering marvels.

Hoop houses are rarely perfectly square, plumb or level. Do the very best you can, occasionally re-do mistakes when your gut tells you. Once the plastic is on tight all small miscalculations go away. This isn't permission to cut corners or skip steps. It's more of an "you'll be ok if you are off a tad". Learning to take farming tasks in stride now will do wonders for your agricultural career long term.

When comparing hoops in kits, it is also important to note the spacing of hoops. Some budget manufacturing have spacing up to 6' rather than the much stronger 4' spacing. An important difference when it comes to snow and wind loads.

MATERIAL OPTIONS FOR HOOPS

PVC PIPES/ Plastic

•  STRENGTH greatly reduced by UV exposure 
• Heavy and sustained winds can push a PVC hoop house structure to failure. 
• Compounded expenses later in the cost and time to rebuild the structure

*Bootstrap Farmer recognizes the need to start on a strict budget, but encourages anyone considering this route to do their research. Check out What Materials Do You Need for a DIY Hoop House Build Project here.

 EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing) 

• The thin walls of this material do not give you a lot of length to work with 
• EMT makes great individual bed covers for microclimates 
• Best for smaller projects

 BOOTSTRAP FARMER KITS ALL METAL PRE-BENT

• Stronger gauge metal available in these kits 
• Double and triple galvanizing, zinc coating, and proprietary coating from top manufacturers *Up to 5X the corrosion resistance than cheaper metal

DIY HOOPS

For DIY'ers, you can bend your own hoops with kits that require you to locally source the wood and metal to save on shipping costs by sourcing poles locally. The trade off is sweat equity of easily bending your own hoops with a hoop bender. The other trade off is these hoops are made by hand and can be slightly un-uniform. While this doesn't hurt the strength it is enough to bother the perfectionists among us. Poles bent from 1 ⅜ top rail found in hardware store chain length fencing sections often are 17-18 gauge thickness.

Some wholesale type hoop house suppliers offer lengths of 21'. While this technically is ok, remember that this is out of spec of the intended in hoop house applications.

WHERE CAN I BUILD MY HOOP HOUSE?

Hoop Houses can be built over existing beds, uneven plots, and hills. Read Ideal Greenhouse or DIY Hoop House Orientation for guidance on what direction to face the end walls of your hoop house structure. All of these on farm interpretations can be done as long as you figure in extra plastic for width/length. This is the beauty of using ground posts to anchor your structure. They allow you to flow over the land rather than trying to drop a flat bottomed structure on uneven ground. Be sure to account for any in ground obstacles that may impede ground posts depth, or make installation difficult by way of having to work on too tall of a pole. Again the most common pole is 4' with 2' in the ground and 2' out of the ground.

The comfort level you have in making modifications are part of a long line of decisions you will face running your own business. Kit instructions from any manufacturer act as a guide.

Guides work great, if everything is equal. Crops, climate, terrain, skill level of the farmer, and even physical considerations such as the farmer's height can be challenges requiring modification. These modifications, or "going out of spec" help to make the structure your own.

DOUBLE LAYER POLY INFLATION KITS

Choosing a high-quality plastic pays in volumes throughout the growing season. Although it is a greater investment, it can be an asset that can last many seasons and pay for itself many times over through the increases in production. Quality plastic provides many more benefits than merely covering a structure. Opting for the cheaper plastic may seem tempting, but in our opinion, a high-quality plastic will pay greater dividends in comparison.

The best plastic to use for a greenhouse is one that offers more benefits than solely coverage.  A well-rounded greenhouse plastic should provide light diffusion, anti-viral/pest properties, anti-dust technology, anti-fog/mist additives, and a warranty.  Bootstrap Farmer sells one of the best 6 mil polyethylene films available on the the market. 

LIGHT DIFFUSION PROPERTIES FOR GREENHOUSE FILM - WHAT IS IT AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?

Light diffusion helps to considerably improve the growing environment for plants.  Photosynthesis and transmission are enhanced for plants by using the right plastic film, which is especially important for trellised plants. This plastic helps with light diffusion by only allowing select wavelengths through its 5 layer technology.  Plants are able to take what they need and are less likely to suffer from overexposure with this protection. For further sun protection, shade cloths diffuse light for even more protection for your plants.

DO GREENHOUSE FILMS HAVE ANTI-VIRUS PROPERTIES?

Using quality greenhouse plastic can help to block pest problems by reducing the amount of damage caused by insects, viral diseases, blackening of rose petals, and proliferation of diseases.  Additives in the film that block UV rays also help to reduce entry of pests, giving an extra benefit.

HOW DO YOU KEEP THE GREENHOUSE PLASTIC CLEAN?

Greenhouse plastic often builds up with dust throughout the season.  With additives this dust accumulation can be greatly reduced. Choosing a plastic with a multiple layer extrusion, permits the inclusion of the dust.  The top layer of this 5 layer technology includes a reducing additive that allows for a smooth surface that helps to repel dust and dirt. 

BEST WAY TO MAINTAIN GREENHOUSE PLASTIC FOR WARRANTY

Greenhouse film sold through Bootstrap Farmer comes with a 4-year warranty.  In order to ensure that this warranty is valid, manufacturers include set instructions and policies. Store your greenhouse plastic horizontally and away from direct sunlight. Be sure to save a sample size of the greenhouse plastic (2 sq. ft) with the product identification tag. This will help if warranty claims need to be made. Avoid direct contact with non-polyethylene plastics or PVC adhesives as this will void your warranty and cause degradation of the film. 

When getting started on your greenhouse structure, treat any wooden parts with non-oil based fumigant. Use aluminum slats instead of PVC. Before setting the plastic, paint all surfaces that come into contact with the plastic with a white acrylic paint. After setting the plastic on the greenhouse structure, paint thin strips (20 cm) using a white acrylic-based paint directly on the film surface at points of contact between the film and the structure.

Attaching the greenhouse to the structure can be tricky.  It is recommended to start the roll at the top of the gable and unroll it to the length of the structure. Begin this process early morning for cooler temperatures.  Stretch the film to size and return to tighten as temperatures increase in the day. This will ensure a good fit.  Be sure to install the roof and side curtains in the same work window, end-walls can come last.

Ongoing maintenance will include repair of any holes or tears and tightening the plastic between seasons.  It is important to use the correct greenhouse repair tape in order to maintain the warranty.

The use of pesticides and chemical sprays can break down the plastic also voiding the warranty. Avoid contact with the film if ever using a chemical spray. Lastly, shade cloth contact can be damaging to the greenhouse film.  Instead of placing it directly on the film, suspend it between high posts directly over the structure.

HOW TO COVER A GREENHOUSE OR TUNNEL WITH PLASTIC

A few guidelines that should be followed when attaching greenhouse plastic to a structure:

1. Structures with a width up to 26'- use width of the span plus 1 meter

2. Structures with a width over 26'- use width of span plus 1.5 meters

3. With tunnel structures use width of the span plus 1.5 meters

4. The length of the greenhouse plastic should be at least 5 meters greater than the length of the structure

5.  Calculating curtains- width plus 50-70 cm (for attachment) and the full length of the structure

The size of your greenhouse film isn't necessarily determined by just the length and width.  You must account for the total length of the pipes you are using to complete a hoop, and also your endwalls. 

How to measure for greenhouse film

Start with the width.

Throw a rope over the greenhouse, take the end of the rope to the ground.  Have a friend mark the rope at the other side ground level. 

Then, stretch the rope straight and measure to the mark.  This will account for the arch's radius accurately.

Add 4' to the actual width for safety and/or roll-up sidewalls. 

Getting the total length by measuring the height (x2) + structure length:

Here are details on how to measure the size of the shade cloth you may need:

For shade cloth, measure from hip board to hip board & add 2' extra for each the length and width.

These are the charts that we use for processing our greenhouse kits.  Note the difference in sizes between the 1st layer and 2nd layer (optional).

Shop our selection of DIY greenhouse kits, plastic film and shade cloth at our shop. On our product page for plastic film, you can see a complete chart of recommended sizes for hoop houses according to the width and length of your structure. 

More Hoop House Planning & Calculators:

The beautiful thing about modern greenhouse and high tunnel technology is that your operation no longer has to stop or slow down during the long, cold winter months. Even outdoor crops can benefit from some of the same season extending techniques used to grow inside high tunnels. 

Along with having a proper high tunnel winter growing setup in place before winter comes knocking, it's also crucial to have a planting schedule laid out so you can have the most successful winter harvest possible.

Having the right tools on hand before the first frost touches your field or garden is the best way to ensure that you can keep healthy crops growing well into the cold. 

Getting a Greenhouse Ready for Winter

Preparing your greenhouse for winter by following a few simple tips will keep your structure solid, your plants growing into the colder weather and ensure you are ready to take advantage of sunny days.

• Wash the exterior and interior walls of your greenhouse with mild dish soap and water. Removing dust and accumulated water spots will allow your plants to get the most from the weaker winter sun. 
• Tighten your greenhouse plastic and patch any small holes with quality greenhouse repair tape. Preventing wind from entering will not only help your greenhouse retain heat it will also help protect your structure from damage during storms.
• Oil hinges and tighten any bolts and screws that have wiggled loose. Keeping your hardware tight will prevent your structure from shifting in high winds. 
• Protect your plants from rodent damage by checking for holes around doors and baseboards. Adding rodent repellent or traps near possible entry points will help ensure the unwanted visitors don’t decide to take advantage of the cozy environment you have built for your plants. 
• Take the time to collect, wash and dry any equipment that will be stored in the greenhouse over the winter. Dirty pots and muddy shovels can harbor plant diseases that will survive and thrive in the warmer, humid environment. 
• Check your drainage trenches and any gutters for debris before the rains start. Pooling water from poor drainage is easier to prevent than to remove in the middle of a storm.
• Keep a rope long enough to go over the greenhouse or a long handled squeegee on hand to help remove snow build up. Watch this video for a tutorial.

If you plan to grow food throughout the winter in your greenhouse or hoop house, taking time to ensure that you have the proper equipment on hand and a planting schedule in place is invaluable. 

Winter Growing Tips

• Plan small succession plantings of winter harvest crops like kale, bok choy, carrots, turnips and other root vegetables to stagger your harvest throughout the coldest months.
• Know the likely frost dates for your area and keep an eye out for unseasonably cold nights. 
• Have your supplies and plan ready to go for exceptionally cold nights, this can be as simple as ensuring that you have fuel for your heater and electrical access for fans set up ahead of time.  
• Layer plant protection within your greenhouse for the best chance of survival. This means having frost blankets available for more tender crops within the greenhouse.
• Add a thick layer of mulch or dry straw to over wintered crops like garlic, onions and asparagus to keep them protected until spring. 
• Consider having a few supplemental lights on hand for seedlings and young plants. This can prevent your crops from getting overly leggy if you have a long stretch of overcast days. 

Growing through the winter is possible and rewarding. There is nothing better than taking advantage of a rare sunny day in the winter to tend your plants in the warmth of a well maintained greenhouse. Fresh herbs and tender greens brighten up winter soups and spirits when cold, dark days and long nights keep us inside more than we’d like. 

CREATE A WINTER GARDEN PLANTING SCHEDULE

The key to good high tunnel winter growing is to give your plants a head start. Ideally, they should be close to maturity by the time the darkest period of the year begins. During this time, in large swaths of the US, days drop to less than ten hours in length. In order to survive, plants need to be hardy enough to weather the limited sunlight and frigid temperatures. Of course, your high tunnel structure will go a long way toward helping them survive and thrive as well. 

Closely following an incremental high tunnel planting schedule will also give you a successful series of crops that lasts through the depths of winter. Staggering your sowings every three to four weeks will cause crops to reach maturity at different periods and allow you to transplant out a new crop each time one is harvested, giving you a steady supply of produce until spring arrives. This will also give you the flexibility to handle potential crop failures and determine the best seeding dates for different crops, which can be applied to future seasons for even greater success. 

Keep track of your plantings

This can be as simple as a page in a notebook or a spreadsheet on the computer. Keep notes on your crops so you can fine tune your planting schedule as the season progresses. This will also help you to make modifications and improvements year over year. 

The most important facts to keep track of are: Planting date, time to transplant size, and days to maturity for your crops. Keeping track of average temperatures and days of sunlight will also help you to make estimates of how the weather is affecting your plants' days to maturity. 

WHICH PLANTS DO BEST IN WINTER?

There are two main categories of winter crops: winter-harvest and overwintered. Overwintered crops are usually planted out in the open and protected by low tunnels, so they remain in the open until they're ready to be harvested in early spring. Winter-harvest crops generally live their entire lives within high tunnels and are harvested throughout winter, so they will thrive the best with the incremental planting schedule described above.

Winter is different in the northern, southern, and western parts of the United States, and that has an effect on which plants will perform best in your winter greenhouse.

The Persephone period is a term used to describe the shortest days of winter for any region but mostly for the north where winter days drop below 10 hours of light. The north has the coldest temperatures and shortest day lengths, while the south maintains warmer temperatures and day lengths over ten hours for much longer. The west tends to have more moderate temperatures throughout the year, especially on the Pacific coastline.

All these factors mean that crops must be planted at different times in summer and fall to reach the ideal level of maturity before winter. For continual harvesting of short grow time crops like tatsoi and lettuce, this is less of a factor but the days of available light will be a factor in days to maturity. 

What should you grow in the winter?

Below we have some guidelines for ideal crops to grow in the fall and winter depending on your region. Every micro climate is different and the further north your latitude the more you may need to shift planting dates earlier. If you have an indoor space for starting seedlings and potting up to achieve larger root growth, you can give mid-season transplants a leg up before planting them out.  

If you plan to start indoors and transplant out during colder weather, it is doubly important to follow best practices for hardening off your transplants. If you need to brush up on your skills for starting and transplanting seedlings we have a number of helpful articles on our How to Grow Seedlings blog. 

BEST WINTER CROPS FOR THE NORTH

• June: broccoli, kale, cauliflower and cabbage
• July:, beets, carrots, parsnips and turnips.
• August: long day onions, lettuce, spinach, chicory and endive, mustard greens, arugula, scallions and radishes
• September: mache, garlic

BEST WINTER CROPS FOR THE SOUTH

Many of the crops listed under August and September can be planted on an ongoing basis throughout the fall and early into winter. 

• June: peppers and tomatoes
• July: beans, broccoli, collards, peas, eggplant and summer squash
• August: beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips, parsley, cabbage, kale and potatoes
• September: cilantro, mustard greens, tatsoi or bok choi, miner’s lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata), garlic and short day onions
• October/November: onions, chicory, endive

BEST WINTER CROPS FOR THE WEST

Many of the crops listed under July, August and September can be planted on an ongoing basis throughout the fall and early into winter for the more southern regions. 

• June: cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes
• July: kale, broccoli, cauliflower
• August: lettuce, swiss chard, beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips, parsley, cabbage and overwintered sweet onions
• September: cilantro, tatsoi or bok choi, spinach,  
• October: kale, mustard greens, garlic, chicory, endive

COOL SEASON ANNUALS FOR SPRING FLOWERS

There are a number of flowers that can be planted in the fall to provide early spring blooms. Many of these flowers are also edible so be sure and check out our edible flower resources for more on these. Depending on your zone these cool season annuals should be planted between September and October or started indoors in the late winter and planted out in very early spring. Below are a few of our favorite cool season annuals to plant in the fall for early spring blooms. 

• Bachelor buttons 
• Calendula
• Abutilon
• Snapdragons
• Violas
• Wee Willie Dianthus
• Stock

PREPARING FOR HIGH TUNNEL GREENHOUSE GROWING IN WINTER

If you haven't constructed your high tunnel yet, it would be a good idea to look into the Seasonal High Tunnel Initiative from the Natural Resources Conservation Service, a subset of the USDA. The program may be able to provide financial assistance to your operation to help recoup some of the cost of constructing a high tunnel on your property. The NRCS provides this assistance because high tunnels can help address issues in plant and soil quality, reduce the need for pesticides and limit the amount of water and energy consumption needed to produce a great harvest — all things that will lead to more environmentally friendly, sustainable growing. 

Late summer or early fall is a great time to plan your build. This way you will have time to get the build finished before the harsher fall weather kicks in. 

Layering Protection Inside a Hoop House

Once you have your high tunnel constructed, there are a few other steps you should take to keep your plants cozy and protected. If you live in a northern area with severe temperature drops, adding extra cover of frost blanket over your rows of plants will help protect them from frost. You can either use low tunnels or simply lay the covering directly over them, depending on the plant. This cover can be removed on warmer days to let the plants breathe and ensure they aren't getting too warm, which could inhibit their growth and encourage diseases. 

This strategy can also be used on outdoor crops to keep cool season crops alive through light frosts and give you a jump start on early spring crops. For more on using frost blankets in the greenhouse or the garden check out this article on How and When to Use Frost Blankets. 

It's also important to be mindful of how much you water your plants. It can be easy to overwater crops during wintertime, but underwatering is a concern as well. Using a moisture meter can be helpful in determining how much your plants will need. 

Double layer inflation kits

A double layer inflation kit is built by adding a second layer of plastic to the top of your high tunnel, generally from hip board to hip board, and installing an inflation fan. The benefits of an inflation kit are many including:

• Increased temperatures inside the greenhouse
• Reduced condensation
• Increased wind and snow protection
• Extension of growing in the shoulder seasons

 For more information on double layer inflation kits you can hop over to read the linked article and watch the video. 

GET ALL THE SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR HIGH TUNNEL WINTER GROWING AT BOOTSTRAP FARMER

Bootstrap Farmer has durable greenhouse kits to expand your growing season. Our high tunnel greenhouses are sturdy enough to weather even tough winter environments to keep your crops thriving and your business booming. 

The main difference between a high tunnel (sometimes referred to as a hoop house) and a greenhouse is that a greenhouse is a permanent structure with some type of climate control. In contrast, hoop houses are only meant as a tool for season extension and are semi-permanent. You will often find swamp cooler-type wet walls, ventilation, and sometimes heating units in greenhouses.

A greenhouse will have a cement slab foundation or semi-permanent flooring like compacted gravel. Depending on the type of greenhouse and the location of the greenhouse, some growers may use this structure year-round. The type of covering used on a greenhouse will typically be rated for more wear and tear than your typical poly cover. Greenhouses will most often have rigid polycarbonate sheeting, while hoop houses are typically covered in plastic film.

HOW ARE HIGH TUNNELS AND GREENHOUSES USED DIFFERENTLY?

Traditionally, greenhouses fall more in the commercial retail sphere since they're spacious and anchored to the spot by some form of foundation. They are used for plant propagation before crops are moved outdoors and for growing more tender crops to full adult size. Commercial growers commonly use greenhouses to propagate and plant up house plants, tropical plants, and succulents.  

On the other hand, high tunnels are more often used for growing crops in-ground. However, with the right size high tunnel greenhouse kit, seed propagation, potting and repotting can all be done comfortably and successfully. 

Both greenhouse styles are used to extend the growing season by protecting crops and other plants from low temperatures and the elements. With the addition of ventilation and shade cloth, both structures can also be used to protect plants from excessive heat and sun-scald. 

HIGH TUNNEL VS. GREENHOUSE 

The most significant difference between the structure of a greenhouse and a high tunnel is that a greenhouse is permanently (or semi-permanently) anchored to the ground by a concrete foundation or footers. A high tunnel, or hoop house, consists of a series of hoops attached to ground posts driven into the ground with a ground post driver and a sledgehammer. Although this is a labor-intensive process, it can be deconstructed and moved to a new location if needed. Before you place your high tunnel, read our article on Ideal Greenhouse Location and Orientation. 

Finally, greenhouses usually have permanent utility hookups for ventilation, heating, and lighting. Whether or not you can hook up utilities at the site will be a huge consideration as they will require extra cost and permitting. High tunnels may include some of these elements but generally not all. Hoop houses simply act as a line of defense between crops and the outside world. If the added climate control components are absent, often growers will rely on extension cords to run a space heater for short periods to get crops through a cold snap. 

What Kind of Plastic Do You Use for a Greenhouse?

Greenhouses will generally have harder forms of glazing for their wall structure, like glass or polycarbonate panels. They can be covered with plastic film, although most greenhouses will rely on the thicker woven poly if not using hard sides. 

For a high tunnel or hoop house, the best compromise between price and durability comes with 6 mil greenhouse plastic as it is treated to be UV resistant. Be sure the plastic you are buying is intended for use in direct sunlight and has this treatment. Regular plastic sheeting, such as the type used by painters to protect carpets, is not designed for long-term outdoor use. Check out How to Attach Plastic Sheeting to a Hoop House for a deeper look into film attachment and the best attributes to look for when sourcing greenhouse plastic.

BENEFITS OF HIGH TUNNELS

While a high tunnel greenhouse is not generally as sturdy as a traditional hard-glazed greenhouse, it still offers a variety of unique benefits. Check out Why Should I Build a Hoop House for a more thorough understanding of hoop houses and how they help with season extension.

Top 5 Benefits of High Tunnels

1. High tunnels allow ventilation without the need for a dedicated system thanks to their open-ended doors and the film used to cover them, which can be easily rolled up using a sidewall ventilation hand crank to allow even more airflow.
2. High tunnel greenhouses are less expensive to construct and operate.
3. High tunnels can accommodate in-ground growing, making them ideal for quick rotations of seasonal crops.
4. High tunnels can be used to protect seedlings from before they are moved into outdoor rows allowing you to get a significant head start on the growing season.
5. High tunnels give protection from hail, wind, frost, excessive precipitation, and pest pressure.

BENEFITS OF GREENHOUSES

Greenhouse structures protect from extreme elements and give the plants a more consistent growing environment to thrive in year-round. They are often equipped with climate control and have greater insulation values resulting in a higher holding capacity for heat. These features add to the overall cost of running the structure.

Top 5 Greenhouse Benefits

1. Greenhouses can be used year-round if equipped with heating and cooling equipment.
2. Greenhouses offer more protection from the elements since they are completely enclosed and made of polycarbonate panels or glass.
3. Greenhouses have a solid foundation or flooring to accommodate growing systems, benches, and other infrastructure.
4. Greenhouses allow for more plant options, i.e., tropicals or more finicky plant varieties, as the variances in the environment are minimal.
5. Greenhouses allow for efficient pest management as the space is more securely enclosed.

Do I need a high tunnel or a greenhouse?

The decision on whether to invest in a greenhouse or a high tunnel/hoop house will depend on the scope of use the structure will need to perform. If your operation does not require a permanent structure with the ability to serve your needs year round, don’t invest in it. That money is better spent elsewhere. 

If you plan to try a year round operation in an area with dramatic temperature swings, forcing a hoop house to serve that need will not be cost-effective and will only be an up-hill battle. Make your decision based on both your current and future needs. 

Another option to explore is the difference between high tunnels and caterpillar tunnels. We have written High Tunnel VS Caterpillar Tunnel: Which One is Right for You?, examining the key differences between the two structures.

How big do you want your farm to grow?

Another consideration is your level of experience with gardening or farming and how large your operation is going to be. High tunnels are great for beginners, offering a lower price point for bootstrappers who are just getting started or who want to test a new kind of growing. Larger ones can even work well for seasonal commercial operations such as plant retail nurseries, hydroponic systems, and large-scale year-round crop production. If you need greater functionality, high tunnels can also be combined with traditional greenhouse design elements such as gable vents, heating and wet walls to create the ultimate nurturing environment for your plants. 

How can you get help paying for a high tunnel or greenhouse?

There are grants available that farmers and gardeners can use to fund their hoop houses. The High Tunnel Initiative from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) is a grant that focuses on equipping farms with hoop houses, but it comes with some conditions. The program provides financial assistance to farmers who invest in high tunnel systems to extend their growing seasons, enrich their soil and limit energy consumption and the use of pesticides. 

It's a great way to get a new project off the ground! Keep in mind that this grant program requires you to plant crops directly in the ground because the funding is in part for soil improvement. It does allow for raised beds of no more than 12 inches in height. Greenhouses do not qualify for this type of funding through the USDA EQUIP program but other forms of infrastructure may be covered. 

Before you begin building your high tunnel or greenhouse

The process of building either of these structures requires some amount of foundational work before you build. Even a high tunnel that will be used for growing crops in the ground will need to have the ground leveled and possible drainage issues considered before construction begins. 

A greenhouse will require more preplanning, particularly if you will be laying a foundation or pouring a concrete floor. With current supply chain issues and construction company backlogs, if you will be needing to rent equipment or pour a concrete slab, be sure to check on local availability before you schedule your build. 

We have a number of resources to help you plan for your site preparation. You can use silage tarp to eradicate weeds long before you build to ease the process. Take a look at this short video from our greenhouse experts to get you heading in the right direction. Hoop House Site Prep | HOOP HOUSE 101 Ep5

Once you have decided which structure is going to work for your farm, both in terms of budget and growing needs, it is a good idea to do some further reading. Our Prequel to Building a Hoop House is a great place to start. If you have particular questions and learn better from watching than from reading you can pursue our entire YouTube playlist on Hoop House 101 here. It is designed for you to be able to watch as a series in order, or to jump around to the parts of the process that are of interest to you.

One of the first things that we recommend you do first is decide where you will be placing your structure. There are many factors to consider including wind direction, shade trees, existing structures and access to utility lines. To help you make these decisions we have written this article on Ideal Greenhouse Location and Orientation. 

Choosing a High Tunnel or a Greenhouse

Whichever option you choose, we recommend doing your research and planning ahead with farm expansion in mind. Greenhouses and hoop houses can both serve fundamental roles in a larger scale market garden operation or farm. Both can also have a place at the homestead or in the home garden. If you want to see how the bootstrappers that we know are using their high tunnels and hoop houses be sure to follow us on Instagram where we share photos and videos of our favorite farmers. 

Hoop houses offer many of the benefits while being far more budget friendly. Once the house is built the only real ongoing expense will be replacing the poly film. If well maintained, 6 mil UV resistant greenhouse plastic film will last far beyond the 4 year warranty.   

Greenhouses add a lot of expenses that will need to be made up for every year in power,  added infrastructure taxes, and the ongoing maintenance that comes with them. Panels on greenhouses have an expiration date, so that is a large expense that will come into play around 5-8 years into its use, especially if you need to hire a contractor to install them. If the crops you intend on growing will easily make up for the accrued cost, this investment might be justified for your operation.

If you need engineering approval for NRCS or otherwise, you will need to contact a structural engineer.  Many can be found on Upwork, local to your area.

Calculating snow/wind load for hoop house:

A few things to note while using this calculator:

This calculator estimates the load local to your area. If you need certified calculations for your structure, you'll need to work with your own engineer.  This calculator is only meant to serve as a reference, not an official measurement of snow load local to a given location. 

This calculator uses the rough calculation of the slope of a 10,12 and 20 foot high tunnel. It uses your location to find the ground snow load as a baseline.

Most snow load problems can be avoided by using 4 foot spacing between hoops and keeping the plastic tight.  When plastic is allowed to sag, it can accumulate rain and snow.  Water weighs 8.34 pounds per gallon, which can add up quickly over a large structure.

Here is the link to download the calculator:

Snow Load Calculator (.xls)

More Hoop House Planning & Calculators:  

NRCS Planning Guide - Plastic Sizing Calculator - Selecting the Ideal Location -Upgrading a Caterpillar Tunnel

Take me back to: BSF Guide to Hoop Houses & High Tunnels