As promised, I will show you projects, both big and small, I have completed for my consumer and business clients. Below, is a project I completed for Adams Investment Strategies. I wanted you to know and see how I actually did this so I took photos and created a timeline so you could track with me every step of the way. Also, I added comments above each photo to give you insight about what I was doing or thinking in that particular step or scene of the creation process.

Let’s get started…

Sketch – After going back and forth with the client, this is what we ended up with. They’re an investment counseling firm, and we thought that this would be quite tongue-in-cheek.

Raw Canvas – Gotta start somewhere. Once I figured out the dimensions, I knew what size canvas to use, so I stretched a piece of heavy-weight muslin on the wall of my studio. Just staple it to the drywall, and you’re ready to go. (Be sure and put plastic on the wall first.)

Primed – After I had it stapled properly, I had to prime it – used a great primer from Porter Paints.  AcriPro 100. Interior or exterior. Simply roll it on. Good stuff.

Scene 1 – I sketch out the basic outline of the project – the “side walls”. I know I’m going to be rolling on some paint, so the easiest thing is to tape off the edges. No need to use a full-width roll. I just use some ½” blue tape. Press it down tight before you paint.

Scene 2 – Mix a couple of colors in a tray and roll it on – at the same time, blending as you go.

Scene 3 – Now it’s time for a little perspective. After you determine your vanishing point, you can start to draw in the depth. Tape the edges on this as well, because you are going to be blending the paint again, and it’s difficult to do that with just a Guide Dog to keep your edges crisp. Of course, you also have to know where your light is coming from.

Scene 4 – Paint the background. Again, pour a couple of colors into a tray, and roll away. Tape it off first, to guarantee a crisp edge.

Scene 5 – Finding the center, I take a large compass and draw my circles. To paint nice, crisp edges, and to make sure that the circle is true, I attach my Buegler Striper to a compass, paint the inside and outside of the circle, and then just fill it in.

Scene 6 – I take a small compass and draw the center circle. Then I cheat: I take a picture of a dartboard and using my MC 2 projector, I project the dartboard image onto the canvas and mark the “pies-shaped” sections.  I use a snap line from the center to make sure the lines are even and straight, then, using ¼” blue tape, tape them off.

Scene 7 – Using my large compass, I draw the inner circle, then paint the pie shapes.

Scene  8 – Now it’s time to paint the board colors. I mix some Mixol tints with some base paint in a small cup, mix it up real good, and voila! We have red and green. 

Scene 9 – Now to paint the wire frame. Using the Buegler Striper, paint the lines for wire frame that you need. For the straight lines, us your Guide Dog, or at the very least, a Mahl Sick.

Scene 10 – Time to add a little shadow. Using a nice stiff brush, paint your shadows. I used a Mahl Stick on this, because I had to paint over colors that weren’t yet dry.

Scene 11 – Using the projector again, I sketch in the darts, using watercolor pencils, so I can erase the lines more easily. I paint in the base coats.

Scene 12 – Using the projector once more, I project the lettering (which I printed from the computer), trace it with the watercolor pencils, and then paint them in. Of course, I make sure it’s level first, and then I tape off the bottom.

Scene 13 – Using the photo as a reference, I paint in the details of the darts, remembering where my light source is.

Scene 14 – I use my compass again, and lightly draw guidelines for my lettering. This time the lettering is done all freehand. Sucks, I know. But sometimes you just gotta cowboy-up. Also, paint in the shadows on the darts. Again, remember the light source. Notice the Post- note. I used a real one for reference for the painted one.

Scene 15 – Finish the note. I actually wrote the note on a real Post-It note to see how it would fit, then used that one as a reference. Hey – ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Scene 16 – Using the vanishing point again, I line up the lower portion, tape it off and paint it in. I also paint in the shadows for the depth, again noting my light source.

Scene 17 – Something was off. Visually the balance didn’t work. Ahh. Throw in a missed dart. Now it looks better.

Installed – Cut it down, paste it up, trim it out. And another one bites the dust. Notice how I allowed for the light switch. BTW, the client was thrilled. That’s what makes a project worthwhile. Oh, and a check.

You know what I am going to tell you now, right?

Yep…Now, Go Paint Something!

Michael Cooper

What’s the going hourly rate for murals? Is it better to price it by the square foot? Is it much different than faux painting? Do I price the project separate from the supplies?

You really shouldn’t be pricing ANY decorative-type painting per square foot. Murals especially.

Now, you could give someone a range based on square footage, but in the end, it simply boils down to how long it’s going to take you to paint it. Figure out how much you want to make per hour/day/week etc., and price it accordingly.  Just give the client a price for the project. Period.

Don’t say something like, “…plus material, plus meals, plus equipment…”, or especially, “I charge by the day.” Just give them a price. That way they’re not nickel-and-dimed to death, and they’re not hanging over you making sure you’re putting in your full “day”.

And trying to figure in material? Realistically take a look at how much you spend on material on a project. I’ll bet you that most of the time you hardly spend anything! Why? Because you use stuff left over from 3 projects ago! You collect supplies! It’s rare that you have to spend a lot on supplies for one particular job. If you have to, say, buy a projector, it’s something that you’ll use for hundreds of projects.

My thoughts: figure out how much you want to make, and charge accordingly. The supplies will take care of themselves.

My rant is done. Now Go Paint Something!

Michael

Hi Mike,

I am looking to do a mural on the side of an enclosed utility trailer. It’s already painted white. Not sure if it’s metal or fiberglass.

I am looking for a recommendation of what kind of paint you sell that would work best, and how to best prepare the surface? We’d like the mural to last, but as a small non-profit, we’re also looking for an affordable option.

Thanks,
Rosemary Jones
“life is a workshop”

Answer:

Rosemary,

Thanks so much for writing. Hmmm…”It’s already painted white.” Do you mean that the metal or fiberglas is inherently white, or that the surface has already actually been painted?

Regardless, here’s what I would do. I would make sure that the surface was clean and solid, then paint the trailer with a good oil-based primer, maybe Xim or Kilz. I would paint the mural with regular oil-based house paint. It would be very cost effective, and should hold quite well. In fact, you could probably go to your local paint store and buy some of their “mistake” paint. Usually something like $5 a gallon.

To get the colors you want, you have a couple of options: buy enough primary and secondary colors to mix what you need, or, preferably, get a set of Mixol colorants. That way, you would only have to mix what you need, and tint it to the color that you need, rather than mix paint together to get the right color. It’s such a waste! And make sure you have some decent brushes. That will make all the difference in the world.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

Now…Go Paint Something!

Michael Cooper

Mike, I am curious how you get such a straight consistent line even using the Mahl stick. Practice and experience probably? Are you using a liner brush? If so which one? Is a Guide Dog the same thing as a Mahl Stick?

Answer:

A Guide Dog is different from a Mahl Stick, as you can easily paint long, continuous straight lines. A Mahl Stick is great for short lines, or for painting over wet areas. The Guide Dog lays flat on the wall, has a handle to hold it and a sharp edge to guide your brush, but the edges are raised so as not to let paint seep underneath, much like an inking triangle.

Also, I use a fairly stiff brush. That way the width of the lines are very consistent. I have some special signature brushes that I really like to use, but I think I’ve already exceeded the limit on product promotions. But trust me - anyone can do it, if you have the right tools.

Thanks and Keep Your Questions Coming!

Now…Go Paint Something!
Michael

My name is Joe and I live in Southern California. I’m helping to restore a small catholic church in this area and and have just finished re-painting the exterior shrine to “Our Lady of Guadalupe”. It’s a large concrete and plaster statue with many coats of paint.

I’ve just used plain old out of the tube Liquitex artist’s acrylics and  was wondering if there is a better clear finish for exterior wear and UV protection than standard Liquitex clear gloss. The statue is in a semi-covered area but does get a few hours of direct sunlight every day and also lot’s of dirt and dust from a busy nearby street. Any info you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Answer:

Joe,

Great question here is what I would do:

Liquitex is a great acrylic. Long lasting, lightfastness, etc. Wouldn’t hurt to have a little help. Use Golden’s MSA Hard Varnish as a topcoat. Great protection - easily cleaned.

Thanks! Now…Go Paint Something!
Michael

This question is in regards to Mixol tints. Is there a more detailed description and how to use this product somewhere on your site or on the internet. Do you buy a base, and then add the tint? If so, how much base to tint, etc. For a cement wall, would the base be just an acrylic exterior white wall paint?

Answer:

First of all, I think a white base works perfectly. Makes the colors really pop. As far as Mixol is concerned, remember, it’s a paste/tint. It’s not paint. You only add as much as you need to get the desired color, usually not more than about 10% of the paint. I usually just work with 2 and 4 ounce cups, sometimes 8 ounce, and just need to add a few drops to get the color I need, sometimes even a big squirt. Mix it up, and you’re good to go. Be sure and throw a lid on your cups, and mark them for the area of which you are painting (sweater – dark, face – base, tree – dark bark, etc.) That way if you need to touch up, you’ve got the exact color!

Mixol tints work with all kinds of paints. If want to just get basic house paint colors in gallons (white, black, red, green, yellow, red, brown, etc) then you can just mix whatever colors you need from those and the tints. If you want to work with artists’ acrylics, get some Golden Acrylics. Great stuff, fabulous colors, wonderful lightfastness qualities, etc. Will last forever.

Thanks for your questions and keep ‘em coming! Now…Go Paint Something!
Michael

Should the design be projected onto pouncing paper adhered to a wall, or projected on paper first and then put on a wall?

Answer:

If I understand your question correctly, you’re asking if you should project onto paper where you want to paint the object, or project somewhere else, like your home or studio, and then bring it to the job site.

I’m thinking that if you can project it off-site, that would be better, because otherwise you have to leave the projector in place while you’re drawing/painting, and it has to stay there until you’re basically finished. If you project off-site, then you can theoretically set-up a number of different elements that you can work on at the same time.

Let’s say you have to paint 6 people on a wall. If you project them one at a time directly on the wall, it will take you forever. If you project them off-site, and then pounce them, you can work on all of them at the same time. Prime one, and while it’s drying, out a base coat on another.

Thanks and keep ‘em coming!
Michael

Hi Mickey and Mike,

I hope all is well with you both-you always said if I needed some help to ask, I’m asking!  I was asked to salvage and patch up the artwork my brother did at a restaurant. I think that I can just clean-up and sand down the mail and eagle because the wood is pretty solid and then repaint where needed and seal it, Is that right or is there a better way of doing it?

I also wanted to know if there is any way to salvage the postage stamp-it is painted onto concrete and as you can see the paint has totally come off in chunks but is still attached in certain areas. They put a protective frame around it that breathes a little but condensation still builds up.  Should it be left alone? and if yes, is there anything better than the frame to keep it from getting worse?

Thanks for any help you can give me. I will keep in touch!
Heather

Answer:

Heather,

Great to hear from you!

Well dear, you’ve got a mess on your hands. Let’s start with the wood. The paint definitely needs to come off.  Sanding it will take forever, but it might go faster by using an electric belt sander. Or you could strip it with chemicals. (they make green stuff now, so it wouldn’t be toxic). Either way, once it’s clean, put a good primer on it, then you could paint it with acrylic paint. You should be fine.

As far as the concrete goes, I would take a bunch of pictures, then strip the wall, and start over. If you can really get down to bare concrete, then go with silicate paints, and you will never have to worry about peeling or fading. If you can’t do that, then get off as much as you can, prime it with a good exterior primer, then have at it with acrylics. Either artists’ paint, like Liquitex or Golden. Or simply use a good exterior house paint, like Porter’s AcriShield. That’s the best you can do.

Good luck! Now…Go Paint Something!

Michael Cooper

For a cement wall that is 25′ high by 40′ wide, would it be best to put the projector on top of a pick up truck as opposed to a stand to trace off design?

Answer:

Do NOT put the projector on top of a pick-up truck! If you can barely afford one projector, you’re certainly not going to be able to afford a second one, when the first one falls off of the truck!

Use a stand for stability. At the very least, use a sturdy ladder.  In fact, they now make the stands on wheels, to give you more maneuverability. If the design is detailed, you might just have to simply draw it! Sketch it to scale first, then draw it on the wall.

By the way, if you’re going to project, then project images, like people, animals, structures, pictures, etc. Do NOT project drawings! Your pencil line becomes 3” thick on the wall, so it’s hard to stay accurate. That’s why you want to re-draw your sketch directly on the wall.

Thanks for your questions and keep them coming!

Now….Go Paint Something!
Michael

Is it best to project a small drawing directly onto a wall at night, or would it be better to project onto the pouncing paper?

Answer:

A projector works great outside if the area is completely dark. A Super Prism will work outside only if it is pitch black. An MC250 would work better, being that it uses halogen bulbs instead of incandescent.

I don’t know what your design consists of, but I would guess that interior projecting/pouncing would be easier that trying to project on an exterior building at night. This opinion is based solely on the info that I have at hand. Then again, an MC-250 might be your best bet, if you don’t have to back up very far. The reason is, the MC250 works better in semi-darkness, while the Super Prism needs almost complete darkness.

It also depends upon what you’re projecting. If it’s people, then generally you can get close enough to the wall outside to make it work. If you’ve got the facility, I would highly recommend just projecting it onto pounding paper, and take the paper outside to transfer it. You can do that it the daytime, when it would be much easier to paint it.

Thanks for your questions…keep them coming!
Michael