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On genius, Rosso Piceno, and turkey's happiness

2013-12-06T11:20:00.002+00:00

Genius: an exceptionally intelligent person or one with exceptional skill in a particular area of activity.

If we agree with the definition of genius given by the Oxford Dictionary then Natalino Crognaletti, the driving force behind Fattoria San Lorenzo, is definitely a genius.

He has no particular secrets to craft his unique wines, but lot of very personal and sometimes extreme ideas. So extreme that every time I spend few days with him I always leave with the same doubt: either I know much less about wine than I think, or he is gloriously messing me around telling me bizarre stories....

Biodynamic ante-litteram as this is how they always did it since his great grandfather started growing grapes: take a walk in the vineyard with Natalino and you'll be amazed by the incredible amount of ladybirds, butterflies and bees “working” with him. And if you compare with the desolate “death valley” landscape of the neighboring chemical-sprayed vineyards, the difference is striking.
The farm is also self-sufficient and pretty much everything they need is home grown or produced (they basically buy only flour, sugar and coffee).

It's difficult for me to pick a favourite from the vast range of wines Natalino produces, but the Rosso Piceno “di Gino” is consistently one of the best reds he makes, and possibly one of the best value for money I ever found.

A blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese in a 60:40 ratio mainly aged in steel vats (only 10% of the wine sees oak, just to soften a bit the natural acidity of the two grapes and to add a extra layer of complexity), this wine is rich, deep, funky, complex, ripe but never overpowering. It's also full of black cherries, red fruit, spices, liquorice and tobacco. And just in case you were wondering, it is age-worthy and at the same time has that sort of please-give-me-another-sip drinking feel that I know you like.

Anything else you need to know about it? No.

So, get it now! You'll make your turkey happy this Christmas...

if you want to buy it from Sheridans Cheesemongers, just email me clicking here

On wines and names and lost identities (and on a little big red called Rosso di Monteraponi)

2013-11-18T22:41:00.001+00:00

It is an interesting contradiction that Tuscany, the region that in the collective imaginary more represent the traditional Italian wine, is the first region guilty of selling its soul to the standardisation of taste, with the indiscriminate use of “international” grapes to create wines to appeal the “international” palate. Few high quality peaks, more often mundane wines lacking in character, always overpriced.

Banning the use in the Chianti blend of white grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia – traditionally used to soften the sometimes edgy Sangiovese – in favor of Merlot, Syrah and Co. was the last act of the regional globalization.

So now, the Rosso di Monteraponi, one of most truly traditional Chiantis cannot be called Chianti anymore.
Another interesting contradiction.

Rosso di Monteraponi and his brother Chianti Classico
(check it out too!)

Made on the hills of Radda in Chianti by the young Michele Braganti, this wine is a blend of organically grown Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino (the Chianti Triad of Grapes…) with a dash of Trebbiano and Malvasia.
It is also as naturally made as possible: spontaneous fermentation without added yeasts, no oak, no filtration. Sometimes less is better…

It’s full of red berried fruit, with hints of minerals, and with an enticing floral character due to the use of the white grapes. The palate is jucy, moderately tannic, fresh and the degree of “yumminness” is dagerously high.

Use it copiously with your steak, with roast beef, grilled lamb. It will work also with pasta dishes with tomato and meat sauce, or with semi hard cheeses and charcuterie. And considering the fast approaching festive season, it would a good option for your turkey or your glazed ham.
In fact, the Rosso di Monteraponi is an incredibly versatile wine.

Just a word of warning. It can be addictive.

if you want to buy it from Sheridans Cheesemongers, just click here

The best wine ever (and that's a big statement...)

2011-11-15T23:40:00.003+00:00

Friends in excess of happiness sometimes are more intense and difficult to handle than friends in a depressive or miserable mood.
But friends in excess of happiness can also surprise you in some unexpected ways.
And if the happy friend in a celebratory mood has access to a well stocked cellar, things can get very interesting.

That's how I came across a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Pucelles" 2004 Domaine Leflaive. Difficult to find words to describe it: it was broad, intense, massive, but at the same time mineral, fresh, elegant. The palate had direction and definition, with a toasty, nutty creaminess perfectly balanced by a citrussy acidity. It had everything and its opposite, and it all made sense. Glorious.
Every sip and every sniff was showing a new face, a new nuance. It even managed to make the lobster we were going to eat - and it was a good lobster - redundant. No big deal as lobster is also good cold...

There are lot of beautiful red wines around, cheap, expensive and anything in between. Cheap and lovely in white wines is less common, but when you cross path with a great white wine, you can reach some peaks that you wouldn't imagine. And there's no red wine that can compete.

Domaine Leflaive (not to be confused with Olivier Leflaive) produces produces probably the best white wines in Burgundy, and that's as much as I will say as you can find loads of stuff about them if you do a quick search on internet.
It's not a cheap wine; I suppose if you can find some it will be probably on the €150-180 mark per bottle, probably even more. But trust me, it is worth every penny.

Charles, thanks for sharing (even if it sounds like the end of an AA meeting)

Salute e saluti

Enrico

Ciro Picariello

2011-11-09T01:44:00.003+00:00

I've never been so impressed by so many wines from a single producer. Actually, I like all their wines...
I heard about this small producer a while ago, I tried to visit them during a recent trip to Campania. I got lost so many times that even the GPS gave up at the end.
I decided to meet them at the last Vinitaly in Verona. Much easier....

During my two days there, I found myself going back to their stand over and over again with the excuse of tasting them one more time, you know, just to be sure. I was doing it for the smile they were putting on my face.
They were good, genuine and refreshing - for the soul and the palate - after dozens of dull samples tasted elsewhere...

This is what wine is all about.

A very simple wine making technique: only indigenous yeasts used, SO2 reduced to the absolute minimum, long fermentation that allows the wine to go completely dry with no residual sugar and long ageing on the fine lees, no filtration or fining. And of course, great grapes from very old vines.

Ciro Picariello’s vineyards are located part in Summonte (at 650 meters above sea level) and part in Montefredane (500 meters above sea level) in the Fiano di Avellino DOCG area. The combination of very old vines (80 years old on average), high altitude and rich volcanic soil gives wines with incredible minerality, a pronounced flintiness and a smokey character, very clean and with no heaviness.

When young, like in the Irpinia Fiano, they show the peach flavours typical of the Fiano grape, but ageing (oh yeah, if they can age…) they turn into a rich, complex palate where almonds, citrus and herbs are perfectly supported by the fresh acidity. Try the Fiano di Avellino 2006 if you don’t believe me…

The almost Alsatian Greco di Tufo has the characteristic spiced, fruity, luminous palate with a fresh minerality similar to the Fianos (and not easy to find in Greco wines).

On the red front, the Campania Rosso is an unusual field-blend of Aglianico, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso (grapes are picked and fermented together): fresh, crunchy and vinous is the best wines for charcuterie you could ever imagine.

The Aglianico “Zi Filicella” would be a Taurasi if not for the only steel ageing. The tannic-acidic punch of the high altitude Aglianico is tamed and balanced by a rich, intense fruit. A wine great to drink now but with a great ageing potential.

All available in Sheridans Wine Bar & Shop in Galway.

Give me a shout if you need more info.

Salute e saluti

ef